JPH11117125A - Thick and thin, different shrinkage, mixed multifilament yarn, knitted or woven fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide polyester thick and thin, differentially shrinkable and filament-mixed multi-filament yarn that has the swelling feel intrinsic to differentially shrinkable and mixed fiber materials, dry surface touch, tension, stiffness intrinsic to the thick and thin material, the woven or knitted fabrics therefrom and the direct spin-draw production process of the multifilament yarn. SOLUTION: This multifilament yarn is thick and thin, differentially shrinkable composed of two kinds polyester filament of thermally different shrinkage in which the boiling water shrinkage of the multifilament yarns is 10-40%, the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress of 80-120 deg.C, and the filament fineness deviation value (U %) of 2%-6%. The thick and thin yarns of differentially shrinkable and filament mixed multi-filaments enables the production of plain, dry-silky hand, woven and/or knitted fabric having both of swelling feel and dry surface touch.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a polyester dry silky material and an economically advantageous method for producing the same. More specifically, it is a dry silky polyester thick and thin shrink-blend multifilament that combines the swelling feeling of the conventional shrink-blend material with the dry surface touch, firmness, and firmness of the chic and thin material. The present invention relates to a knitted fabric and a method for producing the same by a direct spinning and drawing method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester hetero-shrinkage multifilaments have long been known for the purpose of bringing synthetic fibers closer to silk (for example, US Pat. No. 1,190,078).
That is, a so-called different shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament composed of a two component fiber group having different heat shrinkage ratios has a yarn length difference between both components when subjected to heat treatment, giving a sense of swelling. It is based on the principle of natural silk swelling. Initially, it starts with a small difference in heat shrinkage, and gradually progresses to one with a large difference. A polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament having a small difference in shrinkage rate is disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-30620.

A typical prior art having a large difference in heat shrinkage is disclosed in JP-B-53-134946 and JP-A-5-134946.
It is disclosed in JP-A-5-57013. These are characterized in that the low heat shrinkage component is substantially made of polyethylene terephthalate and the high heat shrinkage component is made of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate, and has a high heat shrinkage stress and a large boiling water shrinkage. The comonomer used for the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate used as the high shrinkage component is 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane.

[0004] In recent fashion clothing, this type of different shrinkage mixed multifilament is widely used as a feminine tone silky material. On the other hand, as a casual-like spun silky material, a thick and thin yarn (also referred to as a thick and thin yarn) obtained by stretching an undrawn polyester yarn at around the glass transition temperature at around the natural stretching ratio is conventionally known. In these polyester thick yarns, an undrawn portion and a drawn portion coexist in the length direction of each monofilament constituting the yarn. The polyester thick and thin yarn composed of such a monofilament group has a thick portion in which a relatively large number of undrawn portions gather and a thin portion in which a relatively small number of unstretched portions gather.

[0005] The undrawn portion maintains the thickness of the undrawn yarn and retains the properties of the undrawn yarn, and has a higher heat shrinkability than the drawn portion and a deeper dyeing property. It has properties such as high. Therefore, in the thick and thin yarn, the length and ratio of the undrawn portion of the constituting monofilament and the degree of overlap of the undrawn portion in the multifilament (yarn) are important factors that determine the characteristics of the thick and thin yarn. As shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, A,
As schematically shown in B and C, they are roughly classified into the following three types.

A. "Yarn-dispersed type" As shown in FIG. 1, one unstretched portion is long and the phases are relatively uniform, that is, the thick portion is long, the thickness difference between the thin portion is large, and the thick portion is thin. This is a type in which the portions are clearly separated in the length direction, and the length of the thick portion is as long as about 100 mm or more. The value of the fineness variation value U%, which is an index of the thickness difference of the multifilament, is as large as about 10% or more. In this type, the difference in dyeability between the thick part and the thin part is clear, and the textile obtained therefrom is characterized by a heathered or crisp tone. (For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-11176)
Nos. 0 and 57-199813).

