JP4799012B2 - Oily solid cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic. In particular, the present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic composition that is soft and smooth when applied, has excellent adhesion after application, has a high makeup sustaining effect such as gloss and moisture, and has excellent temperature stability.

  Conventionally, oily solid stick cosmetics such as lipsticks are usually used in which powder is dispersed in a mixed system of waxes that are solid at room temperature and liquid oil. And in order to improve shape retention and stability over time, the amount of hydrocarbon wax was increased as a solidifying agent to increase the strength, but by adding multiple solidifying agents, spreading, smoothness, gloss during application, etc. In some cases, the feeling of use decreased.

  In contrast, plant solid waxes (= plant waxes) that harden and harden in a small amount are blended to increase the folding strength, and by increasing the blending ratio of liquid oil, smoothness is achieved. A method of giving a feeling of use has also been made (for example, see Patent Document 1).

  However, if the blending ratio of liquid oil to waxes increases, the makeup film formed becomes soft, the adhesion to the lips is reduced, the lips are blotted into vertical wrinkles, etc., and the makeup persistence is inferior. There was a case. Furthermore, under high temperature conditions, the wax could not hold the liquid oil, causing phenomena such as detachment, separation, and sweating, and the stability over time sometimes deteriorated.

JP 2004-224707 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, has a soft and smooth usability when applied, has excellent adhesion after application, has a high makeup sustaining effect such as gloss and moisture, and has excellent temperature stability. The object is to provide solid cosmetics.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides (a) 7-30 % by mass of a hydrocarbon wax containing polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300-700 and microcrystalline wax having a molecular weight of 580-700 as essential components. Polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 is contained at a ratio of 15 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to component (a) 100 . In addition, (a) Vaseline is not included in the component ], and (b) IOB in the organic conceptual diagram is 0 to 0.2, and the oil content is liquid to semisolid at 25 ° C. 40 to 80% by mass [provided that ( b) polybutene having an oil content of 0 in the IOB as an essential component] , and the content of the plant wax is 1.0% by mass or less, and the total composition at 37 ° C. An oil-based solid cosmetic having a hardness of 0 to 10 is provided.

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetics which do not contain a plant-type wax.

The present invention, (a) component, and microcrystalline wax polyethylene wax scan and molecular weight from 580 to 700 of molecular weight 300 to 700, chosen ceresin wax, paraffin wax scan, full Issha-Tropsch wax, from the Sasol wax The oily solid cosmetic composition comprising one or more selected from the above.

  Moreover, this invention is 30-100 (mass ratio) in a total amount with respect to (a) component 100 in the (a) component, the polyethylene wax of molecular weight 300-700 and the microcrystalline wax of molecular weight 580-700. And the above-mentioned oil-based solid cosmetic composition comprising polyethylene wax (molecular weight 300 to 700): microcrystalline wax (molecular weight 580 to 700) = 4: 1 to 1: 3 (mass ratio). .

Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetics containing the oil component whose IOB is 0 in the ratio of 43 mass% or more with respect to (b) component.
The present invention, component (b), and polybutene, Sukuwara down, preparative Riisosutearin glyceryl, petrolatum, comprising at least and one or more selected from among liquid paraffin, the oily solid cosmetic composition provide.

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetics which contain polybutene in the ratio of 25-80 (mass ratio) with respect to (b) component 100 in (b) component.

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetic which is (a) component: (b) component = 1: 8-2: 1 (mass ratio).

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetics whose hardness of the whole composition in 37 degreeC is 0-7.

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-based solid cosmetics which are stick-shaped solid cosmetics with which the container which has a ratchet type extrusion mechanism was filled.

  According to the present invention, an oil-based solid cosmetic having a soft and smooth usability upon application, excellent adhesion (fitness) after application, high makeup sustaining effect such as gloss and moisture, and excellent temperature stability. can get.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The hydrocarbon-based wax as the component (a) used in the present invention includes a polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 as an essential component. In addition, for example, ceresin wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, Examples include sazol wax. Polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 is contained at a ratio of 15 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to component (a) 100. By blending a polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700, it is excellent in solidifying power and solubility in liquid oil. When a polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of less than 300 is used, the solidification power is poor. On the other hand, when the molecular weight exceeds 700, the melting point becomes high and it is difficult to dissolve in a liquid oil. It is preferable not to use wax together.

  In the present invention, in particular, from the viewpoint of stability at high temperature, in addition to polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700, microcrystalline wax having a molecular weight of 580 to 700 is preferably used. The total amount is preferably 30 to 100 (mass ratio). Further, polyethylene wax (molecular weight 300 to 700): microcrystalline wax (molecular weight 580 to 700) = 4: 1 to 1: 3 (mass ratio) is preferably used. As the component (a), one type or two or more types are used.

