JP2019157309A - Knitted fabric comprising cellulosic filament - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a knitted fabric for clothing, which has both resilient feeling similar to that of a woven fabric (a jacket, pants) and bulky feeling unique to a knitted fabric, which has a soft and refreshing texture with cool feeling and has high drapability, and which is excellent in deep color tone and gloss similar to that of silk.SOLUTION: A knitted fabric comprises cellulosic filaments and polyester filaments. The cellulosic filaments have a moisture percentage (R) of 8 mass% or less. The blend ratio of the cellulosic filaments is 10 mass% or more. Preferably, the cellulosic filaments are cellulose acetate fiber filaments.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric. More specifically, the knitted fabric has both a harsh feeling like a woven fabric (jacket, pants) and a swelled feeling peculiar to knitted fabric, and has a soft, refreshing refreshing texture and high drape, and has a deep depth. The present invention relates to a knitted fabric for clothing excellent in color tone and silky luster.

  Conventionally, knitted fabrics made of polyester filaments have been widely used in the clothing field due to excellent dimensional stability due to heat setting properties and the surface with less fuzz. There is a problem that it is considered to be inferior to a high-class feeling due to the strong glossiness of the glare. In addition, a product using silk is known as a knitted fabric excellent in gloss, but a problem that it is difficult to handle such as washing in a general household is known.

  In order to solve such a problem, a method of obtaining a knitted fabric using a polyester filament and a highly hygroscopic cotton yarn twisted yarn has been proposed (Patent Document 1). However, the obtained knitted fabric is glossy due to fluff derived from cotton yarn. The feeling is inferior.

  In addition, the use of a twisted yarn of a rayon filament and a polyester filament is also adopted, but normal rayon has a problem of shrinkage due to water swellability, and problems such as washing shrinkage, shape stability, wet fastness, and water retention There are problems such as high properties and slow drying speed. In addition, if it is a knitted fabric using cotton or rayon spun yarn, it has a fluff appearance and texture peculiar to spun yarn, is inferior in quick-drying, and has a high-grade gloss and clear color development as the object of the present invention. It becomes a knitted fabric lacking.

JP-A-8-209476

  The present invention relates to a knitted fabric. More specifically, the knitted fabric has a harsh feeling like a woven fabric (jacket, pants) and a swelled feeling peculiar to knitted fabric, and has a soft and refreshing refreshing texture and a high drape. The object is to provide a knitted fabric for clothing having a certain color and silky luster.

1. A knitted fabric comprising cellulose filaments and polyester filaments, wherein the cellulose filaments have a moisture content (R) of 8% by mass or less, and the mixing rate of the cellulose filaments is 10% by mass or more.
2. The knitted fabric according to 1, wherein the cellulose filament is a cellulose acetate filament.

  According to the present invention, it has a feeling of elasticity and a swell peculiar to a knitted fabric, has a soft and refreshing feel and a high drape, and is excellent in deep color tone and silky luster. Knitting is obtained.

The knitted fabric of the present invention contains cellulose filaments and polyester filaments, the moisture content (R) of the cellulose filaments is 8% by mass or less, and the mixing rate of the cellulose filaments is 10% by mass or more.

Cellulose filaments and polyester filaments are contained, the moisture content (R) of the cellulose filaments is 8% by mass or less, and the mixing ratio of the cellulose filaments is 10% by mass or more. A refreshing texture is easily obtained.
From these viewpoints, the moisture content (R) is preferably 7% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or less. Further, the mixing ratio of the cellulose-based filament is preferably 20% by mass or more, and more preferably 30% by mass or more.

  Examples of the cellulose filament having a moisture content (R) of 8% or less according to the present invention include cellulose diacetate fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber, but the production method and type thereof are not particularly limited.

  Cellulosic filaments are not particularly limited in terms of the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, fineness, etc. of the single yarn, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the knitted fabric to be obtained.

  If the water content (R) of the cellulose filament exceeds 8%, the water swellability increases, problems such as selective shrinkage, shape stability, wet fastness, and uncomfortable feeling during sweating due to increased water retention. Due to problems such as low speed, the object of the present invention cannot be obtained.

  The polyester filament in the present invention is not limited to the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, fineness, etc. of the single yarn and the presence or absence of false twisting, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the knitted fabric to be obtained. .

  The cellulose-based filament and the polyester-based filament in the present invention are not limited to a knitted fabric design method such as twisting and knitting, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the knitted fabric to be obtained.

  The structure, density, basis weight, etc. of the knitted fabric in the present invention are not particularly expressed, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the knitted fabric to be obtained. In order to increase the sense of quality of the knitted fabric, it is desirable to use a knitting method in which cellulose-based filaments or a twisted yarn of cellulose-based filaments and polyester-based filaments is mainly arranged on the fabric surface and polyester-based filaments are arranged on the back surface of the fabric.

  In the present invention, a cellulose filament having a moisture content (R) of 8% or less is used in order to fully exhibit the refreshing refreshing feeling of the cellulose filament, the glossy silky luxury and the soft texture. The mixing ratio of 10% or more is necessary.

  A cellulose diacetate filament or a cellulose triacetate filament is preferably used as the cellulose filament having a water content (R) of 8% or less in the present invention. These are preferably used because they have excellent color developability due to a low refractive index, high-grade gloss, soft and refreshing texture derived from cellulose, disperse dyeability, and heat setting properties. .

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The performance evaluation in the examples was performed by the following method.
<Measurement method of moisture content (R)>
The moisture content (R) is obtained by taking 20 g of a sample, measuring the mass and absolute dry weight of the sample in the standard state, and calculating the moisture content (R) by the following formula, with one decimal place.
R (%) = [(m−m ′) / m ′] X100
m: Standard state mass of the sample (g)
m ′: absolute dry mass of the sample (g)
The mass in the standard state is pre-dried (the sample is kept constant in an environment where the relative humidity is 10 to 25% and the temperature does not exceed 50 ° C.) and then in the standard state (temperature 20 ± 2 ° C., relative humidity 65 ± 4%) is a mass in a state where it is left in a test room and becomes a constant weight. The absolutely dry mass is a mass in a state where the sample is left in a hot air dryer with a humidity of 105 ± 2 ° C. and becomes a constant weight.

<Texture evaluation>
Five evaluators evaluated in five stages by handling, and the average score was taken as the evaluation result.
The five-level evaluation is as follows. No. 5 has a soft swell and refreshing feeling, and exhibits high drape. 3 is texture and drape is normal. No. 1 has a hard texture and lacks drape.

<Tone and gloss evaluation>
Five evaluators evaluated visually in five stages, and the average score was taken as the evaluation result.
The five-level evaluation is as follows. 5 has an elegant gloss with a calm depth that is not a metallic luster. 3 has a metallic luster. 1 has no gloss.

<Evaluation of eyes>
Five evaluators evaluated visually in five stages, and the average score was taken as the evaluation result.
The five-level evaluation is as follows. 5 has a tight knitted fabric surface with few fluff and few spots. 3 is normal for fluff and knitted fabric surface. 1 has a lot of fuzz and the surface of the knitted fabric is rough.

Example 1
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament drawn yarn (Konriki Co., Ltd., semi-dal 22 dtex / 24 filament) are mixed with an interlace nozzle. After the entanglement treatment, a twisted yarn 1 was obtained by applying 300 times / m of twisted yarn by Z twisting. Using this twisted yarn 1, a smooth structure was knitted on a double-sided circular knitting machine according to the standard of 28 gauge 34 inches to obtain a knitting raw machine. The resulting knitted fabric machine was dyed and finished black with disperse dyes by a conventional method to obtain a knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 43 courses / inch. The resulting knitted fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross-sectional shape of cellulose triacetate, an elegant luster, and a uniform eye surface.

(Example 2)
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament stretched yarn (Kengriki Co., Ltd., semi-dial 22 dtex / 24 filament) are combined with a Pernwinder. Then, 300 times / m of twisted yarn was applied by Z twisting to obtain twisted yarn 2. A knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 43 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisted yarn 1 of Example 1 was changed to the twisted yarn 2. The obtained knitted fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling and a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate and an elegant luster.

(Example 3)
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament stretched yarn (Kengriki Co., Ltd., semi-dal 22 dtex / 24 filament) are interlaced with an interlace nozzle. The untwisted mixed yarn was obtained after the treatment. A knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 43 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisted yarn 1 of Example 1 was changed to the untwisted mixed yarn. The resulting knitted fabric has a refreshing soft texture and a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum cross-sectional shape of cellulose triacetate and a very elegant luster due to less twisting of the yarn surface due to untwisting Met.

(Comparative Example 1)
A knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisted yarn 1 used in Example 1 was changed to a polyester filament drawn yarn (manufactured in China, 110 dtex / 40 filament). The resulting knitted fabric was black lacking in depth due to the influence of the polyester filament, had a metallic luster without a sense of luxury, a hard waxy texture, and lacked a refreshing feeling and a sense of quality.

Example 4
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, Moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament (Kengroku Co., Semidall 22 dtex / 24 filament) are mixed and entangled with an interlace nozzle. After that, a twisted yarn 3 was obtained by applying a twisting of 1200 times / m by Z twisting. Using this twisted yarn 3, a mock-rod structure was knitted on a double-sided circular knitting machine according to the standard of 32 gauge 34 inches to obtain a knitting raw machine. The resulting knitted fabric machine was dyed and finished black with disperse dyes by a conventional method to obtain a knitted fabric having a finishing density of 57 wells / inch and 66 courses / inch. The resulting knitted fabric had a cool and swelled texture, a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate, and a draping property, and had a uniform eye surface.

(Example 5)
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament (constant power company, semi-dal 22 dtex / 24 filament) are combined with a pern winder and then Z A twisted yarn 4 was obtained by twisting 1200 times / m by twisting. A knitted fabric with finishing densities of 57 wells / inch and 66 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the twisted yarn 3 used in Example 4 was changed to the twisted yarn 4. The resulting knitted fabric had a refreshing and swelled texture and a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate and was excellent in draping properties.

(Comparative Example 2)
A knitted fabric having a finishing density of 57 wells / inch and 66 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the twisted yarn 3 used in Example 4 was changed to a drawn polyester yarn (110 dtex / 40 filament). . The resulting knitted fabric was black lacking in depth due to the influence of the polyester yarn, had a metallic luster without a sense of luxury, a hard waxy texture, and lacked a drape, a refreshing feeling and a sense of quality.

(Example 6)
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament false twisted yarn (Kenriki Co., Ltd., Semi-Dal 33 dtex / 24 filament) are mixed with an interlace nozzle. After the entanglement treatment, a twisted yarn of 1200 times / m was applied by Z twisting to obtain a twisted yarn 5. Using this twisted yarn 5, a tengu structure was knitted by a single circular knitting machine according to the standard of 32 gauge 26 inches to obtain a knitting machine. The resulting knitted fabric machine was dyed and finished in black with disperse dyes by a conventional method to obtain a knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 56 courses / inch. The resulting knitted fabric was cool and thin, but had a texture with a feeling of swelling, a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate and elegant luster, and a uniform eye surface. .

(Example 7)
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament false twisted yarn (manufactured by Hengshui Co., Ltd., Semi-Dal 33 dtex / 24 filament) After the yarn, a twisted yarn of 1200 times / m was applied by Z twisting to obtain a twisted yarn 6. A knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 56 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 6 except that the twisted yarn 5 used in Example 6 was changed to the twisted yarn 6. The resulting knitted fabric was cool and thin but had a swelled texture and a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate and an elegant luster.

(Comparative Example 3)
A knitted fabric having a finishing density of 48 wells / inch and 56 courses / inch was obtained in the same manner as in Example 6 except that the twisted yarn 5 used in Example 6 was changed to a polyester false twisted yarn (110 dtex / 40 filament). Obtained. The resulting knitted fabric was black lacking in depth due to the influence of the polyester yarn, and lacked drape and refreshment.

(Example 8)
Cellulose triacetate filament (Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) and polyester filament false twisted yarn (manufactured by Hengshui Co., Ltd., semi-dull 84 dtex / 96 filament) are combined with a Pernwinder. Then, 300 times / m of twisted yarn was applied by Z twisting to obtain twisted yarn 7. The twisted yarns 7 are arranged on the cylinder surface of a 24 gauge 30 inch double-sided knitting machine, the double-sided tack surface has a polyester filament false twisted yarn (manufactured by Hengchu Co., Semidal 167 dtex / 48 filament), and the dial surface has 26 cotton counts. A knitted fabric was formed by knitting a double face structure in which cotton yarns of − / − were arranged on the dial surface. The obtained knitting machine was dyed and finished in black with a reactive dye and a disperse dye by a conventional method to obtain a knitted fabric having a finishing density of 36 wells / inch and 27 courses / inch.
The resulting knitted fabric has a refreshing texture, a deep black color derived from the chrysanthemum-shaped cross section of cellulose triacetate and an elegant luster, excellent draping properties, and a good skin feel with the back surface derived from cotton. there were.

Example 9
Two cellulose triacetate filaments (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament, moisture content (R) 3.5%) were drawn and subjected to 1200 twists / m by S twist to obtain twisted yarn 8. Twist yarns 8 are arranged on the cylinder surface of a 24 gauge 30 inch double-sided knitting machine, polyester filament false twisted yarn (manufactured by Hengshui Co., Ltd., semidal 167 dtex / 48 filament) on the double-sided tack surface, and cotton count on the dial surface is 26 / -A knitted double-face structure in which cotton yarns were arranged was knitted to obtain a knitting machine. The resulting knitted fabric machine was dyed and finished black with disperse dyes by a conventional method to obtain a knitted fabric having a finishing density of 36 wells / inch and 26 courses / inch. The resulting knitted fabric has a refreshing swell texture, deep black color derived from chrysanthemum triacetate chrysanthemum cross-sectional shape, elegant luster, uniform eyes and skin derived from cotton It was a good touch.

(Comparative Example 4)
A knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 9, except that the cellulose triacetate filament of the twisted yarn 8 used in Example 9 was changed to a drawn polyester yarn (110 dtex / 40 filament). The resulting knitted fabric was black lacking in depth due to the influence of the polyester yarn, and lacked drape, coolness and luxury.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention has both a harsh feeling like a woven fabric (jacket, pants) and a swell characteristic peculiar to the knitted fabric, and has a soft and refreshing refreshing texture and a high draping property. Thus, the knitted fabric for clothing having excellent luster as described above can be provided, so that it is useful for development of uses such as general clothing, sports clothing, etc. mainly on women's clothing.

Claims (2)

  A knitted fabric comprising cellulose filaments and polyester filaments, wherein the cellulose filaments have a moisture content (R) of 8% by mass or less, and the mixing rate of the cellulose filaments is 10% by mass or more.   The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the cellulosic filament is a cellulose acetate filament.