B. “Filament-dispersed type” As shown in FIG. 2, one undrawn portion is short and dispersed at random, and when viewed with a multifilament, the undrawn portion is relatively evenly dispersed. As a result, a thick portion and a thin portion are obtained. This is a type in which the difference between the thick and thin portions is small and the difference between the thick portion and the thin portion is not large. The value of the fineness variation value U%, which is an index of the thickness difference, is as small as less than about 2%. This type is generally characterized by a dark color, high color development, and a solid color due to the presence of an unstretched portion. (For example, see Japanese Patent Publication No. Hei 6-94609)

C. Intermediate type between A and B As shown in FIG. 3, the length of the thick part is about 5 mm to 50 m.
m, and the thickness difference between the thick part and the thin part is relatively small.
The value of the fineness variation value U% is about 2 to 6%. Although the heather tone is suppressed and it is relatively plain, there is a slight change in color tone, and because of the unstretched part, there is a feeling of swelling due to the difference in heat shrinkage and a feeling of dryness due to the difference in thickness. It has a characteristic of span silky tone.

The trend in the fashion world in recent years has been casual, and this type of C is the mainstream. A dry silky tone knitting that combines the fine color change, swelling and dry surface touch with the feminine-like hetero-shrinkage multifilament multifilament, which has the characteristics of both if it is made into a thick thread. The appearance of textiles can be expected. Conventionally, in the production of thick and thin yarns, all types of A, B, and C have been produced through a two-step process of low-speed spinning-drawing. But,
In the era of “yen appreciation” and “price destruction” in recent years, although these are differentiated materials, high cost competitiveness has come to be required. In order to reduce costs, a direct spin drawing method in which a conventional two-step process is continuous is generally known, and the method has already been industrialized for the production of general-purpose yarn.

[0010] As an economical method for producing a melt-spun synthetic fiber, a conventional spinning process and a draw-twisting process have been divided into two stages, and the direct spinning and drawing process (spin draw take-up process) is performed in one stage. ) Has been widely practiced industrially in the production of general clothing yarns. The direct spinning and drawing method of a general yarn is performed by using a drawing machine including a heating type first godet roll, a heating type second godet roll, and a winding machine. At the same time that the undrawn yarn is taken up by the first godet roll, the undrawn yarn is heated to 80 to 100 ° C. and drawn between the second godet roll and the first godet roll using the peripheral speed ratio of the two godet rolls. Then, the drawn yarn is generally subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of 130 to 180 ° C. on a second godet roll, and subsequently wound to form a cheese-like package, which is a general manufacturing process.

As a method for obtaining a type A thick and thin yarn by direct spinning and drawing, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-17610 discloses a method.
And the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-199813. These include a method of starting drawing on a first godet roll in a direct spin drawing method, a method of drawing at a drawing ratio near a natural drawing ratio, and a yarn characterized by a type A heather tone. I can only get it. Furthermore, when trying to make the different shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament into a thick and thin yarn by the known direct spinning and drawing method, the length of the thick part reaches a length of about 150 mm or more, and it no longer leaves the heathered or crisp tone, and it is dyed. Only knitted fabrics in which only abnormal defects were noticeable were obtained.

[0012]

A first object of the present invention is the feminine-like hetero-shrinkable multifilament multifilament, which is formed into the above-mentioned C-type thick and thin yarn to thereby obtain the characteristics of both. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a dry silky tone knitted fabric which has a solid feeling, a swelling feeling and a dry surface touch feeling.

Further, what is demanded from the economical point of post-processing is to make the yarn package large (increase in winding weight). This is because the smaller the winding weight, the more the creel, that is, the number of preparations for the yarn, increases the manpower, and is economically disadvantageous.

At present, since the polyester multi-filament mixed with different shrinkage and the thick multi-filament are manufactured by a two-stage method of spinning and drawing, they are at most 3 kg in a pirn shape. On the other hand, in the cheese-like package of the direct spinning and drawing method, 6 to 12 kg winding is possible.

Accordingly, a second object of the present invention is to provide a dry silky material having a dry touch and a crisp feeling in addition to the features of the conventional silky material, and to provide the same in a large package. In producing such a new silky material and in using it in post-processing steps,
It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a polyester thick / low shrinkage mixed multifilament by an economically advantageous, that is, low cost, direct spin drawing method.

[0016]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, by selecting a special direct spinning and drawing method, a dry silky tone which has not existed in the past can be obtained. The present inventors have found that the emergence of a polyester thick and thin multifilament can be realized, and have completed the present invention. That is, the first invention of the present invention is a thick and thin shrinkage-blended multifilament composed of two types of polyesters having different heat shrinkages, wherein the multifilament has a boiling water shrinkage of 10% to 40%, The extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress is 90% to 120 ° C., and the fineness variation value U%
Is 2% to 6%.

