JP2010138496A - Stretch woven fabric - Google Patents
Stretch woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- JP2010138496A JP2010138496A JP2008312948A JP2008312948A JP2010138496A JP 2010138496 A JP2010138496 A JP 2010138496A JP 2008312948 A JP2008312948 A JP 2008312948A JP 2008312948 A JP2008312948 A JP 2008312948A JP 2010138496 A JP2010138496 A JP 2010138496A
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- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000306 component Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008358 core component Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 13
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 7
- -1 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000009182 swimming Effects 0.000 description 6
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 4
- 241000283153 Cetacea Species 0.000 description 3
- 229920002302 Nylon 6,6 Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000003490 calendering Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002215 polytrimethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920006306 polyurethane fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl urethane Chemical compound CCOC(N)=O JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000386 athletic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000001099 axilla Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000036541 health Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007731 hot pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001748 polybutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007480 spreading Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920003002 synthetic resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000057 synthetic resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L terephthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
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- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、低目付かつ高伸度のストレッチ織物に関する。 The present invention relates to a stretch fabric having a low basis weight and a high elongation.
水着には１００分の１秒の速さを競う競泳用水着、夏の浜辺やホテルのプールで楽しむ遊泳用水着、小中学校の体育時間に着用する学童用水着、さらには健康維持を目的とするフィットネス用水着など多くの水着がある。これらの水着は身体全体を激しく動かすことから、身体に十分フィットし、身体の動きを妨げず、その動きに追従する優れたストレッチ性と回復性が要求されている。従来、水着にはフィット性、およびストレッチ性と回復性を得るために、スパンデックスと呼ばれるポリウレタン系弾性繊維をナイロン繊維やポリエステル繊維と組み合わせた丸編地もしくは経編地が一般的に使用されている。 Swimsuits for swimming that compete at a speed of 1/100 second, swimsuits for swimming on the beach or hotel pool in summer, swimsuits for schoolchildren to wear during elementary and junior high school physical education, and health maintenance There are many swimsuits such as fitness swimsuits. Since these swimsuits move the entire body violently, they are required to have excellent stretchability and recoverability that fits the body sufficiently, does not obstruct the movement of the body, and follows the movement. Conventionally, circular knitted fabrics or warp knitted fabrics in which polyurethane elastic fibers called spandex are combined with nylon fibers or polyester fibers are generally used for swimwear in order to obtain fit, stretchability and recovery. .
しかしながら、それら編地はポリウレタン系弾性繊維を中層に挿入するため多層組織により編成されており、そのため目付や厚みの低減が出来ないことが問題であった。 However, these knitted fabrics are knitted with a multilayer structure in order to insert polyurethane-based elastic fibers into the middle layer, so that the basis weight and thickness cannot be reduced.
また織物では過去からスパンデックスを用いた２ｗａｙストレッチ織物が多数提案されている。例えば特許文献１では比較的薄地のストレッチ織物が提案されているが、伸長率がタテ方向でも４０％以下であり水着には適さないものである。また特許文献２では伸長率３０から１００％の防塵衣用織物が提案されている。該発明は着用快適性を持った防塵衣とするため適度な通気度やストレッチを目指したものであり、厚みや緻密感等水着には不適なものである。特許文献３，４においてはスパンデックスを用いたストレッチ織物が提案されているが、伸長率等記載が無く、前記特許文献同様水着には不適なものである。
本発明の課題は、編物では達成することの出来ない低目付かつ高伸度のストレッチ織物およびそれを用いた水着を提供することにある。 An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch fabric having a low basis weight and high elongation that cannot be achieved by a knitted fabric, and a swimsuit using the same.
