JPH05163631A - Stretchable woven and knitted fabric having surface pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain stretchable woven and knitted fabric having a pattern by press processing on the surface as well as a characteristic of large stretchability. CONSTITUTION:The objective woven and knitted fabric is obtained by imparting irregular pattern and/or gloss-differentiated pattern by press processing to the surface of woven and knitted fabric in which an elastic yarn consisting of a block polyester containing, as a soft segment, a polyester each containing phthalic acids as main acid components and an aliphatic diol having 5-12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups as a main diol component and having <=50 deg.C melting point and containing a polybutylene-based polyester as a hard segment is mixed with a polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber and in the fabric, the extensibility in 1.5kg/5cm load in at least one direction of warp or weft of the woven and knitted fabric is 20-200%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a surface pattern, and more particularly to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a property of great stretchability while having a pattern by pressing on the surface.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, the application of an uneven pattern by pressing is known as embossing, and in the old days, a cotton cloth or a cloth made of a rayon cloth impregnated with a thermosetting resin is subjected to pressing to give an uneven pattern. It was carried out by a method such as a method of pressing a cloth using a thermoplastic fiber. In the pressing process, a high temperature engraved mold roll and a soft roll are set to a high pressure, and a high pressure is passed between them to perform patterning, and the pattern of the engraved roll is transferred to the surface of the fabric, and at the same time, gloss is imparted.

However, the conventional method has a drawback in that the elasticity is erased in the pattern portion because a high heat setting is involved in the pressing process. On the other hand, as the stretchable woven or knitted fabric, a mixture of polyurethane-based elastic yarns has been conventionally used, and a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester processed yarn is rather inferior in stretchability but easy to manufacture. It has been widely used.

However, in a woven or knitted product in which polyurethane-based elastic yarns are mixed, the polyurethane elastic yarns have high elasticity even when subjected to pressing, and since they themselves do not have heat-setting property, uneven portions are not formed. It has the drawback that it disappears with the expansion and contraction of the cloth, or the outline of the pattern becomes blurred,
After all, the pressing process could not be performed on the woven or knitted fabric in which the polyurethane elastic yarn was mixed. In addition, a woven or knitted product made of polyester processed yarn is subjected to pressure processing, and as a result of processing at high temperature and high pressure, the elasticity of the pattern part decreases due to the heat setting effect, and the physical properties of the elastic woven fabric are impaired. It was not used as a textile.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable woven or knitted fabric which has the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art and which has a pattern on the surface by pressing and has a large stretchability. Especially.

[0006]

According to the present invention, a phthalic acid is a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups is a main diol component.
A woven or knitted fabric in which 2 to 30% by weight of an elastic yarn made of block polyester having the following polyester as a soft segment and a polybutylene-based polyester as a hard segment is mixed with 98 to 70% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber, The surface of the woven or knitted material has a concavo-convex pattern by pressing and / or a gloss difference pattern,
A stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a surface pattern is characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric has stretchability such that the elongation rate is 20 to 200% when a load of at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction is 1.5 kg / 5 cm. Provided.

The block polyester of the present invention contains, as a soft segment, a polyester having a phthalic acid as a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups as a main diol component and having a melting point of 50 ° C. or less. Phthalic acid here means phthalic acid, isophthalic acid,
Terephthalic acid, but especially the polyester obtained
Isophthalic acid is often used because it is an amorphous polymer or a polymer having a melting point of 50 ° C. or lower, and due to the problem of scattering during production. On the other hand, as the diol component,
Examples include linear diols such as 1,6-hexanediol and 1,10-decanediol, and branched diols such as 3-methyl-1,5 pentanediol and 2-methyl-1,8-octanediol. The soft segment constituting the block polyester of the present invention has such acid and diol components as main constituent components, but may be a copolymer of 40 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less of other components. As the copolymerization component in this case, there are other dicarboxylic acids and diols. Copolymerization of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an ether glycol such as polyoxytetramethylene glycol for the purpose of improving the characteristics at a low temperature is one preferable measure.

