JP2007031926A - Woven fabric of polyamide/polyester conjugate fiber and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric of a polyamide/polyester conjugate fiber having the touch of a polyamide fiber and the dimensional stability of a polyester fiber and provide a method for producing the fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric of a polyamide/polyester conjugate fiber is produced by using a spun yarn or a filament yarn at least partly containing a conjugate fiber of a core-sheath structure containing a polyamide polymer as the sheath component and a polyester polymer as the core component as the warp and/or weft, wherein the wash shrinkage of the woven fabric is ≤±2.5% in the direction of the spun yarn or filament yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a polyamide / polyester composite fiber fabric having a polyamide fiber touch with little dimensional change and a method for producing the same.

  Synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers are used in a wide range of fields in terms of excellent strength and easy care properties. In particular, polyamide-based fibers are favorably used for sports outerwear such as skis and snowboard wear, because transition sublimation does not occur in the strength, flexibility, and coating products.

  However, as a property of the polyamide-based fiber, dimensional stability is worse than that of the polyester-based fiber, and shrinkage after washing is a drawback.

  For example, it has been proposed to use a nylon / polyester core-sheath composite raw cotton to make a spun yarn, then to make a fabric, and to elute polyester as a core component in the dyeing process to give a lightweight fabric (for example, patents) Reference 1). However, the woven fabric focuses on achieving a light feeling and cannot give excellent dimensional stability.

  An agricultural sheet using a composite yarn made of polyvinyl alcohol as a core component and a thermoplastic polymer as a sheath component has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 2), which focuses on heat retention and dimensional stability. The dyeability has not been studied.

  In addition, many methods have been proposed in which the core of a filament having a modified polyester such as a sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid-modified polyester as a core and a polyamide as a sheath is dyed with a cationic dye (for example, from Patent Document 3). 6). However, these are mainly aimed at improving the color developability and fastness, and cannot provide excellent dimensional stability.

  Further, a composite woven or knitted fabric including a yarn made of a composite fiber and a protein fiber in which polyester and polyamide are arranged in a core-sheath structure or a side-by-side structure has been proposed (see Patent Document 7). In the invention, it is proposed to suppress washing shrinkage mainly by blending with wool, but the main focus is on the method for producing spun yarn, and it is not possible to impart excellent washing shrinkage.

  Moreover, the nonwoven fabric containing the composite fiber which mainly has basic dye dyeable polyester and a nylon component is proposed (refer patent document 8). The object of the present invention is to obtain a nylon texture and dimensional stability due to the polyester component. The fabric is not described, and there is no description on a production method for obtaining the properties as a fabric.

  Conventional filaments with a core-sheath structure are prone to warp and horizontal steps in woven fabrics and horizontal steps in knitted fabrics due to deformation of the fiber cross-section during the weaving and dyeing processes, and obtain good quality when used alone. It was difficult. In the non-woven fabric, short fibers are not evenly arranged in the same direction, and excessive stress is not applied in the manufacturing process, so that the above-mentioned problem does not manifest.

Polyamide fibers also have the disadvantages of poor pleat retention because they have lower heat setability than polyester fibers and cause dimensional changes due to hygroscopicity. For this reason, since the crease of a shirt place and a pants place is hard to be attached and it is hard to hold | maintain, the use in clothing is limited and it is often used not for a formal use but for a casual use and a sports use.
JP 2003-301351 A JP 2001-352841 A JP H03-193982 JP H07-300724 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. H09-250029 JP 2000-80575 A Japanese Patent No. 2752367 JP H07-279019 A

  Therefore, the present invention provides a polyamide / polyester composite that has a unique texture that is excellent in dimensional stability and has a touch and moist feeling that the polyamide fiber has, which could not be obtained by the conventional technology as described above. It aims at providing a textile fabric and its manufacturing method.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention employs the following configuration. That is,
(1) In a woven fabric in which a spun yarn using at least part of a composite fiber having a core-sheath structure in which a sheath component is a polyamide polymer and a core component is a polyester polymer is used for warp yarn and / or weft yarn. A polyamide / polyester composite fiber fabric having a washing shrinkage of ± 2.5% or less in the direction in which the yarn is used.

  (2) The polyamide / polyester composite fiber fabric according to (1) above, wherein the composite ratio (% by weight) of the core component / sheath component of the composite fiber is in the range of 5/95 to 80/20.

