JPH0153374B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a silk fabric with excellent repellency and wrinkle resistance, and a method for producing the same.

(Prior art) Since silk fabrics tend to wrinkle more easily, various attempts have been made to improve this for a long time.In general, the wrinkle resistance has been improved by making bulky silk fabrics using bulky raw silk. It was granted. Recently, it has also been attempted to use puffed yarn obtained by subjecting raw silk to a puffing process as a bulky yarn to create bulky silk fabrics, thereby imparting wrinkle resistance.

In addition, conventionally, when manufacturing wrinkle-resistant silk fabrics, sizing was performed to suppress the elongation of bulky raw silk before weaving.

(Problem to be solved by the invention) Bulky raw silk elongates over time, elongates during the preparation stage before weaving and during weaving, and elongates due to tension in wet conditions during processing such as scouring and dyeing. Therefore, silk fabrics using bulky raw silk still have insufficient repellency and anti-wrinkle effects.

If the bulky raw silk is woven with a sizing process to suppress its elongation, sizing alone may cause it to elongate during the pre-weaving preparation process or during the weaving process, and furthermore, the processing steps such as the scouring process and dyeing process after weaving. As the glue fell off, the film elongated, making it difficult to achieve anti-wrinkle effects.
At this time, it is possible to use a sizing agent that does not fall off during the processing step, but in this case, there is a problem that the texture of the silk fabric cannot be obtained, and therefore, the sizing agent cannot be used.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention provides a bulky silk fabric for solving the above-mentioned problems, in which bulky raw silk and strongly twisted yarn made of raw silk subjected to strong twists of 1000 to 4000 times/m are aligned. , which is constructed by weaving a composite yarn formed by twisting and ordinary raw silk (first invention).

In addition, as a manufacturing method for the bulky silk fabric, after weaving with bulky raw silk that has been sized, highly twisted raw silk yarn that has been subjected to strong twists of 1000 to 4000 times/m, and ordinary raw silk, it is woven using a proteolytic enzyme. This is a device in which scouring is performed (second invention).

(Example) Examples of the present invention will be described below.

The bulky raw silk 1 in the present invention refers to yarns that have been subjected to woolly processing (false twisting), denite yarns known as knitted and unwound yarns, conjugate yarns, and other latent crimped yarns. Examples include shrunken yarns, and further examples include puffed yarns subjected to a well-known swelling process, and the bulky raw silk 1 may be, for example, spun yarns, filament yarns, or other appropriate yarns.
Furthermore, it goes without saying that it may be a single yarn, double yarn or more, or any other appropriate yarn, and any bulky raw silk can be used freely without any particular restrictions. In this case, the above-mentioned puffed yarn made of raw silk that has been subjected to the swelling process is preferably one in which the swelling ratio based on the cross-sectional area of the yarn is about 1.1 times or more on average compared to before the process, and It is easy to use those expanded to about 1.2 to 4.0 times, more preferably about 1.4 to 3.0 times. It is desirable to perform the above-mentioned swelling process on raw silk before scouring, and scouring is generally performed after it is made into a textile. Assuming that Ceciline has fallen off to the same extent), there is almost no difference from the one before scouring.

Next, the highly twisted yarn 2 made of strongly twisted raw silk according to the present invention is one that has been strongly twisted at a number of twists of 1000 to 4000 times/m. In the case of double-twisted yarn or more, such as intertwisted yarn or covering yarn, the value of first twist is referred to.
It can be used at any time, and in the case of double yarn or more, it is sufficient that at least one of the yarns is highly twisted. The example shown in Figure 2 A is an example of a double yarn, and the value 2500 in the figure is the number of twists for the first twist. 480
The value of 2500 and the value of 2500 are the number of twists of the first twist, the value of 1000 is the medium twist, and the value of 500 is the first twist, and both yarns on both sides are called high twist yarns. The reason why these highly twisted yarns 2 are used is that they serve as core yarns, and also serve to shrink as the highly twisted yarns become core yarns during scouring, which will be described later. As a result, the elongation of the bulky raw silk 1 is suppressed.

In particular, the reason why the number of twists is limited to 1000 to 4000 times/m in the present invention is that when the number of twists is 1000 times/m or less, the degree of shrinkage due to untwisting during scouring of the highly twisted yarn 2 is small, so the bulkiness is reduced. Not fully demonstrated.

On the other hand, if the number of twists is 4000 times/m or more, the twist of the highly twisted yarn 2 itself becomes large during scouring, which actually impairs the bulkiness.

Therefore, in order for the highly twisted yarn 2 to shrink appropriately during scouring and increase the bulkiness of the bulky raw silk 1, the
The range of times/m is good.

