CN114642604A - Hair-perming auxiliary agent capable of improving hair-perming effect or reducing hair damage and hair-perming hot-perming method using same - Google Patents
Hair-perming auxiliary agent capable of improving hair-perming effect or reducing hair damage and hair-perming hot-perming method using same Download PDFInfo
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- CN114642604A CN114642604A CN202210263200.0A CN202210263200A CN114642604A CN 114642604 A CN114642604 A CN 114642604A CN 202210263200 A CN202210263200 A CN 202210263200A CN 114642604 A CN114642604 A CN 114642604A
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- perming
- agent
- waving
- oil
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a perming aid capable of improving perming effect or reducing hair damage, which contains water, and at least one of a humectant and a moisturizing composition or a combination of the humectant and the moisturizing composition; wherein: the humectant is one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol and panthenol; the moisturizing composition is a combination of an oily component and a surfactant, wherein the oily component is one or two or more of vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil, chemical synthetic oil and silicone oil; the surfactant is one or two or more of an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant; the humectant, the oily component and the surfactant have an evaporation pressure of less than 760mmHg at high temperature for heating and perming, and do not decompose; when the perming aid comprises the moisturizing composition, the oil-water separation phenomenon does not occur at the high temperature of heating perming. The invention also provides a hairdressing hot-wave method applying the perming auxiliary agent.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of hairdressing hot perm, and particularly relates to a perming auxiliary agent capable of improving perming effect or reducing hair damage and a hairdressing hot perm method using the perming auxiliary agent.
Background
The hair is mostly composed of insoluble keratin, and keratin accounts for more than 85%.Keratin is formed by mutually condensing amino acids into polypeptide chains, and then cross-linking the polypeptide chains through disulfide bonds (-S) -, which gives hair a firm structure. As early as the thirty years of the last century, it was discovered that these disulfide bonds can be interrupted by sulfide or sulfhydryl (-SH) -containing molecules in slightly alkaline solutions. This discovery provides a means for modern chemical perms, such as applying hair to a fabric containing thioglycolate ion (HSCH)2COO-) solution wets out, which, due to its reducing properties, breaks the disulfide groups in the hair into two thiol groups:
2HSCH2COO-(aq)+—S—S—(Hair)→(SCH2COO-)2(aq)+2HS-(Hair)
The hair which has lost the crosslinking action becomes very soft. The hair can then be curled up by a curling tool, and the polypeptide chains are displaced from one another induced by mechanical forces. At this time, the fixing liquid is added to fix the bent hair. The so-called "fixative" is in fact an oxidizing solution, which has the effect of making the hair form new disulfide bonds:
2HS-(Hair)+H2O2(aq)→—S—S—(Hair)+2H2O(l)
The hair polypeptide chains, again, recover their original toughness and form a permanent curly hair style, since many disulfide-based crosslinks are reformed. Typically, about 20% of the disulfide bonds in human hair are cleaved and about 90% of the broken disulfide bonds are reformed during styling.
It can be seen that permanent wave changes disulfide bonds, and the basic process of permanent wave is divided into two steps, the first step is to break the disulfide bonds in the hair by chemical reaction; the second step is the reconstitution and stabilization of the core structure.
The existing hair-care blanching techniques are roughly divided into two types, i.e., curling (e.g., digital waving) and straightening (e.g., ion waving). The working principle and method of the two types of blanching techniques are basically the same, and the method comprises the following steps:
the first step is as follows: the first agent for permanent wave, namely the softening agent, is coated on the hair, and the hair is softened after 1-20 minutes;
the softening agent comprises sulfur-containing compound (organic compound containing carbon-sulfur bond), such as ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine, as first agent for permanent wave, and can break disulfide bond in hair keratin after being applied on hair, thereby softening hair.
The second step is that: washing the first dose for perming, and wiping the hair dry;
the third step: heating hair-waving
When the hair is ironed and curled, the hair is firstly curled on a curling bar, the curling bar is heated by a blanching machine, or the hair is heated by a curling bar, the heating temperature is usually within the range of 60-140 ℃, the heating time is about 30 minutes, and the purpose is to ensure that keratin of the hair is physically deformed at high temperature to achieve the effect of curling hair;
when straightening hair, repeatedly straightening hair by using a hair-perming straightening plate clamp, wherein the temperature of the hair-perming straightening plate clamp is generally within the range of 140-230 ℃, and the aim of the hair-perming straightening plate clamp is to ensure that keratin of the hair is physically deformed under the action of high temperature so as to achieve the effect of straightening hair;
at this stage, the hair is in a dry state for most of the time during the heating process, since the high temperature enables the water to evaporate rapidly;
the fourth step: cooling the heated hair to room temperature, then using a second permanent-wave agent, namely a setting agent to be coated on the hair, and staying for about 10 minutes;
the setting agent contains strong oxidant, such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate and the like, and the oxidation effect of the strong oxidant closes the broken disulfide bond to solidify the softened keratin so as to permanently set the deformed hair, thus finishing all the operations.
