JP4684480B2 - Inorganic powder composition and cosmetics using the same - Google Patents

Inorganic powder composition and cosmetics using the same Download PDF

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JP4684480B2
JP4684480B2 JP2001218386A JP2001218386A JP4684480B2 JP 4684480 B2 JP4684480 B2 JP 4684480B2 JP 2001218386 A JP2001218386 A JP 2001218386A JP 2001218386 A JP2001218386 A JP 2001218386A JP 4684480 B2 JP4684480 B2 JP 4684480B2
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skin
light component
weight
powder composition
inorganic powder
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JP2003034617A (en
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明大 岡田
保 森
太郎 大西
博和 田中
巧 宮崎
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JGC Catalysts and Chemicals Ltd
Naris Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Catalysts and Chemicals Industries Co Ltd
Naris Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【産業上の利用分野】
本発明は、無機粉体組成物とその化粧料用途に関し、さらに詳しくは加齢による皮膚の特有な質感を補正し、自然な仕上がりが得られ実年齢より若く見せる作用を有する無機粉体組成物とそれを含有する化粧料に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
女性が肌を若々しくみせたいという願いは普遍的である。この様な欲求を満たすために様々な化粧料が開発されてきた。
人が肌の若さを視覚的に評価する場合、「色」、「形態」、及び「質感」の視点から総合的に判断している。
「色」及び「形態」については、加齢に伴う黄みの増加、赤みの減少、明度の減少及びシワやたるみの増加が主観的にも客観的にも明らかにされ、分光反射率の測定や皮膚レプリカの画像解析など十分に確立された系から、肌の若さに対する科学的な理論や評価法を構築し、製品開発が為されている(1996−2、FRAGRANCE JOURNAL、p35〜40、1998-4、FRAGRANCE JOURNAL、p27〜35等)。
【0003】
「質感」については、「色」や「形態」ほど多くの知見は得られていない。1999、J.Soc.Cosmet.Chem.Jpn.、Vol.33、No.2、p154〜162によると、質感の測定は一般的には光学的になされることが多く、物体の表面反射光成分の強弱で評価され、その表面反射光成分には表面の凹凸情報や光沢情報が含まれている。
例えば、角層の半透明性に由来する光学効果に着目し、異なる2方向(85度と40度)からの照射光に対する分光反射率を複数測定し、得られたスペクトルパターンを相互比較する評価法から粉体組成物を選別し、皮膚の質感を与える化粧料を提供している(特開平10-139629号公報等)。また、皮膚の表面反射光成分のフーリエ解析による毛穴等の凹凸情報の定量化を確立し、化粧料製品開発に資する可能性を提示している(1993、日本写真学会誌、56巻、4号、p264〜269等)。
【0004】
しかし、これらの測定法及び評価法を実施するためには、高額な測定・解析機器の購入、複雑で手間の掛かる手順、専門的な知識などが要求され、充分な汎用性、利便性までには至っていない。特に、皮膚の「質感」においては、簡易な評価法が未充足であり、それらに基づく製品開発もあまり為され得ていないのが現状である。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明はこのような状況を踏まえて為されたものであり、人が肌の若さを視覚的に評価する場合の主因子である皮膚の質感を客観的かつ簡易な方法で評価し、皮膚を若く見せる組成物やそれを含む化粧料を提供することにある。
【0006】
【課題を解決するための手段】
このような状況に鑑みて、本発明者等は人の皮膚が若くみえる光学的メカニズムを解明すべく鋭意研究を重ねた結果、人の皮膚の質感が若くみえる大きな要素の一つに、皮膚の表面反射光成分、特に表面反射光成分を得るための光源入射角とそれに対する受光角の組み合わせに光学的要素が存在することを見出した。
皮膚の凹凸情報に関して、加齢に伴い、皮膚真皮における構造線維の変化や崩壊、皮下脂肪の厚さの減少により、皮膚が弛緩し、大小様々なしわが目立ち、毛穴が大きく縦に垂れてくるなどの状態が見られる。
【0007】
加齢に伴い、皮丘の不均一化、面積増加、ふっくら感の減少が生じ、細胞レベルでも皮膚の老化角質細胞は偏平化を来す。そのため、皮膚の光沢に関しては、皮脂量が減少しているにもかかわらず、視覚的に皮膚表面上では光沢が顕著にみられ、素肌において、いわゆる、皮膚のテカリが観察される。若い世代の皮膚においても、光沢が観察されるが、均一で面積の小さいふっくらした皮丘や適度な透明性のある角層であるため半透明性をもった美しい光沢が観察される。つまり、同じ光学現象を観察していても、両者間においては皮膚の光沢感の傾向は異なり、その差異が、中高年齢の場合は、所謂、「テカリ」と、若い年齢の場合は、「つや」と表現されている。
【0008】
本発明者等は、皮膚の質感を照射光による皮膚表面反射光成分から検討し、特に、若い世代の「つや」と中高年の「テカリ」の差異について、照射光の入射角と表面反射光成分の受光角とが同じ組み合わせの場合でも、若い皮膚と中高年の皮膚とではその反射光成分の強度が異なることを見出した。さらには、光源の入射角と受光角の組み合わせを変化させ皮膚の表面反射光成分を多面的に観察することから、ある特異的な入射角と受光角における表面反射光成分が若くて美しく見えることに大きく寄与することを見出した。
【0009】
すなわち、本発明の無機粉体組成物は、被験者の皮膚評価部位の前記粉体組成物塗布時の表面反射光成分を(A)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(B)とした場合、照射光の入射角が皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(B)−(A)>0であることを特徴とする。
前記表面反射光成分の検出には、(1)被験者の皮膚評価部位に対して前記皮膚評価部位に照明光を一方向から拡散照射し、偏光板が装着された銀塩カメラ又は電子的カメラどちらかの撮影装置を用いて皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真及び皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれ撮影する工程、(2)前記照明光の入射角は前記皮膚表面に対して0〜80度、前記表面反射光成分の受光角は前記皮膚表面に対して反射方向15〜80度の範囲で、入射角及び受光角のいずれか1つ以上を異なる少なくとも2方向以上設定する工程、(3)前記両撮影写真のデジタル化、差分処理により皮膚の表面反射光成分画像を得る工程、ならびに(4)前記表面反射光成分画像を多階調に輝度変換し、増幅する工程、を含んで成る方法により得る。
【0010】
また、合わせて透明板に一様に塗布した粉体の透明性について透過度及びその透過光の拡散度合いが高ければ、いっそう若くて美しくみせる好適な粉体組成物を提供できることを見出した。
すなわち、本発明の無機紛体組成物は、全光線透過率が80%以上、及びヘーズが70%以上であることを特徴とする。
前記無機粉体組成物は、好ましくは、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、シリカの順で被覆され、その重量比がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=55〜75:3〜7:12〜24:5〜15重量%であること、又は、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、球状シリカ、シリカの順で被覆され、その重量比がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:球状シリカ:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:8〜20:10〜24:5〜15重量%であること、又は、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化アルミニウム、シリカの順で被覆され、タルク:酸化チタン:酸化ジルコニウム:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:5〜15:12〜24:5〜15重量%である。
【0011】
本発明に用いるタルクとしては、平均粒子径が2〜20μmで厚みが0.05〜1μmであることが好ましい。無機酸化物の被覆方法は、前記無機酸化物などの前駆物質の金属塩を加水分解する方法や、同様の金属アルコキシドをアルコール溶液中で加水分解する方法など、従来から無機酸化物の被覆方法として知られている方法であれば特に制限はない。例えば鱗片状基材を水中に分散させた物に四塩化チタンなどの金属塩を添加し、アルカリ雰囲気で加水分解し、鱗片状基材表面に金属塩加水分解物を析出させ所定の厚みの酸化チタン被覆層を得る方法などが挙げられる。また、シリカを被覆する場合には、鱗片状基材の分散液にアルカリ金属ケイ酸塩水溶液を添加し、鱗片状基材表面にケイ酸の重合物を付着させることにより、所定の厚みのシリカ被覆層を得る方法が挙げられる。
【0012】
以上のように、基材に対する金属酸化物の被覆を順次おこない目的とする前記無機粉体組成物を得る。
更に、本発明の化粧料は、被験者の皮膚評価部位の前記化粧料塗布時の表面反射光成分を(A)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(B)とした場合、照射光の入射角が皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(B)−(A)>0であることを特徴とする。
【0013】
前記表面反射光成分の検出には、(1)被験者の皮膚評価部位に対して前記皮膚評価部位に照明光を一方向から拡散照射し、偏光板が装着された銀塩カメラ又は電子的カメラどちらかの撮影装置を用いて皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真及び皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれ撮影する工程、(2)前記照明光の入射角は前記皮膚表面に対して0〜80度、前記表面反射光成分の受光角は前記皮膚表面に対して反射方向15〜80度の範囲で、入射角及び受光角のいずれか1つ以上を異なる少なくとも2方向以上設定する工程、(3)前記両撮影写真のデジタル化、差分処理により皮膚の表面反射光成分画像を得る工程、ならびに(4)前記表面反射光成分画像を多階調に輝度変換し、増幅する工程、を含んで成る方法により得る。
【0014】
また、合わせて透明板に一様に塗布した化粧料の透明性について透過度及びその透過光の拡散度合いが高ければ、いっそう若くて美しくみせる好適な化粧料を提供できることを見出した。