  (A) A component is mix | blended 7-30 mass% with respect to oil-based solid cosmetics whole quantity. If it is less than 7% by mass, when used as a lipstick cosmetic, the feeling of fit after application on the lips is reduced, bleeding of the lips into the vertical wrinkles, etc., resulting in poor makeup persistence. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30% by mass, the spread is heavy and the gloss decreases, which is not preferable.

  The oil component (b) used in the present invention has an IOB in the organic conceptual diagram of 0 to 0.2, and is liquid to semisolid at 25 ° C. An oil component having an IOB of more than 0.2 is not preferable because the occlusion is reduced and the moisturizing effect is lowered.

The organic conceptual diagram was proposed by Satoshi Fujita, and the details are "Pharmaceutical Bulletin", vol.2, 2, pp.163-173 (1954), "Chemical domain" vol.11, 10, pp.719-725 (1957), “Fragrance Journal”, vol.50, pp.79-82 (1981). That is, methane (CH ₄ ) is assumed as the root of all organic compounds, and all other compounds are regarded as derivatives of methane, and certain numbers are set for the carbon number, substituent, transformation part, ring, etc. The score is added to obtain an organic value and an inorganic value, and these values are plotted on a diagram with the organic value on the X axis and the inorganic value on the Y axis. This organic conceptual diagram is also shown in “Organic Conceptual Diagram-Basics and Applications” (by Yoshio Koda, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).

The IOB in the organic conceptual diagram refers to the ratio of the inorganic value (IV) to the organic value (OV) in the organic conceptual diagram, that is, “inorganic value (IV) / organic value (OV)”.
Examples of the component (b) include hydrocarbon oils such as polybutene, squalane, liquid paraffin, petrolatum; glyceryl triisostearate, cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, trimethylolpropane. Examples include ester oils such as triisostearate; oils and fats such as olive oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, and lanolin. Among these, from the standpoint of makeup lasting effect, squalane (IOB = 0), polybutene (IOB = 0), petrolatum (IOB = 0), glyceryl triisostearate (IOB = 0.18), liquid paraffin (IOB = 0), etc. Is preferably used. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to contain polybutene in a proportion of 25 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to component (b) 100. As the component (b), one type or two or more types are used.

  (B) 40-80 mass% component is mix | blended with respect to oil-based solid cosmetics whole quantity. If it is less than 40% by mass, smoothness is lacking. On the other hand, if it exceeds 80% by mass, the solidification power is lost and it is difficult to maintain the shape.

  Moreover, in this invention, it is adhesiveness, glossiness to mix | blend (a) component: (b) component in the ratio of 1: 8-2: 1 (mass ratio), More preferably, 1: 8-1: 3. It is preferable from the viewpoint of the effect of maintaining makeup such as moisture.

  When the plant-based wax is included in the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, the blending amount needs to be 1.0% by mass or less, and preferably does not include the plant-based wax. When plant-based wax is blended, it is difficult to obtain a feeling of fit and moisturization, and this is not preferable in terms of causing bleeding at the time of use. In the present specification, the plant-based wax means vegetable solid waxes, which are wax esters of higher fatty acids derived from plants and higher alcohols. Examples of plant waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and the like, but are not limited to these examples.

  In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, the hardness of the entire composition at 37 ° C. is 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 7. When the hardness exceeds 10, the smoothness is lost and the moisture feeling is lowered, which is not preferable. In the present invention, “hardness” refers to a resistance value expressed by a 100 scale value when a needle having a diameter of 3 mm at a weight of 800 g is loaded at 37 ° C. using a spring balance type card meter. It shows that it is so hard that a value is large.

  In the oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, components that can be usually blended with oil-based solid cosmetics can be optionally blended within a range that does not impair the objects and effects of the present invention. Examples of such components include powders, coloring materials, acrylic resins, silicone resins, polyvinylpyrrolidone and other resins, proteins or protein degradation products such as soybean protein, gelatin, collagen, silk fibroin, and elastin, antioxidants, Examples include ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet shielding agents, surfactants, preservatives, humectants, drugs, dyes, and fragrances, but are not limited to these examples.

  As said powder, if it is normally used for cosmetics, it can be used without particular limitation, for example, talc, kaolin, sericite (sericite), muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, Smite, biotite, lithia mica, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, bentonite, Inorganic powders such as barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorine apatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, boron nitride, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, polyamide resin powder, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polyester Tellurium powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, copolymer resin powder of styrene and acrylic acid, silicone resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, organic powder such as cellulose powder, various pigments, etc. Is mentioned.

