JP4228108B2 - Special texture polyester fabric - Google Patents
Special texture polyester fabric Download PDFInfo
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- JP4228108B2 JP4228108B2 JP16840398A JP16840398A JP4228108B2 JP 4228108 B2 JP4228108 B2 JP 4228108B2 JP 16840398 A JP16840398 A JP 16840398A JP 16840398 A JP16840398 A JP 16840398A JP 4228108 B2 JP4228108 B2 JP 4228108B2
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- multifilament yarn
- polyester
- fabric
- polyester multifilament
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は特殊風合ポリエステル織物に関し、さらに詳しくは清涼感と張り腰感およびナチュラルな斑感を有するポリエステル織物に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来、ポリエステル織物にドライな風合をもたせる手法として、単繊維横断面形状が多葉型であるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を使用することが知られている。しかし該織物にドレープ性を付与すべく該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸に撚りを加えると、織物の風合が逆に粗硬な風合になるという欠点があった。
また、ポリエステル織物に天然繊維の様な斑感をもたせる手法として、繊維軸方向に太細斑を有するいわゆるシックアンドシン糸を使用することが知られている。しかし、シックアンドシン糸は不均一延伸で得られるために、未延伸部（シック部）が外力に対し容易に変形するため、該シックアンドシン糸を使用した織物は張り腰が不足するという欠点があった。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は清涼感と張り腰感およびナチュラルな斑感が望まれる用途に最適なポリエステル織物を提供することである。
【０００４】
【課題を解決するための手段】
即ち、本発明は、単繊維横断面形状が異型度２．５〜３．５のＹ字状三葉型のフィラメントを主体として構成された５％伸張時応力が０．９ｇ／ｄ〜１．４ｇ／ｄの交絡度が５〜８０ヶ／ｍのインタ−レ−ス交絡処理されたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａと、中空丸状断面のフィラメントを主体として構成された繊維軸方向に１５％〜７０％の太細斑を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂとが下記（１）式に示す撚係数が１３０００〜２６０００となるような合撚数で合撚された糸を経糸及び／又は緯糸に使用してなることを特徴とする特殊風合ポリエステル織物である。
撚係数=((DA+DB) の平方根) ×合撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）……（１）式
ここでDAはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａのデニールであり、DBはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂのデニールである。
【０００５】
以下に本発明のポリエステル織物について詳述する。本発明のでいうＹ字状三葉型の断面とは図１に示すものであり、また異型度は同図１に示す様に三つの葉部の外接円直径（Ｇ）と断面中心部の内接円直径（Ｎ）の比、Ｇ／Ｎである。
マルチフィラメント糸Ａの５％伸張時応力はテンシロン引張器を使用して下記条件で測定した５％伸張時応力（ｇ／ｄ）である。
初荷重：０．１ｇ／ｄ、試料長：２００mm
引張速度：２００mm／分、記録計速度：２００mm／分
【０００６】
本発明で使用するマルチフィラメント糸Ａの単繊維横断面形状は異型度２．５以上、３．５以下のＹ字状三葉型であることが肝要である。異型度が２．５未満であると清涼感は得られない。逆に３．５を越えると織物風合は粗硬なものになり、本発明の所期の目的とする清涼感は得られない。
【０００７】
マルチフィラメント糸Ａにはインターレース交絡度が５〜８０ヶ／ｍ付与されていることも重要である。インターレース交絡度が５〜８０ヶ／ｍの範囲であると、マルチフィラメント糸Ａとマルチフィラメント糸Ｂが合撚される際に、マルチフィラメント糸Ａの単繊維断面の凸部（葉部）と葉部と葉部の間の凹部がフィラメント間で互いにかみ合い最密充填されるのを防ぐことができ、結果としてフィラメント間に空隙が生じることになり、織物は粗硬な風合にならない。マルチフィラメント糸Ａのインターレース交絡度が５ヶ／ｍ未満であると、マルチフィラメント糸Ａとマルチフィラメント糸Ｂが合撚される際に、マルチフィラメント糸Ａ内のフィラメントが自由に移動し、結果としてフィラメント同志で凸部と凹部がかみ合い、フィラメント間の空隙が無くなり、織物風合は粗硬なものになる。また、マルチフィラメント糸Ａのインターレース交絡度が８０ヶ／ｍを越えると、交絡点が織物風合を粗硬なものとなる。好ましくは10〜60ヶ／ｍである。
【０００８】
さらに、マルチフィラメント糸Ａの５％伸張時応力は０．９ｇ／ｄ以上、１．４ｇ／ｄ以下であることが重要である。０．９ｇ／ｄ〜１．４ｇ／ｄであると本発明の清涼感が得られる。この理由は、５％伸張時応力で示される繊維の初期抵抗力が織物になったときの風合（抵抗力が小さ過ぎると清涼感がなく、逆に大き過ぎると粗硬になる）に現れるものと考えられる。５％伸張時応力が０．９ｇ／ｄ未満であると、清涼感が得られないし、逆にこれが１．４ｇ／ｄを越えると織物風合は粗硬なものになる。好ましくは0.95〜1.35ｇ／ｄである。
