JP7411421B2 - cosmetics - Google Patents
cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP7411421B2 JP7411421B2 JP2020004874A JP2020004874A JP7411421B2 JP 7411421 B2 JP7411421 B2 JP 7411421B2 JP 2020004874 A JP2020004874 A JP 2020004874A JP 2020004874 A JP2020004874 A JP 2020004874A JP 7411421 B2 JP7411421 B2 JP 7411421B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- ceramide
- hlb value
- particle dispersion
- particles
- ceramides
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 119
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims description 108
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 104
- -1 Polyoxyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 47
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 claims description 31
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 30
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 30
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 28
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 28
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- 229940068065 phytosterols Drugs 0.000 claims description 23
- 125000005313 fatty acid group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 20
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 16
- CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L Magnesium sulfate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-][S+2]([O-])([O-])[O-] CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 14
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 12
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 229940043375 1,5-pentanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 11
- ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N N-oleoylphytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940099417 ceramide 2 Drugs 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940044176 ceramide 3 Drugs 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052943 magnesium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 235000019341 magnesium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 7
- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- BIVBRWYINDPWKA-VLQRKCJKSA-L Glycyrrhizinate dipotassium Chemical compound [K+].[K+].O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C=C4[C@@H]5C[C@](C)(CC[C@@]5(CC[C@@]4(C)[C@]3(C)CC[C@H]2C1(C)C)C)C(O)=O)C([O-])=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C([O-])=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O BIVBRWYINDPWKA-VLQRKCJKSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000001509 sodium citrate Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K sodium citrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 5
- 229960005078 sorbitan sesquioleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- NWGKJDSIEKMTRX-AAZCQSIUSA-N Sorbitan monooleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O NWGKJDSIEKMTRX-AAZCQSIUSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940101029 dipotassium glycyrrhizinate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940074052 glyceryl isostearate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940078752 magnesium ascorbyl phosphate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960002668 sodium chloride Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960001790 sodium citrate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002612 dispersion medium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960003390 magnesium sulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 91
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 description 80
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 description 80
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 80
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 80
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 14
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 10
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 9
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 8
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerol Natural products OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 description 7
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 7
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 6
- 150000005215 alkyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 4
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000001000 micrograph Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920002503 polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229940058015 1,3-butylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N N-(2-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-4-hydroxysphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920001214 Polysorbate 60 Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 235000004443 Ricinus communis Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229930182558 Sterol Natural products 0.000 description 3
- MIUIRGGKIICMBP-NFOZDHADSA-N [27-oxo-27-[[(2s,3s,4r)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]amino]heptacosyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC MIUIRGGKIICMBP-NFOZDHADSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000015784 hyperosmotic salinity response Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000004973 liquid crystal related substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 3
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZFGOPJASRDDARH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[[10,13-dimethyl-17-(6-methylheptan-2-yl)-2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17-dodecahydro-1h-cyclopenta[a]phenanthren-3-yl]oxy]-10,13-dimethyl-17-(6-methylheptan-2-yl)-2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17-dodecahydro-1h-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene Chemical compound C12CCC3(C)C(C(C)CCCC(C)C)CCC3C2CC=C(C2)C1(C)CCC2OC1CC2=CCC3C4CCC(C(C)CCCC(C)C)C4(C)CCC3C2(C)CC1 ZFGOPJASRDDARH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IEZRNEGTKRQRFV-LFBNJJMOSA-N N-octadecanoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC IEZRNEGTKRQRFV-LFBNJJMOSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940048864 ceramide 1 Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 2
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 2
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
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- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- QYIXCDOBOSTCEI-QCYZZNICSA-N (5alpha)-cholestan-3beta-ol Chemical compound C([C@@H]1CC2)[C@@H](O)CC[C@]1(C)[C@@H]1[C@@H]2[C@@H]2CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]2(C)CC1 QYIXCDOBOSTCEI-QCYZZNICSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UITSPQLTFPTHJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[[3,4,5-tris(2-hydroxyethoxy)-6-methoxyoxan-2-yl]methoxy]ethanol Chemical compound COC1OC(COCCO)C(OCCO)C(OCCO)C1OCCO UITSPQLTFPTHJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-ethylhexoxy)propane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COCC(O)CO NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- ZEHFBSPKWJAHQQ-KNOOOGQZSA-N C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)\C(=C(\CCCCCCCCCCCCC)/O)\O Chemical compound C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)\C(=C(\CCCCCCCCCCCCC)/O)\O ZEHFBSPKWJAHQQ-KNOOOGQZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- WAYLDHLWVYQNSQ-KEFDUYNTSA-N N-2-hydroxylignoceroylsphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)\C=C\CCCCCCCCCCCCC WAYLDHLWVYQNSQ-KEFDUYNTSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
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- MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-RMMQSMQOSA-N Raffinose Natural products O(C[C@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O[C@@]2(CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O1)[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-RMMQSMQOSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- ZGBFGAHZKZQSLG-UMCOJZBLSA-N [30-oxo-30-[[(e,2s,3r,6r)-1,3,6-trihydroxyoctadec-4-en-2-yl]amino]triacontyl] (9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC ZGBFGAHZKZQSLG-UMCOJZBLSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229930014626 natural product Natural products 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)O UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 239000001818 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011814 protection agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-ZQSKZDJDSA-N raffinose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO[C@@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O1 MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-ZQSKZDJDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000036556 skin irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000475 skin irritation Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 231100000245 skin permeability Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 238000005063 solubilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003381 solubilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229950011392 sorbitan stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003410 sphingosines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002123 temporal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、セラミドを含有した、化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to cosmetics containing ceramide.
セラミドは、皮膚の角質細胞間脂質の構成成分のひとつである。このため、皮膚バリア機能改善や保湿改善を目的として化粧料や皮膚外用剤に積極的に配合したい成分である。しかしながらセラミドは水や油に難溶性を示すことから化粧料を調製する際に結晶化を起こしたり、経時的に結晶が析出したりする問題があった。このため各社、その配合には様々な工夫がなされており、主にセラミドを可溶化させてそのまま或いは乳化させて化粧料中で安定性を高めた技術、セラミドを液晶組成物として化粧料中で安定性を高めた技術が開示されている。 Ceramide is one of the components of interkeratinocyte lipids in the skin. For this reason, it is an ingredient that should be actively incorporated into cosmetics and skin external preparations for the purpose of improving skin barrier function and moisturizing. However, since ceramides are poorly soluble in water and oil, there have been problems in that they may crystallize during the preparation of cosmetics or that crystals may precipitate over time. For this reason, various companies have devised various ways to formulate their formulations.The main techniques are to solubilize ceramides and improve their stability in cosmetics by either directly or emulsifying them, and by using ceramides as liquid crystal compositions in cosmetics. A technique with increased stability has been disclosed.
