JP7515794B2 - Second agent for acid hair straightening, acid permanent wave and acid heat permanent wave - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an acidic hair straightening agent, an acidic permanent wave agent, and a second agent for an acidic heat type permanent wave, which have a long-lasting hair straightening effect and curling effect.

In general hair straightening, curls can be straightened by the action of a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent as main components and mechanical treatment at high temperature. Specifically, a first agent containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or its salt, cysteamine or its salt, and an alkaline agent such as ammonia water, monoethanolamine, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, etc. is applied to the hair to reduce and cleave the disulfide bonds present in the keratin protein, followed by intermediate washing with water, drying with a hair dryer, etc., and straightening by mechanical treatment at high temperature with an iron, and then treating with a second agent mainly containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to oxidize and re-form the disulfide groups and fix the hair in a straight shape.

A typical permanent wave can form curls by the action of a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent as main components. Specifically, a first agent containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or its salt, cysteamine or its salt, and an alkaline agent such as ammonia water, monoethanolamine, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, arginine, etc. is applied to hair wound around a rod to reduce and cleave the disulfide bonds present in the keratin protein, followed by intermediate washing with water and treatment with a second agent mainly containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to oxidize and re-form the disulfide groups, thereby fixing the hair in a curled state.

A typical heat-type permanent wave can form curls by the action of a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent as main components and by treatment at high temperature. Specifically, a first agent containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or its salt, cysteamine or its salt, and an alkaline agent such as ammonia water, monoethanolamine, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, arginine, etc. is applied to the hair to reduce and cleave the disulfide bonds present in the keratin protein, followed by intermediate washing with water, wrapping the hair around a heating rod and treating it at high temperature to form a curl, and then treating the hair with a second agent mainly containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate either before or after removing the heating rod, to oxidize and re-form the disulfide groups and fix the curl.

However, in all of hair straightening, permanent waving and heat-type permanent waving, the alkaline first agent acts on the hair, causing it to swell and soften, resulting in damage to the hair and reducing its elasticity, so attempts have been made to make the first agent acidic. However, if a second agent suitable for the alkaline first agent is used with an acidic first agent, the second agent cannot fully exert its effect, so there is a demand for the development of a second agent suitable for the acidic first agent.

Patent Document 1 discloses an alkaline permanent wave agent containing 0.4-10% by weight of a buffer and 3.0-15.0% by weight of sodium bromate and having a pH of 6.0-8.0, and an oxidizing agent for perm treatment in the form of an acidic permanent wave agent. The object of this patent is to obtain an oxidizing agent which is stable as a commercial product, can be set to a desired pH value in a short time without the need for skilled technicians or the use of pH test paper or a pH meter, can maintain a stable oxidizing ability, can neutralize the bonds (ionic bonds) of keratin protein in hair to the most stable state, and can be used in a safe state for the human body, and an acid or an aqueous acid solution is added at the time of use to adjust the pH to 4.05-5.00. The reason is that, due to the characteristics of sodium bromate, it is stable at around pH 6.0 to 9.0 when stored as a product, and while an acidic pH during use gives a stronger and more stable oxidation effect, if the pH is lower than 4.05, the oxidation potential increases abnormally and the oxidizing agent generates more oxidizing power than necessary, which may denature or damage the keratin protein in the skin and hair, etc. In other words, a pH of 4.05 to 5.00 is essential during use, and there is no description of the durability of the waves of permanent wave agents.

Patent Document 2 discloses an acidic permanent wave agent composition that has a strong wave-forming ability when used in a normal manner, comprising a first agent containing 5 to 7% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid or its salts, or cysteine, and having an acidic pH due to a specific combination of acid and alkali, and a second agent containing 6 to 12% by weight of an oxidizing agent consisting of sodium bromate and hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH of 4 to 6. This method can provide excellent wave-forming ability at room temperature and can suppress damage to hair in a normal manner, but there is no description of the wave durability of the permanent wave agent. It also describes that the first agent is an acidic composition having a pH of 5.5 to 7.0 and is low alkaline. In other words, it relates to an alkaline second agent for permanent waves that is substantially alkaline.

Patent Document 3 discloses a two-bath type permanent wave second agent composition that contains at least an oxidizing agent, an acidic amino acid, and a basic amino acid, has a buffer capacity of 0.001 gram equivalent/L or more, and when the oxidizing agent is a bromate compound, has a pH adjusted to a range of 4.5 to 7.0. In this method, since the second agent composition has a buffer capacity due to the inclusion of an acidic amino acid and a basic amino acid, the pH range appropriate for the second agent composition is always maintained, and a good oxidizing action of the oxidizing agent is ensured, and since an acidic to weakly acidic pH close to the isoelectric point of hair is maintained, it is preferable for protecting hair and can prevent the feel and damage of hair, but there is no description regarding the durability of the wave of the permanent wave agent. In addition, the two-bath type permanent wave agent according to this patent is composed of a first agent composition containing at least a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, and relates to a substantially alkaline permanent wave second agent.

