JP5465379B2 - 油性口唇化粧料 - Google Patents
油性口唇化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5465379B2 JP5465379B2 JP2007336610A JP2007336610A JP5465379B2 JP 5465379 B2 JP5465379 B2 JP 5465379B2 JP 2007336610 A JP2007336610 A JP 2007336610A JP 2007336610 A JP2007336610 A JP 2007336610A JP 5465379 B2 JP5465379 B2 JP 5465379B2
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- hydrogen atom
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- oil
- lip cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 7
- ROGIWVXWXZRRMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylbuta-1,3-diene;styrene Chemical compound CC(=C)C=C.C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 ROGIWVXWXZRRMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
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- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 3
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- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N N-(2-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-4-hydroxysphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000002465 nonacosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000010466 nut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073665 octyldodecyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleic acid oleyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940098695 palmitic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N phytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO AERBNCYCJBRYDG-KSZLIROESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940033329 phytosphingosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012165 plant wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001195 polyisoprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N sphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO OTKJDMGTUTTYMP-ZWKOTPCHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N sphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC\C=C\[C@@H](O)[C@@H](N)CO WWUZIQQURGPMPG-KRWOKUGFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940037312 stearamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004274 stearic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000428 triblock copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000002469 tricosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
また、スチレンと、イソプレン又は水添されたイソプレンとの重合割合は、10/90〜50/50、特に20/80〜40/60であるのが、滑らかな感触の点で好ましい。
さらに、ジブロック共重合体は、スクワラン5質量%溶液の25℃における粘度が500〜50,000mPa・s、特に1,000〜35,000mPa・sであるのが、滑らかな感触(伸びの良さ)の点で好ましい。なお、粘度は、B型粘度計(回転数6rpmとローターNo.4)により測定するものである。なお、トリブロック共重合体は、油剤に溶け難くゴム状になるので、製剤化の際、含有しないことが好ましい。
かかる液状油としては、流動パラフィン、流動イソパラフィン、スクワラン等の炭化水素油;ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、オレイン酸オレイル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、リシノレイン酸オクチルドデシル、カカオ油、ヒマシ油、ホホバ油、オリーブ油、アボガド油、ヒマワリ油、マカデミアナッツ油等の油脂類等の脂肪酸エステル油が挙げられる。
Zはメチレン基、メチン基又は酸素原子のいずれかを示す。
R2及びR3は、水素原子、ヒドロキシル基、ヒドロキシメチル基又はアセトキシメチル基を示し、好ましいR2は水素原子又はヒドロキシメチル基であり、好ましいR3は水素原子である。
(I)一般式(2)で表わされる天然又は天然型セラミド類、及びその誘導体(以下、天然型セラミドと記載する。)。
これらのセラミドは天然型(D(−)体)の光学活性体を用いても、非天然型(L(+)体)の光学活性体を用いても、更に天然型と非天然型の混合物を用いてもよい。上記化合物の相対立体配置は、天然型の立体配置のものでも、それ以外の非天然型の立体配置のものでも良く、また、これらの混合物によるものでもよい。特にCERAMIDE1、CERAMIDE2、CERAMIDE3、CERAMIDE5、CERAMIDE6IIの化合物(以上、INCI、8th Edition)及び次式で表わされるものが好ましい。
このような天然型セラミドの市販のものとしては、Ceramide I、Ceramide III、Ceramide IIIA、Ceramide IIIB、Ceramide IIIC、Ceramide VI(以上、コスモファーム社)、Ceramide TIC-001(高砂香料社)、CERAMIDE II(Quest International社)、DS-Ceramide VI、DS-CLA-Phytoceramide、C6-Phytoceramide、DS-ceramide Y3S(以上、DOOSAN社)、CERAMIDE2(セダーマ社)が挙げられる。
なお、本発明の油性口唇化粧料は、塗布時の感触を良くするため、実質的に水を含有しないことが好ましい。実質的に水を含有しないとは、原料に自然に含まれている水以外に、積極的に水を添加しないことを意味する。
窒素下シクロヘキサン中、30℃で、103質量部のスチレンに0.38質量部のn−BuLiを開始剤として加えて重合し(スチレン部)、更にイソプレン150質量部を加える。最後に2−プロパノールを添加して重合を停止し、精製した。得られたジブロック重合体は、乾燥後、粉末にした。数平均分子量50万で、スチレン:イソプレン=4:6のものが得られた。
上記で得られたジブロック重合体2をジオキサンに溶解し、室温、水素雰囲気下、10%Pd/Cを加え、水添した。得られた重合体は精製し、乾燥後、粉末にした。
表1に示す組成の口紅を製造し、滑り、糸曳き及び滑らかさを評価した。結果を表1に併せて示す。
なお、実施例1〜6は参考例であり、本発明の範囲に含まれないものである。
基剤原料(色材以外)を加熱融解して均一に混合した。次に、これに色材原料を加えて加熱状態でディスパーザーにて均一に分散させ、脱泡した後型に流し込んで成型し、口紅を得た。
(1)滑り:
ウレタン製の人工皮革に口紅を塗布し、表面性試験機(トライポギア Type 32)を用いて動摩擦係数を測定した。
a)滑り評価(直後);
◎;動摩擦係数 0.2未満。
○;動摩擦係数 0.2以上0.3未満。
△;動摩擦係数 0.3以上0.4未満。
×;動摩擦係数 0.4以上。
◎;動摩擦係数 0.4未満。
○;動摩擦係数 0.4以上0.5未満。
△;動摩擦係数 0.5以上0.6未満。
×;動摩擦係数 0.6以上。
口紅を指の間でこねた時に、指の間で糸が切れるかどうかを評価した。
◎;全く糸を曳かない。
○;角が立つが直ぐ切れる。
△;時間が掛かるが糸は切れる。
×;糸が切れない。
専門パネラーにより、口紅を使用したときの滑らかさを官能評価した。
a)滑らかさ(直後);
◎;10名中8名以上が良好と評価した。
○;10名中6〜7名が良好と評価した。
△;10名中4〜5名が良好と評価した。
×;10名中3名以下が良好と評価した。
◎;10名中8名以上が良好と評価した。
○;10名中6〜7名が良好と評価した。
△;10名中4〜5名が良好と評価した。
×;10名中3名以下が良好と評価した。
Claims (3)
- (A)数平均分子量10万〜300万の(スチレン-イソプレン)ジブロック共重合体又は水添(スチレン-イソプレン)ジブロック共重合体 1〜7質量%、
(B)セラミド類から選ばれる油溶性成分 0.5〜5質量%、
(C)セレシン及びマイクロクリスタリンワックスから選ばれる固形状分岐炭化水素油 1〜8質量%
を含有する油性口唇化粧料。 - ジブロック共重合体が、スクワラン中5質量%で、80℃に加熱したときに、均一溶解するものである請求項1記載の油性口唇化粧料。
- 炭化水素油及びエステル油から選ばれる液状油を含有する請求項1又は2記載の油性口唇化粧料。
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