例えば、特許文献1には、セラミド、油性成分、非イオン性界面活性剤及び水を含有し、O/Wエマルションの平均粒径が、100nm~300nmである、優れた経時安定性の半透明化粧料が開示されている。この技術は、セラミドを含有するO/W乳化型の化粧料であって、界面活性剤の配合量を減少させながらも、経時安定性に優れ、しかも視覚的な美しさや高級感を与えることのできる半透明化粧料を提供することを課題としている。そして油性成分として、ステアリン酸、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、ベヘン酸、イソステアリン酸、オレイン酸等の脂肪酸類が挙げられ、非イオン性界面活性剤として、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンコレステリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンフィトステリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルフェニルエーテル、アルキルグルコシドが挙げられている。
また、特許文献2には、HLBが9~20の範囲にある非イオン性界面活性剤、及び液状の多価アルコールを用いることを特徴とするセラミドの可溶化方法、皮膚外用剤の技術が開示されている。この技術は、セラミドの結晶析出のない透明製剤を得ることを課題としている。そして、非イオン性界面活性剤としてポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレン共重合体、ポリオキシエチレンフィトステロール、10ポリオキシエチレンフィトスタノール、ポリオキシエチレンコレスタノール、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテルが挙げられ、多価アルコールとしてプロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコールが挙げられている。
また、特許文献3では、(a)セラミド類0.00001-1.0質量%、(b)非イオン性界面活性剤0.1-1.0質量%、(c)ヘキサンジオールまたはペンタンジオール0.1-5.0質量%、および(d)水50.0質量%以上を含有し、(a)セラミド類を安定に可溶化し透明であることを特徴とする化粧水の技術が開示されている。皮膚刺激性等の問題が生じず、使用感に優れ、特に、可溶化に必要な成分の配合量をできるだけ少量にした化粧水と説明されている。そして、非イオン性界面活性剤として、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンステロール・水素添加ステロール、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルおよびポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステルが挙げられている。
また、特許文献4には、(A)HLB値が4~7であり、25℃で液状で、グリセリル基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤0.005~1質量%、(B)数平均分子量2000~200000のポリエチレングリコール0.01~10質量%、(C)エタノール5~50質量%、(D)冷感剤、温感剤、殺菌剤、制汗剤、収斂剤、消臭剤、美白剤、セラミド類、抗炎症剤、血行促進剤、紫外線防御剤、酸化防止剤及び粉体から選ばれる1種又は2種以上の有効成分、(E)水を含有する皮膚化粧料、の技術が開示されている。
また、特許文献5には、(A)セラミド、グルコシルセラミド、ガラクトシルセラミドおよび長鎖スフィンゴイド塩基から選ばれた少なくとも1種の化合物0.5~10重量%、(B)多価アルコール78~97重量%、ならびに(C)ステロール系化合物2~12重量%を含有してなる液晶組成物、該液晶組成物が0.1~30重量%配合されてなる皮膚化粧料、の技術が開示されている。
For example, Patent Document 1 describes a translucent makeup with excellent temporal stability that contains ceramide, an oily component, a nonionic surfactant, and water and has an O/W emulsion with an average particle size of 100 nm to 300 nm. Fees are disclosed. This technology is an O/W emulsion type cosmetic containing ceramide, which has excellent stability over time while reducing the amount of surfactant, and provides visual beauty and a luxurious feel. Our goal is to provide translucent cosmetics that can The oily components include fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid, and the nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether, alkyl Glucosides are mentioned.
Furthermore, Patent Document 2 discloses a method for solubilizing ceramide and a technology for an external preparation for skin, characterized by using a nonionic surfactant with an HLB in the range of 9 to 20, and a liquid polyhydric alcohol. has been done. The objective of this technology is to obtain a transparent preparation without ceramide crystal precipitation. Nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer, polyoxyethylene phytosterol, 10 polyoxyethylene phytostanol, and polyoxyethylene. Examples include cholestanol and polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, and examples of polyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol.
Further, in Patent Document 3, (a) 0.00001-1.0% by mass of ceramides, (b) 0.1-1.0% by mass of nonionic surfactant, (c) 0.1-5.0% by mass of hexanediol or pentanediol, and (d ) A technology has been disclosed for a lotion that contains 50.0% by mass or more of water, stably solubilizes (a) ceramides, and is transparent. It is described as a lotion that does not cause problems such as skin irritation, has an excellent feeling of use, and in particular contains as few ingredients as possible for solubilization. As nonionic surfactants, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterol/hydrogenated sterol, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters.
Further, Patent Document 4 describes (A) a nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 4 to 7, liquid at 25°C and having a glyceryl group, (B) a number average molecular weight of 0.005 to 1% by mass; 2000-200000 polyethylene glycol 0.01-10% by mass, (C) ethanol 5-50% by mass, (D) cooling agent, warming agent, disinfectant, antiperspirant, astringent, deodorant, whitening agent The technology of skin cosmetics containing one or more active ingredients selected from agents, ceramides, anti-inflammatory agents, blood circulation promoters, ultraviolet protection agents, antioxidants and powders, and (E) water. Disclosed.
Further, Patent Document 5 describes (A) 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one compound selected from ceramide, glucosylceramide, galactosylceramide, and long chain sphingoid base, (B) polyhydric alcohol 78 to 97% by weight. % by weight, and a liquid crystal composition containing 2 to 12% by weight of (C) a sterol compound, and a skin cosmetic containing 0.1 to 30% by weight of the liquid crystal composition. There is.
一方、白濁した低粘度の化粧料は、高級感がある化粧水として消費者のニーズが高い。 On the other hand, cloudy, low-viscosity cosmetics are in high demand among consumers as a luxury-looking lotion.
本発明は、セラミド類又はフィトステロールを含有した安定な化粧料を提供することを課題とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic containing ceramides or phytosterols.
