JP2898457B2 - Stretch woven and knitted fabric with surface pattern - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a surface pattern, and more particularly, to a stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a large stretchable property while having a pattern formed by pressing on the surface.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, the application of a concavo-convex pattern by pressing is known as embossing, and in the past, a concavo-convex pattern was formed by applying a pressing process to a cotton cloth or a rayon cloth impregnated with a thermosetting resin. This has been done by a method or a method of pressing a fabric using thermoplastic fibers. In the pressing process, a high-temperature engraved mold roll and a soft roll are set at a high pressure and passed between them to perform molding, thereby transferring the pattern of the engraved roll to the surface of the fabric and simultaneously imparting gloss.

[0003] However, the conventional method has a drawback that the stretchability is erased in the pattern portion because a high heat setting is involved in the pressing process. On the other hand, as the woven or knitted fabric having elasticity, a mixture of polyurethane-based elastic yarn is conventionally used. Widely used.

However, in a woven or knitted fabric in which a polyurethane-based elastic yarn is mixed, the polyurethane elastic yarn has a high elasticity even when subjected to a pressing process, and has no heat setting property. Disappears with the expansion and contraction of the fabric, or has the disadvantage that the contour of the pattern is blurred,
In the end, the pressing process could not be performed on the woven or knitted fabric in which the polyurethane elastic yarn was mixed. In addition, when the woven or knitted fabric made of polyester yarn is subjected to press processing, the processing at high temperature and high pressure causes the heat setting effect to reduce the elasticity of the pattern part, which impairs the physical properties of the elastic woven fabric. It was not used as a fabric.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a stretchable woven / knitted fabric which has the above-mentioned drawbacks and has a large stretchability while having a pattern formed by pressing on the surface. It is in.

[0006]

According to the present invention, a phthalic acid is a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups is a main diol component.
A woven or knitted fabric in which 2 to 30% by weight of an elastic yarn made of a block polyester having the following polyester as a soft segment and a polybutylene-based polyester as a hard segment and 98 to 70% by weight of a polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber, The surface of the woven or knitted fabric has a concavo-convex pattern by pressing and / or a gloss difference pattern,
The stretchable woven or knitted fabric having a surface pattern is characterized in that the stretchable woven or knitted fabric has a stretchability of 20 to 200% at a load of 1.5 kg / 5 cm in at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction. Provided.

The block polyester of the present invention contains, as a soft segment, a polyester having a melting point of 50 ° C. or less containing phthalic acids as a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups as a main diol component. Here, phthalic acids are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid,
Terephthalic acid refers to, especially obtained polyester,
Isophthalic acid is often used because it is amorphous or a polymer having a melting point of 50 ° C. or less, and because of the problem of scattering during production. On the other hand, as the diol component,
Examples include linear diols such as 1,6-hexanediol and 1,10-decanediol, and branched diols such as 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and 2-methyl-1,8-octanediol. The soft segment constituting the block polyester of the present invention contains such acid and diol components as main components, but may be a copolymer of 40 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less of other components. In this case, the copolymerization component includes other dicarboxylic acids and diols. Copolymerization of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or ether glycol, such as polyoxytetramethylene glycol, for the purpose of improving the properties particularly at low temperatures is one preferable measure.

On the other hand, the polybutylene terephthalate-based polyester used as the hard segment refers to polybutylene terephthalate or a copolymer thereof, and the copolymerization ratio is 30 mol% or less, preferably 20 mol% or less. However, since this copolymerization ratio often occurs during the blocking reaction, the melting point of the finally obtained block polyester is preferably 170 ° C. or higher, more preferably 180 ° C. or higher.

The block polyester of the present invention may be a copolymer which can be dyed with a cationic dye or an acid dye in one or both of the soft segment and the hard segment, such as a sulfoisophthalic acid compound and a tertiary tertiary compound. It is preferable that an amine, a quaternary ammonium, a quaternary phosphonium compound, or the like is copolymerized or blended.

It is desired that such a block polyester has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.9 or more. This is because the strength of the fiber is reduced.

Such a block polyester is generally composed of a polyester constituting a soft segment,
A method of melt-mixing and reacting with the polyester constituting the hard segment to form an appropriate block is used, but it is not particularly limited to this method.

In the present invention, such a block polyester is used as a fiber, and this production method is generally based on a melt spinning method. This spinning method is not particularly limited, and it is sufficient to simply take out the molten polyester from the die, cool it, solidify it, and wind it up. If necessary, stretch or
Heat treatment is possible, but depends on the application. Further, as the oil agent, for example, a silicone material is used, but it is not necessary to stick to this.

In the present invention, the elastic yarn made of the block polyester may be used as bare yarn,
It may be used as a core-sheath composite yarn coated with polyester fiber or the like. Knitted fabrics are suitable for use with bare yarn, and can be used for both warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics. In order to coat the elastic yarn, a method of covering with a polyester fiber or the like using a hollow spindle, a method of aligning the elastic yarn and the polyester fiber or the like and twisting and coating with a difference in elongation, a spinning machine A method using a core-spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in which an elastic yarn is covered with a polyester fiber or the like by utilizing the above method can be used.

