JP6346091B2 - 皮膚を処理するための方法および組成物 - Google Patents
皮膚を処理するための方法および組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6346091B2 JP6346091B2 JP2014535696A JP2014535696A JP6346091B2 JP 6346091 B2 JP6346091 B2 JP 6346091B2 JP 2014535696 A JP2014535696 A JP 2014535696A JP 2014535696 A JP2014535696 A JP 2014535696A JP 6346091 B2 JP6346091 B2 JP 6346091B2
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Description
(a)日中に、化学的または物理的UVサンスクリーン剤を含有する組成物で皮膚細胞を処理すること;
(b)夜間に、日照時間中のUV曝露に起因する減少した、不規則な、または非同期的なper1遺伝子発現を有しうる皮膚細胞を、処理した該細胞のper1遺伝子発現を増加および/または同期化させるのに十分な量のチコリ酸で処理すること
を含むレジメンで皮膚細胞を処理するための方法を対象とする。
I.定義
本明細書中で言及した全てのパーセンテージは、他に指定しない限り、重量パーセントである。
本発明の方法においては、チコリ酸を、皮膚細胞、好ましくは顔または身体の皮膚上にある皮膚細胞に、処理した該細胞におけるper1遺伝子発現を増加および/または同期化させるのに十分な量で適用する。最も好ましくは、チコリ酸を化粧品組成物中に組み入れ、該組成物を使用することにより皮膚細胞、好ましくはケラチノサイトを処理する。このような場合、チコリ酸の推奨範囲は約0.000001〜約40%、好ましくは約0.000005〜35%、より好ましくは約0.00001〜25%である。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物は、少なくとも1種のDNA修復酵素もまた含有する。推奨範囲は、約0.00001〜約35%、好ましくは約0.00005〜約30%、より好ましくは約0.0001〜約25%の1種以上のDNA修復酵素である。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物は、エマルション、水溶液もしくは分散液、ゲル、または無水組成物の形態であってもよい。エマルションの形態である場合、該組成物は油中水型または水中油型のエマルションであってもよい。エマルションの形態である場合、該組成物は、約1〜99%、好ましくは約5〜90%、より好ましくは約10〜85%の水と、約1〜99%、好ましくは約5〜90%、より好ましくは約5〜75%の油を含有していてもよい。水性懸濁液または分散液の形態である場合、該組成物は一般に、約1〜99.9%、好ましくは約5〜95%、より好ましくは約10〜90%の水を、活性成分または他の処方成分である残りの成分と共に含有していてもよい。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物は、1種以上の保湿剤を含有していてもよい。存在する場合、それら保湿剤は約0.1〜75%、好ましくは約0.5〜70%、より好ましくは約0.5〜40%の範囲をとりうる。適切な保湿剤の具体例としては、グリコール、糖などが挙げられる。適切なグリコールはモノマーまたはポリマーの形態であり、また例として、ポリエチレンおよびポリプロピレングリコール(例えば、4〜10個の繰返しエチレンオキシド単位を有するポリエチレングリコールであるPEG 4-10);ならびにC1〜6アルキレングリコール(例えば、プロピレングリコール、ブチレングリコール、ペンチレングリコールなど)が挙げられる。適切な糖(その一部は多価アルコールでもある)もまた適切な保湿剤である。かかる糖の具体例としては、グルコース、フルクトース、ハチミツ、水添ハチミツ、イノシトール、マルトース、マンニトール、マルチトール、ソルビトール、スクロース、キシリトール、キシロースなどが挙げられる。同様に、尿素も適している。好ましくは、本発明の組成物に使用する保湿剤は、C1〜6、好ましくはC2〜4アルキレングリコール、最も具体的にはブチレングリコールである。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物にとっては、特にエマルション形態である場合に、1種以上の界面活性剤を含有させることが望ましい場合がある。しかし、かかる界面活性剤は、該組成物が溶液、懸濁液、または無水である場合にも使用してよく、また極性を有する成分、例えば顔料(pigments)を分散させるのに役立つ。かかる界面活性剤はシリコーン系であっても、または有機系であってもよい。該界面活性剤は油中水型または水中油型形態の安定したエマルションの形成にも役立つ。存在する場合、該界面活性剤は全組成物の約0.001〜30重量%、好ましくは約0.005〜25重量%、より好ましくは約0.1〜20重量%でありうる。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物は、1種以上の非イオン性有機界面活性剤を含んでいてもよい。適切な非イオン性界面活性剤としては、アルコールとアルキレンオキシド(通常はエチレンまたはプロピレンオキシド)との反応により形成されるアルコキシル化アルコールまたはエーテルが挙げられる。適切なアルコールとしては、一価、二価、もしくは多価短鎖(C1〜6)アルコール;芳香族もしくは脂肪族の飽和もしくは不飽和脂肪(C12〜40)アルコール、またはコレステロールなどが挙げられる。