すなわち、本発明の化粧料は、全光線透過率が75%以上、及びヘーズが65%以上であることを特徴とする。
前記化粧料は、好ましくは本発明の前記無機粉体組成物を0.1〜90%含有する。
【0015】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下に本発明の実施形態を説明する。
本発明の無機粉体組成物は、被験者の皮膚評価部位の前記粉体組成物塗布時の表面反射光成分を(A)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(B)とした場合、照射光の入射角が皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(B)−(A)>0であり、及び/又は、前記粉体組成物の全光線透過率が80%以上、及びヘーズが70%以上であることを特徴とし、化粧料にも好適である。
【0016】
皮膚表面反射光成分に関する評価法の最も好ましい形態は、次に示す手順に従って行われる。
(1)皮膚表面に、拡散光を一方向から照射し、偏光板の装着された銀塩カメラ又は電子的カメラ何れかの撮影装置にて前記皮膚表面を複数の受光角度で撮影する。ここで撮影する皮膚表面の部位は特に限定されないが、顔全体又は人の頬の撮影が適切な評価結果が得られることから好ましい。受光角度は、前記皮膚表面に対して前記照射光の入射方向と反対方向に0〜80度、より好ましくは20〜80度、更に好ましくは40〜70度である。その際、偏光板の回転により皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真、並びに皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれ撮影する。拡散光源は特に限定されないが、好ましくは白色白熱光である。また、撮影装置は得られる写真が銀塩カメラあるいは電子的カメラの何れかを活用してもよいが、好ましくはCCDカメラ又は非CCDカメラを撮像部とするデジタルカメラである。デジタルカメラでは、写真の解析手順を短絡化でき、また、より適切な評価結果が得られる。本発明者等はデジタルカメラ C-2500L(OLYMPUS社製)を用いた。
【0017】
(2) 前記(1)の方向とは異なる角度で前記拡散光を照射し、同様に皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真、並びに皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれ(1)と同様に受光角度を変化させ複数撮影する。これらの撮影は、複数回、各々異なる角度の拡散光照射で行う。このとき、(1)と(2)の照射する光の皮膚表面に対する入射角は、0〜80度、より好ましくは20〜80度、更に好ましくは20〜70度である。
【0018】
(3) 前記(1)の前記皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真並びに皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれデジタル変換した後、両者の差分処理により表面反射光成分画像を得る。同様に(2)の前記皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真並びに皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真についても同様に行い表面反射光成分画像を得る。ここで、写真のデジタル変換にはデジタル変換可能ならば行う機器は限定されない。例えば、デジタルカメラを用いて当該手順どおりに実施できる。
【0019】
(4) 前記表面反射光成分画像を256階調の輝度値(L*値)に変換し、輝度レベルを増幅した。変換する際の階調は、16、256、32,768などでも構わないが、16,777,216のごとく大きな階調がより好ましい。その輝度値が皮膚の質感の指標となる。このとき増幅の倍率は1〜5、より好ましくは1.5〜4、更に好ましくは2〜3.5である。また、(3)の差分処理、並びに(4)の輝度変換及び増幅処理には各処理が可能ならば特に限定されないが、例えば画像編集ソフトであるPhotoshop 3.0J(Adobe社製)を用いて処理することができる。ここで、皮膚の表面反射光成分を検出する方法として前記(1)〜(4)の手順を行ったが、表面反射光成分の検出が可能であるなら特に限定されない。
【0020】
(5) かくして得られた様々な組み合わせをもつ皮膚の表面反射光成分の傾向から皮膚の質感を評価する。特に、照明光の皮膚表面に対する入射角が20〜70度で、受光角度が入射方向と反対方向の40〜70度で測定した表面反射光成分について質感の評価を行うのがより好ましい。
図1及び図2は、光源の入射角は顔面正面に対して0、22.5、45、67.5度のそれぞれで照射し、撮影装置の受光角は前記顔面表面に対して反射方向に正の角度を表すとし、0、22.5、45、67.5度とし、前記(1)〜(4)の手順により測定した場合の顔の表面反射光成分である。図1は20歳女性の顔全体の質感の傾向を示し、図2は48歳女性の顔の質感の傾向を示す。横軸は照射光の顔面表面に対する入射角で67.5、45、22.5、0度と順に示し、縦軸は撮影装置の受光角で顔面表面に対する反射方向を正とし、67.5、45、22.5、0度と順に示す。輝度変換後の増幅は3倍である。輝度が高く、より白く見える部分ほど光沢があることを示す。
【0021】
図1と図2を比較した場合、67.5度入射67.5度受光、45度入射67.5度受光、22.5度入射67.5度受光、45度入射45度受光各々にて、加齢に伴い輝度が高く、白く見える部分が多く観察される。このことから、加齢に伴い特異的なこれら入射角受光角の組み合わせにおいて顕著な表面反射が見受けられ、この表面反射を抑制し若い女性と同等に近づければ、皮膚を若く見せる仕上がりになることが判る。したがって、得られた表面反射光成分の傾向を比較すれば無機粉体組成物や化粧料の若く見せる程度を評価することができる。
【0022】
合わせて、粉体組成物自身の評価については、無色の透明板に塗布乾燥して得られる塗膜中の無機粉体組成物の含有量が25重量%となるようクリアラッカーにて分散させ、膜厚5μmとなる塗膜試料の全光線透過率及びヘーズの測定にて行う。
粉体組成物を透明板に一様な塗膜を貼る方法は、塗膜厚が5μm、塗膜中の粉体含有率が25重量%であるなら特に限定されない。例えば、有機溶剤にニトロセルロースが30%含まれたクリアラッカー SPIRIT VARNISH(株式会社遠藤化学工業所)にて分散させ、更に、分散性を高めるため、超音波ホモジナイザー US−300T(株式会社日本精機製作所)にかけ、透明板に一様に塗布する方法により実施できる。
【0023】
透明板は無色で粉体自身の全光線透過率及びヘーズに多大な影響を及ぼさなければ特に限定されないが、より好ましくはポリエチレン、ポリプロピレン、ポリ塩化ビニル、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリエステル等の透明性が高く耐溶剤性のある材質から形成された透明フィルムである。例えば、材質がポリエステルである厚さ0.1mmのOHPフィルム(プラス株式会社製)を使用することができる。
【0024】
全光線透過率及びヘーズの測定は JIS K 7105又はJIS K 7136に規定される測定法に準拠する機器を用いる以外は特に限定されない。
例えば、ヘーズコンピューター HZ-2(スガ試験機株式会社製)を用いて測定することができる。
本発明の無機粉体組成物は、好ましくは、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、シリカの順で被覆され、その重量割合がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=55〜75:3〜7:12〜24:5〜15重量%であること、又は、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、球状シリカ、シリカの順で被覆され、その重量割合がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:球状シリカ:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:8〜20:10〜24:5〜15重量%であること、又は、タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化アルミニウム、シリカの順で被覆され、タルク:酸化チタン:酸化ジルコニウム:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:5〜15:12〜24:5〜15重量%である。また、化粧料への好適に配合するため、粉体表面の疎水処理を行うことが好ましい。
【0025】
疎水化処理は、疎水化処理剤を用いて行われ、疎水化処理剤としては、シリコーン油、脂肪族金属塩、アルキルリン酸、アルキルリン酸のアルカリ金属塩又はアミン塩、N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸、パーフルオロアルキル基を有するフッ素化合物などが挙げられる。
シリコーン油としては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば特に制限されず、例えば、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、ジメチルポリシロキサン、環状ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、環状メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、ポリエーテル変性シリコーン、アルキル変性シリコーン、メチルポリシロキサンエマルジョン、高級脂肪族エステル変性シリコーン、高級アルコキシ変性シリコーン、フェノール変性シリコーン等が例示されるが、これらの例に限定されない。
【0026】
脂肪族金属塩としては、特に炭素数12〜18のものが好ましく、またそれらの塩としては、例えばカルシウム、マグネシウム、亜鉛、アルミニウム等の塩が挙げられ、特にアルミニウム塩が好ましい。従って脂肪族金属塩のうち好ましいものとしては、アルミニウムモノステアレート、アルミニウムジステアレート、アルミニウムモノオレエート、アルミニウムモノパルミテート、アルミニウムモノラウレート等が例示されるがこれらの例に限定されない。
【0027】
アルキルリン酸又はそのアルカリ金属塩もしくはアミン塩としては、炭素数1〜45のものが挙げられ、特に炭素数8以上のものが望ましい。炭素数8未満であると、そのアルキリン酸金属塩が粘着性を示し、滑沢性、伸展性が低下するおそれがある。かかる炭化水素基としては、例えば、オクチル、ノニル、ドデシル、デシル、ウンデシル、エイコセニシル基等が挙げられる。また、アルカリ金属としては、カリウム、ナトリウム等が挙げられ、アンモニウムとしては、モノエタノールアミン、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン、アルギニン等のアミンから導かれるものが挙げられる。
【0028】
アルキルリン酸又はその塩の具体例としては、ジセチルリン酸、モノラウリルリン酸、モノラウリルリン酸のナトリウム塩、カリウム塩又はアミン塩等が挙げられる。