本発明は、(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と、(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油と、(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上と、(D)水と、(E)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールとを含有する化粧料用組成物、該化粧料用組成物を含む化粧料である。水に難溶性の(E)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールを、(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上の溶剤に溶解し、さらに界面活性剤(A)及び(B)と混合溶解し、その混合物を水に添加すると、(E)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールが界面活性剤(A)及び(B)と共に粒子(以下セラミド粒子と呼ぶ)となって、(D)水に分散し、得られた組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)は高温(50℃、一か月)環境下に保管後も結晶の析出がなく、油浮き等もない優れた安定性の化粧料用組成物となる。本発明のセラミド粒子の粒径は100~250nmであり、セラミド粒子分散物である化粧料用組成物を透明容器に入れたときの外観は白濁して見える。油を実質的に含まない組成で得られる本発明のセラミド粒子は長期間経過後も極めて安定であり、塩類の存在下でも安定である。セラミド粒子分散物である化粧料用組成物にさらに塩類を添加しても安定であることから、該化粧料用組成物を含有した化粧料もセラミドの結晶が析出することなく安定性に優れた化粧料となる。本発明の化粧料用組成物にさらに任意成分を添加して調製した化粧料、あらかじめ調製した化粧料(化粧水、乳液、クリーム、ジェル等)に添加剤として本発明の化粧料組成物を配合した化粧料のいずれも本発明の範囲に含まれる。
本発明は以下の構成である。
(1)以下の(A)~(E)を含有する化粧料用組成物。
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上
(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロール
(E)水
(2)(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤が、セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタン、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン、オレイン酸ソルビタンおよびイソステアリン酸グリセリルから選ばれる一以上を含むものである(1)に記載の化粧料用組成物。
(3)(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の配合比率が、1:4~3:2である(1)または(2)に記載の化粧料用組成物。
(4)(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の合計配合量が、化粧料用組成物当たり1~2質量%である(1)~(3)のいずれかに記載の化粧料用組成物。
(5)(D)セラミド類が、セラミド2またはセラミド3を含むものである(1)~(4)のいずれかに記載の化粧料用組成物。
(6)B型粘度計(1号ローター、60回転/分、30秒、25℃)を用いて測定した粘度が100mPa・s以下である(1)~(5)のいずれかに記載の化粧料用組成物。
(7)油を実質的に含有しない(1)~(6)のいずれかに記載の化粧料用組成物。
(8)(1)~(7)のいずれかに記載の化粧料用組成物を含有する化粧料。
(9)さらに(F)塩類を含有する(8)に記載の化粧料。
(10)(F)塩類が、塩化ナトリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム、アスコルビルリン酸マグネシウム、およびクエン酸ナトリウムから選ばれる一以上である(9)に記載の化粧料。
(11)下記(A)~(D)を含有し、(E)水と共に、(D):〔(A)+(B)〕が1:20~1:4であり、〔(A)+(B)+(D)〕:(C)が1:7~1:1.5であり、(A):(B)が1:4~3:2の比率で調製したセラミド粒子。
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上
(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロール
The present invention uses (A) a nonionic surfactant having a fatty acid group having a branched or unsaturated bond with an HLB value of 4 to 8, and (B) polyoxyethylene with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. A composition for cosmetics containing hydrogenated castor oil, (C) one or more selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and ethanol, (D) water, and (E) ceramides and/or phytosterols. and a cosmetic containing the cosmetic composition. (E) ceramides and/or phytosterols that are sparingly soluble in water are dissolved in (C) one or more solvents selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and ethanol, and then surfactant (A) and When mixed and dissolved with (B) and the mixture is added to water, (E) ceramides and/or phytosterols together with surfactants (A) and (B) become particles (hereinafter referred to as ceramide particles). D) The composition obtained by dispersing in water (ceramide particle dispersion) has excellent stability with no crystal precipitation and no oil floating even after storage in a high temperature environment (50°C, one month). It becomes a composition for cosmetics. The particle size of the ceramide particles of the present invention is 100 to 250 nm, and when a cosmetic composition containing a ceramide particle dispersion is placed in a transparent container, the appearance appears cloudy. The ceramide particles of the present invention, which are obtained with a composition substantially free of oil, are extremely stable even after a long period of time, and are also stable in the presence of salts. Since the cosmetic composition, which is a ceramide particle dispersion, is stable even when salts are added, the cosmetic composition containing the cosmetic composition also has excellent stability without precipitation of ceramide crystals. It becomes a cosmetic. Cosmetics prepared by further adding optional ingredients to the cosmetic composition of the present invention, or blending the cosmetic composition of the present invention as an additive into previously prepared cosmetics (lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, etc.) Any of these cosmetics are included within the scope of the present invention.
The present invention has the following configuration.
(1) A cosmetic composition containing the following (A) to (E).
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4-8 (B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13-16.5 (C) One or more selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and ethanol (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols (E) water (2) (A) a branched or unsaturated bond with an HLB value of 4 to 8; The cosmetic composition according to (1), wherein the nonionic surfactant having a fatty acid group contains one or more selected from sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, and glyceryl isostearate.
(3) (A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8, and (B) polyoxyethylene hardened castor with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. The cosmetic composition according to (1) or (2), wherein the blending ratio of oil is 1:4 to 3:2.
(4) (A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8, and (B) polyoxyethylene hardened castor with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the total amount of oil blended is 1 to 2% by mass based on the cosmetic composition.
(5) The cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the ceramide (D) contains ceramide 2 or ceramide 3.
(6) The makeup according to any one of (1) to (5), which has a viscosity of 100 mPa·s or less when measured using a B-type viscometer (No. 1 rotor, 60 rotations/min, 30 seconds, 25°C). Food composition.
(7) The cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (6), which does not substantially contain oil.
(8) A cosmetic containing the cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (7).
(9) The cosmetic according to (8), further containing (F) salts.
(10) The cosmetic according to (9), wherein the salt (F) is one or more selected from sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium citrate.
(11) Contains the following (A) to (D), together with (E) water, (D):[(A)+(B)] is 1:20 to 1:4, and [(A)+ (B)+(D)]: Ceramide particles prepared in a ratio of (C) from 1:7 to 1:1.5 and a ratio of (A):(B) from 1:4 to 3:2.
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8. (B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. One or more (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and ethanol
本発明の化粧料用組成物は、セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールが水あるいはジプロピレングリコールなどの溶剤を含む水に、異なるHLB値の界面活性剤(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤、(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油と共に安定に粒子として分散した組成物である。本発明の化粧料用組成物は100mPa・s以下の低粘性であるが、特に水溶性高分子等を配合して組成物を増粘しなくても、各温度帯(5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)で1か月保管後も安定である。本発明の化粧料用組成物は白濁しており高級感のある外観である。またセラミド類および/またはフィトステロールが高配合されたことによる優れた保湿効果を有する。本発明の化粧料用組成物は、さっぱりとした使用感でありながら保湿効果を有するので、そのままで化粧料とすることができ、特に白濁した化粧水として最適である。また本発明の化粧料用組成物は、耐塩性が高いことが特徴である。本発明の構成(A+B+C+D+E)から得られるセラミド類および/またはフィトステロールを含有したセラミド粒子は、塩類が存在した化粧料中でも壊れたり、凝集したり、セラミドの結晶析出が生じたりしないので、化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)にグリチルリチン酸ジカリウムやアスコルビルリン酸マグネシウム、塩化ナトリウムなどの一般的に化粧料に好ましく配合される塩類を、比較的自由に配合することができる。本発明の化粧料用組成物を用いて化粧料の処方のバリエーション化が期待できる。
本発明のセラミド粒子分散物は、通常の乳化設備(パドルミキサー)で十分に粒子径の整ったものが調製でき、高圧ホモジェナイザーなどの特別な装置を必要としない点もメリットが高い。
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, ceramides and/or phytosterols are added to water or water containing a solvent such as dipropylene glycol, (A) a surfactant having a different HLB value, a branched surfactant having an HLB value of 4 to 8, This composition is stably dispersed as particles together with a nonionic surfactant having a fatty acid group having an unsaturated bond and (B) polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. Although the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a low viscosity of 100 mPa·s or less, it can be used in various temperature ranges (5°C, 25°C, It is stable even after storage for one month at 40°C, 50°C, -5°C and 45°C cycles/24 hours). The cosmetic composition of the present invention is cloudy and has a luxurious appearance. It also has an excellent moisturizing effect due to the high content of ceramides and/or phytosterols. The cosmetic composition of the present invention has a moisturizing effect while having a refreshing feel, so it can be used as a cosmetic as it is, and is particularly suitable as a cloudy lotion. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by high salt tolerance. The ceramide particles containing ceramides and/or phytosterols obtained from the configuration (A+B+C+D+E) of the present invention do not break down, aggregate, or cause ceramide crystal precipitation even in cosmetics containing salts. Salts that are generally preferably incorporated into cosmetics, such as dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium chloride, can be relatively freely blended into the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion). By using the cosmetic composition of the present invention, variations in cosmetic formulations can be expected.
The ceramide particle dispersion of the present invention has the advantage that it can be prepared with a sufficiently uniform particle size using ordinary emulsification equipment (paddle mixer), and does not require special equipment such as a high-pressure homogenizer.
