JP2017537952A - Method for treating keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a composition for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, (a) at least one fatty substance, preferably in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, (b) at least One surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant, and (c) at least one alkaline agent, and (a) the amount of fatty substance is relative to the total mass of the composition , 30% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more. The composition according to the invention is an oil-rich composition comprising an alkaline agent, which makes it possible to achieve an excellent permanent performance that reduces or eliminates bad odor due to the reducing agent.

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a method using the composition.

  Many hair care products are currently marketed to facilitate styling, texturize and add some weight to hair, especially thin hair, among which foam and styling gels or hair lacquers are given as examples be able to. These products allow hair shaping but are removed by shampoo and therefore need to be applied daily.

  The most common technique for obtaining long-lasting hair deformation is to cleave the keratin SS disulfide bond (cystine) with a composition containing an appropriate reducing agent in the first step (reduction step), The treated hair is then generally rinsed with water, and then in a second step, preliminarily using, for example, a hair curler clip, to give the hair the desired shape. Reforming the disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition to the hair under tension (also referred to as oxidation process or fixation process).

  The deformed shapes imparted to the hair by chemical treatment, such as those described above, are the usual simple methods for temporarily reshaping hair by using foam, styling gel or lacquer Compared to, it lasts for a relatively long time and is particularly durable for cleaning operations with water or shampoo.

  Many compositions and methods have been proposed for deformation of the shape of keratin fibers. In general, they provide good performance on the day of treatment.

  For example, WO2011155076 discloses a permanent method including a step of applying a composition containing one or more alkaline agents to keratin fibers; a step of arranging keratin fibers in a sealed space; and a step of heating keratin fibers. JP-A-2008-081471 discloses a hair deforming agent comprising an oily material and an oil-soluble reducing agent in an amount of 85-99.9% by weight, JP-A-1993-306212 Disclosed is a hair deformation method characterized by applying a composition containing 100% by weight to hair and deforming it at a temperature of 50-250 ° C. Furthermore, WO2013098332 discloses a composition for reducing curling and / or curling hair comprising 20% by weight olive oil, 2.0% by weight monoethanolamine and 10.0% by weight urea.

However, the above-mentioned chemical treatment method that cannot be appropriate from the viewpoint of consumer expectation has the following various disadvantages.
-Short persistence to environmental stresses (e.g. brushing, frequent shampoo, mechanical forcing by light exposure),
-Insufficient perm efficiency for natural hair;
-Deterioration of the hair, especially in repeated application or in combination with other chemical treatments such as oxidative coloring;
-Malodor of thiol compounds during and after the permanent process,
-Long and complicated application process.

WO2011155076 JP-A-2008-081471 JP-A-1993-306212 WO2013098332 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 U.S. Pat.No. 2,781,354 U.S. Pat.No. 4,874,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180 US-A-5364633 US-A-5411744 European Patent Application Publication No. 0354835 European Patent Application No. 0368763 European Patent Application Publication No. 0432000 European Patent Application No. 0514282 French Patent Application Publication No. 2679448 French Patent Application Publication No. 2814948 French Patent Application Publication No. 2870119

Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 `` Handbook of Surfactants '' by M.R.Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178 `` The HLB system.A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection '' (announced by ICI Americas Inc., 1984)

  One object of the present invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, for reshaping keratin fibers containing an alkaline agent, which is capable of achieving an excellent perm performance that reduces or eliminates bad odor due to the reducing agent. Is to provide.

  It is also an object of the present invention to provide a method for re-forming keratin fibers using the above composition.

The above object is a composition for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair,
(a) at least one fatty substance, preferably in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure,
(b) at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant, and
(c) contains at least one alkaline agent,
(a) It can be achieved by a composition in which the amount of fatty substance is 30% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

  (a) The fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, vegetable or animal oils, ester oils or ether oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, (a) fatty substances, mineral oil, octyldodecanol, petrolatum, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, C _{20 to 22} alcohol, cetyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and It can be selected from the group consisting of mixtures thereof.

  The amount of (a) fatty substance may be 90% by mass or less, preferably 84.9% by mass or less, more preferably 65% by mass or less, with respect to the total mass of the composition.