N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を構成する塩基性アミノ酸としては、α,γ−ジアミノ酪酸、オルニチン、リジン、アルギニン、ヒスチジン等が挙げられる。これらは光学活性体であってもラセミ体であってもよい。長鎖脂肪族アシル基としては炭素数8〜22の飽和又は不飽和の長鎖又は分岐鎖の脂肪族アシル基が挙げられ、単一長鎖のものであっても混合長鎖のものであってもよい。具体的には、2−エチルヘキサノイル、カプリロイル、カプロイル、ラスロイル、ミリストイル、パルミトイル、ステアロイル、イソステアロイル、オレオイル、ベヘノイル、牛脂脂肪酸アシル、硬化牛脂脂肪酸アシル等が挙げられる。長鎖アシル基の塩基性アミノ酸への結合部位は、α位のアミノ基あるいはω位アミノ基であるが、アルギニン及びヒスチジンにおいてはα位のアミノ基に限定される。具体例としては、Nε-2-エチルヘコイルリジン、Nε-パルミトイルリジン、Nε-イソステアロイルリジン、Nα-ラウロイルアルギニン等が挙げられるが、これらの例に限定されない。
【0029】
パーフルオロアルキル基を有するフッ素化合物としては、パーフルオロアルキルリン酸(米国特許第3632744号明細書)、フルオロアルキルジ(オキシエチレン)アミンリン酸エステル(特開昭62-250074号公報)、パーフルオロアルキル基を有する樹脂(特開昭55-167209号公報)、四フッ化エチレン樹脂、パーフルオロアルコール、パーフルオロエポキシ化合物、スルホアミド型フルオロリン酸、パーフルオロ硫酸塩、パーフルオロカルボン酸塩、パーフルオロアルキルシラン(特開平2-218603号公報)等が挙げられる。
【0030】
粉体を疎水化処理する方法としては、特に限定されるものではないが、例えば以下に示す方法が挙げられる。
粉体のシリコーン油による処理は、例えばシリコーン油の一種又は二種以上を適量のヘキサン等に溶解したものに粉体を分散させ、溶剤留去後100〜200℃で2〜10時間処理し、その後粉砕することにより行う事ができる。
粉体のアルキルリン酸又はその塩による処理は、例えばアルキルリン酸をイソプロピルアルコール、ヘキサン等の溶剤で溶解したものに粉体を分散させ50℃〜70℃で1〜3時間処理し、溶剤留去後乾燥することにより行う事ができる。また、例えばアルキリン酸のアルカリ金属又はアミン塩を水に溶解したものに粉体を分散させ、50℃〜70℃で1〜3時間処理し、その後適当な酸で中和した後、熱時濾過し、エタノール水溶液で洗浄後、乾燥することにより行う事ができる。
【0031】
また、粉体をN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸で処理する方法としては乾式法は簡便かつ効果的であって、N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸の微細粉末を粉体と攪拌混合するか、もしくはN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸と粉体を混合した後、共粉砕することによって、粉体の表面を容易に処理できる。湿式法は、N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸が中性付近の水及び通常の油にほとんど溶解しないため、塩化カルシウムを可溶化剤として用いてN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を有機溶剤に溶解した後、粉体を接触させ、更に水洗いして塩化カルシウムを除去して乾燥することにより、粉体の表面を処理できる。あるいは酸性もしくはアルカリ性の水又は水溶性溶媒中にN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を溶解して粉体を接触させた後、中性付近まで中和して粉体表面にN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を析出付着させ、中和によって生じた塩を水洗いにより除去し、乾燥することによっても同様の表面処理ができる。(特開昭61-7202号公報、特開昭61-10503号公報)
粉体に対する疎水化処理剤の処理量は、0.05〜20重量%、特に2〜10重量%が十分な疎水性、良好な感触が得られ好ましい。
【0032】
また、本発明の化粧料は、被験者の皮膚評価部位の前記化粧料塗布時の表面反射光成分を(C)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(D)とした場合、照射光の入射角が皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(D)-(C)>0であり、及び/又は、前記化粧料の全光線透過率が75%以上、及びヘーズが65%以上であることを特徴とし、ファンデーションが好適である。
【0033】
評価法の最も好ましい形態は、前記皮膚表面反射光成分に関する手順及び前記透明性の評価に従って行われる。
本発明の化粧料は特に限定されないが、ファンデーション又はおしろいが好適である。ルース型、固形、固形パウダー型、固形油性型、固形油中水型乳化型、油中水型乳化型、水中油型乳化型、二層分散油中水型、水性型等のいずれであってよく、ルース型、固形、固形パウダー型、固形油性型が好ましく、特に、ルース型おしろい、固形パウダー型及び固形油性型のファンデーションの場合に本発明の効果は最も発揮される。
【0034】
前記化粧料に含まれる、前記無機粉体組成物の含有量は0.1〜90重量%であるが、おしろいのルース型の場合はより好ましくは5〜35重量%、固型の場合はより好ましくは7〜30重量%であり、ファンデーションの固形パウダー型の場合はより好ましくは7〜30重量%、固形油性型の場合は好ましくは0.1〜50重量%、より好ましくは5〜25重量%、固形油中水型乳化型、油中水型乳化型及び水中油型乳化型の場合は好ましくは0.1〜40重量%、より好ましくは5〜20重量%、二層分散油中水型の場合は好ましくは0.1〜30重量%、より好ましくは5〜15重量%、水性型の場合は0.1〜20重量%、より好ましくは5〜10重量%である。
【0035】
本発明の化粧料は、上記必須成分に加えて本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で、通常化粧料、医薬部外品等に用いられる成分を配合することができる。このような成分としては、例えば水、油分、保湿剤、活性剤、前記以外の粉体、分散剤、防腐剤、香料、増粘剤等が挙げられる。
油分としては、例えば、エステル油、シリコーンオイル、鉱物油、炭化水素、ワックス、脂肪酸、脂肪族アルコール天然脂肪、油性ゲル化剤等が挙げられ、配合量としては、0.01〜70重量%が好ましい。
【0036】
保湿剤としては、例えば、多価アルコール、ムコ多糖類等の水溶液、コラーゲンなどのタンパク質水溶液、糖類、アミノ酸水溶液等が挙げられ、配合量としては、0.001〜30重量%が好ましい。
粉体としては、例えば、無機顔料、有機顔料、シリコーン及びその誘導体、金属石鹸、フッ素化合物及びその誘導体、レシチン及びその誘導体、アミノ酸及びその塩等で表面処理された顔料等が挙げられ、配合量としては、0.1〜99重量%が好ましい。
【0037】
活性剤としては、例えば、脂肪酸エステル等の非イオン界面活性剤、レシチン及びホスフェートのような両性及び陰イオン界面活性剤、ポリエーテル変性シリコーンのようなシリコーン系活性剤等が挙げられ、配合量としては、0.01〜20重量%が好ましい。
【0038】
【実施例】
次に実施例をあげて本発明をより詳細に説明する。なお本発明はこれら実施例のみに限定されるものではない。
実施例1〜3、比較例1、2について、皮膚の表面反射光成分及び無機粉体組成物自身の透明性に対する影響を前記の方法により評価した。
実施例1
タルク100gを純水1Lに添加して充分に分散し、これに二酸化チタンとして濃度20%の硫酸チタニル水溶液88.3gを加え攪拌しながら加熱し5時間沸騰させた。これを室温まで冷却し、濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥させて、二酸化チタンの水和物が被覆されたタルクを得た。これを100g計量し1Lの純水中に添加しよく分散させて、70℃に加熱し、酸化ジルコニウムとして10重量%のオルト硫酸ジルコニウム水溶液176.5gを5重量%の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液でpH5を維持しながら徐々に加えた。約2時間で添加を終了したあと、更に5重量%の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を加えpHを7〜8に調製して冷却し、濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥することで、酸化チタン及び酸化ジルコニウムの水和物で被覆されたタルクを得た。これを更に100g計量し750mLの純水中に添加しよく分散させたものを、酸化アルミニウムとして濃度10%の塩化アルミニウム水溶液250g及び尿素160gを水500mLに溶かした溶液に加えてよく混合し90℃で5時間加熱し、室温まで冷却した。これを濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥後、更に600℃で5時間加熱し、酸化チタン、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化アルミニウムで順次被膜されたタルクを得た。更にこれを100g計量しエタノールと水の混合溶剤(7:3の比率)1Lに加えよく分散させる。これにシリカとして4重量%の正ケイ酸エチルエタノール溶液277.8gを加えて、50℃に加熱し約10時間保持した。次に、これを冷却後濾過し、エタノールにて洗浄後、更に純水で充分に洗浄し110℃で乾燥し、酸化チタン、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化アルミニウム及びシリカが被覆されたタルク(粉末)を得た。その成分重量%はタルク:酸化チタン:酸化ジルコニウム:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=52:9.2:10.8:18:10である。
【0039】
実施例2
タルク100gを純水1Lに添加して充分に分散し、これに二酸化チタンとして濃度20%の硫酸チタニル水溶液40.5gを加え攪拌しながら加熱し5時間沸騰させた。これを室温まで冷却し、濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥させて、二酸化チタンの水和物が被覆されたタルクを得た。これを更に100g計量し750mLの純水中に添加しよく分散させたものを、酸化アルミニウムとして濃度10%の塩化アルミニウム水溶液250g及び尿素160gを水500mLに溶かした溶液に加えてよく混合し90℃で5時間加熱し、室温まで冷却した。これを濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥後、更に600℃で5時間加熱し、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウムで順次被膜されたタルクを得た。更にこれを100g計量しエタノールと水の混合溶剤(7:3の比率)1Lに加えよく分散させた。これにシリカとして4重量%の正ケイ酸エチルエタノール溶液277.8gを加えて、50℃に加熱し約10時間保持した。次に、これを冷却後濾過し、エタノールにて洗浄後、更に純水で充分に洗浄し110℃で乾燥し、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、シリカで順次被膜されたタルク(粉末)を得た。その成分重量%は、タルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=66.6:5.4:18:10である。
【0040】
実施例3
