JP2948940B2 - Stretch woven and knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having a drape property, a soft and dry feel, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, polyurethane elastic yarns have been commonly used as elastic yarns in order to impart high elasticity to woven or knitted fabrics. The fibers commonly used as the polyurethane elastic yarn were mainly polyamide fibers (mainly nylon 6). Polyamide fiber has a drawback that it has a strong slimy feeling on the hand. In addition, although polyurethane elastic yarn is excellent in elasticity, it is a yarn with many defects on the feeling such as lacking drape property,
Stretchable woven or knitted fabrics comprising polyurethane elastic yarns and polyamide fibers also have these disadvantages. In this respect, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-8
Japanese Patent Publication No. 868 proposes that the woven or knitted fabric composed of the polyether / polyester elastic yarn and the polyester fiber is reduced in alkali to improve the feeling such as repellency and drape. As disclosed in this publication, there has hitherto not been a fabric having an alkali-treated polyurethane elastic yarn. This is because alkali weight reduction is a common means of improving the feeling of polyester fibers, but it is virtually impossible to share with polyester fibers from the viewpoint of hot water resistance of polyurethane elastic yarn, and the need for alkali weight loss does not arise. This is because the polyurethane elastic yarn has poor alkali resistance.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has a drape property, a soft and dry feeling by reducing the weight of a stretchable woven or knitted fabric composed of polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester fiber under specific conditions. An object is to provide a stretchable woven or knitted fabric.

[0004]

A solution to A1 The invention is a stretchable woven or knitted fabric that is caustic, and polyester fibers as a main, lower
The structural unit (A) and / or the following structural unit (B) are required
A stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising an elastic yarn made of polyurethane and dyed with a disperse dye. Further, the present invention mainly comprises a polyester fiber and the following structural unit (A) and / or the following structural unit
A stretchable woven or knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn composed of a polyurethane having (B) as an essential component is treated with an alkali weight-decreasing agent having a concentration of 2 to 2.
10%, processing temperature 40 to 120 ° C, processing time 1 to 12
By treating for 0 minutes, 5% by weight of polyester fiber
This is a method for producing a stretchable woven or knitted fabric which has been reduced in weight and further dyed with a disperse dye and reduced in alkali.

First, the polyurethane elastic yarn used in the present invention will be described. The polyurethane elastic yarn referred to in the present invention,
It has a urethane bond and the elongation at room temperature is 200% or more, and the instantaneous elastic recovery at 100% elongation is 80%.
This is the thread described above. This polyurethane elastic yarn is required to have alkali resistance because it is used in common with polyester fiber and subjected to an alkali treatment (weight reduction). Specifically, for improving the feeling of ordinary polyester fibers, 95 g of NaOH 30 g / l at 95 ° C. which is a sufficient alkali treatment condition is used.
It is necessary that the strength retention after immersion in the solution for 60 minutes, washing with water and drying is 80% or more. If it is less than 80%, stable elasticity cannot be obtained after weight reduction processing and dyeing finishing processing. The thickness of the elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but is desirably 10 to 400 dr for clothing use. 10dr
If it is less than 400dr, the stretching power is insufficient, and if it exceeds 400dr, the fabric becomes too thick or the power is too strong. In order to prevent the dough from becoming hard, a multifilament is preferable.

The elastic yarn having alkali resistance used in the present invention is obtained, for example, by spinning a polyester-based polyurethane having the following structural unit (A) as an essential component and a polycarbonate-based polyurethane having the following structural unit (B) as an essential component. Can be.

[0007]

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The polymer diol used for the polymerization of the polyurethane constituting the elastic yarn used in the present invention has the above structural formula (A) or (B) as a repeating unit, and has a number average molecular weight of 1,000 to 3,500. preferable. In the above structural unit, R ↑ 1 is -CH ↓ 2-CH ↓ 2-C
H (CH ↓ 3) -CH ↓ 2-CH ↓ 2- or -CH ↓ 2-CH
(CH ↓ 3)-(CH ↓ 2) ↓ 6- Compounds that give R ↑ 1 in the above structural units include 3-methyl-1,
5-pentanediol (MPD) or 2-methyl-1,8-
Octanediol (MOD). Examples of R @ 2 in the above structural unit include divalent organic groups such as aromatic, aliphatic and alicyclic groups. Examples of the compound giving R ↑ 2 include dicarboxylic acids, and among them, aliphatic or aromatic dicarboxylic acids having 6 to 12 carbon atoms are preferable. Specific examples include adipic acid, azelaic acid, and sebacic acid.

The polyester diol and the polycarbonate diol used in the present invention can be produced by a conventionally known method. In production, MPD and MOD may have carbon atoms of 6 to 1 such as 1,6-hexanediol, 1,9-nonanediol (ND), and 1,10-decanediol as required.
A diol that gives 0 linear alkylene group may be mixed.

Suitable organic diisocyanates for use in the present invention include aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of 500 or less, which are known in the art. '-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI). As the chain extender used in the present invention, a chain extender commonly used in the polyurethane industry, that is, a low-molecular compound having a molecular weight of 400 or less and containing at least two hydrogen atoms capable of reacting with isocyanate, for example, 1,4- Butanediol (BD) and 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzene.

Polyurethane is generally obtained by polymerizing a polymer diol, an organic diisocyanate and a chain extender. The structure of the polyurethane is as follows: (a) Two hydrogen atoms in hydroxyl groups at both ends of the molecule are removed from the polymer diol. Divalent structural unit (soft segment), (b) derived from organic diisocyanate

[0012]

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(C) a low molecular weight compound (chain extender) comprising a divalent structural unit in which two hydrogen atoms capable of reacting with an isocyanate of a molecule are removed. Here, the structural unit of (a) is bonded to the structural unit of (b) by forming a urethane bond, and a part of the structural unit of (b) is linked to another structural unit of (b). It is considered that an alohanate bond may be formed. Needless to say, the polyurethane elastic yarn used in the present invention obtained from these polyurethanes can be dyed at a high temperature and a high pressure of 110 ° C. or higher, which is necessary for polyester dyeing.

Next, the polyester fiber used in the present invention will be described. The use of the polyester fiber in the present invention has a dry feel compared to the polyamide fiber, and a softer and dry feel can be obtained by reducing the alkali commonly used in the processing of the polyester fiber (woven or knitted fabric). It depends. As polyester fiber,
For example, a product made of polyethylene terephthalate and obtained by a known polymerization method may be mentioned, and may contain a matting agent or an electrostatic agent which is generally used as an additive. Other components may be copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. In addition, other fibers may be mixed with the polyester fiber (for example, a mixed yarn of nylon and cotton) or a mixed fiber of another polymer (for example, nylon and the like) as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. Split yarn). Further, the present invention is not limited to the production method, and a drawn polyester yarn, a directly drawn spun yarn, or a false twisted yarn thereof can be used. At this time, as described in JP-B-59-24233, a woven or knitted fabric having good color developability (color depth) can be obtained by using a yarn that generates a micro crater by reducing the alkali. The single fiber dr is preferably 5 dr or less in terms of feeling. The polyurethane elastic yarn may be used as it is as a bare yarn, or may be used as a coated elastic yarn. The polyurethane elastic yarn: polyester fiber is preferably coated in a ratio of 1: 2 to 1:30.

The knitting and weaving are performed by a conventional method in the art.
Although the structure is not particularly limited, as a knitting structure, a power net, a mesh, a tulle, a pile, a satin, a tricot race, and a jacquard (the warp knitting), a reversible sheeting, a smooth, a mock, a pile, a velor, a mesh, and Jacquard (the above-mentioned circular knitting) and the like, and the woven structure includes satin, plain weave, twill, double weave and the like. The basis weight of the fabric is preferably from 20 to 600 g / m @ 2 in terms of alkali weight loss. It is practical that 3% or more of the polyurethane elastic yarn in the woven or knitted fabric is used.

The greige fabric woven and knitted in this way is subjected to weight reduction by alkali treatment. If the weight reduction rate is less than 5% by weight, the effect of improving the softness and drape property is small. 50
Exceeding the weight percentage may result in an extremely strong reduction of the dough. A preferred range is from 10 to 30% by weight. If the weight reduction is performed before refining (desizing) and before dyeing, a stable weight loss can be obtained. Next, the alkali treatment conditions will be described. As an alkali reducing agent, caustic soda is generally used. The conditions for weight reduction are, for example, in the case of treatment in a bath, an alkali weight reduction processing agent concentration of 2% to 10%, a processing temperature of 40 to 120 ° C, preferably 80 ° C to 100 ° C, and a processing time of 10 to 120 minutes. May be set according to the conditions. At this time, it is important that the elastic yarn does not extremely decrease in strength. If each condition exceeds the upper limit, the polyurethane elastic yarn may cause an extreme decrease in strength. In addition to the usual in-bath treatment, there is a continuous weight loss treatment method,
In this case, the conditions for weight reduction are appropriately set according to the target weight loss rate in a range of 1 minute to 15 minutes in steam at a temperature of 90 ° C. to 110 ° C. continuously after dipping in a caustic soda concentration of 5% to 10% solution. Just do it. As a continuous processing method, a cold long-time processing or the like can also be used.

The dyeing is carried out using a disperse dye according to the polyester fiber used. The dyeing temperature is 110 ° C
It is necessary. Below 110 ° C., usable dyes are extremely limited, and the dyeing degree is insufficient. Preferably, it is 120 ° C. or higher. This dyed stretchable woven or knitted fabric has a light-proof Kenro degree (JIS L0842).
Third exposure method discoloration and discoloration and washing Kenro degree (JIS L
0844A2 method discoloration).

In order to impart antistatic properties to the fabric of the present invention,
Post-processing or use of antistatic polyester fibers may be considered. In the present invention, the initial withstand voltage (JIS L109)
If 4) is 1000 V or less, the antistatic agent or the processing method is not limited. For example, as an antistatic agent for post-processing, a copolymer of polyethylene glycol and polyester, for example, Permallow T ( IC
Company I) and polyester-based nice pole PR-333
(Nichika Chemical). The processing method is DIP-N
There is a processing method by IP or a treatment method in a bath. As the antistatic polyester fiber, a polyester fiber into which polyethylene glycol is kneaded can be used. Further, the present invention can be used in combination with other post-processing, and can be bonded to other materials. Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples.

[0019]

【Example】

Example 1 A mixture composed of a polyester having a molecular weight of 2,000 synthesized with MPD and azelaic acid and BD and heated to 30 ° C., and MDI heated and melted at 50 ° C. were made into polyester / M
A DI / BD molar ratio of 1 / 3.15 / 2 was charged into a twin-screw extruder to carry out melt polymerization. The resulting polyurethane (PU) was continuously extruded into water in the form of a strand, and then formed into pellets with a pelletizer. The pellets were vacuum dried at 80 ° C. for 10 hours and spun (using a straight oil) at a spinning temperature of 230 ° C. and a spinning speed of 500 m / min using a spinning machine of a single screw extruder.
0dr-2f polyurethane elastic yarn was obtained. This yarn had a strength of 1.2 g / d, an elongation of 480%, and an instantaneous elastic recovery at 100% elongation at 20 ° C. of 93%. In addition, the alkali resistance (strength retention after treatment with NaOH 30 g / l at 95 ° C. × 60 minutes) was 100%.