本発明の化粧料用組成物に配合する必須成分について説明する。
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
本発明の(A)成分は、HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤である。分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する脂肪酸ソルビタン、モノ脂肪酸グリセリルを例示できる。具体的には、セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタン、セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン、オレイン酸ソルビタンおよびイソステアリン酸グリセリルを例示できる。セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタンの市販品としては、コスモール182V(日清オイリオグループ(株)製、HLB4)、NIKKOL SS-15V(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB4.2)、EMALEX SP15-150(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB6)が例示できる。セスキオレイン酸ソルビタンの市販品としては、コスモール82(日清オイリオグループ(株)製、HLB5)、NIKKOL SO-15V(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB4)、レオドール AO-15V(花王(株)製、HLB4.7)が例示できる。オレイン酸ソルビタンの市販品としては、レオドール AO-10V(花王(株)製、HLB4.3)、NIKKOL SO-10V(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB4.3)、EMALEX SPO-100(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB8)が例示できる。イソステアリン酸グリセリルの市販品としては、EMALEX GWIS-100EX(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB6)が例示できる。
非イオン性界面活性剤のアルキル基が分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸であることは、本発明のセラミド粒子の膜の流動性を高めるので好ましい。膜の流動性が高いと皮膚への浸透性の向上がより期待できるので好ましい。
The essential ingredients to be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the present invention will be explained.
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a fatty acid group having a branched or unsaturated bond having an HLB value of 4 to 8. Component (A) of the present invention is a nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond having an HLB value of 4 to 8. It is a nonionic surfactant with a fatty acid group. Examples include fatty acid sorbitan and monofatty acid glyceryl having a fatty acid group having a branched or unsaturated bond. Specific examples include sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, and glyceryl isostearate. Commercial products of sorbitan sesquiisostearate include Cosmol 182V (manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd., HLB4), NIKKOL SS-15V (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB4.2), EMALEX SP15-150 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB6) can be exemplified. Commercial products of sorbitan sesquioleate include Cosmol 82 (manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd., HLB5), NIKKOL SO-15V (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB4), and Rheodol AO-15V (manufactured by Kao Corporation, HLB4). .7) can be exemplified. Commercially available sorbitan oleate products include Rheodor AO-10V (manufactured by Kao Corporation, HLB4.3), NIKKOL SO-10V (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals, HLB4.3), and EMALEX SPO-100 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd.). HLB8) can be exemplified. An example of a commercially available glyceryl isostearate product is EMALEX GWIS-100EX (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB6).
It is preferable that the alkyl group of the nonionic surfactant be a fatty acid having a branch or unsaturated bond, since this increases the fluidity of the membrane of the ceramide particles of the present invention. It is preferable that the membrane has high fluidity because it is expected to improve skin permeability.
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
本発明の(B)成分は、HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油である。具体的には、PEG-100水添ヒマシ油、PEG-80水添ヒマシ油、PEG-60水添ヒマシ油、PEG-50水添ヒマシ油を例示できる。PEG-100水添ヒマシ油の市販品としては、NIKKOL HCO-100(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB16.5)、EMALEX HC-100(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB15)が例示できる。PEG-80水添ヒマシ油の市販品としては、NIKKOL HCO-80(日光ケミカルルズ社製、HLB15)、EMALEX HC-80(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB15)が例示できる。PEG-60水添ヒマシ油の市販品としては、NIKKOL HCO-60(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB14)、EMALEX HC-60(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB14)が例示できる。PEG-50水添ヒマシ油の市販品としては、NIKKOL HCO-50(日光ケミカルズ社製、HLB13.5)、EMALEX HC-50(日本エマルジョン社製、HLB13)が例示できる。本発明の(B)成分は、HLB値が14~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油がより好ましく、HLB値が15~16.5のポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油がより一層好ましい。
(B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 13 to 16.5 The component (B) of the present invention is polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. Specific examples include PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil. Examples of commercial products of PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil include NIKKOL HCO-100 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals, HLB 16.5) and EMALEX HC-100 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB 15). Examples of commercial products of PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil include NIKKOL HCO-80 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB15) and EMALEX HC-80 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB15). Examples of commercial products of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil include NIKKOL HCO-60 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB14) and EMALEX HC-60 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB14). Examples of commercial products of PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil include NIKKOL HCO-50 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB 13.5) and EMALEX HC-50 (manufactured by Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd., HLB 13). Component (B) of the present invention is more preferably polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 14 to 16.5, even more preferably polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 15 to 16.5.
本発明の(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油は、後述する(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールの配合量に応じて適宜設定してよい。化粧料用組成物をそのまま化粧料とする場合は、(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油は、合計量で化粧料用組成物全量に対し、1~2質量%含有すると好ましい。この範囲であるとべたつきを生じないので好ましい。 (A) a nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group having an HLB value of 4 to 8; and (B) polyoxyethylene hardened castor having an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. The oil may be appropriately set depending on the blending amount of (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols, which will be described later. When the cosmetic composition is used as a cosmetic as it is, (A) a nonionic surfactant having a fatty acid group having a branched or unsaturated bond with an HLB value of 4 to 8, and (B) an HLB value of 13. The total amount of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having a molecular weight of 16.5 to 16.5 is preferably 1 to 2% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. This range is preferable because it does not cause stickiness.
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤と(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の配合比率が、1:4~3:2であると好ましい。この範囲を外れると、セラミド粒子のサイズにばらつきが生じ、凝集が生じやすくなり、化粧料用組成物の安定性が低下する恐れが高まる。(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤:(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の配合比率(A):(B)が1:4~3:2が好ましく、2:3~3:2であるとより好ましく、1:1の時が最も安定となり好ましい。 A combination of (A) a nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8, and (B) polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. Preferably, the ratio is 1:4 to 3:2. Outside this range, the ceramide particles will vary in size, tend to aggregate, and the stability of the cosmetic composition will likely decrease. (A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8; (B) A blend of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. The ratio (A):(B) is preferably 1:4 to 3:2, more preferably 2:3 to 3:2, and 1:1 is most stable and preferred.
