JPH10292233A - Polyester-based false-twisted yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester-based false-twisted yarn having both high hollowness and high hot water shrinkage fastness, light in weight, excellent in bulkiness, having soft and high elasticity, good in snagging resistance, and suitable for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing. SOLUTION: This polyester-based false-twisted yarn is obtained by applying a false-twisting processing to a polyester multifilament yarn comprising polyester filaments each having a hollow cross section. Therein, a twisting coefficient, a twisting zone tension, a untwisting zone tension and a heat-setting temperature are set to 14000-25000, 0.2-0.7 g/d, 0:4-1.2 g/d and 150-200 deg.C, respectively. Thereby, the false-twisted yarn having an average hollowness percent of >=10%, an average flat modified cross section degree of 1.20-1.50 and a hot water shrinkage fastness of 3.0-6.0% is obtained.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a false twisted yarn comprising a polyester filament having a hollow cross section and a method for producing the same, which is lightweight, bulky, soft, excellent in resilience and snagging, An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester false twisted yarn suitable as a knitted fabric for clothing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In order to reduce the weight of a knitted woven fabric for clothing and to enhance the heat retaining property, a yarn having a high potential crimp property is used, or a fiber is crimped. In order to further reduce the weight of the knitted fabric by reducing the weight of the fiber itself, a hollow fiber is also used, and a hollow fiber having a hollow ratio of 50% or less is known (Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 42). -2428). In addition, two different hollow ratios
It is also known to mix and mix more than one kind of thermoplastic hollow filament yarns and apply false twisting to impart characteristics to the feel and appearance (see JP-A-49-100358).

However, conventionally, when one of the hollow ratio and the hot water elasticity is increased, there is a problem that the other becomes lower. For example, it has a high hollowness and a high hot water elasticity, and is soft and high. A polyester false twisted yarn having elasticity and excellent snagging properties and suitable for knitted fabrics for clothing has not been obtained.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has a high hollowness and a high degree of hot water elasticity, is lightweight, has excellent bulkiness, is soft and has high elasticity, and has good snagging properties. Accordingly, the present invention provides a high-performance polyester false twisted yarn suitable for use as a knitted fabric for clothing and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

The polyester-based false twisted yarn of the present invention is a false-twisted yarn comprising a polyester filament having a hollow cross section, wherein the filament has an average hollow ratio of 10% or more and an average flat irregular shape. Degree 1.20
1.50, and a hot water stretch fastness of 3.0 to 6.0%.

[0006] In the above method for producing a polyester-based false twisted yarn, when performing a false twisting process on a polyester-based multifilament yarn comprising a polyester filament having a hollow cross section, the twist coefficient is set to 14000 to 25000, and the twisting area tension is set to 0. 0.2 to 0.7 g / d, and the untwisting area tension is 0.4 to 1.
It is characterized in that the heat setting temperature is set to 150 to 200 ° C., respectively, to 2 g / d.

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the polyester-based false twisted yarn 10 of the present invention.
Obtained by false twisting a multifilament yarn consisting of Here, the polyester resin constituting the filament 11 has terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof as a main dicarboxylic acid component, and a glycol selected from ethylene glycol or 1,4 butanediol or an ester-forming derivative thereof. It is a polyester used as the main glycol component.

The above-mentioned polyester hollow filament 1
1 has four hollow portions 11a in the illustrated example, but the number thereof may be one and is arbitrary. By providing the hollow portion, a light weight and a soft tactile sensation can be obtained, but the preferable number is 2 to 5, and the most preferable number is 4. That is, when the number of the hollow portions 11a is 2 to 5, the hollow portion 11a is hardly crushed by the heat treatment during the false twisting and the twisting action accompanying the twisting, and both the hot water elasticity and the hollow ratio are reduced. It is easier to maintain at a high level. On the other hand, when the number of the hollow portions 11a is less than two, the hollow portion 11a is easily crushed by the heat treatment during the false twisting and the twisting action accompanying the twisting. The thickness becomes thin, and it becomes difficult to maintain both the hot water stretch fastness and the hollow ratio at a high level.

Since the hollow filament 11 has at least one hollow portion 11a, the hollow filament 11 is flattened by false twisting and has a lower hollow ratio than before false twisting. It has a hollow ratio, an average flat irregularity of 1.20 to 1.50, and a hot water stretch fastness of 3.0 to 6.
Since it is 0%, as shown in FIG. 1, a large number of hollow filaments 11 are flattened and mixed in various shapes while maintaining the hollow portion 11a. It becomes a textured twisted yarn. The hollow ratio is a ratio of the cross-sectional area of the hollow portion to the entire cross-sectional area of the filament expressed as a percentage, and the average hollow ratio is an average value of ten measured values.

However, if the average flattened irregularity is out of the above range, the object of the invention cannot be achieved. That is,
When the average flat irregularity is less than 1.20, the soft feeling is poor, and the cracking of the filament is apt to occur and the snagging property is reduced.
% Or less, the lightness and heat retention are poor, and a resilient soft texture cannot be obtained. If the hot water stretch fastness is less than 3.0%, the bulkiness of the knitted fabric obtained by knitting is reduced, the entanglement of the yarn (false twisted yarn) is reduced, and the knitted fabric is easily broken, and the snacking property is improved. Gets worse,
If it exceeds 6.0%, the bulkiness becomes too large, the elasticity is lost, and a unique texture cannot be obtained.

The flat irregularity of the filament is as follows:
When the length of the major axis of the filament cross section is A and the length of the minor axis is B, it is represented by B / A. The average flat irregularity of the present invention refers to an average of ten measured values.

[0012] The hot water stretch fastness is defined as follows. That is, an skein of eight turns is made using a wrap reel (perimeter of 1000 m or 1125 m) provided with an appropriate tension device. The operation of bundling the two parts together with another thread so that the skein is not disturbed, forming the figure of eight, folding and forming a loop is repeated twice. Hook this on 5/100
With a load of 0 × 8 × 2 × 2 × 2 × denier indicated, g is immersed in boiling water in which the penetrant is dissolved at a concentration of 2 g / l for 15 minutes. The sample was taken out of the boiling water, returned to the original 8-roll skein state, put on a hook and kept in a wet state with a load of 2/10 x 8 x 2 x the indicated denier g, and the length after 1 minute (A) is measured. Next, the load was removed, and the hook was held without any load.
After drying in a dryer at 0 ± 2 ° C. for 30 minutes, leaving it in the test room in the standard condition for 1 hour or more, apply a load of 2/1000 × 8 × 2 × denier indicated, and apply a load of 1 g after 1 minute. (B) is measured, and the hot water stretch fastness (CD) is calculated by the following equation. The number of tests is two or more, and the average value is shown (up to one decimal place). Hot water stretch fastness (CD) (%) = (ab) / a × 10
0

The above-mentioned polyester-based false twisted yarn is produced as follows. First, the polyester is melt-spun using a nozzle for a hollow fiber according to a conventional method, and the discharged yarn is cooled and solidified, oiled to obtain an undrawn yarn, and the undrawn yarn is drawn at a predetermined magnification. Then, a multifilament yarn (drawn yarn) composed of a large number of hollow filaments is obtained. In this case, the number of hollow portions of the hollow filament is
As described above, the number is set to 2 to 5. The hollow ratio is 1
Set to 5% or more. When the hollow ratio is less than 15%, the hollow portion 1 is twisted under heating at the time of the next false twisting.
1a is crushed, and it becomes extremely difficult to maintain the hollow ratio at 10% or more and to obtain high hot water stretch fastness.