The elastic yarn made of the block polyester can be used in the range of 2 to 30% by weight based on the weight of the whole woven or knitted fabric.
It is preferably used in the range of 15 to 15% by weight, while in the case of a knitted fabric, it is preferably used in the range of 15 to 30% by weight.

On the other hand, as the polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber used in the present invention, a cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber or the like can be used in addition to the regular polyester fiber. The mixing ratio of the polyester terephthalate-based polyester fiber is used in the range of 98 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the knitted fabric.

As the woven or knitted fabric used in the present invention, a taffeta or satin woven fabric is preferably used in the case of a woven fabric, and a twill or half fabric is preferably used in the case of a knitted fabric.

The woven or knitted fabric thus obtained has high elasticity due to the elastic yarn used therein, but the elongation at a load of 1.5 kg / 5 cm ranges from 30 to 250%.
Those in the range are preferably used.

Next, the woven or knitted fabric is provided with an uneven pattern or a gloss difference pattern by pressing. The pressing process may be a method generally known as embossing process, engraving various patterns on the surface of a metal roll having a heating device, pressing the heated metal roll against a soft roll at high pressure,
By passing the woven or knitted fabric between the metal roll and the soft roll, the pattern of the engraved roll is transferred to the surface of the woven or knitted fabric and at the same time, the gloss is given. The temperature of the metal roll by the pressing is in the range of 150 to 200 ° C., and the pressing pressure is in the range of the linear pressure of 2 to 40 ton / m. The pattern provided by the pressing process may be not only a concavo-convex pattern obtained by conventional embossing but also a pattern of such a degree that only a change in gloss is given to the surface of the woven or knitted material by the pressing.

Even after performing such a pressing process,
The woven or knitted fabric is hardly reduced in elasticity, and the elongation in at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction (elongation at a load of 1.5 kg / 5 cm) is 20 to 200.
%have.

The elongation rate is determined as follows.

In the case of a woven fabric, two test pieces of 5.5 cm × 20 cm are taken in each of the warp and weft directions, approximately the same number of yarns are removed from both sides of the width to make the width 5.0 cm, and the test length 10 cm in the center. Mark exactly where.

In the case of a knitted fabric, two test pieces each having a width of 5.0 cm and a length of 20 cm are taken in each direction of the wale and the course, and a test length of 10 cm is accurately marked at the center.

The test piece was applied with an initial load of 20 g using a tensile tester equipped with an automatic recording device so that the test piece was gripped so that the distance between the test pieces was 10 cm, and the test piece was stretched at a pulling speed of 30 cm / min to a low load of 1.5 kg. Then, immediately return to the original position at the same speed, draw a load-elongation curve, and read and determine the elongation ratio (elongation at 1.5 kg load) from the load-elongation curve.

[0024]

As described above, polyurethane elastic yarns, which have been widely used as elastic yarns, are unsuitable for the thermal pressing employed in the present invention. Polyetherester-based elastic yarns are also known, but these yarns have not been improved in thermal properties to the left as compared to polyurethane elastic yarns, leading to the production of practical stretchable fabrics. Not in.

In this regard, in the present invention, as the elastomer constituting the elastic yarn, phthalic acid is used as a main acid component as a soft segment and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups is used as a main diol component. It has been found that when a polyester-ester-based polymer into which the following polyester is introduced is employed, it can withstand heat treatment at the time of pressing and can substantially maintain elasticity.

[0026]

The stretchable woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a high stretchability despite having a concavo-convex pattern and / or a differential gloss pattern imparted to the surface by pressing. is there.

Moreover, the contour of the uneven pattern or the differential gloss pattern does not collapse even if elasticity is repeatedly imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, and the contour does not collapse even after repeated washing. It is durable. In the conventional woven or knitted fabric, the portion provided with the pattern by the pressing process has reduced elasticity, but in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the pattern portion has almost no decrease in the elasticity and retains the performance as a stretchable woven or knitted fabric. Is what you are doing.

Further, the block copolymer used in the present invention itself is compared with a conventionally known spandex or an elastic yarn using a polyether / ester block copolymer previously proposed by the present inventors, It has features of good light resistance and chlorine resistance. Also, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has been found to have very good light resistance even after dry cleaning,
This is also one of the effects of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.
In this embodiment, “parts” means “parts by weight”.

[0030]

Example 1 70 parts of dimethyl isophthalate, 12 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 40 parts of decanedicarboxylic acid and 150 parts of hexamethylene glycol were heated together with 0.17 part of dibutyltin diacetate to remove by-produced methanol and water. did. Further, after increasing the degree of polymerization by a reaction under reduced pressure, 52 parts of polybutylene terephthalate obtained by separately performing a polymerization reaction was added. The reaction was carried out at 250 ° C. under reduced pressure, and after 15 minutes, 0.06 of phenylphosphonic acid was added. The mixture was discharged and cooled, and then cut into chips. This polyester has an intrinsic viscosity of 1.10 and a melting point of 19
2 ° C.

