JPH0283309A - Creamy or milky lotion-like water-on-oil type emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject cosmetic, excellent in preservation stability and affinity for the skin and having refreshing feeling of use by using a water- soluble ascorbic acid derivative and a nonionic type surfactant having a specific HLB value in combination and containing a liquid oil and water therein. CONSTITUTION:A cosmetic in the form of creamy or milky lotion obtained by containing a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative (e.g., L-ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt), a nonionic type surfactant having <=10 HLB (e.g., sorbitan monolaurate), a liquid oil (e.g., liquid paraffin, isopropyl myristate or olive oil) and water. The above-mentioned cosmetic is excellent in preservation stability, mechanical stability and affinity for the skin, capable of providing refreshing feeling in use and further improved in skin beatifying effects with high usefulness.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) The present invention provides an improved cream or milky water-in-oil type (WO type) emulsified cosmetic, in particular, storage stability, mechanical stability, This invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic in the form of a cream or milky lotion, which has excellent affinity for the skin, gives a light feeling upon use, and has an excellent whitening effect.

(Prior art) Conventionally, as for creams, etc., the W10 type emulsion, in which water particles are contained in oil, is better than the 0/W type emulsion, in which oil particles are contained in 8 water. It is said to be superior in many respects, such as protecting the skin and maintaining flexibility.

However, the W10 type emulsion has some problems such as quality stability, and in order to improve its stability, the stability has been improved by increasing the amount of oil and increasing the viscosity. However, as a result, the cream has disadvantages such as being more sticky than necessary and oily. In addition, in order to improve oiliness, a method of freezing the amount of oil and adding a moisturizing agent has been adopted, but this method is not satisfactory in terms of affinity for the skin and stickiness. The current situation is that there is no.

On the other hand, when water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives are added to O/W type cream or emulsified cosmetics, they tend to deteriorate orally and cause discoloration and odor, making it difficult to obtain sufficient commercial value. is the current situation.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) As a result of intensive research aimed at improving the above-mentioned drawbacks, the present inventors found that water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives and It.
The W10 type emulsified cosmetic in the form of a cream or emulsion obtained by using a nonionic surfactant of L I31iα1O or less does not have excessive stickiness or oiliness when used, and gives a light application area. Excellent affinity for skin,
Moreover, it is storage stable.

The present invention was completed after discovering that it has excellent mechanical stability and appearance, and has all the characteristic advantages, such as excellent whitening effect due to its W2O type, and can be manufactured industrially and smoothly. .

The present invention is an improved W2O type cream or emulsion that has excellent long-term storage stability, mechanical stability, appearance, homogeneity, affinity for the skin, and whitening effect, and provides a light application area when used. The aim is to provide emulsified cosmetics.

(Means for solving the problem) The present invention provides a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative, 111, B
This is a cream or milky water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic containing a nonionic surfactant having a value of 10 or less, liquid oil, and water.

The configuration of the present invention will be explained in detail below.

The water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative used in the present invention is, for example, I7-ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt, which is a monovalent metal salt of L-ascorbic acid phosphate;
L-ascorbic acid phosphate potassium salt, divalent metal salt L-ascorbic acid phosphate magbutium salt, L-ascorbic acid phosphate calcium salt, trivalent metal salt L-ascorbic acid phosphate Ester aluminum salt, monovalent metal salt of 14-ascorbic acid sulfate, sodium salt of L-ascorbic acid sulfate, potassium salt of L-ascorbic acid sulfate, divalent metal salt, and magnesium salt of ascorbic acid sulfate. , ascorbic acid sulfate calcium salt, L-ascorbic acid sulfate aluminum salt which is a trivalent metal salt, and sodium monoascorbic acid which is a monovalent metal salt of L-ascorbic acid. ．．
Preferred examples include potassium l,-ascorbate, which is a divalent metal salt, magbicium ascorbate, calcium L-ascorbate, and aluminum L-ascorbate which is a trivalent metal salt, but are limited thereto. It is not something that will be done.

The content of the water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative is preferably 0,1-10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, the texture, gloss, etc. appearance, and stability of the cosmetic will tend to deteriorate <101
If it exceeds 1%, stability tends to decrease, which is not preferable.