The fourth step may sometimes be omitted, but the permanent setting of the hair is achieved by closing the disulfide bonds by prolonged exposure to air, using the oxidative action of oxygen in the air.
The above-mentioned conventional blanching techniques have the disadvantages that,
when the first agent for hair perming is adopted to break the disulfide bonds of the hair, the hair is soft, meanwhile, the scales of the hair cuticles on the surface layer of the hair are damaged, the internal structure of the hair is in an unprotected state, so that water and nutrient contents in the hair are lost, keratin of the hair is denatured, and the hair is further induced to become yellow, crisp, glossy and elastic;
the first agent for permanent wave generally contains a large amount of sulfur-containing compounds, almost all practically available sulfur-containing compounds generate unpleasant and pungent odor, easily cause irritation reactions such as lacrimation, eye dryness and the like to a hairdresser who often contacts the first agent for permanent wave, even cause skin allergy, and can also cause phenomena of nail looseness and fingertip deformation if the first agent for permanent wave is often directly contacted by hands, thereby causing adverse effects on the health of the hairdresser;
the pH value of the first agent for permanent wave needs to be 8-10, but common sulfur-containing compounds such as ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine are acidic, and alkaline substances such as ammonia water and ethanolamine need to be added to improve the pH value, and the alkaline substances can damage hair.
In order to improve the damage of perm to hair, some heat perm methods use a care product in the stage from the first dose of perm to the heating stage, and play a care role on the hair: this is because the hair scale layer is in the maximum open state, and the hair can be supplemented with moisture and nutrition more effectively by using the care product, so that the damage of the first permanent wave agent to the hair/scalp during subsequent heating is reduced; however, these care products do not improve the effect of permanent waving.
In addition, most of the components of these products are volatilized at the high temperature of the second step, so that before entering the heating stage, these products need to be wiped dry to leave the hair in a semi-dry and semi-moist state, and then heated to prevent the liquid from boiling and scalding the scalp, and at the same time, the water vapor can break through the scales of the hair cuticles and damage the hair.
Because the prior hairdressing hot wave technology must use sulfur-containing compounds to break disulfide bonds, and in order to obtain good hair-waving effect, the first dosage for waving wave used generally contains a large amount of sulfur-containing compounds, so how to reduce the usage amount of sulfur-containing compounds on the basis of ensuring the hair-waving effect is always the pain point and difficulty of the hair-waving product.
Disclosure of Invention
The first object of the present invention is to provide a permanent wave aid which can improve the permanent wave effect or reduce hair damage, and which can reduce the damage to the hair by increasing the effect of ensuring the permanent wave or by reducing the amount of sulfur-containing compounds used while ensuring the effect of the permanent wave.
The second object of the present invention is to provide a method for hairdressing and permanent waving using the above-mentioned permanent waving aid, which can improve the permanent waving effect of the permanent waving by applying the permanent waving aid to hair in the third step and then performing the heating permanent waving, or reduce the amount of sulfur-containing compound used for the first permanent waving on the basis of securing the permanent waving effect, thereby reducing the damage to the hair.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a hair waving auxiliary agent capable of improving hair waving effect or reducing hair damage contains water, and is characterized by further comprising at least one of a moisturizing agent and a moisturizing composition or a combination of the moisturizing agent and the moisturizing composition;
wherein:
the humectant is one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol and panthenol;
the moisturizing composition is a combination of an oily component and a surfactant, wherein the oily component is one or two or more of vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil, chemical synthetic oil and silicone oil; the surfactant is one or two or more of an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant;
the humectant, the oily component and the surfactant have an evaporation pressure of less than 760mmHg at high temperature for heating and perming, and do not decompose;
when the perming aid comprises the moisturizing composition, the oil-water separation phenomenon does not occur at the high temperature of heating perming.
The present inventors have found that, in the course of the study of the prior art of permanent wave, the sulfur-containing compound in the first permanent wave dose needs to be in a state where the hair is wet to break the disulfide bonds of the hair, and that a small amount of the sulfur-containing compound remains in the hair after the second permanent wave step of permanent wave is performed to wash out the first permanent wave dose and dry the hair. However, in the prior art, in the third step of permanent waving, heating and waving, a small amount of water in the hair is rapidly evaporated to dry the hair, so that the chemical reaction (softening reaction) of the sulfur-containing compounds to break the disulfide bonds cannot be continued.
The following formula is a chemical reaction equation for sulfur-containing compounds to break the disulfide bonds of hair:
2HSCH2COO-(aq)+—S—S—(Hair)→(SCH2COO-)2(aq)+2HS-(Hair)
It can be seen from the reaction equation that the sulfur-containing compound must be in an ionic state in the liquid water when the reaction occurs, i.e., the hair is in a wet state, is a necessary condition for the chemical reaction to proceed.
