JPH08260279A - Silky textured polyester yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a touch feeling having crispiness (body) without any roughness from a textured yarn, capable of providing a dry touch and a glossy feelings recognized in a taffeta of a degummed silk woven fabric and further having a moderate bulkiness degree and an ultralow shrinkage factor due to actualized fine random crimps. CONSTITUTION: The characteristic of this silky polyester textured yarn comprises a cation-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn containing 1.0-2.0mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and has a shrinkage factor in boiling water within the range of 1-5% and a bulkiness degree within the range of 2-6cc/g. Furthermore, the method for producing the silky textured polyester yarn is to provide a drawn yarn of the cation-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn containing 1.0-2.0mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, then pass the drawn yarn over the top surface of a hot pin in contact therewith at 10-20% relaxation ratio, apply unevenness of heat treatment among single filaments, subsequently heat-treat the resultant yarn under relaxed conditions and develop crimps. The resultant yarn has 1-5% shrinkage factor in boiling water and 2-6cc/g bulkiness degree.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a silk-like polyester textured yarn and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a silk-like polyester processed yarn having both ultra-low shrinkage and high bulkiness capable of expressing the texture of a previously knitted silk fabric having excellent surface uniformity without loops and fluff, and a method for producing the same. It is.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Generally, as bulking processing methods for silk fabric-like synthetic fiber multifilament yarns, crimped yarns by processing, crimped yarns by rubbing or fluid disturbance, conjugate yarns by fiber structure difference, shrinkage difference It is known that a method of mixing two-component filament yarn having a certain amount is known. Further, as a method of producing a silky bulky yarn by irregularly processing the single yarn constituting the yarn, for example,
JP-B-47-47550, JP-A-49-4294
No. 8 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-10691.

However, both the conventional bulky textured yarn and the bulky textured yarns described in the above-mentioned publications, etc., have a drape property of a kneaded silk fabric which is woven with raw silk (raw silk) and then scoured.
It was proposed with the goal of soft texture. Crimp

[0004]

However, as a trend of fashion, there is an increasing need for a feeling of a previously knitted silk fabric which is woven using a refined silk thread. The characteristics of the hand are waist and tension compared to the rear-knitted silk fabric, and those in which sericin is partially retained have a crispy feeling that tends to be temporarily wrinkled like paper. Furthermore, it has a swelling without a core and is excellent in a feeling of snagging and dryness. However, in the above-described known examples, the waist, tension, crispy feeling, wall thickness feeling, feeling of snagging on the surface, etc. are insufficient, and the hand feels hard to be said to be a silk-like silk fabric. Further, as an alternative to sericin, it is possible to fix a sizing agent during weaving.

[0005] However, the texture of this product is strong,
It is different from the texture of silk fabric with some sericin remaining.

An object of the present invention is to provide a silk-like polyester textured yarn for obtaining a cloth having the above-mentioned texture characteristics of the previously kneaded silk fabric.

[0007]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the silk-like polyester processed yarn of the present invention has the following constitution. That is, it is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn containing 1.0 to 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, and has a boiling water shrinkage of 1
The silk-like polyester processed yarn is characterized by having a bulkiness degree of -5% and a bulk height of 2-6 cc / g.

The method for producing a silk-like polyester processed yarn of the present invention has the following constitution. That is, 1.0 to 2.0
After obtaining a drawn yarn of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multi-filament yarn containing a mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, it is passed through a hot pin with a relaxation rate of 10 to 20% to cause uneven heat treatment between single fibers. Giving, then heat treatment for relaxation to develop crimp, and shrinkage rate of boiling water of 1 to 5
%, And a bulk height of 2 to 6 cc / g, which is a method for producing a silk-like polyester processed yarn.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention will be described in detail below.

The raw yarn polymer used in the present invention has a 5-
A cationic dyeable polyester containing 1.0 to 2.0 mol% of a sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is used.

Here, if the acid component is less than 1.0%, the dry feeling is insufficient, and if it exceeds 2.0 mol%, a material having a high elongation cannot be obtained, which is not practical.

The cross-section of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn has a triangular cross-section because it gives a silky luster.

Further, in order to obtain a crispy feeling and a swelling without a core which are easy to tentatively wrinkle like paper having the texture of a pretended silk fabric, the above-mentioned cationic dyeable polyester multifilament is used. The yarn may be processed using the yarn so as to have the following processed yarn characteristics. That is,
The boiling water shrinkage is 1 to 5%, preferably 1 to 3%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 1%, defects such as omission of elbows after forming into a fabric occur, and if it exceeds 5%, the texture of a pre-spun silk fabric cannot be obtained. Further, the bulk altitude is set to 2 to 6 cc / g. If the bulk height is less than 2 cc / g, a coreless swelling, that is, a soft feeling cannot be obtained, and a bulkiness exceeding 6 cc / g cannot be obtained with the above-mentioned processed yarn having a shrinkage ratio of boiling water of 5% or less.

