JPH08170270A - Treatment for quality improvement of yarn-dyed silk fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To improve the frictional fastness and wrinkleproofness of a yarn-dyed silk fabric without impairing the touch feeling, luster and wearing comfortableness inherent in the fabric, by immersing a yarn-dyed silk fabric in an aqueous treating liquor containing a specific component. CONSTITUTION: A yarn-dyed silk fabric (esp. DOROZOME OOSHIMA TUMUGI dyed with a tannin derived from Rhaphiolepis umbellata Makino) is immersed in a treating liquor prepared by incorporating a water-soluble silk fibroin solution with an amino acid-based surfactant of the formula X is H or Na; R is a Cn H2n+1 [(n) is 11-17 (odd number)]}, and the resultant fabric is drawn off the liquor and then dried at 100 deg.C. By this method, a silk fibroin film is provided on the surface of the silk fibers, resulting in improving the frictional fastness of this silk fabric. Besides, the deepness and light fastness of this yarn- dyed silk fabric subjected to herd dyeing are improved.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for improving the quality of a yarn-dyed silk fabric. In particular, the present invention relates to a treatment method for improving the fastness to abrasion of mud-dyed Oshima pongee dyed with sari bain tannin.

[0002]

[Prior Art] Yarn dyed silk fabrics such as Oshima Tsumugi are light, warm,
It is highly valued for its excellent taste, such as not wrinkling, and its color, luster, and texture created by a long-standing tradition.

[0003] In particular, Mud Oshima Tsumugi uses tannin liquid extracted from Sharinbai, which is made by mixing dozens of silk yarns before being made into a fabric with lime and mud, and coloring the silk yarns several times. Manufactured into a woven fabric, and is evaluated for its unique texture and astringent color tone. However, the conventional Oshima Tsumugi, which has become a yarn-dyed silk fabric, has a tendency for the dye to fall off due to friction, and contaminating belts and the like has been a problem.

[0004] To overcome this drawback, the resin processing of mud dyed Oshima Tsumugi has improved the fastness against friction, but the treatment of a resin different from silk loses the luster and texture unique to silk. Another problem was that it was not a technical solution.

[0005] In addition, various attempts have been made, such as gluing and oiling the mud-dyed silk thread, but each has its own drawbacks, and it has been difficult to improve and improve the fastness to friction of the mud-dyed Oshima pongee.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to prevent rubbing of dyed silk fabrics, which has been a defect until now, without impairing the unique gloss and texture of dyed silk fabrics such as mud dyed Oshima pongee. It is to establish a treatment method that improves quality such as hardness.

Improvement of the quality of the dyed silk fabric such as mud dyed Oshima tsumugi is intended to improve the fastness to rubbing, wrinkle resistance and the like, as well as to increase the dyeing density in the dyeing of plants and plants and the fastness to light.

[0008]

In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention provides a method of immersing a pre-dyed silk fabric or a dyed silk thread in a treatment solution obtained by adding an amino acid-based surfactant to an aqueous solution of silk fibroin. After that, by dehydrating and drying, the gist is a treatment method that aims to increase the dyeing density in plant dyeing, improve light fastness, etc. together with the fastness to friction of wool-dyed silk fabric such as mud dyed Oshima pongee, anti-wrinkle, etc. .

The silk fibroin aqueous solution is obtained by placing waste silk in a 50% calcium chloride aqueous solution, boiling for 30 minutes, and dialyzing the dissolved silk waste. The molecular weight of silk fibroin in the solution is 1,000 to 1,000. Prepare in the range of 100,000.

In this aqueous solution of silk fibroin, an amino acid represented by the general formula 1 (wherein X is H or Na, and R is C _n H _{2n + 1} (alkyl group) with n = 11 to 17 (odd number)) A solution prepared by adding a surfactant and further adding water to adjust the concentration of silk fibroin to 0.5% to 3% and the concentration of amino acid surfactant to 0.01% to 0.1%. And

[0011]

[Chemical 1]

A yarn-dyed silk fabric such as a mud dyed Oshima pongee or a dyed silk thread is immersed in the treatment solution, taken up from the treatment solution, passed through a roll mangle, and deliquored to a wet pickup of 100%. Dry at 100 ° C.

[0013]

According to the treatment method of the present invention, a silk fibroin film is formed on the fiber surface of a yarn-dyed silk fabric such as a mud-dyed oshima pongee, thereby preventing falling off of sharin bytannin fixed on the fiber surface by dyeing, thereby reducing friction. Is improved.

Furthermore, by adding an amino acid-based surfactant having a chemical structure similar to that of silk to silk fibroin, the flexibility, texture, and gloss unique to silk fabric can be maintained.

The treatment liquid obtained by adding an amino acid-based surfactant to an aqueous solution of silk fibroin has an excellent affinity for silk fibers.

Silk fibroin and amino acid-based surfactants,
The fibers of silk fabrics have amide bonds in their chemical structure, and since sharin bitannin has hydroxyl groups and carboxyl groups, it is thought that they are strongly bonded to each other by hydrogen bonds, etc. It is considered that this contributes to the improvement of the quality such as the fastness to friction after the friction.

Further, the silk fibroin film gives a moist and deep color tone to the surface of the dyed silk fiber, resulting in an increase in the dyeing density of the dyed silk fabric.

The concentration of the aqueous solution of silk fibroin varies depending on the type of the fabric and the like. However, in order to improve the fastness against friction and maintain the unique texture of the silk fabric, 0.5% to 3% is used. Appropriate.