タルク100gを純水1Lに添加して充分に分散し、これに二酸化チタンとして濃度20%の硫酸チタニル水溶液88.3gを加え攪拌しながら加熱し5時間沸騰させた。これを室温まで冷却し、濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥させて、二酸化チタンの水和物が被覆されたタルクを得た。これを更に100g計量し750mLの純水中に添加しよく分散させたものを、酸化アルミニウムとして濃度10%の塩化アルミニウム水溶液250g及び尿素160gを水500mLに溶かした溶液に加えてよく混合し90℃で5時間加熱し、室温まで冷却した。これを濾過水洗し、110℃で乾燥後、更に600℃で5時間加熱し、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウムで順次被膜されたタルクを得た。次に、平均粒子径0.6μm真球状シリカの濃度20%のモノエチレングリコールを分散媒とするシリカオルガノゾル100gとイソプロパノール220gの混合液を調製した。これに酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウムで順次被覆されたタルク80gを添加し室温で混合攪拌した。次いでこの分散液に500gのエタノールを加え、更にアンモニア水を加えてpH9.5以上とし、液温を45℃に加温した後、この温度とpHを維持しつつ攪拌しながら正ケイ酸エチルと28%アンモニア水を同時に5時間かけて添加した。正ケイ酸エチルの添加量はシリカとして11.1gであった。添加終了後、更に2時間攪拌した後、濾過洗浄し、110℃で乾燥して、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、球状シリカ、シリカで被覆されたタルク(粉末)を得た。その成分重量%はタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:球状シリカ:シリカ=49:8.6:14.4:18:10である。
【0041】
比較例1
実施例1で原料として使用したタルクを、実際に皮膚及び透明板に塗布した。
比較例2
平均粒子径0.3μmの酸化亜鉛を、実際にヒト皮膚及び透明板に塗布した。
皮膚への粉体の塗布量は10mg/cm2とした。実施例1〜3及び比較例1、2における光学的評価及び官能評価結果を表1に示す。
【0042】
【表1】

Figure 0004684480
【0043】
皮膚表面反射光成分に関して、被験者の皮膚評価部位の前記粉体組成物塗布時の表面反射光成分を(A)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(B)とした場合、照射光の入射角が皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(B)-(A)>0である場合を○、そうでない場合を×と評価した。粉体の透明性に関しては、全光線透過率が80%以上、及びヘーズが70%以上である場合を○、そうでない場合を×とした。
【0044】
官能評価専門パネラー16名を用いて、試料粉体を皮膚に塗布し、シアー感、ベール感、カバー力、及び若く美しく仕上がるを重視した総合評価について官能評価を行った。評価基準はその項目が感じられる、やや感じられる、感じられないの3段階評価において、感じられる人数が13〜16名を○、5〜12名を△、1〜4名を×とした。
実施例4
(1)実施例1の無機粉体組成物 20重量%、(2)タルク 残量、(3)セリサイト5.0重量%、(4)防腐剤 適量、(5)酸化防止剤 適量、(6)着色材 適量 について、製法として、(1)〜(6)をヘンシェルミキサーにて攪拌混合後、粉砕を行い、ルース型おしろいを得た。
【0045】
実施例5
(1)実施例2の無機粉体組成物 15重量%、(2)シリコーン処理タルク残量、(3)シリコーン処理セリサイト 30重量%、(4)シリコーン処理マイカ10重量%、 (5)シリコーン処理酸化チタン 10重量%、(6)防腐剤適量、 (7)着色材 適量、(8)シリコーンオイル 3.5重量%、(9)2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 2.0重量%、(10)吸着精製ラノリン 1.0重量%、(11)酸化防止剤 適量について、製法として、ヘンシェルミキサーにて(1)〜(7)を攪拌混合し粉砕を行い、混合溶解した(8)〜(11)を粉砕した(1)〜(7)とヘンシェルミキサーで攪拌混合し、再び粉砕を行い、金皿容器にプレスし固形パウダー型ファンデーションを得た。
【0046】
実施例6
(1)実施例3の無機粉体組成物 5重量%、(2)マイカ20重量%、(3)酸化チタン 15重量%、(4)ナイロンパウダー 5重量%、(5)シリコーンオイル 5重量%、(6)セレシン 6重量%、(7)スクワラン 15重量%、(8)吸着精製ラノリン10重量%、(9)カルナバ蝋 5重量%、(10)防腐剤 適量、(11)着色材 適量、(12)2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 残量、を用いて、(1)〜(12)を加熱溶解分散後、3本ロールミルを行い、70℃で金皿容器に流し込み、固形油性型ファンデーションを得た。
【0047】
比較例3
(1)シリコーン処理タルク 残量、(2)シリコーン処理セリサイト 30重量%、(3)シリコーン処理マイカ10重量%、(4)シリコーン処理酸化チタン 10重量%、(5)防腐剤 適量、(6)着色材 適量、(7)シリコーンオイル 3.5重量%、(8)2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 2.0重量%、 (9)吸着精製ラノリン 1.0重量%、(10)酸化防止剤 適量、を用いて、ヘンシェルミキサーにて(1)〜(6)を攪拌混合し粉砕を行い、混合溶解した(7)〜(10)を粉砕した(1)〜(6)とヘンシェルミキサーで攪拌混合し、再び粉砕を行い、金皿容器にプレスし固形パウダー型ファンデーションを得た。
【0048】
図3に実施例5及び比較例3のファンデーションを塗布した場合の皮膚表面反射光成分を示す。表面反射光成分評価における皮膚へのファンデーションの塗布量は10mg/cm2とし、照射光の入射角は35度、受光角は反射方向に60度である。また、表2に透明性評価結果、及び官能評価を含む総合評価を表3に示す。実施例4〜6のファンデーションは、比較例3よりも、透明感もあり、非常に皮膚の質感に有効で、老いた肌を若くみせる効果がある優れた化粧料であった。
【0049】
【表2】
Figure 0004684480
【0050】
【表3】
Figure 0004684480
【0051】
【発明の効果】
本発明の無機粉体組成物は、とくに化粧料成分として有用である。その評価は、人が肌の若さを視覚的に評価する場合の主因子である皮膚の質感が客観的かつ簡易な方法でなされており、皮膚を若く見せる組成物やそれを含む化粧料として使用可能である。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】図1は20歳女性の顔全体の表面反射光成分を示す図。
【図2】図2は48歳女性の顔全体の表面反射光成分を示す図。
【図3】図3は本発明の評価法により有効性を示す表面反射光成分のデータである。[0001]
[Industrial application fields]
The present invention relates to an inorganic powder composition and its cosmetic use, and more specifically, an inorganic powder composition having a function of correcting a specific texture of skin due to aging and obtaining a natural finish and making it appear younger than the actual age. And a cosmetic containing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The desire for women to make their skin look youthful is universal. Various cosmetics have been developed to satisfy such needs.
When a person visually evaluates skin youth, a comprehensive judgment is made from the viewpoints of “color”, “form”, and “texture”.
Regarding “color” and “form”, the increase in yellowness, decrease in redness, decrease in lightness and increase in wrinkles and sagging with aging were revealed both subjectively and objectively, and the spectral reflectance was measured. From a well-established system such as image analysis of skin replicas, scientific theories and evaluation methods for skin youth have been constructed, and product development has been made (1996-2, FRAGRANCE JOURNAL, p35-40, 1998-4, FRAGRANCE JOURNAL, p27-35, etc.).
[0003]
As for “texture”, as much knowledge as “color” and “form” has not been obtained. 1999, J.M. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn. Vol. 33, no. 2, according to p154 to 162, the texture is generally measured optically, and is evaluated by the intensity of the surface reflected light component of the object. The surface reflected light component includes surface unevenness information and glossiness. Contains information.
For example, paying attention to the optical effect derived from the semi-transparency of the stratum corneum, evaluating multiple spectral reflectances for irradiated light from two different directions (85 degrees and 40 degrees), and comparing the obtained spectral patterns with each other A cosmetic composition that provides a skin texture by selecting a powder composition by the method is disclosed (JP-A-10-139629, etc.). In addition, we established the quantification of unevenness information such as pores by Fourier analysis of the surface reflected light component of the skin, and presented the possibility of contributing to the development of cosmetic products (1993, Journal of the Japan Photographic Society, Vol. 56, No. 4) P264-269 etc.).
