JP7313755B1 - Cosmetic raw material - Google Patents

Abstract

[Problem] To provide a cosmetic raw material that is excellent in the effect of improving skin conditions and particularly contributes to improving the skin barrier function. A cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied contains hydroxyproline: 0.1%, acetylhydroxyproline: 0.1%, and licorice flavonoid: 0.00025% by weight based on the total amount in the cosmetic. It has a composition In addition, the present cosmetic raw material can be mixed with various raw materials such that hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline and licorice flavonoid are contained in the above-described amounts to prepare a cosmetic. [Selection figure] None

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic raw materials. More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic raw material that is excellent in improving skin conditions and particularly contributes to improving the skin barrier function.

The skin is exposed to various factors that lead to its morphological changes. For example, rough skin is caused by external factors such as dryness and stimulating substances such as ultraviolet rays, or internal factors such as hormonal imbalance.

In addition, rough skin is accompanied by phenomena such as a decrease in skin barrier function, a decrease in the moisture content of the stratum corneum, accelerated epidermal turnover, and coarsening of the keratin.

In the skin, aging phenomena such as wrinkles, sagging, dullness, and pigmentation occur with aging. In particular, morphological changes such as wrinkles and sagging are considered to be greatly influenced by collagen, which accounts for 90% or more of the dermal matrix.

The amount of collagen decreases with aging, and the decrease in collagen results in imperfect formation of the dermal structure, which is one of the major causes of skin deterioration, wrinkles, and sagging.

Cosmetics containing hydroxyproline have heretofore been proposed to prevent rough skin and improve skin conditions (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

Hydroxyproline is an amino acid peculiar to collagen and abundantly contained in skin collagen, and is known to have an effect of contributing to the stabilization of the collagen structure of the skin.

For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a skin cosmetic containing (A) one or more of D-amino acids, derivatives and/or salts thereof, and (B) one or more of β-alanine derivatives and salts thereof, and containing D-hydroxyproline as the D-amino acid.

JP 2012-051873 A

However, conventional skin cosmetics or cosmetic raw materials, including the composition disclosed in Patent Document 1, are insufficient in improving the skin condition, and there is a demand for an improvement that enhances the favorable effect on the skin.

The present invention was invented in view of the above points, and an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic raw material that is excellent in the effect of improving skin conditions and particularly contributes to improving the skin barrier function.

In order to achieve the above object, the cosmetic raw material of the present invention contains hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline, the content of hydroxyproline is within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25% based on the total amount in the cosmetic, and the content of acetylhydroxyproline is within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25% based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

Here, by containing hydroxyproline, the function of hydroxyproline can be imparted to the cosmetic raw material. That is, for example, effects such as promotion of collagen production in fibroblasts, stabilization of collagen structure, promotion of proliferation of epidermal cells, moisturizing properties, improvement of wrinkles, and alleviation of atopic dermatitis can be imparted. In addition, hydroxyproline is excellent in percutaneous absorbability and can be permeated into skin tissue or vascular system.

Also, by containing acetylhydroxyproline, the function of acetylhydroxyproline can be imparted to the cosmetic raw material. That is, for example, effects such as promotion of collagen production in fibroblasts, increase in skin ceramide content, improvement in skin elasticity and flexibility, improvement in wrinkles, alleviation of atopic dermatitis, proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes, etc. can be imparted. In addition, acetylhydroxyproline is excellent in percutaneous absorbability and can be permeated into skin tissue or vascular system.

Also, by containing hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline, it is possible to improve the skin barrier function and promote the synthesis of ceramide in the skin.

In addition, the content of hydroxyproline is within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25% based on the total amount in the cosmetic, and the content of acetylhydroxyproline is within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, so that there is no cytotoxicity, and it is possible to improve the skin barrier function and promote skin ceramide synthesis while ensuring good cell viability without cytotoxicity.

In addition, when the content of hydroxyproline is within the range of 0.1% to 0.2% based on the total amount in the cosmetic and the content of acetylhydroxyproline is within the range of 0.1% to 0.2% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, it is possible to synergistically improve the skin barrier function and promote the synthesis of ceramide in the skin, rather than using a single component.