In the next false twisting step, the twist coefficient of the false twist is 140
In the range of 00 to 25000, the tension in the twisting area is 0.2 to 0.7 g.
/ D, the tension in the untwisting region is set to 0.4 to 1.2 g / d, and the heat setting temperature is set to 150 to 200 ° C. Twisting coefficient is less than 14000 or tension in twisted area is 0.2
g / d or a tension of 0.4 g / d
If it is less than d, the resulting hot-twisted yarn will not have a hot water stretch resistance of 3.0%, and a knitted fabric with high bulkiness and excellent snagging properties cannot be obtained.
Conversely, when the twist coefficient is more than 25,000, the tension in the twisted area is more than 0.7 g / d, and the tension in the untwisted area is more than 1.2 g / d, false twisting is performed. Thread breaks and fluff occur in the process.

The heat setting temperature in the false twisting step is 1
When the temperature is lower than 50 ° C., the hot-water stretch resistance of the false twisted yarn is less than 3.0%, the bulkiness of the knitted fabric is insufficient, and a soft and resilient texture cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 200 ° C., the cross-sectional shape of the filament is crushed, the average flat irregularity exceeds 1.6, and the hollow ratio is less than 10%, the lightness and the heat retention are poor, and the soft elasticity is low. The texture cannot be obtained.

[0016]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS As shown in FIG. 2, a plurality of hollow fiber discharge ports 16 in which four arc-shaped discharge ports 16b are disposed around a cross-shaped discharge port 16a are arranged in a polyester from a nozzle. Is melt-spun and cooled and solidified to form four hollow portions 17.
a (see FIG. 3), an undrawn multifilament yarn comprising a large number of hollow filaments 17 is obtained. Next, the undrawn yarn is drawn to produce a drawn multifilament yarn comprising a large number of hollow filaments having a hollow ratio of 15 to 40%.

Next, the above drawn yarn is guided to a false twisting machine, and the twist coefficient of false twist is 14000 to 25000, the yarn tension in the twisted area is 0.2 to 0.7 g / d, and the yarn tension in the untwisted area is 0.4 ~
1.2 g / d, the heat setting temperature is set to 150 to 200 ° C., respectively, and false twisting is performed, the average hollowness of the filament is 10% or more, the average flat irregularity is 1.20 to 1.50, and the hot water elasticity is strong. A polyester false twisted yarn having a degree of 3.0 to 6.0% is obtained. The obtained polyester false twisted yarn is knitted or woven into an arbitrary structure using a loom, a weft knitting machine, a warp knitting machine, or the like, and is used for clothing such as sports clothing, general outer clothing, and shirts.

[0018]

EXAMPLE Polyester multifilament yarns of 65 denier and 18 filaments having different numbers of hollow portions and different hollow ratios were spun and drawn, and further subjected to false twisting under various conditions to obtain Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Was produced. And the hot water stretch resistance of the obtained false twisted yarn,
The average flat irregularity and the average hollow ratio were measured.
In addition, using the false twisted yarn, a 26-gauge smooth knitted fabric is knitted, dyed by a conventional method, finished and set, and the bulkiness (specific volume) of the knitted fabric is determined according to JIS-L-1.
097, and the snagging property is JIS-L-10
58 (D-1 method). Further, the feel and resilience of the finished knitted fabric were evaluated by a sensory test of 10 panelists.

The sensory test and the overall evaluation were good (）), normal (）), slightly bad (△) and bad (×).
Was carried out in four stages. In addition, "Example" is "actual",
“Comparative example” was abbreviated as “ratio”. In addition, “Twisting area tension” is “T ₁ ”, “untwisting area tension” is “T ₂ ”, “heat setting temperature during false twisting” is “temperature”, and “average hollow rate” is “hollow rate”. ”,“ Average flat irregularity ”is“ irregularity ”,“ hot water elasticity ”is“ fastness ”, and“ snagging ”is“ s ”.
nag ".