[0004]
However, in order to carry out these measurement methods and evaluation methods, purchase of expensive measurement / analysis equipment, complicated and time-consuming procedures, specialized knowledge, etc. are required. Has not reached. In particular, with regard to the “texture” of the skin, simple evaluation methods are unsatisfactory, and the product development based on them has not been made much.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made in view of such a situation, and it is an objective and simple method to evaluate the texture of the skin, which is the main factor when a person visually evaluates skin youth, Is to provide a composition that makes the skin look younger and a cosmetic containing the same.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In view of this situation, the present inventors have conducted extensive research to elucidate the optical mechanism that makes human skin look younger. It has been found that there is an optical element in the combination of the light source incident angle and the light receiving angle with respect to the surface reflected light component, particularly the surface reflected light component.
Regarding skin unevenness information, with aging, structural fibers change and collapse in the dermis, the thickness of the subcutaneous fat decreases, the skin relaxes, large and small wrinkles are noticeable, pores droop large and vertically, etc. Can be seen.
[0007]
As the skin ages, the skin becomes uneven, the area increases, and the fluffy sensation decreases. Even at the cellular level, aging keratinocytes of the skin become flattened. Therefore, regarding the gloss of the skin, the gloss is visually noticeable on the surface of the skin despite the decrease in the amount of sebum, and so-called skin shine is observed on the bare skin. Gloss is also observed in younger generations of skin, but beautiful luster with translucency is observed due to the fluffy skin with a uniform and small area and a moderately transparent stratum corneum. In other words, even when the same optical phenomenon is observed, the tendency of the glossiness of the skin is different between the two, and the difference is so-called “shine” for middle-aged and older, and “shiny” for younger age. "Is expressed.
[0008]
The present inventors examined the texture of the skin from the reflected light component on the skin surface by the irradiated light, and in particular, regarding the difference between the younger generation “shinya” and the middle-aged “shine”, the incident angle of the irradiated light and the surface reflected light component It was found that the intensity of the reflected light component is different between young skin and middle-aged skin even when the light receiving angles are the same. Furthermore, since the surface reflection light component of the skin is observed from multiple angles by changing the combination of the incident angle and the light reception angle of the light source, the surface reflection light component at a specific incident angle and light reception angle must be young and beautiful. It has been found that it contributes greatly.
[0009]
That is, the inorganic powder composition of the present invention has (A) the surface reflected light component when the powder composition is applied to the skin evaluation site of the subject, and (B) the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site when not applied. ), The incident angle of the irradiated light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, and the light receiving angle is any angle of 40 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, It is always (B)-(A)> 0.
For the detection of the surface reflected light component, (1) either a silver salt camera or an electronic camera with a polarizing plate attached to the skin evaluation site of the subject by irradiating the skin evaluation site with illumination light from one direction And (2) the incident of the illumination light, respectively, taking a photograph that emphasizes the surface reflection light component including the internal reflection light component of the skin most and a photograph that removes the surface reflection light component of the skin most. The angle is 0 to 80 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle of the surface reflected light component is in the range of 15 to 80 degrees with respect to the skin surface, and one or more of the incident angle and the light receiving angle is set. A step of setting at least two different directions, (3) a step of obtaining the surface reflection light component image of the skin by digitizing the two photographed images, and a difference processing, and (4) luminance of the surface reflection light component image in multiple gradations. Convert and amplify Step, obtained by a process comprising.
[0010]
In addition, it has been found that if the transparency and the degree of diffusion of transmitted light of the powder uniformly applied to the transparent plate are high, a suitable powder composition that can be made younger and more beautiful can be provided.
That is, the inorganic powder composition of the present invention is characterized in that the total light transmittance is 80% or more and the haze is 70% or more.
The inorganic powder composition is preferably coated with talc in the order of titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, and silica, and the weight ratio thereof is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 55 to 75: 3 to 7:12. -24: 5 to 15 wt%, or talc is coated in the order of titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, spherical silica and silica, and the weight ratio thereof is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: spherical silica: silica = 40 to 60: 3 to 13: 8 to 20:10 to 24: 5 to 15% by weight, or talc is coated with titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, and silica in this order, and talc: titanium oxide. : Zirconium oxide: Aluminum oxide: Silica = 40-60: 3-13: 5-15: 12-24: 5-15% by weight.
[0011]
The talc used in the present invention preferably has an average particle diameter of 2 to 20 μm and a thickness of 0.05 to 1 μm. Inorganic oxide coating methods have been conventionally used as inorganic oxide coating methods, such as a method of hydrolyzing a metal salt of a precursor such as the inorganic oxide or a method of hydrolyzing a similar metal alkoxide in an alcohol solution. There is no particular limitation as long as it is a known method. For example, a metal salt such as titanium tetrachloride is added to a material in which a scaly substrate is dispersed in water, hydrolyzed in an alkaline atmosphere, and a metal salt hydrolyzate is deposited on the surface of the scaly substrate to oxidize to a predetermined thickness. Examples thereof include a method for obtaining a titanium coating layer. In addition, when coating silica, an alkali metal silicate aqueous solution is added to the dispersion of the scaly substrate, and a silica polymer is adhered to the surface of the scaly substrate, whereby silica having a predetermined thickness is obtained. The method of obtaining a coating layer is mentioned.
[0012]
As described above, the metal powder is sequentially coated on the base material to obtain the desired inorganic powder composition.
Furthermore, the cosmetic of the present invention is (A) the surface reflected light component at the time of applying the cosmetic of the subject's skin evaluation site, and (B) the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site at the time of non-application, When the incident angle of the irradiated light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle is always any angle in the reflection direction of 40 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface. (A)> 0.
[0013]
For the detection of the surface reflected light component, (1) either a silver salt camera or an electronic camera with a polarizing plate attached to the skin evaluation site of the subject by irradiating the skin evaluation site with illumination light from one direction And (2) the incident of the illumination light, respectively, taking a photograph that emphasizes the surface reflection light component including the internal reflection light component of the skin most and a photograph that removes the surface reflection light component of the skin most. The angle is 0 to 80 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle of the surface reflected light component is in the range of 15 to 80 degrees with respect to the skin surface, and one or more of the incident angle and the light receiving angle is set. A step of setting at least two different directions, (3) a step of obtaining the surface reflection light component image of the skin by digitizing the two photographed images, and a difference processing, and (4) luminance of the surface reflection light component image in multiple gradations. Convert and amplify Step, obtained by a process comprising.
[0014]
In addition, it has been found that if the transparency and the degree of diffusion of the transmitted light of the cosmetic applied uniformly on the transparent plate are high, a suitable cosmetic that can be made even younger and more beautiful can be provided.
That is, the cosmetic of the present invention is characterized in that the total light transmittance is 75% or more and the haze is 65% or more.
The cosmetic preferably contains 0.1 to 90% of the inorganic powder composition of the present invention.
[0015]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Embodiments of the present invention will be described below.
In the inorganic powder composition of the present invention, the surface reflected light component when the powder composition is applied to the skin evaluation site of the subject is (A), and the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site when not applied is (B). When the incident angle of the irradiation light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle is always at any angle of 40 to 70 degrees in the reflection direction with respect to the skin surface ( B)-(A)> 0 and / or the total light transmittance of the powder composition is 80% or more and haze is 70% or more, which is also suitable for cosmetics. .
[0016]
The most preferable form of the evaluation method relating to the skin surface reflected light component is performed according to the following procedure.
(1) The skin surface is irradiated with diffused light from one direction, and the skin surface is photographed at a plurality of light receiving angles with a photographing device of either a silver salt camera or an electronic camera equipped with a polarizing plate. The part of the skin surface to be imaged here is not particularly limited, but imaging of the entire face or a person's cheek is preferable because an appropriate evaluation result can be obtained. The light receiving angle is 0 to 80 degrees, more preferably 20 to 80 degrees, still more preferably 40 to 70 degrees in the direction opposite to the incident direction of the irradiation light with respect to the skin surface. At that time, a photograph in which the surface reflection light component including the internal reflection light component of the skin is most emphasized by rotation of the polarizing plate and a photograph in which the surface reflection light component of the skin is most removed are taken. The diffuse light source is not particularly limited, but is preferably white incandescent light. The photographing apparatus may use either a silver salt camera or an electronic camera as a photograph to be obtained, but is preferably a digital camera having a CCD camera or a non-CCD camera as an imaging unit. With a digital camera, the photo analysis procedure can be short-circuited, and more appropriate evaluation results can be obtained. The inventors used a digital camera C-2500L (manufactured by OLYMPUS).
[0017]
(2) A photograph in which the diffused light is irradiated at an angle different from the direction of (1) and the surface reflected light component including the internal reflected light component of the skin is emphasized most, and the surface reflected light component of the skin is the most A plurality of removed photographs are taken by changing the light receiving angle in the same manner as in (1). These photographing operations are performed a plurality of times by diffusing light irradiation at different angles. At this time, the incident angle with respect to the skin surface of the light irradiated by (1) and (2) is 0 to 80 degrees, more preferably 20 to 80 degrees, and still more preferably 20 to 70 degrees.