JP 60-197616 A Tokuho 6-78216 Patent No. 4612250

The present invention has been made in consideration of the shortcomings of the conventional technology, and aims to provide a second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave that has a highly durable hair straightening effect and curling effect.

The present inventors have conducted intensive research to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result have discovered that a hair straightening effect and curling effect that are highly sustained can be achieved by using a first agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave that contains a reducing agent and has a pH of 4.0 to 5.5, and contains 5 to 10% by mass of bromate, and has a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 and 2 to 10% by mass of an organic acid salt excluding bromate and/or a phosphate, thereby completing the present invention.

That is, the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave of the present invention is characterized in that it contains 5 to 10% by mass of bromate, has a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, and contains 2 to 10% by mass of an organic acid salt and/or a phosphate other than bromate, and is for use after treating hair with a first agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave that contains a reducing agent and has a pH of 4.0 to 5.5.

The second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention makes it possible to achieve a long-lasting hair straightening effect and curling effect.

<Second agent for acid hair straightening, acid permanent wave and acid heat permanent wave>
The second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention essentially contains a bromate and an organic acid salt other than bromate and/or a phosphate. The present invention will be described in detail below.

The content of the bromate is 5 to 10% by mass, preferably 6 to 7.5% by mass, based on the total amount of the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention. If the content is less than 5% by mass, sufficient hair straightening effect and long-lasting curling effect cannot be obtained, while if the content exceeds 10% by mass, an improvement in the long-lasting hair straightening effect and curling effect commensurate with the content cannot be expected.

Examples of the bromate include sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The content of the organic acid salt and/or phosphate, excluding bromate, is 2 to 10% by mass, preferably 4 to 6% by mass, based on the total amount of the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention. If the content is less than 2% by mass, a sufficient hair straightening effect and a curling effect that lasts long cannot be obtained, while if the content exceeds 10% by mass, an improvement in the persistence of the hair straightening effect and curling effect commensurate with the content cannot be expected.

The organic acid salts other than bromates are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include sodium salts, ammonium salts, and basic amino acid salts of monocarboxylic acids such as levulinic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and basic amino acid salts of dicarboxylic acids such as maleic acid and malic acid, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and basic amino acid salts of tricarboxylic acids such as citric acid, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and basic amino acid salts of acidic amino acids such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid, and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and basic amino acid salts of acids that have a particular chelating effect such as etidronic acid, edetic acid, and phytic acid. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention must be maintained at a pH in the range of 6.0 to 7.5, preferably 6.5 to 7.0. If the pH is less than 6.0, a sufficient hair straightening effect and a curling effect that lasts long cannot be obtained, and even if the pH exceeds 7.5, a sufficient hair straightening effect and a curling effect that lasts long cannot be obtained.
The acidic component for adjusting the pH of the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave within the above range is not particularly limited, but may be an organic acid such as lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, acidic amino acid, or an inorganic acid such as phosphoric acid. The basic component for adjusting the pH within the above range is not particularly limited, but may be an organic base such as ammonia water, triethanolamine, or basic amino acid, or an inorganic base such as sodium hydroxide.

In addition to the bromate and the organic acid salt other than the bromate and/or the phosphate, other ingredients usually used in cosmetics and quasi-drugs can be added to the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave and acidic heat-type permanent wave of the present invention as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired. Examples of such ingredients include cationic polymers, anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins, sequestering agents, oils, powder components, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, thickeners, fragrances, colorants, water, etc.

The formulation of the second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heated permanent wave of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the desired effect is sufficiently exhibited, and may be, for example, a liquid, emulsion, gel, foam, cream, or other formulation.

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. In the following examples, the blend amounts are expressed as mass % unless otherwise specified.

(Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2)
The second acidic hair straightening agent having the composition shown in Table 1 below was prepared by mixing each component in purified water with stirring until homogeneous, and then adding lactic acid to adjust the pH to 6.7.
The durability of the hair straightening effect of the obtained acidic second agent for hair straightening was evaluated by the following method.

Also, an acidic hair straightening first agent containing a reducing agent and having a pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.5 was prepared by stirring and mixing each component in purified water until it became uniform.
Ammonium thioglycolate 2.0%
Ammonium thiolactate 5.0%
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.5%
Lactic acid Adjusted to pH 4.75 Purified water Remainder

<Creating test hair bundles for acidic hair straightening>
Naturally curly hair (Indian black hair) was trimmed to a length of 30 cm when stretched, and hair bundles weighing 3 g were prepared. Each hair bundle was then treated with a commercially available 8-level oxidative hair dye, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed and hung vertically, and left at room temperature for 24 hours. After that, each hair bundle was again treated with a commercially available 8-level oxidative hair dye, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and prepared as test hair bundles for acidic hair straightening.