The second invention of the present invention is a knitted woven fabric comprising the multifilament with different thickness and shrinkage. A third invention of the present invention is a direct spin drawing method in which two kinds of polyesters having different heat shrinkage properties are simultaneously melt-spun and then undrawn yarns are continuously drawn without being once wound, and a multifilament is drawn. The stretching region is made into two stages, and the first stage is stretched between the heated first godet roll and the heated second godet roll,
The fineness variation value U% of the multifilament is set to 6% or more, and then the second stage is stretched between the heated second godet roll and the non-heated third godet roll, and the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament is 2% to This is a method for producing a multifilament thick / shrinkage mixed fiber, characterized by being 6%.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described. The present invention relates to a polyester thick / shrinkage mixed multifilament multifilament comprising a low heat shrinkage component and a high heat shrinkage component, a knitted fabric thereof, and a method for producing the same. The first invention of the present invention relates to a multifilament of different thickness and shrinkage mixed fiber. In the thick / shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament of the present invention, the heat shrinkage characteristics, particularly the extreme temperature of the heat shrinkage stress measured by boiling water shrinkage and dry heat, are important requirements. It is necessary that the low heat shrinkage component of the present invention consists essentially of polyethylene terephthalate. The homopolymer polyethylene terephthalate, when formed into fibers, has a boiling water shrinkage of at most 10% or less, and is therefore suitable for a low heat shrinkage component.

The high heat shrinkage component of the present invention has a melting onset temperature (commonly called Tm1) of 2 as measured by a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
It is preferred to be composed of a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having a temperature of 00 ° C. or higher. The copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate is suitable for the high heat shrinkage component because the boiling water shrinkage when formed into fibers is 15% or more depending on the type of the comonomer and the selection of the copolymerization ratio. The Tm1 of the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate of the high heat shrinkage component is preferably 200 ° C. or higher. Polyester multifilaments are often subjected to a heat treatment at about 200 ° C. in a post-processing step. If Tm1 is less than 200 DEG C., the heat treatment causes partial melting, and a desired cloth cannot be obtained. The preferred range of Tm1 is from 215 DEG C. to 250
It is in the range of ° C.

The comonomers used for the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate in the present invention include 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane and 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] sulfone And a comonomer having a relatively bulky structure such as neopentyl glycol is preferred. In addition, an acid component such as isophthalic acid, adipic acid and dodecanoic acid may be copolymerized as a comonomer. The polyester of the low heat shrinkage component and the high heat shrinkage component may be a polyester produced by a known polymerization method, and may contain additives such as a heat stabilizer and a matting agent.

The multifilament of the present invention requires that the boiling water shrinkage be in the range of 10% to 40%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 10%, the swelling of the fabric is insufficient. On the other hand, when the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 40%, the density of the knitted fabric becomes excessive and the texture becomes hard. The preferred range is between 15% and 30%. In the multifilament of the present invention, the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress is 90 ° C. to 12 simultaneously with the boiling water shrinkage.
It must be in the range of 0 ° C. By setting the extreme temperature within this range, it is possible to adjust the swelling and stiffness of the fabric in the post-processing step, particularly the relaxing step. That is, in general, a fabric in which a multifilament is non-twisted or twisted and knitted is stretched under tension in hot water at 90 ° C. to 130 ° C., that is, most of its texture is determined in a so-called relaxation step. .

As long as the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress is within the range of the present invention, it is possible to relax the once shrunk fabric by setting the relaxation temperature higher than the extreme temperature. By this relaxing action, it is possible to suppress the hardening of the texture and sufficiently express the swelling feeling of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament. For example, in the case of a fabric comprising a thick and thin shrinkage-mixed multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% and an extreme temperature of dry heat shrinkage stress of 100 ° C,
If the relaxation temperature is 120 ° C, 1
Once a shrinkage of 30% occurs at about 00 ° C., relaxation occurs until the temperature reaches 120 ° C., and it is possible to obtain a fabric having a swelling feeling and no hardening of the texture.

If the boiling water shrinkage ratio is as high as 10 to 40%,
In addition, when the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress exceeds 120 ° C., the fabric cannot be relaxed in the relaxation step, and the fabric is excessively shrunk and the texture is hardened. The extremum temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress of the conventionally known multi-filament with different shrinkage is about 130 ° C. to 170 ° C., so that the relaxation effect in the relaxation step as in the present invention cannot be obtained.

If the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress is lower than 90 ° C., the relaxation is excessive in the relaxation step, and no matter how much the boiling water shrinkage rate is increased, no swelling feeling can be exhibited. The preferred range of the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress is 9
0 ° C to 120 ° C, most preferably 95 ° C to 11 ° C.
It is in the range of 5 ° C. The multifilament of the present invention has a great feature in that the multifilament is a heterofilament mixed yarn and has a thickness in the length direction of the multifilament.

The thick and thin index is represented by a fineness variation value U% measured by an evening tester described later. In the present invention, the fineness variation value U% needs to be 2% to 6%.
By setting the fineness variation value U% in the range of the present invention, in addition to the swelling feeling of the hetero-shrinkage mixed multifilament, the length of the thick portion is about 5 mm to 40 mm, and the thick and thin difference between the thick portion and the thin portion is reduced. Relatively small, heather tone is suppressed and it is relatively solid color, but there is a slight change in color tone, and because of the presence of unstretched parts, fine swelling feeling due to the difference in heat shrinkage and its thick difference And a dry silky tone is obtained.

When the fineness variation value U% is less than 2%, a solid color tone is obtained, and only a feeling of a known known different shrinkage mixed fiber multifilament can be obtained. When the fineness variation value U% exceeds 6%, the length of the thick part becomes as long as about 50 mm, and the heather tone and the crispness become remarkable. The preferred fineness variation value U% is 2%
５5%. A second invention of the present invention is a knitted fabric formed by knitting and weaving the multifilament of the first invention.
The knitted fabric of the present invention may be used for any of a warp, a weft or a warp if the above-mentioned thick / fine shrinkage mixed multifilament is a woven fabric. In addition, as a knit, it is adopted for circular knitting, tricot, and the like.

The multifilament having different thickness and shrinkage may be used alone, or may be used by mixing or interweaving with other fibers. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the multifilament having different thickness and shrinkage may be used in a non-twisted or twisted state. In the case of twisted, the number of twists is not particularly limited, but is usually 2
00 T / m to 3000 T / m is adopted. The twist number is preferably a relatively low twist number in the range of 300 T / m to 1500 T / m in order to more fully express the swelling feeling of the hetero-shrinkage mixed multifilament. Examples of the type of fabric include, but are not particularly limited to, georgette crepes such as dobby georgette, piqué georgette, check georgette, and chiffon georgette; lattice weave;

[0028] The third invention of the present invention relates to a method for producing the multifilament of the first invention, which is a thick and thin shrinkage mixed fiber. In the present invention, in a direct spin drawing method in which two types of polyesters having different heat shrinkage properties are simultaneously melt-spun and then undrawn yarns are continuously drawn without being once wound, the drawing region of the multifilament is set to two stages, The first stage is stretched between the first heated godet roll and the second heated godet roll, and the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament is set to 6% or more,
Next, the second stage needs to be stretched between the heated second godet roll and the non-heated third godet roll to make the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament to 2% to 6%.

In the present invention, it is necessary to perform multi-filament drawing in two steps in the direct spin drawing method.
In order to realize two-stage stretching, it is desirable to use stretching equipment having first, second, and third godet rolls. Also in the production method of the present invention, the low heat shrinkage component of the polyester different shrinkage component is substantially polyethylene terephthalate, and the high heat shrinkage component is a copolymer having a melting onset temperature (Tm1) of 200 ° C. or more measured by a differential scanning calorimeter. Must be polyethylene terephthalate.

The reason and attendant requirements are exactly the same as those of the first and second inventions, and are as described above. FIG. 4 shows a schematic diagram of a preferred spinning and drawing equipment for carrying out the production method of the present invention. In the invention of the third manufacturing method, FIG.
As shown in (1), the non-drawn mixed yarn drawn by the first godet roll (15) is heated on the first godet roll maintained at a predetermined temperature, and the second godet roll (17) and the first godet roll (15). The first-stage stretching is performed at a peripheral speed ratio of.