本発明は鋭意検討の結果、下記構成により達成できる事を見出した。
(1)芯糸にスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸に合成繊維を用いた撚係数６５００から１２０００のシングルカバリング糸をタテ糸およびヨコ糸に用いた織物において、タテおよびヨコ方向の伸長率がそれぞれ５０％以上であることを特徴とするストレッチ織物。
(2)該合成繊維がポリアミド系繊維もしくはポリエステル系繊維であることを特徴とする上記(1)に記載のストレッチ織物。
(3)該合成繊維が仮撚加工を施されていることを特徴とする上記(1)または(2)に記載のストレッチ織物。
(4)該シングルカバリング糸の芯成分を構成するスパンデックス繊維が４４Ｔ以下であり、かつ鞘成分を構成する合成繊維が４４デシテックス以下であることを特徴とする上記(1)から(3)のいずれかにに記載のストレッチ織物。
(5)目付が１３０ｇ／ｍ２以下である上記(1)から(4)のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。
(6)ストレッチ織物に表面平滑化もしくは／および撥水加工が施されていることを特徴とする上記(1)から(5)のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。
(7)上記(1)から(6)のいずれかに記載の織物を少なくともその一部に用いたことを特徴とする水着。
As a result of intensive studies, it has been found that the present invention can be achieved by the following configuration.
(1) In a woven fabric using a single covering yarn having a twisting factor of 6500 to 12000 using spandex fiber as the core yarn and synthetic fiber as the sheath yarn as the warp and weft, the elongation in the warp and weft directions is 50% or more, respectively. Stretch fabric characterized by being
(2) The stretch fabric according to (1) above, wherein the synthetic fiber is a polyamide fiber or a polyester fiber.
(3) The stretch fabric according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the synthetic fiber is false twisted.
(4) Any of (1) to (3) above, wherein the spandex fiber constituting the core component of the single covering yarn is 44 T or less and the synthetic fiber constituting the sheath component is 44 dtex or less Stretch fabric according to crab.
(5) The stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the basis weight is 130 g / m 2 or less.
(6) The stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above, wherein the stretch fabric is subjected to surface smoothing and / or water repellent treatment.
(7) A swimsuit comprising the woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (6) as at least a part thereof.
本発明のストレッチ織物は、従来の編物に比べ、低目付であり、かつ水着や、インナー等として充分なストレッチ性を付与することが可能である。 The stretch fabric of the present invention has a lower basis weight than conventional knitted fabrics, and can impart sufficient stretch properties as a swimsuit or an inner.
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
本発明においては、編地ではなく織物にすることが重要である。織物の２ｗａｙストレッチは従来から生産されているが、本発明では一般衣料で問題とならないが、激しい運動を伴う水泳等に対応するためスナッグが問題となりやすく、その改善のためカバリング時の撚係数を高く設定する必要がある。その範囲は６５００から１２０００が好ましく、スナッグレベルを最良とするためには７５００から１１０００に設定することが望ましい。 In the present invention, it is important to use a woven fabric instead of a knitted fabric. Although the 2-way stretch of woven fabric has been produced conventionally, in the present invention, there is no problem with general clothing, but snag is likely to be a problem in order to cope with swimming with intense exercise, and the twisting factor at the time of covering is improved for the improvement. It needs to be set high. The range is preferably 6500 to 12000, and is preferably set to 7500 to 11000 for the best snug level.
なお撚係数は次式で算出される。
撚係数Ｋ＝（ＳＳ÷Ｄ＋ＳＣ）1/2×Ｒ
ＳＳ：スパンデックス繊維の繊度（ＤＴＥＸ）
ＳＣ：鞘糸の繊度（ＤＴＥＸ）
Ｄ ：スパンデックス繊維のドラフト率（倍）
Ｒ ：カバリング数（Ｔ／Ｍ）
カバリングの方式は芯糸に一方向の糸をカバリングするシングルカバリングと芯糸に、右方向と左方向の糸がカバーされるダブルカバリングが公知の方法として知られているが、本発明では目付の低減を目的とするため、カバリング糸の繊度を細くできるシングルカバリングが好ましい。またカバリングの際、スパンデックス繊維に適度なドラフトを掛けて行われるが、高ストレッチ織物とするためにそのドラフト率は３倍以上、４倍以下、より好ましくは３．５倍以上、３．８倍以下にすることが好ましい。ドラフト率が３倍未満では高ストレッチ織物にすることが難しく、逆に４倍を越えるとカバリング糸にスパンデックス繊維の糸切れ等により工程通過性が悪化する傾向にある。
The twist coefficient is calculated by the following formula.