<Hair straightening treatment>
Apply 6 g of the first agent for acidic hair straightening to two test hair bundles for acidic hair straightening, and leave them at 55°C for 20 minutes. Then, thoroughly wash off the first agent for acidic hair straightening with hot water. After thoroughly towel drying, dry with a hair dryer, and straighten the hair with a hair straightening iron heated to 190°C for 10 seconds. Next, apply 9 g of the adjusted second agent for acidic hair straightening, leave them at room temperature for 15 minutes, and thoroughly wash off the second agent for acidic hair straightening with hot water. Thoroughly towel dry, arrange with a comb, fix one end of the hair bundle, hang it vertically, and leave it at room temperature for 24 hours.

<Evaluation of the durability of hair straightening effect>
One of the strands was immersed in a 2% aqueous solution of sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate at 60°C for 30 minutes, thoroughly rinsed with hot water, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the strand fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle a. The remaining strand was thoroughly wetted with hot water so that it could be hung at the same time as hair bundle a, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the strand fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle b. The two strands were left at room temperature for 24 hours and thoroughly dried, and then evaluated by three hairdressers with over 10 years of experience according to the following evaluation criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
The durability of the hair straightening effect is evaluated for hair bundle a in comparison with hair bundle b.
1. The hair tends to go back to normal.
2. The curl tends to return to its original shape and spread out.
3. There is almost no curl back, and it stays neat.
4. There is almost no return to normal curls, and the hair is well-formed.
5. No frizz and shine.

As shown in Examples 1 to 8, when the bromate content was 5 to 10 mass %, a sufficient duration of the hair straightening effect was obtained. In contrast, as shown in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, when the bromate content was outside the above range, the duration of the hair straightening effect was insufficient.

(Examples 9 to 20 and Comparative Examples 3 to 9)
The second acidic hair straightening agent having the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared by mixing each component in purified water with stirring until homogeneous, and then adding lactic acid to adjust the pH to 6.7.
The durability of the hair straightening effect of the obtained second acidic hair straightening agent was evaluated by the above-mentioned method.

As shown in Examples 9 to 20, when the organic acid salt other than bromate and/or the phosphate was contained in an amount of 2 to 10 mass %, a sufficient durability of the hair straightening effect was obtained. In contrast, as shown in Comparative Examples 3 to 9, when the content of the organic acid salt other than bromate and/or the phosphate was outside the above range, the durability of the hair straightening effect was insufficient.

(Examples 21 to 24 and Comparative Examples 10 to 13)
The second acidic hair straightening agent having the composition shown in Table 3 below was prepared by stirring and mixing each component in purified water until homogeneous, and then adding lactic acid or phosphoric acid to adjust the pH to the value shown in Table 3.
The durability of the hair straightening effect of the obtained second acidic hair straightening agent was evaluated by the above-mentioned method.

As shown in Examples 21 to 24, when the pH was 6.0 to 7.5, a sufficient duration of the hair straightening effect was obtained. In contrast, as shown in Comparative Examples 10 to 13, when the pH was outside the above range, the duration of the hair straightening effect was insufficient.

(Examples 25 to 31 and Comparative Examples 14 to 17)
The second agent for acidic permanent waves having the composition shown in Table 4 below was prepared by mixing each component in purified water with stirring until homogenous, and then adding lactic acid to adjust the pH to the prescribed level.
The durability of the curling effect of the obtained second agent for acidic permanent wave was evaluated by the following method.

Also, an acidic first agent for permanent waves containing a reducing agent and having a pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.5 was prepared by stirring and mixing each component in purified water until homogeneous.
Ammonium thioglycolate 2.0%
Ammonium thiolactate 5.0%
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.5%
Lactic acid Adjusted to pH 5.50 Purified water Remainder

<Creating test hair bundles for acidic permanent waves>
Chinese hair is cut to a length of 25 cm, and a hair bundle weighing 3 g is prepared.Then, each hair bundle is treated with a commercially available 8-level oxidative hair dye, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and one end of the hair bundle is fixed and hung vertically, and left at room temperature for 24 hours.After that, each hair bundle is treated again with a commercially available 8-level oxidative hair dye, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and prepared as a test hair bundle for acidic permanent wave.

<Permanent wave treatment>
Two hair bundles for acidic permanent wave tests are wound around a rod, and 6 g of the first agent for acidic permanent wave is applied to each of them, and the hair bundles are left at 55°C for 20 minutes. After that, the first agent for acidic permanent wave is thoroughly washed off with hot water. Next, 6 g of the adjusted second agent for acidic permanent wave is applied to each of them, and the hair bundles are left at room temperature for 15 minutes. The hair is then removed from the rod, and the second agent for acidic permanent wave is thoroughly washed off with hot water. The hair bundles are thoroughly towel-dried, and the hair bundles are arranged with a comb, and one end of the hair bundles is fixed and hung vertically, and the hair bundles are left at room temperature for 24 hours.

