JP2009007299A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic comprising an ascorbic acid derivative exhibiting good oxidation stability, skin permeability and solubility in a base agent or a solvent that is low-foaming on the skin surface and is suppressed in a foaming property in a state preserved in a cosmetic container in which it is accommodated or in a distribution state as a commodity. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic comprises a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative such as disodium isostearylascorbyl-2-phosphate represented by chemical formula (1), where the cosmetic contains as a foaming-suppressing component lecithins such as lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin or lecithin hydroxide in such an amount that the weight ratio of the lecithins/water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative is 0.1-10. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic containing a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative, and more particularly to a cosmetic containing an ascorbic acid-2-phosphate having a branched alkyl group at a phosphate ester part or a salt thereof.

  In general, ascorbic acid is excellent in a whitening effect, a collagen formation promoting effect, and the like, and is therefore incorporated in various types of cosmetics such as lotions and creams.

  Since such ascorbic acid is susceptible to oxidation, when blended in cosmetics, it is difficult to ensure stability over time. Phosphoric esterified ascorbic acid phosphates or salts thereof are known.

  Since these ascorbic acid derivatives are converted into ascorbic acid in the body, they are considered to exhibit a whitening effect, a collagen formation promoting effect and the like as in conventional ascorbic acid (Patent Document 1).

  In addition, these ascorbic acid derivatives have high hydrophilicity and poor skin permeability (also referred to as sebum barrier permeability). Therefore, when incorporated into general cosmetics, the whitening effect of original ascorbic acid It is difficult to sufficiently obtain the effect of promoting collagen formation.

  In recent years, ascorbic acid phosphates or their salts have been made fat-soluble to increase the permeability to the skin, and ascorbic acid derivatives acylated with fatty acids have been known. Therefore, the permeability to the skin is improved (Patent Documents 2 and 3).

  These ascorbic acid derivatives are usually poorly soluble in bases and solvents used in cosmetics, and when blended in general cosmetics, they tend to aggregate and precipitate over time, A compounding quantity and a dosage form of a formulation will be limited.

  On the other hand, an improved emulsified composition containing an ascorbic acid derivative that has good solubility in bases and solvents used in cosmetics and has good permeability to the skin is known, When the ascorbic acid-2-phosphate ester or salt thereof used in this emulsion composition is used, a thermodynamically stable emulsion composition can be prepared without adding other surfactants ( Patent Document 4).

Japanese Patent Publication No.52-18191 JP-A-10-298174 JP 2004-2359 A JP 2007-70239 A

  However, the above-mentioned ascorbic acid-2-phosphate ester or a salt thereof has a characteristic of having a strong surface active action in combination with the hydrophilic group of ascorbic acid and the added lipophilic group. There was a problem that it was easy to foam on the skin surface and was unsatisfactory in terms of usability.

  This problem often occurs especially when the ascorbic acid derivative is disodium isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate.

  Furthermore, when such an ascorbic acid derivative is blended in a preparation having a relatively high water content (for example, a multi-water preparation having a water content of 40% by weight or more or 50% by weight or more), such as lotion or cosmetic liquid. In addition to foaming on the skin surface during use, foaming is likely to occur due to slight impact or vibration during storage, and the storage container may be filled with foam. Such a liquid composition that is prone to foaming inevitably has a serious adverse effect on the commercial value of cosmetics that emphasize the visual impression.

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems and to provide an ascorbic acid derivative-containing cosmetic that has good oxidation stability, skin permeability, and solubility in a base or a solvent. It is a cosmetic that has low foamability on the surface, is well stored in a housed cosmetic container, or has low foaming even when merchandise is distributed.

  In particular, when the ascorbic acid derivative is an ascorbyl 2-phosphate ester or a salt thereof, and further is isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate disodium, It is to sufficiently reduce the foamability in the storage container.