Meanwhile, in the third step of heating and perming in the prior art, oxygen in the air can contact and rapidly enter the inside of the hair to neutralize the residual sulfur-containing compounds (redox reaction), so that the operation in the third step of perming is basically free from the chemical reaction of the sulfur-containing compounds to break the disulfide bonds of the hair, and only the hair is simply physically deformed under the condition of high temperature, and the perming effect depends on the operation of softening the hair in the first step, and the more sufficient the softening of the hair in the first step, the better the perming effect.
As a result of the continuous research by the present inventors, it has been found that the auxiliary for permanent wave can be applied to the hair before the third step of heating and permanent wave, so that the residual sulfur compounds in the hair can be used to break the disulfide bonds of the hair and the chemical activity can be improved, and thus, the residual sulfur compounds in the third step of permanent wave can be used to further break the disulfide bonds in the heating and permanent wave stage, so as to soften the hair keratin sufficiently, thereby improving the permanent effect of the hot wave.
The perming aid contains a large amount of humectant and/or moisturizing composition which is high temperature resistant and is not easy to volatilize, so the perming aid can exist stably at high temperature of heating perming, and is not volatilized and not decomposed. When the hair-waving adjuvant is coated on the surface of hair before heating and waving, and then heating and waving are carried out, it can keep the hair from drying due to high temperature, thereby achieving the following two purposes:
the hair-waving auxiliary agent can effectively prevent moisture in hair from evaporating and drying at high temperature, so that residual trace sulfur-containing compounds in the hair can further break disulfide bonds of the hair and soften keratin under the condition of moisture through high-temperature heating, thereby enabling the hair to be softened more fully;
meanwhile, the moisturizer or oily component which is not volatile at high temperature can effectively isolate the direct contact of air and hair, prevent oxygen in the air from entering the interior of the hair and neutralize residual sulfur-containing compounds, thereby enabling the softening reaction to be smoothly carried out and enhancing the hair perming effect.
The invention has no limit on the using amount of the perming auxiliary agent, and can achieve the purpose of improving the perming effect only by covering all the hair with the perming auxiliary agent. In other words, the use of the perming aid of the present invention provides a practicable basis for perming the first agent, the softening agent, to reduce sulfur-containing compounds while maintaining the original perming effect, thereby reducing the hair damage caused by perming.
The high temperature is in the temperature range of heating and perming, namely 60-230 ℃.
The types of permanent wave aids may be: aqueous, emulsion, gel, or paste.
When the hair waving auxiliary comprises the humectant and does not contain the moisturizing composition, the adding amount of the humectant is 1-60 wt%, preferably 20-60 wt%, and more preferably 30-60 wt%;
when the hair waving aid comprises the moisturizing composition and does not contain a humectant, the addition amount of the moisturizing composition is 1-60 wt%, preferably 20-60 wt%, and more preferably 30-60 wt%;
when the hair waving auxiliary agent is a combination of a humectant and a moisturizing composition, the humectant and the moisturizing composition can be in any proportion, and the total adding amount of the humectant and the moisturizing composition is 1-60 wt%, preferably 20-60 wt%, and more preferably 30-60 wt%.
In the moisturizing composition, the proportion of the oily component and the surfactant is not limited, so that the moisturizing composition does not have the phenomenon of oil-water separation at high temperature.
The pH value of the perming aid is 3-11, and the pH value is preferably 6-10.
In a further aspect of the present invention, the hair waving auxiliary agent further includes a thickener in an amount of 0.01 to 50 wt%, preferably 1 to 10 wt%.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention:
the vegetable oil is at least one of palm oil and olive oil, and the addition amount is 1-60 wt%, preferably 10-50 wt%;
the animal oil is at least one of cod liver oil and sperm oil, and the addition amount is 1-60 wt%, preferably 10-50 wt%;
the mineral oil is paraffin mineral oil, specifically paraffin oil, and the addition amount is 1-60 wt%, preferably 10-50 wt%;
the chemical synthetic oil is at least one of caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate and oleic acid, and the addition amount is 1-60 wt%, preferably 10-50 wt%;
the silicone oil is at least one of methyl silicone oil, ethyl silicone oil and phenyl silicone oil, and the adding amount is 1-60 wt%, preferably 10-50 wt%;
when the oil is two or more than two, the proportion is any proportion.
The anionic surfactant is at least one of stearic acid and sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, and the addition amount is 1-50 wt%, preferably 5-30 wt%;
the cationic surfactant is a quaternary ammonium compound, specifically can be one or more of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-37 and polyquaternium-7, and is added in an amount of 1-50 wt%, preferably 1-10 wt%;
the zwitterionic surfactant can be at least one of amino acid type surfactant, betaine type surfactant and lecithin, and the addition amount is 1-50 wt%, preferably 5-30 wt%;
preferably, the amino acid type surfactant is at least one of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, TEA salt of cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and potassium cocoyl glycinate; the betaine type surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine and alkyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine;
the nonionic surfactant is at least one of coco glucoside, alkyl glucoside, fatty glyceride, sorbitan fatty acid and polysorbate, and the addition amount is 1-50 wt%, preferably 5-30 wt%;
when the surfactant is two or more, the proportion is any proportion.
The thickening agent is one or more of carbomer, polyethylene glycol, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hyaluronic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauric acid, stearic acid, bentonite and fumed silica.
As a further aspect of the present invention, the hair waving auxiliary agent further comprises one or more of a perfume, an alkaline component, an acidic component, and a reducing agent component.
The alkaline component is selected from tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and ethanolamine, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%, preferably 0-3 wt%.
The acidic component is lactic acid, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%, preferably 0-6 wt%.
The reducing agent is selected from sodium sulfite, ascorbic acid and sulfur-containing compounds, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%, preferably 0.5-1 wt%.
When the hair waving auxiliary comprises the moisturizing agent and does not contain the moisturizing composition, the hair waving auxiliary of the present invention is prepared by: sequentially adding the components into water according to a ratio, stirring for 20-40 minutes, and then adjusting the pH value; or the following steps: the preparation method comprises the steps of firstly, sequentially adding the components into water according to a ratio, heating to 50-70 ℃, stirring for 20-40 minutes, cooling to room temperature, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and then adjusting the pH value.
When the permanent wave aid includes a moisturizing composition, the permanent wave aid of the present invention is prepared by: the method comprises the steps of firstly, sequentially adding the components into water according to a ratio, heating to 50-70 ℃, stirring for 20-40 minutes, cooling to room temperature, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and then adjusting the pH value.
The second object of the present invention can be achieved by the following measures:
a hairdressing and hot-waving method applying the perming auxiliary agent capable of improving perming effect or reducing hair damage comprises the following steps:
firstly, applying a first permanent agent on hair to soften the hair;
secondly, washing the first agent for perming hair, and wiping the hair dry;
thirdly, the hair curling aid is smeared on the hair, the operation is carried out according to the requirements of curling or straightening the hair, and then the hair is directly heated to achieve the hair curling or straightening effect;
fourthly, shaping the hair: cooling the heated hair to room temperature, then using a second permanent-wave agent, namely a setting agent to be coated on the hair, and staying for about 10 minutes; or directly using oxygen in the air to slowly shape the hair.
The first step, the second step and the fourth step of the method of the invention are consistent with the prior hairdressing hot wave technology, only a perming auxiliary agent is added in the third step, namely, the first agent is washed clean, then the hair is wiped dry, the perming auxiliary agent is coated on the hair, the remaining time is not needed, the hair is heated and perming operation is immediately carried out, and the hair is shaped after the hair curling or straightening effect is achieved.
In the third step, the hair-waving auxiliary agent is directly coated on the hair and is directly heated together with the hair, the heating temperature is 60-230 ℃, the heating time is 0.5-120 min, and the heating tool can be: a blancher, a hair straightener, a hair curling wand, and the like.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the main components of the perming auxiliary agent are not volatilized and decomposed for a long time at high temperature, so that the perming auxiliary agent can not dry at the high temperature of perming, can keep the hair moist in the high-temperature perming process by being coated on the hair, helps the hair to isolate air, prevents the air from reacting with sulfur-containing compounds, and can still soften the hair in the heating perming stage; and the effect of perming (curling and straightening) is effectively improved by matching with high-temperature heating. That is, when the first permanent wave agent is used in the same manner, the sulfur-containing compound in the first permanent wave agent can be more effectively utilized by the hair perming and perming method of the present invention, and the perming or straightening effects of the hair are superior to those of the prior perming methods.
2. In other words, the use amount of the sulfur-containing compound in the first permanent wave agent can be reduced by 40% or more by using the hair-dressing and perming method of the present invention while ensuring the same perming effect (curling and straightening), thereby reducing the generation of unpleasant irritating gas and damage to hair due to the sulfur-containing compound. Therefore, the method of the invention can improve the working environment in the blanching process, reduce the stimulation to the operator and the generated pungent smell caused by sulfur-containing compounds, thereby reducing the adverse effect on the health of the operator; the hair of a user can be nursed in the blanching process, and the damage of blanching to the hair is reduced.
3. The hair perming and blanching method can ensure the perming effect of the perming first agent under the condition of reducing the usage amount of the sulfur-containing compound, so the content of alkaline substances required to be added in the perming first agent can be correspondingly reduced, and the damage of perming to hair can be further reduced.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples; the raw material components in the following specific examples are calculated by mass percentage.
Calculating the hair curl ratio:
wherein the hair curl ratio is L, and the initial length of the test spring is L022cm, and the length of the hair is measured after the hair-waving treatmenttThen, there are:
L=(L0-Lt)/L0
for the hair curling test, the larger the hair curling ratio is, and the better the hair curling effect is; for the straightening test, the smaller the hair curl ratio is, the better the hair straightening effect is.
Hair quality test (hair elastic modulus test):
experimental equipment: instron 3300 electronic universal tester
The test method comprises the following steps: from each test sample, 25 pieces of hair were randomly taken, and the elastic modulus at a tensile length of 105% was measured, and the average value was counted. A higher value of the modulus of elasticity indicates a healthier hair quality.
Example Hair curling Effect test
Experimental material a: the virgin hair straightening spring is 22cm in length, 1cm in width and 2.5 grams in weight.
Comparative example 1: traditional hot-ironing and hot-rolling experiment strong-effect plate
The first agent for permanent wave is an aqueous solution containing 8% of ammonium thioglycolate, 6% of cysteine, 4% of ethanolamine, 4% of urea, 2% of tetrasodium EDTA and 78% of water, and the pH value is 9.0.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: then the hair is rolled on a rolling bar, and the rolling bar is heated by a digital hot ironing machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes.
The fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Comparative example 2: weak effect plate for traditional hot ironing and rolling experiment
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: then the hair is rolled on a rolling bar, and the rolling bar is heated by a digital hot ironing machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes.
The fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Example one test 1: traditional heat-perm weak-effect plate and perm auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the perm auxiliary agent is 3.6
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair waving auxiliary agent is as follows: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 2.5% of lactic acid and 45% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 3.6.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Example one test 2: traditional weak heat-perm plate and perm assistant, wherein the pH value of the perm assistant is 4.8
The first agent for permanent wave is aqueous solution containing 5% of ammonium thioglycolate, 3% of cysteine, 2% of ethanolamine, 4% of urea, 2% of tetrasodium EDTA and 84% of water, and the pH value is 8.0.
The formula of the hair waving auxiliary agent is as follows: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 1.5% of lactic acid and 46% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 4.8.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent wave agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Example one test 3: traditional heat-perm weak-effect plate and perm auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the perm auxiliary agent is 6.1
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer and 47.5% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 6.1.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Example one test 4: traditional heat-perm weak-effect plate and perm auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the perm auxiliary agent is 7.2
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 1.5% of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and 46% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 7.2.
The first step is as follows: the first permanent wave agent was applied to the test material a, left to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes,
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
Example one test 5: traditional heat-perm weak-effect plate and perm auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the perm auxiliary agent is 8.2
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 7.5% of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and 40% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 8.2.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes.
The fourth step: cooling the heated hair to room temperature, using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second perming agent, applying the second perming agent on the hair, staying for about 10 minutes, removing a curling rod, washing, naturally drying, and measuring the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair.
Example one test 6: traditional heat-perm weak-effect plate and perm auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the perm auxiliary agent is 10.1
The first agent for permanent wave is a water solution containing 8% of ammonium thioglycolate, 2% of ethanolamine, 4% of urea, 2% of EDTA tetrasodium and 84% of water, and the pH value is 8.0;
the first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 3.5% of ethanolamine and 44% of water. The hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 10.1.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-waving auxiliary agent is smeared on hair, the hair is immediately curled on a curling bar without staying for waiting time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-waving machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, removed from the rod, rinsed clean, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, the results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Analysis of the results in Table 1 reveals that the curling degree of hair is significantly increased, i.e., the curling effect is better, after the hair-waving auxiliary of the present invention is introduced, and the higher the pH of the hair-waving auxiliary, the more favorable the residual sulfur-containing compound is for the reaction of cleaving the disulfide bond, the more significant the curling degree is increased. This also means that, in order to achieve the same curl, the content of the sulfur-containing compound and the alkaline substance required after the introduction of the permanent wave aid can be greatly reduced, thereby also reducing the unpleasant odor of the permanent wave first agent. Meanwhile, after the method of the invention is adopted for perming, the elasticity modulus of the hair is obviously better than that of the traditional perming (comparative examples 1 and 2), and the lower the pH value of the perming auxiliary is, the less the damage to the hair quality is, so the larger the elasticity modulus is, the healthier the hair quality is.
As can be seen from table 1, when 42.86% of the sulfur-containing compound and 50% of the alkaline substance (weak effective plate) are used less in the first permanent wave agent, the volume ratio of the hair can be increased on the basis of the weak effective plate by using the method of the present invention, wherein tests 4 to 6 achieve the same or better permanent wave effect as the strong effective plate.
And (3) knotting: the pH value of the perming auxiliary agent is 6-10, the comprehensive effect is optimal, the perming effect is obviously improved, and meanwhile, the damage of perming on hair can be reduced; or the hair damage caused by perm is obviously reduced, and simultaneously, the good perm effect is still achieved.
Example two Hair straightening Effect test
Experimental material B: the natural Indian virgin hymen hair curling spring is 30cm long and 1,5 g in weight.
Comparative example 3: powerful plate for traditional ion ironing and straightening experiment
The first agent for permanent wave is an aqueous solution containing 8% of ammonium thioglycolate, 6% of cysteine, 4% of ethanolamine, 4% of urea, 2% of tetrasodium EDTA and 78% of water, and the pH value is 9.0.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: repeatedly straightening the hair for five times by using a straight plate clamp, wherein the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 4: weak effective plate for traditional ionic ironing and straightening experiment
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: repeatedly straightening the hair for five times by using a straight plate clamp, wherein the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 7: traditional ion weak effective perm and perm assistant, wherein the pH value of the perm assistant is 3.6
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 2.5% of lactic acid and 45% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 3.6.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is smeared on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 8: traditional ionic perm plate and perm assistant, wherein the pH value of the perm assistant is 4.8
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 1.5% of lactic acid and 46% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 4.8.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is smeared on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide was used as a second permanent wave agent, which was applied to the hair, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 9: traditional ionic weak-effect permanent wave plate and permanent wave auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the permanent wave auxiliary agent is 6.1
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer and 47.5% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 6.1.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is coated on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 10: traditional ionic weak-effect permanent wave plate and permanent wave auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the permanent wave auxiliary agent is 7.2
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 1.5% of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and 46% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 7.2.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is smeared on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide was used as a second permanent wave agent, which was applied to the hair, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 11: traditional ion weak effective perm and perm assistant, wherein the pH value of the perm assistant is 8.2
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 7.5% of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and 40% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 8.2.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is smeared on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
Example two test 12: traditional ionic weak-effect permanent wave plate and permanent wave auxiliary agent, wherein the pH value of the permanent wave auxiliary agent is 10.1
The first agent for permanent wave is water solution containing 5% ammonium thioglycolate, 3% cysteine, 2% ethanolamine, 4% urea, 2% tetrasodium EDTA and 84% water, and has pH of 8.0.
The formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 1.5% of carbomer, 3.5% of ethanolamine and 44% of water; the hair waving auxiliary agent is paste, and the pH value is 10.1.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: the hair-perming auxiliary agent is coated on the hair, the hair is repeatedly straightened for five times by a straight plate clamp without staying for waiting time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃;
the fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then applied to the hair using an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide as a second permanent wave agent, left for approximately 10 minutes, rinsed, and air dried, and then the curl ratio and the elastic modulus of the hair were measured, and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Analysis of the results in Table 1 reveals that the hair straightening effect is significantly improved after the hair-waving auxiliary of the present invention is introduced, and that the higher the pH of the hair-waving auxiliary, the more favorable the residual sulfur-containing compound is for the reaction of cleaving the disulfide bond, and the better the straightening effect. This also means that the content of the sulfur-containing compound and the alkaline substance required for achieving the same straightening effect can be greatly reduced after the permanent wave auxiliary is introduced, thereby also reducing the unpleasant odor of the first agent for ion permanent wave. After the ion perm is carried out by adopting the method, the elasticity modulus of the hair is obviously better than that of the traditional ion perm, and the lower the pH value of the adopted perm auxiliary agent is, the higher the elasticity modulus is, and the healthier the hair is.
As can be seen from table 2, when 42.86% of the sulfur-containing compound and 50% of the alkaline substance weak plates were used for the first permanent wave, the volume ratio of the hair could be reduced on the basis of the weak plates, i.e., the straightening effect was improved, using the method of the present invention, wherein test 12 more achieves the same straightening effect as the strong plates.
And (3) knotting: in order to maximize the straightening effect of the hair-perming auxiliary agent and ensure less damage to hair, the pH value of the hair-perming auxiliary agent is more suitable at 6-10.
Example three:
the formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 0.5% of carbomer and 48.5% of water. The hair waving auxiliary agent is in the form of emulsion and has a pH value of 6.1.
The manufacturing method comprises the following steps: the preparation method comprises the steps of firstly, slowly adding paraffin oil, isopropyl myristate, glycerol, sodium dodecyl sulfate and carbomer into water according to a ratio in sequence, stirring at a speed of 150rpm for 30 minutes, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and adjusting the pH value to 6.1 by using ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The perming auxiliary agent is adopted to perform perming and straightening tests respectively, and the specific method comprises the following steps:
the first agent for permanent wave is an aqueous solution containing 8% of ammonium thioglycolate, 2% of ethanolamine, 4% of urea, 2% of tetrasodium EDTA and 84% of water, and the pH value is 8.0.
The first step is as follows: applying the first permanent agent on the experimental material A or B, and waiting for 20 minutes at room temperature;
the second step is that: firstly, washing the first agent for perming, and wiping hair dry;
the third step: applying a perming aid to the hair;
when the hair curler is used for curling test, the hair is curled on the curling bar immediately without waiting for time, and the curling bar is heated by a digital hot-pressing machine, wherein the heating temperature is 120 ℃, and the heating time is 30 minutes;
when the hair is straightened, the hair is straightened for five times by the straight plate clamp without waiting for time, and the temperature of the straight plate clamp is 180 ℃.
The fourth step: the heated hair was cooled to room temperature, then an aqueous solution containing 2% hydrogen peroxide was used as a second permanent wave agent, which was applied to the hair, left for approximately 10 minutes, (the curler was removed), rinsed, and air dried naturally, and then the curl ratio was measured, and the results are shown in table 3.
Example four:
the formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 50% of glycerin, 2.5% of carbomer and 47.5% of water. The hair-waving auxiliary agent is in the form of gel and has a pH value of 5.1.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: according to the proportion, glycerol and carbomer are sequentially and slowly added into water, the mixture is heated to 60 ℃, the stirring speed is 150rpm, the mixture is stirred for 30 minutes, then the mixture is cooled to the room temperature, evaporated water is slowly supplemented, and the pH value is adjusted to 5.1 by using ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The test of curling and straightening are respectively carried out by adopting the curling aid, the specific method is the same as that of the embodiment, and the result is shown in the table 3.
Example five:
the formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 4.5% of cetostearyl alcohol and 54.5% of water. The hair waving adjuvant is in the form of paste, and has pH of 3.7.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: the preparation method comprises the steps of firstly, slowly adding paraffin oil, isopropyl myristate, sodium dodecyl sulfate and cetostearyl alcohol into water according to a ratio in sequence, heating to 60 ℃, stirring at a speed of 150rpm for 30 minutes, cooling to room temperature, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and adjusting the pH to 3.7 by using ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The test of curling and straightening are respectively carried out by adopting the curling aid, the specific method is the same as that of the embodiment, and the result is shown in the table 3.
Example six:
the formula of the perming auxiliary agent comprises: 18% of paraffin oil, 18% of isopropyl myristate, 10% of glycerol, 5% of sodium dodecyl sulfate, 4% of behenyl alcohol, 4.5% of bentonite and 40.5% of water. The hair waving adjuvant is in the form of paste, and has pH of 10.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: adding paraffin oil, isopropyl myristate, glycerol, sodium dodecyl sulfate, behenyl alcohol and bentonite slowly into water according to a certain proportion, heating to 60 ℃, stirring at a speed of 150rpm for 30 minutes, cooling to room temperature, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and adjusting pH to 10 with ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The test of curling and straightening are respectively carried out by adopting the curling aid, the specific method is the same as that of the embodiment, and the result is shown in the table 3.
Example seven:
the formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 15% of glycerin, 15% of propylene glycol, 15% of butanediol, 15% of panthenol and 40% of water. The hair waving auxiliary agent is in the form of water body liquid, and has a pH value of 10.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, panthenol and water in sequence according to the proportion, stirring at the speed of 150rpm for 15 minutes, and adjusting the pH value to 10 by using ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The test of curling and straightening are respectively carried out by adopting the curling aid, the specific method is the same as that of the embodiment, and the result is shown in the table 3.
Example eight:
the formula of the hair-waving auxiliary agent comprises: 15% of glycerin, 15% of propylene glycol, 14% of butanediol, 14% of panthenol, 2% of carbomer and 40% of water. The hair waving adjuvant is in the form of gel, and has pH of 4.0.
The preparation method comprises the following steps: adding glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, panthenol and carbomer into water in sequence according to a certain proportion, heating to 60 ℃, stirring at a speed of 150rpm for 30 minutes, cooling to room temperature, slowly supplementing evaporated water, and adjusting pH to 4 with ethanolamine and lactic acid.
The test of curling and straightening are respectively carried out by adopting the curling aid, the specific method is the same as that of the embodiment, and the result is shown in the table 3.
TABLE 3
As can be seen from the results in table 3, the method of the third to eighth embodiments of the present invention can improve the ironing effect and straightening effect of the conventional ironing. Thus, with the same effect, it is possible to use a first permanent wave agent with a lower content of sulphur compounds and alkaline substances, which means that the unpleasant smell and damage to the hair during the hot-waving process can be considerably reduced.
The present invention also provides, as an example, the embodiment of table 4.
TABLE 4
After the raw materials of the embodiment are uniformly mixed, lactic acid or ethanolamine is adopted to adjust the pH value to be 6-10, and the hair-waving auxiliary agent is prepared.
It should be noted that the above examples are only for further illustration of the present invention and are not intended to be limiting, and those skilled in the art should be considered as included within the scope of the present invention to select different cationic surfactants or add other corresponding materials within the meaning and scope equivalent to the technical solution of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A hair waving auxiliary agent capable of improving hair waving effect or reducing hair damage contains water, and is characterized by further comprising at least one of a moisturizing agent and a moisturizing composition or a combination of the moisturizing agent and the moisturizing composition; wherein:
the humectant is one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol and panthenol;
the moisturizing composition is a combination of an oily component and a surfactant, wherein the oily component is one or two or more of vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil, chemical synthetic oil and silicone oil; the surfactant is one or two or more of an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant;
the humectant, the oily component and the surfactant have an evaporation pressure of less than 760mmHg at high temperature for heating and perming, and do not decompose;
when the perming aid comprises the moisturizing composition, the oil-water separation phenomenon does not occur at the high temperature of heating perming.
2. A hair waving aid for improving a hair waving effect or reducing hair damage according to claim 1, wherein when the hair waving aid includes a moisturizing agent without containing a moisturizing composition, the moisturizing agent is added in an amount of 1 to 60 wt%; when the hair waving auxiliary agent comprises the moisturizing composition and does not contain a humectant, the addition amount of the moisturizing composition is 1-60 wt%; when the hair waving auxiliary agent is a combination of a humectant and a moisturizing composition, the total adding amount of the humectant and the moisturizing composition is 1-60 wt%.
3. A hair waving aid for improving a hair waving effect or reducing hair damage according to claim 2, wherein when the hair waving aid includes a moisturizing agent without containing a moisturizing composition, the moisturizing agent is added in an amount of 20 to 60 wt%; when the hair waving auxiliary agent comprises the moisturizing composition and does not contain a humectant, the addition amount of the moisturizing composition is 20-60 wt%; when the hair waving auxiliary agent is a combination of a humectant and a moisturizing composition, the total adding amount of the humectant and the moisturizing composition is 20-60 wt%.
4. A hair waving aid according to claim 3, wherein the pH of the hair waving aid is 6 to 10.
5. The auxiliary for permanent wave capable of improving permanent wave effect or reducing hair damage as claimed in claim 4, wherein the auxiliary for permanent wave further comprises a thickener in an amount of 0.01 to 50 wt%; the thickening agent is one or more of carbomer, polyethylene glycol, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hyaluronic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauric acid, stearic acid, bentonite and fumed silica.
6. A hair waving aid according to claim 5 for improving a waving effect or reducing hair damage, characterized in that the hair waving aid further comprises one or more ingredients selected from a group consisting of a perfume, an alkaline component, an acidic component, and a reducing agent; the alkaline component is selected from trihydroxymethyl aminomethane and ethanolamine, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%; the acidic component is lactic acid, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%; the reducing agent is selected from sodium sulfite, ascorbic acid and sulfur-containing compounds, and the addition amount is 0-20 wt%.
7. A permanent wave aid for improving the effect of permanent waves or reducing hair damage according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the vegetable oil is at least one of palm oil and olive oil; the animal oil is at least one of cod liver oil and sperm oil; the mineral oil is alkane mineral oil; the chemical synthetic oil is at least one of caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate and oleic acid; the silicone oil is at least one of methyl silicone oil, ethyl silicone oil and phenyl silicone oil; when the oil is two or more than two, the proportion is any proportion.
8. A hair permanent wave auxiliary agent for improving a hair permanent effect or reducing hair damage according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the anionic surfactant is at least one of stearic acid and sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate; the cationic surfactant is quaternary ammonium compound, and comprises one or more of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-37 and polyquaternium-7; the zwitterionic surfactant is at least one of amino acid type surfactant, betaine type surfactant and lecithin; the amino acid type surfactant is at least one of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, TEA (TEA salt of cocoyl glutamate), potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and potassium cocoyl glycinate; the betaine type surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine and alkyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine; the nonionic surfactant is at least one of coco glucoside, alkyl glucoside, fatty glyceride, sorbitan fatty acid and polysorbate; when the surfactant is two or more, the proportion is any proportion.
9. A hair waving and blanching method using the perming aid for improving perming effect or reducing hair damage according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by comprising the steps of:
firstly, applying a first permanent agent on hair to soften the hair;
step two, washing the first agent for perming hair, and wiping the hair;
thirdly, the hair curling aid is smeared on the hair, the operation is carried out according to the requirements of curling or straightening the hair, and then the hair is directly heated to achieve the hair curling or straightening effect;
fourthly, shaping the hair: cooling the heated hair to room temperature, then using a second permanent-wave agent, namely a setting agent to be coated on the hair, and staying for about 10 minutes; or directly using oxygen in the air to slowly shape the hair.
10. The hair perming method using perming aids for improving perming effects or reducing hair damages as set forth in claim 9, wherein the perming aids are directly applied to the hair and directly heated together with the hair at a heating temperature of 60 to 230 ℃ for 0.5 to 120min in the third step.
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