  In a preferred embodiment, (b) the surfactant may consist solely of one or more nonionic surfactants.

  The nonionic surfactant may be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preferably polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, Preferably, it may be selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters.

  In a preferred embodiment, (b) the surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of Ores-20, Ores-10, Decess-5, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the amount of (b) at least one surfactant is 4% to 30% by weight, preferably 6% to 22% by weight, more preferably 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It can be ˜12% by weight.

  (c) The alkali agent can be selected from the group consisting of inorganic alkali agents, organic alkali agents, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, (c) the alkaline agent is ammonia; alkali metal hydroxide; alkaline earth metal hydroxide; alkali metal phosphate; monohydrogen phosphate; monoamine and derivatives thereof; diamine and derivatives thereof; Polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and their derivatives; and guanidine and their derivatives; and It can be selected from the group consisting of mixtures thereof.

  In a preferred embodiment, the amount of alkaline agent is 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, preferably 1% to 7% by weight, more preferably 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. obtain.

  In a preferred embodiment, the amount of inorganic alkaline agent can be 0.1% to 9.9% by weight, preferably 1% to 7% by weight, more preferably 2% to 5% by weight, or the amount of organic alkaline agent. May be 1.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, the composition of the present invention does not contain any reducing agent, or the reducing agent is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or more preferably 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Contains less than mass%.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise (d) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5. (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5 may be selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, and mixtures thereof. (d) The presence of an organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5 can further increase the reshaping efficiency such as the strong wave strength of the curled keratin fiber, and further reduce the damage to the keratin fiber. it can.

  In a preferred embodiment, (a) a fatty substance, (b) at least one surfactant and (c) at least one alkaline agent and (d) (if present) at least one having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5. Certain organic acid agents may be included in two or more separate compositions, preferably (a) at least one fatty substance and (b) at least one surfactant are in one composition. And (c) at least one alkaline agent and (d) (if present) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5 may be included in the other composition.

  The invention also relates to kits and instructions for use comprising the compositions of the invention.

The object is a method for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair,
Applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers;
Heating the keratin fibers to a temperature between 45 ° C. and 250 ° C. (step (1)),
In some cases, the step of further heating the keratin fibers to a temperature between 70 ° C. and 250 ° C. (heating step (2)),
It can also be achieved by a method comprising the steps of rinsing and drying keratin fibers.

  The method may further include rinsing the keratin fibers after applying the composition to the keratin fibers and before heating the keratin fibers.

  The method may further comprise the step of applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers, preferably by using a reshaping means selected from the group consisting of hair curl clips, rollers, clips, plates and irons.

  The method may not include the step of placing keratin fibers in the sealed space.

  In a preferred embodiment, the keratin fibers can be heated at a temperature in the range of 60 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably in the range of 60 ° C. to 90 ° C. during the process of heating the keratin fibers.

  The composition of the present invention can remove the thiol odor and severe hair damage caused by the reducing agent. Conventional formulations contain thioglycolic acid (eg, 10% by weight). Less hair damage encourages the customer to perform repeated application or treatment combinations such as perms and coloring.

It is a figure which shows the result of the test about the permanent efficiency between the composition whose fat substance is 35 mass%, and the composition whose fat substance is 20 mass%.

  The present invention is an oil for reshaping keratin fibers, comprising an alkaline agent containing a large amount of fatty substance, and a surfactant, capable of achieving excellent perm performance without using any reducing agent. The composition is rich in.

The composition according to the invention comprises:
(a) at least one fatty substance, preferably in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure,
(b) at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant,
(c) contains at least one alkaline agent,
(a) The amount of the fatty substance is 30% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise (d) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5.

(Fat substance)
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one fatty substance. Here, the “fatty substance” means a fatty compound or lipid that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 ° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the fatty substance, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

  (a) The fatty material can be a nonpolar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, etc .; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or animal oil and an ester oil or ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

  (a) The fatty substance may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

  Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, Mention may be made of soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

  Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isodecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oil, preferably a saturated or liquid esters of linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacid or polyacid unsaturated, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of these esters being 10 or more.

  Preferably, in the case of an ester of a monoalcohol, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the ester of the invention is derived is branched.