[0018]
(3) After digitally converting each of the photograph (1) with the most emphasized surface reflected light component including the internal reflected light component of the skin and the photograph with the most removed surface reflected light component of the skin, the difference between both A surface reflected light component image is obtained. Similarly, the surface reflected light component image is obtained in the same manner for the photograph (2) where the surface reflected light component including the internal reflected light component of the skin is most emphasized and the photograph where the surface reflected light component of the skin is most removed. Here, the apparatus for performing digital conversion of photographs is not limited as long as digital conversion is possible. For example, it can be performed according to the procedure using a digital camera.
[0019]
(4) The surface reflected light component image is converted into a luminance value (L*Value) to amplify the luminance level. The gradation at the time of conversion may be 16, 256, 32, 768, etc., but a large gradation such as 16,777,216 is more preferable. The luminance value becomes an index of the texture of the skin. At this time, the amplification factor is 1 to 5, more preferably 1.5 to 4, and still more preferably 2 to 3.5. Further, the difference processing in (3) and the luminance conversion and amplification processing in (4) are not particularly limited as long as each processing is possible. For example, Photoshop 3.0J (manufactured by Adobe) that is image editing software is used. Can be processed. Here, the procedures (1) to (4) were performed as a method for detecting the surface reflected light component of the skin, but there is no particular limitation as long as the surface reflected light component can be detected.
[0020]
(5) The texture of the skin is evaluated from the tendency of the reflected light component of the skin having various combinations thus obtained. In particular, it is more preferable to evaluate the texture of the surface reflected light component measured when the incident angle of the illumination light with respect to the skin surface is 20 to 70 degrees and the light receiving angle is 40 to 70 degrees opposite to the incident direction.
1 and 2, the incident angle of the light source is irradiated at 0, 22.5, 45, and 67.5 degrees with respect to the front of the face, and the light receiving angle of the photographing apparatus is in the reflection direction with respect to the face surface. It represents the surface reflection light component of the face when it is measured by the procedures (1) to (4), assuming a positive angle, 0, 22.5, 45, 67.5 degrees. FIG. 1 shows the trend of the texture of the face of a 20-year-old woman, and FIG. 2 shows the trend of the texture of the face of a 48-year-old woman. The horizontal axis indicates the incident angle of the irradiated light with respect to the face surface in the order of 67.5, 45, 22.5, and 0 degree, and the vertical axis indicates the light receiving angle of the photographing apparatus with the reflection direction with respect to the face surface being positive, 67.5, It is shown in order of 45, 22.5, and 0 degrees. Amplification after luminance conversion is 3 times. The brighter the higher the brightness, the brighter the part.
[0021]
When FIG. 1 is compared with FIG. 2, 67.5 degrees incident 67.5 degrees received light, 45 degrees incident 67.5 degrees received light, 22.5 degrees incident 67.5 degrees received light, 45 degrees incident 45 degrees received light respectively As the body ages, the luminance increases and many white portions are observed. From this, remarkable surface reflection is seen in the combination of these incident angles and light receiving angles that are specific with aging, and if this surface reflection is suppressed and close to that of a young woman, the finish will make the skin look younger. I understand. Therefore, if the tendency of the obtained surface reflected light component is compared, it is possible to evaluate the degree to which the inorganic powder composition and the cosmetics are made to look younger.
[0022]
In addition, for the evaluation of the powder composition itself, dispersed with a clear lacquer so that the content of the inorganic powder composition in the coating film obtained by coating and drying on a colorless transparent plate is 25% by weight, The measurement is performed by measuring the total light transmittance and haze of a coating film sample having a thickness of 5 μm.
The method of applying a uniform coating film on the transparent plate of the powder composition is not particularly limited as long as the coating film thickness is 5 μm and the powder content in the coating film is 25% by weight. For example, an ultrasonic homogenizer US-300T (Nippon Seiki Seisakusyo Co., Ltd.) is used to disperse it in a clear lacquer SPIRIT VARNISH (Endo Chemical Industries, Ltd.) containing 30% nitrocellulose in an organic solvent. ) And uniformly applying to the transparent plate.
[0023]
The transparent plate is colorless and is not particularly limited as long as it does not greatly affect the total light transmittance and haze of the powder itself. More preferably, the transparent plate has high transparency such as polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene terephthalate, and polyester. It is a transparent film formed from a solvent-resistant material. For example, an OHP film (made by Plus Co., Ltd.) having a thickness of 0.1 mm and made of polyester can be used.
[0024]
The measurement of the total light transmittance and haze is not particularly limited except that an apparatus conforming to the measurement method defined in JIS K 7105 or JIS K 7136 is used.
For example, it can measure using Haze computer HZ-2 (made by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.).
The inorganic powder composition of the present invention is preferably coated with talc in the order of titanium oxide, aluminum oxide and silica, and the weight ratio thereof is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 55 to 75: 3 to 7 Or talc is coated in the order of titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, spherical silica and silica, and the weight ratio is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: spherical silica: Silica = 40 to 60: 3 to 13: 8 to 20:10 to 24: 5 to 15% by weight, or talc is coated with titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide and silica in this order, and talc: Titanium oxide: zirconium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 40-60: 3-13: 5-15: 12-24: 5-15% by weight. Moreover, in order to mix | blend suitably with cosmetics, it is preferable to perform the hydrophobic process of the powder surface.
[0025]
The hydrophobizing treatment is performed using a hydrophobizing agent, and examples of the hydrophobizing agent include silicone oil, aliphatic metal salt, alkyl phosphoric acid, alkali metal salt or amine salt of alkyl phosphoric acid, and N-mono long chain. Examples thereof include aliphatic acyl basic amino acids and fluorine compounds having a perfluoroalkyl group.
The silicone oil is not particularly limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane, cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl polysiloxane, cyclic methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, Examples include polyether-modified silicones, alkyl-modified silicones, methylpolysiloxane emulsions, higher aliphatic ester-modified silicones, higher alkoxy-modified silicones, and phenol-modified silicones, but are not limited to these examples.
[0026]
As the aliphatic metal salt, those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms are particularly preferable, and as such salts, for example, salts of calcium, magnesium, zinc, aluminum and the like can be mentioned, and aluminum salts are particularly preferable. Accordingly, preferred examples of the aliphatic metal salt include aluminum monostearate, aluminum distearate, aluminum monooleate, aluminum monopalmitate, and aluminum monolaurate, but are not limited to these examples.
[0027]
Examples of the alkyl phosphoric acid or its alkali metal salt or amine salt include those having 1 to 45 carbon atoms, and those having 8 or more carbon atoms are particularly desirable. When the number of carbon atoms is less than 8, the alkyl metal salt of the alkylate exhibits adhesiveness, and lubricity and extensibility may be deteriorated. Examples of such hydrocarbon groups include octyl, nonyl, dodecyl, decyl, undecyl, and eicosenicil groups. Examples of the alkali metal include potassium and sodium, and examples of the ammonium include those derived from amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and arginine.
[0028]
Specific examples of alkyl phosphoric acid or a salt thereof include dicetyl phosphoric acid, monolauryl phosphoric acid, sodium salt, potassium salt or amine salt of monolauryl phosphoric acid.
Examples of the basic amino acid constituting the N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid include α, γ-diaminobutyric acid, ornithine, lysine, arginine, histidine and the like. These may be optically active or racemic. Examples of the long-chain aliphatic acyl group include saturated or unsaturated long-chain or branched-chain aliphatic acyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. May be. Specific examples include 2-ethylhexanoyl, capryloyl, caproyl, lathroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, behenoyl, beef tallow fatty acid acyl, and hardened tallow fatty acid acyl. The binding site of the long-chain acyl group to the basic amino acid is the α-position amino group or the ω-position amino group, but is limited to the α-position amino group in arginine and histidine. Specific examples include Nε-2-ethylhecolylidine, Nε-palmitoyllysine, Nε-isostearoyllysine, Nα-lauroylarginine and the like, but are not limited to these examples.
[0029]
Examples of the fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group include perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid (US Pat. No. 3,632,744), fluoroalkyl di (oxyethylene) amine phosphate (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 62-250074), and perfluoroalkyl. Group-containing resin (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-167209), tetrafluoroethylene resin, perfluoroalcohol, perfluoroepoxy compound, sulfoamide type fluorophosphoric acid, perfluorosulfate, perfluorocarboxylate, perfluoroalkyl Examples thereof include silane (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-218603).
[0030]
The method for hydrophobizing the powder is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include the following methods.
The treatment of the powder with silicone oil is, for example, by dispersing the powder in one or two or more types of silicone oil dissolved in an appropriate amount of hexane, and treating at 100 to 200 ° C. for 2 to 10 hours after the solvent is distilled off. Thereafter, it can be performed by grinding.
The powder is treated with alkylphosphoric acid or a salt thereof, for example, the powder is dispersed in a solution of alkylphosphoric acid dissolved in a solvent such as isopropyl alcohol or hexane, and treated at 50 ° C. to 70 ° C. for 1 to 3 hours. It can be done by drying after leaving. In addition, for example, a powder is dispersed in an alkali metal or amine salt of alkylphosphoric acid dissolved in water, treated at 50 ° C. to 70 ° C. for 1 to 3 hours, then neutralized with an appropriate acid, and then filtered while hot. It can be performed by washing with an aqueous ethanol solution and then drying.
