JP6507788B2 - Woven and knitted fabric with anti-shedding properties - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric obtained by combining (or mixing) cellulose acetate fiber yarn and polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn.

  More specifically, the present invention provides a polyester fiber yarn having firmness and stiffness and resilience, drape and dry touch, and polyamide without impairing the elegant gloss, color development and dry touch of cellulose acetate fiber yarn. Excellent hygroscopicity and softness with low Young's modulus due to moderate hygroscopicity of fiber yarn, and excellent resistance to be imparted by improvement of both polyester fiber yarn and polyamide fiber yarn. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having functionality such as transparency, UV shielding, water absorption, stretchability and washable effect, and a garment using the woven or knitted fabric.

  Fibers used for textiles such as textiles and knits used for clothing are natural fibers, chemical fibers and synthetic fibers, and these fibers are used alone or in combination. The woven and knitted fabric made of those fibers is given the expressive power and the functional element as the texture element depending on the fiber performance to be used, and in the field of fashion, casual and sport due to the difference in the characteristic and value etc. It is used as a clothing material.

  In recent years, natural fibers and cellulosic chemical fibers are often used as fiber materials in the fashion field, and chemical fibers tend to be used mainly in synthetic fibers in the casual and sports fields. Such a tendency is that consumers' preference for natural fibers is strong in the fashion field, and functionality required for outdoor applications is required in the casual and sports fields, and advances in functional processing advances the sophistication of functions It seems to be because

  The synthetic fibers used in the woven field in the fashion field most commonly include polyester fibers, and nylon fibers and acrylic fibers may be used alone or in combination. In addition, as acetate fibers, diacetate fibers need to be treated in the normal temperature and pressure region at dyeing temperatures, and their use in combination with polyester fibers to be dyed in high temperature and high pressure regions is generally limited. Triacetate fibers which can be dyed are preferably used in combination.

  Since triacetate fiber has the lowest refractive index property among fibers used for clothing applications as a fiber property, it is highly colored because dispersed dye dyeing extremely suppresses surface reflection. Furthermore, this triacetate fiber has a unique luster due to the polymer substrate and the characteristic fiber cross-sectional shape, so when it is made into a fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric, it has an elegant and elegant luster and luster that can not be obtained with other chemical fiber filaments. It is possible to obtain a chromogenic property having a feeling.

  However, triacetate fibers, on the other hand, have low fiber strength as compared to other chemical fibers and synthetic fibers, and the strength of the fibers is low and fragile, so they tend to become fluff in the manufacturing process of woven and knitted fabrics, and the abrasion strength of woven and knitted fabrics Has the problem of being prone to wearing problems such as being small and fuzzy. Therefore, in order to complement the performance by combining or mixing with other chemical fibers or synthetic fibers mainly with polyester fiber yarn, woven fabrics are manufactured by a combination of various types of selection and mixing techniques.

  In addition, when triacetate fiber and other fibers are mixed, the reason why triacetate fiber is compounded with polyester fiber in a large amount is that the fiber property of triacetate fiber is made into green and processed in the dyeing process, and the shrinkage of fiber is low, Even in the case of twisted yarn, there is no untwisting torque, and because there are few three-dimensional thermal behavior changes due to linear contraction of fibers, there are few elements that contribute to the surface texture of the work cloth and the feeling of texture such as swelling. It is.

  On the other hand, in the dyed processed fabric using triacetate fiber, black is blacker due to the low refractive index characteristic of the triacetate fiber, and the glossiness by the fiber cross section is expressed as the glossiness of black. Therefore, since triacetate fiber was recognized as a black formal textile material for women's wear, development by compounding with polyester fiber yarn has progressed, and polyester fiber and yarn processing technology compatible with triacetate fiber and dyeing technology, and further dyeing Advances in processing technology have greatly contributed to the improvement of the texture quality of mixed materials of triacetate fiber and polyester fiber.

  Development and development were made on the point of high color development and good dry touch of woven and knitted fabric used in the fashion application of women's clothes with polyester fiber yarn and yarn processing technology cultivated by such black formal application material development. Various proposals have been made.

  On the other hand, for highly textured woven fabrics with high sensitivity composed of advanced technologies using natural fibers and chemical fibers, the needs in fashion applications are diversified, and the stretch and stretchback properties and water-absorbing quick-drying properties are higher than before. Furthermore, there is a strong demand for a woven or knitted fabric that can cope with the functional performance of being difficult to see through when used for a white bottom application or the like.

  With regard to these performances, development and proposal using 100% by mass of synthetic fibers are made by development of raw yarn, particularly in woven and knitted fabrics in the field of sports and the like. As a cloth having an effect of preventing see-through by a composite technology of cellulose acetate fiber and polyester fiber yarn, a proposal has been made to use 3-leaf cross-sectional acetate fiber to which inorganic particles are added (see Patent Document 1). However, in this proposal, it is not possible to obtain the effect of excellent anti-susceptibility with a white to off-white processed cloth in which color development and dry touch are compatible.

  In addition, woven fabrics have been proposed for use as a back-preventing backing made of highly crimped cellulosic fibers (see Patent Document 2). However, in the case of this proposal, it is technically difficult to obtain the performance corresponding to the outer surface.

  Moreover, in order to prevent discoloration, the cloth by the multilayer structure of two or more layers which used the cellulose fiber and the chemical fiber is proposed (refer patent document 3). However, this proposal is different from the one corresponding to the high texture obtained by the textile by combining triacetate fiber and polyester fiber.

  On the other hand, in a fabric having a double structure of the front surface side and the back surface side, it has been proposed to obtain an anti-permeable fabric by the difference in color between the front surface side and the back surface side (see Patent Document 4). However, in this proposal, the L * value of the surface is a light color of 70 or more, but the back side is a two-layer structure with gray and the front and back sides are not white or off-white. It's hard to say that it's dough. Furthermore, in this proposal, although the use of fludal fiber is described for the technical method, nothing is disclosed about the color development and dryness of the acetate fiber and the whiteness on the front and back to obtain the anti-susceptibility.

