JP3057147B2 - Permanent wave intermediate treatment composition and permanent wave treatment method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention is used after a first permanent wave agent or a first straightening agent for curly hair to suppress damage to the hair, enhance the waving effect or the straightening effect of the hair, and furthermore, to give an unpleasant odor. The present invention relates to a permanent wave intermediate treatment agent composition for reducing the amount of permanent wave, and a permanent wave treatment method using the composition.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Generally, a permanent waving method or a hair straightening method is a first agent mainly composed of a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or a salt thereof or cysteine or a cysteine derivative. The bond is reduced and opened, and the hair is kept in a wave state or a straight state using a rod or a comb, and then a second agent mainly containing an oxidizing agent such as bromate, perborate, hydrogen peroxide or the like is used. In this method, the S--S bond in the hair is oxidatively closed and fixed in a wave or straight state.

However, in these methods, when the SS bond in the hair is cleaved, mixed disulfide in which a mercapto compound is bonded to a cysteine residue in the hair, or lanthionine is formed. In some cases, this may lead to a decrease in hair strength, a decrease in feel, and a wave down. Further, in order to enhance the wave effect and the straightening effect of the hair, it is conceivable to extend the standing time by re-coating the first agent, but in this case, the hair may be damaged due to overtime. For this reason, various permanent wave intermediate treatment compositions have been proposed in order to improve these disadvantages. For example, JP
2-246509 discloses a combination of a keratin hydrolyzate and a cationic activator, which suppresses hair deterioration and improves wave forming power. However, since the treatment agent has an acidic pH, the hair is treated with an acid. Abruptly reducing the risk of hair damage and reduced feel. Also, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No.
In -294814, a compound containing a carbonate or a bicarbonate is proposed, but it is used for an acidic to weakly alkaline permanent wave agent, and a general alkaline permanent wave agent has sufficient wave forming power. It did not improve. Furthermore, in the case of a general permanent waving agent, unpleasant odors such as hydrogen sulfide and methyl mercaptan are generated during the treatment, which causes discomfort to the practitioner and the practitioner. Furthermore, the unpleasant odor often remained after the perm treatment. For this reason, sulfite curling agents using sulfites or bisulfites that do not have these unpleasant odors and have a mild effect on hair, but they have a weak reducing power, so they make enough waves There was a drawback that it was not possible.

[0004]

Therefore, in the conventional permanent treatment, the wave effect or the straight effect can be easily increased without damaging the hair or impairing the feel.
Further, development of a permanent wave intermediate treatment composition and a treatment method thereof capable of reducing unpleasant odor has been desired.

[0005]

Under such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies and as a result, they have found that they contain one or more selected from the group consisting of sulfites and bisulfites, and further contain silicone. The present invention has been found that the use of a permanent wave intermediate treatment composition characterized by containing a derivative and a polyhydric alcohol enhances the wave effect or straightening effect and further reduces unpleasant odor while suppressing hair damage. Was completed. That is, the present invention provides a permanent wave intermediate treatment composition containing (A) a sulfite or a hydrogen sulfite, (B) a silicone derivative and (C) a polyhydric alcohol, and having a pH of 7 to 11. It is. In addition, after treating with the first permanent wave agent or the first curly hair straightening agent, apply an intermediate wave intermediate treatment agent with or without intermediate washing, leave it for a certain period of time, and then wash with water. An object of the present invention is to provide a treatment method characterized by performing a treatment with rinsing and a second agent.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. Examples of the sulfite or bisulfite as the component (A) used in the present invention include sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolamine and arginine salts of sulfurous acid or hydrogen sulfite. In the present invention, one or more of these are used. The compounding amount of the sulfite or bisulfite is 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total amount of the composition. If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, sufficient wave effect and straight effect cannot be obtained,
On the other hand, if it is more than 10% by weight, no further wave effect or straight effect can be obtained, and it is not economical. The lower limit of the amount is preferably 0.5% by weight,
A sufficient wave effect and straight effect can be obtained by blending in an amount of not less than% by weight. The upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, the rise of the wave effect and the straight effect is reduced.

The following are examples of the silicone derivative (B) used in the present invention. 1) Dimethylpolysiloxane represented by the following general formula

Embedded image 2) Methylphenylpolysiloxane represented by the following general formula (1) or (2)

Embedded image 3) The following general formula (3), (4), (5) or (6)
Polyether-modified silicone represented by

Embedded image 4) Epoxy-modified silicone represented by the following general formula

Embedded image 5) Fluorine-modified silicone represented by the following general formula

Embedded image 6) Alcohol-modified silicone represented by the following general formula (7) or (8)

Embedded image 7) An alkyl-modified silicone represented by the following general formula (9) or (10)

Embedded image 8) Alkoxy-modified silicone represented by the following general formula

Embedded image 9) Amino-modified silicone represented by the following general formula (11) or (12)

Embedded image 10) Cyclic silicone represented by the following general formula

Embedded image In the present invention, among these, amino-modified silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane or methylphenylpolysiloxane is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of the wave effect and the straight effect.
01 to 10% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, sufficient wave effect and straight effect cannot be obtained,
On the other hand, when the content is more than 10% by weight, the effect of the main agent is hindered, the wave effect and the straight effect are reduced, and oil smearing may be caused to deteriorate the feel. The lower limit of the amount is preferably 0.1% by weight, and sufficient wave effect and straight effect can be obtained by adding 0.1% by weight or more. The upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, the rise of the wave effect and the straight effect is reduced.

The polyhydric alcohol (C) used in the present invention includes ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and highly polymerized polyethylene glycol. can give. Among them, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol and highly polymerized polyethylene glycol are preferred from the viewpoint of the wave effect and the straight effect. The compounding amount is 0.1 to 20% by weight based on the total amount of the composition. If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, the softening effect of the hair is weak, and the wave effect or the straightening effect cannot be improved. It is not economical because it cannot be obtained. The lower limit of the amount is 0.5% by weight.
It is preferable to add 0.5% by weight or more to obtain a sufficient wave effect and straight effect. The upper limit is preferably 10% by weight, and when it exceeds 10% by weight, the rise of the wave effect and the straight effect is reduced.

Further, the permanent wave intermediate treatment composition of the present invention is preferably adjusted to a pH of 7 to 11 from the viewpoint of a wave effect and a straight effect. pH 7
When the pH is less than 10, the stability of the sulfite or the bisulfite is deteriorated, so that it is not preferable. When the pH exceeds 11, it is not preferable in terms of irritation. To adjust this pH,
Acids such as citric acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, or
Alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide, ammonia and monoethanolamine can be used as pH adjusters.

[0010] In addition to the above essential components, the permanent wave intermediate treatment composition of the present invention may further comprise, if necessary, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant. Agents, oils, higher alcohols, natural polymers, thickeners, polymer compounds such as cationized polymers and anionic polymers, antioxidants, sequestering agents, humectants, ultraviolet absorbers, fragrances, dyes, etc. can do. Also, as a dosage form,
Not only liquid but also cream, gel, foam aerosol, spray or the like is possible.

[0011] The permanent wave intermediate treatment composition may be a permanent wave first agent or a hair straightening first agent.
It is preferable to use after treating with an agent from the viewpoint of the wave effect and the straight effect. Furthermore, in order to enhance the effect of the present invention, it is preferable to use the mixture by heating at 30 to 60 ° C. for 5 to 20 minutes. In addition, when the permanent wave intermediate treatment agent of the present invention is used as a pretreatment of the first permanent wave agent or the first agent for straightening hair, it is not preferable because damage to hair is promoted. In addition, when the permanent wave intermediate treatment agent of the present invention is used alone, it is not preferable because sufficient wave effect and straight effect cannot be obtained.