同様に、様々なタイプのシリコーン系またはシラン系界面活性剤も適している。具体例としては、エチレンオキシド基またはプロピレンオキシド基で置換されたオルガノシロキサン、例えば、ポリエチレングリコールで置換されたジメチコンであるPEGジメチコン(例えば、PEG-1ジメチコン;PEG-4ジメチコン;PEG-8ジメチコン;PEG-12ジメチコン;PEG-20ジメチコンなどのINCI名を有するもの)が挙げられる。
1種以上の追加の植物抽出物(成分としてチコリ酸を含有するものを除く)を前記組成物に組み入れることが望ましい場合がある。存在する場合、その推奨範囲は約0.0001〜20%、好ましくは約0.0005〜15%、より好ましくは約0.001〜10%である。適切な植物抽出物としては、例えば花、果実、野菜などの植物(草本、根、花、果実、種子)からの抽出物、例えば、酵母発酵抽出物、パディナ・パボニカ(Padina pavonica)抽出物、サーマス・サーモフィリス(Thermus thermophilis)発酵抽出物、アマナズナ(Camelina sativa)種子油、ボスウェリア・セラータ(Boswellia serrata)抽出物、オリーブ抽出物、フサアカシア(Acacia dealbata)抽出物、ギンヨウカエデ(Acer saccharinum)(サトウカエデ)、アシドフォルス(Acidopholus)、ショウブ属(Acorus)、トチノキ属(Aesculus)、ハラタケ属(Agaricus)、リュウゼツラン属(Agave)、キンミズヒキ属(Agrimonia)、藻類、アロエ、柑橘類、アブラナ属(Brassica)、シナモン、オレンジ、リンゴ、ブルーベリー、クランベリー、モモ、西洋ナシ、レモン、ライム、エンドウマメ、海藻、カフェイン、緑茶、カモミール、ヤナギの樹皮(willowbark)、クワの実、ケシ、およびCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 第8版、第2巻の第1646〜1660頁に記載されているものが挙げられる。さらなる具体的な例としては、限定するものではないが、カンゾウ(Glycyrrhiza glabra)、クロヤナギ(Salix nigra)、オオウキモ(Macrocycstis pyrifera)、パイラス・マルス(Pyrus malus)、ユキノシタ(Saxifraga sarmentosa)、ヨーロッパブドウ(Vitis vinifera)、クロミグワ(Morus nigra)、コガネバナ(Scutellaria baicalensis)、ローマカミツレ(Anthemis nobilis)、クラリセージ(Salvia sclarea)、ローズマリー(Rosmarinus officianalis)、レモン(Citrus limonum)、オタネニンジン(Panax ginseng)、ツクシメナモミ(Siegesbeckia orientalis)、ウメ(Fructus mume)、アスコフィラム・ノドサム(Ascophyllum nodosum)、ツルマメ(Glycine soja)抽出物、サトウダイコン(Beta vulgaris)、フッカツソウ(Haberlea rhodopensis)、イタドリ(Polygonum cuspidatum)、オレンジ(Citrus aurantium dulcis)、ヨーロッパブドウ(Vitis vinifera)、イワヒバ(Selaginella tamariscina)、ホップ(Humulus lupulus)、ポンカン(Citrus reticulata)の皮、ザクロ(Punica granatum)、アスパラゴプシス(Asparagopsis)、ウコン(Curcuma longa)、ミツガシワ(Menyanthes trifoliata)、ヒマワリ(Helianthus annuus)、オオムギ(Hordeum vulgare)、キュウリ(Cucumis sativus)、ツノマタゴケ(Evernia prunastri)、エベルニア・フルフラセア(Evernia furfuracea)、ヒメコラノキ(Kola acuminata)、およびそれらの混合物が挙げられる。
同様に、様々なタイプの生物学的物質、例えば、細胞、発酵物などに由来する生物学的物質も適している。存在する場合、かかる物質は約0.001〜30%、好ましくは約0.005〜25%、より好ましくは約0.01〜20%でありうる。具体例としては、細胞RNAもしくはDNAの断片、またはプロバイオティック微生物が挙げられる。特に好適なのはRNA断片である。