Next, the composite yarn 10 according to the present invention is a twisted yarn, a burring yarn, a core yarn, a drawn yarn, etc., and for example, as shown in FIG. Mixed twisted yarn 3, aligned yarn 13 made by aligning bulky raw silk 1 and strongly twisted yarn 2 made of raw silk, as shown in (B) in the same figure, bulky raw silk 1 used as a cover yarn, and strongly twisted yarn 2 made of raw silk as a core yarn, as shown in C in the same figure. The covering thread 23 is made of thread. When forming such a composite yarn, the raw silk used for bulk processing may be either unscoured or after scouring, and it is preferable to use scoured raw silk for the highly twisted yarn. . Generally, the repellency of a textile fabric has a large effect on wrinkle resistance, but in this case, the repulsion property of the silk fabric of the present invention can be freely selected depending on the number of twists of the highly twisted yarn 2 and the mixing ratio of the highly twisted yarn 2.

The present invention is composed of the above-mentioned bulky raw silk 1, highly twisted raw silk yarn 2, and composite yarn 10, and the method for manufacturing the woven fabric will be explained below.

First, bulky raw silk 1, for example, the above-described puffed yarn, is subjected to a sizing process. At this time, gluing may be performed using a commonly used natural or synthetic glue, but there are no particular restrictions.
If necessary, a softener or a smoothing agent may be used to prevent the threads from adhering to each other during gluing.

Next, the bulky raw silk 1 and the highly twisted yarn 2 as shown in FIG. 2 are twisted and aligned as shown in FIG. Composite yarn 10 obtained by
2, for example, as shown in FIG.
Figure A shows an example in which ordinary thread 12 is used for the warp A, and ordinary yarn 12 and composite yarn 10 are alternately used for the weft B. Figure B shows an example in which the warp of the fabric shown in /
An example in which the composite yarn 10 is used in 4 pitches is illustrated.

Next, the fabric is subjected to enzyme scouring using, for example, pepsin, papain, or other proteolytic enzymes. According to this scouring method, the elongation of the bulky raw silk 1 is suppressed compared to the conventional method of using soap or soda, which is conventionally used for raw silk, and since low-temperature treatment is possible, the highly twisted yarn 2 is heat-set. There are few cases where it becomes difficult to untwist. the result,
The scouring means of the present invention is superior to conventional means in terms of repulsion.

The main purpose of the scouring is to remove the sizing agent applied to the bulky raw silk 1 of the composite yarn 10, and the changes in the silk fabric due to scouring at that time are explained as follows with reference to Figure 4. .

For example, when a silk fabric as shown in FIG. 1A is woven, its cross section is as shown in FIG. Since it does not fall off, the fabric is in a tight state, but by going through the scouring process, the size agent falls off, and with the help of the untwisting action of the highly twisted yarn 2, microscopically it becomes as shown in Figure B and C. A slight gap 15 occurs in the composite yarn 10 due to shedding of the size agent, and as a result, the resulting silk fabric has a more voluminous feel, repulsion, and excellent wrinkle resistance. It is a warp made of thread.

Next, preferred specific examples of the present invention will be described together with comparative examples.

Example 1 As shown in Figure 5A, 3 out of 27 raw silks before scouring were subjected to S-twisting at 600 times/m, and after the twisting was stopped by steam setting, the well-known swelling agent Silkerol ( Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) was subjected to a swelling process by immersing it in a solution to obtain bulky raw silk 1 whose swelling ratio based on the cross-sectional area was approximately 1.6 times that before processing, and the swelling ratio was 20%. Gelatin, which is a type of collagen protein derivative, was attached and glued to give a cwf of . On the other hand, a highly twisted yarn 2 was prepared by subjecting one of the ordinary raw silk 27 before scouring to a single twist of S twist at 2,500 times/m, and then aligned it with the bulky raw silk 1 obtained above. Aligning thread 1
Make 3, and then add 450 to 13 comrades of such pulling threads.
Z-twisting was performed at a rate of twists/m to obtain intertwisted yarn 3, which was used as composite yarn 10.

Using the composite yarn 10 obtained in this way and the plain yarn 12 of raw silk before ordinary scouring, weaving is performed as shown in Fig. 1A, and then enzymatic scouring with a proteolytic enzyme at 60°C.
After applying it for 4 hours, a silk fabric with good repellency, a sense of volume, and excellent wrinkle resistance was obtained.

Example 2 As shown in Figure 5B, 3 pieces of unscoured raw silk 21 that had been expanded in the same manner as in Example 1 were twisted 600 times/mS, and the twist was stopped by steam setting. Bulky raw silk 1 made by aligning three single-twisted yarns and 1 regular raw silk 27 medium before scouring
Using the strong twisted yarn 2 which has been single-twisted with S twist of 2500 times/m, and the intertwisted yarn 3 which has been subjected to Z twist of 450 times/m, the same sizing as in Example 1 is applied to make the intertwisted yarn. A composite yarn 10 consisting of 3 was obtained. Such composite yarn 10
When weaving and scouring were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, a silk fabric with good repellency, a sense of volume, and excellent wrinkle resistance was obtained.