Twist factor K = (SS ÷ D + SC) 1/2 × R
SS: Spandex fiber fineness (DTEX)
SC: Fineness of sheath yarn (DTEX)
D: draft ratio of spandex fiber (times)
R: Covering number (T / M)
As a covering method, a single covering for covering the core yarn with one direction and a double covering for covering the right and left yarns with the core yarn are known as well-known methods. For the purpose of reduction, single covering capable of reducing the fineness of the covering yarn is preferable. In covering, the spandex fiber is subjected to an appropriate draft, but the draft rate is 3 to 4 times, more preferably 3.5 to 3.8 times in order to obtain a high stretch fabric. The following is preferable. If the draft ratio is less than 3 times, it is difficult to obtain a high stretch fabric. Conversely, if it exceeds 4 times, the processability tends to be deteriorated due to the thread breakage of spandex fibers in the covering yarn.
鞘糸には周知の合成繊維を用いればよい。合成繊維には各種あるが、特にポリアミド系繊維もしくはポリエステル系繊維や、ポリプロピレンを用いることが、強度や加工性の面から好ましい。 A well-known synthetic fiber may be used for the sheath yarn. Although there are various synthetic fibers, it is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of strength and workability to use polyamide fibers or polyester fibers or polypropylene.
ポリアミド系繊維にも各種あるが、強度の面およびスパンデックス混織物の加工性の面からナイロン６６を用いることが更に好ましい。 Although there are various types of polyamide-based fibers, it is more preferable to use nylon 66 from the viewpoint of strength and the workability of the spandex mixed fabric.
またポリエステル系繊維にはポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート等いずれを使用しても良いが、良好な熱セット性を求めるのであればポリエチレンテレフタレート、高伸度を求めるのであればポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを選択する等適宜選択することが出来る。ただし、これら繊維は一般に分散染料を用いて染められるが、分散染料はポリウレタン繊維に汚染してしまうため、最終製品に置いて色移り等堅牢度不良を発生させることがある。そのためカチオン染料で染色することの出来るカチオン可染ポリエステル系繊維を用いることが好ましい。 Polyester fiber may be any of polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc., but polyethylene terephthalate is required for good heat setting properties, and polybutylene is required for high elongation. For example, terephthalate or polytrimethylene terephthalate can be selected as appropriate. However, these fibers are generally dyed with disperse dyes, but disperse dyes contaminate polyurethane fibers, and may cause poor fastness such as color transfer in the final product. Therefore, it is preferable to use a cationic dyeable polyester fiber that can be dyed with a cationic dye.
鞘糸に用いる合成繊維の繊維形態および断面形状には特に制限は無いが、高ストレッチ織物とするためには鞘糸となる合成繊維に周知の手法により仮撚加工を施し、捲縮を付与しておくことが好ましい。一般にスパンデックス混織物は、芯糸となるスパンデックスの伸度不足ではなく、鞘糸の糸長が不足するためにストレッチ性に制限が出ることが多く、鞘糸に捲縮を与えてやることで、捲縮を有しない生糸使い品よりもストレッチ率を高くすることが出来る。 There are no particular restrictions on the fiber form and cross-sectional shape of the synthetic fiber used for the sheath yarn, but in order to obtain a high stretch fabric, false twisting is applied to the synthetic fiber used as the sheath yarn by a well-known method to impart crimps. It is preferable to keep it. In general, spandex blended fabric is not short of the elongation of the spandex that is the core yarn, but the length of the sheath yarn is often insufficient, so the stretchability is often limited, and the sheath yarn is crimped, The stretch rate can be made higher than raw silk products that do not have crimps.
仮撚加工の方法にはピンタイプ、フリクションタイプ、ベルトタイプ等種々存在するが、本発明においてはその方法に特に限定はない。ただし総繊度が細い合成繊維を用いるためピンタイプを用いることが好ましく、フリクションを用いる場合はディスク枚数を増やす等総繊度の細い合成繊維に対応した仮撚を施すことが好ましい。 There are various types of false twisting methods such as pin type, friction type, and belt type, but the method is not particularly limited in the present invention. However, since a synthetic fiber having a fine total fineness is used, it is preferable to use a pin type. When using friction, it is preferable to apply false twist corresponding to the synthetic fiber having a fine total fineness, such as increasing the number of disks.