Next, this polyurethane elastic yarn was used as a core yarn, and covered with a polyester filament of 30 d / 18 f polyester drawn yarn semi-dal to make a cover yarn (draft 3.2 times polyurethane elastic yarn, 900 twists).
T / m). Six coated satins were woven using the coated elastic yarn as the weft and the stretched polyester yarn semi-dal 50d / 36f as the warp. At this time, the on-machine density was 156 lines / inch,
It was 125 lines / inch. Next, after the refining was relaxed, the greige was reduced for 80 minutes in a 30 g / l solution of caustic soda at 95 ° C. The weight loss rate of the dough is 18% by weight
Met. It was neutralized and washed by a conventional method, and then dyed and finished under the following conditions. Preset: 180 ° C. × 40 seconds (pin tenter) Dyeing machine: liquid jet dyeing machine Dye: Sumikaron Red E-RPO 1% owf (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) Dispersing aid: Disper TL (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1 g / l pH adjuster: ammonium sulfate 1 g / l acetic acid 1 g / l Bath ratio: 1:30 Temperature: The temperature was raised from 40 ° C to 120 ° C over 30 minutes, and 120
C. for another 30 minutes. After dyeing, wash with water and then 16
Finished and set at 0 ° C for 45 seconds. The density of the finished product was 310 lines / inch and 140 lines / inch. Table 1 shows the results of the dough. Degree of light resistance of this fabric (JIS L0842 3rd exposure method discoloration)
Is grade 4-5 and has a washing kenro degree (JIS L08
44A2 method discoloration) was quaternary. The fabric was cut and sewn to create a slip. This slip had no stiffness, had a silky luster and texture, and formed a particularly elegant silhouette in addition to being easy to put on and take off in a wearing test.

Example 2 The fabric dyed in Example 1 was subjected to antistatic treatment under the following conditions. Antistatic agent Nice Ball TF-501 (Nichika Chemical) 3% sol. (Pickup 85%) Finish set 170 ° C. × 1 minute Finish density is the same as in Example 1. The weft elongation of this fabric was 88%, and the instantaneous recovery after 50% elongation was 95%. The initial friction withstand voltage of this fabric was 250 V, indicating good antistatic properties.

Example 3 The molar ratio of a polycarbonate having a molecular weight of 2,500 synthesized using a mixed diol of MOD and ND and a diphenyl carbonate of 1: 1, BD and MDI was set to 1/2.
93 / 1.8, a polyurethane elastic yarn obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 had a strength of 1.6 g / d and an elongation of 440.
%, The instantaneous elastic recovery at 20 ° C. was 92%, and the alkali resistance was 100%. Table 1 shows the results of fabrics woven and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 using this elastic yarn.
The fabric has a light fastness degree (JIS L0842, third exposure method discoloration) of 4 to 5 grades, and a wash fastness degree (J
IS L0844A2 method discoloration) was quaternary.

Example 4 The polyurethane elastic yarn and the drawn polyester yarn obtained in Example 1 were knitted with a bright T-shaped cross section of 50 dr / 36f by a tricot machine, and then dyed. The conditions were as follows. Warping draft: 1.5 times Tissue: Half Front: Polyester drawn yarn Back: Polyurethane elastic yarn On-machine course: 60 courses / inch Width: 410 cm Weight loss: 20% by weight Dyeing: Same as in Example 1 However, finishing density is the same as in Example 1. 100 courses / inch Finish width 160 cm The results for this fabric are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1 Table 1 shows the results of the fabric of Example 1 which was finished under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the weight was not reduced.

Comparative Example 2 Processing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 3 except that the polyurethane elastic yarn was a commercially available ether-based clear yarn 40 dr. As a result, the elastic yarn was broken in the dyeing process.

[0026]

[Table 1]

[0027]

The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention has a drape property and a soft and dry feel. Therefore, the stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention is most suitable as a stretchable woven or knitted fabric for clothing in which the feeling is particularly important. Specific applications include ski wear, golf slacks, shirts, swimwear,
Cycle wear, foundation (girdle, etc.),
Lingerie (camisole, etc.), training wear, casual wear (blouse, etc.), leotard,
Pantyhose, socks, supporters, gloves, bandages, etc.

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A stretchable woven or knitted fabric having reduced alkali content, comprising a main polyester fiber and the following structural unit (A):
And / or a polyurethane which essentially comprises the following structural unit (B)
A stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising an elastic yarn composed of a nonwoven fabric and dyed with a disperse dye. Embedded image 2. Polyester fiber and the following structural unit
Position (A) and / or the following structural unit (B)
A stretchable woven or knitted fabric made of an elastic yarn made of urethane is treated at an alkali weight loss processing agent concentration of 2 to 10% at a processing temperature of 4%.
A method for producing a stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a reduced alkali fiber weight by reducing a polyester fiber by 5% by weight or more by treating at 0 to 120 ° C for a treatment time of 1 to 120 minutes, and further dyeing with a disperse dye. Embedded image