  The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably filled in a container having a ratchet type extrusion mechanism and used as a stick-shaped solid cosmetic. The ratchet-type push-out mechanism is configured to rotate in only one direction in combination with a gear having sawtooth teeth and a claw for preventing reverse rotation.

  Examples of the oil-based solid cosmetics of the present invention include lipsticks, lip balms, foundations, pencil-type cosmetics, hair sticks and the like, but are not limited to these examples.

  The oil-based solid cosmetic of the present invention, in particular, can achieve both smoothness and fit without softening without much increase in hardness as compared with conventional oil-based solid cosmetics. There is an excellent effect that it is difficult.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, all the amounts are mass%.

First, the evaluation method performed in the present example will be described.
≪Evaluation method≫

[hardness]
Using a spring balance type card meter, the resistance value of a sample when a needle having a diameter of 3 mm at a weight of 800 g is introduced at 37 ° C. is indicated by a value of 100 scales, and the larger the value, the harder it is.

[Glossiness]
A gloss meter VG-2000 (Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.) was used, a sample was applied to artificial leather, and the 60 ° C. specular gloss was measured.

[50 ° C temperature stability (confirmation of melting)]
After filling the ratchet type extrusion container, this container was placed horizontally and left in a 50 ° C. atmosphere for a whole day and night, and the liquid dripping state was confirmed. Then, the case of being stable was evaluated as ◯, the case of being neither could be evaluated as △, and the case of being unstable was evaluated as ×.

[Sweating stability]
10 ml ointment was filled and stored in a 50 ° C. atmosphere for 15 to 60 minutes, and the state of liquid droplets coming out on the surface of the solid product was confirmed and evaluated. The case where no liquid droplets were observed was evaluated as ◯, the case where liquid droplets were slightly recognized was evaluated as △, and the case where many droplets were clearly recognized was evaluated as ×.

[Softening point]
Using a ball ring method measuring instrument (ball weight 3.5 ± 0.1 g), pour into the ring, place the ball on the center of the sample left at room temperature for 1 hour, and load into a beaker containing water. The temperature was raised at a rate of 2 degrees per minute, and the temperature when the ball dropped on the convection plate was measured.

[Looseness, smoothness, fit, lasting moistness, no blur, gloss]
(5) Smoothness, (3) Fit feeling, (4) Sustained moistness (evaluated in a state 2 hours after application) , (5) No blurring, (5) Glossiness was evaluated on a 5-level basis (overall evaluation) by sensuality, and the average value was evaluated.

<Evaluation criteria>
5: Very good 4: Good 3: Normal 2: Bad 1: Very bad (evaluation)
A: Evaluation value (average value) 4.5 or more and 5.0
○: Evaluation value (average value) 3.5 or more and less than 4.5 ○ △: Evaluation value (average value) 2.5 or more and less than 3.5 Δ: Evaluation value (average value) 1.5 or more and less than 2.5 × : Evaluation value (average value) 1.0 or more and less than 1.5

(Samples 1-6, Samples 7-12)
Samples having the composition shown in Tables 1 and 2 below are prepared, and according to the above evaluation method and evaluation criteria, hardness, glossiness, 50 ° C temperature stability (confirmation of melting), sweating stability, softening point (° C), Evaluation was made on the spread, smoothness, fit, persistence of moistness, lack of blur and gloss. The results are shown in Tables 1-2. In Tables 1 and 2, “polyethylene wax ^(*) ” used was one having a molecular weight of 500, and “microcrystalline wax ^(**) ” used was “microcrystalline wax P” (manufactured by Nikko Rica Co., Ltd.). .

From the results of Table 1, Samples 1 to 4 having the constituent requirements of the present invention obtained good evaluation results. Among them, the samples 2 to 4 containing polybutene as the component (b) at a ratio of 25 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to the component 100 (b) exhibited particularly excellent effects. In addition, the effects of the present invention were not obtained in Samples 5 and 6 in which both the component (a) and the component (b) were outside the scope of the present invention.

  Also, from the comparison of the results in Tables 1 and 2, it can be seen that better results are obtained when polybutene is included as the component (b).

  Further formulation examples are shown below.

[Formulation Example 1 (oil-based eye shadow cosmetic)]
(Mixed component) (Mixed amount)
Ceresin wax 3
Polyethylene wax (molecular weight 500) 6
Microcrystalline wax 3
Dimerlinoleic acid / phytosterol / behenyl alcohol ester 10
Vaseline 10
Liquid paraffin 10
Polybutene 10
Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 2
Titanium oxide 3
Mica titanium 15
Mica 20
Ultramarine Blue 2
Black iron oxide 1
Perfume appropriate amount (Manufacturing method)
Each component was heated to 85 ° C., stirred, mixed and degassed, then filled into a ratchet-type extrusion container and cooled to 5 ° C. to obtain an oily eyeshadow cosmetic.

