JP3425978B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a cosmetic containing a hydroxyphospholipid, which is excellent in safety, moisturizing properties and touch, and more particularly to an aqueous transparent cosmetic.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, studies have been conducted on the use of naturally-occurring surfactants in cosmetics, avoiding synthetic surfactants. This is based on the fact that synthetic surfactants have been pointed out to have safety problems such as irritation, and the social demand that they are oriented towards natural products that are kind to nature. Therefore, as a naturally-occurring surfactant, phospholipids, which are known to have excellent safety, excellent moisturizing properties, and emulsifying action, are drawing attention.

However, phospholipids, even purified glycerophospholipids excluding neutral lipids, have poor color, odor, etc., and the degree of unsaturation of the alkyl group in the molecule (evaluated by iodine value) is high. It has a drawback that it is easily deteriorated by heat or light over time. Furthermore, its low hydrophilicity limits its use in cosmetics.

Here, phospholipids are lipids containing phosphoric acid, and glycerophospholipids and sphingophospholipids are known as natural products, and in recent years, studies on phospholipid synthesis have been conducted.

Glycerophospholipids are present in plants and animals, and include phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine,
Phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol,
It is a general term for phosphatidic acid and the like. Currently marketed products include soybeans, corn, cottonseed, plant nuts such as peanuts, and animal products represented by egg yolks, and most of them are derived from soybeans, corns, and egg yolks.

Hydroxylated phospholipids having improved stability, dispersibility and water solubility are described in US Pat. No. 2,445,948. Hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid, or hydrogen peroxide and a catalytic amount of concentrated sulfuric acid are used as a hydroxylating agent, and a phospholipid whose unsaturation degree is lowered by about 5 to 50 in iodine value from the phospholipid used as a raw material is used. can get. In the examples, the iodine value is 45-7.
5 hydroxylated phospholipids are described.

However, the improved dispersibility and water solubility are for hydroxylated phospholipids themselves, and the emulsification and solubilization properties are not described. Further in the food industry,
Although there is a statement that it can be applied to the textile industry, its use in cosmetics is completely unknown.

[0008] Furthermore, hydrogenated and purified glycerophospholipids having improved stability, which is one of the drawbacks of phospholipids in recent years, and lysophospholipid obtained by enzymatically decomposing phospholipids, which has another drawback of improving water solubility, are commercially available. It is now used in cosmetics.

An emulsion type cosmetic or a solubilizing type water-based transparent cosmetic as a lysophospholipid-containing cosmetic is disclosed in JP-A-61-
112007, JP 61-171407 A, JP 61
-176511, JP-A-61-183207, JP-A-6-
1-186305, JP-A-61-243009, JP-A-61-291514 and JP-A-2-169507, which act mildly on the skin (skin) and have excellent emulsifying or solubilizing properties, It is said that a cosmetic having good storage stability, feel, moisture retention, usability and appearance can be obtained.

[0010]

Most of the surfactants used in cosmetics are O / W type emulsions (systems in which an oily substance is emulsified and solubilized in water), and therefore lipophilic like phospholipids. In order to use the substance as an emulsifier, a hydrophilic synthetic surfactant must be used in combination. In addition, a large amount of hydrophilic surfactant has to be used in the preparation of a water-based transparent cosmetic, which cannot be used as a cosmetic. In addition, phospholipids are likely to deteriorate with time due to heat and light, which also makes it difficult to use them in cosmetics.

The hydroxylated phospholipid described in US Pat. No. 2,445,948 has an iodine value of about 45 to 75, and has a water solubility, an emulsifying power, and
The solubilizing power is not always sufficient. Moreover, in the process of producing hydroxylated phospholipids, a large excess of organic acid is removed by concentration under reduced pressure, and a small amount of mineral acid added is neutralized, but the inorganic salt produced by the neutralization remains and remains. . It is also unsuitable for cosmetics in that a large amount of salt remains.