JP 2007-23396 A JP, 2006-138030, A Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 9-273085 gazette Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2010-126821

  As described above, woven fabrics having high sensitivity and high texture in coloration, gloss and luster, and texture and wear of the surface, which are often used in fashion clothing in the prior art, are, for example, in the hot summer season. Even when trying to wear unlined garments, it becomes impossible due to the sense of sheer. In such a case, the density and the use of thick yarns will correspond to such cases, but such a correspondence hinders the feeling of wearing and affects the appearance of the tailoring.

  In order to maintain the high texture of the woven and knitted fabric when using cellulose acetate fiber yarn, the ratio of cellulose acetate fiber yarn in the case of a woven and knitted fabric in which cellulose acetate fiber yarn and other fiber yarn are mixed to make a textile 70 to 80 mass% is said to be a golden ratio.

  On the other hand, in the case of a woven or knitted fabric made of triacetate fiber yarn having no anti-smearing effect, it is necessary to provide an anti-smearing effect so that the high texture of the woven or knitted fabric is not inhibited as much as possible. From such a point of view, the anti-shedding evaluation method according to the anti-shedding evaluation method, even in the use where the ratio of cellulose acetate fiber yarn is less than 70 mass%, by complexing with the yarn having anti-shedding effect and intensive study of the woven and knitted structure. It was confirmed that a woven or knitted fabric having an anti-shedding effect of 90% or more in the sex index value was obtained.

  Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide an anti-abrasion property that can correspond to a sewing specification that does not use a backing, particularly in woven or knitted fabrics whose color is white or off-white (defined as slightly gray or yellowish white) It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric and a garment made using this woven or knitted fabric.

  The present inventors diligently studied from the viewpoint of solving the above-mentioned problems. According to the present invention, consumers are aware of the high color developability by low refraction when made into a woven or knitted fabric, the polymer substrate, the gloss and glossiness by the cross-sectional shape, and the dry touch as characteristics of acetate fiber yarn conventionally I was conscious. That is, the present inventors recognized the need for a woven or knitted fabric having excellent functionality such as stretchability and washability, without impeding high texture corresponding to the high-class feeling as fashion clothing, and imparting excellent anti-permeability. Therefore, by combining the acetate fiber yarn with the polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn contributing to the anti-smearing property, and by designing the woven or knitted fabric, the anti-smearing property can be applied to the sewn specification without using a lining. It came to the completion of the woven fabric having.

The woven / knitted fabric having anti-smearing properties of the present invention is a composite woven / knitted material in which cellulose acetate fiber yarn and polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn are mixed, and satisfies the following (1) to (4) It is a woven or knitted fabric having an anti-permeability characterized by
(1) L * a * b * color system of front and back, L * (D65) value measured by standard light source D65 is 90 or more (off white to white area),
(2) The mixing ratio of the above-mentioned cellulose acetate fiber yarn is 70 to 30% by mass,
(3) The mixing ratio of the polyester fiber yarn containing 2 to 30% by mass of titanium dioxide or the polyamide fiber yarn is 30 to 70% by mass,
(4) 90% or more of the reluctance shown by the following formula (a) of the woven or knitted fabric measured by a spectrocolorimeter capable of simultaneously measuring SCI (including regular reflection light) and SCE (regular reflection light removal) To be
-Opacity (%) = 100-(Lfw-Lfb) / (Lw-Lb) x 100 ... (a)
However,
・ L * (D65) obtained by layering white fabric on the bottom of the woven and knitted fabric: Lfw,
L * (D65): Lfb, obtained by measuring the color of a black fabric overlaid on the bottom of a woven or knitted fabric
・ L * (D65): Lw (standard 90 to 91) obtained by measuring the white cloth to be superimposed
-L * (D65) which measured the black cloth which piles up: Lb (standard 19-20).

  According to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric having anti-smearing properties of the present invention, the polyester fiber or the polyamide fiber has a core side containing 3 to 20% by mass of titanium dioxide and 0 to 2% by mass of titanium dioxide A core-sheath or side-by-side type conjugate yarn composed of a sheath side containing

  According to a preferred embodiment of the woven / knitted fabric having anti-smearing properties of the present invention, the cellulose acetate fiber yarn is a multifilament yarn of triacetate fiber or a staple fiber spun yarn of triacetate fiber.

  Further, in the present invention, among the natural fibers, chemical fibers and synthetic fibers, the spun yarn or / and the filament yarn comprising at least one fiber of the functional fibers and the synthetic fiber other than the above-mentioned anti-soiling effect are cross woven Alternatively, it can be obtained by interwoven knitting.

Specifically, according to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric having the anti-permeability of the present invention, a stretch comprising a natural fiber or a cellulose-based chemical fiber composited with a polyurethane-based elastic yarn as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn. bimetallic conjugated composite yarn with thread or polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate is added, is that formed by interweaving or mixed knitting.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric having anti-smearing property of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric having the above-described anti-smeared property is dyed in white or off-white.

  In the present invention, a garment obtained by sewing according to a specification that does not use a backing is manufactured from the woven or knitted fabric having the releasability described in any of the above.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a sewn specification garment that does not use a lining by enhancing the anti-shedding effect of a woven or knitted fabric formed by combining a cellulose acetate fiber yarn and a polyester-based fiber yarn or a polyamide-based fiber yarn. An applicable woven or knitted fabric is obtained.

  The greatest feature of cellulose acetate fiber yarn is high color development due to low refractive index of the fiber, gloss due to the fiber substrate and fiber cross-sectional shape effect, and high quality gloss and dry touch. However, cellulose acetate fiber yarn is difficult to process because it is affected by alkali and acid in the dyeing process of a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester fiber yarn and polyamide fiber yarn. Therefore, it is possible to cope with the dyeing process conditions of cellulose acetate fiber yarn, and by using polyester fiber yarn and polyamide fiber yarn which do not inhibit the high texture of cellulose acetate fiber yarn and by the structural design of the woven and knitted fabric, the anti-shedding property You can get the effect.

