JP3221617B2 - Fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric mainly used for clothing, and more particularly, to a fabric having a soft feel, a firm feel and a clear hue having a tightness and a waist. The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Fabrics made of polyamide fibers have been widely used as materials for sports clothing.
However, as a material for general clothing other than sports clothing, it is not often used except for the case where it is used for lining. This is because the fabric made of polyamide fiber has a soft feeling, but has no tension and no waist.

[0003] Dyeing of fabric made of polyamide fiber does not require high pressure and high temperature as compared with dyeing fabric made of polyester fiber.
Is sufficient for staining. Moreover, it has a feature that it can be dyed more clearly than a fabric made of polyester fiber. From these facts, various developments have been made so far so that a cloth made of polyamide fiber can be used as a material for general clothing. However, it has not been sufficiently achieved to impart tension and stiffness to a fabric made of polyamide fibers while maintaining the soft feel of the polyamide fibers.

[0004]

Therefore, the present invention uses a so-called composite fiber in which the sheath on the fiber surface is made of polyamide and the core of the fiber is made of another resin having relatively high rigidity other than polyamide. By producing a fabric under certain conditions, it is intended to provide a fabric which has a clear hue, is flexible, and has tension and waist.

[0005]

That is, the present invention comprises, as a core component, a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 30 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more, and polyamide as a sheath component. Preparing a dough consisting of a conjugate fiber in which the weight ratio of the core component and the sheath component is such that the core component: the sheath component = 1: 0.4 to 2.4;
Heat treating at 180 ° C. to shrink the composite fiber;
And a step of dyeing the fabric at a temperature of 120 ° C. or less.

In the present invention, first, a conjugate fiber is prepared. This composite fiber is a core-sheath type composite fiber composed of a core component and a sheath component. As the core component, a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 30 to 70 mol% and a saponification degree of 95% or more is used. Here, the ethylene content is measured by the NMR method (deuterium displacement / DMSO solution). If the ethylene content is less than 30 mol%, the melt viscosity of the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer increases, and it becomes difficult to melt-spin and it is difficult to obtain a core component, which is not preferable. Conversely, when the ethylene content exceeds 70 mol%, the amount of saponified vinyl acetate, that is, vinyl alcohol, is relatively reduced, the amount of hydroxyl groups is reduced, the hydrophilicity is reduced, and the water absorption of the composite fiber is reduced. This is not preferred because the properties or dyeing properties are reduced. The degree of saponification was also measured by the NMR method (deuterium displacement / DMSO solution). If the saponification degree is less than 95%, the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer is liable to be thermally decomposed and becomes difficult to melt-spin, which is not preferred. As described above, the general properties of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer used in the present invention have a melting point of 150 ° C. or more and a melt index at 210 ° C. of 2 to 30. Here, the melting point is determined by the DSC method (under a N ₂ atmosphere, at a heating rate of 10 ° C.
Min). In addition, the melt index is measured according to ASTM-D-1238-65T (load 2160 g, 190 ° C.).

On the other hand, polyamide is used as a sheath component of the composite fiber. This polyamide can be used arbitrarily as long as it is conventionally known. For example, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon MXD6, a copolymer obtained by using monomers constituting these, or a copolymer of these Mixtures can be used. In particular, in the present invention, it is preferable to use nylon 6. This is nylon 6
Is the closest to the melting point of the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, and nylon 6 is excellent in thermal stability. The polyamide used preferably has a relative viscosity of 2.0 to 4.0 (measured at a concentration of 1 g / dl in 96% sulfuric acid as a solvent at a temperature of 25 ° C.).

The weight ratio between the core component and the sheath component is as follows: core component: sheath component = 1: 0.4 to 2.4. When the amount of the core component is less than the above range, ethylene having a high heat shrinkage force may be used.
Since the amount of the saponified vinyl acetate copolymer becomes small and it becomes impossible to impart a high shrinkage force to the conjugate fiber,
Not preferred. In addition, the amount of the sheath component (polyamide) having insufficient tension or waist becomes relatively large, and the tension or waist of the obtained fabric is lowered, which is not preferable. Conversely, if the amount of the sheath component is less than the above range, the core component having poor thermal stability is exposed on the surface of the conjugate fiber, and the thermal stability of the conjugate fiber is unfavorably deteriorated.