As described above, hydrogenated purified glycerophospholipids and lysophospholipids are ones in which the drawbacks of phospholipids have been improved. However, hydrogenated purified glycerophospholipids have high stability but poor water solubility. On the other hand, water-soluble lysophospholipids generally have a high degree of unsaturation and an iodine value of 40 to 50, and their stability cannot be said to be sufficient. It is easy to deteriorate. If hydrogenation is carried out for the purpose of eliminating this drawback, there remains a problem that the water solubility is lowered.

As described above, most of the lysophospholipids have unsaturated fatty acids, whereas the above-mentioned JP-A-61-111.
2007, JP-A-61-171407, JP-A-61-1
76511, JP-A-61-183207, JP-A-61-
186305, JP-A-61-243009, and JP-A-61
The lysophospholipids described in JP-A-291514 and JP-A-2-169507 are limited to stearic acid or palmitic acid whose fatty acid moiety is a saturated fatty acid, and the fractionation thereof is troublesome.

In view of the above-mentioned circumstances, the present invention is a cosmetic containing a naturally-occurring phospholipid, which has stability over time for at least 2-3 years at room temperature and exhibits good hydrophilicity. The formulation (composition) of cosmetics can be easily designed without using synthetic surfactants other than phospholipids.
Moreover, it is to provide a cosmetic product which can be industrially advantageously produced.

[0015]

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the above object,
As a result of intensive studies on phospholipids suitable for cosmetics, hydroxylated phospholipids having an iodine value of 20 or less and a hydroxyl value of 300 or more have excellent water solubility, emulsifying power, solubilizing power, and dispersing power. It has been found that it also has a good bubble strength. Further, it has been found that the hydroxylated phospholipid has less skin irritation, is excellent in touch and moisturizing property, has a good appearance (gloss, texture, etc.), and can be made into a cosmetic product having excellent storage stability. completed. That is, according to the present invention, the iodine value (Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision, B-451) is
20 or less, and hydroxyl value (Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision, B
-450) is not less than 300 and contains a water-soluble hydroxylated phospholipid , wherein the hydroxylated phospholipid is phosphatidyl.
Oxidation treatment of glycerophospholipids containing more than 50% choline
A hydroxylated phospholipid obtained by
The total amount of hydroxylated phospholipid was 0.
The above-mentioned object can be achieved by the cosmetics formulated in an amount of 01 to 30% by weight .

[0016] Preferably said hydroxyapatite lipid is hydroxyapatite lipid obtained by oxidizing the said glycerophospholipid naturally derived, more preferably obtained by oxidizing the phosphatidylcholine hydroxide It is a cosmetic containing a hydroxylated phospholipid containing 50% or more of phospholipid as a component.

The total amount of the hydroxylated phospholipid is preferably 0.1 to 10 % by weight based on the total weight of the ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

The iodine value and the hydroxyl value in the present invention are values measured according to the method described in Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision B-451, B-450.

The term "natural origin" as used in the present invention means one whose existence is recognized in the natural world, especially in animals and plants. However, the means for obtaining the substance is not limited to the one extracted from animals and plants, and includes the one collected through a microorganism or the one produced by synthesis.

[0020]

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing a hydroxylated phospholipid having excellent stability over time and exhibiting good hydrophilicity, and has little skin irritation, excellent touch and moisturizing properties, and excellent cosmetic properties. It has an external appearance (gloss, texture, etc.) and excellent storage stability.

[0021]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION When the iodine value is high, the quality is easily deteriorated by heat or light, and when it is 30 or less, the stability is remarkably improved. When the iodine value of the hydroxylated phospholipid is 20 or less, it shows sufficient stability to withstand use. If the hydroxyl value is low, the hydrophilicity is low,
It exhibits hydrophilicity that can withstand use at 250 or more. Hydroxylated phosphoric acid
It has a hydroxyl value of 300 or more and is transparently dissolved in water. Therefore, a hydroxylated phospholipid having an iodine value of 20 or less and a hydroxyl value of 300 or more has good storage stability and hydrophilicity, and is particularly suitable as an emulsifying agent and a solubilizing agent for an O / W type emulsion.

