JPH09301837A - Treating composition for hair - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a composition for perming of hair capable of significantly reducing the damage to the hair and a perming smell by including a thiolactate anion and monoethanolamine at a specific ratio and further combining a specified polymeric substance therewith. SOLUTION: This composition for treating hair is obtained by regulating the amounts of a thiolactate anion as a reducing agent and monoethanolamine as an alkaline agent to <0.3 or >1.0 ratio expressed in terms of molar concentration of the thiolactate anion to the monoethanolamine for forming a counterion to the anion and in an excessive amount and further blending at least one polymeric substance selected from the group of an amino-modified silicone, a glycol-modified silicone, a microemulsion of a silicone oil, a cationic polymer and an amphoteric polymer in the system. The resultant composition is prepared by regulating the amount of the thiolactate anion to 1.0-20wt.%, that of the polymeric substance to 0.01-10wt.% and pH to 7.5-10.0. The composition can be used as the first agent for perming the hair or a curly hair straightening agent for the hair.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a composition for permanent wave of hair, and more specifically to a composition having excellent properties as a first agent for permanent wave.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A permanent wave treatment method involving a step of reducing a disulfide bond in hair keratin to a thiol by a reducing agent, followed by re-disulphide of a thiol (mercapto group) by an oxidizing agent and rearrangement of a hair fiber is various. There is also a proposal for a reducing agent composition (first agent), which is a technology that has been almost completed commercially.

By the way, in order to obtain a sufficient wave effect, it is necessary to use a strong reducing agent. On the other hand, the use of such a strong reducing agent often results in hair damage that cannot be ignored. In addition, since it exhibits an excellent reducing action, thioglycolate or its ester, which has been mainly used for permanent wave treatment, is
Generation of a bad odor (so-called strong perm odor) is also a problem to be improved. In order to prevent such an offensive odor, other reducing agents such as cysteine, cysteamine, for the purpose of reducing the amount of thioglycolate or its ester used,
It has also been proposed to substitute some or all of thioglycollate or its esters with thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof.

However, in order to obtain a sufficient wave effect by using an alternative reducing agent such as thiolactic acid, a high pH is usually used.
Treatment under conditions is required, and the above-mentioned hair damage cannot be ignored.

Therefore, for example, according to Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 61-69717, first, for the purpose of reducing malodor, use of thioglycolic acid as a reducing agent is avoided, and thiolactic acid is used.
It has been proposed to use a combination of a hydrolysis product derived from a natural protein or a derivative thereof, which has a purpose of reducing damage to the scalp caused in the step of treating with a reducing agent. It is also suggested that this composition can achieve a certain effect by an evaluation method based on the cysteic acid content in treated hair.

[0006] Although the use of such a composition has certain effects as described in the above publication, its wave effect in actual use is not always excellent in durability.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Therefore, the object of the present invention is to reduce the damage to the hair and the perm odor, and to have a permanent effect excellent in the wave effect in actual use.
It is intended to provide a reducing agent composition for wave.

[0008]

The present inventors have proposed a combination composition of thiolactic acid and a certain alkaline agent (eg, ammonia, monoethanolamine, isopropanolamine), which is an alkaline agent cation for thiolactate anion. It was found that a composition in which the molar concentration ratio of is adjusted to a specific range can solve the above-mentioned problems without using proteolysis or the like as described in JP-A-61-69717, and proposed above. (See European Patent Application No. 95308241.9).

Furthermore, it has been found here that the above problems can be solved by using a combination of specific polymer substances other than the above-mentioned protein hydrolysis even if they are out of the above specified range. It has also been found that such a composition can be advantageously used for straightening curly hair.

Therefore, according to the present invention, there is provided a hair treating composition containing a reducing agent and an alkaline agent,
(A) the reducing agent and the alkaline agent are less than 0.3 or greater than 1.0 in molar ratio of thiolactate anion to counterion formation of the anion and excess monoethanolasine, and (B) A composition comprising at least one polymeric substance selected from the group consisting of amino-modified silicone, glycol-modified silicone, microemulsion of silicone oil, cationic polymer and amphoteric polymer. It

The composition can be used advantageously for treating hair, in particular for permanent waves and straightening hair. More specifically, as a first agent (reducing and alkaline agent) in cold two-bath type, warm two-bath type, heat-prepared two-bath permanent wave treatment for hair, and cold and warming of hair. It can be advantageously used in a hair straightening treatment.