On the other hand, the polybutylene terephthalate polyester used as the hard segment refers to polybutylene terephthalate or its copolymer, and the copolymerization ratio is 30 mol% or less, preferably 20 mol% or less. However, since this copolymerization ratio often occurs during the blocking reaction, the melting point of the finally obtained block polyester is 170 ° C. or higher, preferably 180 ° C. or higher.

The block polyester of the present invention is a copolymer that allows the polyester to be dyed with a cationic dye or an acid dye on either or both of the soft segment and the hard segment, for example, a sulfoisophthalic acid compound, a tertiary compound. It is preferable that an amine, a quaternary ammonium, a quaternary phosphonium compound, or the like is copolymerized or blended.

It is desired that the block polyester has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.9 or more. This is because the strength of the fiber becomes low.

Such a block polyester is generally composed of a polyester which constitutes a soft segment,
A method of forming an appropriate block by melt-mixing and reacting with a polyester constituting a hard segment is used, but the method is not particularly limited to this method.

In the present invention, the block polyester is used as a fiber, and the production method is generally a melt spinning method. The spinning method is not particularly limited, and the molten polyester may be simply taken out from the spinneret, cooled and solidified, and then wound. Stretching if necessary,
Heat treatment is also possible, but it depends on the application. As the oil agent, for example, a silicone-based material is used, but it is not necessary to be particular about this.

In the present invention, the elastic yarn made of the block polyester may be used as it is as a bare yarn,
It may be used as a core-sheath composite yarn coated with polyester fibers or the like. A knitted material is suitable for use as a bare yarn, and can be used for both warp knitting and weft knitting. In order to coat the elastic yarn, a method of covering with a polyester fiber or the like using a hollow spindle, a method of aligning and twisting the elastic yarn and the polyester fiber and the like and coating with the respective elongation differences, a spinning machine It is possible to use a method using a core spun yarn in which the elastic yarn is covered with a polyester fiber or the like to have a core-sheath structure.

The elastic yarn composed of the block polyester can be used in the range of 2 to 30% by weight based on the weight of the whole woven or knitted material.
It is preferably used within the range of 15 to 15% by weight, and in the case of knitted fabric, it is preferably used within the range of 15 to 30% by weight.

On the other hand, as the polyethylene terephthalate type polyester fibers used in the present invention, cationic polyester dyeable polyester fibers and the like can be used in addition to regular polyester fibers. The mixing ratio of the polyester terephthalate-based polyester fiber used is in the range of 98 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the woven or knitted fabric.

As the woven or knitted fabric used in the present invention, taffeta or satin woven fabric is preferably used in the case of a woven fabric, and woven or knitted fabric having a knitted fabric is used.

The woven and knitted fabric thus obtained has a large elasticity due to the elastic yarn used for it, but the range of the elongation rate at a load of 1.5 kg / 5 cm is 30 to 250%.
Those in the range of are preferably used.

Next, the woven or knitted product is given an uneven pattern or a gloss difference pattern by pressing. The pressing process may be a method generally known as embossing, engraving various patterns on the surface of a metal roll having a heating device, press the heated metal roll against a soft roll at high pressure,
By passing the woven or knitted fabric between the metal roll and the soft roll, the pattern of the engraving roll is transferred to the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and at the same time, gloss is imparted. The temperature of the metal roll produced by the pressing is in the range of 150 to 200 ° C., and the pressing pressure is in the range of linear pressure of 2 to 40 ton / m. The pattern imparted by the pressing process is not limited to the concavo-convex pattern obtained by the conventional embossing process, but may be a pattern in which only the change in gloss is imparted to the surface of the woven or knitted product by the pressing.

Even after performing such a pressing process,
The stretchability of the woven or knitted material hardly decreases, and the stretched rate (stretching rate at a load of 1.5 kg / 5 cm) in at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction is 20 to 200.
%have.

The elongation rate is determined as follows.

In the case of a woven fabric, two 5.5 cm × 20 cm test pieces were sampled in each of the warp and weft directions, and roughly the same number of threads were removed from both sides of the width to give a width of 5.0 cm, and a test length of 10 cm in the center. Mark exactly where.

In the case of a knitted fabric, two test pieces each having a width of 5.0 cm and a length of 20 cm are sampled in each direction of the wale and the course, and a test length of 10 cm is accurately marked at the center.

Using a tensile tester equipped with an automatic recorder, the test piece was applied with an initial load of 20 g so that the interval between the grips was 10 cm, and the test piece was stretched to a low load of 1.5 kg at a pulling speed of 30 cm / min. Immediately thereafter, the sample is returned to the original position at the same speed, a load-elongation curve is drawn, and the elongation rate (elongation at a load of 1.5 kg) is read from the load-elongation curve.

[0024]

As described above, the polyurethane elastic yarn which has been widely used as the elastic yarn is not suitable for the thermal pressing process used in the present invention. Polyester ester-based elastic yarns are also known, but these yarns do not show the improvement in thermal properties to the left as compared with polyurethane elastic yarns, and it has been possible to obtain a practical stretchable fabric. Not in.

In this respect, in the present invention, as the elastomer constituting the elastic yarn, phthalic acids are the main acid component as the soft segment and the aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between the hydroxyl groups is the main diol component, and the melting point is 50 ° C. It has been found that, when a polyester ester-based polymer into which the following polyester is introduced is adopted, it can withstand heat treatment during pressing and can substantially maintain stretchability.

[0026]

[Effect] The stretchable woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a high stretchability in spite of having an uneven pattern and / or a gloss difference pattern provided by pressing on the surface thereof. is there.

Moreover, the contours or the gloss difference patterns do not lose their contours even when stretchability is repeatedly imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, and the contours do not collapse even after repeated washing. It is highly durable. In the conventional woven and knitted fabric, the stretchability of the portion provided with the pattern by pressing was reduced, but in the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, the pattern portion hardly deteriorates in stretchability and retains the performance as a stretchable woven or knitted fabric. It is what you are doing.

Further, the block copolymer used in the present invention is, by itself, compared with the conventionally known spandex and the elastic yarn using the polyether / ester block copolymer previously proposed by the present inventors, It has good light resistance and chlorine resistance. Further, it is recognized that the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has very good light resistance even after dry cleaning,
This is also one of the effects of the present invention.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples.
In this example, "part" means "part by weight".

[0030]

Example 1 70 parts of dimethyl isophthalate, 12 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 40 parts of decanedicarboxylic acid and 150 parts of hexamethylene glycol are heated together with 0.17 part of dibutyltin diacetate to remove by-produced methanol and water. did. Further, after increasing the degree of polymerization by a reaction under reduced pressure, 52 parts of polybutylene terephthalate obtained by separately carrying out a polymerization reaction was added. The mixture was reacted at 250 ° C. under reduced pressure, and after 15 minutes, 0.06 of phenylphosphonic acid was added. After discharging and cooling, the mixture was cut into chips. This polyester has an intrinsic viscosity of 1.10 and a melting point of 19
It was 2 ° C.

After drying the chips at 140 ° C. under a nitrogen stream, a melt spinning apparatus was used to remove 25 from the spinneret of 1 hole.
It was discharged at 0 ° C. and wound up at 400 m / min. The yarn had an elongation of 40 de and a strength of 580% of 0.85 g / de.