  In addition, in areas where the color of the woven or knitted fabric is off-white to white L * (D65) is 90 or more, it contributes to the anti-shedding effect, and in any color areas of L * 90 or less, it is a feature of cellulose acetate fiber yarn The effect of being able to dye a woven or knitted fabric excellent in high coloring properties, gloss and glossiness with the same living machine is great. Furthermore, staple fibers of polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn to be composited, multifilament yarn, other natural fibers and chemical fibers can be selected and combined. Thereby, in the woven and knitted fabric and the garments using the same, the stretchability, the stiffness and stiffness, the resilience and drapability, the surface effect such as wrinkles and marbling, the wrinkle resistance, and the wash and wear and lightness A woven or knitted fabric that exhibits excellent property effects for clothing applications that also has functionality such as

FIG. 1 is a conceptual perspective view for explaining a measurement method by a spectrocolorimeter for evaluating the anti-permeability of the present invention.

Next, the woven and knitted fabric having the characteristic anti-susceptibility of the present invention will be described in more detail.

  The woven and knitted fabric having excellent anti-permeability according to the present invention can be obtained by compounding of cellulose acetate fiber yarn and polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn such as cross-weaving or cross-knitting. The woven or knitted fabric having the anti-smearing properties of the present invention has a high color developing property with any color by the low refractive index of fiber properties of cellulose acetate fiber yarn, and a texture having gloss, gloss and elegant dry touch by the fiber substrate and fiber cross-sectional shape. In the woven or knitted fabric dyed to white (white to off-white area) without impairing the properties, it has a combination of functionality such as stretch resistance and washability that contributes to the anti-shedding effect and the wearability for clothing. It is said that.

  In the present invention, it is important that the mixing ratio is 70 to 30% by mass and at least 30% by mass of cellulose acetate fiber is present on the surface of the woven and knitted fabric in order not to impair the characteristics of the cellulose acetate fiber. is there. This is possible by making the structure of the woven or knitted fabric half or more of the warp yarn in the case of woven or warp knitting. Moreover, if it is a circular knitting, it is possible by making it 1/2 or more by arrangement of the yarn feeder of a weft yarn, ie, a well. Also, in the case of a woven fabric, it is usually possible to adjust the surface mixture ratio by the woven fabric since it is composed of warp yarns and weft yarns.

  Further, since the use ratio of the fiber yarn also relates to the thickness of the raw yarn to be used, it can be designed by converting the total fineness of the raw yarn to be used and the count value. For example, in the case of a satin structure, the warp yarn covers most of the surface of the fabric, so that if the cellulose acetate fiber yarn is a warp yarn, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having both the surface effect of the present invention and the anti-reflection effect.

  However, the texture required for weaving of fashion clothing is at a high level and there is no limitation of the organization. Therefore, it is important to design a woven or knitted fabric using cellulose acetate fiber yarn, polyester fiber yarn, polyamide fiber yarn and, if necessary, other fiber yarns.

  As the compounding technology of fiber yarns, in addition to the cross-weaving and the cross-knitting, techniques such as double-twisting, double-twisting, mixed-fibering and covering of the fibers to be combined with the cellulose acetate fiber yarns are possible. Moreover, the number of twists in the case of twisted yarn and other composite conditions can be implemented within the range that is usually performed.

  Next, cellulose acetate fiber yarns and fiber yarns used in composite are described.

  As cellulose acetate fiber yarn, usually, two types of diacetate fiber yarn and triacetate fiber yarn are preferably used. The diacetate fiber yarn is a normal temperature / pressure dyed type and is not preferably used in combination with a high temperature dyed polyester fiber yarn. However, it can be used in combination with polyamide-based nylon fiber yarn or normal temperature / pressure dyeable polyester fiber yarn. Further, as the triacetate fiber yarn, normal polyester fiber yarns and polyamide fiber yarns that can be thermally handled in the high temperature and high pressure region can be used for composite formation.

  Further, as a kind of triacetate fiber yarn, a spun yarn obtained by spinning a multifilament yarn or a short fiber can be used. In the case of a spun yarn, a blend with polyester staple fibers and a long-short composite spun yarn with a filament yarn can be used. As a fiber yarn used for forming a composite with a cellulose acetate long fiber yarn, the complementary role of physical properties such as strength and abrasion when wearing a sewn product of a cellulose acetate fiber using a cellulose acetate fiber is not inhibited and the characteristics of the cellulose acetate fiber are not inhibited. Surface touch and swelling of woven or knitted fabric, role that contributes to tailoring of sewn products such as stiffness, firmness and generality, or role of wearing and handling functionality such as stretchability, washable property, and wrinkle resistance A thread of a variety that achieves the intended purpose is used.

  Next, polyester fiber yarns and polyamide fiber yarns used in the present invention will be described. As the performance of polyester fiber yarns and polyamide fiber yarns, it is a preferred embodiment to use a fiber yarn that imparts an effect on the anti-permeability in clothes when worn in white or off-white sewing fabrics.

  As a fiber yarn suitably used to impart anti-susceptibility to be used for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, a raw yarn into which white-based ceramic particles are mixed is useful. As white-based ceramic particles, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide and titanium oxide can be mentioned, but generally, titanium dioxide is preferably used from the viewpoint that the addition rate can be widely selected in spinning.

  In the present invention, as polyester-based fiber yarns and polyamide-based fiber yarns for the purpose of imparting anti-permeability, false-twisted yarns of filament yarns obtained by kneading titanium dioxide with preferably 2 to 3% by mass of a polymer It is possible to use drawn false-twisted yarns or spun yarns of spun raw cotton.

  Furthermore, in order to enhance the anti-permeability effect, a fiber obtained by spinning a polymer in which the content of titanium dioxide is, for example, 3% by mass to 30% by mass is used. For example, a fiber in which a mixed polymer of titanium dioxide is disposed on the core side of a core-sheath type composite spinneret is used without problems such as guide wear in the process of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric.

  These fibers can also be applied as spun yarns in which filament yarns and short fibers are spun. As the structure of the core-sheath type yarn, the shape of the short fiber may be a round cross section or an irregular cross section, and the core and sheath polymers may be polyesters, polyamides or a combination of two polymers. You can also. Further, in a preferred embodiment, when the structure of the raw yarn is a sea-island type or a lamination type and the fineness of the single fiber is extremely thin, it is a fiber with high titanium dioxide kneaded on the inner layer side. Also in the case of these core-sheath type fiber yarns, false twisting and air processing can be performed and used as filament yarns, and can also be used as short fiber spun yarns.

  Cellulose acetate fibers are produced by mixing polyester fiber yarns or polyamide fiber yarns of the type imparting anti-smearing properties with cellulose acetate fiber yarns so as not to inhibit the characteristics of the cellulose acetate fiber yarns. In the combination of yarns and further fiber yarns, it is useful to place each fiber yarn alone on the front or back of the woven or knitted fabric to create a structure.

  Specifically, in the case of a woven fabric, it is easy to exhibit the respective features by selecting a structure in which cellulose acetate fiber yarns are arranged in the warp yarns and the fiber yarns having the anti-shedding effect are arranged in the weft yarns.

  In the present invention, vertical duplex, horizontal double and vertical / horizontal double tissue are effective as the woven tissue. The cellulose acetate fiber yarn of the warp yarn can be used in which the number of twists is preferably selected in the range of 0 to 2,000 t / m to adapt to the texture of the woven or knitted fabric desired. Also, composite yarns in which other fiber yarns for stretchability are combined in the longitudinal direction can be used.

  Further, as the weft yarn, a yarn having anti-permeability effect can be used, and in the same manner as the warp yarn, a yarn whose twisting number condition is selected can be used. For example, specifically, in the case of a warp double weave structure, a cellulose acetate fiber yarn is arranged in a warp yarn constituting the cloth surface side of the woven or knitted fabric, and a polyester side by side type conjugate to the warp yarn constituting the cloth back side. By arranging the filaments to contribute to the texture of the woven or knitted fabric, and arranging polyester fiber yarns of anti-shedding effect on the weft yarns, a fabric is obtained that exerts the effects of both cellulose acetate fiber yarns and polyester fiber yarns. Be

  As the properties of the fiber yarns constituting these woven and knitted fabrics, yarns obtained by twisting filament yarns, yarns obtained by false twisting, yarns obtained by twisting false twist yarns, yarns having a stretching effect and yarn yarns with covering effect can be used. Threads can be used. In particular, a type of false-twisted yarn to which bulkiness is imparted by performing crimp application by air twisting or air processing greatly contributes most to the anti-reflection effect. As bulky fiber yarns other than false twist textured yarns, fiber yarns in which three-dimensional crimp is expressed by polyester fiber yarns or laminated conjugates of two or more polyamide polymer components have stretchability effects. It is preferably used in that it can be applied together.

  In addition, since the cellulose acetate fiber yarn is a cellulose raw material as the property of the polymer, the strength of the spun fiber generally decreases by kneading other substances. Therefore, the amount used is limited. For example, cellulose acetate fiber yarn is a cellulose raw material as a semi-synthetic fiber, but has low hygroscopicity and low antistatic effect since it is substituted with OH groups, but antistatic fibers by kneading of multiple components Hard to get.

As the improvement, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is difficult to control the fiber shrinkage of the polyester fiber yarn or the polyamide fiber yarn and the fiber shrinkage of the cellulose acetate fiber yarn, and it is difficult to control by heat treatment. Since it is impossible to obtain a type filament yarn, it is useful to mix with a high shrinkage type polyester fiber yarn. Therefore, in mixing these polyester fiber yarns, polyamide fiber yarns, and other fiber yarns, it is necessary to impart the characteristics of the mixing fiber yarn without losing the effect of the cellulose acetate fiber yarn.
Therefore, it is important that the mixing ratio of the cellulose acetate fiber is 70 to 30% by mass, and more preferably 65 to 35% by mass.

  Clothing in the fashion field is required to have a high-quality look for tailoring, and as woven or knitted fabrics, fabrics with a glossiness that is elegant for coloring and glossiness are required. As clothing items, shirts, blouses and dresses of outerwear are light fabrics with a relatively low fabric weight. On the other hand, jackets and set-up suits as Tops, and skirts and pants as individual bottoms are relatively thick fabrics with relatively large fabric weight.

  All of these sewn product items, plain dyeing products, are required to have a very wide range of colors. Specifically, achromatic white to black as a so-called colorimetric value of lightness (L *) in the range corresponding to 100 to 0, and also the hue, saturation and lightness L by the three primary colors of red, green and blue It is further complicated because it is selected in the range of chromatic colors represented by * a * b *, and even the same hue changes complicatedly by the effect of gloss depending on the material.

  In these color ranges, traditionally, the high color developability of acetate fiber yarn and the white (off white to off white area) resistance in woven and knitted fabrics with elegant luster, gloss and dry touch Although the fabric was strongly sought after, the anti-smearing fabric was not developed as having a poor color.

This particularly demanding item of white to off-white is the fabric used for pants, skirts, jackets and shirtings, and has been sought in spring-to-summer sewing designs without lining. The pants were a tight-style sewn product when worn, and in particular the see-through of the undergarment and the sewn parts of the sewn parts had strong hope for the opaque pants, because the see-through of the sew-over of the sewn parts interfered with the quality. The dough property amount for pants is a fabric weight of about 300 g / m ² . As a kind of acetate fiber yarn, preferably a yarn having a total fineness of 84T to 167 dtex is used, and a kind of polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn to be combined also has a similar total fineness of preferably 84T to 167 dtex A yarn of fineness is used.

  The cellulose acetate fiber yarn used in the present invention needs to avoid the use of alkali and acid used for synthetic fibers in the dyeing process. Cellulose acetate fiber yarn can not be subjected to alkali reduction treatment like polyester fiber yarn. Therefore, a multifilament variety with a fineness degree that contributes to softness is desired as the fiber property to be selected. In addition, in order not to use a lining, it is also necessary to consider selection of varieties such as cotton and rayon blend which are effective for sweat treatment from the feeling of wearing. Furthermore, it is necessary to stretch the woven or knitted fabric as a feeling of wearing, and it is necessary to adopt stretchable yarn and to cope with the design of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when worn in spring or summer, the number of times of washing is also required and the washable property is also required.