Nonionic surfactants with an II L 13 value of 10 or less include, for example, sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbicun monostearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, sorbitan tristearate 1.5, sorbitan monostear Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monooleate [Sorbitan monoisostearate, glycerin fatty acid esters include glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate polyoxyethylene In the system, polyoxoethylene sorbitol hexastearate (6°E, 0.), polyoxyethylene sorbitotetraoleate (6°E, O,), polyquine ethylene monostearate (1,UE,, O,' ), polyoxyethylene monostearate (2,E,O,) polyoxyethylene monostearate (4,E.

0, ), polyoxyethylene monooleate (2°E,
,0. ), polyquine ethylene cetyl ether (2,B
, O,), polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (2, I7., O,), polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (4, E, O,), polyoxyethylene octylphenyl ether (3 ,E,
O, ), polyoxyethylene castor oil (3, E, 0.)
, polyoxyethylene castor oil (10,E,o,), polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (5,E,O,), polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor? 1JI(10,E, 0
．． ), polyoxyethylene sorbisotomilow (6,E
.

01)2, etc. can be mentioned as preferred examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. II LB (+
Those with u exceeding 10 are hydrophilic surfactants, which generally do not form W10 type emulsified cosmetics and are not suitable here.

Nonionic surfactants having an HL B value of 10 or less may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Its content is preferably 1 to 6% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 5% by weight. Generally, if it is less than 1% by weight, the emulsifying property and stability will be 5.
If the content exceeds 6% by weight, the stability tends to decrease, which is not preferable.

Liquid oils are oils that are liquid at room temperature, such as liquid paraffin, squalane, liquid synthetic ester oils (isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
Examples include octyldodesol myristate), vegetable oils (olive oil, soybean oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, etc.). However, it is not limited to these.

Li-body extract oils may be used alone or in combination of 241 or more. Its content is preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 30% by weight.

In general, if it is less than 5% by weight, it will not spread easily during use.
If it exceeds 7m1%, it tends to soften easily.

The water content is preferably 40 to 80% by weight, more preferably 50 to 70% by weight. If it is less than 40% by weight,
When using cosmetics, the feeling of dryness becomes poor, and the affinity for the skin becomes poor. If it exceeds 80% by weight, the emulsifying properties and the appearance of the cosmetic tend to deteriorate, which is not preferable.

In addition, in the present invention, which is a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic, it is possible to contain a relatively large amount of water by containing a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative in combination with a nonionic surfactant having an HL B value of 1O or less. The specificity of this effect is remarkable.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is a W2C type emulsion with a fine (homogeneous appearance), has excellent long-term storage stability, mechanical stability, etc., and does not cause excessive stickiness or oiliness during use. It provides a light and light application area, is easy to blend into the skin, has all the characteristics and advantages of W2C type and O/W type emulsion cosmetics, and has a whitening effect due to the W2C type. It has the uniqueness of being superior. Its excellent properties are due to the coexistence of water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives and HL [3
(It is also clear from the examples described later that this is due to the effect of the nonionic surfactant having a value of +W IO or less.

The excellent W10 type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be easily produced industrially, for example, by the production method (preparation method) described below.

The method is to stir and mix a mixed composition containing a nonionic surfactant with an IILB value of 10 or less and a liquid oil, and an aqueous solution of a water-soluble ascorbic f1M derivative. The temperature of the mixed composition containing a nonionic surfactant and liquid oil when stirring is about 70°C, and the temperature of the aqueous solution of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative when stirring is about 50°C. Moisturizers, fragrances, UV absorbers, preservatives, and pigments are used as necessary, but if used, the IILB value is 1.
Operationally, it is preferable to include it in a mixture of a nonionic surfactant of 0 or less and a liquid oil or in an aqueous solution of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative. When stirring and mixing the above-mentioned mixture and an aqueous solution, use a normal mixer or emulsifier such as a homomixer, stir and mix the main components while heating them to 40 to 85°C, and after emulsifying, gradually Cool to room temperature. Incense F1 etc. are added appropriately during the cold JJI process.

The W10 type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a long-term storage stability of 1
It has extremely high commercial value as it has excellent mechanical stability, appearance, homogeneity, and affinity for the skin, provides a light and pleasant feeling during use, and has an excellent whitening effect.

(Example) Examples will be described below. In the Examples, parts refer to parts by weight, and 1% refers to % by weight.

Storage stability test, skin color brightness recovery test described in Examples,
The methods for the sensory characteristics test are as follows.

[11 Storage Stability Test Test Sample 1 was placed in a constant temperature bath at 45°C, and after being left for 10 days, the emulsification state and appearance were observed. If any abnormalities were observed (if the ura separated, if the particles became coarse) ) If an abnormality is observed after being left for 1 month, it is represented by 0. If an abnormality is observed after being left for 3 months, it is represented by O. If no abnormality is observed after being left for 4 months (the emulsified state is If a uniform and homogeneous emulsion was formed), it was considered good and was marked with a ◎.

(2) Skin color brightness recovery test The back skin of 20 subjects was irradiated with ultraviolet rays in the UV-B region twice the minimum amount of erythema, and the reference brightness of each skin ( Vo value, ① o' value) were measured. Subsequently, test $4 was continuously applied to the application site twice a day for 3 months, and the skin brightness (Vn value, Vn' value) of the application site and non-application site was measured 3, 8, and 13 weeks later. Then, skin color recovery evaluation was performed according to the following criteria.

In addition, the brightness of the skin (Munsell color system ■ value) was calculated from the x, y, and z values obtained by measurement with a high-speed spectrocolorimeter. Moreover, the evaluation was shown as the average value of the evaluation scores of 20 test subjects after 13 weeks.

(3) Sensory properties during use Twenty subjects used the sample for 10 days and then evaluated the properties of the sample.

The test results were as follows for test items such as spreadability, viscosity, and affinity: ``Good spread during application,'' ``No sticky or slimy feeling,'' and ``Good affinity to the skin.'' It is shown by the number of people who

Examples 1-31. Comparative Examples 1 to 6 [Protective cream] Each W10 type protective cream was prepared by blending the type and amount of surfactant and type and amount of water-soluble ascorbin M derivative as shown in Table 1, as shown in Table 1. The samples were prepared and the various tests described above were conducted.

(1) Composition (2) Preparation method: Dissolve the powder uniformly at 70°C and B) at 50°C.
After pouring 2 tl of the above ingredients into a container and emulsifying and dispersing the mixture, the mixture is cooled to a temperature of 30°C while stirring.

(3) Properties Table 1 lists the results of testing the above-mentioned properties of each Example and Comparative Example.

As shown in Table 1, as a surfactant I (L B value I
Comparative Examples 1 to 3 using nonionic surfactants above O
However, the storage stability and sensory properties were poor (Comparative Example 4 using the anionic surfactant cetyl sulphate also had poor storage stability and sensory properties).

Furthermore, as is clear from Comparative Example 5, when monoascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt is not blended, the storage stability is poor and the sensory properties are also poor.

Furthermore, as is clear from Comparative Example 6, when no surfactant is blended, the storage stability is poor and the sensory properties are also poor.

On the other hand, Examples 1 to 31 of the present invention, in which 1 to 6% by weight of a nonionic surfactant with a HL B (fi of 10 or less) and 0.1 to 10% by weight of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative were used as emulsifier components, had good storage stability. , excellent sensory properties.

Example 32 (Skin Cream Composition) In a sensory test conducted by 20 subjects, 18 people answered that the skin felt smooth when used. The skin cream thus obtained was a W2O type emulsion, and had a fine-grained appearance, good water content, and was extremely stable even when stored indoors at 45° C. for 4 months.

Example 33 (Hand cream) (11 Composition (2) Preparation method The powder was uniformly dispersed at 70'C and tE at 50°C, and while stirring the powder, jBl was poured into the powder to emulsify and disperse.
(Prepare by adding q and cooling to a temperature of 30°C while stirring.

(3) Characteristics (2) Preparation method Dissolve the powder uniformly at 70°C and (B) at 50°C.
While stirring, pour tBl into the container to emulsify and disperse it, then add the ingredients (q) and cool to 30°C while stirring.
Make l.

(3) Characteristics In the sensory test I conducted by 20 subjects, 19 people answered that the feeling of use was sane.

The hand cream thus obtained is a W2O type emulsion, and even if it is stored indoors at 45°C for 4 months, it will remain unchanged even after being stored at 45°C for 4 months. Disperse uniformly at ℃ and do not stir the mixture.After pouring () into the mixture and emulsifying and dispersing it, (
Prepare by adding q and cooling to 30°C while stirring.

(3) Characteristics In a sensory test conducted by 20 test subjects, 19 people answered that the product felt smooth when used. The foundation cream thus obtained was a W7'0 type emulsion, with a fine and fine appearance (8) It was also water-based, had excellent makeup retention, and was extremely stable even when stored indoors at 45°C for 4 months.

Example 35 (skin milk) fi+ composition Prepare.

(3) Characteristics In a sensory test conducted by 20 subjects, 18 people answered that the feeling of use was pleasant.

The thus obtained skin milk was a W2O type emulsion (viscosity: 7,600 cps at room temperature) and remained stable even when stored indoors at 45°C for 3 months.

Example 36 Sunscreen cream fl+ Composition (2) Preparation method 70°C B) was uniformly dissolved at 50°C, and while stirring, the same was injected into the prisoner to emulsify and disperse. was added and cooled to a temperature of 30°C with stirring. 1) Made by Handaiwa Co., Ltd. 2) Made by Shibodan Co., Ltd. 3) Particle size 0. Ol ~0.
03 p m (2) Preparation method After boiling the mixture at 70 °C, ([31 was uniformly dissolved or mixed at 50°C, and while stirring the mixture, B) was poured into the mixture to emulsify it.) , (Add q and reduce the temperature to 3 while stirring.
Prepare by cooling to 0°C.

(3) Characteristics In a sensory test conducted by 20 test subjects, 18 people answered that the product felt smooth when used. The sunscreen cream thus obtained was a W10 type emulsion, had a fine appearance and good water resistance, and had a grade of 45
Stored in a room at ℃ for 4 months Example 37 Non-clean milk + 1) Composition ■) Manufactured by Sibodan (2) Preparation method Dissolve the 70'1 liter of the confectioners uniformly at 50℃ and pour them into the confectionery while stirring. After injecting and emulsifying and dispersing the same, the component Ω
The mixture is prepared by adding and cooling to a temperature of 30°C while stirring.

(3) Characteristics In a sensory test conducted by 20 test subjects, 17 people answered that the product felt smooth when used. The sunscreen milk thus obtained was a W2O type emulsion and was extremely stable even when stored indoors at 45°C for 4 months.

Examples 38 to 40 Comparative Examples 7 to 9 In the same manner as in Example I, W10 type skin creams were prepared with the composition (2) and a skin color brightness recovery test was conducted. In addition, 0/W type skin creams of Comparative Examples 7 to 9 were prepared with the composition (2), and a skin color brightness recovery test was conducted.

(1) Composition (2) Preparation method ■ Examples 38 to 40 (W10 type skin cream) Dissolve the powder uniformly at 70'C ([31] at 50°C, and while stirring the powder, ([3+] After pouring into the solution to make an emulsion of 11%, the mixture is cooled to a temperature of 30° C. with stirring.

■ Comparative Examples 7 to 9 (0/W type skin cream) 1q
To uniformly dissolve 0 and 70°C at 50°C, stir q and pour 0 into q to emulsify and disperse, then cool to 30°C while stirring.

(3) Properties The results of the skin color brightness recovery test for each Example and Comparative Example are listed in Table 2.

As shown in Table 2, Comparative Examples 7 to 9 in which 2 to 4% by weight of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative was blended into the 0/W type cream gave poor results in the skin color brightness recovery test. On the other hand, W1
Examples 38 to 40 of the present invention, in which 2 to 4% by weight of water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives were blended into the type 0 cream, had good results in the skin color brightness recovery test, especially when water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives -<'=' 8 # Ushio # [Effects of the Invention] As described above, the W10 type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has excellent storage stability, sensory characteristics during use, and whitening effect, and has
It is highly useful.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A cream or milky water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative, a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 10 or less, liquid oil, and water.