The elastic yarn and polyester filament 50 de /
A warp knitting machine having a half structure was knitted with a 28 gauge warp knitting machine using 24 fil. After the warp knit was finished by a usual finishing process, the obtained warp knit was subjected to a polka dot pattern pressing with a depth of 1 mm by an embossing machine having a pair of a metal roller and a rubber roller. The temperature of the metal roller used in the pressing process was 180 ° C. and the roller linear pressure was 3 ton / m. The obtained knitted fabric had an elongation rate in the warp direction of 78% and had a polka dot pattern on the surface, but the elongation rate of the knitted fabric after pressing was 75%, which was The reduction rate was small as compared with the elongation, and the polka dot pattern did not disappear even if stretchability was repeatedly imparted, and the contour was clear. In addition, the pattern imparted to this knitted fabric was able to withstand repeated washing, and the desired stretchable knitted fabric was obtained.

As Comparative Example 1, a urethane-based elastic yarn 40 de / 4 fil was used as the elastic yarn, and a commercially available nylon filament yarn 40 de / 12 fil was used to prepare a warp knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric is 84%
However, the elongation rate after the press processing of the same polka dot pattern as in Example 1 was 74%, which was a large decrease, and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 had a long durability of the pattern. The property was poor, and the contour of the pattern was broken and became unclear especially by repeated washing, and the durability of the pattern was poor.

[0034]

[Example 2] A yarn similar to the elastic yarn used in Example 1 was used as a core yarn, and a polyester continuous fiber yarn 50 de / 24 was used as a sheath yarn.
A sheath yarn is coated around the core yarn with a fil using a covering machine using a twist of 1,200 T / m.
A covering thread was obtained. A taffeta was woven with a plain weave design using the covering yarn as a weft and polyester long fibers 50 de / 24fil as a warp. The fabric obtained by passing the taffeta fabric through a normal finishing process has a warp density of 84 yarns / c.
m, weft density of 40 yarns / cm and elongation in the warp direction is 2
The elongation was 3% and the elongation in the weft direction was 46%. The resulting woven fabric was pressed with a satin pattern using an embossing machine having a pair of a metal roller and a rubber roller. The temperature of the metal roller used in the pressing process was 170 ° C., and the roller linear pressure was 30 to.
n / m.

The elongation of the woven fabric after pressing is 21 in the warp direction.
%, The elongation rate in the weft direction was 41%, which was a smaller reduction rate than the elongation rate of the unprocessed fabric, and the satin pattern did not disappear even if stretchability was repeatedly given. The contour was also clear. In addition, the satin pattern imparted to this woven fabric was able to withstand repeated washing, and the desired stretchable woven fabric was obtained.

As Comparative Example 2, a urethane type elastic thread 40 de / 4 fil was used as the elastic thread and a commercially available nylon filament thread 40 de / 12 fil was used to prepare a fabric similar to that of Example 2. The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 86 yarns / cm and a weft yarn density of 42 yarns / cm, and had a warp direction elongation rate of 27% and a weft direction elongation rate of 40%. The elongation rate after pressing the satin pattern similar to that in Example 2 was 18% in the warp direction and 33% in the weft direction, and the reduction rate was large. Furthermore, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 had a durability of the pattern. The pattern was poor, and the pattern was largely disappeared by repeated washing, and the pattern had almost no durability.

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Reference number within the agency FI Technical display location // D01F 6/62 302 Z 7199-3B 6/84 301 H 7199-3B D02G 3/32 (72) Inventor Genji Nakayama 3-4-1, Omihara, Ibaraki, Osaka Prefecture Teijin Limited Osaka Research Center

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester having a phthalic acid as a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups as a main diol component and having a melting point of 50 ° C. or less is used as a soft segment and a polybutylene-based polyester is used as a hard segment. Elastic yarn 2 made of block polyester
A woven or knitted material in which 30% by weight and 98 to 70% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber are mixed, and the surface of the woven or knitted material has an uneven pattern due to pressing, and /
Or a surface having a gloss difference pattern, and the woven or knitted fabric has elasticity such that the elongation rate is 20 to 200% when a load of at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction is 1.5 kg / 5 cm. Stretchable woven or knitted fabric with a pattern.