JP3083685B2 - Method for producing a woven fabric having a natural appearance - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric having a plump swelling and a natural expression.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to impart swelling to a woven fabric containing polyester filaments, mixed yarns and twisted yarns having a difference in shrinkage and a difference in yarn length have been used as raw yarns (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 50-6).
No. 3272, JP-B No. 62-46656, JP-A No. 3-4
No. 5735).

[0003] However, the conventional method has not been able to obtain a woven fabric having a natural appearance in addition to a sufficiently plump swelling. Here, the natural appearance refers to a state in which the finished fabric does not exhibit a completely plain surface state as in the past, but is a state in which visually wrinkles and wrinkles are powdered (called silk). Sunshine feeling). And such textiles are the demands of consumers these days.

[0004] By the way, the greige is usually processed in the steps of "scouring", "relaxing", "drying", "preset", "alkaline weight loss", "dyeing", "drying", "finishing treatment" and "final set". Finished through. In this case, in the “preset” step, a pin tenter (a device that grips and fixes both ends of the woven fabric with a needle-shaped pin and enlarges it) is generally used. However, in this case, since the shrinkage in the warp direction and the weft direction is limited, a sufficient crimp structure cannot be obtained, and a desired swelling and appearance cannot be obtained in many cases.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having a more natural feeling and a natural feeling close to a sun-dried feeling expressed by silk, in addition to a swelling feeling.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventor has proposed a different shrinkage mixed fiber or polyester yarn having a polyester long fiber copolymerized with isophthalic acid as a high shrinkage component in a conventional different shrinkage mixed yarn or twisted yarn. It has been found that a desired woven fabric can be obtained when the greige machine including the twisted yarn is freely shrunk under dry heat in a preset process and then finished at a temperature lower than the temperature adopted in the preset process.

Thus, according to the present invention, when passing through a series of steps of pretreatment and dyeing / finishing processing of a greige machine composed of intertwisted or mixed yarns composed of at least two or more yarns having different shrinkage rates, a) Twisting or twisting in which a polyester fiber mainly composed of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid in an amount of 5 mol% or more with respect to a terephthalic acid component as a high shrinkage component in the mixed fiber is used as one component. Or, in the step before (b) the dyeing step, the greige made of mixed yarn is first relaxed in a liquid and then guided to a preset zone, where the greige is substantially not pulled in the warp and weft directions. (C) producing a woven fabric having a natural appearance, wherein the fabric is subjected to dry heat / free shrinkage under no tension in a spread state, and is subjected to a finishing treatment at a temperature lower than the temperature of the dry heat in the subsequent steps. The law is provided.

In the present invention, as the high shrinkage component in the mixed fiber or the twisted yarn, it is necessary to use a long fiber made of a polyester obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid with 5 mol% based on the amount of terephthalic acid. When the copolymerization amount of isophthalic acid is lower than 5 mol%, the action of the present invention described below
No effect is exhibited. On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount is too high, the melting point and the softening point of the polymer are undesirably greatly reduced. In this sense, it is appropriate to control the amount of copolymerization to at most 20 mol%.

On the other hand, as the low shrinkage component, the type of fiber,
Physical properties are not particularly limited. However, if this component is also made of polyester filament, naturally, a feeling that has not been achieved in a polyester fabric can be realized. When a self-stretching type yarn obtained by heat setting an intermediate oriented yarn generally called "POY" is used as this component, a cloth with a larger bulge can be obtained.

A shrinkage ratio of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component,
Individual requirements such as the filament denier, the total denier, and the difference in shrinkage between the two may be arbitrarily set depending on the fabric to be designed.

[0011]

[Action] As described above, the greige machine is “scouring”, “relax”, “dry”, “preset”, “alkaline weight loss”,
A series of the steps of “dyeing”, “drying”, “finishing treatment” and “final set” become a woven product.

In the scouring and relaxing steps, the warp and the weft shrink, causing sufficient crimping (bending) at the intersections between the two to develop surface effects such as swelling and grain on the woven fabric. The step of heat-setting these surface effects at a dry heat of about 160 to 210 ° C. is a presetting step. Hereinafter, this will be described in detail. Usually, relaxation is performed in a liquid, and a high-pressure relaxor or a liquid-flow relaxer is used to obtain a sufficient relaxing effect.
In the conventional concept, the crimp state is almost uniquely determined in this relaxing step, and how to maintain and maintain this crimp state in the later presetting step was a major point of texture .