<Evaluation of curl effect durability>
One of the hair strands was immersed in a 2% polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate Na aqueous solution at 60°C for 10 minutes, thoroughly rinsed with hot water, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle c. The remaining hair strand was thoroughly wetted with hot water so that it could be hung at the same time as hair bundle c, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle d. The two hair bundles were left at room temperature for 24 hours and thoroughly dried, and then evaluated by three hairdressers with more than 10 years of experience according to the following evaluation criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
The durability of the curl effect is evaluated for hair bundle c in comparison with hair bundle d.
1. The curl is almost gone.
2. The curls become slightly less pronounced and the hair spreads out.
3. The curls have been slightly lost, but the hair is still neatly put together.
4. Most of the curls remain and are neatly put together.
5. The curl remains.

As shown in Examples 25 to 31, when the composition contained 5 to 10% by mass of bromate, had a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, and contained 2 to 10% by mass of an organic acid salt other than bromate and/or a phosphate, sufficient curling effect was sustained. In contrast, as shown in Comparative Examples 14 to 17, when the composition was outside the above range, the curling effect was not sustained sufficiently.

(Examples 32 to 38 and Comparative Examples 18 to 21)
The second agent for an acidic heat-type permanent wave having the composition shown in Table 5 below was prepared by mixing each component in purified water with stirring until homogeneous, and then adding lactic acid to adjust the pH to the prescribed level.
The curling effect of the obtained second agent for acidic heat-type permanent wave was evaluated for durability by the following method.

Also, a first agent for an acidic heat-type permanent wave containing a reducing agent and having a pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.5 was prepared by stirring and mixing each component in purified water until homogeneous.
Ammonium thioglycolate 2.0%
Ammonium thiolactate 5.0%
Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.5%
Lactic acid Adjust to pH 4.0 Purified water Remainder

<Preparation of test hair bundles for acid-heated permanent waves>
Chinese hair was trimmed to a length of 25 cm, and hair bundles weighing 3 g were prepared. Each hair bundle was then treated with a commercially available bleach, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed and hung vertically, and left at room temperature for 24 hours. After that, each hair bundle was again treated with a commercially available 8-level oxidation hair dye, washed twice with a commercially available shampoo, thoroughly towel-dried, and prepared as test hair bundles for acidic heat permanent waves.

<Heated permanent wave treatment>
Apply 6 g of the first agent for acidic heated permanent wave to two test hair bundles for acidic heated permanent wave, and leave them at 55°C for 20 minutes. Then, rinse thoroughly with hot water to remove the first agent for acidic heated permanent wave. After towel drying, wrap the hair around a heating rod, and leave it at 90°C for 10 minutes to curl the hair. Next, apply 9 g of the adjusted second agent for acidic heated permanent wave, and leave it at room temperature for 15 minutes. Remove the hair from the heating rod, and rinse thoroughly with hot water to remove the second agent for acidic heated permanent wave. Thoroughly towel dry, arrange with a comb, fix one end of the hair bundle, hang it vertically, and leave it at room temperature for 24 hours.

<Evaluation of curl effect durability>
One of the hair strands was immersed in a 2% aqueous solution of sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate at 60°C for 30 minutes, thoroughly rinsed with hot water, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle e. The remaining hair strand was thoroughly wetted with hot water so that it could be hung at the same time as hair bundle e, thoroughly towel-dried, combed, and one end of the hair bundle was fixed to hang vertically to make hair bundle f. The two hair bundles were left at room temperature for 24 hours and thoroughly dried, and then evaluated by three hairdressers with over 10 years of experience according to the following evaluation criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
The durability of the curl effect is evaluated for hair bundle e in comparison with hair bundle f.
1. The curl is almost gone.
2. The curls become slightly less pronounced and the hair spreads out.
3. The curls have been slightly lost, but the hair is still neatly put together.
4. Most of the curls remain and are neatly put together.
5. The curl remains.

As shown in Examples 32 to 38, when the composition contained 5 to 10% by mass of bromate, had a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, and contained 2 to 10% by mass of an organic acid salt other than bromate and/or a phosphate, sufficient duration of the curling effect was obtained. In contrast, as shown in Comparative Examples 18 to 21, when the composition was outside the above range, the duration of the curling effect was insufficient.

Claims (1)

The second agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heat-type permanent wave contains 5 to 10% by mass of bromate, has a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, and contains 2 to 10% by mass of an organic acid salt excluding bromate , for use after treating hair with a first agent for acidic hair straightening, acidic permanent wave, and acidic heat-type permanent wave that contains a reducing agent and has a pH of 4.0 to 5.5.