Therefore, since the cosmetic containing the hydroxylated phospholipid contains the naturally occurring phospholipid, it is less irritating to the skin and is excellent in touch and moisturizing property. In addition, the cosmetic of the present invention has a good appearance (gloss, texture, etc.) due to hydroxylation of phospholipids, and is excellent in storage stability.

The phospholipid as a raw material is preferably a naturally occurring glycerophospholipid. Particularly, since phosphatidylcholine has the highest hydrophilicity among phospholipids and can be easily solubilized by introducing a hydroxyl group, it is most preferable that the phospholipid as a raw material contains 50% or more of phosphatidylcholine.

An iodine value of 30 or less and a hydroxyl value of 2
Hydroxylated phospholipids having 50 or more can be obtained by oxidizing phospholipids by the following method. That is, phospholipids,
Preferably, the phosphatidylcholine content (standard oil / fat analysis test method, 5.3.3.1-86, phospholipids phosphorus composition, edited by Japan Oil Chemists' Society) is 50% or more and oil content (standard oil / fat analysis test method, 5.3.2-). 90, acetone soluble matter, edited by Japan Oil Chemistry Society) 10% or less of purified glycerophospholipid in hydrocarbon (eg hexane, heptane etc.) or halogenated hydrocarbon (eg chloroform, methylene chloride etc.),
After reacting with an organic acid (for example, formic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, butyric acid, etc.) in the presence of hydrogen peroxide solution at 50 to 60 ° C. for 5 to 6 hours, it is neutralized with 10% caustic soda and dehydrated. By adding ethanol or isopropanol to remove salts and distilling off the solvent under reduced pressure, the target hydroxylated phospholipid can be obtained.

Since hydrocarbon or halogenated hydrocarbon is used as the reaction solvent in the above-mentioned production method, the iodine value is 30.
Further, the reaction time until the hydroxyl value becomes 250 or more is shortened. In the present invention, the removal of the organic acid does not depend on the concentration under reduced pressure, but the salt can be removed by filtering the organic acid salt produced by neutralizing the organic acid with anhydrous ethanol or anhydrous isopropanol, and removing the residual salt. A hydroxylated phospholipid suitable for cosmetics that does not exist can be obtained.

Skin conditioning skin lotion, wipe skin lotion, soft skin lotion, acne treatment lotion, aftershave lotion, two-layer conditioning lotion,
By using the above-mentioned hydroxylated phospholipid as a solubilizing agent in an aqueous transparent cosmetic such as cleansing lotion or hairnic, a clear aqueous transparent cosmetic having less skin irritation and excellent moisturizing properties can be obtained.

The amount of the hydroxyphospholipid used in the cosmetic composition is 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1
It is 0% by weight. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, the emulsification of the oily substance tends to be poor, and if it is more than 30% by weight, the solubility in the system is lowered and the feel is not sufficient.

In preparing the cosmetic of the present invention, other naturally-occurring surfactants, water-soluble natural polymers and the like can be added.

Examples will be described below. The parts shown in the examples mean% by weight.

[0030]

Example 1 Production of Hydroxylated Phospholipid Phosphatidylcholine content 57.5%, oil 5.99%
50 g of purified glycerophospholipid of 100 ml of hexane
After reacting in the presence of 55.6 g of acetic acid and 15 g of 35% hydrogen peroxide solution at 60 ° C. for 6 hours, the mixture was neutralized with 10% sodium hydroxide and dehydrated. Next, 100 mL of anhydrous isopropanol
Was added to remove the sodium acetate salt by filtration. Then, the solvent was distilled off under reduced pressure at 50 ° C. or lower to give an acid value (Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision, B-449) of 6.9 and an iodine value of 17.
1, hydroxyl value 300.8, peroxide value (sanitation test method commentary, p338, edited by the Pharmaceutical Society of Japan, 1990 edition 1st edition) 0, ash content (Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision, B-121) 5.86% 48.6 g of hydroxylated phospholipid was obtained.