本発明の方法において使用する組成物がエマルション形態である場合、該組成物は油相を含みうる。油性成分は皮膚の保湿および保護特性のために望ましい。適切な油としては、本明細書中に明記した油を含むがそれらに限定されない、シリコーン、エステル、植物油、合成油が挙げられる。該油は、揮発性であっても、または不揮発性であってもよく、また好ましくは室温で流動性のある(pourable)液体の形態である。「揮発性」という用語は、その油が測定可能な蒸気圧、または20℃で少なくとも約2 mm水銀の蒸気圧を有することを意味する。「不揮発性」という用語は、その油が20℃で約2 mm水銀未満の蒸気圧を有することを意味する。
適切な揮発性油は一般に、25℃で約0.5〜5センチストークスの粘度を有しており、直鎖シリコーン、環状シリコーン、パラフィン系炭化水素、またはそれらの混合物が挙げられる。
を有する。
を有するものも適している。
揮発性油として同様に適しているのは、5、6、7、8、9、10、11、12、13、14、15、16、17、18、19、または20個の炭素原子、より好ましくは8〜16個の炭素原子を有する様々な直鎖または分岐鎖パラフィン系炭化水素である。適切な炭化水素としては、米国特許第3,439,088号および第3,818,105号(これらの文献はいずれも参照により本明細書中に組み込まれるものとする)に開示されているペンタン、ヘキサン、ヘプタン、デカン、ドデカン、テトラデカン、トリデカン、およびC8〜20イソパラフィンが挙げられる。好適な揮発性パラフィン系炭化水素は、70〜225、好ましくは160〜190の分子量、および30〜320℃、好ましくは60〜260℃の沸点範囲、および25℃で約10 cst未満の粘度を有している。かかるパラフィン系炭化水素は、EXXONからISOPARSという商標名で入手可能であり、またPermethyl Corporationからも入手可能である。適切なC12イソパラフィンはPermethyl CorporationによりPermethyl 99Aという商品名で製造されている。イソヘキサデカン(Permethyl Rという商品名を有する)などの市販されている様々なC16イソパラフィンもまた適している。
種々の不揮発性油もまた本発明の組成物への使用に適している。不揮発性油は一般に25℃で約5〜10センチストークス超の粘度を有しており、また25℃で粘度が約1,000,000センチポアズにまで及ぶ場合がある。不揮発性油の具体例としては、限定するものではないが、以下のものが挙げられる。
適切なエステルはモノ-、ジ-、およびトリエステルである。本組成物はこの群、またはそれらの混合物から選択される1種以上のエステルを含んでいてもよい。
モノエステルは、式R-COOH(式中のRは、2〜45個の炭素原子を有する、直鎖もしくは分岐鎖の飽和もしくは不飽和アルキル、またはフェニルである)を有するモノカルボン酸と、式R-OH(式中のRは、2〜30個の炭素原子を有する直鎖もしくは分岐鎖の飽和もしくは不飽和アルキル、またはフェニルである)を有するアルコールの反応により形成されるエステルと定義される。該アルコールと該酸はいずれも、1つまたは複数のヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよい。該酸または該アルコールの一方または両方が「脂肪」酸または「脂肪」アルコールであってよく、また約6〜30個の炭素原子、より好ましくは12、14、16、18、または22個の炭素原子を直鎖または分岐鎖、飽和または不飽和の形態で有していてもよい。本発明の組成物に使用しうるモノエステル油の具体例としては、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、イソステアリン酸ブチル、イソステアリン酸ヘキサデシル、パルミチン酸セチル、ネオペンタン酸イソステアリル、ヘプタン酸ステアリル、イソノナン酸イソステアリル、乳酸ステアリル、オクタン酸ステアリル、ステアリン酸ステアリル、イソノナン酸イソノニルなどが挙げられる。
適切なジエステルは、ジカルボン酸と脂肪族もしくは芳香族アルコールとの反応生成物、または少なくとも2つの置換ヒドロキシル基を有する脂肪族もしくは芳香族アルコールとモノカルボン酸との反応生成物である。ジカルボン酸は2〜30個の炭素原子を含有していてもよく、また直鎖または分岐鎖の、飽和または不飽和形態であってもよい。ジカルボン酸は1つまたは複数のヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよい。脂肪族または芳香族アルコールも同様に2〜30個の炭素原子を含有していてもよく、また直鎖もしくは分岐鎖の、飽和、もしくは不飽和形態であってもよい。好ましくは、前記の酸またはアルコールの1種以上が脂肪酸または脂肪アルコールである、すなわち、12〜22個の炭素原子を含有する。またジカルボン酸はαヒドロキシ酸であってもよい。前記のエステルは二量体または三量体の形態であってもよい。本発明の組成物に使用しうるジエステル油の具体例としては、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、セバシン酸ジブチル、ダイマージリノール酸ジセテアリル、アジピン酸ジセチル、アジピン酸ジイソセチル、アジピン酸ジイソノニル、ダイマージリノール酸ジイソステアリル、フマル酸ジイソステアリル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、リンゴ酸ジオクチルなどが挙げられる。