The conjugate fiber used in the present invention can be produced, for example, by the following method. That is, a predetermined saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer and a polyamide are prepared and spun by a conventionally known melt composite spinning apparatus, and the speed is adjusted to 1000 m / m.
Pick up at a speed of at least a minute. Then, the obtained filament is stretched at a stretching ratio of 2.0 times or more between a heating roller having a temperature of 40 to 90 ° C. and a roller heated to 120 ° C. or more lower than the melting point of the core component by 15 ° C. or more. Thus, the conjugate fiber used in the present invention can be obtained. The conjugate fiber has the same properties as the conventionally known polyamide fiber in dyeing characteristics and surface feel, and is superior in tension and stiffness and higher in heat shrinkage (boiling water shrinkage) and higher than the conventionally known polyamide fiber. It has a heat shrinkage stress.

A dough is prepared using the composite fiber as described above. For example, a woven fabric may be produced by weaving using a yarn made of a composite fiber, or the yarn may be knitted to form a knitted fabric. Further, composite fibers may be accumulated to form a nonwoven fabric. Further, a laminate of these woven fabrics or the like may be used as the fabric. In the present invention, it goes without saying that other fibers may be used in combination.

[0011] These doughs are heat treated at 40-180 ° C. This heat treatment causes the composite fibers to shrink, which in turn causes the fabric to shrink. Due to the shrinkage of this fabric,
The density of the fabric is increased, and the resulting fabric can be further provided with tension and stiffness. The temperature of the heat treatment is 40 to 180 ° C, but if it is a dry heat treatment, it is 120 to 180 ° C, preferably 140 to 1
60 ° C. In the case of hot water treatment, the temperature is 60 to 120 ° C, preferably 80 to 100 ° C. When the hot water treatment is employed, the treatment may be performed simultaneously with the scouring of the fabric using a surfactant or an alkali, or simultaneously with the dyeing described later. In the case of steam treatment, the temperature is 100 to 120 ° C, preferably 105 to 115 ° C. If the temperature of the heat treatment is higher than the above range, the conjugate fibers are significantly shrunk and the feeling of the obtained fabric is hardened, which is not preferable. Conversely, if the heat treatment temperature is lower than the above range, the conjugate fibers do not shrink sufficiently, the texture of the resulting fabric fluctuates, and it becomes difficult to impart tension or waist to the fabric, which is not preferable. The shrinkage of the conjugate fiber is preferably performed in the range of 5 to 30%, and the preferable degree of shrinkage is 15 to 25%. As a device used for the heat treatment, various conventionally known devices can be used.
For example, a conveyor-type heat setter, a pin tenter, a relaxer, a steam setter, an open soaper, a high-temperature steamer, a high-pressure steamer, a jet dyeing machine, and the like can be used. In this heat treatment, by controlling the shrinkage of the composite fiber, it is possible to flatten the surface of the obtained fabric or to make fine creasing-like fine wrinkles on the surface of the fabric.

[0012] The dough is dyed at a temperature of 120 ° C or lower. By this dyeing, the polyamide, which is the sheath component of the composite fiber, is mainly dyed, and a clear hue unique to the polyamide can be dyed. Dyeing temperature 12
If the temperature exceeds 0 ° C., there is a possibility that severe shrinkage may occur in the conjugate fiber, and the texture of the obtained fabric may be hardened.
Not preferred. In the present invention, especially the dyeing temperature is 95 ~
It is preferably 115 ° C. When the dyeing temperature is lower than 95 ° C., there is a tendency that the cloth is not sufficiently dyed. The scouring may be performed simultaneously with the dyeing, or the above-described heat treatment may be performed simultaneously with the dyeing. As a device used for dyeing, various conventionally known devices can be used. For example, a liquid jet dyeing machine, a Jigger dyeing machine, a high-pressure steamer, or the like can be used. In particular,
It is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine because a fabric having a good feeling can be easily obtained. This is also true for the heat treatment, and it is therefore preferable to use a jet dyeing machine also for the heat treatment.

As described above, the fabric according to the present invention can be obtained. Of course, after dyeing, a conventionally known finishing treatment may be performed. For example, after dyeing, a fixing treatment or a finishing agent combination treatment may be performed, followed by drying, and a final setting at about 150 ° C. to perform the finishing treatment.