[0031]

Example 2 Skin cream (1) Prescription department Component A: Polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate 1.0         Hydroxylated phospholipid 1.0         Polyoxyethylene (15) glyceryl stearate 1.0         Stearic acid 4.0         Cetyl alcohol 4.0         Paraffin wax 135 ° F 3.0         Cetyl palmitate 2.0         Squalane 8.0         Trioctyl glycerin 5.0         Jojoba oil 3.0         Dimethyl siloxane 0.2         Propyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1

[0032] Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Pentaglycan 2.0         Glycerin 5.0         Purified water 60.6

(2) Manufacturing method The components A and B are uniformly dissolved at 80 ° C. (solutions A and B). Solution B is added to solution A with stirring and cooled. After lowering the temperature to 45 to 40 ° C., stirring was stopped.

The obtained skin cream is an O / W type emulsion and has very fine texture and gloss, and does not separate or float even when stored in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. for 4 months and deteriorates. There was no (coloring, generation of odor, etc.). Also, the spread and the smoothness of the cream were good.

[0035]

Comparative Example 1 A skin cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that phosphatidylcholine was used instead of the hydroxylated phospholipid. As a result, the obtained skin cream was an O / W type emulsion and had very rough texture, and the cream did not come off well. When it was stored for 4 months in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C., it was separated into two layers and the emulsion stability was poor and the quality was altered (colored).

[0036]

Comparative Example 2 A skin cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that soybean phospholipid was used instead of hydroxylated phospholipid. As a result, the obtained skin cream is W
The / O type emulsion had a very rough texture and the cream did not release well. When it was stored in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. for 4 months, it was partially separated into two layers. Furthermore, the color changed to brown, and a strange odor also occurred.

[0037]

Example 3 Emulsion (1) Prescription department Component A: Trioctyl glycerin 5.0         Isopropyl myristate 4.0         Squalane 4.0         Stearic acid 1.0         Behenyl alcohol 65 0.5         Glycerin 8.0         Propyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1

[0038] Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.3         Xanthan gum (2% aqueous solution) 5.0         Carbopol 940 (2% aqueous solution) 5.0         Purified water 51.0

[0039] Component C: triethanolamine 0.1         Purified water 4.9 Component D: Pentabaitin 1.0         Elastin 1.0         Purified water 8.0

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A and B are uniformly dissolved at 80 ° C. (solution A,
B). While stirring Solution A at 80 ° C. with a homomixer, Solution B is gradually added to emulsify. After emulsification, component C was added at about 50 ° C. and component D was added at about 40 ° C. while cooling with stirring, and the temperature was lowered to 35 ° C., and then stirring was stopped.

A milky liquid O / W type emulsion was obtained.
Even when stored in a constant temperature bath of 0 ° C. for 4 months, it did not separate and did not deteriorate (coloring, generation of odor, etc.).

[0042]

Example 4 Moisture cream (1) Prescription department Component A: Behenyl alcohol 65 3.5         Stearic acid 3.0         Purified beeswax 3.5         Squalane 5.0         FZ-209 5.0         Dimethyl siloxane 0.2         Propyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1

[0043] Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.3         1,3-butylene glycol 5.0         Xanthan gum (2% aqueous solution) 5.0         Purified water 64.3 Component C: Hyaluronic acid solution 1.0         Purified water 4.0

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A and B are uniformly dissolved at 80 ° C. (solution A,
B). While stirring Solution A at 80 ° C. with a homomixer, Solution B is gradually added to emulsify. After the emulsification, component C was added at 55 to 50 ° C while stirring and cooling, and the temperature was lowered to 35 ° C, and then stirring was stopped.

