JPH06287860A - Processing for cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a creasing process capable of durably imparting new type of crease without damaging cloth and processing the cloth to good feeling. CONSTITUTION:A cloth containing >= 30% of a core-sheath conjugate fiber having a saponified product of ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having 35-70mol.% of ethylene and >= 95% of saponification degree as core component and a polyamide as sheath component is subjected to a calender processing at >= 80 deg.C, at a pressure of >= 50kg/cm, then forcedly pressed 5-30% in the longitudinal direction and successively subjected to crumpling treatment with 40-100 deg.C water in a rope shape.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for processing a cloth, which is provided with wrinkle-like irregularities mainly in the weft direction to improve the surface.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a processing method for imparting wrinkle-like irregularities to the surface of a fabric, mechanical methods such as a washer, a jet dyeing machine, an embossing machine, or the like, after folding and twisting the fabric, There are methods such as fixing wrinkle irregularities, and mild wrinkles, small wrinkles, wrinkles with a sharp angle, wrinkles only in the warp direction, and wrinkles with a combination of warp and weft are obtained.

However, in reality, when wrinkle-like unevenness is imparted to the cloth by these methods, clear wrinkle-like unevenness is relatively likely to be obtained in the polyester cloth, but the polyamide fiber is dimensionally stable in the cloth. Inferior in terms of setting and setting,
In addition, it has the property of becoming easily stretchable when it absorbs moisture, making it difficult to impart clear wrinkle-like irregularities to the polyamide-based fabric. Furthermore, if the yarns that make up the fabric contain polyamide-based ultrafine fibers, it becomes difficult to obtain more distinct irregular wrinkles. Therefore, as a measure against this, if the heat conditions for wrinkle processing are further strengthened to form wrinkles, the texture of the cloth is hardened, and defects such as scratches and hits occur on the surface of the cloth, resulting in marked deterioration of the cloth. There was a problem such as impaired quality.

Further, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 51-147691, an endless rubber belt and a heat cylinder are used by using a cloth shrinkage processing device of a type in which the endless rubber belt travels in contact with a part of a heat cylinder roll. A method has been proposed in which paper and cloth are superposedly introduced between and the wrinkling process is performed.
This method has problems that the cost is increased because expensive paper is required and that the texture is hardened when the processing temperature is raised to improve the durability of the wrinkled portion. .

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of such a situation as described above.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a wrinkle-processing method for a fabric, which is capable of imparting a novel wrinkle that has never been seen to the fabric with good durability of the wrinkle, and moreover, which is capable of processing a good texture.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention achieves the above object and has the following configuration. That is, the present invention comprises 30% by weight of a core-sheath type composite fiber having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more of an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component. The fabric containing the above is used as a fabric to be processed, and the fabric is spread and calendered under the conditions of a temperature of 80 ° C. or more and a pressure of 50 kg / cm or more, and then the fabric is forcibly compressed by 5 to 30% in the warp direction, after which The fabric is in the form of rope 40-100
The gist of the present invention is a method for processing a fabric, which is characterized by treating rice with warm water at ℃.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In the method of the present invention, first, the ethylene content of 3
A fabric containing a saponification product of ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having a saponification degree of 5 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as a core component and a core-sheath type composite fiber having a polyamide component as a sheath component in an amount of 30% by weight or more is used as a processed fabric. To use.

The core component constituting this core-sheath type composite fiber is
It is a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, and its ethylene content is 35 to 70 mol%. Here, the ethylene content is measured by an NMR method (deuterium substitution / DMSO solution). If the ethylene content is less than 35 mol%, the melt viscosity of the saponified product of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer is increased, which makes it difficult to melt-spin and reduces the fiber-forming property, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the ethylene content exceeds 70 mol%, the saponification product of vinyl acetate, that is, the amount of vinyl alcohol is relatively small, the amount of hydroxyl groups is small, the hydrophilicity of the obtained fiber is lowered, and the water absorption is decreased. It is not preferable because the dyeing property or dyeing property is deteriorated.

The saponification degree of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer is 95% or more. Here, the saponification degree is also measured by the NMR method (deuterium substitution / DMSO solution). When the degree of saponification is less than 95%, the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer is likely to be thermally decomposed, which makes it difficult to melt-spin and reduces the fiber-forming property, which is not preferable.

The general physical properties of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, which is the core component of the composite fiber used in the present invention, are as follows: melting point is 150 ° C. or higher, melt index at 210 ° C. is 2-30. It is a range. Here, the melting point is the DSC method (under N ₂ atmosphere, the temperature rising rate is 10 ° C. /
Minutes). The melt index is ASTM-D-1238-65T (load 2160).
g, 190 ° C.).