【０００９】
本発明で使用するマルチフィラメント糸Ｂは中空丸状断面のフィラメントであることが重要である。マルチフィラメント糸Ａとマルチフィラメント糸Ｂの単繊維横断面が両方とも葉部を有する形状であると、織物風合が粗硬になり本発明の目的を達成することが困難となる。もう一つの理由は、マルチフィラメント糸Ａとマルチフィラメント糸Ｂが合撚される際に、マルチフィラメント糸Ｂの単繊維横断面の外周が丸状以外であると、マルチフィラメント糸Ｂの単繊維横断面の中空形状が潰れやすくなるためである。また、中空率（面積比率）は５％以上３５％以下であることが望ましい。中空率が５％未満であると張り腰感が不足し、逆に３５％を越えると織物の風合は堅くなるため好ましくない。
【００１０】
また、マルチフィラメント糸Ｂは繊維軸方向に１５％以上の太細斑を有することが重要である。これは織物にナチュラルな杢調外観を付与するために必要である。マルチフィラメント糸Ｂの太細斑は計測器工業社製ウースターイーブネステスターを使用して下記条件で測定、算出した値である。測定：ノルマルテスト。糸速５０ｍ／分で２分間測定。記録計速度２．５ｃｍ／分。平均デニールが記録紙の中央になるように調節しておく
算出：得られた記録紙５ｃｍを２等分し、各々の区域の最大値をＨ１、Ｈ２、最小値をＬ１、Ｌ２とする。
太細斑（％)=｛ abs(Ｈ１＋Ｈ２）｝/２＋｛ abs(Ｌ１＋Ｌ２）｝/２
（注)abs（Ｘ）はＸの絶対値
太細斑が１５％未満であると太部と細部の差が小さく本発明の斑感が得られない。逆に太細斑が７０％を越えると斑の程度が強くなり過ぎるため、本発明の目的を達成することが困難となる。好ましくは20〜60％である。
【００１１】
本発明の織物は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａとポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂとを下記（１）式に示す撚係数が１３０００以上、２６０００以下となるような合撚数で合撚された糸を経糸およびまたは緯糸に使用することが必要である。
撚係数=((DA+DB) の平方根) ×合撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）……（１）式
ここでDAはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａのデニールであり、DBはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂのデニールである。
撚係数が１３０００未満であると、清涼感のある織物が得られない。逆に撚係数が２６０００を越えると織物は粗硬な風合になり本発明の目的を達成することが困難となる。好ましくは 15000〜23000 である。
【００１２】
【実施例】
（実施例１〜３，比較例１〜１０）
ポリエチレンテレフタレートセミダルレジンを通常の紡糸、延伸により表１に示すポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａとポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂを得、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａとポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂを合撚（経糸はＳ撚Ｚ撚の２本交互、緯糸はＳ撚）した後、経糸および緯糸として平織物を製織し（経糸密度１０４本/inch 、緯糸密度７６本/in)、次いで通常のワッシャーによる揉み加工、アルカリ減量、染色、セット工程を通した。なお減量率はすべての例においてほぼ２０％とした。得られた織物の風合を官能評価により○、△、×の評価した。
【００１３】
【表１】
【表２】
【表３】
表１から明らかなように本発明にかかる織物は清涼感及び張り腰に富み、ナチュラルな斑感のあるものであった。
【００１７】
【発明の効果】
本発明によると従来の技術では達し得なかった、清涼感と張り腰感およびナチュラルな斑感を併せ持つことが望まれる用途、例えば盛夏用カジュアルパンツ等に最適なポリエステル織物を提供することを可能とした。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメントAの主要部を構成するフィラメントの断面形状の模式図。
【符号の説明】
１：外接円、２：内接円。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a special textured polyester woven fabric, and more particularly to a polyester woven fabric having a refreshing feeling, a tight waist feeling and a natural mottled feeling.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, it is known to use a polyester multifilament yarn having a multifilament type single fiber cross-sectional shape as a technique for giving a dry texture to a polyester fabric. However, when the polyester multifilament yarn is twisted to impart draping properties to the woven fabric, there is a disadvantage that the texture of the woven fabric becomes a rough and hard texture.