  In other words, it has excellent oxidative stability and skin permeability, has affinity for aqueous and oily cosmetic bases, and has good non-foaming properties due to foam-suppressing action, especially foaming-suppressing action during distribution and storage As a result, it is possible to provide a cosmetic containing an ascorbic acid derivative that gives a visual impression of the product to consumers of the cosmetic.

  The inventors of the present application have conducted intensive research to solve the above-described problems. For example, when isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate and lecithin are blended at a predetermined ratio, the characteristics of the ascorbic acid derivative are impaired. The present invention has been completed by discovering that the foamability on the skin surface and in the storage container is remarkably reduced.

That is, in this invention, in order to solve the above-mentioned problem, in a cosmetic containing a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative modified with a phosphate ester having an alkyl group branched at the 2-position of ascorbic acid, It was made into a cosmetic characterized by blending lecithins.
The water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative referred to in the present invention includes a salt of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative. Incidentally, examples of the salt of the ascorbic acid derivative include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, and alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention configured as described above has good oxidation stability, skin permeability, solubility in a base and a solvent, and the cosmetic composition has a predetermined preferable characteristic. In combination with water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives modified with phosphate esters, lecithin is blended and adjusted to improve oxidation stability, skin permeability, aqueous and oily base and solvent solubility. While maintaining, foamability on the skin surface and in the container can be reduced.

  In particular, the above-described water-soluble ascorbic acid is such that the phosphate ester is a phosphate diester in which a fatty acid is ester-bonded via phosphoric acid, and the fatty acid is a fatty acid having an alkyl group branched at the 2-position. When it is a derivative, it appears more prominently. When a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative, which is a fatty acid having an alkyl group branched at the 2-position, is used, the permeability to the skin is significantly improved.

  In particular, an example of a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative that exhibits an overall favorable action is disodium isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate represented by the following formula 2.

  The lecithin that can be employed in the above invention is one or more lecithins selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.

  In addition, the blending ratio (weight ratio) of lecithin is preferably 0.1 to 10 with respect to the water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative in order to achieve the above-described effect more reliably.

  In the present invention, since lecithin is blended with a cosmetic containing a predetermined water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative in which the 2-position of ascorbic acid is modified with a phosphate ester, the oxidation stability, skin permeability, aqueous and oily groups Cosmetics that have good solubility in agents and solvents, and have low foaming properties on the skin surface during use, and foam when stored in a cosmetic container or in the state of distribution as a product. There is an advantage that it becomes a cosmetic with low properties.

  The ascorbic acid derivative that is the first component used in the present invention is a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative in which the 2-position of ascorbic acid is modified with a phosphate ester, for example, isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate disodium.

  Of these, isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate disodium, which is the most preferred ascorbic acid derivative, is a compound represented by the above formula 2. An ascorbic acid derivative in which the position 2 of ascorbic acid is phosphorylated is less susceptible to oxidation and is excellent in stability over time.

  Moreover, the ascorbic acid derivative in which the phosphate group at the 2-position is converted to a higher fatty acid ester has moderate fat solubility and excellent permeability to the skin. In addition, the phosphate group at the 2-position is hydrolyzed by phosphatase in the living body, and is quickly converted into ascorbic acid in the body, and has excellent skin permeability.

The lecithins that are the second component of the present invention are also called phosphatidylcholines, which are the main components of the biological membrane that constitutes the cells.
Examples of the derivatives include hydrogenated lecithin that has been improved in oxidation resistance by hydrogenating lecithin, lysolecithin obtained by reacting lecithin with an enzyme, and hydrogenation in which oxidation resistance has been improved by hydrogenating lysolecithin. There are lysolecithin, hydroxylated lecithin in which the double bond of lecithin is hydroxylated, and the like, and one or two or more of them can be used in combination in cosmetics.

  Lecithins are often extracted industrially from egg yolk as egg yolk lecithin, but lecithins obtained from other biomaterials include soybean phospholipids.