Moreover, when licorice flavonoid is contained, the function of licorice flavonoid can be imparted to the cosmetic raw material. That is, for example, the pigmentation inhibitory action and antibacterial action of licorice flavonoids can be imparted. The licorice flavonoids referred to here are oil-soluble extracts obtained by extracting from the roots and rhizomes of Spanish licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra Linne) and uralensis (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisher) or other congeneric plants (Leguminosae).

Moreover, when a lichen extract is contained, the function of the lichen extract can be imparted to the cosmetic raw material. That is, for example, it is possible to impart the effect of proliferating fibroblasts possessed by lichen extract. In addition, the lichen extract as used herein is an oil-soluble extract obtained by extracting lichen (purple root), which is the root of purple (Lithospermum erythrorhizon Siebold et Zuccarini (Boraginaceae)).

In addition, when the content of hydroxyproline is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic, the content of acetylhydroxyproline is 0.1% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, and the content of licorice flavonoid is 0.00025% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, it is possible to improve the skin barrier function and promote the synthesis of ceramide in the skin more synergistically than when a single component acts.

In addition, when the content of hydroxyproline is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic, the content of acetylhydroxyproline is 0.1% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, and the content of lichen extract is 0.01% based on the total amount of the cosmetic, moisturizing properties can be improved more synergistically than when a single component acts.

The cosmetic raw material according to the present invention is excellent in the effect of improving skin conditions, and particularly contributes to the improvement of the skin barrier function.

The composition of a cosmetic raw material, which is an example of the cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied, will be described below.

(First embodiment of the present invention)
The cosmetic raw material shown here has a composition containing hydroxyproline: 0.2% and acetylhydroxyproline: 0.2% by weight based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

In addition, the present cosmetic raw material can be mixed with various raw materials so that hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline are in the above blending amounts to prepare a cosmetic. That is, the cosmetic raw material of the present invention is blended so that the blending amount of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline is 0.2% each based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

Here, various raw materials used in cosmetics include, for example, bases such as purified water, moisturizers (including oils), softeners, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, neutralizers, plant extracts and additives, preservatives, characteristic ingredients, and the like. The present cosmetic raw material can be appropriately mixed with these various raw materials to form a cosmetic.

Also, the various raw materials shown here are merely examples, and it is possible to appropriately set other components and different blending amounts. For example, in addition to the above, chelating agents (sequestering agents), astringents, bactericidal agents, skin activators (vitamins, amino acids and amino acid derivatives), antiphlogistic agents, whitening agents (arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C derivatives, etc.) can be included depending on the type and application of the formulation. Moreover, it is also possible to mix a fragrance and a coloring agent as needed.

Examples of the types of cosmetics include lotions, milky lotions, facial cleansers, cleansers, serums, gels, creams, and the like.

The cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied can be used, for example, as a cosmetic raw material in which it is encapsulated in a liposome having an encapsulating structure, in addition to being mixed with various raw materials.

Here, cosmetics containing cosmetic raw materials to which the present invention is applied exclude use as cosmetics using electrodes. That is, it is not used as a cosmetic that uses a so-called iontophoresis method, in which a pair of electrodes (introduction electrodes) are brought into contact with a living body and an ionized effective component (ionized component) of the cosmetic is introduced into the body while each electrode is energized.

Hydroxyproline is a characteristic component that imparts effects such as promotion of collagen production in fibroblasts, stabilization of collagen structure, promotion of proliferation of epidermal cells, moisturizing properties, improvement of wrinkles, and alleviation of atopic dermatitis.

Here, the blending amount of hydroxyproline is not necessarily limited to 0.2% based on the total amount in the cosmetic. Hydroxyproline has no cytotoxicity, improves the skin barrier function while ensuring good cell viability, and promotes skin ceramide synthesis, based on the total amount in the cosmetic, and can be blended within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25%.

In addition, acetyl hydroxyproline is a characteristic component that imparts effects such as promoting collagen production in fibroblasts, increasing the amount of skin ceramide, improving skin elasticity and flexibility, improving wrinkles, alleviating atopic dermatitis, and increasing epidermal keratinocytes.

Acetyl hydroxyproline is a characteristic ingredient that synergistically enhances the skin barrier function and imparts the effect of promoting skin ceramide synthesis in cosmetics in combination with hydroxyproline.

