JPS58115144A - Stretch fabric and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a stretch fabric having elasticity, particularly in both warp and weft directions, and a method for producing the same.

In recent years, materials for clothing are required to have various functionalities, and among these required functionality, the demand for stretch performance K11l is becoming stronger in conjunction with the trend towards sports and casual clothing. Recently, there has been a demand for fabrics that not only improve athletic functionality but also have excellent stretchability, in order to improve comfort when worn.
Clothes made of materials with good elasticity can easily expand and contract the woven or knitted material according to the movements of the various parts of the body, so you can perform activities smoothly without feeling pressured when wearing them.

For this reason, many stretchable woven and knitted fabrics have been proposed. One of these is knitted fabrics, which are loose at 5 isi+, so we use normal pre-burned yarn and the temperature is 1 ℃. Although it can be easily imparted with stretchability, it cannot be used in place of textiles for all purposes. On the other hand, in the case of a fabric with dense tissue points, sufficient elasticity cannot be obtained simply by using the above-mentioned pre-combusted yarn. The fabric has a pattern that cannot be obtained with mataki.

It has 9 quality features such as dimensional stability and texture, and there is an urgent need to make use of these features and add elasticity, and there are more proposals than ever before. I've been For example, there is a method of partially incorporating an elastic material with excellent stretchability such as urethane or rubber. However, in this method, not only do urethane and rubber particles have an electric value, but they also stretch too easily and cannot be used alone in special cases. Alternatively, it must be used as a covering material with low stretch yarns to limit the stretch. For this reason,
Twisted yarns require extremely inefficient and complicated processes, and have the drawback of increasing fabric production costs. In addition, even if elongation is restricted as in the case of a sash, it is not easy to handle, and even if it can be used as a weft, it is extremely difficult to use as a warp, and it is prone to warp loosening and warp shrinkage. , Stretchability Inequality 1) There are drawbacks, and the current situation is that sufficient stretchability in the longitudinal and latitudinal directions of the feet is not achieved.

, the object of the present invention is to improve upon such conventional drawbacks.

The object of the present invention is to propose a trench fabric having excellent stretchability in both the warp direction and the weft direction, and a method for fabricating the same.

That is, 1 the present invention consists of a polyester-containing chill composite yarn whose warp yarns are stretchable and contain polypropylene terephthalate,
The present invention also provides a stretch fabric characterized in that the weft yarns are arranged in a weft-stretched structure with increased bending, and has stretchability in both the warp and weft directions, and a method for producing the same.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The woven fabric of the present invention has stretchability in both the warp and weft directions, and this two-way stretchability is achieved by using a stretchable polyvarnished composite yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate in the warp, and , the wefts are arranged in a weft-t-weft structure.

The polyester composite yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is composed of a composite spun yarn containing polyethylene terephthalate, and as a composite form, a side-by-side yarn or an eccentric sheath core type is effective. used for.

At least one component of the composite yarn needs to contain polybutylene terephthalate-Y, and it is preferable that this component consists of polybutylene terephthalate having a diameter of 80 or more. Regarding the other component of the composite yarn, 8
It is preferable that the yarn be made of polyethylene terephthalate having a molar strength of 0 or more, and furthermore, in order to strengthen the crimp-producing ability of the composite yarn, it is preferable that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyethylene terephthalate (k) is α55 or less.

(1) The composite ratio of butylene terephthalate and other components of the composite yarn is preferably 30 nia 0 to yo:so.

Such a composite yarn can be crimped by undergoing hot air processing (4), but it can also be used in conjunction with false twisting as a preferred method to impart a larger curling form. be able to.

In the false twisting process, the composite crimped yarn can be used as a composite crimped yarn by a single heater false twisting process, and the crimp rate TCte of the composite crimped yarn is Plts or more, more preferably 1at1 or more. Used effectively. What is the crimp rate TCn here?

When boiling water treatment is carried out under a load of 1011 F/-, the rolling rate is called the rolling rate.

The woven fabric of the present invention is woven using such a polyester composite yarn at least in the warp. As for the fabric structure, any commonly used fabric can be used. There is no 4IK limit for the weft, but the weft -
In order to improve the robustness of the structure, polyamide,
It is preferable to use thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester, and if bulkiness is also required, temporary textured yarns of these synthetic fibers, and the above-mentioned polyester composite yarns or polyester composite crimped yarns are preferably used. It may be.