[0031]
Further, as a method of treating powder with N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid, the dry method is simple and effective, and fine powder of N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid is used as powder. The surface of the powder can be easily treated by stirring and mixing, or by mixing the N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid and the powder, followed by co-grinding. In the wet method, N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid hardly dissolves in neutral water and normal oil, so N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic using calcium chloride as a solubilizer After the amino acid is dissolved in an organic solvent, the surface of the powder can be treated by bringing the powder into contact with each other and further washing with water to remove calcium chloride and drying. Alternatively, the N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid is dissolved in acidic or alkaline water or a water-soluble solvent and brought into contact with the powder, and then neutralized to near neutrality to form N-mono on the powder surface. The same surface treatment can be performed by depositing and attaching a long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid, removing the salt generated by neutralization by washing with water, and drying. (JP 61-7202, JP 61-10503)
The treatment amount of the hydrophobizing agent with respect to the powder is preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, particularly 2 to 10% by weight because sufficient hydrophobicity and good feel can be obtained.
[0032]
Further, the cosmetic of the present invention is (C) the surface reflected light component at the time of applying the cosmetic of the subject's skin evaluation site, and (D) the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site at the time of non-application, When the incident angle of the irradiation light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle is always any angle in the reflection direction of 40 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface (D) −. (C)> 0, and / or the total light transmittance of the cosmetic is 75% or more and haze is 65% or more, and a foundation is preferable.
[0033]
The most preferable form of the evaluation method is performed according to the procedure relating to the skin surface reflected light component and the evaluation of the transparency.
The cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a foundation or funny is suitable. Loose type, solid, solid powder type, solid oil type, solid oil-in-water emulsion type, water-in-oil type emulsion type, oil-in-water type emulsion type, two-layer dispersed water-in-oil type, aqueous type, etc. The loose type, solid, solid powder type, and solid oil type are preferable, and the effects of the present invention are most exhibited particularly in the case of loose type, solid powder type, and solid oil type foundations.
[0034]
The content of the inorganic powder composition contained in the cosmetic is 0.1 to 90% by weight, more preferably 5 to 35% by weight in the case of an interesting loose type, and more in the case of a solid type. It is preferably 7 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7 to 30% by weight in the case of a solid powder type of foundation, preferably 0.1 to 50% by weight in the case of a solid oily type, and more preferably 5 to 25% by weight. %, Solid oil-in-water emulsion type, water-in-oil emulsion type and oil-in-water type emulsion type are preferably 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight, water in two-layer dispersion oil In the case of a mold, it is preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, and in the case of an aqueous mold, it is 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight.
[0035]
In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, components that are usually used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, and the like can be blended as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of such components include water, oil, humectants, activators, powders other than those described above, dispersants, preservatives, fragrances, thickeners, and the like.
Examples of the oil component include ester oil, silicone oil, mineral oil, hydrocarbon, wax, fatty acid, fatty alcohol natural fat, oily gelling agent, and the blending amount is 0.01 to 70% by weight. preferable.
[0036]
Examples of the humectant include aqueous solutions such as polyhydric alcohols and mucopolysaccharides, protein aqueous solutions such as collagen, saccharides, amino acid aqueous solutions, and the like, and the blending amount is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight.
Examples of the powder include inorganic pigments, organic pigments, silicone and derivatives thereof, metal soaps, fluorine compounds and derivatives thereof, lecithin and derivatives thereof, pigments surface-treated with amino acids and salts thereof, and the like. Is preferably 0.1 to 99% by weight.
[0037]
Examples of the active agent include nonionic surfactants such as fatty acid esters, amphoteric and anionic surfactants such as lecithin and phosphate, and silicone-based active agents such as polyether-modified silicone. Is preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight.
[0038]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited to these examples.
About Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the influence on the transparency of the surface reflection light component of the skin and the inorganic powder composition itself was evaluated by the above method.
Example 1
100 g of talc was added to 1 L of pure water and sufficiently dispersed. To this was added 88.3 g of a 20% strength titanyl sulfate aqueous solution as titanium dioxide, heated with stirring and boiled for 5 hours. This was cooled to room temperature, washed with filtered water, and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc coated with a hydrate of titanium dioxide. 100 g of this was added and dispersed well in 1 L of pure water, heated to 70 ° C., and 176.5 g of 10 wt% zirconium orthosulfate aqueous solution as zirconium oxide was adjusted to pH 5 with 5 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution. Gradually added while maintaining. After completion of the addition in about 2 hours, a 5% by weight sodium hydroxide aqueous solution was added to adjust the pH to 7-8, cooled, filtered water washed, and dried at 110 ° C., so that titanium oxide and zirconium oxide were obtained. A talc coated with a hydrate of 100 g of this was further weighed and added to 750 mL of pure water and well dispersed, and then added to a solution of 250 g of 10% strength aluminum chloride aqueous solution and 160 g of urea dissolved in 500 mL of water as aluminum oxide and mixed well. For 5 hours and cooled to room temperature. This was washed with filtered water, dried at 110 ° C., and further heated at 600 ° C. for 5 hours to obtain talc coated sequentially with titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, and aluminum oxide. Further, 100 g of this is weighed and added to 1 L of a mixed solvent of ethanol and water (ratio of 7: 3) and dispersed well. To this was added 277.8 g of a 4 wt% ethyl silicate solution as silica, heated to 50 ° C. and held for about 10 hours. Next, this is cooled and filtered, washed with ethanol, further thoroughly washed with pure water and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc (powder) coated with titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide and silica. It was. The component weight% is talc: titanium oxide: zirconium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 52: 9.2: 10.8: 18: 10.
[0039]
Example 2
100 g of talc was added to 1 L of pure water and sufficiently dispersed, and 40.5 g of a 20% strength titanyl sulfate aqueous solution as titanium dioxide was added thereto, heated with stirring and boiled for 5 hours. This was cooled to room temperature, washed with filtered water, and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc coated with a hydrate of titanium dioxide. 100 g of this was further weighed and added to 750 mL of pure water and well dispersed, and then added to a solution of 250 g of 10% strength aluminum chloride aqueous solution and 160 g of urea dissolved in 500 mL of water as aluminum oxide and mixed well. For 5 hours and cooled to room temperature. This was washed with filtered water, dried at 110 ° C., and further heated at 600 ° C. for 5 hours to obtain talc coated sequentially with titanium oxide and aluminum oxide. Further, 100 g of this was weighed and added to 1 L of a mixed solvent of ethanol and water (ratio of 7: 3) and well dispersed. To this was added 277.8 g of a 4 wt% ethyl silicate solution as silica, heated to 50 ° C. and held for about 10 hours. Next, this was cooled and filtered, washed with ethanol, further thoroughly washed with pure water, and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc (powder) coated sequentially with titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, and silica. The component weight% is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 66.6: 5.4: 18: 10.
[0040]
Example 3
100 g of talc was added to 1 L of pure water and sufficiently dispersed. To this was added 88.3 g of a 20% strength titanyl sulfate aqueous solution as titanium dioxide, heated with stirring and boiled for 5 hours. This was cooled to room temperature, washed with filtered water, and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc coated with a hydrate of titanium dioxide. 100 g of this was further weighed and added to 750 mL of pure water and well dispersed, and then added to a solution of 250 g of 10% strength aluminum chloride aqueous solution and 160 g of urea dissolved in 500 mL of water as aluminum oxide and mixed well. For 5 hours and cooled to room temperature. This was washed with filtered water, dried at 110 ° C., and further heated at 600 ° C. for 5 hours to obtain talc coated sequentially with titanium oxide and aluminum oxide. Next, a mixed liquid of 100 g of silica organosol using monoethylene glycol having a mean particle diameter of 0.6 μm and spherical silica at a concentration of 20% as a dispersion medium and 220 g of isopropanol was prepared. To this was added 80 g of talc coated with titanium oxide and aluminum oxide, and the mixture was stirred at room temperature. Next, 500 g of ethanol was added to the dispersion, and ammonia water was further added to adjust the pH to 9.5 or higher. After the liquid temperature was increased to 45 ° C., while maintaining this temperature and pH, while stirring, 28% aqueous ammonia was added simultaneously over 5 hours. The added amount of normal ethyl silicate was 11.1 g as silica. After completion of the addition, the mixture was further stirred for 2 hours, filtered, washed, and dried at 110 ° C. to obtain talc (powder) coated with titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, spherical silica, and silica. The component weight% is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: spherical silica: silica = 49: 8.6: 14.4: 18: 10.
[0041]
Comparative Example 1
The talc used as a raw material in Example 1 was actually applied to the skin and the transparent plate.
Comparative Example 2
Zinc oxide having an average particle size of 0.3 μm was actually applied to human skin and a transparent plate.
The amount of powder applied to the skin is 10 mg / cm2It was. Table 1 shows optical evaluation and sensory evaluation results in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.
[0042]
[Table 1]
Figure 0004684480
[0043]
Regarding the skin surface reflected light component, when the surface reflected light component at the time of applying the powder composition of the skin evaluation site of the subject is (A), and the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site at the time of non-application is (B), When the incident angle of the irradiation light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface, the light receiving angle is always any angle in the reflection direction of 40 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface. (A) The case where> 0 was evaluated as ○, and the case where it was not was evaluated as ×. Regarding the transparency of the powder, the case where the total light transmittance was 80% or more and the haze was 70% or more was evaluated as ◯, and the case where it was not so was evaluated as ×.
