JPH05148727A - Spun raw silk yarn and woven or knit fabric produced therefrom - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a woven or knit fabric having high air-content and excellent bulkiness, softness and heat-insulation while preventing the damage of fibroin and consequent generation of nep. CONSTITUTION:The spinning of raw silk yarn is carried out without removing sericin from short cut cocoon fiber. The woven or knit fabric is manufactured by spinning the spun raw silk yarn produced by spinning short cut cocoon fiber without removing sericin and weaving or knitting the fiber after removing sericin by degumming or removing the total or a part of sericin from a woven or knit fabric produced from the fiber without degumming.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a raw silk yarn which can be used as a raw material for clothing and non-clothes, and a knitted fabric using the raw silk yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art For spun silk yarn, sericin of cocoon yarn is removed by scouring to obtain short fibers, and then silk spun yarn produced through a spinning process, and cocoon short fibers excluding a part of sericin are spun,
There is silk spinning containing sericin in which residual sericin is fixed (insolubilized) by chemicals such as aldehydes. These silk spun yarns are directly woven and knitted and used as cloths for clothing materials.

Since the silk spinning process is repeated by hitting fibers, combing with a steel needle, and rubbing against each other, the sericin covering fibroin located at the center of the cocoon yarn was removed by scouring. Silk spun from cocoon yarn is directly impacted by the fibroin fiber in the above process, so the fibroin fiber is damaged by splitting, cutting, etc. to cause nep, impairing the appearance of the product,
There is a problem in that the tensile strength and frictional strength are reduced and the strength and durability of the product are impaired. In addition, silk spinning and knitted fabrics using the same have a low air content, and have low bulkiness, flexibility, and heat retention. Further, since the fiber from which sericin has been removed is used as a raw material, the problem that the strong twisted yarn cannot be twisted and a strong twisted yarn and a strong twisted yarn woven fabric cannot be formed remains.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the above points, the present invention provides a yarn that does not damage fibroin, produces no nep caused by it, and has a large air content. The purpose of the present invention is to obtain a knitted fabric having good bulkiness, flexibility and heat retention.

[0005]

[Means for Solving the Problems] Raw silk yarn is spun without removing sericin contained in cocoon yarn made into short fibers. A knitted fabric is a raw silk spun yarn spun without removing sericin contained in a cocoon yarn that has been made into a short fiber, and then weaving or knitting after removing sericin by scouring, or weaving or knitting without scouring and then sericin Excludes all or part.

The spun raw silk yarn is knitted or woven after removing all or part of the sericin in the scouring step as required, or after the knitting or weaving, all or part of the sericin in the scouring step in the form of knitted fabric or woven fabric. Except for, the gloss and texture peculiar to the knitted fabric or the woven fabric is developed.

[0007]

EXAMPLES Examples of the present invention will be described below.

As the raw material of the raw silk spinning yarn of the present invention, normal cocoon, scrap cocoon, pupa skin, Hisu, raw hide, 熨 口 yarn and the like are used as in the conventional silk spinning. The raw materials are not scoured in advance, the lumpy ones are separated, unraveled, and subjected to a silking mitigation work to remove adhering dust, etc., and further the fibers are made parallel by a cocoon opening machine or a silk opening machine. After the previous process such as aligning, spinning is carried out by an appropriate spinning machine such as a glass spinning machine and a ring spinning machine.

The raw silk spun yarn produced by spinning is scoured and refined to woven or knit a knitted fabric to make a knitted or knitted fabric, or it is woven or knitted without being scoured. After the soil is refined, it is knitted and woven. Examples will be shown below.