適切なトリエステルは、トリカルボン酸と脂肪族または芳香族アルコールとの反応生成物、あるいは3つ以上の置換ヒドロキシル基を有する脂肪族または芳香族アルコールとモノカルボン酸との反応生成物を含む。上記のモノ-およびジエステルと同様に、該酸および該アルコールは2〜30個の炭素原子を含有しており、また飽和もしくは不飽和の、直鎖もしくは分岐鎖であってよく、また1つまたは複数のヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよい。好ましくは、該酸または該アルコールの1種以上が、12〜22個の炭素原子を含有する脂肪酸または脂肪アルコールである。トリエステルの具体例としては、アラキドン酸、クエン酸、またはベヘン酸のエステル、例えばトリアラキジン、クエン酸トリブチル、クエン酸トリイソステアリル、クエン酸トリC12-13アルキル、トリカプリリン、クエン酸トリカプリリル、ベヘン酸トリデシル、クエン酸トリオクチルドデシル、ベヘン酸トリデシル;またはヤシ油脂肪酸トリデシル、イソノナン酸トリデシルなどが挙げられる。
(b).炭化水素油
1種以上の不揮発性炭化水素油を、本発明の方法において使用する組成物に組み入れることが望ましい場合がある。適切な不揮発性炭化水素油としては、パラフィン系炭化水素およびオレフィン、好ましくは約20個超の炭素原子を有するものが挙げられる。かかる炭化水素油の具体例としては、C24-28オレフィン、C30-45オレフィン、C20-40イソパラフィン、水添ポリイソブテン、ポリイソブテン、ポリデセン、水添ポリデセン、鉱油、ペンタヒドロスクアレン、スクアレン、スクアラン、およびそれらの混合物が挙げられる。ある好適な実施形態においては、かかる炭化水素は約300〜1000ダルトンの分子量を有する。
脂肪酸の合成または天然に存在するグリセリルエステル、またはトリグリセリドもまた前記組成物における使用に適している。植物源と動物源の両方を使用することができる。かかる油の具体例としては、ヒマシ油、ラノリン油、C10〜18トリグリセリド、トリ(カプリル酸/カプリン酸)グリセリル、甘扁桃油、杏仁油、ゴマ油、アマナズナ(camelina sativa)油、タマヌ種子油、ヤシ油、コーン油、綿実油、アマニ油、インクオイル、オリーブ油、パーム油、イリッペ脂、ナタネ油、ダイズ油、ブドウ種子油、ヒマワリ種子油、クルミ油などが挙げられる。
水溶性と水不溶性の両方の不揮発性シリコーン油もまた前記組成物における使用に適している。かかるシリコーンは好ましくは、25℃で約5超〜800,000 cst、好ましくは20〜200,000 cstの粘度を有している。適切な水不溶性シリコーンとしては、アモジメチコンなどのアミン官能性シリコーンが挙げられる。
を有する場合がある。Aがメチルシロキシエンドキャップ単位、特にトリメチルシロキシであり、RおよびR'が各々独立してC1〜30直鎖もしくは分岐鎖のアルキル、フェニル、またはトリメチルシロキシ、より好ましくはC1〜22アルキル、フェニル、またはトリメチルシロキシ、最も好ましくはメチル、フェニル、またはトリメチルシロキシであり、結果として生成するシリコーンがジメチコン、フェニルジメチコン、ジフェニルジメチコン、フェニルトリメチコン、またはトリメチルシロキシフェニルジメチコンである場合が好ましい。他の具体例としては、アルキルジメチコン、例えばセチルジメチコンなどが挙げられ、その際、少なくとも1つのRが脂肪アルキル(C12、C14、C16、C18、C20、またはC22)であり、他のRがメチルであり、かつAがトリメチルシロキシエンドキャップ単位であるが、かかるアルキルジメチコンが室温で流動性のある液体であることを条件とする。フェニルトリメチコンはDow Corning Corporationから556 Fluidという商品名で購入することができる。トリメチルシロキシフェニルジメチコンはWacker-ChemieからPDM-1000という商品名で購入することができる。液体シリコーンワックスとも称されるセチルジメチコンは、Dow CorningからFluid 2502として、またはDeGussa Care & Surface SpecialtiesからAbil Wax 9801、もしくは9814という商品名で購入しうる。
1種以上のビタミンまたは抗酸化剤を、本発明の方法において使用する組成物に組み入れることが望ましい場合がある。存在する場合、推奨範囲は約0.001〜20%、好ましくは約0.005〜15%、より好ましくは約0.010〜10%である。好ましくは、かかるビタミン、ビタミン誘導体および/または抗酸化剤は、一重項酸素の形態のフリーラジカルを捕捉する働きをする。かかるビタミンとしては、トコフェロールもしくはその誘導体、例えば、酢酸トコフェロール、フェルラ酸トコフェロール;アスコルビン酸もしくはその誘導体、例えば、パルミチン酸アスコルビル、リン酸アスコルビルマグネシウム;ビタミンAもしくはその誘導体、例えばパルミチン酸レチニル;またはビタミンD、K、B、もしくはその誘導体を挙げることができる。
本発明の方法において使用する好適な組成物は水溶液またはエマルションの形態であり、かつチコリ酸および少なくとも1種のDNA修復酵素を含有する。
Claims (12)
- 減少した、不規則な、または非同期的なper1遺伝子発現を有する皮膚細胞におけるper1遺伝子発現を増加および/または同期化させるための皮膚処理組成物であって、ムラサキバレンギク(Echinacea purpurea)から得られるチコリ酸、ビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物、及びビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物以外の少なくとも1種のDNA修復酵素を含有する、上記組成物。
- 前記ビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物が発酵したものである、請求項1記載の組成物。
- 前記チコリ酸の含量が、全組成物の0.00001〜10重量%の範囲である、請求項1記載の組成物。
- 前記チコリ酸が、全抽出物の3重量%のチコリ酸の濃度に標準化されたムラサキバレンギク抽出物からのものである、請求項1記載の組成物。
- 前記DNA修復酵素が乳酸桿菌(Lactobacillus)由来のものである、請求項1記載の組成物。
- スキンクリーム、ローション、ファンデーション、口紅、コンシーラー、頬紅、セラム、アイシャドー、クレンザーまたは化粧水の形態である、請求項1記載の組成物。
- 前記乳酸桿菌が発酵したものである、請求項5記載の組成物。
- 発酵した乳酸桿菌がレシチン及び水と混合されている、請求項7記載の組成物。
- ビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物がビフィズス菌溶解物、ビフィズス菌発酵溶解物、又はこれらの混合物である、請求項1記載の組成物。
- 減少した、不規則な、または非同期的なper1遺伝子発現を有する皮膚細胞におけるper1遺伝子発現を増加および/または同期化させるための皮膚処理組成物の製造における、ビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物と組み合わせたムラサキバレンギク(Echinacea purpurea)から抽出されたチコリ酸の使用。
- 皮膚処理組成物が更にDNA修復酵素を含有する、請求項10記載の使用。
- ビフィズス菌由来の不活化細菌溶解物が発酵したものである、請求項11記載の使用。
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JP6366343B2 (ja) * | 2014-04-30 | 2018-08-01 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | 時計遺伝子を指標とした美白素材のスクリーニング方法 |
JP6476878B2 (ja) * | 2015-01-14 | 2019-03-06 | 日油株式会社 | 水性皮膚化粧料 |
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EP2766009A4 (en) | 2015-05-20 |
CA2851180A1 (en) | 2013-04-18 |
EP2766009A1 (en) | 2014-08-20 |
CN103906510A (zh) | 2014-07-02 |
ES2754050T3 (es) | 2020-04-15 |
CA2851180C (en) | 2018-01-09 |
KR20140084137A (ko) | 2014-07-04 |
JP2014532068A (ja) | 2014-12-04 |
KR20170012588A (ko) | 2017-02-02 |
EP2766009B1 (en) | 2019-10-09 |
US20140242010A1 (en) | 2014-08-28 |
WO2013055315A1 (en) | 2013-04-18 |
US20170354629A1 (en) | 2017-12-14 |
KR20180010338A (ko) | 2018-01-30 |
AU2011378801B2 (en) | 2016-05-05 |
AU2011378801A1 (en) | 2014-05-29 |
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