Next, the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described.

FIG. 1 shows one embodiment of the method for producing a silk-like polyester textured yarn according to the present invention. The yarn unwound from the supply raw yarn pan 1 is brought into contact with the heat pin 3 through the yarn guide 8 while being in an overfeed state between the feed roller 2 and the feed roller 4. Due to the contact with the heat pin 3, the running multifilament undergoes a difference in heat reception between the single yarns to exhibit a yarn length difference and crimp, and at the same time becomes a bulky yarn having a lower shrinkage than the original yarn. In this case, the overfeed ratio of the feed roller 2 and the feed roller 4 is a range that does not interfere with the yarn processability while taking into consideration the dry heat shrinkage ratio of the multifilament yarn to be used in order to obtain a further reduced high bulky yarn. Therefore, it is desirable to set a high overfeed rate, preferably 10 to 20%. Further, there is no problem if the temperature of the heating pin is set within a range not lower than the glass transition point and not higher than the melting point of the multifilament yarn used. Further, it is important that the time of contact with the heating body is shorter than the time of transfer of heat from the heating body to the entire filaments of the traveling multifilament yarn. In practice, considering the production efficiency, a short time of 0.1 seconds or less is the heating body contact time to be used. Further, it is preferable that the running multifilament after passing through the heating pin is opened in a wave shape. Similarly to the primary heat treatment, the heater 5 provided between the feed roller 4 and the feed roller 6 is set to a high overfeed rate to a range that does not hinder the yarn processability, and further promotes the reduction and the high bulkiness. Aim for sex. At this time, the heater 5 used is a contact type plate heater,
Either non-contact type tube heater may be used.

The above-mentioned steps are described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-1069.
The process described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 1 can be considered as an approximate example.
However, the process described in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 55-10691 is a process in which a tension treatment is applied during the process, not a relaxation treatment, and therefore, a yarn of ultra-low shrinkage and high bulk height, which is the object of the present invention, is obtained. Is different from the method of the present invention in that it is difficult to obtain a fabric having a poor thickness feeling.

Further, in order to further increase the elasticity and tension, the above-mentioned cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn may be used to perform yarn processing so as to have the following single fiber fineness constitution and processed yarn characteristics.

Component (A): Single fiber fineness of 1.0 to 3.0 d Component (B): Single fiber fineness of 2.0 to 5.0 d Single fiber fineness ratio of component (A) and component (B) ( B) / (A)
Is 1.5 to 3.5, the boiling water shrinkage rate as a whole of the processed yarn is 1 to 5%, and the bulk height is 2 to 6 cc / g. The processed yarn is subjected to a boiling water treatment and a dry heat treatment. The core-sheath structure yarn is formed, and the component (A) having a small single fiber fineness becomes a sheath, and the component (B) having a large single fiber fineness becomes a core. At this time, the difference in yarn length between the core and the sheath is 2 to 5%.

The single fiber fineness of the component (A) is 1.0d.
If it is less than 3, the dry feeling, silky gloss and color developability are insufficient, and if it exceeds 3.0 d, it becomes coarse and hard. If the single fiber fineness of the component (B) is less than 2.0 d, the stiffness and tension are insufficient, and if it exceeds 5.0 d, it becomes too coarse. If the single fiber fineness ratio is less than 1.5, the waist and the tension are insufficient, and if it exceeds 3.5, the drawback-like defects are conspicuous.

As described above, the reason why the extremely low shrinkage and the high bulkiness are required is that the crispy effect (paper-like tension and temporary wrinkles are prone to occur) which is a major feature of the natural kneaded silk fabric. Properties), a bulge without a core, and a texture with a high feeling of thickness.

The reason why the smaller the boiling water shrinkage is, the greater the crispy effect is, is considered as follows. When the cross section of the woven fabric is observed with an electron microscope (SEM) photograph, the yarn tends to converge due to the thermal history under tension during the dyeing process. This tendency is larger as the boiling water shrinkage is larger, and as a result, voids are formed in the fabric. , The yarn becomes easy to move and the crispy effect is impaired.

The method of measuring physical property values in the present invention will be described below.