The chips were dried at 140 ° C. under a nitrogen stream, and then were melted through a 1-hole die using a melt spinning apparatus.
It was discharged at 0 ° C. and wound up at 400 m / min. This yarn had an elongation of 40 de and a strength of 580% of 0.85 g / de.

The elastic yarn and polyester filament 50 de /
A warp knitted fabric having a half structure was knitted with a 28 gauge warp knitting machine using 24fil. After finishing the warp-knitted article in a usual finishing step, a polka dot pattern having a depth of 1 mm was pressed on the obtained warp-knitted article by an embossing machine having a pair of a metal roller and a rubber roller. The temperature of the metal roller used for the pressing was 180 ° C. and the roller linear pressure was 3 ton / m. The obtained knitted fabric has a warp elongation of 78% and a polka dot pattern on the surface, but the knitted fabric after pressing has an elongation of 75% and has a fabric elongation before processing. The rate of decrease was smaller than the elongation, and the polka dot pattern did not disappear even when elasticity was repeatedly imparted, and the outline was clear. Further, the pattern imparted to this knitted fabric was able to withstand repeated washing, and the desired stretchable knitted fabric was obtained.

As Comparative Example 1, a warp knitted fabric similar to that of Example 1 was produced using a urethane-based elastic yarn 40de / 4fil as the elastic yarn and a commercially available nylon filament yarn 40de / 12fil. The resulting knit is 84%
However, the elongation after pressing the same polka dot pattern as in Example 1 was 74%, which was a large decrease, and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 had the durability of the pattern. In particular, the contour of the pattern was broken and blurred by repeated washing, and the durability of the pattern was poor.

[0034]

Example 2 The same yarn as the elastic yarn used in Example 1 was used as a core yarn, and a polyester filament yarn 50 de / 24 was used as a sheath yarn.
A sheath yarn is coated around the core yarn using a fil with a twist number of 1,200 T / m using a covering machine,
A covering yarn was obtained. Using the covering yarn as the weft and the polyester filament 50de / 24fil as the warp, a taffeta was woven with a plain weave structure. The woven fabric obtained by passing the taffeta woven fabric through a normal finishing step has a warp density of 84 yarns / c.
m, the weft density is 40 yarns / cm and the warp elongation is 2
The elongation in the weft direction was 3%, and the elongation in the weft direction was 46%. The obtained woven fabric was subjected to a satin pattern pressing process using an embossing machine having a pair of a metal roller and a rubber roller. The temperature of the metal roller used in the pressing was 170 ° C., and the roller linear pressure was 30 ton.
n / m.

The warp elongation of the woven fabric after pressing is 21.
%, The elongation rate in the weft direction is 41%, which is less than the elongation rate of the fabric before processing, and the matte pattern does not disappear even if elasticity is repeatedly given, The outline was also clear. Further, the satin pattern imparted to this woven fabric was able to withstand repeated washing, and the desired stretchable woven fabric was obtained.

As Comparative Example 2, a woven fabric similar to that of Example 2 was prepared by using a urethane-based elastic yarn 40de / 4fil as the elastic yarn and a commercially available nylon filament yarn 40de / 12fil. The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 86 yarns / cm and a weft yarn density of 42 yarns / cm, an elongation ratio in the warp direction of 27% and an elongation ratio in the weft direction of 40%. The elongation after pressing the satin pattern in the same manner as in Example 2 was 18% in the warp direction and 33% in the weft direction, and the rate of decrease was large. Furthermore, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 had the durability of the pattern. The pattern was poor, and the pattern disappeared in a large amount due to repeated washing, and the pattern had almost no durability.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification symbol FI D01F 6/84 301 D01F 6/84 301H D02G 3/32 D02G 3/32 (72) Inventor Genji Nakayama 3 Amihara, Ibaraki City, Osaka Prefecture No.4-1, Teijin Limited Osaka Research Center (56) References JP-A-5-163633 (JP, A) JP-A-4-57938 (JP, A) JP-A-4-73241 (JP, A) JP-A-60-252747 (JP, A) JP-A-58-91819 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D03D 15/00 D03D 15/08 D06C 23/04 D01F 6/62 302 D01F 6/84 301

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A soft segment comprising polyester having a melting point of 50 ° C. or lower comprising phthalic acids as a main acid component and an aliphatic diol having 5 to 12 carbon atoms between hydroxyl groups as a main diol component, and a polybutylene polyester as a hard segment. Elastic yarn 2 made of block polyester
A woven / knitted material in which 30% by weight and 98 to 70% by weight of a polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber are mixed, wherein the surface of the woven / knitted material has an uneven pattern formed by pressing, and / or
Or a surface having a gloss difference pattern, wherein the woven or knitted fabric has an elasticity such that the elongation at 20 kg / cm load in at least one of the warp direction and the weft direction is 20 to 200%. Stretch woven or knitted fabric having a pattern.