A milky liquid O / W emulsion is obtained, which is 4
Even when stored in a constant temperature bath of 0 ° C. for 4 months, it did not separate and did not deteriorate (coloring, generation of odor, etc.).

[0046]

Example 5 Serum (1) Prescription department Component A: HEC SE900 (2% aqueous solution) 25.0         Hamameri extract 0.3         Placentur 1.0         Purified water 23.0 Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.5         1,3-butylene glycol 5.0         Purified water 45.1

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A and B are uniformly dissolved at room temperature (solution A,
B). Solution B is slowly added while stirring solution A.

[0048]

Example 6 Skin lotion (1) Prescription department Component A: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.5         Propylene glycol 3.0         Purified water 46.4 Component B: Hyaluronic acid solution 0.5         Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1         Ethyl alcohol 5.0         Purified water 44.4

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A and B are uniformly dissolved at room temperature (solution A,
B). Solution B is slowly added while stirring solution A.

[0050]

Example 7 Gel Lotion (1) Prescription department Component A: Carbopol 940 (2% aqueous solution) 20.0         Placentur 1.0         Penta Biting 1.0         Ethyl alcohol 5.0         Purified water 18.0 Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.5         Propylene glycol 3.0         Purified water 46.4 Component C: triethanolamine 0.4         Purified water 4.6

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A, B and C are uniformly dissolved at room temperature (solutions A, B and C). While stirring the solution A, the solution B is gradually added, and then the solution C is further added.

The obtained skin lotion had a colorless and transparent appearance, and had no moisturizing feeling when used and was moist. No separation or precipitation was observed even after storage for 4 months in a constant temperature bath at 40 ° C. And alteration (coloring,
There was no odor, etc.).

[0053]

[Example 8] Treatment cream (1) Prescription department Ingredient A: stearic acid diethylaminoethylamide 3.0         Phosphoric acid 0.8         Cetyl alcohol 8.0         Trioctyl glycerin 10.0         Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 2.0         1,3-butylene glycol 3.0         Propyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1

[0054] Ingredient B: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1         Hydroxylated phospholipid 0.2         Hydrolyzed collagen peptide 0.4         Purified water 72.4

(2) Manufacturing method The above components A and B are uniformly dissolved at 80 ° C. (solution A,
B). While stirring Solution A at 80 ° C. with a homomixer, Solution B is gradually added to emulsify. After the emulsification, the temperature was lowered to 35 ° C. while cooling with stirring and then the stirring was stopped.

[0056]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION Since the hydroxylated phospholipid contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in storage stability, emulsifying power, solubilizing power and dispersing power, no other synthetic surfactant is required. Therefore, since the blending effect of the naturally-derived phospholipid component is maximized, the cosmetic of the present invention has less skin irritation,
It has excellent feel and moisture retention. Further, a cosmetic having excellent storage stability can be provided.

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] Claim 1: Iodine number (Japanese Pharmacopoeia 12th revision, B-4
51) is 20 or less and has a hydroxyl value (Japanese Pharmacopoeia No. 12
Amendment, B-450) shows 300 or more, and contains hydroxylated phospholipid which is soluble in water, and said hydroxylated phospholipid contains 50% of phosphatidylcholine.
By oxidizing the glycerophospholipids contained above
The obtained hydroxyphospholipid is the total amount of the hydroxyphospholipid based on the total weight of the prescription ingredients.
Cosmetics characterized by being contained in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight . 2. A according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxyapatite lipids are phospholipids hydroxide obtained by oxidizing the glycidyl <br/> Serorin lipid derived from natural cosmetic . 3. The cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein 50% or more of the hydroxylated phospholipid is a hydroxylated phospholipid obtained by oxidizing phosphatidylcholine. 4. The cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the cosmetic is an aqueous transparent cosmetic.