本発明の(C)成分は、ジプロピレングリコール(表示名称:DPG)、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上である。界面活性剤(A)、(B)および後述する(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールを溶解する目的で配合する。(C)成分の大半は、調製後に(E)水と共に分散媒となるが、(C)成分の一部は形成されたセラミド粒子の内水相にも含まれると考えられる。皮膚への安全性(低刺激性)を考慮すると、ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコールが好ましい。(C)成分の配合量は、合計量で化粧料用組成物全量に対し1.5~19質量%が好ましく、3~12質量%がより好ましく、5~10質量%がより一層好ましい。 Component (C) of the present invention is one or more selected from dipropylene glycol (display name: DPG), pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and ethanol. Surfactants (A), (B) and (D), which will be described later, are blended for the purpose of dissolving ceramides and/or phytosterols. Although most of component (C) becomes a dispersion medium together with (E) water after preparation, it is thought that a part of component (C) is also contained in the internal aqueous phase of the formed ceramide particles. Considering safety to the skin (hypoallergenicity), dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol are preferred. The total amount of component (C) is preferably 1.5 to 19% by weight, more preferably 3 to 12% by weight, and even more preferably 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
本発明の(D)成分は、セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールである。化粧料として用いられるものであれば合成物、天然物のいずれも使用可能である。セラミド類としてはセラミド6、セラミド5、セラミド4、セラミト3、セラミド2、セラミド1が好ましく例示できる。市販品としては、セラミド6;(コスモファーム社製、CeramidoVI、N-2-ヒドロキシステアロイルフィトスフィンゴシン)、セラミド3;(コスモファーム社製、CeramidoIII、N-ステアロイルフィトスフィンゴシン)、セラミド3;(コスモファーム社製、CeramidoIIIA、N-リノレオイルフィトスフィンゴシン)、セラミド3;(コスモファーム社製、CeramidoIIIB、N-オレオイルフィトスフィンゴシン)、セラミド2;(高砂香料工業株式会社製、セラミドTIC-001、N-ステアロイルジヒドロキシスフィンゴシン)、セラミド1;(コスモファーム社製、セラミドI、N-(27-オクタデカノイルオキシ-ヘプタコサノイル)-フィトスフィンゴシン)、フィトステロールズ;(タマ生化学株式会社製、フィトステロールS、フィトステロール90%以上)が例示できる。セラミド2、セラミド3、フィトステロールが好ましい。(D)成分は、合計量で化粧料用組成物全量に対し0.05~0.7質量%含有すると好ましく、0.2~0.5質量%含有するとより好ましい。 Component (D) of the present invention is ceramides and/or phytosterols. Both synthetic and natural products can be used as long as they are used as cosmetics. Preferred examples of ceramides include ceramide 6, ceramide 5, ceramide 4, ceramide 3, ceramide 2, and ceramide 1. Commercially available products include Ceramide 6 (manufactured by Cosmo Farm, Ceramido VI, N-2-hydroxystearoylphytosphingosine), Ceramide 3 (manufactured by Cosmo Farm, Ceramido III, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine), Ceramide 3 (manufactured by Cosmo Farm, Ceramido III, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine), (manufactured by Cosmo Farm, Ceramido IIIB, N-oleoylphytosphingosine), Ceramide 2; (manufactured by Takasago International Co., Ltd., Ceramide TIC-001, N -stearoyldihydroxysphingosine), Ceramide 1; (CosmoPharm Co., Ltd., Ceramide I, N-(27-octadecanoyloxy-heptacosanoyl)-phytosphingosine), Phytosterols; (Tama Biochemical Co., Ltd., Phytosterol S, Phytosterol 90% or more). Ceramide 2, ceramide 3, and phytosterols are preferred. Component (D) is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 0.7% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 0.5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)は、安定であるため化粧品原料としてストックすることができる。ストックとする場合には、(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールの配合量を前記した2~3倍量の1~1.5質量%とし、特定の比率「(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤:(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の配合比率(A):(B)が1:4~3:2」となるように、(A)成分と(B)成分を増量して調製できる。 The cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention is stable and can be stocked as a cosmetic raw material. When making a stock, the blending amount of (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols is 1 to 1.5% by mass of the above-mentioned 2 to 3 times the amount, and the specific ratio ``(A) HLB value is 4 to 8. A nonionic surfactant having a branched fatty acid group: (B) polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil having an HLB value of 13 to 16.5 in a blending ratio (A): (B) of 1:4 to 3: 2" by increasing the amounts of component (A) and component (B).
(E)水
本発明の化粧料用組成物は、セラミド粒子が(E)水に分散したものである。本発明において(E)水は必須である。水の配合量は適宜設定してよいが、化粧料用組成物全量に対し50質量%以上、より好ましくは70質量%以上が好ましい。
(E) Water In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, ceramide particles are dispersed in (E) water. In the present invention, (E) water is essential. The amount of water blended may be set as appropriate, but it is preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
(F)塩類
本発明の化粧料用組成物は耐塩性が高い。本発明の化粧料用組成物、該化粧料用組成物を配合した化粧料には、通常化粧料に配合可能な成分(塩類)を、安定性の確認を頻回に行うことなく安心して配合することができる。(F)塩類としては、塩化ナトリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム、アスコルビルリン酸マグネシウム、クエン酸ナトリウム等を例示できる。
(F) Salt The cosmetic composition of the present invention has high salt tolerance. The cosmetic composition of the present invention and cosmetics containing the cosmetic composition can be safely blended with ingredients (salts) that can be blended into cosmetics without frequent stability checks. can do. (F) Examples of the salts include sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium citrate.
(製法)
(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールを、(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上の溶剤に溶解し、さらに界面活性剤(A)及び(B)と混合してすべてを溶解させ、その混合物を(E)水に添加すると、(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロールが界面活性剤(A)及び(B)と共に粒子(以下セラミド粒子と呼ぶ)となって、(E)水に分散し、セラミド粒子分散物(化粧料用組成物)となる。(D)、(C)、(A)、(B)を一度に加熱混合し、それを別容器で加熱した(E)に投入してもよい。加熱温度は80~90℃が好ましく、85℃~90℃がより好ましい。攪拌は500リットル調製時で20~40rpmのパドルミキサーによる攪拌でセラミド粒子が形成される。
(Manufacturing method)
(D) Ceramides and/or phytosterols are dissolved in (C) one or more solvents selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and ethanol, and further mixed with surfactants (A) and (B). When the mixture is added to (E) water, (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols become particles (hereinafter referred to as ceramide particles) together with surfactants (A) and (B). , (E) Dispersed in water to form a ceramide particle dispersion (cosmetic composition). (D), (C), (A), and (B) may be heated and mixed at once, and then added to (E) heated in a separate container. The heating temperature is preferably 80 to 90°C, more preferably 85 to 90°C. Stirring is performed using a paddle mixer at 20 to 40 rpm when preparing 500 liters to form ceramide particles.
(粘度)
本発明の化粧料用組成物を、B型粘度計(1号ローター、30回転/分、30秒、25℃)を用いて測定したとき、粘度は100mPa・s以下である。
(viscosity)
When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is measured using a B-type viscometer (No. 1 rotor, 30 rotations/min, 30 seconds, 25° C.), the viscosity is 100 mPa·s or less.
(粒子径)
粒度分布計(ELSZ-1000:大塚電子製)を用いて測定した。
セラミドの配合量を0.2質量%としたとき、セラミド粒子のサイズ(粒子径)は、150~250nmの範囲にあった。200nm前後の粒子径であるためセラミド粒子分散物は白濁して見える。
なお、セラミドの配合が少ない場合、セラミド粒子のサイズはセラミドの配合量が多い場合と比較して小さくなった。本発明においてセラミドを0.05質量%とした組成の実施例10のセラミド粒子径は100~200nmの範囲にあった。一方セラミドの配合量が0.2質量%を超えても250nmを超えるサイズのセラミド粒子は観察されなかった。本発明においては、セラミド粒子のサイズ(粒子径)は100~250nmの範囲である。
(Particle size)
Measurement was performed using a particle size distribution meter (ELSZ-1000: manufactured by Otsuka Electronics).
When the blending amount of ceramide was 0.2% by mass, the size (particle diameter) of the ceramide particles was in the range of 150 to 250 nm. Since the particle diameter is around 200 nm, the ceramide particle dispersion appears cloudy.