It is the shirt that has the greatest demand for anti-abrasion in tops items. Wearing a shirt is considered to be more likely to be worn on bare skin in summer. The shirting fabric has a smaller fabric weight of about 150 g / m ² and a acetate fiber yarn to be used, with a total fineness of preferably 56 dtex to 84 dtex as a center, compared to pant fabrics and the like. In addition, a variety of polyester fiber yarns or polyamide fiber yarns used for imparting the function of preventing light penetration is also a yarn having a total fineness of 84 dtex as a center. Furthermore, in the fabric design aspect of the woven or knitted fabric, consideration is given to the combination with the texture and yarn density, and the stretchability and washability as other fabric performance, and other fiber yarn varieties used for imparting water absorption fast drying. is necessary.

  Raw yarns used for imparting stretchability include laminates of a polyurethane-based elastic fiber, a polyester-based fiber, and a polymer having a difference in polymerization degree of two or more types of polyamide-based polymers, or an eccentric core-sheath structure The so-called bimetal conjugate fiber which expresses a three-dimensional crimp by heat treatment by. Further, it is a further desirable aspect that the above-mentioned bimetal conjugate fiber yarn is one using a ceramic-added polymer having a repelling effect.

  As a fiber yarn for imparting the anti-shedding effect, a crimped expression fiber yarn obtained by false twisting a raw yarn is preferably used. The polyurethane elastic yarn can be used in combination with the above-mentioned fiber yarn imparting anti-susceptibility. As a composite means, for example, in the case of a filament yarn, a method using covering twisting yarn or air composite twisting yarn, etc. may be mentioned, and if it is a short fiber, a method using CSY (core spun yarn) in spinning or The method by ply yarn with a spun yarn etc. are mentioned. Further, the fiber yarn having the anti-shedding effect may not be a stretch yarn, but may be CSY of commonly used cotton or rayon fiber.

  The looms and stretchability-imparting looms by the combination of acetate fiber yarn and synthetic fibers are not suitable for processing with strong alkalinity or acidity in the dyeing process and the like. Therefore, even if the density of the fabric is too high and it becomes hard, it is not possible to apply the alkali reduction processing performed in the dyeing processing process of synthetic fibers and the like. Therefore, it is important to select a stretch imparting fiber yarn and design of a greige machine in which the composite ratio of other fiber yarns to be combined with acetate fiber yarn is limited to 30 to 70% by mass.

  Next, the dyeing of a composite woven or knitted fabric comprising acetate fiber yarn, polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn imparting anti-susceptibility, and other yarn imparting functionality and texture is described. With regard to the dyeing process and conditions of the woven and knitted fabric using acetate fiber yarn, there are differences in dyeing temperature between normal pressure dyeing correspondence and high pressure dyeing correspondence depending on when the acetate fiber yarn is a diacetate fiber and a triacetate fiber.

  As the acetate fiber yarn, a woven or knitted fabric made of a composite with a polyester fiber yarn is preferably used in normal fashion applications. In particular, since the texture of triacetate fibers is preferred, there are many woven and knitted fabrics in which the blending ratio of triacetate fibers is 80% as the golden ratio and the blending ratio of 70% or more. Staining is performed.

  The dyeing process of a composite woven / knitted fabric machine comprising an acetate fiber yarn and the polyester or polyamide fiber yarn characterized by the anti-smearing property of the present invention and further another fiber yarn is polyester based in the white and off-white regions. In the case of a living machine in which fiber yarns are combined, high pressure dyeing is performed, and in the case of a living machine in which polyamide fiber yarns are combined, normal pressure dyeing is used. For example, in the case where the polyamide fiber yarn is a fiber yarn using nylon 66 based polymer, high-pressure dyeing up to a temperature of 120 ° C. can cope with it. There is no problem with the whiteness of acetate fiber yarn, polyester fiber yarn or polyamide fiber yarn, even if it is performed in the neutral range of PH in order to avoid the decrease in strength of acetate fiber yarn, for the scouring and relaxation treatment of the green machine. Possible as a yellowish off-white color of natural fiber cotton or wool.

  The expected off-white color by the combination with the fiber yarn imparting anti-susceptibility in the region as white is considered to be preferably 90 or more as the L * value of the L * a * b * colorimetric system measurement. When the above L * value is less than 90, even if it does not enter the light dyed area and use the yarn for imparting the anti-susceptibility, the area has a possibility that the anti-susceptibility can be obtained by the hue.

  In addition, the woven or knitted fabric obtained there has a depth due to the low refractive index effect and the cross-sectional effect as a fiber substrate that is characteristic of acetate fiber yarn by dyeing in the hue of ordinary light color, medium color and dark color area. A high-class woven or knitted fabric is obtained that has hue, saturation and glossiness and is characterized by a mild dry touch as a textured texture.

  Further, according to the present invention, a garment comprising a woven or knitted fabric in which the cellulose acetate fiber yarn of the present invention and a polyester fiber yarn or a polyamide fiber yarn, and further another fiber yarn are combined, comprising: jacket, pants, skirt, dress Garments for women's and men's applications that are characterized as outerwears such as dresses and shirts can be provided.

  The woven and knitted fabric using the conventional acetate fiber yarn can not cope with a sewn item that uses a white fabric and requires an anti-masking effect because it is an anycolor dyed fabric.

  On the other hand, as in the present invention, a yarn having anti-reflection effect is used, and by providing a woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-reflection without impairing the characteristics of the cellulose acetate yarn, whiteness and anti-reflection are provided. It has the advantage of being able to be dyed and processed on any color sewing product items from sewing product items that do not use backings that are required. Furthermore, as functional effects of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, there is provided a sewn garment having the comfort by the stretchability when worn, the wrinkle resistance, the quick-drying ability to absorb water and the washability.

  Next, the woven or knitted fabric excellent in the anti-permeability of the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. Each characteristic value shown in the description of the above specification and in the examples is measured by the following method.

