JP2809232B2 - Double-sided suede-like fabric - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a double-sided brushed fabric using ultrafine fibers.

(Prior Art) A fabric using ultrafine fibers has a soft hand and is used for high-grade clothing and the like. In particular, a material obtained by raising this material has a suede-like hand and has a wide field of application. However,
It is difficult to raise a woven fabric using a filament yarn.For example, a 1/2 twill woven fabric raised by a normal method has a sufficient raised effect because only one of the warp or weft is raised and the pile density is not increased. It is hard to get. (See FIG. 6.) For this reason, as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1-104856, there is a method of raising the number of floating weft yarns using a satin structure or the like, and raising the weft yarns. When raised, the tear strength of the woven fabric is significantly reduced, and if a large fineness yarn is used to prevent this, the weight per unit area becomes heavy, resulting in a woven fabric with poor drapability and easy pile removal. on the other hand,
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-75635 discloses a fabric in which an ultrafine fiber layer and a normal fiber layer are formed in a multilayer shape.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, if the both sides of the woven fabric described in JP-A-60-75635 are further brushed in pursuit of a swelling effect and a brushing effect, the strength is also remarkably reduced, and it is used for external clothing. Is difficult to use. Further, if the thickness of the woven fabric is increased in order to prevent this, the hand becomes hard and the effect of using the ultrafine fibers is reduced.

The present invention has been made to solve the above problem, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a double-faced brushed woven fabric having a high brushing effect, yet having a tear strength enough to withstand practical use, and further maintaining the original feeling of ultrafine fibers. It is the purpose.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention provides a front and back layer mainly composed of wefts of ultrafine fibers having a fineness of 0.5 denier or less obtained by dividing a conjugate fiber obtained by bonding a polyamide and a polyester into each component, and A basis weight composed of an integrated structure of three intermediate layers consisting mainly of warps having a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more.
0 g / m ² or less thin woven fabric, wherein the weft is made of shrunk polyamide and polyester, and both sides of the woven fabric have piles of uniform length of 200 to 400 μm cut and raised, The fabric is a double-sided suede-like fabric characterized by having a cover factor of 2500 to 3000 and a tear strength of 0.8 kg or more. After weaving a triple woven fabric using the type conjugate fiber as the weft and a fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more as the warp, the split type conjugate fiber is
Splitting and to denier or less, and allowed density of a cover factor 2500 to 3000 in basis weight 160 g / m ² or less by performing the shrinkage of the polyamide component, fineness lifted weft below the front and back layer 0.5 denier, then the It can be obtained by sanding both sides of a high-density fabric.

The ultrafine fiber used in the present invention is a synthetic polymer having a single-fiber fineness of 0.5 denier or less and having a fiber-forming ability, for example, polyester, nylon 6, nylon such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a copolymer thereof. Polyamide other than polyamide such as 66,
Examples thereof include those made of polyurethane, polyacrylonitrile, vinyl polymer, and the like, but it is preferable to use fibers having a shrinking ability, particularly polyamides, in order to easily achieve high density as described later.

Further, in order to obtain the above-mentioned ultrafine fibers, in addition to directly spinning, using a composite fiber having a cross-sectional shape in which a plurality of components are joined, one of the components is dissolved and removed, or divided into each component. There is a method to generate extra fine fibers
For the purpose of the present invention, the method of dividing the conjugate fiber into each component is most preferable from the viewpoint of easy weaving and high density. An example of such a conjugate fiber is one in which one component is not completely surrounded by the other component in the cross section of a single filament and is joined in the longitudinal direction of the filament, specifically, side-by-side or a repetition thereof, and the radial component and In the present invention, it is preferable to use a polyamide component as a radial component and use polyethylene terephthalate as a component to complement the radial component.

On the other hand, as the fiber used for the warp, various fibers can be used as described above, as long as the single yarn fineness is 1 denier or more. Particularly, when a polyester-based fiber is used, a moderate feeling of tension and tear strength is maintained. It is preferable because it can be performed.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses the above-mentioned ultrafine fibers for the weft and fibers having a single-filament fineness of 1 denier or more for the warp. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a weft cross section of the present woven fabric. A weft (3), which is a fine fiber, is provided on a surface layer (1) and a back layer (2), and an intermediate layer (4).
Has mainly warp yarns (5), which are woven in an integrated single woven structure. As such a structure, specifically, a triple ply, a triple mat, a triple woven satin fabric, etc. are generally used as a basic structure, and a woven fabric of a satin woven fabric is particularly preferable, and 3 to 5 reeds, preferably 4 reeds are used. Are preferred.