Note that when the amount of ceramide blended is small, the size of the ceramide particles was smaller than when the amount of ceramide blended is large. In the present invention, the ceramide particle size of Example 10, which had a composition containing 0.05% by mass of ceramide, was in the range of 100 to 200 nm. On the other hand, even if the blending amount of ceramide exceeded 0.2% by mass, no ceramide particles with a size exceeding 250 nm were observed. In the present invention, the size (particle diameter) of the ceramide particles is in the range of 100 to 250 nm.
(任意成分)
化粧料用組成物、該化粧料用組成物を配合した化粧料には、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で化粧料に配合可能な成分を配合できる。前述の(F)塩類は任意成分である。例えば、多価アルコール、糖類、糖アルコール類、防腐剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、薬効成分、香料等を含有させることができる。
(optional ingredient)
The cosmetic composition and the cosmetic containing the cosmetic composition can contain ingredients that can be blended into cosmetics within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. The above-mentioned (F) salts are optional ingredients. For example, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, sugar alcohols, preservatives, sequestering agents, medicinal ingredients, fragrances, etc. can be included.
セラミド粒子の安定性を考慮すると、まず(A)~(E)の構成で、セラミド粒子を形成させ、セラミド粒子分散物(化粧料用組成物)としたのちに、任意成分を配合することが重要である。 Considering the stability of ceramide particles, it is recommended to first form ceramide particles with the compositions (A) to (E) to form a ceramide particle dispersion (cosmetic composition), and then add optional ingredients. is important.
また本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)を調製するときに油を実質的に含有しないことが好ましい。本発明において、油を実質的に配合しないとは、化粧料用組成物全量に対し0.1質量%以下であることを意味する。(A)~(D)の組成にさらに任意成分の油が加わると、それらの溶解物(A+B+C+D+任意成分の油)を(E)水に分散した時に、界面活性剤が不足してセラミド粒子以外の油滴が形成されたり、油を含むセラミド粒子が形成されたり、あるいはセラミド単体で水に分散したりして、セラミド粒子(A+B+DまたはA+B+C+D)の効率良い形成が阻害される恐れが高まる。そして調製直後や時間が経過してから、セラミドの結晶が析出する恐れが高まる。なお任意成分として油を含む化粧料としたい場合には、別に調製した乳液やクリームなどに、本発明のセラミド粒子分散物(化粧料組成物)を添加するとよい。 Further, when preparing the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention, it is preferable that oil is not substantially contained. In the present invention, "not substantially containing oil" means that the amount is 0.1% by mass or less based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. When optional oil is added to the compositions of (A) to (D), when the dissolved product (A + B + C + D + optional oil) is dispersed in (E) water, surfactant ceramide particles (A+B+D or A+B+C+ There is an increased possibility that the efficient formation of D) will be inhibited. Immediately after preparation or after some time has elapsed, there is an increased possibility that ceramide crystals will precipitate. If a cosmetic containing oil as an optional ingredient is desired, the ceramide particle dispersion (cosmetic composition) of the present invention may be added to a separately prepared emulsion or cream.
本発明の化粧料組成物が低粘度であることから、そのまま化粧料とする場合、化粧水に最適である。化粧料組成物を含む化粧料とする場合は、剤型に制限はなく、粘性のある化粧水、乳液、クリーム、ジェルなどとすることができる。また皮膚化粧料、頭髪化粧料とすることができる。化粧料組成物を含む化粧料とする場合、該化粧料用組成物を化粧料全量に対し0.1~100質量%含有させることができる。 Since the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a low viscosity, when used as a cosmetic as it is, it is most suitable for use as a lotion. In the case of a cosmetic containing a cosmetic composition, there is no restriction on the dosage form, and it can be a viscous lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, etc. It can also be used as skin cosmetics and hair cosmetics. In the case of a cosmetic containing a cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition can be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 100% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
(応用)
さらに、本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)は、衣類やマスク等の雑貨類にも応用できる。例えば、保湿機能を有するマスクにする場合、本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)をマスクに噴霧して付着させてもよいし、マスク形成時に使用してもよい。いずれも乾燥工程が入るため、最終物の形態では水が極めて少ない状態でセラミド粒子が存在している。本発明のセラミド粒子は安定性が高いので、洗濯しても容易に壊れず高い保湿性の維持が期待できる。
(application)
Furthermore, the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention can also be applied to miscellaneous goods such as clothing and masks. For example, in the case of making a mask with a moisturizing function, the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention may be sprayed onto the mask to adhere to it, or may be used during mask formation. Because both require a drying process, the final product contains ceramide particles with very little water. Since the ceramide particles of the present invention have high stability, they do not break easily even after washing, and can be expected to maintain high moisture retention.
本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)を、衣類やマスク等の雑貨類用途に用いる場合は、化粧料用組成物そのものを化粧料用途(化粧料)とする場合ほど、べたつきなどの使用感に留意する必要がないため、調製時の各成分の濃度を高く設定することができる。すなわちセラミド粒子分散物の調製時の(E)水の量を50~70質量%とし、残りの50~30質量%を(A)~(D)成分として、全量が100質量%の組成にすればよい。 When the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention is used for miscellaneous goods such as clothing and masks, the cosmetic composition itself may not be sticky or sticky. Since there is no need to pay attention to the feeling of use, the concentration of each component during preparation can be set high. That is, when preparing a ceramide particle dispersion, the amount of (E) water is 50 to 70% by mass, and the remaining 50 to 30% by mass are components (A) to (D), so that the total amount is 100% by mass. Bye.
安定なセラミド粒子の調製のためには、(A)、(B)、(C)、(D)の配合比率が重要である。本発明のセラミド粒子分散物をそのまま化粧料用途とする場合も、化粧品原料としてストックとする場合も、雑貨類用途とする場合も、下記の比率で調製するとよい。
すなわち(E)水と共に(A)~(E)の成分の比率が、(D):〔(A)+(B)〕が1:20~1:4であり、〔(A)+(B)+(D)〕:(C)が1:7~1:1.5であり、(A):(B)が1:4~3:2であると、安定なセラミド粒子が作成できる。
まとめると、本発明のセラミド粒子は次のように示すことができる。
下記(A)~(D)を含有し、(E)水と共に、(D):〔(A)+(B)〕が1:20~1:4であり、〔(A)+(B)+(D)〕:(C)が1:7~1:1.5であり、(A):(B)が1:4~3:2の比率で調製したセラミド粒子。
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上
(D)セラミド類および/またはフィトステロール
In order to prepare stable ceramide particles, the blending ratio of (A), (B), (C), and (D) is important. Whether the ceramide particle dispersion of the present invention is used as it is in cosmetics, stocked as a raw material for cosmetics, or used in miscellaneous goods, it may be prepared in the following proportions.
That is, the ratio of components (A) to (E) together with (E) water is (D): [(A) + (B)] is 1:20 to 1:4, and [(A) + (B )+(D)]:(C) is 1:7 to 1:1.5 and (A):(B) is 1:4 to 3:2, stable ceramide particles can be produced.
In summary, the ceramide particles of the present invention can be shown as follows.
Contains the following (A) to (D), together with (E) water, (D): [(A) + (B)] is 1:20 to 1:4, [(A) + (B) +(D)]:Ceramide particles prepared in a ratio of (C) of 1:7 to 1:1.5 and a ratio of (A):(B) of 1:4 to 3:2.
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4 to 8. (B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13 to 16.5. One or more (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and ethanol
以下に実施例、比較例を用いた試験を示し、本発明をさらに説明する。
表1に示す組成の実施例1~54、表2に示す組成の比較例1~28の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)を調製した。
The present invention will be further explained below by showing tests using Examples and Comparative Examples.