Here, the amount of acetylhydroxyproline is not necessarily limited to 0.2% based on the total amount in the cosmetic. Acetyl hydroxyproline has no cytotoxicity, improves the skin barrier function while ensuring good cell viability, and promotes skin ceramide synthesis, so it can be blended within the range of 0.00781% to 0.25% based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

(Second embodiment of the present invention)
The cosmetic raw material shown here has a composition containing hydroxyproline: 0.1%, acetylhydroxyproline: 0.1%, and licorice flavonoid: 0.00025% by weight based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

In addition, the present cosmetic raw material can be mixed with various raw materials such that hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline, and licorice flavonoid are contained in the above amounts to prepare a cosmetic. That is, the cosmetic raw material of the present invention is blended so that the blending amounts of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline are each 0.1% and the blending amount of licorice flavonoid is 0.00025% based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

Here, the various raw materials used in cosmetics include, for example, bases such as purified water, moisturizers (including oils), softeners, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, neutralizers, plant extracts and additives, preservatives, characteristic ingredients, and the like. The present cosmetic raw material can be appropriately mixed with these various raw materials to form a cosmetic.

Also, the various raw materials shown here are merely examples, and it is possible to appropriately set other components and different blending amounts. For example, in addition to the above, chelating agents (sequestering agents), astringents, bactericidal agents, skin activators (vitamins, amino acids and amino acid derivatives), antiphlogistic agents, whitening agents (arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C derivatives, etc.) can be included depending on the type and application of the formulation. Moreover, it is also possible to mix a fragrance and a coloring agent as needed.

Examples of the types of cosmetics include lotions, milky lotions, facial cleansers, cleansers, serums, gels, creams, and the like.

The cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied can be used, for example, as a cosmetic raw material in which it is encapsulated in a liposome having an encapsulating structure, in addition to being mixed with various raw materials.

Here, cosmetics containing cosmetic raw materials to which the present invention is applied exclude use as cosmetics using electrodes. That is, it is not used as a cosmetic that uses a so-called iontophoresis method, in which a pair of electrodes (introduction electrodes) are brought into contact with a living body and an ionized effective component (ionized component) of the cosmetic is introduced into the body while each electrode is energized.

Glycyrrhiza flavonoids are medicinal extracts that provide anti-pigmentation and antibacterial effects.

In addition, licorice flavonoid is a component that, in combination with acetylhydroxyproline and hydroxyproline, synergistically enhances the skin barrier function and imparts the effect of promoting skin ceramide synthesis in cosmetics.

Licorice flavonoids were obtained from the roots and rhizomes of Spanish licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra Linne) by extracting with absolute ethanol, concentrating, further extracting with ethyl acetate, and drying under reduced pressure.

Here, the licorice flavonoids are not necessarily limited to those extracted from the roots and rhizomes of Spanish licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra Linne). For example, it is possible to employ those obtained by extracting from the roots and rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisher or other plants of the same genera (Leguminosae).

(Third embodiment of the present invention)
The cosmetic raw material shown here has a composition containing hydroxyproline: 0.1%, acetylhydroxyproline: 0.1%, and lichen extract: 0.01% by weight based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

In addition, the present cosmetic raw material can be mixed with various raw materials such that hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline and lichen extract are blended in the amounts described above to form a cosmetic. That is, the cosmetic raw material of the present invention is blended so that the blending amounts of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline are each 0.1% and the blending amount of licorice flavonoid is 0.01% based on the total amount in the cosmetic.

Here, the various raw materials used in cosmetics include, for example, bases such as purified water, moisturizers (including oils), softeners, surfactants, pH adjusters, thickeners, neutralizers, plant extracts and additives, preservatives, characteristic ingredients, and the like. The present cosmetic raw material can be appropriately mixed with these various raw materials to form a cosmetic.

Also, the various raw materials shown here are merely examples, and it is possible to appropriately set other components and different blending amounts. For example, in addition to the above, chelating agents (sequestering agents), astringents, bactericidal agents, skin activators (vitamins, amino acids and amino acid derivatives), antiphlogistic agents, whitening agents (arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C derivatives, etc.) can be included depending on the type and application of the formulation. Moreover, it is also possible to mix a fragrance and a coloring agent as needed.