[0012]

Next, the present invention will be described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

When performing the permanent wave treatment using the following permanent wave first and second agents, the permanent wave intermediate treatment compositions (Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3) shown in Table 1 are used. , Wave effect and wave retention. The results are shown in Table 2. Example 1 of Permanent Wave Intermediate Treatment Composition
The wave effect, the wave holding power, the degree of damage to the hair and the reactive odor were measured in the same manner as in Table 3 using the following methods. The results are shown in Table 4. Each measuring method and evaluation method are as follows.

1. Measurement of wave effect 30 healthy hair of a 30-year-old Japanese male without chemical treatment such as perm, bleach, and hair color (length 15c
The bundle of m) was used as a hair bundle for measurement, washed with a 1% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate, rinsed well, and air-dried. The hair bundle was wound around a wave effect measuring instrument while applying a constant load (5 g) using the hair bundle. Apply the first part of permanent wave to this hair bundle,
After standing for 10 minutes, a permanent wave intermediate treatment agent was applied, left at 37 ° C. for 10 minutes, and washed with water. next,
Fully apply permanent wave 2nd agent and add
After leaving for a minute and washing with water, the hair bundle was removed from the device and allowed to air dry. The wavelength of this wave was measured, and the wave effect was calculated by applying the following equation.

(Equation 1) a: distance between the first rod and the sixth rod of the instrument b: length of the five peaks of the wavy hair bundle c: when straightening the wavy hair (five peaks) length

2. Wave retention The hair bundle used in the measurement of the wave effect was immersed in a 1% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate, left at 50 ° C. for 15 minutes (hereinafter referred to as an abuse test), rinsed lightly with water, and again subjected to the wave effect of the hair bundle. Was measured. Compared to the initial value, the closer to the initial value, the higher the holding power.

[0016]

(Equation 2)

3. Degree of Hair Damage The degree of damage of the hair bundle that had been subjected to the permanent treatment was evaluated using a scanning electron microscope according to the degree of lifting of the cuticle. That is,
Using the sample hair bundle adjusted so that a knot can be formed at the 2-3 cm portion from the root of the treated hair previously treated with the perm, the degree of lifting of the cuticle on the knot curved surface when this knot is pulled under certain conditions is determined by the following evaluation method evaluated. ◎: Very little damage… Cuticle hardly lifts up ○: Little damage… Part of the outermost layer of cuticles rises △ ： Some damage is observed… Outermost layer of cuticles lifts up overall × ： Damaged ... most of the cuticles are raised

4. Reactive odor A hair bundle (length: 15 cm, weight: 1.5 g) is created using hair having substantially the same condition (thickness, damage degree, etc.), and the first permanent wave agent is applied to the hair bundle. 3
Leave at 7 ° C. for 10 minutes, then apply a permanent wave intermediate treatment agent, leave at 37 ° C. for 10 minutes, and apply a permanent wave second agent and leave at room temperature for 15 minutes,
Thereafter, the hair was washed well and the hair smell when the hair was dried was evaluated. ◎: Very little unpleasant odor ○: Little unpleasant odor △: Some unpleasant odor ×: Very little unpleasant odor

5. Comprehensive evaluation ◎: very good ○: good △: normal ×: bad

[0020]

[Table 1] * 1: Toray Silicone SM8702C (Toray Silicone) * 2: Shin-Etsu Silicone KM-887 (Shin-Etsu Silicone) * 3: pH 9.0

Permanent wave first agent weight% ammonium thioglycolate (50%) 9.0 diammonium dithiodiglycolate (40%) 2.0 POE nonylphenyl ether (10EO) ^{* 1} 0.5 ammonia (pH Adjusted to 8.5) Appropriate amount Purified water Add an appropriate amount to 100 ml * 1: Nikkor NP-10 (manufactured by Nikkor) Permanent wave second agent weight% sodium bromate 6.0 POE nonylphenyl ether (10EO) ^{* 1} 0.5 Citric acid (pH adjusted to 6.0) qs Purified water qs to 100 ml * 1: Nikkor NP-10 (Nikkor)

[0022]

[Table 2] These results show that the use of the permanent wave intermediate treatment agent of the present invention enhances the wave effect and the retention.

[0023]

[Table 3]

[0024]

[Table 4] From these results, it can be seen that the method A has the highest wave effect and the highest retention, and the hair damage and the reactive odor are small.

Examples 3 and 4 Using the following first and second hair straightening agents and the permanent wave intermediate treatment composition shown in Table 5, the straightening effect, the degree of hair damage, and the reaction were obtained according to the above-mentioned method. The odor was evaluated. Table 6 shows the results. The evaluation method of the straight effect is as follows.

6. Evaluation of straightening effect 30 curly hairs of Japanese women in their 20s who have not been chemically treated such as perm, bleach or hair coloring (length 15cm)
The bundle was used as a hair bundle for measurement, washed with a 1% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate, rinsed well, and air-dried. Both ends of this hair bundle are fixed and fixed on the panel.
Then, apply 1 g of the first hair straightening agent to the whole,
Leave for 15 minutes. Next, the plate is thoroughly washed with water, a permanent wave intermediate treatment agent is applied, and the mixture is allowed to stand for 10 minutes. Then, 1 g of the second hair straightening agent is applied, left at room temperature for 15 minutes, and then washed with water. The hair bundle that was air-dried was evaluated for its straightening effect by comparing it with the initial state. ◎: Good growth throughout ○: Mostly growing △: Partially growing ×: Almost no growth

First hair straightening agent weight% Ammonium thioglycolate (50%) 16.0 Diammonium dithiodiglycolate (40%) 3.0 Cetanol 8.0 Liquid paraffin 2.0 POE cetyl ether (20EO) 3.0 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.0 Glycerin 5.0 Purified water balance Hair straightening second agent weight% Sodium bromate 8.0 Xanthan gum 3.0 Polyether-modified silicone ^{* 1} 1.0 PEG 1500 2.0 Purified water Balance * 1: SH3771E (Toray Silicone)

[0028]

[Table 5] * 1: Nikkor NET-HO (Nikkor) * 2: Amount to make pH 10

[0029]

[Table 6] These results show that the use of the permanent wave intermediate treatment agent of the present invention enhances the straightening effect and reduces hair damage and reactive odor.

Example 5 Weight% Sodium Sulfite 4.0 Monoethanolamine 2.0 Amino-Modified Silicone ^{* 1} 1.0 Cetyltrimethylammonium Chloride 2.0 Diglycerin 2.0 Wheat Protein Hydrolyzate ^{* 2} 1.0 Citric Acid (pH adjusted to 11) Appropriate amount Purified water Balance * 1: SM8702C (manufactured by Toray Silicone) * 2: Clopeptide W (manufactured by Croda)

Example 6 wt% sodium bisulfite 3.5 cetanol 5.0 methylphenylpolysiloxane 2.0 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 POE cetyl ether (15EO) 2.0 POE stearyl ether (2EO) 1 2.0 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 2.0 Pearl Calc hydrolyzate ^{* 1} 0.5 Purified water balance * 1: Promois P (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei) Using these permanent wave intermediate treatment agents of the present invention at 50 ° C. for 10 minutes The treatment enhanced the wave or straightening effect and reduced hair damage and reactive odor.

[0032]

By using the permanent wave intermediate treatment composition of the present invention between the first and second permanent wave agents, it is possible to enhance the wave effect or straightening effect of the hair and to suppress damage to the hair. it can. Further, the unpleasant odor after the treatment can be reduced.

Continuation of the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A61K ⁷ /06-7/115

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] (A) a sulfite or a bisulfite,
A permanent wave intermediate treatment composition comprising (B) a silicone derivative and (C) a polyhydric alcohol, and having a pH of 7 to 11. 2. The hair is treated with the permanent wave first agent or the first hair straightening agent, and then treated with the permanent wave intermediate treatment composition according to claim 1, and then the second permanent wave or the curly hair. A permanent wave treatment method characterized by treating with a second correction agent.