[0014]

EXAMPLE A saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having an ethylene content of 44 mol%, a saponification degree of 98% and a melt index of 13.0 was used as a core component, and nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 2.60 was used as a sheath component. Composite spinning was performed according to the method. On this occasion,
The spinning temperature was 210 ° C. for the saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as the core component, and 260 ° C. for nylon 6 as the sheath component.
° C and the spinneret was set at 260 ° C. After the composite spinning, the filament was taken up at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min while being cooled by blowing air from a lateral direction, and the filament was once wound. Then, in a separate process, the first stage roller at room temperature and 50
Stretched 1.013 times between the second stage roller heated to ° C., and so that the total stretch ratio between the second stage roller and the third stage roller heated to 140 ° C. becomes 3.24 times It was drawn to obtain a 70-denier / 24-filament multifilament yarn composed of composite fibers. The weight ratio of the core component to the sheath component in this conjugate fiber was 1: 1 and the boiling water shrinkage was 19.8%.

Using the multifilament yarn comprising the composite fiber, a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 103 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 81 yarns / inch was woven. This plain woven fabric was subjected to hot water treatment (heat treatment) using a liquid jet dyeing machine. The hot water treatment was performed by immersing the plain woven fabric in hot water at a temperature of 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. In hot water, 1g of nonionic surfactant
/ L dissolved. Due to this heat treatment, the composite fiber shrinks, the warp density of the fabric is 124 yarns / inch, and the weft density is 97 yarns / inch.
It became inch. Subsequently, dyeing was carried out using a jet dyeing machine according to the following formulation. Note Acid Dye Sandrun Milling Blue N ・ BL (Sand) 2% owf Leveran NKD (Marubishi Yuka Co., Ltd., leveling agent) 2% owf 48% acetic acid 0.2cc / l Temperature 100 ° C Time 30 minutes

After dyeing, a fixing treatment was carried out by a conventional method, followed by drying. The fabric thus obtained has a warp density of 128.
And the weft density was 102 yarns / inch. Then, in order to further remove wrinkles generated during dyeing, use a pin tenter for 15 minutes.
The final set was performed at 0 ° C. for 20 seconds. The cloth after the final setting has a warp density of 124 yarns / inch and a weft density of 101 yarns / inch.
The width direction was 16.9% and the length direction was 19.8%. The surface of the cloth obtained as described above had a unique soft feel unique to nylon cloth. Also, this fabric had sufficient tension and waist. This is because a predetermined saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having tension and stiffness is used as the core component of the conjugate fiber, and the warp density and the weft density increase due to shrinkage of the fabric. Further, this fabric had a clear hue due to dyeing.

[0017]

The fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention comprises a composite fiber comprising a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer having certain physical properties as a core component and polyamide as a sheath component. Therefore, the surface of the fabric is composed of polyamide. Therefore, it has the same soft feeling as the polyamide fiber. Further, in the present invention, since the composite fiber in which the sheath component in the fabric is polyamide is dyed, the obtained fabric has a clear hue similar to the case of the polyamide fiber. Further, in the present invention, by using a composite fiber having a core component of a predetermined ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer saponified material having tension and stiffness, and by heat-treating the dough, the composite fiber is shrunk. By increasing the warp density and the weft density, it is possible to impart sufficient tension and stiffness to the obtained fabric. Therefore, the fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention has a soft touch, a clear hue, and a sufficient tension and waist. It can be used not only for clothing but also for other general clothing.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI D06P 3/82 D06P 3/82 F (56) References JP-A-4-327212 (JP, A) JP-A-4-370232 ( JP, A) JP-A-4-370231 (JP, A) JP-A-51-32874 (JP, A) JP-A-51-38523 (JP, A) JP-A-48-80820 (JP, A) JP-A-55-1379 (JP, A) JP-A-58-208436 (JP, A) JP-A-3-193916 (JP, A) JP-A-3-193982 (JP, A) JP-A-3-119178 (JP) , A) (58) Field surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06P 5/20 D01F 8/10 D01F 8/12 D03D 15/00 D06C 23/04 D06P 3/82

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. Degree of saponification at an ethylene content of 30 to 70 mol%.
A conjugate fiber comprising 95% or more of a saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer as a core component and a polyamide as a sheath component, wherein the weight ratio of the core component to the sheath component is such that the core component: the sheath component = 1. : A step of preparing a dough made of a conjugate fiber of 0.4 to 2.4, a step of heat-treating the dough at 40 to 180 ° C. to shrink the conjugate fiber, and a step of dyeing the dough at a temperature of 120 ° C. or less. And a method for producing a fabric.