Table 1 Real 2 Real 3 Ratio 1 Ratio 2 Ratio 3 Ratio 4 Yarn fineness (d / f) 65/18 〃 〃 〃 〃 〃 〃 Hollow portion (piece) 4 4 1 4 4 4 1 Hollow ratio ( %) 30 20 30 30 30 10 20 false twisting conditions twist coefficient (times / m) 15200 20000 16000 26400 12000 26400 26400 T 1 (g / d) 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.2 0.8 0.2 0.2 T 2 (g / d) 1.0 0.6 1.1 0.3 1.3 0.3 0.3 Temperature (℃) 180 200 175 210 140 210 210 False twisted yarn Hollowness (%) 21 12 14 7 25 4 3 Deformity (%) 1.25 1.42 1.35 1.81 1.10 1.75 1.89 Robustness (%) 4.1 5.3 3.5 7.1 1.2 9.8 8.5 Finished knitted basis weight ^{(g / m 2) 111 110} 109 112 109 111 112 bulkiness ^{(cm 3 / g) 7.0 6.8} 5.9 7.5 5.3 7.7 7.2 snag ( grade) 3-4 3-4 3 3 4 1-2 3-4 3 Tactile sensation ◎ ◎ ○ ○ × △ △ Elasticity ◎ ○ ○ × ◎ × × Overall evaluation ◎ ◎ ○ △ × × ×

As can be seen from the above table, Examples 1 to 3
In Examples 1 and 2 in which the overall evaluation was more than ordinary, and particularly in Examples 1 and 2 in which the number of hollow portions was four, the bulkiness, snagging property, tactile sensation and resilience were improved as compared with Example 3 in which one hollow portion was used. Was excellent in overall evaluation. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since the twist coefficient at the time of false twisting was too large, the tension in the untwisting region was small, and the heat setting temperature was high, the hollow portion was crushed and the hollow ratio of the false twisted yarn was insufficient. On the other hand, the average flat irregularity and the hot water elasticity were excessively high, so that the elasticity of the knitted fabric was poor and the overall evaluation was slightly poor. In Comparative Example 2, the twisting factor during false twisting was small, the tension was excessive, and the heat setting temperature was low, so that the collapse of the hollow portion was small, but the average flat irregularity and the hot water elasticity were insufficient. Poor bulkiness, lack of softness, poor tactile sensation, and poor snagging. Further, Comparative Example 3 has a low hollow ratio of the original yarn, an excessive twisting coefficient and untwisting area tension during false twisting, and an excessively high heat setting temperature.
The hollow ratio was insufficient, the average flatness irregularity and the hot water stretch resistance were excessive, and the bulkiness of the knitted fabric was good, but the elasticity was lacking. Further, in Comparative Example 4, although the hollow ratio of the original yarn was larger than that in Comparative Example 3, the twist coefficient at the time of false twisting was
Since the untwisting area tension and the heat setting temperature were the same as in Comparative Example 3, the hollowness was insufficient as in Comparative Example 3, and the average flatness irregularity and the hot water stretch resistance were excessive, and the elasticity was lacking. Was.

[0022]

As described above, the polyester false twisted yarn according to the first aspect of the present invention has both high hollowness and high hot water elasticity, and is lightweight and excellent in bulkiness. It is soft, has high resilience, has good snagging properties, and is suitable as a knitted fabric for clothing. According to the second aspect of the present invention, the polyester false twisted yarn according to the first aspect can be easily manufactured.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a sectional view of a false twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing a discharge port of a spinning nozzle.

FIG. 3 is a sectional view of a drawn filament.

[Explanation of symbols]

 10: False twisted yarn 11: Hollow filament 11a: Hollow part 16: Hollow fiber discharge port 17: Hollow filament after drawing 17a: Hollow part

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A false twisted yarn comprising a polyester filament having a hollow cross section, wherein the filament has an average hollowness of 10% or more and an average flatness irregularity of 1.20 to 1.
50. A polyester false twisted yarn having a hot water stretch resistance of 3.0 to 6.0%. 2. When performing false twisting on a polyester multifilament yarn comprising a polyester filament having a hollow cross section, the twist coefficient is set to 14,000 to 25,000,
Twisting area tension is 0.2 to 0.7 g / d, untwisting area tension is 0.4 to 1.2 g / d, and heat setting temperature is 150 to 200 g / d.
A method for producing a polyester-based false twisted yarn, wherein the yarn is set at a temperature of ° C.