(1) Whiteness of woven or knitted fabric:
The whiteness of the woven or knitted fabric can be measured using a L * a * b * colorimetric spectrophotometer CM-3600d manufactured by Konica Minolta Co., Ltd., a light source D65, a viewing angle of 10 degrees, and a SCI method (conditions including specular light) Measure the lightness L * value of each of the front and back surfaces of the sample. The measurement sample is attached to the measuring device and measured in two or more folds according to the fabric weight. Measurement is taken twice and taken as the average value.

(2) Anti-shedding property:
The anti-smearing property is calculated according to the anti-smearing property calculation formula by measuring L * according to the measurement method shown in FIG. 1 using the same spectrophotometer as the whiteness measurement. The anti-reflection measurement sample 1 is prepared by cutting to a predetermined size and a predetermined size. Moreover, 100% taffeta (L * = 90-91) using a round cross section semi-dual polyester filament is used as a white board, and the L * value (Lw) of the used taffeta is measured. Also, using a round cross-section semi-dal filament 100% taffeta (L * = 19 to 20) as a blackboard, the L * value (Lb) of the used taffeta is measured. In the measurement procedure, the white taffeta 2 is quadruple on the back surface of the measurement sample 1 and mounted on a colorimeter, and the L * value (Lfw) 4 of the surface is measured. Next, the black taffeta 3 is overlapped in quadruplicate on the back surface of the same sample and mounted on a colorimeter, and the L * value (Lfb) 5 of the surface is measured. The measurement is performed five times, and the average value is determined. The measured value is applied to the following formula (a) to determine the anti-smearing property. The measurement is performed with a D65 light source 6, a viewing angle of 10 degrees, and an SEC method (specular reflection light removal conditions) using a L * a * b * colorimetry spectrophotometer CM-3600d manufactured by Konica Minolta Co., Ltd. And calculated by the following equation (a). The index of the repellence is less transparent as it approaches 100 (%).
-Opacity (%) = 100-(Lfw-Lfb) / (Lw-Lb) x 100 ... (a)
(3) Stretchability of woven or knitted fabric:
The stretchability of the fabric can be measured according to JIS L 1096 (2010) Section 8.16.1 b) Method B (Constant Load Method for Fabrics) and Stretch Recovery B-1 Method (Slow Weighted One Hour by Constant Load Method) It measured by). In addition, the stretchability of the knit applies d) D method.

(4) Wrinkle resistance of woven and knitted fabric:
The wrinkle resistance of the woven or knitted fabric was measured by JIS L 1059-1 (Monsanto method) B method (2009 version).

(5) The washable nature of the woven or knitted fabric:
Dimensional stability and appearance change were evaluated by the following test methods. Dimensional stability is defined as the dimensional change in JIS L 1096 (2010 edition) Section 8.39, the type of test method in 8.39.1, F-1 method (washer method) and F-1 method (low temperature washer method). Applied.

  Appearance changes are evaluated according to JIS L 0217 (1995 edition) display symbols regarding the handling of textile products and their appearance method when compared with AATCC 128 (1997 edition) replica according to the display method 105 method, by comparison with AATCC 128 (1997 edition) replica went.

(6) Weight of woven and knitted fabric:
The fabric weight of the woven or knitted fabric was measured using the method of mass A method per unit area under the standard condition defined in JIS L 1096 (2010 version).

(7) Thickness of woven or knitted fabric:
The thickness of the woven or knitted fabric was measured using the method of thickness A specified in JIS L 1096 (2010 edition).

(8) Water absorbency of woven and knitted fabric:
Water absorbency of the woven or knitted fabric was measured using a dropping method defined in JIS L 1907 (2010 version).

Example 1
A polyester-based fiber is used for the back side of the woven fabric by using 167 dtex 40 filaments (bright, S twist 800 t / m) of triacetate fiber multifilament yarn made by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. as the front side of the fabric. 110 dt x 48 filaments of a bimetallic conjugate fiber multifilament yarn based on a polymer 2 component having a viscosity difference as yarn (two semi-dull 56 dtex 24 filaments, S-twisted 1,300 t / m) are arranged, and a vertical double tissue We set up for the rapier loom.

  For the weft yarn, a polyester processed yarn having a total fineness of 84 dtex 48 filaments was used as a raw yarn having an anti-shedding effect, and two raw yarns were aligned to weave a green fabric. This weft yarn is composed of 10% by mass of polyester bright polymer for the sheath and 90% by mass of polyester fludal polymer in which titanium oxide is kneaded at a high concentration of 6.5% by mass for the core, using round filaments of 24 filaments and 6 After spinning at 3,000 m / min from a spinneret of a shape disposed on a leaf cross-section 24 filament to obtain POY, it is a textured yarn subjected to drawing and false twisting processing under high crimp application conditions.

  The woven texture of the woven machine was a vertical double 2/2 Nanako, with a vertical density of 129 / 2.54 cm and a horizontal density of 91 / 2.54 cm.

  Subsequently, the obtained green machine is dried after scouring and relaxing with an open soap as a normal dyeing process, and after being processed to be off-white with a jet flow dyeing machine, an antistatic treatment, a soft finishing treatment and a finishing set are performed. A finished fabric was obtained. The finished woven fabric thus obtained had a vertical density of 200 / 2.54 cm and a horizontal density of 112 / cm.

As a result of measuring the fiber mixing ratio of the finished fabric, it was 35% by mass of triacetate fiber multifilament yarn and 65% by mass of polyester fiber yarn. Also, the finished fabric has a basis weight of 213 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.6 mm, a whiteness L * value of 95.09 for the front, 95.12 for the back, and 97.1% of the anti-shedding property. It was excellent in anti-shedding effect.

  Further, the wrinkle resistance was 92% and 90% for the vertical and the horizontal, respectively, and the level was excellent in the wrinkle resistance. The stretchability was 25% elongation at recovery rate 90%, and the water absorbability was 1 second before washing, which was an excellent level of 3 seconds after 10 washings. In addition, the dimensional change rate (F-1 method) of vertical and horizontal is excellent at -2.0% and -1.0%, respectively, and the appearance change in domestic washing JIS L0217 105 method is 4 It was a grade, and it was confirmed that the washability was also good.