In general, in the presetting step, a pin setter is used to hold the ears of the fabric and setter (heat set box).
In order to obtain room for shrinkage, overfeed is applied in the warp and weft directions, and the setter enters the slack state at the exit, and heat exits under tension in the warp and weft directions at the exit. The set is completed. here,
If the fabric is over-feeded excessively, the wrinkles on the both ears side in the warp direction and the thickening in the tenter in the weft direction cause a thread hit in the machine, so the overfeed amount is limited, and the set is eventually completed At this point, it is under tension. For this reason, in the presetting step using a pin tenter, there is a limit to the height of the crimp, and since the crimp is uniform, sufficient swelling cannot be obtained, and the appearance is flat and has no natural feeling at all.

In this regard, the present invention, contrary to the conventional concept,
When the bent structure formed in the relaxation process is further raised (that is, when a yarn that also shrinks in this preset process is used), the fabric has a plump swelling, and the fabric generated in the relaxation process is further increased. The large wrinkles in the inside turned into faint wrinkle-like ones, and I learned that this contributes to the natural feel of the fabric.

From the above, in the present invention, as a high shrinkage component in the mixed fiber or the twisted yarn, a polyester fiber composed of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid with terephthalic acid in an amount of 5 mol% or more is used. The point is to use it.

The polyester containing the above isophthalic acid in an amount of 5 mol% or more shrinks greatly even in a preset after relaxation. Therefore, in the pre-set in the free state, further shrinkage occurs and a highly crimped structure is formed, rough wrinkles generated during relaxation are reduced, wrinkles disappear, and random crimps are generated due to disturbance of the fabric structure. This random and sophisticated crimp provides the desired plump swelling and natural appearance.

In order to maintain the random high crimp structure expressed in this manner, it is important that the subsequent steps do not take conditions higher than the preset temperature conditions. After pre-setting, the fabric is subjected to alkali weight loss treatment for softening, dyed, and if necessary, sweat-absorbing, water-repellent,
After the antistatic processing and the like are performed, the final setting is performed, and the final fabric is obtained. Here, the final set is intended to improve the quality of the fabric and to fix various treatment agents, but in the present invention, it is preferable to set the final set temperature lower by 5 to 15 ° C. than the preset temperature.

In the final set, similarly to the preset, the processing can be performed without applying tension in the warp and weft directions. At this time, in order to eliminate unnecessary wrinkles in the process after the presetting and to prevent the deterioration of the quality called the width of the fabric caused by the variation in the physical properties of the weft, the feeling and appearance are maintained in some way in the warp and weft directions. It is preferable to apply a predetermined range of tension. Generally, a general method of gripping the ears of the fabric with a needle pin and applying tension thereto can be used.
The correction process can be performed in the final set in this way.

[0019]

EXAMPLES The isophthalic acid content was 0, 3,
Blend with boiling water at 75 denier / 15 filaments using 6, 10 mol% copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate.
% Of yarn was manufactured and used as a core yarn. On the other hand, a 125 denier / 36 filament semi-drawn yarn obtained by spinning a homopolymer of polyethylene terephthalate at 3500 m / min is heat-treated with an overfeed of 2% to prepare a yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 0%. Sheath yarn was used. Combine each yarn and give 1% overfeed to 800
Taslani processing was performed at m / min.

The obtained mixed yarn is subjected to a twisting and twisting set of 1,000 T / m, and is woven with a 2/2 twill structure at a density of 94 yarns / inch and a weft of 51 yarns / inch. It was pre-relaxed at 100 ° C. for 25 seconds, relaxed at a top temperature of 120 ° C. for 40 minutes with a circular relaxer, air-dried, and introduced into a presetting step. After that, the weight was reduced by 18% by alkali treatment, and then 130 ° C x 6 with a liquid jet dyeing machine.
Stained for 0 minutes. Next, a final set was performed with a pin setter in a state where the stretch was 1.5% of the width after dyeing. The results are shown in Table 1 together with the preset and final set conditions.

[0021]

[Table 1]

[0022]

As described above, according to the present invention, even in the presetting step following the relaxing step, a process for further shrinking the high shrinkage component in the mixed fiber or the twisted yarn has been conventionally used. A high-quality fabric rich in plump swelling and "natural feeling" was provided.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Fields surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06C 23/04 D02G 3/04 D03D 15/04 D06C 7/00 D06C 19/00

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A pre-treatment of a greige machine composed of twisted or mixed yarns comprising at least two or more yarns having different shrinkage rates,
In passing through a series of steps of the dyeing and finishing treatment, (a) a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid in an amount of 5 mol% or more with respect to a terephthalic acid component as a high shrinkage component in a twisted or mixed fiber is a main component. A green fabric consisting of a twisted or mixed yarn in which polyester fibers are arranged as one component is introduced into a preset zone after relaxing treatment in a liquid first in a step prior to the dyeing step (b). (C) dry-heat free shrinking under tension without spreading substantially in the latitudinal and weft directions, and (c) in the subsequent steps, finishing at a temperature lower than the dry-heat temperature. A method for producing a woven fabric having a natural appearance.