The amount of lecithin used in the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10 with respect to the water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative. For example, the weight ratio of lecithin / isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate is 0.1. It is adjusting to the range of 1-10, More preferably, it is adjusting to the range whose same ratio is 0.5-5.0.
Because, when the weight ratio of lecithins in cosmetics is less than 0.1, foaming on the skin surface of cosmetics containing isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate and in containers is suppressed. This is because the effect does not appear in many cases, and even when the blended weight ratio of lecithin exceeds 10, the effect is hardly changed, and practicality may be lost.

  In addition to the above-described essential components, the cosmetic of the present invention can be appropriately mixed with optional components that are usually blended in cosmetics such as cosmetics and quasi drugs.

  Examples of optional ingredients that can be blended include hydrocarbons such as squalane, liquid paraffin, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, liquid oils such as olive oil, macadamia nut oil, castor oil, camellia oil, meadow foam oil, palm oil, palm Oil, shea fat, hardened castor oil, solid fat such as cacao butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin, shellac and other waxes, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, phytosterol and other higher alcohols, Synthetic ester oils such as cetyl octoate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, Ca cyclopentasiloxane, silicone resins, silicone oils such as amino-modified polysiloxane.

  Moreover, lipophilic nonionic surfactants such as glyceryl monostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, decaglyceryl monostearate, POE-glyceryl monoisostearate, POE-sorbitan tetraoleate, POE- Hydrophilic nonionic surfactants such as behenyl ether, palm oil fatty acid monoethanolamide, sodium stearate, sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, sodium POE-oleyl ether phosphate, sodium lauroyl sarcosine, sodium lauroylmethylalanine, etc. Anionic surfactant, cationic surfactant such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethylaminopropylamide stearate, benzalkonium chloride, palm oil fatty acid amino acid Betaine may be added to amphoteric surfactants such as lauryl dimethylamino acetic acid betaine.

  Also, water-soluble, such as lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,2-pentanediol, xanthan gum, pectin, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, etc. Polymers, pH adjusters such as citric acid-sodium citrate, lactic acid-sodium lactate, sequestering agents such as disodium edetate, sodium citrate, sodium metaphosphate, powder components, UV absorbers, antioxidants Agents, organic amines, preservatives, bactericides, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, whitening agents, vitamins, amino acids, blood circulation promoters, activators, refreshing agents, various extracts, fragrances, water, etc. .

  In addition, the cosmetic dosage form in the present invention may be arbitrarily prepared, such as solution system, emulsion system, solubilization system, dispersion system, water-oil two-layer system, gel, mist, film, etc. It is possible to take a dosage form according to various required physical properties. Specific examples thereof include skin lotion, milky lotion, cosmetic liquid, cream, pack, sunscreen agent and the like.

  However, examples in which a particularly remarkable effect is recognized as an anti-foaming action are preparations having a relatively high water content (for example, a water content of 50% by weight or more) such as skin lotion or cosmetic liquid, more preferably water. It is preferable to use cosmetics with an amount of 60 to 99% by weight, particularly preferably with a water content of 70 to 99% by weight, and more preferably with a water content of 80 to 99% by weight. The effect of the present invention can be recognized more remarkably because it is likely to appear not only by a slight impact but also by a slight shock or vibration during storage.

[Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]
Raw materials were mixed with the composition (% by weight) shown in Table 1 to prepare a lotion. The actual water content of the purified water amount (remainder) shown in Table 1 is 85 to 90% by weight. Each lotion was usually added with a small amount of preservatives and sequestering agents contained (less than 1% by weight in total of both components).

[Foamability test on skin surface]
Each of the lotions of the obtained Examples and Comparative Examples was used by 10 panelists for both men and women, and sensory evaluation was performed on foaming on the skin surface. Evaluation criteria were evaluated in four stages as follows.
◎ ... More than 8 panelists recognized that there was no foaming on the skin surface during use.
O ... 6 or more and less than 8 panelists recognized that there was no foaming on the skin surface during use.
Δ: 3 or more and less than 6 panelists recognized that there was no foaming on the skin surface during use.
X: Less than 3 panelists recognized that there was no foaming on the skin surface during use.