[0044]
Using 16 panelists specializing in sensory evaluation, the sample powder was applied to the skin, and sensory evaluation was performed for comprehensive evaluation focusing on sheer feeling, veil feeling, covering power, and young and beautiful finish. In the evaluation criteria, the number of people who can feel the item was evaluated as ◯, 5 to 12 as Δ, and 1-4 as × in a three-stage evaluation in which the item was felt, felt slightly, or not felt.
Example 4
(1) 20% by weight of the inorganic powder composition of Example 1, (2) remaining amount of talc, (3) 5.0% by weight of sericite, (4) appropriate amount of preservative, (5) appropriate amount of antioxidant, ( 6) About appropriate amount of coloring material As a manufacturing method, (1) to (6) were stirred and mixed with a Henschel mixer and then pulverized to obtain a loose-type garnish.
[0045]
Example 5
(1) Inorganic powder composition of Example 2 15% by weight, (2) Silicone-treated talc remaining amount, (3) Silicone-treated sericite 30% by weight, (4) Silicone-treated mica 10% by weight, (5) Silicone Treated titanium oxide 10% by weight, (6) Preservative appropriate amount, (7) Colorant appropriate amount, (8) Silicone oil 3.5% by weight, (9) Cethyl 2-ethylhexanoate 2.0% by weight, (10) Adsorption refined lanolin 1.0 wt%, (11) Antioxidant As a manufacturing method, (1) to (7) were stirred and mixed in a Henschel mixer, pulverized, mixed and dissolved (8) to (11) The crushed (1) to (7) were stirred and mixed with a Henschel mixer, pulverized again, and pressed into a metal dish container to obtain a solid powder type foundation.
[0046]
Example 6
(1) Inorganic powder composition of Example 3 5% by weight, (2) Mica 20% by weight, (3) Titanium oxide 15% by weight, (4) Nylon powder 5% by weight, (5) Silicone oil 5% by weight , (6) ceresin 6% by weight, (7) squalane 15% by weight, (8) adsorption purified lanolin 10% by weight, (9) carnauba wax 5% by weight, (10) preservative appropriate amount, (11) colorant appropriate amount, (12) Using the remaining amount of cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, (1) to (12) are heated and dissolved and dispersed, followed by three-roll milling and pouring into a metal dish container at 70 ° C. to obtain a solid oil-type foundation. It was.
[0047]
Comparative Example 3
(1) Silicone-treated talc remaining amount, (2) Silicone-treated sericite 30% by weight, (3) Silicone-treated mica 10% by weight, (4) Silicone-treated titanium oxide 10% by weight, (5) Preservative appropriate amount, (6 ) Colorant appropriate amount, (7) Silicone oil 3.5 wt%, (8) Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 2.0 wt%, (9) Adsorbed purified lanolin 1.0 wt%, (10) Antioxidant appropriate amount , And (1) to (6) were stirred and mixed in a Henschel mixer and pulverized, and mixed and dissolved (7) to (10) were pulverized (1) to (6) and stirred and mixed in a Henschel mixer Then, it was pulverized again and pressed into a metal dish container to obtain a solid powder type foundation.
[0048]
FIG. 3 shows the reflected light component on the skin surface when the foundations of Example 5 and Comparative Example 3 are applied. The amount of foundation applied to the skin in the surface reflected light component evaluation is 10 mg / cm2The incident angle of the irradiation light is 35 degrees, and the light receiving angle is 60 degrees in the reflection direction. Table 2 shows the results of transparency evaluation and comprehensive evaluation including sensory evaluation. The foundations of Examples 4 to 6 were excellent cosmetics that were more transparent than Comparative Example 3, were very effective in the texture of the skin, and had the effect of making old skin look younger.
[0049]
[Table 2]
Figure 0004684480
[0050]
[Table 3]
Figure 0004684480
[0051]
【The invention's effect】
The inorganic powder composition of the present invention is particularly useful as a cosmetic ingredient. The evaluation is done by an objective and simple method for the texture of the skin, which is the main factor when a person visually evaluates the youth of the skin, and as a composition that makes the skin look younger and cosmetics containing it. It can be used.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a surface reflected light component of an entire face of a 20-year-old woman.
FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a surface reflected light component of the entire face of a 48-year-old woman.
FIG. 3 is data of a surface reflected light component showing the effectiveness by the evaluation method of the present invention.

Claims (3)

被験者の皮膚評価部位の被験組成物塗布時の表面反射光成分を(A)、無塗布時の皮膚評価部位の表面反射光成分を(B)とした場合、被験者の皮膚評価部位に対して、前記皮膚評価部位に照明光を一方向から拡散照射しそれによる皮膚表面からの表面反射光成分の検出に、(1)偏光板が装着された銀塩カメラ又は電子的カメラの撮影装置を用いて皮膚の内部反射光成分を含む表面反射光成分を最も強調した写真及び皮膚の表面反射光成分を最も除去した写真をそれぞれ撮影する工程、(2)前記照明光の入射角は前記皮膚表面に対して0〜80度、前記表面反射光成分の受光角は前記皮膚表面に対して反射方向15〜80度の範囲で、入射角及び受光角のいずれか1つ以上を異なる少なくとも2方向以上設定する工程、(3)前記両撮影写真のデジタル化、差分処理により皮膚の表面反射光成分画像を得る工程、ならびに(4)前記表面反射光成分画像を多階調に輝度変換し、増幅する工程、を含んで成る方法により、前記(A)及び(B)の表面反射光成分を測定し、前記照射光の入射角が前記皮膚表面に対して20〜70度の何れかの角度である場合の受光角が前記皮膚表面に対して反射方向40〜70度の何れかの角度で、常に(B)−(A)>0である無機粉体組成物であって、当該無機粉体組成物が、
(a)タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化アルミニウム、球状シリカおよびシリカをこの順で被覆して成り、その重量割合がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化アルミニウム:球状シリカ:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:8〜20:10〜24:5〜15重量%である無機粉体組成物;または
(b)タルクに、酸化チタン、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化アルミニウムおよびシリカをこの順で被覆して成り、その重量割合がタルク:酸化チタン:酸化ジルコニウム:酸化アルミニウム:シリカ=40〜60:3〜13:5〜15:12〜24:5〜15重量%である無機粉体組成物;
のいずれかであることを特徴とする無機粉体組成物。
When the surface reflected light component at the time of application of the test composition of the subject's skin evaluation site is (A) and the surface reflected light component of the skin evaluation site at the time of non-application is (B), For the detection of the surface reflected light component from the skin surface by irradiating illumination light to the skin evaluation site from one direction, (1) using a photographing device of a silver salt camera or an electronic camera equipped with a polarizing plate. A step of taking a photograph in which the surface reflection light component including the internal reflection light component of the skin is most emphasized and a photograph in which the surface reflection light component of the skin is most removed; (2) The incident angle of the illumination light is relative to the skin surface 0 to 80 degrees, the light receiving angle of the surface reflected light component is in the range of 15 to 80 degrees in the reflection direction with respect to the skin surface, and at least two different incident angles and light receiving angles are set. Process, (3) both photography A method comprising: obtaining a surface reflection light component image of the skin by true digitization and difference processing; and (4) converting and amplifying the luminance of the surface reflection light component image in multiple gradations, The surface reflected light components of (A) and (B) are measured, and the light reception angle when the incident angle of the irradiation light is any angle of 20 to 70 degrees with respect to the skin surface is relative to the skin surface in any angle in the direction of reflection of 40 to 70 degrees Te, always (B) - (a)> 0 a is an inorganic powder composition, the inorganic powder composition,
(a) Talc is coated with titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, spherical silica and silica in this order, and the weight ratio is talc: titanium oxide: aluminum oxide: spherical silica: silica = 40-60: 3-13: An inorganic powder composition of 8-20: 10-24: 5-15% by weight; or
(B) Talc is coated with titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide and silica in this order, and the weight ratio is talc: titanium oxide: zirconium oxide: aluminum oxide: silica = 40-60: 3-13: An inorganic powder composition of 5-15: 12-24: 5-15% by weight;
An inorganic powder composition characterized by being any one of the following.
全光線透過率が80%以上、ヘーズが70%以上である請求項1記載の無機粉体組成物(ただし、全光線透過率およびヘーズは、塗膜中の粉体の含有量が25重量%となるようにクリアラッカーに分散させた後、この塗料を透明フィルムに塗布乾燥して得た膜厚が5μmの塗膜を試料としてJIS K 7105又はJIS K 7136に規定された方法により測定する)。  2. The inorganic powder composition according to claim 1, wherein the total light transmittance is 80% or more and the haze is 70% or more (provided that the total light transmittance and haze have a powder content of 25% by weight in the coating film). After being dispersed in a clear lacquer so that the coating film becomes a coating film having a film thickness of 5 μm obtained by applying and drying this paint on a transparent film, it is measured by the method prescribed in JIS K 7105 or JIS K 7136) . 請求項1または2のいずれかに記載の無機粉体組成物を0.1〜90重量%含有することを特徴とする化粧料。A cosmetic comprising 0.1 to 90% by weight of the inorganic powder composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 .
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