芯糸のスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸の合成繊維の繊度は両者共に４４デシテックス以下であることが好ましい。これにより目付を１３０ｇ／ｍ２以下と低くすることができる。 It is preferable that the fineness of the spandex fiber of the core yarn and the synthetic fiber of the sheath yarn are both 44 dtex or less. Thereby, the basis weight can be lowered to 130 g / m 2 or less.
また使用するスパンデックス繊維は公知のものでよく、例えば旭化成せんい株式会社の“ロイカ”やオペロンテックス株式会社の“ライクラ”等を使用すればよい。ただしプールでの使用が前提となるため、好ましくは“ロイカＳＰ”や“ライクラＴ−２５４Ｂ”等耐塩素性に優れたスパンデックス繊維を用いることが好ましい。 The spandex fiber to be used may be a known one, such as “Royca” manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd. or “Lycra” manufactured by Operontex Co., Ltd. However, since it is premised on use in a pool, it is preferable to use a spandex fiber excellent in chlorine resistance such as “Roika SP” or “Lycra T-254B”.
これら手法により得られたシングルカバリング糸を用いた織物は、タテ、ヨコそれぞれの伸長率が５０％以上となるよう織物設計、染色加工を行う必要がある。 The fabric using the single covering yarn obtained by these methods needs to be designed and dyed so that the elongation ratio of the warp and the width is 50% or more.
織物設計においては通常衣料用途であればストレッチ率は最大４０％程度であり、染色加工による縮率はたかだか５０％程度であるが、本発明では編物同様の高ストレッチ率を必要とするためタテ方向は織機ヨコ入れ密度に対し仕上ヨコ密度で換算しタテ収縮率７５％以上、ヨコ方向も筬入幅に対し仕上幅で換算しヨコ収縮率８０％以上とする必要がある。そのため生機密度はかなり低い値となるため続く染色可能にて目ズレ等問題の発生しない範囲で低密度化する必要がある。製織にはポリウレタン繊維をヨコ糸として使用するため、ヨコ入れピーク張力の高いウォータージェットルーム（ＷＪＬ）は好ましくなく、エアージェットルーム（ＡＪＬ）もしくはレピアルームを使用することが好ましい。 In textile design, the stretch rate is usually about 40% for garments, and the shrinkage rate by dyeing is about 50%. However, in the present invention, a high stretch rate similar to that of a knitted fabric is required. Needs to be converted into a finish horizontal density with respect to the loom filling density and to have a vertical shrinkage of 75% or more, and the horizontal direction also needs to be converted into a finishing width with respect to the insertion width to have a horizontal shrinkage of 80% or more. For this reason, the green machine density is considerably low, so it is necessary to reduce the density within a range where subsequent dyeing is possible and no problem such as misalignment occurs. Since weaving uses polyurethane fibers as weft yarns, water jet loom (WJL) with high weft peak tension is not preferred, and air jet loom (AJL) or rapier loom is preferred.
タテ収縮率（％）＝（仕上ヨコ密度−織機ヨコ入れ本数）÷織機ヨコ入れ本数×１００
ヨコ収縮率（％）＝（筬入幅−仕上幅）÷仕上幅×１００
染色仕上においては既存の２ＷＡＹ織物もしくは編物を加工する公知のプロセスを利用することが出来る。具体的プロセスは拡布精練／リラックス、中間セット、染色、仕上げセットや液流精練／リラックス、染色、仕上げセット等目的とする織物のストレッチ率や表面品位の状態により適宜選択すればよい。
Vertical shrinkage (%) = (finishing horizontal density-number of weaving looms) ÷ number of weaving wefts x 100
Horizontal shrinkage rate (%) = (insertion width-finishing width) ÷ finishing width x 100
In the dyeing finish, a known process for processing an existing 2WAY fabric or knitted fabric can be used. The specific process may be appropriately selected depending on the stretch ratio and surface quality of the target woven fabric such as spreading scouring / relaxation, intermediate set, dyeing, finishing set and liquid scouring / relaxing, dyeing, finishing set.