[Foaming test in container]
Each lotion of the obtained Examples and Comparative Examples was filled in a transparent container, and after filling, the container was lightly shaken by hand and allowed to stand for 1 minute, and then the remaining amount of foam in the container was visually confirmed. The evaluation criteria were evaluated in three stages as follows.
○ ... Almost no foam is left in the container.
Δ: A little foam is left in the container.
X ... The inside of the container is filled with foamed foam.

  As is clear from the results in Table 1, in Comparative Example 2, foaming occurred on the skin surface and in the container, whereas in Examples 1 and 2 containing lecithins, the skin surface and in the container. Foaming was suppressed. Moreover, about the comparative example 3, sufficient foaming suppression effect was not recognized on the skin surface and the container.

[Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Example 4]
Raw materials were mixed with the composition (% by weight) shown in Table 2 to prepare an emulsion. The actual water content of the purified water amount (remainder) shown in Table 2 is 70 to 76% by weight. Moreover, the pH adjuster, antioxidant, antiseptic | preservative, and fragrance | flavor (total less than 2 weight% of these 4 components) to mix | blend normally was added to each emulsion.

  As is clear from the results in Table 2, foaming on the skin surface and in the container was also suppressed in Examples 3 and 4 which were emulsions containing lecithins.

Below, other formulation examples are listed.
[Example 5; serum]
(Compounding ingredients) (wt%)
Purified water Residual amount Glycerin 5.00
1,2-pentanediol 0.50
Squalane 0.25
Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 0.15
Jojoba seed oil 0.10
Sodium hyaluronate 0.20
Xanthan gum 0.05
Ascorbyl-2-phosphate sodium 2.00
Isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate sodium 0.50
Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.75
Sequestering agent appropriate amount pH adjusting agent appropriate amount plant extract appropriate amount preservative appropriate amount

About Example 5, the raw material was mixed with said composition (weight%), and the cosmetic liquid was prepared. The actual amount of purified water (residual amount) is about 90% by weight.
In this cosmetic liquid, the same evaluation as in Examples 1 to 4 was performed, and as a result, an effect of suppressing both foamability on the skin surface and foamability in the container was recognized.

[Example 6: O / W emulsion type sunscreen agent]
(Compounding ingredients) (wt%)
Purified water Residual amount ethanol 10.0
Dimethylpolysiloxane 1.50
Lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl 5.00
Stearyl alcohol 1.00
2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5.00
Titanium oxide 3.00
Acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.50
Hydrophobized hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.20
Potassium hydroxide 0.10
Isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate sodium 0.30
Hydroxylated soybean phospholipid 3.00
Sequestering agent appropriate amount preservative appropriate amount

For Example 6, raw materials were mixed in the above composition (% by weight) to prepare an O / W emulsion type sunscreen agent. The actual amount of purified water (residual amount) is about 70% by weight.
This sunscreen agent was evaluated in exactly the same manner as in Examples 1 to 5 described above. As a result, an effect of suppressing foaming on the skin surface and in the container was recognized.

Claims (5)

  A cosmetic comprising a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative modified with a phosphate ester having a branched alkyl group at the second position of ascorbic acid, wherein lecithin is blended as a foaming suppression component.   The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the phosphate ester is a phosphate diester obtained by esterifying a fatty acid via phosphoric acid, and the fatty acid is a fatty acid having an alkyl group branched at the 2-position. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative is isostearyl ascorbyl-2-phosphate disodium represented by the following formula 1.

  The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the lecithin is one or more lecithins selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a blending ratio (weight ratio) of lecithin is 0.1 to 10 with respect to the water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative.