JP2544037B2 - Moisturizer and skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a moisturizing material and a skin cosmetic, and more specifically, a moisturizing agent added to so-called skin care cosmetics such as lotions, emulsions and creams, and cosmetics used directly on the skin. And a skin cosmetic containing such a moisturizer.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The characteristics required for skin cosmetics such as lotions and emulsions are that they are not sticky when used on the skin, they have good slipperiness, they absorb moisture and sweat, and they prevent makeup collapse. That is, there is a texture. In order to exhibit the above characteristics, a moisturizing agent has been added to skin cosmetics. Materials that have been conventionally used as moisturizers include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin and PC.
There were organic compounds such as A soda, or natural polymer compounds such as collagen and sodium hyaluronate.

On the other hand, there are liquid cosmetics and cream-like or gel-like cosmetics having a relatively high viscosity, which are properly used depending on the intended purpose and use. Also,
For example, in hair cosmetics, a setting agent or a fixing agent for fixing the set hair is added. In these cosmetics, a thickener may be added to impart viscosity or form a gel.

Japanese Patent Application No. 63-314788 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-15721), which the present inventors previously invented and applied for a patent.
No. 4) proposes to use carrageenan as the above-mentioned hair setting or fixing agent. This takes advantage of the excellent film forming properties of carrageenan. Also, JP-A-62-153206
The publication discloses a technique for improving the moisturizing property of skin cosmetics by using a water-soluble polysaccharide such as carrageenan or sodium alginate in combination with mucin.

[0005]

However, among the materials conventionally used as moisturizers for skin cosmetics, organic compounds such as glycerin have insufficient moisturizing properties and give a sticky feeling when applied to the skin. However, there is a drawback that the usability is not good. Collagen and the like have higher moisturizing properties and less sticky feeling than the moisturizing materials made of the above organic compounds, but they are still unsatisfactory depending on the application.

In particular, in the case of skin care cosmetics such as lotions and emulsions, a material having low viscosity is used so that it does not spread smoothly when applied to the skin and does not show a sticky feeling on the surface in use. There is a need to. Therefore, a highly viscous material or a gel material cannot be used as a moisturizing material used for such an application. In addition, some conventional moisturizers have an appropriate viscosity at room temperature, but increase in viscosity or gel when temperature changes. Depending on the environmental conditions such as summer and winter, the characteristics of the moisturizer, that is, the performance of the skin cosmetics, may change.
Not preferable as a skin cosmetic.

Among the above-mentioned prior arts, Japanese Patent Application No. 63-3
The carrageenan used in No. 14788 as a setting agent or a fixing agent for hair cosmetics is difficult to use in applications requiring low viscosity such as the above skin care cosmetics. Further, in the method of using carrageenan and mucin in combination as disclosed in JP-A No. 62-153206, when added to lotion or the like, both of them may react with each other to cause gelation depending on conditions such as pH. However, it cannot be used for applications that hate gelation. Moreover, since mucin is poorly soluble in water, it can only be added in a state of being dispersed in cosmetics. In addition, it precipitates during storage and has poor long-term stability.
Since it is obtained from the stomach of pigs and the saliva of cows, it has a peculiar odor and is not preferable as a material for skin cosmetics.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to improve the characteristics of the moisturizing material used in the conventional skin cosmetics, and to have excellent moisturizing properties and to avoid the problem of stickiness.
In particular, it is to provide a moisturizer whose characteristics do not change with temperature changes, and a skin cosmetic using such a moisturizer.

[0009]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the moisturizing material according to the first aspect of the present invention is κ-
Carrageenan Na salt and / or ι-carrageenan N
a salt with a residual K ion of 1.0% or less, Ca
It consists of a carrageenan salt with less than 0.1% of ions .
The moisturizing material according to the invention of claim 2 is at least one carrageenan selected from the group consisting of κ-carrageenan Na salt, ι-carrageenan Na salt, and λ-carrageenan, and the residual K Ions are 1.0% or more
In the lower part, it contains carrageenan having a Ca ion content of 0.1% or less and locust bean gum.

As a skin cosmetic to which a moisturizing agent is added, various skin care cosmetics such as skin creams and facial packs, basic cosmetics, etc., in addition to the above-mentioned lotion and emulsion, are used for any application requiring moisturizing properties. It can be applied to the skin cosmetics used. Skin cosmetics include, in addition to moisturizers, liquid components such as water, organic solvents and oils that serve as solvents, fragrances and emulsifiers, and powder components that include additives such as sliding materials, blooming materials, or coloring materials. It is composed of. Although the moisturizing material according to the present invention is used in a liquid state, a powdery moisturizing material can be used in combination therewith.

Carrageenan is a natural polymer material which is abundant in red algae. Usually, carrageenan obtained from the above raw materials is classified into three types of κ type, ι type and λ type depending on the difference of raw materials and the extraction method. Both types of carrageenan have Na and K salts,
Obtained as a mixture of Ca salts and the like. Among these, κ-carrageenan and ι-carrageenan have a large content of K salt and Ca salt. In the present invention, the above K and Ca salts of κ-carrageenan and ι-carrageenan are ion-exchanged with Na salt, that is, κ-carrageenan Na salt,
i-carrageenan Na salt is used. κ-Carrageenan N
The amounts of K ion and Ca ion remaining in the a salt and the i-carrageenan Na salt are adjusted to 1.0% or less for K ion and 0.1% or less for Ca ion.

Locust bean gum is a natural polymer material obtained from the seed endosperm of carob (also called carob), and has been conventionally used as a sizing agent or a thickening agent for various processed foods. In the invention of claim 1, one or both of the κ-carrageenan Na salt and the ι-carrageenan salt are mixed and used as a moisturizing material. However, when it is added to skin cosmetics or the like, it is necessary not to use it together with a material that reacts with κ-carrageenan Na salt or ι-carrageenan salt to cause gelation or change the viscosity. For example, when used in combination with mucin or the like, Na salt of κ, ι-carrageenan causes gelation.

In the invention according to claim 2, the κ,
The humectant is composed of ι-carrageenan Na salt or λ-carrageenan and locust bean gum. For λ-carrageenan, it is not necessary to adjust the K ion and Ca ion as described above. The ratio of carrageenan and locust bean gum can be appropriately set depending on the purpose and required performance, but can be used in the range of about 0.01 to 100 (weight ratio) carrageenan / locust bean gum.

As the moisturizer, the above-mentioned carrageenan, or carrageenan and locust bean gum are dissolved in water or warm water and used in the state of an aqueous solution.
It is also possible to dissolve and use solid carrageenan such as powder or locust bean gum in a cosmetic solution in the manufacturing process of skin cosmetics and the like. When a moisturizing agent is added to the above-mentioned skin care cosmetics, the usage amount thereof varies depending on the type of the cosmetics, but is usually 0.01 to 5.0.
It is preferable to add it in a ratio of about wt%.

The proportions of carrageenan and locust bean gum added to the skin cosmetics are 0.01 to 5.0% of carrageenan and 0.01 to 1.0% of locust bean gum with respect to the skin cosmetics. It can be used, and preferably 0.1 to 2.0% of carrageenan and 0.01 to 0.5% of locust bean gum are used.

[0016]

The κ-carrageenan or ι-carrageenan generally used conventionally has a relatively large amount of K salt and Ca salt. Such carrageenan has a considerably excellent moisturizing property, but has a problem that its viscosity is largely changed or gelation occurs due to temperature change. Conventionally, such a viscosity change and gelling property of carrageenan have been utilized for various applications as a thickener or a gelling agent, but as a moisturizer for skin cosmetics and the like targeted by the present invention. Is an undesirable property.

On the other hand, κ-carrageenan Na salt or ι-, which is obtained by converting K ions and Ca ions contained in the conventional carrageenan as described above into Na ions.
Carrageenan Na salt has a sufficient moisturizing property, and even if a temperature change is applied, the viscosity does not change so much and gelation hardly occurs. Therefore, when the κ-carrageenan Na salt or ι-carrageenan Na salt as described above is used as a moisturizing material, excellent moisturizing properties can be exhibited, and at the same time, the viscosity is unlikely to change due to temperature change, and it is suitable for applications where the change in viscosity is disliked. Can be used without any problems.

Furthermore, when the above-mentioned κ, ι-carrageenan Na salt or λ-carrageenan and locust bean gum are used in combination, a much higher moisturizing property is exhibited than the moisturizing properties exhibited when the respective materials are used alone. . However, in the case of the above K and Ca salt-containing κ, ι-carrageenan, when it is used in combination with locust bean gum, a strong gel property is exhibited, and the viscosity is significantly changed or gelation occurs. It solidifies. In particular, the viscosity or gel property greatly changes depending on the temperature change.