Examples of the types of cosmetics include lotions, milky lotions, facial cleansers, cleansers, serums, gels, creams, and the like.

The cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied can be used, for example, as a cosmetic raw material in which it is encapsulated in a liposome having an encapsulating structure, in addition to being mixed with various raw materials.

Here, cosmetics containing cosmetic raw materials to which the present invention is applied exclude use as cosmetics using electrodes. That is, it is not used as a cosmetic that uses a so-called iontophoresis method, in which a pair of electrodes (introduction electrodes) are brought into contact with a living body and an ionized effective component (ionized component) of the cosmetic is introduced into the body while each electrode is energized.

Rhododendron extract is a medicinal extract that imparts a fibroblast proliferation effect.

Moreover, the lichen extract is a component that, in combination with acetylhydroxyproline and hydroxyproline, synergistically imparts an effect of improving moisturizing properties in cosmetics.

The lichen extract is obtained by extracting squalane from Lithospermum erythrorhizon Siebold et Zuccarini (Boraginaceae) roots.

Here, extraction of the lichen extract is not necessarily limited to extraction with squalane. For example, it is possible to extract with an extraction solvent such as isopropyl palmitate or ether.

As described above, the cosmetic raw material to which the present invention is applied is excellent in the effect of improving skin conditions, and in particular contributes to the improvement of the skin barrier function.

Examples of the present invention will be described below.

EXAMPLES Examples and comparative examples of cosmetic raw materials to which the present invention was applied were produced, and the following evaluations were performed.
(1) Samples First, hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline were added to the culture medium so that the concentrations shown in Table 1 were obtained, and cell viability was evaluated as follows in Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2. For example, in Comparative Example 1 in Table 1, each concentration of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline is 0.5%, and in Example 1, each concentration of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline is 0.25%.

(2) Evaluation of cell viability
NHEKs (normal human epidermal keratinocytes) were harvested from culture flasks. Cells were counted and seeded at 2×10 ⁴ cells in each well of a 96-well microplate. It was cultured overnight in an incubator at 37°C. On the next day, the overnight culture medium was collected, and hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline were adjusted to each concentration shown in Table 1 and added to the culture medium (Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2). 100 μl of the culture medium after addition was added to each well of a 96-well microplate and cultured overnight at 37° C. in an incubator. The next day, Cell Counting Kit-8 was adjusted to 10% in the medium. The overnight culture was collected, and 100 μl of the prepared culture medium+Cell Counting Kit-8 was added to each well of a 96-well microplate. The 96-well microplate after the addition was allowed to stand in a 37° C. incubator for 4 hours. Then, the absorbance (wavelength: (1) 450 nm, (2) 650 nm, half width: 5 nm) was measured with a microplate reader to calculate the cell viability. The numerical value of each component shown in Table 1 below indicates the concentration (%) of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline in the culture solution or the cell viability (%).

All of Examples 1 to 6 exhibited good cell viability (%) exceeding 100%, demonstrating no cytotoxicity.

(3) Cellular gene expression evaluation
NHEKs (normal human epidermal keratinocytes) were harvested from culture flasks. Cells were counted and seeded at 3×10 ⁵ cells in each well of a 6-well plate. It was cultured overnight in an incubator at 37°C. On the next day, the overnight culture medium was collected, and hydroxyproline or acetylhydroxyproline was adjusted to the concentration (%) shown below and added to the culture medium.
Example 7: Hydroxyproline (0.2%), Acetylhydroxyproline (0.2%)
Example 8: Hydroxyproline (0.1%), Acetylhydroxyproline (0.1%)
Comparative Example 3: Hydroxyproline (0.2%)
2 mL of the culture solution after addition was added to each well of a 6-well plate, and cultured overnight at 37° C. in an incubator. The next day, RNA was collected using an RNA culture HC kit (manufactured by Kurabo Industries: RC-S2) and Quick Gene (manufactured by Fujifilm Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.). cDNA was synthesized from the recovered RNA using a High-Capacity cDNA Reverse Transcription Kit (manufactured by Thermo Fisher Scientific: product number 4368814) and a thermal cycler (manufactured by Astec Co., Ltd.: Astec GeneAtlas). We mixed the synthesized cDNA with the adjusted primers for evaluation purposes, and analyzed the gene expression levels of barrier-related factors involved in skin barrier function using a real-time thermal cycler.