Cosmetic compositions (ceramide particle dispersions) of Examples 1 to 54 with the compositions shown in Table 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 28 with the compositions shown in Table 2 were prepared.
(評価)
(外観)
得られた化粧料用組成物を透明な円筒容器(直径3cm)に充填し、50℃の恒温室に一か月保管後、横から外観を目視観察し、白濁か透明かを判定した。水と同程度の透明さ、あるいは青みがかった半透明のものは透明に含め、それ以外はすべて白濁とした。
(evaluation)
(exterior)
The obtained cosmetic composition was filled into a transparent cylindrical container (diameter 3 cm) and stored in a constant temperature room at 50° C. for one month, and then visually observed from the side to determine whether it was cloudy or transparent. Those that were as transparent as water or translucent with a bluish tint were included as transparent, and all others were classified as cloudy.
(安定性)
安定性の評価はまず目視判定で行った。目視判定においては、化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)の調製後の結晶浮きの有無、分離の有無を観察し、いずれも認められない場合を安定(一次評価)とした。次に目視判定において安定(一次評価)であると判断した化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)に関しては、粒度分布計(ELSZ-1000:大塚電子製)を用いて、セラミドを含む粒子のサイズを測定し、各温度帯(5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)下で1ヶ月保管した後の粒径変化が±10%以内であるものを安定(二次評価)であると判断した。表中の安定性「○」とあるのは、二次評価においてすべての温度帯で安定であることを意味し、一か月経過後も結晶の析出、油浮き、分離のいずれもなかったものである。それ以外は安定性「×」とした。
(Stability)
Stability was first evaluated by visual judgment. In visual evaluation, the presence or absence of floating crystals and separation after preparation of the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) were observed, and the case where neither was observed was considered stable (primary evaluation). Next, for the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) that was judged to be stable (primary evaluation) by visual evaluation, the particle size including ceramide was measured using a particle size distribution analyzer (ELSZ-1000: manufactured by Otsuka Electronics). After measuring the size and storing it under each temperature range (5℃, 25℃, 40℃, 50℃, -5℃ and 45℃ cycle/24 hours) for one month, the particle size change is within ±10%. Some were judged to be stable (secondary evaluation). Stability "○" in the table means that it is stable in all temperature ranges in the secondary evaluation, and there was no crystal precipitation, oil floating, or separation even after one month. It is. Otherwise, the stability was rated as "x".
(顕微鏡観察)
セラミド粒子分散物またはそれを含む化粧料をスライドガラスに1滴、滴下し、5分後にカバーガラスをかぶせて顕微鏡で観察した(1000倍)。
(粒子径)
粒度分布計(ELSZ-1000:大塚電子製)を用いて測定した。
(Microscope observation)
One drop of a ceramide particle dispersion or a cosmetic containing the same was placed on a slide glass, and after 5 minutes, a cover glass was covered and observed under a microscope (1000x magnification).
(Particle size)
Measurement was performed using a particle size distribution meter (ELSZ-1000: manufactured by Otsuka Electronics).
表1~表8の結果から、本発明の構成をとることで、安定性に優れた化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)が得られることが確認できた。図1は、顕微鏡(1000倍)で観察した、実施例4の化粧料用組成物である。粒子径が100~250nmのセラミド粒子が観察できた。なお、比較例1~28は、いずれも調製直後に分離または析出し、安定性は「×」であった。 From the results in Tables 1 to 8, it was confirmed that by adopting the configuration of the present invention, a cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) with excellent stability could be obtained. FIG. 1 shows the cosmetic composition of Example 4 observed under a microscope (1000x magnification). Ceramide particles with a particle size of 100 to 250 nm were observed. In addition, in all Comparative Examples 1 to 28, separation or precipitation occurred immediately after preparation, and the stability was rated "x".
(耐塩性の試験)
本発明の実施例4の化粧料用組成物に塩類(塩化ナトリウム0.9質量%または硫酸マグネシウム0.45質量%)を加えて化粧料にすることを想定して、あらかじめ実施例4の組成から水を減じた組成で化粧料用組成物を調製し、そこに(F)塩類(塩化ナトリウムまたは硫酸マグネシウム)を加えて実施例55、実施例56の化粧料を調製した。また従来技術の代表として比較例29~32の化粧料を調製し、同様に塩類を添加して、耐塩性を比較した。表9に組成と結果を示す。粒度分布計(ELSZ-1000:大塚電子製)を用いて測定した実施例55のセラミド粒子径(数平均粒子径)を表10、図2に示す。実施例56のセラミド粒子径(数平均粒子径)を表11、図3に示す。
(Salt tolerance test)
Assuming that salts (0.9% by mass of sodium chloride or 0.45% by mass of magnesium sulfate) are added to the cosmetic composition of Example 4 of the present invention to make a cosmetic, the composition of Example 4 is prepared in advance. A cosmetic composition was prepared by subtracting water from the above composition, and (F) salts (sodium chloride or magnesium sulfate) were added thereto to prepare cosmetics of Examples 55 and 56. In addition, as representatives of the prior art, cosmetics of Comparative Examples 29 to 32 were prepared, salts were added in the same manner, and salt resistance was compared. Table 9 shows the composition and results. The ceramide particle diameter (number average particle diameter) of Example 55 measured using a particle size distribution analyzer (ELSZ-1000, manufactured by Otsuka Electronics) is shown in Table 10 and FIG. 2. The ceramide particle diameter (number average particle diameter) of Example 56 is shown in Table 11 and FIG. 3.
比較例29と比較例30の化粧料は、調製直後は半透明であったが、いずれも50℃または40℃で2週間保管後に外観を観察すると油浮きし、3週間保管後には黄変も認められた。比較例31、比較例32の化粧料は、調製直後は透明であったが、50℃または40℃で2週間保管後に外観を観察すると析出し白濁していた。比較例29~32の組成では、いずれも安定なものは得られなかった。一方、本発明の実施例55、実施例56の塩類を含む化粧料は、5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)に一か月保管後も、調製直後に観察された白濁した状態のままであり、析出や油浮き・分離が一切なかった。そして、表10と図2、および表11と図3の数平均粒径の変化、図4および図5の顕微鏡写真に示す通り、一か月経過後のセラミド粒子の粒子径は、調製直後のセラミド粒子径からほとんど変化せずに、調製直後の100~250nmの範囲を維持していた。本試験によりセラミド粒子が塩類に対して安定であることが確認できた。 The cosmetics of Comparative Example 29 and Comparative Example 30 were translucent immediately after preparation, but when their appearance was observed after being stored at 50°C or 40°C for 2 weeks, they showed an oily appearance, and after 3 weeks of storage, they also showed yellowing. Admitted. The cosmetics of Comparative Examples 31 and 32 were transparent immediately after preparation, but when the appearance was observed after storage at 50° C. or 40° C. for 2 weeks, the cosmetics were precipitated and became cloudy. With the compositions of Comparative Examples 29 to 32, no stable product was obtained. On the other hand, the cosmetics containing the salts of Examples 55 and 56 of the present invention were stored for one month at 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, 50°C, -5°C and 45°C cycles/24 hours). The sample also remained in the cloudy state observed immediately after preparation, and there was no precipitation, oil floating, or separation at all. As shown in Table 10 and Figure 2, as well as the changes in number average particle diameter in Table 11 and Figure 3, and as shown in the micrographs in Figures 4 and 5, the particle diameter of the ceramide particles after one month was the same as that immediately after preparation. The particle size of the ceramide particles remained within the range of 100 to 250 nm immediately after preparation, with almost no change. This test confirmed that ceramide particles are stable against salts.