さらに仕上げ加工においては撥水加工を生地に施すことが好ましい。水着の生地への保水率が高いと着用時の付加が高くなり、撥水加工を施すことでその付加を軽減することが出来る。撥水加工はストレッチ織物全面に施しても良いが、水抜け性を加味し、特開平09-049107、特開2000-226709、特開2003-328212等に記載のように部分的に撥水加工を施しても良い。 Furthermore, it is preferable to apply a water repellent finish to the fabric in the finishing process. If the water retention rate of the swimsuit fabric is high, the addition during wearing increases, and the addition can be reduced by applying a water repellent treatment. The water repellent finish may be applied to the entire stretch fabric, but in consideration of water drainage, it is partially water repellent finish as described in JP-A-09-049107, JP-A-2000-226709, JP-A-2003-328212, etc. May be applied.
また水に対する生地の表面抵抗を下げ、かつ保水率を下げるためにはストレッチ織物にカレンダー加工のような表面を平滑化処理することが好ましい。加工機としては通常の加熱ロールとペーパーロール、またはコットンロールよりなるカレンダー加工機、板状物を用いたカレンダー加工機を用いればよい。なお加熱金属ロールを用いる場合は鏡面ロールであることが好ましい。またその他手法として生地を縫製品にするため裁断後に熱プレスを行う事でも平滑化する事が出来る。なお、競泳水着用の織物として用いる場合、特開2003-328212等に記載されている様にカレンダー加工条件は、織物の幅１００〜２２０ｃｍに対して、線圧で１〜６０ｔ程度とし、ロール温度は１３０〜２５０℃程度で行うことが好ましい。 Further, in order to reduce the surface resistance of the fabric to water and to reduce the water retention rate, it is preferable to smooth the surface of the stretch woven fabric by calendering. As a processing machine, an ordinary heating roll and paper roll, or a calendar processing machine using a cotton roll, or a calendar processing machine using a plate-like material may be used. In addition, when using a heating metal roll, it is preferable that it is a mirror surface roll. As another technique, the fabric can be made into a sewn product, and smoothing can also be performed by hot pressing after cutting. In addition, when used as a fabric for swimming wear, the calendering conditions are about 1 to 60 t in linear pressure with respect to the width of the fabric of 100 to 220 cm, as described in JP2003-328212, and the roll temperature. Is preferably performed at about 130 to 250 ° C.
表面平滑化のためにはプレス等手法を用いず、生地表面にウレタン等の合成樹脂を繊維内部に浸透させ、伸長率を妨げない程度に薄くコーティングする事や、生地と同等の伸度を有するフィルムをラミネートやボンディングしても良い。 For smoothing the surface, press or other methods are not used, but synthetic resin such as urethane is infiltrated into the fiber surface and coated thinly to the extent that the elongation rate is not hindered. A film may be laminated or bonded.
これら構成で得られたストレッチ織物はタテ、ヨコ両方向にてそれぞれ伸長率が５０％以上あることが好ましい。繊維機械学会誌３６巻６号（１９８３）「皮膚伸びと衣服伸び」原田隆司他著によると動作による皮膚の伸びは女性の場合、後肘部（肘頭部）にて垂直方向で６２％、腋窩部にて垂直方向６６％であり、皮膚に密着する水着は皮膚伸びと同等の伸長率を保有することが好ましく、ストレッチ織物の伸長率は５０％以上必要である。５０％以上あることで水着と皮膚とのゆとりにより差分が吸収され、ほぼ身体の動きに追従することができ、より好ましくは伸長率が７０％以上あればゆとりが極小である競泳等にも使用することが出来る。なおここで伸長率はＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９６Ａ法（ラベルドストリップ法）にて測定された値を示す。 It is preferable that the stretch fabric obtained by these structures has an elongation of 50% or more in both the vertical and horizontal directions. According to Textile Society of Japan, Vol. 36, No. 6 (1983) “Skin Elongation and Clothes Elongation” by Takashi Harada et al., The elongation of the skin due to movement is 62% in the vertical direction at the back elbow (elbow head) in women. The swimsuit that is 66% in the vertical direction at the axilla part and that is in close contact with the skin preferably has an elongation rate equivalent to that of the skin, and the stretch rate of the stretch fabric needs to be 50% or more. The difference is absorbed by the space between the swimsuit and the skin when it is 50% or more, and it can follow the movement of the body, and more preferably it is used for swimming etc. where the space is minimal when the elongation rate is 70% or more. I can do it. Here, the elongation rate is a value measured by JIS L1096A method (labeled strip method).