[0012]

SPECIFIC EMBODIMENTS The composition of the present invention contains thiolactate anion and monoethanolamine in the above-specified ratios, and contains one kind of the above-mentioned specified polymer substance or a combination of two or more kinds thereof. Therefore, the absolute contents thereof may be any as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved. However, usually, the thiolactate anion is 1.0% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition.
20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, and 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, of a polymeric substance.

The converted value of thiolactate anion means the sum of thiolactate, thiolactate monoethanolamine salt, and optionally thiolactate anion derived from thiolactate ammonia and thiolactate alkali metal salt. These components are preferably composed of thiolactic acid, ammonia thiolactic acid, monoethanolamine thiolactic acid.

The composition of the present invention contains monoethanolamine in a molar ratio of less than 0.3 or more than 1.0 to the above thiolactate anion, but if necessary, ammonia and / or alkali metal hydroxide is used. It is preferred that the pH be adjusted to 7.5 to 10.0, preferably 8.0 to 9.6 by means of an acid, an alkali metal carbonate or another alkaline buffer. By adjusting to such a pH,
In combination with the use effect of thiolactic acid and monoethanolamine and the above-mentioned polymer substances, the effect of the present invention, that is, the wave effect over a long period of time without damage to hair (assuming subsequent treatment with an oxidizing agent) and shrinkage A hair straightening effect is obtained.

Specific examples of the polymeric substances that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, the following.

A typical amino-modified silicone has the general formula

[0017]

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(Wherein x = 50 to 150, y = 1 to 5), and as a commercial product, Torre Silicone SM87
02C (Tore Dow Corning), available as Dow Corning DC929 (Dow Corning), general formula

[0019]

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(Wherein x = 50 to 150, y = 1 to 5), which is a commercial product Dow Corning DCQ2-7224
(Dow Corning Co.) available silicones.

Typical glycol-modified silicones have the general formula

[0022]

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(Where x = 5-10, y = 4-6, z =
9 to 13), and silicones that can be entered as commercially available silicone SC1014M (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) can be mentioned.

A typical silicone oil microemulsion is represented by the general formula

[0025]

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(Wherein X represents a value showing a viscosity of 50 to 1000 cps), and the emulsified particle size is 10
A silicone emulsion of ~ 30 nm,
Commercially available Toray Silicone BY22-010 (Toray
Silicone emulsions available from Dow Corning).

Typical examples of the cationic polymer or amphoteric polymer include those represented by the general formula

[0028]

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A 40% aqueous solution of a poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) cationic polymer represented by the following formula. As a commercial product, Marcoat 100 (Calgon Corporation), a general formula

[0030]

[Chemical 6]

An amphoteric copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid (37.5-39%)
Aqueous solution), and as commercially available products, Marcoat 280 and −
295 (Calgon Corporation), general formula

[0032]

[Chemical 7]

A cationic copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide represented by the formula (8.6
% Aqueous solution), commercially available products such as Marcoat 550 (Calgon Corporation), and general formula

[0034]

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Hydroxyethyl cellulose represented by
Cationic polymers such as 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride ether, and commercially available products include Polymer JR-400 (Union Carbide Co.) and the like.

These polymeric substances may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The composition of the present invention contains, in addition to thiolactic acid or a salt thereof, ammonium thioglycolate salt, thioglycolic acid monoethanolamine salt, etc. as a reducing agent within a range that does not adversely affect the object of the present invention. Thioglycolate, cysteine or its salt, N-acetylcysteine, or their oxidized form (eg dithiolactic acid,
Dithioglycolic acid and salts thereof) can also be included. For example, dithiolactic acid or a salt thereof is 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.0% by weight of the composition.
It can be included in an amount of 05% by weight to 5.0% by weight.

Further, the composition of the present invention generally has a swelling agent, a penetrating agent, a protein hydrolyzate, a sequestering agent, and a wetting agent, which may be used as an auxiliary agent in the composition for permanent wave. , One or more ingredients selected from preservatives, conditioning agents and surfactants. Especially urea, alkyl urea,
Guanidine, guanidine hydrochloride, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, benzyl alcohol and lauryl betaine, etc., and in some cases, oil,
Ingredients used in other hair compositions such as plant extracts, fragrances and the like can also be included.