The weft of the fabric thus obtained is layered, and the weft -
In order to obtain a woven fabric with a weft structure, it is necessary to tension the fabric in the warp direction of the scouring/relaxation treatment of patterned fabrics and sufficiently insert the weft. . The scouring/relaxation machine for forming such a weft yarn structure may be a combination of an expandable desizing scouring tank that applies tension in the warp direction of the fabric and a scouring dryer, or a jigger dyeing machine for the scouring process. In both cases, the tension applied to the fabric is about 10 to 30 m/d·, and a weft-like structure can be obtained.

After obtaining such a busy weft bending structure, the tension in the warp direction is then reduced or the tension in the warp direction is increased to 511 Nl, and the stretch fabric of the present invention is obtained by heat treatment in the warp direction and shrinking in the warp direction. It will be done.

The elongation in the weft direction is obtained by the weft structure of the fabric,
It is preferable to fix the form of the patterned fabric. For example, when thermoplastic synthetic fibers are used for the weft, this can be done by increasing the treatment temperature during longitudinal tension; , and duck and weft yarns with large tension in the warp direction.
Although the structure becomes more pronounced, on the other hand, the elasticity in the warp direction is reduced, so it is necessary to reconsider the balance between the elasticity in the warp and weft directions to fix the fabric form.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the reduction in stretchability in the warp direction is extremely small because the polyester composite yarn ◆ containing polybutylene terephthalate is used, and this can only be achieved by utilizing the properties of the polyester composite yarn. However, with ordinary false-twisted m-weft yarns, etc., the reduction in elasticity is extremely large, so that sufficient elasticity in the warp direction cannot be obtained.

Furthermore, in order to fully utilize the elasticity of the polyesteno 1 composite fiber containing polybutylene terephthalate, it is preferable to perform a shrinkage development treatment in advance before the *ii treatment in the warp direction.

That is, a relaxation treatment N (heat treatment in a relaxed state) may be performed using a woven fabric in which the tension in the warp direction has been removed, and the polyester composite yarns of the warp may be crimped. This is from K.
The polyester gold thread develops crimp and can increase its elasticity in the warp direction.

As mentioned above, the K11 light stretch fabric has elasticity in the warp direction due to the polyester composite yarn, and is also elastic in the weft direction due to the weft structure. This results in a completely new fabric that is stretchable in any direction.

This can only be obtained by utilizing the unique properties of polyester composite yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate, and the property C of such polyester composite yarn is hot water treatment under high load - that is, heat treatment. The following is thought to be the reason for the property that crimps appear after undergoing longitudinal tension in water and then being treated with hot water under low load or in a relaxed state. There is.

In other words, polybutylene terephthalate has extremely poor heat setting properties and cannot be heat set under tension.
Polybutylene terephthalate has the crystal structure of gflll and/
This is thought to be due to the fact that it has a crystalline structure of type II, and even if it is heat treated under tension so that many of the crystalline structures remain, the heat treatment of type 41 instantly transforms it into a crystalline structure that is attractive to harmful birds. It is thought that when changing from the β-lid crystal structure to the ll1m1 crystal structure, it shrinks by about 10%.

Composite Kenhigashi containing polybutylene terephthalate having such properties has a 70-crimped form due to the LL transformation of the crystal structure of polybutylene terephthalate, and even after processing under high tension, K11161@- is easily expressed. It is believed that the crimp provides excellent stretchability.

In the first garden, the polyester composite yarn used in the present invention is
FIG. 6 is a diagram illustrating the property of reproducing the subsequent hot part II''e embroidery after being processed under high tension.

That is, the present inventors conducted the following experiment in order to confirm such properties of the polyester composite yarn. The warp is a normal polyester false twisted yarn 1'1L (1 denier 748 filament is used, and the weft is a wrinkled polyester composite yarn TolS)
O denier/48 filament was pre-processed (polyester composite wound yarn) to be woven into a plain weave, while for comparison, polyester false twisted thread 110 denier/41 filament used for the warp in - was used as the weft. The woven fabric was woven into a plain weave according to the same specifications, and the woven fabric was heated to a temperature of 90°C.
After scouring and relaxing treatment with hot water at ℃, set the machine to a state where it is expanded to a width of 10ts (1)
60 to 200°C for 1 hour and 15 seconds), and then further hot water treatment (temperature of 130°C for 9 hours and 60 minutes) to determine the final width. The results are shown in Fig. 1, where ^ indicates the offer rate when the polyester composite wound yarn used in the present @ is used, and B indicates the offer rate when the normal polyester false twisted yarn is used. Also, the vertical axis shows 1 while relaxing.
00, and shows the actual width (chi) in the textile as a percentage even though the machine is being set. 1.1' is when the temperature of the dry heat treatment is 200°C, and 2.2' is when the same temperature is 1110°C.