  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monoalcohols, among others, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carboxylate, alkyl myristate, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate And isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohol, and monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and non-sugar C _{4 to} C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol Ester can also be used.

  Diethyl sebacate, lauroyl sarcosyl isopropyl, diisopropyl sebacate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diadipate Isostearyl, bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl diheptanoate Particular mention may be made of glycol, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C _{6 to} C ₃₀ , preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. The term “sugar” means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound that contains or does not contain an aldehyde function or a ketone function, contains several alcohol functions, and contains at least 4 carbon atoms. It is recalled. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

  Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl Derivatives such as methyl glucose are included.

The sugar esters of fatty acids are especially from the group comprising the aforementioned sugars and esters or mixtures of esters with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. Can be chosen. When these compounds are unsaturated, they can have 1 to 3 conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

  Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

  These esters also include, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid. Esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

  More particularly, monoesters and diesters, in particular sucrose monooleate or dioleate, glucose or methylglucose, sucrose stearate, glucose or methylglucose, behenate sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, oleopalmitate sucrose, glucose or methyl Glucose, sucrose linoleate, glucose or methyl glucose, sucrose linolenate, glucose or methyl glucose, and oleostearic acid sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose are used.

  An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

  Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoic acid 2 -Ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octoate, caprylic acid / 2-ethylhexyl caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carboxylate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate Hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2 -Ethyl hexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate), and Mention may be made of glyceryl tris (caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

  Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc .; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane , Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid cyclohexasiloxane.

  These silicone oils can also be organically modified. Organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, which are silicone oils that contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked by a carbon-hydrogen group. is there.

  Organopolysiloxanes are defined in great detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. The organopolysiloxane may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are selected from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly from:
(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in detail under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by the company Rhodia, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials Dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane etc., for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.

For `` D '':

For D ':

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds such as, for example, a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1. Mention may be made of mixtures with '-bis (2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane;
(ii) A linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of not more than 5 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s at 25 ° C. For example, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in articles published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. More specifically, these non-volatile silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly cited.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned in a non-limiting manner:
-47 and 70 047 series Silbione® oil or Mirasil® oil sold by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil;
-Mirasil® series oil sold by Rhodia;
-200 series oils from Dow Corning, e.g. DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm ² / s;
-General Electric Viscasil (R) oil and General Electric SF series specific oil (SF 96, SF 18).

  Mention may also be made, for example, of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known by the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oil from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiaryl siloxanes, especially polydiphenyl siloxanes and polyalkylaryl siloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:
-70 641 series of Silbione® oil from Rhodia,
-Rhoodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia,
-Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning,
-Bayer PK series silicones, for example PK20 products,
-General Electric SF series specific oils such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

  Organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy groups and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Accordingly, mention may be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from:
Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C _{6 to} C ₁₆ lower alkanes (examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane And;
Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc .; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, And decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

(a) The fatty substance can be a fatty alcohol. The term "fatty alcohol", wherein, means a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols any saturated or unsaturated, in particular one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1-4) Optionally replaced by These compounds, when unsaturated, can contain 1 to 3 conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, for example, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols can be used. Among these, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl Mention may be made of alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

  (a) The fatty substance is still preferably selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

Preferably, (a) fatty substances, low molecular weight, less than e.g. 600 g / mol, ester oil or ether oil having a short chain hydrocarbon (C ₁ -C _12, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononyl, dicaprylyl carboxylic acid, ethylhexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether and lauroyl sarcosinate isopropyl), hydrocarbon oils having a short chain alkyl (C ₁ -C _12, such as isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), and octyl dodecanol Selected from short chain alcohol type oils.

(a) Fatty substances include hydrocarbon oils, esters of C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohols, and C _{4 to} C ₂₂ monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugars. It is also preferred that it is selected from the group consisting of C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy alcohol, C ₄ -C ₁₅ trihydroxy alcohol, tetrahydroxy alcohol or pentahydroxy alcohol.

  (a) The fatty substance is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils or ether oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, which are in liquid form at room temperature.