The surface layer (1) and the back layer (2) are cut and raised to form raised layers (6A) and (6B), respectively, and the layers are composed of a pile (7) having a uniform length of 200 to 400 μm. I have.

Here, identification of each layer and the pile (7) can be made by observing the weft section of the woven fabric by magnifying it about several tens of times (see FIG. 5), and the length of the pile (7) is apparent. This refers to the thickness of the layer in which the weft yarn is spread and oriented in a random direction. The fact that the pile (7) has a uniform length refers to a state in which the pile (7) is confirmed as a layer as described above, and almost all of the pile (7) is formed in the pile layer except for a slight protrusion of the pile (7). Pile (7) is present. Such a pile structure cannot be obtained with a conventional needle cloth raising machine. That is, in the case of using the needle cloth raising machine, it is difficult to confirm a clear pile layer because the pile length is not uniform, and the pile length is longer than that of the present invention.
In the case of the present invention, with such a pile structure, the weft (3) is severely cut, and the strength of the fabric is significantly reduced. or,
This fabric has a basis weight of 160 g / m ² to maintain a soft feel.
In the following, it is necessary to make the base material thin and the thickness is preferably set to 0.4 mm or less.

On the other hand, the woven fabric has a high density despite the low basis weight, and has a cover factor (CF), Through, the total value in the latitude direction is 2500-3000, preferably 28
00-2900. It is preferable that the densification is performed at least in the weft direction, whereby the weft yarns on the front and back layers are further lifted and the above-mentioned raising is facilitated.

Such a woven fabric has a surface substantially covered with cut fuzz on the front surface (see FIG. 4), and the fuzz density is 450,000 / c.
m ^2, which is an order of magnitude higher than that obtained by simply raising a 1/2 twill fabric.

Furthermore, the present fabric has a tear strength of 0.8 kg or more, and is a low-weight thin woven fabric using the ultrafine fibers as described above. , Its shrinkage treatment would be required.

Also, if the surface of this fabric is water-repellent,
As described in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. H10-150, a remarkable water repellent effect is observed. For example, if a fluorine water repellent is applied to the fabric,
Shows the water pressure 500~700mmH ₂ O of L-1097. On the other hand, since fine voids exist inside the woven fabric due to the action of the ultrafine fibers, the air permeability also exists at 3.0 to 7.0 cc / cm ² / sec (JIS L-1096A).

Next, an example of a method for producing the present fabric will be described. As described above, the split-type conjugate fiber obtained by bonding polyamide and polyester is used for the weft, and the above-described three-layer woven fabric is used, for example, using a polyester fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more as the warp, for example,
A 1/3 double-sided twill fabric is woven at a weft density of 200 to 280 yarns / inch and a warp density of 100 to 120 yarns / inch. Then, the woven fabric is immersed in a polyamide swelling agent such as a benzyl alcohol solution, and then heat-treated, using a method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 37383/1986 and the like to split (fibrillate) the conjugate fiber and to convert the polyamide component. Shrinkage is performed, and shrinks by about 20 to 50%, preferably about 30 to 40% in the weft direction, thereby increasing the density.

Furthermore, this fabric is obtained by sanding both sides of the high-density fabric using a belt sander or the like. Raising treatment by sanding is a suitable method for obtaining the present fabric, and as described above, it is difficult to obtain the present fabric by the needle cloth raising method. For the same reason, it is preferable to note that excessive sanding treatment may cause a decrease in tear strength.

It is needless to say that the fabric of the present invention may be subjected to post-processing, and in addition to the above-described water-repellent treatment, various types such as dyeing, softness, flame retardancy, antibacterial deodorization and the like can be mentioned.

(Example) Example 1 A warp yarn of 30d / 12f false twisted polyester yarn Z600T / M twisted, a weft yarn having a radial nylon component (N) and a complementary polyester component (P) are shown in FIG. The split type composite yarn 50d / 25f matched as shown in Fig. 3 is twisted with S250T / M and has a warp density of 116 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 277 yarns / inch. A twill fabric was woven.

Next, the woven fabric is immersed in a 25% benzyl alcohol solution at room temperature, and then heat-treated at 90 ° C. under moist heat to cause fibrillation of the composite fiber and shrinkage of the woven fabric.
A high-density woven fabric with a yarn / inch, a weft density of 280 yarns / inch, a cover factor of 2900, and a basis weight of 120 g / m ² was obtained. Both sides of such a high-density fabric are belt-type sander devices (made by Meinan,
No. 0) at a running speed of 8 m / min and cut and brushed,
A double-sided brushed fabric was obtained.

The results are shown in Table 1. 4 and 5 show electron micrographs (magnification: 30 times) of the weft cross section (tilt angle: 40 °) and the weft cross section of the woven fabric, respectively.

Comparative Example 1 The double-sided twill woven fabric of Example 1 was immersed in a 25% benzyl alcohol solution at room temperature to perform only fibrillation of the composite fiber, and the warp density was 140 yarns / inch and the weft density was 280 yarns / inch.
A double-fiber napping was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the woven fabric was made of an ultrafine fiber having a cover factor of 2745. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2 A warp density of 115 yarns / inch and a weft density of 75 d / 36f polyester yarn S200T / M warp-twisted warp and composite yarn used in Example 1 S110T / M warp-twisted warp 77
A twill woven fabric is woven at a rate of 1/2 yarn / inch, and fibrilization and shrinkage of the conjugate fiber are performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The warp density is 160 yarns / inch, the weft density is 80 yarns / inch, and the cover factor is 2365. A high-density woven fabric having a basis weight of 120 g / m ² was obtained. The woven fabric was raised on both sides in the same manner as in Example 1. First result
It is shown in the table.

Comparative Example 3 100d / 24f polyester yarn was twisted with Z300T / M as the warp, and the splittable conjugate fiber 100d / 50f used in Example 1 was used as the weft.
Z200T / M twisted and formed into a twin yarn, then S200T / M twisted using a warp density of 125 threads / inch and a weft density of 120 threads /
Weaved 1/4 double sided twill fabric in inches. Next, after a total of 20 front and back brushes were cut and raised using a needle cloth raising machine, Example 1 was performed.
Perform fibrillation and shrinkage of the composite fiber in the same manner as
A high-density woven fabric having a warp density of 184 threads / inch, a weft density of 134 / inch, a cover factor of 3735 and a basis weight of 235 g / m ² was obtained. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Effect of the Invention) According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a brushed woven fabric having a soft, light, voluminous feel and a suede-like napping effect on both front and back surfaces caused by ultrafine fibers, and the woven fabric has a standard tear strength of the outer garment. It has a value of 0.8 kg or more, and the entire front and back surfaces are covered with fine fluff, and it is excellent in feeling, water repellency, heat retention, etc., and furthermore, pile fabric using conventional ultrafine fiber The pile is clearly less missing than the pile.

Therefore, the present invention is suitable as a material for outdoor clothing, and is very useful because it does not require a lining at the time of sewing because it is a brushed product on both sides.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing the weft section of the present fabric, FIG. 2 and FIG.
The figure is an explanatory view showing an example of the weaving structure used in the present fabric and the cross section of the split type conjugate fiber. FIGS. 4 and 5 are electron microscope photographs showing an inclined weft section and a weft section of an example of the present fabric. (Magnification 30
6) and FIG. 6 are electron micrographs (magnification: 30 times) showing the surface state when the conventional plain woven fabric surface is raised, all of which show the fiber shape.

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A front and back layer mainly comprising wefts of ultrafine fibers having a fineness of 0.5 denier or less obtained by dividing a conjugate fiber obtained by bonding a polyamide and a polyester into respective components, and a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more. The basis weight composed of a structure in which three layers of an intermediate layer mainly composed of warps are integrated 16
0 g / m ² or less thin woven fabric, wherein the weft is made of shrunk polyamide and polyester, and both sides of the woven fabric have piles of uniform length of 200 to 400 μm cut and raised, The double-sided suede-like fabric, wherein the fabric is densified to a cover factor of 2500 to 3000 and has a tear strength of 0.8 kg or more. 2. After weaving a triple woven fabric using a splittable conjugate fiber obtained by bonding a polyamide and a polyester as a weft and a fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more as a warp, the split conjugate fiber is 0.5 denier or less. Dividing into ultra-fine fibers and shrinking the polyamide component to increase the density to a cover factor of 2500 to 3000 with a basis weight of 160 g / m ² or less, lift the weft yarns on the front and back layers, and then both sides of the high-density fabric Sanding is performed to obtain a woven fabric having a tear strength of 0.8 kg or more.