According to the composition of the present invention, by using in combination with the second agent for permanent wave, which comprises an oxidizing agent, the wave effect can be maintained for hair for a long period of time, and the hair is greatly damaged. It is also possible to substantially eliminate the bad smell generated during the treatment.
As the above-mentioned second agent, one commonly used in the relevant technical field can be used as it is. The composition itself of the present invention may be used alone for treating curly hair to straighten curly hair without damaging the hair.

[0040]

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to specific compositions, but the present invention is not intended to be limited to these examples.

Evaluation method The effects of the present invention can be confirmed by subjecting the composition to the following evaluation method. The following specific compositions are also carried out according to these evaluation methods.

(Perm odor) (i) Amount of ammonia volatilization A permeation agent 1 to be tested was placed in a constant glass container (600 ml).
Take 10 ml of the agent, close the cap, and let stand in a 37 ° C. water tank for 10 minutes. Gas 100 in the upper space using ammonia detector tube
Analyze ml. The larger this value (ppm), the stronger the ammonia odor.

(Ii) Amount of hydrogen sulfide generated and volatilized: 1 g of hair and 10 ml of one perm agent to be tested were put in the above container
After collecting and closing the cap, leave it in a 37 ° C. water tank for 20 minutes. Using a hydrogen sulfide detector tube, 100 ml of gas in the head space is analyzed. The larger this value (ppm), the stronger the hydrogen sulfide odor.

(Iii) Olfactory Evaluation Immediately after the measurement of hydrogen sulfide, the perm odor is evaluated by 5 persons.

The evaluation criteria are as follows.

++: Almost no perm odor is felt ++: Impression that is much milder than other general perms ＋: Mild −: Feels painful due to a severe sting (wave effect) Hair that has not been chemically treated A hair bundle (12 hairs, length 114 mm) is evenly wound around a glass rod (φ = 7 mm) using
Apply 80 μl of the agent evenly. After 2 minutes at room temperature 5
Five rods are placed in a 0 ml glass container, closed and treated in a 37 ° C. water bath for 20 minutes. After that, wash for 1 minute with water, and then use two permanent agents (sodium bromate 6%, pH 6.0.
-Sprinkle 5 ml prepared with phosphate buffer) on the whole rod, remove excess liquid, and treat in a water bath at 37 ° C for 20 minutes. Then, wash with water and carefully remove the hair from the rod to obtain a hair coil.

The hair coil thus prepared was measured for the hair coil diameter and the hair coil length while the hair coil was wet. The smaller the hair coil diameter (lower limit 7 mm), the better the wave, and the smaller the hair coil length (lower limit 5 mm, the upper limit 114 mm), the more elastic wave.

(Hair Damage) The hair strength of the hair coil obtained as described above is measured by using a tensile tester.

Straighten the hair coil and set the measurement site at 50
attached to the chuck so that it becomes mm (wet state),
Pull at a speed of 20 mm for 1 minute to 10 mm and record the load at this time. After measurement, measure this hair coil exactly 60
It is cut into mm, air-dried for one day and night, and weighed by microbalance (conditions, 25 ° C., relative humidity 50%).

From the tensile load value and the weight of the hair coil, the hair strength is calculated by the following formula.

Hair strength = tensile load value (gf) ÷ hair weight / 6 The smaller the hair strength value thus calculated,
This means that the degree of hair damage is high.

(Feeling of Hair) A hair bundle (1.0 g, length 15 cm) was prepared from chemically untreated hair, and a perm rod, one perm agent to be tested, and the above-mentioned perm agent were prepared on the hair bundle. Wave hair is obtained using 2 agents (1 agent: 30 ° C, 2
0 minutes; 2 agents: 30 ° C., 20 minutes, rinse (1 minute), wet and air-dried, and then the feel of hair was evaluated by touch.

The evaluation criteria (average of evaluations by 5 people) are as follows.

++: Very smooth or supple ++: Fairly smooth or supple +: Smooth or supple −: Not smooth or supple (rough or stiff) Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Example 1: The compositions of the present invention (Examples 1 to 7) and the compositions of Comparative Example 1 having the compositions shown in Table I-1 below were individually prepared and evaluated according to the above evaluation methods. The evaluation results are shown in Table I-2 below.