In addition, as a technique for giving a polyester fabric a texture like natural fibers, it is known to use a so-called thick and thin thread having thick spots in the fiber axis direction. However, since the thick and thin yarn is obtained by non-uniform stretching, the unstretched portion (chic portion) is easily deformed by an external force, so that the fabric using the thick and thin yarn has a shortage of tension. was there.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester fabric that is most suitable for applications in which a refreshing feeling, a tension feeling and a natural spot feeling are desired.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, according to the present invention, a stress at 5% elongation of 0.9 g / d to 1. 15% to 70% in the fiber axis direction mainly composed of interlaced polyester multifilament yarn A having an interlacing degree of 4 g / d of 5 to 80 / m and a filament having a hollow circular cross section. % Of the polyester multifilament yarn B having thick and thin spots is used as a warp and / or weft as a twisted yarn having a twisting coefficient of 13,000 to 26000 shown in the following formula (1): It is a special texture polyester fabric characterized by
Twist factor = (square root of (DA + DB)) x number of twists (T / m) (1) formula where DA is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn A and DB is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn B It is.
[0005]
The polyester fabric of the present invention is described in detail below. The cross section of the Y-shaped trilobal shape referred to in the present invention is as shown in FIG. 1, and the degree of irregularity is as shown in FIG. 1 in the circumscribed circle diameter (G) of the three leaf portions and the center of the cross section. The ratio of the tangent circle diameter (N) is G / N.
The stress at 5% elongation of the multifilament yarn A is 5% elongation stress (g / d) measured under the following conditions using a Tensilon tensioner.
Initial load: 0.1 g / d, sample length: 200 mm
Tensile speed: 200 mm / min, recorder speed: 200 mm / min
It is important that the single-filament cross-sectional shape of the multifilament yarn A used in the present invention is a Y-shaped trilobal shape having a degree of profile of 2.5 or more and 3.5 or less. If the degree of atypicality is less than 2.5, a refreshing feeling cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.5, the texture of the fabric becomes rough and the desired refreshing feeling of the present invention cannot be obtained.
[0007]
It is also important that the multifilament yarn A has an interlace entanglement degree of 5 to 80 / m. When the interlace entanglement is in the range of 5 to 80 / m, when the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B are twisted together, the convex portions (leaf portions) and leaves of the single filament cross section of the multifilament yarn A It is possible to prevent the concave portion between the leaf portion and the leaf portion from interengaging with each other between the filaments to be close-packed. As a result, voids are formed between the filaments, and the fabric does not have a rough texture. When the interlace entanglement degree of the multifilament yarn A is less than 5 / m, when the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B are twisted, the filament in the multifilament yarn A moves freely, and as a result Protrusions and recesses engage with each other between the filaments, and there is no gap between the filaments, and the fabric texture becomes rough. Moreover, when the interlace entanglement degree of the multifilament yarn A exceeds 80 pcs / m, the entanglement point makes the fabric texture rough. Preferably it is 10-60 pieces / m.
[0008]
Furthermore, it is important that the stress at 5% elongation of the multifilament yarn A is 0.9 g / d or more and 1.4 g / d or less. The refreshing feeling of this invention is acquired as it is 0.9 g / d-1.4 g / d. The reason for this appears in the texture when the initial resistance of the fiber indicated by the stress at 5% elongation becomes a woven fabric (when the resistance is too small, there is no refreshing feeling; It is considered a thing. If the stress at 5% elongation is less than 0.9 g / d, a refreshing feeling cannot be obtained. Conversely, if it exceeds 1.4 g / d, the texture of the fabric becomes coarse. Preferably it is 0.95-1.35 g / d.
[0009]
It is important that the multifilament yarn B used in the present invention is a filament having a hollow round cross section. If the single filament cross sections of the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B are both in a shape having leaves, the fabric texture becomes coarse and it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention. Another reason is that when the outer periphery of the cross section of the single filament of the multifilament yarn B is other than round when the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B are twisted, the single filament crossing of the multifilament yarn B This is because the hollow shape of the surface is easily crushed. The hollowness ratio (area ratio) is desirably 5% or more and 35% or less. If the hollow ratio is less than 5%, the tightness is insufficient, and if it exceeds 35%, the texture of the fabric becomes stiff, which is not preferable.