The silk fibroin used in the present invention is water-soluble having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 100,000. When the molecular weight is 1,000 or less, the above-mentioned improvement in fastness to friction is not recognized. If it exceeds 100,000, it is not possible to maintain the unique texture of silk fabric.

The treatment method of dipping in a silk fibroin solution, dehydration and drying can achieve an improvement in the fastness to rubbing of the treated dyed silk fabric, but considering the performance such as the fiber becoming hard and the texture, It is necessary to use an amino acid surfactant or the like.

According to the present invention, in addition to maintaining the fastness to friction of the yarn-dyed silk fabric and the unique texture of the silk fabric, the wrinkle resistance, the effect of preventing fluff, and the improvement in form stability become remarkable.

[0022]

[Embodiment 1] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to embodiments. 250 g of an 8% fibroin solution (a silk fibroin having an average molecular weight of 60,000) was obtained by dissolving the waste silk by placing the waste silk in a 50% calcium chloride aqueous solution and boiling for 30 minutes to use the silk fibroin having an average molecular weight of 60,000. 0.5 g of disodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate as an agent was taken, and the total amount was made up to 1 liter with water. A sample of mud dyed Oshima Tsumugi is immersed in this processing solution, taken out of the processing solution, passed through a roll mangle, and wet picked up to 100%.
And dried at 100 ° C. to obtain a sample of the treatment of the present invention.

As a control, a sample was prepared which had been subjected to the same treatment as above using a treatment solution to which no amino acid-based surfactant was added.

Untreated mud dyed Oshima pongee without further treatment was added to the control section treated with the present invention treated by the method for improving the quality of the yarn-dyed silk fabric and without using the amino acid-based surfactant. A friction test, a wrinkle prevention rate, and a performance test for bending resistance were performed on the various samples, and the results shown in Table 1 were obtained.

[0025]

[Table 1]

As shown in Table 1, the samples of the present invention treated with silk fibroin and the control group showed improvement in fastness to rubbing of 1 to 3 grades compared to the untreated sample, and also the wrinkle prevention rate. A remarkable improvement of 5 to 10% was recognized, and the effect of treating silk fibroin on mud-dyed Oshima pongee was recognized.

[0027]

[Table 1]

However, the sample in the control group which did not use the amino acid-based surfactant had a softness of 8 mm more than the untreated sample.
It was found that the texture was small and the hardness was considerably hard, the degree of fastness to rubbing was about second grade and the anti-wrinkle ratio was 5% lower than that of the sample of the present invention, and it was found that an amino acid activator was required in addition to silk fibroin.

The sample of the present invention treated with silk fibroin and an amino acid-based surfactant has a class 3 or higher improvement in a friction test, a 10% improvement in wrinkle prevention, and a remarkable improvement in quality as compared with a sample without treatment. It was confirmed that the texture was almost the same as that of the untreated sample, and the quality was improved and the unique texture of the silk fabric was maintained.

The treated sample of the present invention also exhibited a remarkable effect of preventing fluff and improved morphological stability as compared with the untreated sample.

[0031]

[Example 2] A treatment test was carried out by the treatment method of the present invention on a mud-dyed silk thread used for weaving authentic Oshima pongee. An amino acid-based surfactant, N-palmityl-L disodium glutamate, was added to a 4-fold diluted solution of 8% fibroin solution.
05% was added, and the mud-dyed yarn was immersed in this treatment liquid, taken out of the treatment liquid, centrifugally drained to a wet pickup of 100%, and dried at 100 ° C. Although it was class 2, it was improved to class 4 or higher by processing, and the wrinkle prevention rate, the softness,
There was no change in quality such as texture.

[0032]

Example 3 A silk thread dyed brownish with lemon eucalyptus (the mordant was aluminum acetate) was treated in the same manner as in Example 2 to improve not only the fastness against friction but also the light fastness of about class 2. It was also confirmed that the product improved to grade 4 and became deeper in color tone than the untreated sample, and that the dyeing density increased.

[0033]

The following effects can be obtained by applying the treatment method of the present invention.

(1) Improve the fastness to friction of a yarn-dyed silk fabric such as a mud-dyed oshima pongee by 2 to 4 classes 2 Improve the anti-wrinkle properties of yarn-dyed silk fabrics such as mud dyed Oshima pongee. 3 Prevent fluff and improve form stability of yarn-dyed silk fabrics such as mud-dyed oshima pongee. 4 In addition to the unique light, warm and wrinkle-free taste of silk fabric, which was not possible with conventional techniques such as resin-dyed yarn-dyed silk fabric such as mud dyed Oshima Tsumugi,
Does not impair the texture. 5 The dyeing concentration in plant dyeing can be increased. 6 The light fastness of vegetation dyeing can be improved by about class 2.

According to the present invention, the quality is improved, especially the fastness against friction is improved, and complaints such as discoloration of a product which is already sold or worn and stain of a belt are eliminated.

The present invention is a method that can be easily processed and improved in quality, and is an extremely effective invention that can provide consumers with products that are even better than conventional products.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A water-soluble silk fibroin and a general formula 1 (Wherein X is H or Na, and R is C _n H _{2n + 1} (alkyl group) where n = 11 to 17 (odd number)). A method for improving the quality of yarn-dyed silk fabrics by dipping, dehydrating and drying yarn-dyed silk fabrics and dyed silk yarns.