On the other hand, the core-sheath type composite fiber used in the present invention has a polyamide component as a sheath component. The polyamide used as the sheath component may be any general-purpose polymer, for example, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon MXD 6, or a copolymer or blend thereof. However, from the viewpoint of the melting point and thermal stability of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, nylon 6 having a lower melting point is preferable.

The weight ratio of the core component to the sheath component of the core-sheath type composite fiber used in the present invention is as follows: core component: sheath component = 1: 0.4-
It is preferably 1: 2.4. When the amount of the sheath component is less than the above range, the thermal stability is poor, and conversely, when the amount of the sheath component is more than the above range, the heat-fixing property of wrinkles tends to be poor, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, a fabric such as a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a non-woven fabric is formed by using the core-sheath type composite fiber as described above. Upon forming the cloth, only the core-sheath type composite fibers may be used, or other fibers may be used in combination. When used in combination with other fibers, it is necessary to use at least 30% by weight of the core-sheath type composite fibers. If other fibers are used in an amount of more than 70% by weight, the wrinkle-forming property is inferior, which is not preferable, and the unique feeling of the composite fiber using the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer is impaired, which is not preferable. .

In the method of the present invention, the above-mentioned cloth is used as a work cloth, and the cloth is spread, and the temperature is 80 ° C. or higher and the pressure is 50 kg / cm.
Calendar processing is performed under the above conditions. Usually nylon 6
Calendering of fabrics made of fibers generally requires a temperature of 1
The melting point of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer used in the present invention is about 165 ° C., and the melting point of nylon 6, which is a normal polyamide fiber, is carried out at a temperature of 0 to 200 ° C. and a pressure of 50 to 300 kg / cm. Since it is about 50 ° C lower than about 215 ° C, the temperature during calendering is 80 ° C or higher, preferably 1
A sufficiently flat cloth can be obtained by processing at a temperature of 0 to 160 ° C. and a calender pressure of 50 kg / cm or more, preferably 100 to 350 kg / cm.

Next, in the method of the present invention, the above-mentioned cloth is endlessly processed by a sanforize processing machine (made by Cruette Peabody), a cam fit processing machine (made by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd.), a rigmel processing machine (made by Bradford). The rubber belt is introduced between the rubber belt and the thermal cylinder roll of the shrinking machine of the type in which it travels in contact with a part of the thermal cylinder roll, and is forcedly compressed by 5 to 30% in the longitudinal direction. The heating cylinder of the shrink processing machine can give wrinkle-like unevenness to the surface of the fabric even if it is not heated, but the heating cylinder temperature is 8 depending on the shape of wrinkles, the durability of wrinkles and the texture.
It is possible to obtain preferable results by heating to about 0 to 140 ° C. The shrinkage rate in the shrinking machine should be as high as possible, but at least 5% or more is required.
It is preferable that the shrinkage in the warp direction is about 10% because the effect of the present invention becomes more remarkable.

As described above, by forcibly shrinking the cloth, many uneven wrinkles 2 are formed in the weft direction of the cloth 1 as shown in the plan view of the cloth in FIG. The resulting fabric has irregularities. The direction of the wrinkles is the weft direction because the fabric passes through the shrinking machine in the state of being subjected to the action of shrinking in the length direction. The shape of the wrinkles differed depending on the flatness of the fabric due to calendering conditions, the tension when the fabric was introduced between the elastic rubber belt and the heat cylinder, and the difference in the pressure contact force between the elastic rubber belt and the heat cylinder. Wrinkles in shape can be obtained. In addition, as shown in FIG. 1, the wrinkle unevenness has a new size and density different from those of the conventional embossed calendered repetitive engraved wrinkles and the rope-shaped or stuffed wrinkles that use a dyeing machine. It is formed as an uneven wrinkle.

After the uneven wrinkles are provided as described above, in the method of the present invention, a rope-like hot water rubbing treatment at 40 to 100 ° C. is performed. This warm water mashing treatment may be carried out with hot water of 40 to 100 ° C. using a wince or a jet dyeing machine, or may be carried out as a dyeing process using an acid dye or the like depending on the desired hue of the product. Alternatively, softening agents or antistatic agents may be used in combination to treat rice with warm water.

The fabric thus obtained retains novel wrinkles with unevenness that have never existed before with good durability. Moreover, by rubbing warm water with a rope, calendering in the previous step The paper-like texture is massaged and loosened to give a soft texture.

The present invention has the above configuration.

[0021]

[Working] As in the present invention, when a cloth containing 30% or more of core-sheath type composite fibers containing a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component is used as a processed fabric, Since the core of the sheath-type composite fiber is about 50 ° C lower than the melting point of nylon 6, which is a normal polyamide fiber, the fabric can be flattened at a relatively low temperature during calendering, which adversely affects the feel of the hand. The fabric can be flattened while avoiding the above-mentioned situation. The flattened fabric can be fed at a relatively low temperature between the heating cylinder and the elastic rubber belt of the shrink processing machine, and pressed against the heating cylinder and the elastic rubber belt. When it is rotated along the semicircle of the cylinder, the inner surface of the elastic rubber belt contracts when it bends along the semicircle, causing uneven wrinkles on the fabric. However, at this time, since the fabric that has been flattened by calendering is in a state in which the tissue is densified and difficult to move, contraction due to uniform movement of the tissue gap and increase in crimp due to that movement are less likely to occur. There is a place where the contraction stress concentrates, and as a result,
The shrinkage is absorbed in the form of partial wrinkles as shown in FIG. 1, and the wrinkles in the weft direction inherent to the present invention are formed. Even in this forced shrinking process, due to the low melting point of the above composite fiber, it becomes possible to impart wrinkle-like irregularities having good durability at a relatively low temperature.

Since the calendering process and the forced shrinking process are performed at a relatively low temperature as described above, the paper-like cloth is easily rubbed and unraveled even when the hot water-rubbing process is performed in the rope shape in the next step. It becomes possible to obtain a fabric having good durability and texture.

[0023]

EXAMPLES Next, the method of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 A saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 45% and a saponification degree of 97% was used as the core component, and the relative viscosity was 2.
50 nylon 6 was used as a sheath component and melt-spun according to a conventional method at a core-sheath composite weight ratio of 1: 1. The spinning temperature was 210 ° C. for the core component, 260 ° C. for the sheath component, and 260 ° C. for the spinneret. After spinning, it was cooled by a wind blown from the side and wound at a take-up speed of 1200 m / min. Next, in a separate step, the film was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.24 and
A core-sheath type composite fiber of / 12f was obtained.

This composite fiber and normal nylon 6 multifilament yarn 40d / 68f are aligned and the number of entanglements is 8
An interlace treatment of 5 pieces / m was performed to obtain a mixed fiber. Next, using this mixed fiber as a warp and a weft, after weaving a plain weave with a warp density of 87 threads / inch and a weft density of 74 threads / inch, using a circular dyeing machine (manufactured by HISAKA CORPORATION)
Caustic soda 2 g / l, Sunmol FL (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd., surfactant) 1 g / l, temperature 8
Relax scouring was performed at 0 ° C. for 20 minutes.

The scouring cloth thus obtained is
A calendering machine (made by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd.) has a temperature of 14
The fabric was introduced at 0 ° C., a pressure of 240 kg / cm and a speed of 5 m / min and calendered to give a sufficiently flat cloth. At this time, the thickness of the scouring cloth before calendering is 0.31 m
m, the thickness of the flat fabric after calendering was 0.16 mm. Next, using a cam fit processing machine (manufactured by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd.), the cloth was introduced between the rubber belt and the heating cylinder, the heating cylinder temperature was 120 ° C., and the processing speed was 5 m /
For this reason, a rubber belt having a thickness of 50 mm was pressed under the condition that the rubber belt contracted and deformed to a thickness of 35 mm, and forcedly contracted by 15% in the longitudinal direction.

Although the obtained cloth is paper-like, uneven wrinkles that have never existed have occurred on the entire surface of the cloth as shown in FIG.

[0028] Here, the above-mentioned cloth is treated at 100 ° C using the above-mentioned circular dyeing machine (manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho)
Under the condition of 30 minutes, it was dyed in green with an acid dye also as a treatment with warm water. The obtained fabric had a new surface condition in which the paper-like texture before dyeing was eliminated, the texture was good, and wrinkle-shaped irregularities were formed with good durability.

[0029]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a novel wrinkle, which has never existed before, is imparted to the fabric without damaging the fabric and the wrinkle has good durability, and the fabric is wrinkled with a good texture. be able to.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view showing an example of a wrinkled fabric obtained by the method of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Cloth 2 Uneven wrinkles

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath type composite fiber comprising an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer saponified product having an ethylene content of 35 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more as a core component and a polyamide component as a sheath component, 30% by weight. The fabric containing the above is used as a fabric to be processed, and the fabric is subjected to calendering under the conditions of a temperature of 80 ° C. or more and a pressure of 50 kg / cm or more, and then the fabric is 5 to 30 in the warp direction.
% Forcibly compressed, and then the fabric is roped to 40-
A method for processing a fabric, which comprises treating rice with warm water of 100 ° C.