[0010]
Further, it is important that the multifilament yarn B has 15% or more thick spots in the fiber axis direction. This is necessary to give the fabric a natural tone appearance. The thick and thin spots of the multifilament yarn B are values measured and calculated under the following conditions using a Wooster Eve Tester manufactured by Keiki Kogyo Co., Ltd. Measurement: Normal test. Measured for 2 minutes at a yarn speed of 50 m / min. Recorder speed 2.5 cm / min. Calculation in which the average denier is adjusted so as to be in the center of the recording paper: The obtained recording paper 5 cm is divided into two equal parts, and the maximum value of each area is H1, H2, and the minimum value is L1, L2.
Thick spot (%) = {abs (H1 + H2)} / 2+ {abs (L1 + L2)} / 2
(Note) If abs (X) is less than 15% in absolute value of X, the difference between the thick part and the details is so small that the spots of the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the thick spots exceed 70%, the degree of the spots becomes too strong, and it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention. Preferably it is 20 to 60%.
[0011]
The woven fabric of the present invention is a warp yarn obtained by twisting a polyester multifilament yarn A and a polyester multifilament yarn B at a twisting number such that the twisting coefficient represented by the following formula (1) is 13,000 or more and 26000 or less. Or it must be used for weft.
Twist factor = (square root of (DA + DB)) x number of twists (T / m) (1) formula where DA is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn A and DB is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn B It is.
If the twist coefficient is less than 13,000, a fabric with a refreshing feeling cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the twisting coefficient exceeds 26000, the fabric has a rough texture and it becomes difficult to achieve the object of the present invention. Preferably it is 15000-23000.
[0012]
【Example】
(Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-10)
Polyester terephthalate semidal resin is spun and drawn to obtain polyester multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B shown in Table 1, and polyester multifilament yarn A and polyester multifilament yarn B are twisted together (warp is S twist Z After twisting two alternates, weft is S-twisted, weaving a plain fabric as warp and weft (104 warp density / inch, 76 weft density / in), then weaving with a normal washer, alkali weight loss, The dyeing and setting process was passed. The weight loss rate was almost 20% in all examples. The texture of the obtained woven fabric was evaluated for ○, Δ, and × by sensory evaluation.
[0013]
[Table 1]
[Table 2]
[Table 3]
As is clear from Table 1, the fabric according to the present invention was rich in refreshing feeling and tension, and had a natural spot feeling.
[0017]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a polyester woven fabric that is optimal for a use that is desired to have both a refreshing feeling, a tight waist feeling, and a natural spot feeling, such as casual pants for midsummer, which could not be achieved by conventional techniques. did.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a cross-sectional shape of a filament constituting a main part of a polyester multifilament A of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: circumscribed circle, 2: inscribed circle.
Claims (1)
撚係数=((DA+DB) の平方根) ×合撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）……（１）式
ここでDAはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ａのデニールであり、DBはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸Ｂのデニールである。Concentration of 5% elongation stress of 0.9 g / d to 1.4 g / d, mainly composed of Y-shaped trilobal filaments having a single fiber cross-sectional shape of 2.5 to 3.5. 5 to 80 / m interlaced polyester multifilament yarn A and hollow round cross-section filaments composed mainly of 15% to 70% thick spots in the fiber axis direction The polyester multifilament yarn B has a twisted yarn having a twisting coefficient of 13,000 to 26000 shown in the following formula (1), and is used for warp and / or weft. Special texture polyester fabric.
Twist factor = (square root of (DA + DB)) x number of twists (T / m) (1) formula where DA is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn A and DB is the denier of polyester multifilament yarn B It is.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP16840398A JP4228108B2 (en) | 1998-06-16 | 1998-06-16 | Special texture polyester fabric |
| TW88108283A TW558572B (en) | 1998-06-03 | 1999-05-20 | Polyester multi-filaments with a cross section of Y-shape trefoil and texfiles using them |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP16840398A JP4228108B2 (en) | 1998-06-16 | 1998-06-16 | Special texture polyester fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2000008243A JP2000008243A (en) | 2000-01-11 |
| JP4228108B2 true JP4228108B2 (en) | 2009-02-25 |
Family
ID=15867484
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP16840398A Expired - Fee Related JP4228108B2 (en) | 1998-06-03 | 1998-06-16 | Special texture polyester fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP4228108B2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100464835B1 (en) * | 2002-12-03 | 2005-01-05 | 한국섬유개발연구원 | Method of producing polyester interlaced yarn with high-thermal- insulation and light-weight |
| CN106987917A (en) * | 2017-04-21 | 2017-07-28 | 常熟涤纶有限公司 | A kind of processing technology of three leaves special polyester silk |
-
1998
- 1998-06-16 JP JP16840398A patent/JP4228108B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2000008243A (en) | 2000-01-11 |
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