Example 3 As shown in Fig. 5D, 4 out of 27 pieces of raw silk before scouring were twisted in the same manner as in Example 1, and similarly subjected to swelling processing so that the swelling ratio was approximately 1.4 times. The obtained bulky raw silk 1 was sized in the same manner as in Example 1 and used as a cover yarn, and the highly twisted yarn 2 used in Example 1 was used as a core yarn and wound in the Z direction at 350 turns/m to make a covering yarn. 23 was made, and composite yarn 10 was obtained. A silk fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the composite yarn 10 thus obtained was used. This silk fabric had good repellency, a sense of volume, and excellent wrinkle resistance.

Example 4 After scouring the same thread using 21 x 4 pieces of raw silk,
After adsorbing collagen protein derivative, 600 times/
After applying Z twist of m and applying moist heat setting, further
Bulky raw silk 1 was prepared by applying S twist at 600 times/m and then gluing.

On the other hand, 2500 for 1 out of 27 ordinary raw silks before scouring
Strongly twisted yarn 2 is created by applying an S twist of 450 turns/m to create a highly twisted yarn 2, and then aligned with the bulky raw silk 1 to create a leveled yarn, which is then subjected to a Z twist of 450 times/m to create a composite yarn. It was 10.

Using the composite yarn 10 obtained in this way and the plain yarn 12 of raw silk before ordinary scouring, weaving is performed as shown in Fig. 1A, and then enzymatic scouring with a proteolytic enzyme at 60°C.
When applied for 4 hours, the bulkiness of Bulky Raw Silk 1 was expressed, and a silk fabric with good repellency, volume, and excellent wrinkle resistance was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 As shown in Fig. 5C, bulky raw silk 1 was prepared by using 4 of the unscoured woolly yarns 21 made of raw silk, subjected to S twist at 600 times/m, and then fixed by low-temperature setting. A silk fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the same highly twisted yarn 2 as in Example 1 was subjected to Z-twisting at a rate of 200 times/m, except that the twisted composite yarn 10 was used. Ta.

In addition, scouring is carried out at 95 to 98℃ using the soap soda method for 4 to 50 minutes.
When the test was carried out in a conventional manner for 6 hours, the wrinkle resistance of the obtained silk fabric was satisfactory, but the repellency was insufficient.

Comparative Example 2 Bulky raw silk 1 made by aligning three single-twisted raw silk yarns obtained in Example 2 was pasted in the same manner as in Example 1, and the bulky raw silk 1 was used instead of composite yarn 10. Weaving and scouring were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a silk fabric.

However, in this comparative example, the bulky raw silk was stretched due to the tension applied during each step, and the repellency was insufficient, making it impossible to obtain a fabric with excellent wrinkle resistance.

(Effects of the Invention) The silk fabric of the present invention is woven with ordinary raw silk and a composite yarn formed by aligning bulky raw silk and strongly twisted raw silk yarn with a specific value of strong twist, and twisting them together. It has extremely excellent wrinkle resistance, and in its manufacturing method, after weaving a composite yarn made of the bulky raw silk and high-twist yarn with ordinary raw silk,
By enzymatic scouring with proteolytic enzymes, silk fabrics with excellent anti-wrinkle properties that do not stretch during the pre-weaving preparation stage, during weaving, or during scouring, etc., have resilience and volume. It was provided.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view showing an example of a fabric according to the present invention, FIG. 2 is an explanatory view for explaining a highly twisted yarn, and FIG. 3 is a side view showing an example of a composite yarn. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view for explaining changes in silk fabric due to scouring (C in the figure is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the composite yarn at B), and Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view for explaining the composite yarn used in the examples. FIG. 1...Bulky raw silk, 2...Highly twisted yarn, 10[3,
13, 23]...Composite yarn, 12...Ordinary yarn.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1 Bulky raw silk 1, strongly twisted raw silk 2 made of raw silk subjected to strong twists of 1000 to 4000 times/m, composite yarn 10 formed by aligning, intertwisting, etc., and ordinary raw silk 12. A bulky silk fabric characterized by being woven with. 2 Bulky raw silk 1 and 1000 to 4000 with glue
After weaving a composite yarn 10 formed by aligning and intertwisting a strongly twisted yarn 2 made of raw silk that has been strongly twisted at a rate of twists/m, and ordinary raw silk 12, enzyme scouring using a proteolytic enzyme is performed. A method for producing a bulky silk fabric characterized by: