JP3946681B2 - 毛髪化粧料 - Google Patents
毛髪化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP3946681B2 JP3946681B2 JP2003331468A JP2003331468A JP3946681B2 JP 3946681 B2 JP3946681 B2 JP 3946681B2 JP 2003331468 A JP2003331468 A JP 2003331468A JP 2003331468 A JP2003331468 A JP 2003331468A JP 3946681 B2 JP3946681 B2 JP 3946681B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- group
- hair
- branched
- carbon atoms
- represented
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- 239000003676 hair preparation Substances 0.000 title claims description 15
- -1 nitrogen-containing compound Chemical class 0.000 claims description 99
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- 125000005647 linker group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 37
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 32
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 29
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 24
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 17
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical group [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
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- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
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- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 3
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- ULUAUXLGCMPNKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfobutanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(C(O)=O)S(O)(=O)=O ULUAUXLGCMPNKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 125000003302 alkenyloxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
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- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
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- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000000816 ethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 3
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 3
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- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 3
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- ZORQXIQZAOLNGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1-difluorocyclohexane Chemical compound FC1(F)CCCCC1 ZORQXIQZAOLNGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
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Description
本発明において、分岐ポリグリセロール鎖は、分岐基として1個以上の構造式(1)で表わされる分岐グリセロール基(以下、基(1)という)を含有する。分岐ポリグリセロール鎖は、a個の基(1)、b個の構造式(2)で表されるグリシドール基(以下、基(2)という)、c個の構造式(3)で表されるグリセロール基(以下、基(3)という)、及び末端基としてd個の構造式(4)で表されるグリセロール基(以下、基(4)という)が結合して形成されるものである。
本発明の分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンにおける、シリコーンのケイ素原子と、前述の分岐ポリグリセロール鎖を結合する連結基は、エーテル基を有する2価又は3価の基であることが好ましい。
(式中、R1は、置換基を有していてもよい、炭素数1〜22の直鎖若しくは分岐鎖のアルキレン基、アルケニレン基又は炭素数6〜28のアリーレン基、A1Oは炭素数1〜4のアルキレンオキシ基(オキシアルキレン基ともいう)又は炭素数6〜10のアリーレンオキシ基(オキシアリーレン基ともいう)、pは0〜30の数を示し、p個のA1Oは同一でも異なっていてもよい。)
連結基(5)において、R1中のアリーレン基は、アルキレンアリーレン基、アリーレンアルキレン基、アルキレンアリーレンアルキレン基を含む。R1として好ましいアルキレン基又はアルケニレン基は、炭素数1〜16、特に好ましくは1〜12のアルキレン基又はアルケニレン基であり、メチレン、エチレン、プロピレン、トリメチレン、ブチレン、テトラメチレン、ペンタメチレン、ヘキサメチレン、ヘプタメチレン、オクタメチレン、ノナメチレン、デカメチレン、ウンデカメチレン、ドデカメチレン、トリデカメチレン、テトラデカメチレン、ペンタデカメチレン、ヘキサデカメチレン基等が挙げられ、R1として好ましいアリーレン基としては、アルキレン基の炭素数が1〜22のアルキレンフェニレン基が挙げられ、トリメチレンフェニレン基が好ましい。これらR1の中ではエチレン基、プロピレン基、トリメチレン基又はトリメチレンフェニレン基がさらに好ましく、原料の合成の容易さの観点からは、エチレン基、トリメチレン基又はトリメチレンフェニレン基が特に好ましい。
本発明の分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンを形成するシリコーンは、ケイ素原子を2つ以上有するポリシロキサンから誘導されるものであり、ポリシロキサンの形状は直鎖状、分岐鎖状、環状の何れであってもよい。また、ポリシロキサンの数平均分子量は、好ましくは300〜70万、より好ましくは300〜20万、更に好ましくは1000〜2万である。数平均分子量は、ゲル・パーミエーション・クロマトグラフ(以下、GPCという)法や、光散乱法等により求めることが出来る。
シリコーン(9)において、R2、R3、R4、t個のR5、t個のR6、R7、R8、R9のうち分岐ポリグリセロール鎖が結合した連結基以外の基は、同一又は異なって、置換基を有していてもよい炭素数1〜22の直鎖若しくは分岐鎖のアルキル基、アルケニル基又はアルコキシ基、あるいは炭素数6〜22のアリール基であるが、炭素数1〜22のアルキル基としては、例えばメチル、エチル、プロピル、イソプロピル、ブチル、t−ブチル、ペンチル、ヘキシル、ヘプチル、オクチル、ノニル、トリフルオロプロピル基等が挙げられ、炭素数1〜22のアルケニル基としては、ビニル基やアリル基が挙げられ、炭素数1〜22のアルコキシ基としては、例えばメトキシ、エトキシ、プロポキシ、ブトキシ、ペンチルオキシ、ヘキシルオキシ、ヘプチルオキシ、オクチルオキシ、フェノキシ基等が挙げられる。炭素数6〜22のアリール基としてはフェニル基等が挙げられる。これらの中では、炭素数1〜12の直鎖若しくは分岐鎖のアルキル基、ビニル基、アリル基、又はフェニル基が好ましく、特に好ましくはメチル基、エチル基、プロピル基又はフェニル基である。このうち、汎用性及び価格の点からはメチル基がより好ましいが、耐熱性の点からはフェニル基がより好ましい。
本発明の毛髪化粧料中、本発明の分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンの含有量は、その毛髪化粧料の目的に応じて適宜選択することができ、特に限定されるものではないが、0.0001〜50質量%が好ましく、0.001〜30質量%がより好ましく、0.05〜15質量%が更に好ましく、0.1〜12質量%が特に好ましく、0.5〜10質量%が最も好ましい。
このようなアミン化合物として、炭素数16〜24の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を有する、N−アルコキシプロピル−N,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルケニルオキシプロピル−N,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルカノイルアミノプロピルーN,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルキルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルケニルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルキルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジエチルアミン、N−アルケニルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジエチルアミン等が例示できる。
このようなアミン塩又はアンモニウム塩としては、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム等のアルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩、塩化ジステアリルジメチルアンモニウム等のジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム塩、塩化ポリ(N,N−ジメチル−3,5−メチレンピペリジニウム)、塩化セチルピリジニウム等のアルキルピリジニウム塩、アルキルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム塩、アルキルイソキノリニウム塩、ジアルキルモリホニウム塩、ポリオキシエチレン(以下POEという)アルキルアミン塩、アルキルアミン塩、ポリアミン脂肪酸誘導体、アミルアルコール脂肪酸誘導体、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化ベンゼトニウムや、前記の炭素数16〜24の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基を有する、N−アルコキシプロピル−N,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルカノイルアミノプロピルーN,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルキルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジメチルアミン、N−アルキルアミノカルボニルメチルーN,N−ジエチルアミン等の塩酸塩、乳酸塩、シュウ酸塩、コハク酸塩又はリンゴ酸塩等が例示できる。
0.6−0.7ppm:Si−CH 2 −CH2−(4H)
1.5−1.7ppm:Si−CH2−CH 2 −(4H)
2.4−2.7ppm:Si−CH2−CH2−CH 2 −(4H)
3.3−4.0ppm:分岐ポリグリセロール鎖のH(末端ヒドロキシ基除く、5H×グリセロール基の数)
6.7−7.2ppm:フェノール(8H)
また、13C−NMRスペクトル中、分岐ポリグリセロール鎖を形成する基(1)〜(4)の各炭素由来のピークの帰属は、Macromolecules,1999,32,4240記載の値を参考にした。
フェノール変性シリコーン(東レ・ダウコーニング(株)製、商品名;BY16−752[両末端変性、比重=0.99g/mL、粘度=110cSt、ヒドロキシ基当量=1500(平均分子量=3000相当)、GPC(カラム:G4000HXL+G2000HXL(東ソー(株)製)、THF溶液(50mmol/L酢酸添加)、40℃、ポリスチレン換算)実測値;数平均分子量(Mn)=2340、重量平均分子量(Mw)=4780])450gをフラスコに取り、1M水酸化カリウム エタノール溶液15mLを加え、撹拌しながら減圧下に95℃まで加温し、淡橙色油状物としてカリウム化フェノール変性シリコーンを得た。激しく撹拌しながらアルゴン気流下にグリシドール77.8g(3.5当量)を定量送液ポンプを用いて5時間かけて添加した。20分間さらに加熱撹拌後、室温まで冷却すると、淡黄色粘稠油状生成物が得られた。得られた分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンにエタノール500mLを加え、カチオン交換樹脂によりカリウムを除去、濃縮し、微黄色油状物として分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンAを得た(収率99.5%)。 13C−NMRスペクトルの解析により、基(1)のメチン炭素由来のシグナル(78.0〜81.0ppm)の存在から、基(1)を有する分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンであることを確認した。また1H−NMRスペクトルの解析により、平均グリセロール基数(G)=7.0(片側 3.5 )、平均ケイ素原子数(Si)=33.5、G/Si比は0.21であり、GPC解析に依れば、数平均分子量(Mn)は2850であった。
フェノール変性シリコーン(信越化学工業(株)製 X−22−1821[両末端変性、比重=0.99g/mL、粘度=110cSt、ヒドロキシ基当量=32mgKOH/g(平均分子量=3500相当)])200gをフラスコに取り、カリウムメトキシド30%メタノール溶液8.01gを加え、攪拌しながら減圧下に60℃まで加温して、メタノールを全て留去し、黄色油状物としてカリウム化フェノール変性シリコーンを得た。95℃まで昇温し、激しく攪拌しながらアルゴン気流下にグリシドール21.2g(2.5当量)を定量液送ポンプを用いて4時間にわたり添加した。15分間さらに加熱攪拌後、室温まで放冷すると、透明微黄色ペースト状生成物が得られた。得られた分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンをカチオン交換処理で脱塩後に濃縮し、高粘度微黄色油状物質として分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンB(213g)を得た。収率96.2%。13C−NMRスペクトルの解析により、基(1)のメチン炭素由来のシグナル(78.0〜81.0ppm)の存在から、基(1)を有する分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンであることを確認した。また1H−NMRスペクトルの解析により、平均グリセロール基数(G)=5.2(片側 2.6)、平均ケイ素原子数(Si)=38.5、G/Si比は0.14であった。
表1に示す組成の本発明及び比較のリンス組成物を調製し、下記方法で配合安定性及び感触に関する官能評価を行った。結果を表1に示す。
リンス組成物を50℃で3ヶ月間保存し、目視で外観の変化(成分の分離・分層、濁り等)を観察し、下記基準で評価した。
○:成分の分離・分層、及び濁りが見られない
×:成分の分離・分層、あるいは濁りが見られる
<感触に関する官能評価法>
下記方法に従って毛髪処理を行い、専門のパネラーが感触に関する官能評価を行った。官能評価は下記の判定基準に従って行った。
・洗髪方法
試験用毛髪束(日本人女性毛を5回累積ブリーチ処理したダメージ毛、長さ;約15cm、質量;20g)を40℃の温水で十分に濡らした後、リンス組成物3gを塗布した。全体に十分に馴染ませた後、30秒間温水で濯ぎを行った。タオルドライを行い、軽くブラッシングしながらドライヤーで乾燥させた後、感触評価を行った。
・感触評価基準
毛髪のすべり感
○:毛髪にすべり感が付与され、非常にさらさらする
△:毛髪に多少すべり感が付与され、ややさらさらする
×:毛髪にすべり感がなく、きしむ
毛髪の柔軟性
○:毛髪がなめらかで、非常に柔らかい
△:毛髪がややなめらかで、やや柔らかい
×:毛髪がごわつく
毛髪のつや/光沢
○:毛髪がつややかで、光沢に富む
△:毛髪がややつややかで、多少光沢がある
×:毛髪につやがなく、荒れた外観を呈する
毛髪のまとまり易さ
○:毛髪のまとまりが大変良好で、位相が揃っている
△:毛髪のまとまりはやや良好だが、位相があまり揃っていない
×:毛髪が全くまとまらない
表2に示す組成の毛髪化粧料
表3に示す組成の毛髪化粧料
表4に示す組成の毛髪化粧料
Claims (7)
- 下記構造式(1)、(2)、(3)又は(4)で表されるグリセロール基又はグリシドール基が平均して3個以上結合し、かつ、構造式(1)で表される分岐グリセロール基を少なくとも1つ含む分岐ポリグリセロール鎖が、一般式(5)で表される2価の基、一般式(6)で表される3価の基及び一般式(8)で表される3価の基から選ばれる連結基を介して、シリコーンのケイ素原子に少なくとも1つ結合した分岐ポリグリセロール変性シリコーンを含有する毛髪化粧料。
(式中、R 1 は、置換基を有していてもよい、炭素数1〜22の直鎖若しくは分岐鎖のアルキレン基、アルケニレン基又は炭素数6〜28のアリーレン基、A 1 Oは炭素数1〜4のアルキレンオキシ基(オキシアルキレン基ともいう)又は炭素数6〜10のアリーレンオキシ基(オキシアリーレン基ともいう)、pは0〜30の数を示し、p個のA 1 Oは同一でも異なっていてもよい。)
- 更に、窒素含有化合物を含有する、請求項1又は2記載の毛髪化粧料。
- 更に、脂肪族アルコールを含有する、請求項1〜3いずれかに記載の毛髪化粧料。
- 更に、ノニオン界面活性剤、アニオン界面活性剤及び両性界面活性剤から選ばれる少なくとも1種の界面活性剤を含有する請求項1〜4いずれかに記載の毛髪化粧料。
- 更に、常温での融点が40℃以上の賦形成分を含有する、請求項1〜5いずれかに記載の毛髪化粧料。
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