  (3) The polyamide / polyester composite fiber woven fabric according to 1 or 2 above, wherein the pleat property in the direction of bending the spun yarn is an initial grade 4 or higher and a grade 3 or higher after washing.

  (4) Textile dyeing process using spun yarn using at least part of a composite fiber having a core-sheath structure in which a sheath component is a polyamide polymer and a core component is a polyester polymer, as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn The method for producing a polyamide / polyester composite fiber woven fabric characterized by heat-treating in air or in an inert gas at 150 to 190 ° C. for 20 to 360 seconds before dyeing.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the textile fabric which had the softness of the polyamide-type fiber and the dimensional stability of the polyester-type fiber which was not obtained with the prior art can be provided.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

  The core-sheath composite fiber yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is a core-sheath composite fiber yarn in which the sheath component is composed of a polyamide-based polymer and the core component is composed of a polyester-based polymer. This is a spun yarn using at least a part of the short fiber raw cotton.

  The polyamide polymer constituting the sheath is preferably a polyamide made of polyhexamethylenadipamide (nylon 66) or poly ε-capramide (nylon 6), but sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, paraxyleneformamide, etc. Polyamides having these components as constituent components or copolymerized polyamides thereof may be used.

  The polyester polymer constituting the core may be polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, blended with chips or a molten polymer, or a copolyester having these as a main component. .

  The polyester polymer may be, for example, a sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid-modified polyester, and a modified polyester in which a compound having a sulfonic group is contained in a part of the chain or terminal of the polyester may be used. More specifically, polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, or a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing a sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid or a salt thereof with a copolyester having these as a main component may be used. It is preferable.

  A typical example of the sulfonated aromatic dicarboxylic acid is dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate, which can be used as a preferable one in the present invention. The amount of copolymerization is preferably in the range of 3.0 mol to 10 mol% relative to terephthalic acid. If the amount of copolymerization is too low, the desired effect may not be sufficiently obtained.On the other hand, if the amount is too large, the crystal structure of the modified polyester may be disturbed, leading to a significant decrease in mechanical properties. Absent.

  The composite ratio (% by weight) of the sheath portion and the core portion is important in terms of dimensional stability, pleatability, and texture. The core / sheath composite ratio is preferably in the range of core: sheath = 5: 95 to 80:20. More preferably, it is in the range of core: sheath = 25: 75-50: 50.

  The core / sheath composite ratio affects the passability of the spinning, weaving, and dyeing processes, and when the core ratio is 80% or more, the ratio of the sheath decreases, and there is a possibility that sheath cracking may occur in the process. On the other hand, if the core component is 5% or less, the influence of the polyamide polymer as the sheath component becomes strong, and the dimensional stability and pleatability targeted by the present invention cannot be obtained.

  The fiber cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber is not particularly limited, but a concentric core-sheath composite form is typical and preferable in production, but the core-sheath is relatively eccentric, or the whole is triangular. Alternatively, it may be a polygonal shape such as a rectangular shape or an elliptical shape. Further, the core may be a single core instead of a single core, and it is important that the core component is completely surrounded by the sheath component, and the core component is exposed to the outside. In particular, the core component and the sheath component may be peeled off in the dyeing process, which is not preferable.

  The fiber form of the core-sheath composite yarn used in the present invention is preferably a short fiber. When it is in the form of a filament, the core-sheath structure is decentered due to the deformation of the fiber especially in the weaving process, and as a result, warps and weirs tend to occur.

  When the fiber form is a short fiber, it is a spun yarn. However, when the spun yarn is used, the use of the above-mentioned raw cotton at 100% sufficiently provides the shape stability characteristic that is the original aim of the present invention. Although it is more effective in exhibiting, it may be blended with raw cotton such as natural fiber, regenerated fiber, and other synthetic fiber according to the purpose. In that case, in order to maintain shape stability, it is preferable to use 50% by weight or more of the short fiber of the present invention.

  In the present invention, a fabric using a polyamide / polyester spun yarn is not limited to 100% of the spun yarn, and is a fine spinning cross-twisted (so-called long / short composite spun yarn) product with a filament yarn of another material. In any case, it is possible to create a characteristic polyamide / polyester spun yarn woven product that cannot be obtained by the prior art.