またストレッチ織物は皮膚の動きに合わせて伸びるだけでなく、伸ばされた後に戻ることも身体の動きに追従するためには必要である。従って本発明のストレッチ織物はタテ、ヨコ方向それぞれの伸長回復率が８０％以上であることが好ましい。特に競泳等激しい動きを有する競技に使用される場合、伸長回復率は９０％以上あることがより好ましい。なおここで伸長回復率はＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９６Ｂ−１法にて測定された値を示す。 In addition, the stretch fabric not only stretches with the movement of the skin, but also needs to return after being stretched in order to follow the movement of the body. Therefore, the stretch fabric of the present invention preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more in each of the vertical and horizontal directions. In particular, when used for competitions with intense movement such as swimming, it is more preferable that the elongation recovery rate is 90% or more. Here, the elongation recovery rate is a value measured by the JIS L1096B-1 method.
本発明のストレッチ織物は、低目付であり、かつ、優れたストレッチ性を有することから、水着、インナー、アスレ・スポーツアウター向けベース基布等として好適に用いることができる。
［実施例１］
鞘糸としてナイロン６６の２１デシテックス２０フィラメントの仮撚加工糸、芯糸としてオペロンテックス株式会社の“ライクラＴ−２５４Ｂ”３３Ｔを用い、芯糸のドラフト率３．５倍にて撚係数８９００のシングルカバリング糸を作成した。このカバリング糸をタテ・ヨコ糸に用いＡＪＬを用いて筬密度９０羽／鯨寸、筬入れ２本入れ、ヨコ密度１０５本／２．５４ｃｍにて製織を行い、生機を得た。同生機を液流染色機にて精練／リラックスを行い、続けて酸性染料にて染色を行った後、有り幅にて仕上げセットを行った。得られた織物の伸長率などを表１に示した。
［実施例２］
鞘糸として３３デシテックス２４フィラメントのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚加工糸を用い、その他は実施例１と同様の芯糸、条件にて製織・加工を実施した。ただし染料のみカチオン染料に変更した。
Since the stretch fabric of the present invention has a low basis weight and excellent stretch properties, it can be suitably used as a base fabric for swimwear, inner wear, athletic sports outerwear, and the like.
[Example 1]
The sheath yarn is false twisted yarn of 21 dtex 20 filaments of nylon 66, and “Lycra T-254B” 33T of Operontex Co., Ltd. is used as the core yarn. A covering yarn was created. This covering yarn was used as a warp and weft, and weaving was carried out using AJL at a cocoon density of 90 wings / whale size, 2 cocoon holders, and a weft density of 105 pcs / 2.54 cm. The same machine was scoured / relaxed with a liquid dyeing machine, then dyed with an acid dye, and then finished with a width. Table 1 shows the elongation ratio and the like of the obtained woven fabric.
[Example 2]
Weaving and processing were carried out under the same core yarn and conditions as in Example 1 except that 33 dtex 24 filament cationic dyeable polyester false twisted yarn was used as the sheath yarn. However, only the dye was changed to a cationic dye.
得られた織物の伸長率などを表１に示した。
［比較例１］
実施例１と同じカバリング糸を用い、筬入れ本数を３本／羽、織機ヨコ入れ本数を１３０本／２．５４ｃｍに変更し、製織・加工を実施した。
Table 1 shows the elongation ratio and the like of the obtained woven fabric.
[Comparative Example 1]
Weaving and processing were carried out using the same covering yarn as in Example 1, changing the number of wrinkles into 3 / feather, and changing the number of looms into 130 / 2.54 cm.