Example 1 (1) According to the cocoon assay method, one cocoon is boiled to make a cocoon yarn bundle so that the cocoon yarn does not stick. A cocoon yarn bundle with sericin attached is cut into about 5 cm pieces and made into cotton, and raw silk spun yarn composed of unrefined cocoon yarn using a ring spinning machine as web, sliver, and roving through the silk spinning process.
20th count (English style count, equivalent to 266d) was manufactured. (2) In order to understand the characteristics and applications of raw silk spinning, 3 pieces of the post-kneaded fabric were manufactured under the following conditions. <Woven fabric design> Warp Raw yarn 27d × 3, S150T / m Reed 24 / cm, pull-in 2 / wing 49.2cm Total number of warp 2400 Tissue plain weft (Table 1) Table 1 Composition of weft (Example 1) Woven code Type of weft Thread count No. 1 Raw silk spinning 20/1 (English style 20th) 18 / cm No. 2 Silk spinning yarn 2/120 (Metric type 120th count twin yarn) 18 / cm 2 Alignment No. 3 Raw yarn 27d × 4 (4 composite yarns in 27) 27 / cm <Scouring> The following formulation was carried out by the hanging kneading method. Prescription 1st time 2nd time Clewat K 0.4 (g / l) 0.4 (g / l) Marcel soap 3.0-Sodium carbonate 0.3-Monogen-1.0 Water glass 3.0 1.0 Score roll 400 0.5 0.5 Hydrosulfite 0.5 0.5 Volume 100 times 100 times Temperature 95 ℃ or more 95 ℃ or more Time 4 hours 4 hours Washing with water: Hot water 4 times, water 2 times Drying: tension Drying finish: Felt calendar finish (100 ℃) <Textile properties> Looking at the textile effect of raw silk spinning (Table 2),
The raw silk spun fabric has significantly more swelling and a smaller apparent specific gravity than conventional silk spun and raw silk fabrics.
It becomes a knitted fabric with a large pore volume and a warm and elastic feel. Table 2 Properties of woven fabric (Example 1) Symbol Weight (g / m ² ) Thickness (mm) Apparent specific gravity (g / m ³ ) Pore volume (%) No.1 76 0.273 0.278 79.4 No.2 64 0.200 0.320 76.3 No.3 64.5 0.159 0.408 69.8

Example 2 Cocoon fluff collected from a farmer was carded with sericin attached to form a web, and a raw silk yarn was prepared by the Japanese spinning method (gala spinning). <Properties of Raw Silk Spun> In order to study the weavability of the raw silk spun yarn, wet / dry yarn (wet yarn) and scoured yarn were made by the following method, and the properties (Table 3) were examined. Wetting treatment: Soaking in warm water (40 ° C) for about 1 hour, dehydration, and natural drying. Scouring method: Marcel soap 2g / l, anhydrous sodium carbonate
0.5g / l, bath ratio 1: 100, treatment 2 hours. The raw silk spun yarn has improved mechanical properties such as strength due to the cocoon yarn sericin that composes the yarn when wet and dried. This improves the weavability of the yarn by the moistening treatment,
It shows that it has the effect of stopping the twisting of the strongly twisted yarn. Moreover, when sericin was removed by scouring, the confounding property of the fibroin fiber was developed and the strength and the like were improved. Unscoured wet yarn is 18.2
It was possible to knit a circular knitted fabric without thread breakage, by demonstrating the weaving properties of both, by taking one G, one take-up yarn, and one take-up yarn for 20G. From this, it was found that the raw silk spun yarn is a spun yarn that can be used for both the post-kneaded woven fabric and the pre-kneaded woven fabric including the use of the strongly twisted yarn, like the raw silk. Table 3 Mechanical properties of raw silk spun yarn (Example 2) Item Raw yarn Wet yarn Knitting yarn Denier (d) 445 524 257 Count (Nm) 20.0 17.2 35.0 Kneading reduction (%) 47.34 − − Number of twists (T / m ) 389.4 − − Twist coefficient 2.81 − − Strength (g / d) 0.55 0.78 1.38 Elongation (%) 7.28 10.87 12.49 Initial tensile resistance (g / d) 8.24 9.14 12.97 Energy at break − (gcm) 236 531 486 Remark) Mechanical properties: Tensilon RTM-100, Test yarn length 200mm, Drawing speed 500mm / min, 20 ℃, 65% RH.