However, the combination of κ, ι-carrageenan Na salt or λ-carrageenan and locust bean gum does not exhibit gelling property, and particularly, not only at room temperature but also when temperature changes, gelling property is exhibited. Not shown. Therefore, when used in a liquid skin cosmetic having a low viscosity, or when added to a skin cosmetic having an appropriate viscosity set by another thickener or the like, the viscosity is not significantly changed. Further, even if the environmental temperature in which the skin cosmetic is used varies greatly, it is difficult for the viscosity to increase and the gel property to be exhibited. Therefore, regardless of the variation in the environmental temperature, the moisturizing property is stable and good. The characteristics can be shown.

[0020]

EXAMPLES First, the moisturizing properties of various materials were measured.
The materials used are as follows. [Moisturizing material] κ-Carrageenan (containing K and Ca salts) (Brand name: Genugel SWG, The Copenhagen Pectin Factory Ltd.
KK-κ-carrageenan Na salt (the above is Na by ion exchange
Converted to type) K ion content 0.68%, Ca ion content 0.05% ι-carrageenan (containing Ca salt) (trade name: Genugel CJ, manufactured by The Copenhagen Pectin Factory Ltd.) ι-carrageenan Na salt ( The above is ion exchanged to Na
Converted to type) K ion content 0.65%, Ca ion content 0.04% λ-carrageenan (trade name: Lactalin XP-700
8. FMC Corporation Locust bean gum (Product name: Genugam RL-2)
00, manufactured by MEYHALLCHEMICAL AG) Phthalated collagen glycerin mucin, porcine stomach (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.) were washed with 70% isopropyl alcohol aqueous solution and dried at 50 to 60 ° C.

K ion was 5.0% or more, and Ca ion was 1.0% or more. For these,
In and, ion exchange was performed so that the K ion content was 1.0% or less and the Ca ion content was 0.1% or less. Each of the above-mentioned materials 1 to 4 was used alone or in combination with each other to prepare respective moisturizing agent aqueous solutions shown in Tables 1 and 2 described later, and the characteristics thereof were evaluated. [Characteristic test] (a) Moisture retention test About 10 g of each aqueous solution was weighed in an aluminum cup with a handle (upper diameter 60 mm, lower diameter 54 mm, depth 16 mm, volume 54 ml). The weight at this time is A. Each of the above aqueous solutions was kept for 18 hours in a constant temperature bath set at 25 ° C. and RH≈40%. The environment of the constant temperature bath was set to the above environmental conditions by placing a desiccator containing a saturated aqueous solution of potassium carbonate in the constant temperature bath at 25 ° C. The weight (weight B) of each aqueous solution taken out from the constant temperature bath was measured, and the evaporation rate was calculated by the following formula. The smaller the value of the evaporation rate, the higher the moisturizing property.

Evaporation rate% = (1−B / A) × 100 (b) Appearance property test After each aqueous solution was kept in a thermostat at 10 ° C. for 18 hours, it was examined whether it was in gel state or sol state. The appearance properties were evaluated. The evaluation criteria were ◯ for the sol state and x for the gel state. The carrageenan and locust bean gum were heated and melted, and then placed in a constant temperature bath.

[0023]

[Table 1] ────────────────────────────────── Moisturizer aqueous solution evaporation rate% Appearance ──── ────────────────────────────── Comparative Example 1.0 Water 12.49 ○ Comparative Example 1.1 0.7% Locust Bean Gum 4.83 ○ Comparative Example 1.2 0.7 % κ-Carrageenan (containing K, Ca salt) 5.78 × Comparative Example 1.3 0.7% ι-Carrageenan (containing Ca salt) 5.54 ○ Comparative Example 1.4 0.7% λ-Carrageenan 5.52 ○ Comparative Example 1.5 0.7% Phthalated Collagen 6.27 ○ Comparative Example 1.6 0.7% Mucin 11.36 ○ Comparative example 1.7 0.7% Glycerin 11.57 ○ Comparative example 1.8 0.5% ι-carrageenan (containing Ca salt) + 0.2% Locust bean gum 3.35 × Comparative example 1.9 0.5% mucin + 0.2% Locust bean gum 10.12 Comparative Example 1.10 0.5% mucin + 0.2% κ-carrageenan Na salt 10.00 × Comparative Example 1.11 0.5% mucin + 0.2% ι-carrageenan Na salt 9.30 × Ratio Comparative Example 1.12 0.5% Mucin + 0.2% λ-Carrageenan 9.41 × Comparative Example 1.13 0.5% κ-Carrageenan Na Salt + 0.2% Mucin 5.42 ○ Comparative Example 1.14 1.0% Mucin + 0.2% κ-Carrageenan Na Salt 8.92 × Comparative Example 1.15 1.0% mucin + 0.2% λ-carrageenan 8.50 ○