3. s' indicates the case where the temperature is 1110°C. In addition, C indicates the percentage of the machine setting (width extension) for dry heat treatment.
It is.

In the polyester composite yarn used in the present invention, the increase was only about s% during relaxation even after dry arm treatment, and furthermore, after being left in nature for 24 hours, the increase was about 5% during acid relaxation. The final width after hot water treatment is 1 to 2 times the width during relaxation. This is because, although the crimps of the polyester composite yarn are stretched during the dry heat treatment, the width is restored to almost the state k after the relaxation treatment by the hot water treatment.

On the other hand, with conventional false twisted yarn, the dry heat treatment hardness is 1@O℃.
In the case of , the recovery to the relaxing state takes a little longer, but when dry heat treatment and ring temperature change at a temperature of 180℃ or higher, which is normally used for heat fixation, is used, hot water treatment is applied to a width close to the machine setting. This is maintained even at the later final width, and crimp does not occur again.

The polyester composite yarn of the present invention has, in addition to the above-mentioned unique properties, the ability to develop crimp under high loads.

Figure 2 is a diagram illustrating the occurrence of crimp under load, with the crimp rate (%) plotted on the vertical axis and the load (q/-.) on the horizontal axis. B) The polyester double & crimped yarn used in the experiment is exactly the false twisted yarn used in the experiment described above.

As is clear from Fig. 2, the crimp development property of the polyester composite crimped yarn under load is extremely large, and after the fabric is made into a weft structure as in Tsurugi,
Furthermore, it becomes the driving force that causes contraction due to crimp in the warp direction.

Thus, according to the present invention, the fabric has not only elasticity in the weft direction but also elasticity in the warp direction, and its elongation rate is also 10.
This is a new 2-way stretch fabric with more than

Note that the heat treatment performed by reducing the tension in the warp direction or relaxing it in the warp direction may also be used as a dyeing process.

The present invention will be explained below using practical examples.

Example Polybutylene terephthalate Flt 40% and polybutylene terephthalate component (2 types with q of 037 and a47)
Two types of polyester composite Kenhigashi 150 denier 48 filament consisting of 60-100-200 denier are used for the warp yarn, which is a polyester night-cut crimped yarn, and a polyester false twisted yarn (type 0) 150 denier is used for the weft yarn. Using 48 filaments, a woven fabric with a 272 fill structure and a weave density of 32 threads/ts + latitude of 33 threads/ex was passed through a continuous vibro-extraction scouring machine (manufactured by Daiwa Kikai μ), and passed through a cylinder. After drying, use the Cirque error dyeing machine (once a day).
The fabric was treated with relaxation in one direction at 180℃tS seconds) and dyed at 136℃, and the finished fabric did not have any grains on the surface like the first one. - Pilling with strong longitude and latitude elongation.

T ways 5trec excels in snagging ability
h A fabric was obtained.

For comparison, a polyester false-twisted yarn similar to the weft was used for the warp, and the elongation was less than 10.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1111 is a diagram showing the crimping re-appearance of the polyester single gold thread used in the present invention, and Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the crimped thread under load by the polyester gold dowel thread used in the present invention. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing shrinkage properties. Sai IUf1 Sai2 Figure 41! （″咄－）

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] L The warp is made of a stretchable polyester monoply yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate, and the weft is arranged in a weft-like structure with increased bending, so that・Stretch fabric that has stretchability in both the weft direction. 2. During the scouring and relaxing treatment, the warp is made of stretchable polyester composite yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate, the fabric is tensed in the warp direction to sufficiently widen the fabric, and then the fabric is tensioned in the warp direction. 1. A method for producing a stretch fabric, characterized in that the fabric is contracted in the warp direction by reducing or loosening it by Km in the warp direction, applying heat and causing spots. λ When performing the scouring and relaxing treatment 1 on a fabric made of stretchable polyester composite yarn whose warp yarns contain polybutylene terephthalate, the woven fabric is treated under low tension in advance to develop crimps in the crimped polyester composite yarn. After that, the fabric is tensioned in the warp direction to sufficiently perform the width filling, and then the tension in the warp direction is reduced or relaxed in one direction to cause the stretch fabric to contract in the warp direction. Production method.