The undrawn mixed yarn is incompletely drawn between the first heated godet roll and the second heated godet roll,
The fineness variation value U% at this stage is stretched to 6% or more.
Here, the incomplete drawing means that the drawing is performed at a lower drawing temperature or draw ratio than in a normal direct spinning drawing method. That is, in the direct spin drawing method for obtaining a normal drawn yarn, the heating first
The temperature of the godet roll is between 80 ° C and 100 ° C,
A second godet roll temperature of 130 ° C. to 180 ° C. is adopted. As the stretching ratio, a ratio at which the elongation of the drawn yarn is 40% or less and the fineness variation value U% is 2% or less is adopted.

In the present invention, in the first-stage stretching, it is necessary to stretch the fineness variation value U% to 6% or more. When the fineness variation value U% is stretched to less than 6%, it becomes difficult to set the fineness variation value U% to 2% to 6% within the range of the present invention in the subsequent second-stage stretching. A preferable fineness variation value U% of the first-stage stretching is in a range of 6% to 10%. The draw ratio of the first stage varies depending on the speed of the heated first godet roll (same as the spinning speed), the fineness of the multifilament to be spun, the cross-sectional shape of the fiber, and the like, and is appropriately selected in consideration of these factors. For example, if the spinning speed is 2000 m / min, the draw ratio is selected from the range of 2.0 to 2.3 times.

In the present invention, the temperature of the first heated godet roll is preferably 60 to 90 ° C. More preferably, 60 ° C
~ 80 ° C. The temperature of the heated second godet roll is preferably in the range of 110 ° C to 140 ° C. If heating second
If the godet roll is lower than 110 ° C., the boiling water shrinkage becomes 40% or more, which causes excessive shrinkage of the fabric and hardening of the hand, which is not preferable. The preferable temperature range of the heated second godet roll is 120 to 140 ° C.

In the present invention, it is necessary to perform the second-stage stretching between the heated second godet roll and the non-heated third godet roll such that the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament becomes 2% to 6%. . The second stage stretching ratio is selected according to the fineness variation value U% of the first stage. When the fineness variation value U% in the first-stage stretching is in a preferable range, that is, 6% to 10%, the second-stage stretching ratio is 1.01 to 1.1.
A range of 0 times is employed. Preferably 1.02 to 1.
09 times, most preferably 1.02 times to 1.07 times.

In the second stage of stretching, the third godet roll needs to be unheated. here,
Non-heating means that there is no heating device inside the godet roll. In actual production, the temperature is raised to about 30 ° C. to 70 ° C. depending on the atmosphere around the equipment, but within this range, the effects of the present invention are not hindered. The temperature of the third godet roll should not exceed 70 ° C. 7
If the temperature exceeds 0 ° C., the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress of the multifilament having a different thickness and shrinkage, which is an important requirement of the first invention of the present invention, exceeds 120 ° C. Not achieved.

The third godet roll is about 30 ° C. to 60 ° C.
Is preferably within the range. In the present invention, the third
The multifilament having different thickness and shrinkage from the godet roll (18) is entangled by an interlacer (19) and wound into a cheese-like package by a winder (20). A known method, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 3
The method described in the specification of Japanese Patent No. 381074 may be applied.

That is, a spin head made so that substantial polyethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate are melt-extruded by two extruders (3) and (4) and both polymers are fed without merging. Through (7) and pack (8), both polymers are discharged from separate holes in spinneret (9). Then, after being cooled and applied with a finishing agent, it is taken up by a first godet roll (15) of a stretching machine rotating at a predetermined speed,
It becomes a mixed fiber undrawn yarn. However, it is taken by another take-up roll (pre-tension roll) arranged before the first godet roll of the drawing machine to obtain a mixed fiber undrawn yarn, and then introduced into the first godet roll (15) of the drawing machine. You may.

The composite spinning section common to FIG. 4 will be described below. The polyethylene terephthalate is supplied to the A side and the copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate is supplied to the B side. The dried pellets of both polymers are fed to respective hoppers (1), (2), followed by extruders (3),
The melt is melted in (4), and the melts are respectively bent (5),
After passing through (6), it is supplied to the spin head (7). Both polymers are respectively metered and reach the spinneret (9) via separate channels (8). The two polymers are discharged from separate holes of the spinneret (9) without merging, and form two kinds of filament groups (10) and (11). After being cooled by the cooling air (12) while thinning, the finishing agent applying device (13)
And a take-off roll (15) to take up the finish at a predetermined speed and supply it to a stretching machine.

[0039]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments. In the present invention including Examples, the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress and the fineness variation value U% are measured by the following methods. [Extreme temperature of dry heat shrinkage stress] Thermal stress measurement device (for example,
It is measured using Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd., trade name KE-2). The yarn (multifilament) is cut to a length of 20 cm, and the both ends are connected to form a loop, which is then loaded into a measuring machine. Initial load 0.05 g / d, heating rate 100 ° C
Per minute, and the temperature change of the thermal stress is drawn on a chart, and the peak value of the thermal stress curve is read. The temperature at which the value becomes maximum is defined as the extreme temperature of the dry heat shrinkage stress.

[U%] USTER TESTER 3
(Manufactured by Zellweger) under the following conditions. Measurement conditions: High pass filter Yes Measurement speed 50m / min Measuring Sloot 3 Test time 5 minutes Tensional force 1.25% Pressure 2.5 bar Twist 1500S

[Strength and elongation] Measured according to JIS-L1015. [Hand] The hand of the fabric was evaluated by three experienced engineers. Evaluate swelling, dryness, firmness, and stiffness,
◎ The ones that have the swelling feeling that is the characteristic of the different shrinkage mixed fiber and the dry surface touch, firmness, and the stiffness that are the characteristics of the thick and thin yarn are ◎; To × ”.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 The following polymers are used. Low heat shrinkage component: polyethylene terephthalate with [η] = 0.65 (containing 0.5 wt% TiO ₂ ) High heat shrinkage component: 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane is a diol component Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.5 wt% TiO ₂ ) of 10 mol% copolymerized [η] = 0.65 as the spinning machine. Direct spinning and winding (spin draw take-up) was performed using a two-stage godet roll type stretching machine.

The first godet roll and the second godet roll of the stretching machine are both of a heating type, and the third godet roll is of a non-heating type. The spinning, drawing and winding conditions are as follows.
Under these conditions, the polyester thick / shrinkage mixed multifilament multifilament 90d / 36f, that is, a trilobal of 18 filaments with 2.5 denier single yarn on the low heat shrinkable component side and 18 filaments with 2.5 denier single yarn on the high heat shrinkable component side. A multifilament was obtained.

Spinning condition Extruder heater temperature Low heat shrinkage component side High heat shrinkage component side C1 295 ° C 280 ° C C2 295 ° C 280 ° C C3 295 ° C 280 ° C C4 295 ° C 280 ° C Bend temperature 295 ° C 280 ° C Spin head temperature 295 ° C 295 ° C Spout Y-shaped hole (18 holes) Y-shaped hole (18 holes) Discharge rate 19.1 g / min 19.1 g / min Cooling air velocity 0.3 m / sec 0.3 m / sec Finishing agent adhesion rate 0.7 wt% 0. 7wt%

Stretching conditions First godet roll temperature 60 ° C. Peripheral speed 1800 m / min Lap number 7.5 Second godet roll temperature 120 ° C. Peripheral speed 3780 m / min, ie, stretching ratio 2.10 times Number of laps 6.5 Third godet roll temperature 50 ° C. Peripheral speed Changed as shown in Table 1 Number of laps 5.5 times Winding tension 0.15g / d Winding weight 6Kg

In this example, the second-stage stretching, ie, the ratio between the second godet roll and the third godet roll was changed as shown in Table 1. Each of the obtained multifilaments having a different shrinkage ratio was subjected to S-twist and Z-twist at 2000 T / m.
To form a dobby georgette crepe fabric having a warp of 75 strands / inch and a weft of 75 strands / inch in the order of SSZZ. The relaxation temperature before dyeing was 120 ° C. Table 1 shows the thick and thin patterns and the texture of the obtained woven fabric.

As is apparent from the present embodiment, the first to fifth embodiments are described.
In the range of the present invention, in which the fineness variation value U% of the thick / shrinkage mixed multifilament shown in FIG. 5 is 2% to 6%, the feeling of swelling, which is relatively plain, is characteristic of the different shrinkage mixed fiber. A dry silky-like woven fabric having the dryness characteristic of thick and thin yarn was obtained. In Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the fineness variation value U%
However, the only thing that was strong and had a long chic heather tone. In Comparative Example 3, the fineness variation value U% was small, equivalent to that of a normal hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber, and did not reach the dry silky tone.

[0048]

[Table 1]

(Examples 6 to 9, Comparative Examples 4 and 5) Example 1
-5, the draw ratio of the second stage, that is, the ratio of the second godet roll and the third godet roll is constant at 1.020 times,
The draw ratios of the first step were varied as shown in Table 2. The texture of the woven fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 is shown in Table 2. 1
In Examples 6 to 9, in which the stretching in the step was in the range of the fineness variation value U% of 2% to 6%, a dry silky-like woven fabric having a good swelling feeling and a dry texture was obtained. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 4, only the fineness variation value U% was large and the thick part had a long heather tone. In Comparative Example 5, the fineness variation value U
% Was equal to that of a normal hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber, and did not reach dry silky tone.

[0050]

[Table 2]

(Examples 10 to 12, Comparative Examples 6 and 7) Under the conditions of Example 2, the temperature of the heated second godet roll was varied as shown in Table 3. The texture of the woven fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 is shown in Table 3. As is clear from Table 3, Examples 10 to 12 in which the extreme values of the boiling water shrinkage and the dry heat shrinkage stress were within the range of the present invention had a good dry silk-like texture. In Comparative Example 5, in which the extreme values of the boiling water shrinkage and the dry heat shrinkage stress were out of the range of the present invention, the texture was hardened. Comparative Example 6 also lacked a swelling feeling.

[0052]

[Table 3]

[0053]

According to the present invention, the feminine-like hetero-shrinkable multifilament multifilament is formed into the above-mentioned C-type thick and thin yarn, thereby providing a solid and full-bodied feeling having both features. And a dry silky-like knitted fabric having a dry surface touch feeling can be realized.
In addition, the present invention provides a dry silky material having a dry touch and a crisp feeling in addition to the features of the conventional silky material, and a large package thereof. In producing such a new silky material, and in using it in a post-processing step, the polyester thin / shrinkage mixed multifilament is economically advantageous, that is, by a direct spin drawing method which is low cost. Can be manufactured.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram illustrating a type A thick multifilament thin filament.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing a B-type thick and thin multifilament with thick and thin multifilaments.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a C-type thick and thin multifilament with thick and thin multifilaments.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a direct spinning and drawing facility for realizing a method for producing a multifilament of different thickness and shrinkage which is the third invention of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Hopper 2 Hopper 3 Extruder 4 Extruder 5 Bend 6 Bend 7 Spin head 8 Pack 9 Spinneret 10 A component filament group 11 B component filament group 12 Cooling air 13 Finishing agent applying device 14 Mixed undrawn yarn 15 1 godet roll (heating type) 16 separator roll 17 2nd godet roll (heating type) 18 3rd godet roll (non-heating type) 19 interlacer 20 winder (and cheese-like package)

Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D02J 1/22 302 D02J 1/22 302

Claims (4)

[Claims] Claims: 1. A thick and thin shrink-blend multifilament comprising two kinds of polyesters having different heat shrinkage rates,
The multifilament has a boiling water shrinkage of 10% to 40%, an extreme temperature of dry heat shrinkage stress of 80 ° C to 120 ° C, and a fineness variation U% of 2% to 6%. Thick and thin shrink mixed multifilament. 2. A thick and thin shrink-blend multifilament comprising two kinds of polyesters having different heat shrinkage rates,
The multifilament has a boiling water shrinkage of 10% to 40%, an extreme temperature of dry heat shrinkage stress of 90 ° C to 120 ° C, and a fineness variation U% of 2% to 6%. A knitted fabric comprising shrink-blend multifilaments. 3. In a direct spin drawing method in which two types of polyesters having different heat shrinkage properties are simultaneously melt-spun and then undrawn yarns are continuously drawn without being wound once, the multifilament drawing region is set to two stages. The first stage is heated first
It is stretched between the godet roll and the heated second godet roll to make the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament 6% or more, and then the second stage is stretched between the heated second godet roll and the non-heated third godet roll. A method for producing a multifilament with a fine and shrinkage mixed fiber, wherein the fineness variation value U% of the multifilament is 2% to 6%. 4. The temperature of the first godet roll to be heated is 60 ° C. or more.
90 ° C and the second godet roll temperature from 110 ° C to 14 ° C.
4. The method according to claim 3, wherein the temperature is 0 ° C. and the third godet roll temperature is not heated.