Example 3 Using silkworm fluff as a raw material, a raw silk spun yarn 20th count (meter type, equivalent to 450d) was produced by a Japanese spinning method and used for weaving. The warp yarn is a raw silk spun yarn, and the weft yarn is the same raw silk spun yarn as the warp yarn (No.
4), weaving ordinary silk spun yarn (No. 5) and ordinary silk spun silk yarn (No. 6), we made 3 prototypes of kneaded fabric after weaving. <Weaving conditions> Warp raw silk spun yarn 1/20, skein sizing: 8.5 / cm, pull-in 2 inserts, width: 96.7cm Total number of warp yarns: 1600 organization Twill weft (Table 4) Table 4 Weft (Examples) 3) Constitution Symbol Weft type Kind Count (/ cm) No.4 Raw silk spun yarn 1/20 (450d) 18 No.5 Silk spun yarn 72/2 (150d) Two draws aligned 24 No.6 Silk spun silk yarn 1 / 30 (300d) 20 <Scouring> Hanging kneading, soap soda method, bleaching, felt calendar
Finish. <Characteristics of Woven Fabric> (1) The raw silk spun yarn of the warp contains a large amount of sericin and is slightly rigid, so some yarn breakage occurred, but weaving proceeded without any problems. The unrefined raw fabric had different weight, thickness, and apparent specific gravity due to the influence of the count of the weft raw yarn. (Table 5) Table 5 Properties of raw machine (Example 3) Symbol Woven width (cm) Width shrinkage (%) Weight (g / m ² ) Thickness (mm) Apparent specific gravity (g / cm ³ ) No.4 90.0 6.9 193.5 0.69 0.280 No.5 89.5 7.4 176.8 0.56 0.316 No.6 88.3 8.7 165.5 0.69 0.240 (2) There was no abnormality in the width and length shrinkage due to scouring. Regarding kneading, the amount of sericin in cocoon fluff appeared in No. 4 as it was, but in No. 5 and No. 6, the weft had no sericin, so only the effect of warp was observed. (Table 6) Table 6 Effect of scouring on fabric (Example 3) Symbol Width shrinkage (%) Length shrinkage (%) Kneading reduction (%) No.4 0.9 0.4 44.16 No.5 2.6 0.9 25.01 No .6 0.3 1.0 26.91 (3) The apparent specific gravity of the finished woven fabric was No.4 <No.6 <No.5, and it was bulky and had a large pore volume because it contained a large amount of raw silk yarn. Raw silk spinning has the effect of making the post-kneaded fabric bulge and significantly increasing the air content. (Table 7) Table 7 Properties of finished woven fabric (Example 3) Table 2 Properties of woven fabric (Example 1) Symbol Weight (g / m ² ) Unit weight (m / m) Thickness (mm) Apparent specific gravity (g / m) ³ ) Pore volume (%) No.4 107.1 24.88 0.65 0.165 87.8 No.5 135.8 31.54 0.57 0.238 82.4 No.6 120.7 28.03 0.64 0.189 86.3

The effects of the raw silk spinning yarn and the raw kneading and post-weaving / knitting of the raw silk spinning yarn according to the present invention are as follows. (1) Since sericin, which tends to contain a large amount of water, remains,
It is difficult to be charged during the spinning process and spinning is easy. Even when a spinning oil agent is used, the effect of the oil agent is further increased. (2) Since no nep is generated due to fibroin fiber splitting, cutting, etc., there is no hindrance due to nep in the spinning process, and the appearance of yarns and woven / knitted fabrics is not deteriorated. (3) By completely removing sericin, gloss and texture peculiar to silk woven or knitted fabric can be exhibited, and the texture can be changed over a wide range by changing the extent to which sericin is removed. (4) Since sericin is removed by scouring from a yarn or a woven / knitted fabric, the air content of these can be increased, and a woven / knitted fabric with good bulkiness, flexibility and heat retention can be produced. (5) Due to the presence of sericin, it is possible to make a hard-twisted yarn by additional twisting.
It can be easily made from spun yarn. (6) By removing sericin, the count becomes larger than the spun yarn by removing sericin (the yarn becomes thinner). This can be seen as a type of weight loss processing. (7) A cocoon that is unsuitable as a raw silk material cocoon, such as an uncooled cocoon, can be used as a raw material. Of course, auxiliary silk thread such as cocoon, incision cocoon, scrap silk, etc. can be used as a raw material. (8) Unlike cocoon, which is a raw material for silk production, it is not subject to severe restrictions on unwinding, knotting, fineness of cocoon, etc. Therefore, it is possible to use cocoon of silkworm varieties which have been conventionally unsuitable as cocoons for silk production, and to cultivate silkworm varieties and Silkworm technology becomes easy.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A raw silk spun yarn characterized by being spun without removing sericin contained in a cocoon yarn which has been made into a short fiber. 2. A raw silk spun yarn obtained by spinning without removing sericin contained in a cocoon yarn made into short fibers is woven or knitted after removing the sericin by scouring, or woven or knitting without scouring. A knitted fabric made by removing all or part of sericin.