  In addition, the texture of the fabric is that the white gloss of the surface has an elegance with the elegant luster of triacetate, and has a dry touch with a squeaky touch, and as a result of actually sewing ladies' pants, It has a transparent anti-shedding effect of underwear, and a product with an excellent sense of quality in silhouette is obtained. In addition, it was confirmed that there was soft stretch and the feeling of wearing was excellent.

  Furthermore, as a result of dyeing the above-mentioned living machine widely in the range of black and red, blue and yellow three primary colors any color light color to dark color in the dyeing process step, the luster and luster of triacetate fiber yarn like white and off-white It has been confirmed that there is an excellent refined surface treatment, and a high-quality woven fabric can be obtained.

(Comparative example 1)
Using the warp yarn of Example 1, and using a polymer containing 0.2% by mass of titanium dioxide conventionally and conventionally used as weft yarn, draw two false twisted yarn (DTY) 84 dtex 48 filaments of polyester long fiber It weaved on the same conditions as Example 1 except having used by alignment, and implemented dyeing processing simultaneously. The finished fabric, although the texture of the triacetate fiber yarn is expressed, has a low resistance of 89%, and is a level at which the underwear can be seen through when worn as a sewn product.

(Example 2 (Reference Example) )
The same triacetate fiber multifilament yarn as in Example 1 is used for the warp yarn, the weft yarn is a yarn having a total denier of 66 dtex 24 filaments and a total denier as a yarn having anti-shedding, moisture absorption and release effects and stretchability. Using a covering yarn with a polyurethane elastic yarn of 44 dtex (three times the draw ratio, S twist 600 t / m), a green fabric was woven.
This nylon false twist yarn is a nylon 6 having a moisture absorption component blended with 5.0% by mass of polyvinyl pyrrolidone ("LUVITEC" (registered trademark) K30 special grade manufactured by BASF) and an anti-reflective component blended with 2.3% by mass of titanium dioxide. The polymer is melt-spun at a spinning speed of 4500 m / min from a spinneret consisting of 12 holes of round cross section and 12 holes of 6 cross section, and the shape of the polymer is 78 dte
After obtaining POY of x24 filaments, false twisting was applied to obtain wooly yarn with a total fineness of 66 dtex 24 filaments.

  The woven texture of the woven machine was a 3/1 twill, and the density was 122 / 2.54 cm, and the density of weft was 74 / 2.54 cm.

  Subsequently, the obtained living machine was subjected to scouring relaxation in a normal pressure area as a normal dyeing step, dried and set, and then dyed off-white in a jet flow dyeing machine. Then, an antistatic treatment and a soft finishing treatment and finishing set were performed to obtain a fabric. The finished fabric had a vertical density of 152 / 2.54 cm and a horizontal density of 87 / cm.

As a result of measuring the mixing ratio of fibers of the finished fabric, it was 63% by mass of triacetate fiber yarn, 32% by mass of nylon 6 fiber yarn, and 5% by mass of polyurethane elastic yarn. The finished fabric has a basis weight of 190 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.49 mm, a whiteness L * value of 93.76 for the surface, 93.72 for the back, and 90.1% of the anti-reflective property. Was an excellent textile.

  Further, the wrinkle resistance was 90% and 90% for the vertical and the horizontal, respectively, and the level was excellent in the wrinkle resistance. The stretchability was 7% in the lateral direction, the recovery rate was 90%, the water absorbency was 2 seconds before washing, and 5 seconds after 10 times of washing. In addition, the dimensional change (F-1 method) of the vertical and horizontal is excellent at 0.5% and + 1%, respectively, and the appearance change in the 105 method of home washing JIS L0217 (1995 version) is 4 It was a grade, and it was confirmed that the washability was also good.

  In addition, the texture of the fabric is that the white gloss of the surface has an elegance with an elegant luster of triacetate, the touch has a dry touch with a squeaky feeling, and the back has a hygroscopic nylon 6 full dal irregular shaped filament yarn The moistness due to the hygroscopicity of the touch is excellent for a sense of wear and kidnapping, as a result of actually sewing with a one-piece design, the triacetate fiber yarn gloss and gloss are elegant, the silhouette is also supple and excellent in drapability, It was confirmed that the effect of fludal nylon was also excellent in the anti-shedding property.

(Comparative example 2)
Example: The weft yarn of Example 2 is changed to a false-twisted wooly yarn of a regular nylon yarn 78T-52 semidal filament using a polymer containing 0.2% by mass of titanium dioxide which is conventionally and generally used. The raw fabric was woven under the same conditions as 2 and the dyeing process was carried out simultaneously with Example 2. The whiteness of the obtained fabric was white with an L * value of 95 for both front and back, but the anti-shedding property is low at 86%, and when worn as a sewn product, there is a problem with the anti-masking property The

(Example 3 (Reference Example) )
Using the same triacetate fiber multifilament yarns as in Example 1 to the warp yarn, we have rows warping of Ox tissue, planted in an air jet loom. In addition, the following two varieties were used for weft yarn to weave the lumber. One of the two types is a yarn obtained by aligning two polyester-processed yarns having a total fineness of 84 dtex 48 filaments having the anti-reflection effect used for the same weft yarn as in Example 1, and the other is the texture and surface effect. Using a No. 30 blended yarn of 70% by mass of cotton and 30% by mass of hemp (ramie), a horizontal arrangement was carried out in a 1: 1 arrangement to obtain a green machine.

  The obtained green fabric was subjected to a silket process and a scouring bleach relaxation process as a normal natural fiber mixing process, and after drying, was dyed off-white with a flow dyeing machine. Then, after performing fluff treatment processing, a finishing set was performed. The finished fabric had a vertical density of 140 / 2.54 cm and a horizontal density of 84 / 2.54 cm.