[Prescription Example 2 (Correction cosmetic for partial use)]
(Mixed component) (Mixed amount)
Microcrystalline wax 6
Polyethylene wax (average molecular weight 500) 7
Paraffin wax 2
Dimerlinoleic acid, phytosterol, behenyl alcohol ester 5
Vaseline 10
Squalane 15
Methylphenylpolysiloxane 10
Polybutene 10
Sorbitan sesquioleate 1
Kaolin 5
Titanium dioxide 20
Black iron oxide 0.3
Red iron oxide 2
Yellow iron oxide 6
Perfume appropriate amount (manufacturing)
Each component was heated to 85 ° C., stirred, mixed and degassed, then filled into a ratchet-type extruded stick container and cooled to 5 ° C. to obtain a lipstick cosmetic.

[Prescription Example 3 (lipstick cosmetic)]
(Mixed component) (Mixed amount)
Microcrystalline wax 6
Polyethylene wax (average molecular weight 500) 7
Paraffin wax 3
Dimerlinoleic acid, phytosterol, behenyl alcohol ester 20
Vaseline 10
Squalane 26
Methylphenylpolysiloxane 4
Polybutene 20
Red No. 201 1
Red No. 202 0.2
Red iron oxide 1
Yellow iron oxide 1
Perfume appropriate amount (manufacturing)
Each component was heated to 85 ° C., stirred, mixed and degassed, then filled into a ratchet-type extruded stick container and cooled to 5 ° C. to obtain a lipstick cosmetic.

[Formulation Example 4 (lip gloss cosmetic)]
(Mixed component) (Mixed amount)
Polyethylene wax (average molecular weight 500) 7
Microcrystalline wax 13
Dimerlinoleic acid, phytosterol, behenyl alcohol ester 20
Dimer linoleic acid, phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol ester
10
Diisostearyl malate 15
Polybutene 20
Liquid paraffin 3
Polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder 3
Silicone-coated red iron oxide 3
Bengala coated mica titanium 2
Polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymer 1
1,3 Butylene glycol 3
Paraben appropriate amount (manufacturing)
The whole was stirred and mixed and degassed, then filled into a ratchet-type extrusion container, cooled to 5 ° C., and filled into a ratchet-type extrusion container to obtain a lip gloss cosmetic.

Claims (10)

(A) 7 to 30% by mass of a hydrocarbon wax containing polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 and microcrystalline wax having a molecular weight of 580 to 700 as essential components [However, the polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 is (a) It is contained at a ratio of 15 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to component 100 . In addition, (a) Vaseline is not included in the component ], and (b) IOB in the organic conceptual diagram is 0 to 0.2, and the oil content is liquid to semisolid at 25 ° C. 40 to 80% by mass [provided that ( b) polybutene having an oil content of 0 in the IOB as an essential component] , and the content of the plant wax is 1.0% by mass or less, and the total composition at 37 ° C. Oil-based solid cosmetics having a hardness of 0 to 10.   The oil-based solid cosmetic according to claim 1, which does not contain plant wax. Component (a), and microcrystalline wax polyethylene wax scan and molecular weight from 580 to 700 of molecular weight 300-700, ceresin wax, paraffin wax scan, full Issha-Tropsch wax, one member selected from the group consisting of Sasol wax or 2 The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, comprising at least a seed.   The component (a) contains a polyethylene wax having a molecular weight of 300 to 700 and a microcrystalline wax having a molecular weight of 580 to 700 in a ratio of 30 to 100 (mass ratio) in total with respect to the component 100. The oily property according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein polyethylene wax (molecular weight: 300 to 700): microcrystalline wax (molecular weight: 580 to 700) = 4: 1 to 1: 3 (mass ratio). Solid cosmetics. The oily solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising an oil component having an IOB of 0 at a ratio of 43 mass% or more with respect to the component (b). (B) component, polybutene and, Sukuwara down, preparative Riisosutearin glyceryl, vaseline, one member selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin or at least a two or more, according to claim 1-5, wherein the oily solid cosmetic composition . The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6 , wherein the (b) component contains polybutene at a ratio of 25 to 80 (mass ratio) with respect to the component 100 (b). The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7 , wherein (a) component: (b) component = 1: 8 to 2: 1 (mass ratio). The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 8 , wherein the whole composition has a hardness of 0 to 7 at 37 ° C. The oil-based solid cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 9 , which is a stick-shaped solid cosmetic filled in a container having a ratchet type extrusion mechanism.