以上の結果から、本発明の化粧料用組成物(セラミド粒子分散物)、およびそれを含む化粧料は安定性に優れ、塩類の添加に対しても極めて安定であることが分かった。
次に本発明の化粧料の処方例を示す。単位は質量%である。
From the above results, it was found that the cosmetic composition (ceramide particle dispersion) of the present invention and the cosmetic composition containing the same have excellent stability and are extremely stable even when salts are added.
Next, a formulation example of the cosmetic of the present invention will be shown. The unit is mass%.
(処方例1 保湿化粧水)
1.実施例1の化粧料用組成物 93.4
2.グリセリン 3
3.1,3-ブチレングリコール 3
3.グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム 0.1
4.ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム(1%水溶液) 0.5
別に調製した実施例1の化粧料組成物に成分2~4を加えて保湿化粧水を得た。
処方例1の保湿化粧水は白濁しており高級感が感じられた。さっぱりとした使い心地でありながら、肌がしっとりした。5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)に1か月保管後も油浮き・分離や析出がなく、非常に安定であった。
(Prescription example 1 moisturizing lotion)
1. Cosmetic composition of Example 1 93.4
2. glycerin 3
3.1,3-butylene glycol 3
3. Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1
4. Sodium hyaluronate (1% aqueous solution) 0.5
Ingredients 2 to 4 were added to the separately prepared cosmetic composition of Example 1 to obtain a moisturizing lotion.
The moisturizing lotion of Formulation Example 1 was cloudy and had a luxurious feel. It feels refreshing and leaves my skin moisturized. Even after storage for one month at 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, 50°C, -5°C and 45°C cycles/24 hours, there was no oil floating, separation, or precipitation, and it was very stable.
(処方例2 乳液)
1.実施例41の化粧料用組成物 10
2.グリセリン 10
3.1,3-ブチレングリコール 5
4.ベタイン 3
5.ジプロピレングリコール 7
6.クエン酸 0.01
7.クエン酸ナトリウム 0.1
8.キサンタンガム 0.08
9.1,2-ペンタンジオール 1
10.スクワラン 3
11.ジメチコン 1
12.ポリソルベート60 0.8
13.ステアリン酸ソルビタン 0.3
14.水 残余
(製法)
成分14へ成分9に分散させた成分8を加え、成分2~7も加えて撹拌溶解する(水相)。成分10~13を溶解(80~85℃)した中に、先に調製した水相(80~85℃)を加えて乳化させ、50℃付近で成分1を加え、室温まで攪拌冷却して乳液を得た。
処方例2の乳液は5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)に1か月保管後も油浮き・分離や析出がなく、非常に安定であった。
(Prescription example 2 emulsion)
1.
2.
3.1,3-butylene glycol 5
4. betaine 3
5. Dipropylene glycol 7
6. Citric acid 0.01
7. Sodium citrate 0.1
8. Xanthan gum 0.08
9.1,2-pentanediol 1
10. Squalane 3
11. Dimethicone 1
12. Polysorbate 60 0.8
13. Sorbitan stearate 0.3
14. Water remainder (manufacturing method)
Component 8 dispersed in component 9 is added to component 14, and components 2 to 7 are also added and dissolved with stirring (aqueous phase). Add the previously prepared aqueous phase (80 to 85°C) to a solution of
The emulsion of Formulation Example 2 is extremely stable with no oil floating, separation, or precipitation even after being stored for one month at 5℃, 25℃, 40℃, 50℃, -5℃ and 45℃ cycles/24 hours. there were.
(処方例3 白濁化粧水)
1.水 残余
2.BG 1.5
3.グリセリン 3
4.DPG 5
5.セスキオレイン酸ソルビタン 0.5
6.PEG-80水添ヒマシ油 0.5
7.メチルグルセス-10 2.25
8.ベタイン 1.5
9.ラフィノース 0.5
10.ジグリセリン 0.1
11.ペンチレングリコール 1.75
12.エチルヘキシルグリセリン 0.07
13.セラミド2 0.2
14.クエン酸 0.04
15.クエン酸Na 0.13
(製法)
成分1、2、3、7、8、9、10、12を加熱混合した中に、成分5、6、13、4、11を加熱溶解したものを添加して攪拌し、室温まで冷却して、セラミド粒子を形成させた水分散物を得た。さらに塩類である成分14、15を添加して化粧水を得た。処方例3の化粧水は白濁しており高級感が感じられた。さっぱりとした使い心地でありながら、肌がしっとりした。5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃、-5℃と45℃のサイクル/24時間)に1か月保管後も油浮き・分離や析出がなく、非常に安定であった。
(Prescription example 3 cloudy lotion)
1. Water remainder 2. BG 1.5
3. glycerin 3
4. DPG 5
5. Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5
6. PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5
7. Methylgluceth-10 2.25
8. betaine 1.5
9. Raffinose 0.5
10. Diglycerin 0.1
11. Pentylene glycol 1.75
12. Ethylhexylglycerin 0.07
13. Ceramide 2 0.2
14. Citric acid 0.04
15. Sodium citrate 0.13
(Manufacturing method)
To a heated mixture of
Claims (8)
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上
(D)セラミド2またはセラミド3を含むセラミド類および/またはフィトステロール
(E)水 Particles containing the following (A) to (E), in which (D) together with (A) and (B) , oil that does not contain component (D) is 0.1% by mass or less based on the total amount of the particle dispersion. A particle dispersion of ceramides and/or phytosterols containing ceramide 2 or ceramide 3 .
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4-8 (B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13-16.5 (C) one or more selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and ethanol (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols containing ceramide 2 or ceramide 3 (E) water
(A)HLB値が4~8である分岐または不飽和結合を有する脂肪酸基を有する非イオン性界面活性剤
(B)HLB値が13~16.5であるポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油
(C)ジプロピレングリコール、ペンチレングリコール、プロピレングリコールおよびエタノールから選ばれる一以上
(D)セラミド2またはセラミド3を含むセラミド類および/またはフィトステロール Contains the following (A) to (D), together with (E) water, (D): [(A) + (B)] is 1:20 to 1:4, [(A) + (B) +(D)]:(C) is in the ratio of 1:7 to 1:1.5, (A):(B) is in the ratio of 1:4 to 3:2, and component (D) is not included. A particle dispersion in which particles of ceramides and/or phytosterols containing ceramide 2 or ceramide 3 are prepared with an oil content of 0.1% by mass or less based on the total amount of the particle dispersion.
(A) A nonionic surfactant having a branched or unsaturated bond-containing fatty acid group with an HLB value of 4-8 (B) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil with an HLB value of 13-16.5 (C) one or more selected from dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and ethanol (D) ceramides and/or phytosterols including ceramide 2 or ceramide 3;
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JP2002338459A (en) | 2001-05-16 | 2002-11-27 | Nikko Chemical Co Ltd | Method for solubilizing ceramide and ceramide- formulated skin care preparation obtained by using the method |
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