The mixed fiber ratio of the finished fabric was measured to be 63% by mass of triacetate fiber yarn, 17% by mass of polyester fiber yarn, 14% by mass of cotton, and 6% by mass of hemp. Moreover, the fabric weight of the finished fabric is 170 g / m ² and the thickness is 0.4 mm, the whiteness L * value is 94.70 on the surface, 94.70 on the back, and 91.7 %, It was a textile excellent in anti-shedding effect.

  The wrinkle resistance was 89% and 85%, respectively, and the water absorbability was excellent at 1 second before washing and 3 seconds after 10 times of washing. Moreover, the dimensional change (F-1 method) of the vertical and horizontal is excellent at 0% and -1%, respectively, and the appearance change in the domestic washing JIS L0217 (1995 version) method 105 is the fourth grade. It was also confirmed that the washability was also good.

  In fact, the sewn product obtained as a result of sewing without lining in spring and summer women's pants specifications using this fabric has the gloss of triacetate fiber yarn and the natural surface feeling of natural fibers, and the touch is also good. It was confirmed that an elegant texture with no sheen was obtained.

(Example 4 (Reference Example) )
The same warp yarn as in Example 3 was used, and weft weave was performed using the following two varieties. One of the two varieties used the same weft as in Example 1 and Example 3. This is a yarn obtained by aligning two polyester processed yarns having a total fineness of 84 dtex 48 filaments, which has an anti-permeation effect. The other as bimetallic conjugate multifilament according to some polymeric bicomponent viscous differential, high viscosity side polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) polymer 50% by mass, the low IV polyethylene terephthalate (PET) polymer to the low viscosity side It is a configuration in which 50% by mass is arranged, and it is a yarn in which two bi-metallic semidual yarns of 56 dtex 24 filaments obtained by spinning and drawing this are arranged in a line to prevent additional twist of 1,300 t / m in the S direction and twist prevention. . The two types of thread were subjected to horizontal driving in a 1: 1 arrangement to obtain a living machine.

The obtained green fabric was subjected to dyeing under the same conditions as in Example 1. As a result, the finished fabric had a warp density of 200 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 112 / cm. As a result of measuring the mixing ratio of fibers of the finished fabric, the mixing ratio of the fabric was 65% by mass of triacetate fiber yarn and 35% by mass of polyester fiber yarn. Also, the finished fabric has a basis weight of 195 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.45 mm, a whiteness L * value of 94.3 on the surface, 94.12 on the back, and an anti-reflective property of 92.5% It was a fabric with excellent effects.

  The wrinkle resistance was 92% and 93% for the vertical and the horizontal, respectively, and the level was excellent in the wrinkle resistance. In addition, the stretchability in the horizontal direction was extended and the recovery rate was 21%, and the water absorbability was an excellent level of 2 seconds before washing and 3 seconds after washing 10 times. The dimensional change rate of vertical and horizontal (F-1 method) is -1.0% and -1.0%, respectively, and the dimensional stability is good, and the appearance change in domestic washing JIS L0217 105 method is 4th grade It was confirmed that there was good washability.

  In addition, the texture of the fabric is such that the white gloss of the surface has an elegance with the elegant luster of the triacetate fiber yarn, the texture has a dry touch with a squeaky feeling, and the swelling and repulsion and the drape Sex and stretch were also excellent. As a result of actually sewing women's pants, it has the sheer effect of sheer undergarments, and obtained a superior product with a sense of luxury with an excellent silhouette.

(Comparative example 3)
Same as Example 3 using the same warp yarn as in Example 3, without using the anti-shedding effect yarn in weft yarn, and using only 30 yarn count of cotton and hemp mixed yarn contributing to texture and surface effect A living machine was made under the conditions, and the dyeing step was processed simultaneously with Example 3. The finished fabric had an elegant and glossy surface feeling of triacetate fiber yarn, but had a strong feeling of mottle of cotton hemp, and although the quality was natural, it was somewhat inferior to a high-grade feeling. In addition, the anti-shedding property was as low as 84%, which was a level at which the inside of the clothes could be seen through when worn.

1: Measurement sample 2: White taffeta 3: Black taffeta 4: Surface L * value (Lfw)
5: L * value of surface (Lfb)

Claims (5)

A composite woven or knitted fabric in which a cellulose acetate fiber yarn and a polyester fiber yarn or a polyamide fiber yarn are used in a mixed manner, and having the following properties (1) to (4). .
(1) L * a * b * color system of front and back, L * (D65) value measured with standard light source D65 is 95.09 or more (off-white to white area),
(2) The mixed ratio of the cellulose acetate fiber yarn is 70 to 30% by mass,
(3) Blending ratio of core-sheath polyester fiber yarn comprising the core side containing 3 to 20% by mass of titanium dioxide and the sheath side containing 0 to 2% by mass of titanium dioxide or the polyamide fiber yarn Is 30 to 70% by mass, and
(4) 90 or more of the reluctance shown by the following formula (a) of the woven or knitted fabric to be measured by a spectrocolorimeter capable of simultaneously measuring SCI (including regular reflection light) and SCE (regular reflection light removal) To be
· Opacity resistance = 100-(Lfw-Lfb) / (Lw-Lb) x 100 ... (a)
However,
・ L * (D65) obtained by layering white fabric on the bottom of the woven and knitted fabric: Lfw,
L * (D65): Lfb, obtained by measuring the color of a black fabric overlaid on the bottom of a woven or knitted fabric
・ L * (D65): Lw (standard 90 to 91) obtained by measuring the white cloth to be superimposed
-L * (D65) which measured the black cloth which piles up: Lb (standard 19-20).   2. A woven or knitted fabric having anti-lighting properties according to claim 1, wherein the cellulose acetate fiber yarn is a multifilament yarn of triacetate fiber or a short fiber spun yarn of triacetate fiber. As warp and / or weft, bimetal conjugated composite yarn of natural fibers or stretch yarn cellulosic chemical fibers, which are combined with the polyurethane-based elastic yarn or polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, union or mixed knitting The woven or knitted fabric having anti-smearing properties according to claim 1, characterized in that The woven or knitted fabric having anti-smearing properties according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , which is dyed in white or off-white. The garment in which the woven / knitted fabric having the anti-permeability according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is sewn according to a specification without using a backing.