  In the present invention, a woven fabric is prepared using the spun yarn. From the viewpoint of fabric design, the spun yarn may be used for warp and weft yarns, or may be used for warp yarns or weft yarns only. There are no particular restrictions on the fibers to be combined, but it is preferable to use a combination that does not cause contamination by the dyeing method.

  The weaving process may be performed in the same process as that for a normal spun yarn fabric. The weaving loom that can be used is not particularly limited, and can sufficiently cope with innovative looms such as an air jet loom, a water jet loom, and a rapier loom.

  The woven fabric obtained by the present invention is first subjected to a scouring process in order to remove glue / oil agent and dirt adhering to the fibers. The scouring step is performed using a known apparatus such as an open soaper, softer, wins or the like, but when used as a spun yarn, it is preferable to use a softer in order to give sufficient swelling.

  Next, before dyeing as an intermediate set, it is important to heat-treat at 150 to 190 ° C. for 20 to 360 seconds in air or in an inert gas using a known device such as a tenter. Excessive shrinkage at the time of dyeing and changes in the texture of the fabric can be suppressed. If the temperature is lower than 150 ° C., the amount of heat applied to the fiber is low, and sufficient dyeability cannot be provided. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 190 ° C., excessive shrinkage occurs, and the texture becomes extremely hard. Further, if the heat treatment time is less than 20 seconds, the fibers are not sufficiently heated and cannot be heat set, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the heat treatment time exceeds 360 seconds, productivity is lowered, which is not preferable. Preferable temperature and time are 170 to 185 ° C. and 30 to 60 seconds.

  As described in the Background section, polyester fiber is heat-fixed when it is dry-heat set, so it has good dimensional stability, but polyamide fiber has low setability and is hygroscopic. Stability is inferior. In the present invention, the polyester of the core component is heat-set under the above-described conditions, so that the washing shrinkage in the direction using the spun yarn or filament yarn is ± 2.5% or less, that is, −2.5 to +2.5. Good dimensional stability within the% range can be achieved. This washing shrinkage rate is preferably ± 1.5% or less.

  Next, the dyeing process is performed. The dyeing conditions differ depending on whether the polyester as the core is dyed or the polyamide as the sheath is dyed.

  However, with respect to the dye, it is preferable to dye with a cationic dye when dyeing an acid dye, a polyester polymer with a core, or a cationic dyeable polyester when dyeing a sheath polyamide polymer. When a polyester dyed with a disperse dye such as polyester is used for the core, soaping is important because it may contaminate the polyamide polymer of the sheath and deteriorate the fastness.

  Then, using the same equipment as the intermediate set, finish setting is performed. What is necessary is just to perform a finishing set in the temperature range of 140 to 170 degreeC. Resin processing may be performed as necessary, and a known resin can be applied.

  By the processing method, a fabric having pleatability as well as dimensional stability can be obtained. It is preferable that the pleat retention is at least an initial grade 4 or higher and a grade 3 or higher after washing.

  The method for applying pleats to the fabric is not particularly limited, but the spun yarn of the present invention uses a thermoplastic resin and can be usually performed by a press. The pressing conditions vary depending on the composite ratio of the core-sheath raw cotton used in the present invention, and when the core component is less than 50%, the pressing temperature is preferably 110 to 140 ° C, and when it is 50% or more, it is preferably set to 100 to 120 ° C. Preferable pleat characteristics can be achieved by appropriately adjusting the pressing pressure and pressing time to obtain the desired pleat retention.

  In order to improve the retainability, permanent press processing or lint track processing using resin processing together is more preferable.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. The evaluation methods in the examples are as follows.
[Washing shrinkage (%)]
A 40 cm × 40 cm fabric was marked (20 cm × 20 cm) inside the fabric based on JIS L1042. Further, based on JIS L1060 (Test method for pleatability of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics) C method, washing is performed by a stirring type washing machine and tumble drying at 60 to 70 ° C., and after the washing is repeated 10 times, the spun yarn or The distance L1 between markings in the direction using the filament yarn was measured, and the ratio of the contracted length to the distance L0 between markings before washing was determined in%.

Washing shrinkage rate (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100
[Pleated retention (grade)]
The press method was carried out using a JUKI permanent press (JAK-754) under the following conditions.

Press temperature 140 ° C. (Example 1, Comparative Example 1)
120 ° C. (Example 2)
Press pressure 8kPa
Press time Steam 5 seconds
Baking 10 seconds
Vacuum 5 seconds The washing method conforms to the test method specified in the test method (1) Washing method (water washing) by JIS L0217.

    The test method conforms to JIS L1060 C method (appearance determination method).

[Example 1]
Polyester copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate is used for the core component, nylon 66 is used for the sheath component, and the core-sheath composite ratio (% by weight) is set to core: sheath = 30: 70. After spinning at a spinning speed of 1300 m / min, normal stretching is performed at 3.0 times, and after crimping, the composite is composed of concentric composite fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex and a fiber length of 38 mm Fiber raw cotton was obtained. Subsequently, 100% of the composite fiber raw cotton is used to make 0.76 count roving by a normal spinning method, and the fine spinning draft is about 21 times, the number of twists is 6.33 t / cm (16.1 t / inch), A composite spun yarn of cotton count 16s was produced. Using this spun yarn for warp and weft, weaving density of 39.8 yarns / cm (101 yarns / inch) x width of 32.3 yarns / cm (82 yarns / inch), weaving texture Weaving and weaving in an air jet loom.
The raw machine thus obtained was scoured and relaxed in the dyeing process, and then heat treated in air at 180 ° C. for 2 minutes using a tenter to obtain an intermediate set. Thereafter, normal nylon dyeing was performed at 120 ° C. for 45 minutes, and then a heat treatment was performed again at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes using a tenter to obtain a finished set. The density after finishing was 45.3 pieces / cm (115 pieces / inch) x width 37.0 pieces / cm (94 pieces / inch). The resulting fabric was a good product with a nylon texture.

[Example 2]
Example 1 was repeated except that the core component was polyester copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and the sheath component was nylon 66 with a core-sheath composite ratio (wt%) of 50:50. Thus, a fabric was prepared by spinning, weaving, dyeing process and conditions. The resulting woven fabric was a slightly hard woven fabric because of the higher proportion of polyester as the core component than the woven fabric of Example 1, but it was still a good product with a nylon texture.

[Example 3]
In the same fabric as in Example 2, only dyeing was performed using a cationic dye to dye the core component, and dyeing was performed at 120 ° C. for 45 minutes. As in Example 2, the resulting woven fabric was a slightly hard woven fabric because the polyester ratio of the core component was higher than that of Example 1, but it was still a good product with a nylon texture.

[Comparative Example 1]
Nylon 66 is 100%, ie, not core / sheath composite, spun at a spinning speed of 1300 m / min, then stretched normally at 3.0 times, cut after crimping, and single fiber fineness of 1.7 dte × A raw cotton having a fiber length of 38 mm was obtained. Spinning, weaving process and conditions were set in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a raw machine.

In the dyeing process, the raw machine was processed under normal nylon dyeing conditions after scouring and relaxing. The density after finishing was 45.3 pieces / cm (115 pieces / inch) × 37.4 pieces / cm (95 pieces / inch).
The obtained woven fabric was a good product having a nylon texture, but the dimensional stability was very poor.

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the washing shrinkage rate of the above-mentioned four spun yarn fabrics.

Claims (4)

The above spun yarn is used in a woven fabric in which a spun yarn using at least part of a composite fiber having a core-sheath structure composed of a polyamide polymer as a sheath component and a polyester polymer as a core component is used as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn. A polyamide / polyester composite fiber woven fabric characterized by having a washing shrinkage of ± 2.5% or less. 2. The polyamide / polyester composite fiber according to claim 1, wherein the composite ratio (weight%) of the core component / sheath component of the composite fiber raw cotton constituting the spun yarn is in the range of 5/95 to 80/20. fabric. 3. The polyamide / polyester composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, wherein a pleat property in a direction in which the spun yarn is bent is at least an initial fourth grade and a third grade after washing. Dyeing in the textile dyeing process using warp yarn and / or weft yarn using at least a part of a composite fiber with a core-sheath structure composed of a polyamide polymer as the sheath component and a polyester polymer as the core component. A process for producing a polyamide / polyester composite fiber fabric, characterized in that heat treatment is performed in air or in an inert gas at 150 to 190 ° C. for 20 to 360 seconds before performing the step.