<Boiling water shrinkage rate> A standard load is applied using a measuring machine, 5 small cassettes are taken at a speed of 120 times / minute, and left in the room for 12 hours or more. Thereafter, a skein length 1 is read 30 seconds later by suspending a load of 1/30 g per 1 d. Next, the load is removed, the figure is formed into a figure, and the figure is wrapped in a gauze that has been folded in two and formed into a loop, and the sample is put into a bath in boiling water and treated for 30 minutes. After treatment, air dry for 12 hours or more in the room, and after drying,
Similar to the measurement of original length, read the length l ′ after processing and {(l-
Let the value calculated by 1 ') / l} x 100 (%) be the boiling water shrinkage.

<Bulk altitude> Take 5 threads of the thread wound 80 times with a wire reeling machine, and after 20 minutes of boiling water treatment, apply a load of 4 mg / d to dry heat treatment at 170 ° C for 3 minutes. The treated volume is folded in four and the apparent volume per unit weight is calculated by dividing the apparent volume by applying a load of 50 g of 2.5 cm polyester tape woven fabric and dividing by the weight of the thread contained in this tape. This is the calculated volume.

[0025]

【Example】

(Example 1, Comparative Examples 1 to 3) 50-denier / 36 filaments triangular cross-section drawn yarn (boiling water shrinkage 8.6%) of cationic dye dyeable polyester containing 1.7 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, and A polyester 50 denier / 36 filament triangular cross-section drawn yarn (sodium sulfoisophthalic acid) -free filament (with a boiling water shrinkage of 8.0%) was applied on the hot pin by the method shown in FIG. Was passed through to give uneven heat treatment between the single fibers, and subsequently, a relaxation heat treatment was performed under the secondary heat treatment conditions shown in Table 1 to perform yarn processing to develop crimps.

[0026]

[Table 1] The obtained textured yarns (for Example 1 and Comparative Example 1) and 1
Using the textured yarn for Comparative Example 2 subjected only to the secondary heat treatment and the textured yarn for Comparative Example 3 subjected only to the secondary heat treatment, the plain yarn was woven under the conditions shown in Table 2 for both warp and weft. .

[0027]

[Table 2] These fabrics are scoured, dried, treated with less than usual alkali weight loss (weight loss rate: about 5%), and dyed (cationic dye dyeing at 120 ° C .;
30 ° C.) and finish setting (160 ° C.).

Table 1 also shows the results of the sensory evaluation of the processing characteristics of the obtained processed yarn and the texture of the woven fabric.

As is clear from Table 1, Example 1 of the present invention
The woven fabric obtained in 1. is stretched like taffeta of a silk kneading fabric,
It was excellent in dry feeling, catching feeling and moderate swelling feeling.

On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 was inferior in dry feeling, snagging feeling and tension, and the object of the present invention could not be obtained. Further, since the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 is not subjected to the secondary heat treatment, that is, the relaxation heat treatment, the boiling water shrinkage ratio is excessive and the bulkiness is insufficient, so that the fabric is inferior in the feeling of tension and snag. I could not get the texture.

The woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 3 lacked in bulk height,
The texture desired by the present invention was not obtained.

[0032]

The fabric of the present invention has the following excellent effects. In other words, the modified filament of the polyester filament containing 1.0 to 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component provided a dry feeling and a glossy feeling comparable to taffeta of a pre-knitted silk fabric, and became more apparent. The textured yarn having an appropriate bulk height and ultra-low shrinkage due to fine random crimping provides a crispy feeling (tension) and an excellent feel without a core.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of a manufacturing process according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Feeding yarn yarn pan 2, 4, 6: Feed roller 3: Hot pin 5: Heat treatment heater 7: Winding package 8: Thread guide

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code Internal reference number FI Technical display location D02G 3/36 D02G 3/36 D02J 1/00 D02J 1/00 W // D03D 15/00 D03D 15 / 00 A (72) Inventor Toshiaki Miura 1-1 Kamiyakeji, Kamimiyake, Heiwacho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Tokai Plant

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A polyester multifilament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, which comprises 1.0 to 2.0 mol% of a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and has a boiling water shrinkage of 1.
A silk-like polyester processed yarn characterized by having a bulkiness of 2 to 6 cc / g in an amount of -5%. 2. The silk-like polyester textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the fiber cross-section of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn is a triangular cross-section. 3. A drawn yarn of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn containing 1.0 to 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is obtained, and then on a hot pin with a relaxation rate of 10 to 20%. Is passed through to give uneven heat treatment between single fibers, followed by relaxation heat treatment to develop crimps, boiling water shrinkage of 1 to 5%, and bulk height of 2 to 6 cc / g.
A method for producing a silk-like polyester textured yarn, which comprises: 4. The method for producing a silk-like polyester textured yarn according to claim 3, wherein the fiber cross section of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn is a triangular cross section.