In addition, the numerical values in Table 2 below are the results showing the signal value ratio (ratio) when the control (sample containing no hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline) is set to 1 for each gene of the sample added with Examples 7 to 8 and Comparative Example 3.

Barrier-related factors evaluated were as follows.
OCLN: One of the proteins that contributes to the formation of tight junctions that play a part in the skin barrier function. These factors cause cells to adhere to each other, forming tight junctions and exerting the skin barrier function.
SMPD1: One of the ceramide synthesis-related enzymes involved in ceramide biosynthesis in the skin. Ceramide is a type of intercellular lipid that fills between corneocytes of the skin.
TGM1: Epidermal enzyme involved in protein cross-linking. Used as an indicator of epidermal cell maturation. Epidermal cell maturation is significantly involved in ceramide production.
CLDN1: One of the proteins that contributes to the formation of tight junctions that play a role in the skin barrier function. These factors cause cells to adhere to each other, forming tight junctions and exerting the skin barrier function.

In Examples 7 and 8, an increase in gene expression level was confirmed as compared to Comparative Example 3 for both barrier-related factors.

(4) Cell viability evaluation Glycyrrhiza flavonoid was added to the culture medium at concentrations shown in Table 3, and cell viability evaluation was performed as in Examples 9 to 13 in the same manner as in (2) above. In Examples 9 to 13, the concentrations of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline were set to 0.1%, respectively. For example, Example 9 in Table 3 has a concentration of 0.1% each of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline, and a concentration of licorice flavonoid of 0.000250%.

In addition, radish extract was added to the culture medium so that each concentration shown in Table 4 was obtained, and cell viability was evaluated as in Examples 14 to 19 in the same manner as in (2) above. Further, in Examples 14 to 19, the concentrations of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline were each set to 0.1%. For example, in Example 14 in Table 4, each concentration of hydroxyproline and acetylhydroxyproline is 0.1%, and the concentration of lichen extract is 0.04%.

All of Examples 9 to 13 exhibited good cell viability (%) exceeding 100%, demonstrating no cytotoxicity.
Moreover, in Examples 14 to 19, all exhibited good cell viability (%) values exceeding 100%, demonstrating no cytotoxicity.

(5) Evaluation of Cellular Gene Expression In the same way as in (3) above, the expression levels of genes for barrier-related factors involved in skin barrier function were analyzed for Examples 8, 20, and 21 below.
Example 20: Hydroxyproline (0.1%), Acetylhydroxyproline (0.1%), Glycyrrhiza flavonoids (0.00025%)
Example 21: Hydroxyproline (0.1%), Acetylhydroxyproline (0.1%), Chikon extract (0.01%)
Example 8: Hydroxyproline (0.1%), Acetylhydroxyproline (0.1%)

In addition, the numerical values in Table 5 below are the results showing the signal value ratio (ratio) when the analysis value of Example 8 is set to 1 for each gene of the sample to which Example 20 and Example 21 were added.

Barrier-related factors evaluated were as follows.
OCLN, SMPD1, TGM1 (see (3) above)
FLG: A protein that is the source of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which is a moisturizing ingredient possessed by humans.

In Example 20, an increase in gene expression level was confirmed as compared with Example 8 for OCLN, SMPD1, and TGM1.
In Example 21, compared with Example 8, an increase in gene expression level was confirmed for FLG.

Claims (2)

hydroxyproline;
acetyl hydroxyproline and
containing licorice flavonoids,
The hydroxyproline content is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
The acetylhydroxyproline content is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
The content of the hydroxyproline and the acetylhydroxyproline is the same,
The licorice flavonoid content is 0.00025% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
Characterized by improving skin barrier function and promoting skin ceramide synthesis
Raw materials for cosmetics. hydroxyproline;
acetyl hydroxyproline and
Contains lichen extract and
The hydroxyproline content is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
The acetylhydroxyproline content is 0.1% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
The content of the hydroxyproline and the acetylhydroxyproline is the same,
The content of the lichen extract is 0.01% based on the total amount in the cosmetic,
Characterized by improving moisture retention
Raw materials for cosmetics .