[0055]

[Table 1]

[0056]

[Table 2]

As can be seen from Table I-2, the composition of the present invention has a stronger wave effect and wave elasticity as compared with the composition of Comparative Example 1, reduces the degree of hair damage, and has a bad odor (amount of ammonia volatilization and sulfurization). It can be seen that the amount of generated hydrogen (volatilization) is small, the perm odor is mild in the olfactory judgment, and the feel of the waved hair is smooth in both wet and dry and imparts suppleness.

Example 8 Cold two-bath permanent agent (for normal hair) w / v% Ammonium thiolactate (60%) 14.86 Ammonia water reagent special grade 1.50 Monoethanolamine 0.50 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.00 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium salt 0.10 Toray Silicone BY22-010 * 1 2.00 Marcoat 550 * 2 1.00 Lauryl betaine 0.15 Polyoxyethylene (20 EO) oleyl ether 0.50 Perfume 0.10 Purified water Balanced total 100.00 ml {(MEA ⁺ ) + (MEA)} / ( TL) = 0.12 <0.3 * 1 Silicone microemulsion manufactured by Torre Dow Corning dimethylpolysiloxane, a transparent microemulsion containing a solubilizer * 2 Calgon Corporation cationic polymer aqueous solution dimethyl chloride Diallylammonium and acrylic Copolymer 8.6% Polyoxyethylene (20E.O.) an aqueous solution CTFA name Polyquaternium-7 perfume containing is transparent dissolve adding purified water were dissolved under pressure and oleyl ether temperature with. The rest of the purified water and other ingredients were added to bring the total to 10
Stir to 0 ml.

When 80 ml of this product and 80 ml of 2 agents (sodium bromate 6%, pH = 6.5) were used for the hair and a usual perm treatment was applied, a uniform and elastic wave was formed and the feel of the hair was felt. , Combed, gloss was very good, and there was no smell of hair or perm. The smoothness of the elastic elasticity of the wave was maintained by the daily judgment one week later.

Example 9 Cold Two-Bath Perm Agent 1 Agent (for Hairs) w / v% Ammonium Thiolactic Acid Salt (60%) 14.15 Thiolactic Monoethanolamine Salt (40%) 5.31 Ammonia Water Reagent Special Grade (28% ) 2.42 Monoethanolamine 0.31 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.25 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium 0.10 DCQ-2-7224 * 1 2.00 Marquat 295 * 2 1.00 Lauryl betaine 0.50 Polyoxyethylene (20EO) Oleyl ether 0.50 Perfume 0.15 Purified water Balanced Total 100.00 ml {(MEA ⁺ ) + (MEA)} / (TL ⁻ ) = 0.25 <0.30 * 1 Dow Corning, amino-modified silicone emulsion CTFA name Trimethylsiylamodimethicone * 2 Calgon Corporation, amphoteric polymer Aqueous Solution Copolymer of Dimethyldiallylammonium Chloride and Acrylic Acid 37 % Aqueous solution CTFA name Polyquaternium-22 The preparation method is according to Example 8.

80 ml of this product and 100 ml of the second agent (sodium bromate 8%, pH = 6.0) were used for hard hair, which is relatively hard to be permed, and permed. When the process time for one agent is 15 minutes and for two agents is 10 minutes,
The elastic wave was formed, there was no perm odor, and the gloss, combing and feel were excellent. These properties were maintained even after 2 weeks.

Example 10 Cold two-bath type permanent agent (for damaged hair) w / v% Thiolactic monoethanolamine salt (40%) 18.58 Ammonia water reagent special grade (28%) 1.03 Monoethanolamine 1.70 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.25 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium 0.10 Silicone SC1014M * 1 1.00 Polymer JR400 * 2 0.20 Lauryl betaine 0.50 Polyoxyethylene (20 EO) oleyl ether 0.50 Perfume 0.09 Purified water Balanced total 100.00 ml {(MEA ⁺ ) + (MEA) ^{} / (TL -) = 1.40} > 1.00 * 1 silicone SC1014M, Shin-Etsu chemical Co., Ltd. glycol-modified silicone CTFA name Dimethicone copolyol * 2 polymer JR-400, Union carbide Corp. hydroxyethyl cellulose 2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium Nium Roridoeteru CTFA name Polyquaternium-10 preparation method pursuant to Example 8.

80 ml of this product and 80 ml of the second agent (sodium bromate 6%, pH = 6.5) were used on hair with slightly damaged hair color and permed. When the process time of one agent was 10 minutes and the two agents were left for 10 minutes, a resilient wave was formed. Shiny, combed, feel
It was confirmed that it is a perm agent that has been improved rather than before the perm and has a high conditioning effect. Very little discoloration of the colored hair, and almost no perm odor was felt.

Example 11 Warmed two-bath type permanent agent (for normal hair) w / v% Ammonium thiolactate (60%) 18.58 DL Cysteine hydrochloride monohydrate 2.00 Monoethanolamine 1.00 Ammonia water reagent special grade (28%) 1.00 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 3.00 Dow Corning DC929 * 1 2.00 Adogen 432CG * 2 0.50 Lauryl betaine 0.20 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium 0.05 Polyoxyethylene (20EO) Oleyl ether 0.50 Perfume 0.09 Purified water Balanced total 100.00ml {(MEA ⁺ ) + (MEA)} / (TL ⁻ ) = 0.19 <0.30 * 1 Dow Corning, amino-modified silicone emulsion CTFA name: Amodimethicone * 2 Shellex dicetyldimethylammonium chloride 75% solution CTFA name Dicetyldimonium chloride The preparation method is according to Example 8.

80 ml of this product and 80 ml of the second agent (sodium bromate 6%, pH = 6.5) were used for normal hair and permed. The process time of one agent was kept under a dryer for 10 minutes, and the two agents were left at room temperature for 10 minutes. An elastic wave was formed and the feel was very supple and smooth.

Example 12 Cold Two-Bath Perm Agent 1 Agent (for Normal Hair) w / v% Ammonium Thiolactic Acid Salt (60%) 14.15 Thiolactic Monoethanolamine Salt (40%) 5.31 Ammonia Water Reagent Special Grade (28% ) 2.42 Monoethanolamine 0.31 Ammonium hydrogencarbonate 1.25 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid trisodium 0.10 Toray silicone SM8702C * 1 2.00 Marquat plus 3330 * 2 3.00 Lauryl betaine 0.50 Polyoxyethylene (20EO) Oleyl ether 1.00 Perfume 0.50 Purified water balance total 100.00 ml (monoethanolamine) / (thiolactate anion) = 0.25 / 0.30 (molar concentration ratio) * 1 Torre Dow Corning's amino-modified silicone emulsion * 2 Calgon Corporation, amphoteric polymer aqueous solution dimethyl chloride Diallylammonium, acrylic acid and acetic acid 10% aqueous solution of copolymer with rilamide CTFA name: Polyquaternium-39 The preparation method is according to Example 8.

80 ml of this product and 2 agents (hydrogen peroxide solution,
80% of 2.0% as H ₂ O ₂ and pH 4.0 was used to permeate the normal hair. When the process time of 1 agent was 10 minutes and the time of 2 agents was 5 minutes, an elastic wave was formed. The residual odor of perm does not remain on the hair at all, it is glossy,
It had a good comb feel as well. In the recheck after 3 weeks, he had a good perm and a good feel.

[0068]

The present invention provides a composition which can significantly reduce hair damage and perm odor, and can impart excellent wave maintenance and feel to the hair when used in combination with a permanent second agent.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A composition for treating hair, which comprises a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, wherein (A) the reducing agent and the alkaline agent are for forming a thiolactate anion and a counterion of the anion, and an excess of monoethanolasine. Molar ratio of less than 0.3 or more than 1.0 and selected from the group consisting of (B) amino-modified silicone, glycol-modified silicone, microemulsion of silicone oil, cationic polymer and amphoteric polymer. A composition comprising at least one polymeric substance as described above. 2. A thiolactate anion is contained in an amount of 1.0% by weight to 20% by weight (converted) and a polymeric substance is included in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH is adjusted to 7.5 to 10.0. 3. The composition according to claim 1, which is used as a first agent for permanent wave of hair. 4. The composition according to claim 1, which is used as a hair straightening agent.