[0024]

[Table 2] ────────────────────────────────── Aqueous solution evaporation rate% Appearance ─────── ──────────────────────────── Example 1.1 0.7% κ-Carrageenan Na salt 5.93 ○ Example 1.2 0.7% κ-Carrageenan Na salt 5.61 ○ Example 1.3 0.5% κ-carrageenan Na salt + 0.2% locust bean gum 3.34 ○ Example 1.4 0.5% ι-carrageenan Na salt + 0.2% locust bean gum 3.64 ○ Example 1.5 0.5% λ-carrageenan +0. 2% Locust bean gum 3.42 ○ ─────────────────────────────────── It can be seen that as the moisturizing material, the locust bean gum (Comparative Example 1.1) has the highest moisturizing property (small evaporation rate). In addition, K salt or Ca salt containing κ, ι-carrageenan (Comparative Examples 1.2 and 1.3)
And κ, ι-carrageenan Na salt (Examples 1.1 and 1.2).
) Shows superior moisturizing properties to glycerin (Comparative Example 1.7) and phthalated collagen (Comparative Example 1.5) which have been conventionally used as moisturizing agents.

When a plurality of moisturizing materials are combined, ι-
The combination of a carrageenan Ca salt-containing material and locust bean gum (Comparative Example 1.8) has a very high moisturizing property but gels. Also, the combination of mucin with carrageenan or locust bean gum (Comparative Examples 1.9 to 1.15) has poor moisturizing properties. It was demonstrated that, as in Examples 1.3 to 1.5, when κ, ι-carrageenan Na salt and locust bean gum were combined, the moisturizing property was very high and gelation did not occur. In addition, in each of the examples, even if the temperature was changed, neither gelation nor viscosity was significantly changed. [Effect of Temperature Change] Next, the effect of temperature change on the viscosity characteristics of carrageenan was examined.

The viscosity of each of the above carrageenans was measured when the temperature was changed variously. The viscosity was measured by a conventional method. Table 3 shows the test results.

[0027]

[Table 3] ───────────────────────────────── Concentration Test Temperature Moisturizing material wt% 10 ℃ 20 ℃ 30 ℃ 40 ℃ ───────────────────────────────── κ-Carrageenan Na salt 1.0 110.0 97.5 67.5 52.5 〃 2.0 778.0 532.0 410.0 354.0 ι-carrageenan Na salt 1.0 106.0 86.0 50.0 26.0 〃 2.0 480.0 290.0 140.0 94.0 ι-carrageenan (containing Ca salt) 1.0 277.0 55.0 36.7 29.4 〃 2.0 2420.0 1336.0 182.5 102.0 ──────────── ───────────────────── Viscosity unit: cp * Tests were also performed on κ-carrageenan K and Ca salt-containing substances, but gelation occurred at 10 ° C. No viscosity measurement was performed.

As a result of the above, among the κ, ι-carrageenans, the K and Ca salt-containing substances cause an extreme increase or decrease in viscosity or gelation depending on the temperature change, whereas the Na salt has such a large viscosity. It turns out that it shows no change. -Skin cosmetics- The skin cosmetics according to the present invention and skin cosmetics using various conventional moisturizers were produced and their performances were compared. [Lotion] Lotion was manufactured with the following formulation.

% By weight Moisturizing material As shown in Table 4 Propylene glycol 3.0 Polyoxyethylene (25 mol) Oleyl alcohol ether 2.0 Ethyl alcohol 5.0 Perfume, preservative A suitable amount Purified water The balance 20 Used by a famous panelist, the feeling of use was evaluated for moist feeling and tackiness.
Table 4 shows the test results.

[0030]

[Table 4] ────────────────────────────────── Moisturizing feel Moisturizing material Yes No No No Yes No No No ────────────────────────────────── Example 2.1 ι-Carrageenan Na Salt 0.4% 17 3 0 0 1 19 + Locust bean gum 0.1% Example 2.2 ι-carrageenan Na salt 0.5% 15 3 2 0 2 18 Comparative example 2.1 Glycerin 0.5% 15 2 3 15 5 0 Comparative example 2.2 Locust bean gum 0.5% 14 4 2 2 3 15 Comparative example 2.3 Mucin 1.0% 11 2 7 13 3 4 + λ-carrageenan 0.2% ────────────────────────────────── Above The results show that glycerin (Comparative Example 2.1) and mucin + carrageenan (Comparative Example 2.3) had a sticky feeling, Over locust bean gum than was used alone (Comparative Example 2.2) is not a sufficient moist feeling, but also a little inferior sticky feeling. On the other hand, in the examples of the present invention, it was evaluated that there was a moist feeling and at the same time there was no sticky feeling, and it was demonstrated that extremely excellent performance as a skin cosmetic composition can be exhibited. In particular, ι-carrageenan Na salt + locust bean gum (Example 2.1) showed very good performance. [Wiping Facial Pack] A wiping facial pack was produced with the following composition.

% By weight Moisturizing material As shown in Table 5 Carboxyvinyl polymer 1.0 Polyoxyethylene (15 moles) Oleyl alcohol ether 1.0 Triethanolamine 1.0 Ethyl alcohol 5.0 Perfume, preservative A suitable amount Purified water Remainder production The wiped facial pack thus prepared was evaluated as described above. Table 5 shows the test results.

[0032]

[Table 5] ────────────────────────────────── Moisturizing feel Moisturizing material Yes No No No Yes No No No ────────────────────────────────── Example 3.1 κ-Carrageenan Na salt 0.4% 18 2 0 0 3 17 + Locust bean gum 0.1% Example 3.2 κ-carrageenan Na salt 0.5% 15 2 3 0 2 18 Comparative example 3.1 Phthalated collagen 0.5% 13 2 5 2 2 16 Comparative example 3.2 Mucin 1.0% 12 2 6 15 2 3 + Locust Bean gum 0.2% ────────────────────────────────── In light of the above results, in each comparative example Inferior feeling or sticky feeling, while in the embodiment of the present invention, there is a moist feeling and no sticky feeling at the same time. You can see that. Particularly, excellent performance is exhibited by κ-carrageenan Na salt + locust bean gum (Example 3.1). [Emulsion] An emulsion was produced with the following formulation.

Weight% Moisturizing Material As shown in Table 6, beeswax 2.0 lanolin 2.0 liquid paraffin 10.0 squalane 10.0 sorbitan sesquioleate 4.0 polyoxyethylene (20 mol) sorbitan monooleate 1. 0 Fragrance, antiseptic, appropriate amount, purified water, balance The produced emulsion was evaluated in the same manner as above. Table 6 shows the test results.

[0034]

[Table 6] ────────────────────────────────── Moisturizing feeling Moisturizing material Yes No No Yes No No No ────────────────────────────────── Example 4.1 λ-carrageenan 0.4% 17 2 1 0 3 17 + locust Bean gum 0.1% Comparative example 4.1 λ-carrageenan 0.5% 12 2 6 1 4 15 Comparative example 4.2 λ-carrageenan 0.4% + mucin 0.1% 11 2 7 2 4 14 ─────────────── ──────────────────── According to the above results, the comparative examples are inferior in moisturizing feeling, while the examples of the present invention are moisturizing feeling. There is no stickiness at the same time.

[0035]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION According to the moisturizing material and skin cosmetics of the present invention described above, the moisturizing property is very high, and when applied to the skin, there is a moist feeling and at the same time there is no sticky feeling, and Even if there is a change in environmental temperature, stable and good performance can be exhibited.

In particular, since carrageenan and locust bean gum, which are obtained from natural plant raw materials and have been used as additives for cosmetics and the like in the past, are used, there is no adverse effect on the skin, and the high levels as described above are used. It is excellent not only in performance but also in safety. In particular, κ, ι
-When carrageenan Na salt and locust bean gum are used in combination, it is possible to exert far superior performance than when each material is used alone, which greatly contributes to the performance improvement of the moisturizer or skin cosmetics. You can do it.

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A κ-carrageenan Na salt and / or an ι-carrageenan Na salt , wherein the residual K ion is
Carrage with 1.0% or less and Ca ions of 0.1% or less
-Moisturizing material consisting of Nan salt . Wherein κ- carrageenan Na salt, iota-carrageenan Na salts and selected from the group consisting of λ- carrageenan, and at least one carrageenan, residual
1.0% or less of retained K ions and 0.1% of Ca ions
A moisturizer consisting of the following carrageenan and locust bean gum. 3. Carrageenan and locust bean gum
Wherein the carrageenan is κ-carrageenan Na
Salt, i-carrageenan Na salt, and at least one carrageenan selected from the group consisting of λ-carrageenan , wherein the residual K ion is 1.0% or less, Ca
A skin cosmetic containing carrageenan with an ion content of 0.1% or less .