得られた織物の伸長率などを表１に示した。
［比較例２］
鞘糸としてナイロン６６の７８デシテックス６８フィラメントの仮撚加工糸、芯糸としてオペロンテックス株式会社の“ライクラＴ−１２７Ｃ”４４Ｔを用い、芯糸のドラフト率３．４倍にて撚係数１１４００のシングルカバリング糸を作成した。このカバリング糸をタテ・ヨコ糸に用いＡＪＬを用いて筬密度６５羽／鯨寸、筬入れ２本入れ、ヨコ密度７５本／２．５４ｃｍにて製織を行い、生機を得た。同生機を液流染色機にて精練／リラックスを行い、続けて酸性染料にて染色を行った後、有り幅にて仕上げセットを行った。
Table 1 shows the elongation ratio and the like of the obtained woven fabric.
[Comparative Example 2]
Uses a false twisted yarn of 78 dtex 68 filament of nylon 66 as the sheath yarn and “Lycra T-127C” 44T of Operontex Co., Ltd. as the core yarn, and a single yarn with a twist factor of 11400 at a core yarn draft ratio of 3.4 times A covering yarn was created. This covering yarn was used as a warp and weft, and weaving was carried out using AJL at a cocoon density of 65 whales / whale size, 2 cocoon inserts, and a weft density of 75 pcs / 2.54 cm. The same machine was scoured / relaxed with a liquid dyeing machine, then dyed with an acid dye, and then finished with a width.
得られた織物の伸長率などを表１に示した。 Table 1 shows the elongation ratio and the like of the obtained woven fabric.
Claims (7)
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2012073648A1 (en) | 2010-12-01 | 2012-06-07 | 東レ株式会社 | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| JP2013096027A (en) * | 2011-10-31 | 2013-05-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Stretch fabric |
| KR20160119262A (en) | 2014-03-31 | 2016-10-12 | 미즈노 가부시키가이샤 | Stretch woven fabric, and sportswear and swimwear employing same |
| US20220339914A1 (en) * | 2019-09-13 | 2022-10-27 | The North Face Apparel Corp. | Composite materials with membrane |
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| JPH05117931A (en) * | 1991-10-22 | 1993-05-14 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Covering yarn |
| JPH09132839A (en) * | 1995-11-02 | 1997-05-20 | Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd | Stretched woven fabric |
| JP2002242046A (en) * | 2001-02-13 | 2002-08-28 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Transmitting stretch fabric |
| JP2002309483A (en) * | 2001-04-16 | 2002-10-23 | Toray Ind Inc | Clothing for woman |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH05117931A (en) * | 1991-10-22 | 1993-05-14 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Covering yarn |
| JPH09132839A (en) * | 1995-11-02 | 1997-05-20 | Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd | Stretched woven fabric |
| JP2002242046A (en) * | 2001-02-13 | 2002-08-28 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Transmitting stretch fabric |
| JP2002309483A (en) * | 2001-04-16 | 2002-10-23 | Toray Ind Inc | Clothing for woman |
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2012073648A1 (en) | 2010-12-01 | 2012-06-07 | 東レ株式会社 | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| CN103237934A (en) * | 2010-12-01 | 2013-08-07 | 东丽株式会社 | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| KR101311587B1 (en) * | 2010-12-01 | 2013-09-26 | 도레이 카부시키가이샤 | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| US8822013B2 (en) | 2010-12-01 | 2014-09-02 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| CN103237934B (en) * | 2010-12-01 | 2015-02-18 | 东丽株式会社 | Woven fabric for swimsuits, and swimsuit |
| JP5772824B2 (en) * | 2010-12-01 | 2015-09-02 | 東レ株式会社 | Swimwear textiles and swimwear |
| JP2013096027A (en) * | 2011-10-31 | 2013-05-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Stretch fabric |
| KR20160119262A (en) | 2014-03-31 | 2016-10-12 | 미즈노 가부시키가이샤 | Stretch woven fabric, and sportswear and swimwear employing same |
| US20220339914A1 (en) * | 2019-09-13 | 2022-10-27 | The North Face Apparel Corp. | Composite materials with membrane |
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| JP5315961B2 (en) | 2013-10-16 |
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