More preferably, (a) the fatty material is mineral oil, octyldodecanol, petrolatum, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, _C20-22 alcohol (i.e., _C20-22 fatty alcohol). , Cetyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferred that the (a) fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, _C20-22 alcohol, cetyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

  (a) The amount of the fatty substance in the composition according to the present invention is 30% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 84.9% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. % Or less, still more preferably in the range of 50% by mass or more and 65% by mass or less.

  According to the experiments by the present inventors, a composition having a fatty substance of 35% by mass indicates that the permanent efficiency is good (number of curls: 6), and a composition having 20% by mass has a low permanent efficiency. (Number of curls: 4) (FIG. 1).

(Surfactant)
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one surfactant.

  Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used.

  (B) surfactant used in the present invention is (b1) anionic surfactant, (b2) amphoteric surfactant, (b3) cationic surfactant and (b4) nonionic surfactant It can be selected from the group consisting of agents.

(b1) Anionic Surfactant According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants, sulfate (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfate (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfate (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylamido ether, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylsulfonic acids, sulfonic acids (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylamido, sulfonic acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl, alpha-olefin sulfonate, paraffin sulfonate; phosphate (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl; sulfosuccinates (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl, sulfosuccinic acid (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfosuccinic acid (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylamide; sulfoacetate (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl; (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl sarcosinates; (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl glutamates; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; sulfosuccinates (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycosides ; Sulfosuccinamatic acid (sulfosuccinamat) e) (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl; isethionate (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl; N- (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl taurine (taurate); C ₆ ~C ₃₀ fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; acid (C ₈ ~C ₂₀₎ acyl; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl -D- galactosideuronic salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylates; It is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl amide ether carboxylates.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from sulfuric acid (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylates.

  In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal salt, such as sodium; an alkaline earth metal salt, such as magnesium; an ammonium salt; an amine salt, and an amino alcohol salt. Etc. Depending on the conditions, the anionic surfactant may also be in the acid form.

(b2) Amphoteric Surfactant According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants are, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives. And the aliphatic group contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms and is soluble in water with at least one anionic group (e.g., carboxylate ion, sulfonate ion, sulfate ion, phosphate ion or phosphonic acid). A straight chain or branched chain containing ions).

  The amphoteric surfactant can preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, especially, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylbetaines (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkylamido It is preferably selected from the group consisting of (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamides (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant comprises (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl betaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl sulfobetaine, sulfobetaine and phosphobetaine. To be elected.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, Cocobetaine, Laurylbetaine, Cetylbetaine, Coco / Oleamidopropylbetaine, Cocamidopropylbetaine, Palmitoamidopropylbetaine, Steal The compounds classified under the names amidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain and coco sultain are mentioned singly or as a mixture be able to.

  The betaine type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives are described in U.S. Pat.Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, and are described in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference) and As classified by the name of amphocarboxypropionate, products sold under the name of Miranol can be mentioned, and the structure of each is as follows.
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -)
[Where
R ₁ means an alkyl group, heptyl group, nonyl group or undecyl group of R ₁ -COOH acid present in hydrolyzed coconut oil;
R ₂ means a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ means a carboxymethyl group]; and
R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C)
[Where
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C represents-(CH ₂ ) _z -Y ', z = 1 or 2,
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH group, a —CH ₂ —COOZ ′ group, a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH group, a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′ group or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ means —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′ or —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group,
Z ′ represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion such as a sodium ion, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
R ₁ 'is, R ₁ present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil' alkyl group -COOH _{acid, C 7, C 9, C} 11 or C ₁₃ alkyl group such as an alkyl group, C ₁₇ alkyl group and Its isoform, or unsaturated C ₁₇ group].

Amphoteric surfactants include (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amhomonoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amphodiacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amhomonopropionates, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) Preferably selected from alkyl amphodipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in the disodium cocoamphoniacetate, disodium lauroamphofoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , Caprylamphodipropionic acid disodium, caprylamphodipropionic acid disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

(b3) Cationic surfactant According to the present invention, the type of the cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
Includes those of the following general formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen, It is selected from linear and branched aliphatic groups. Aliphatic groups, e.g., alkyl group, alkoxy group, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene group, alkyl amide group, (C ₁₂ ~C ₂₂₎ alkylamido (C ₂ ~C ₆₎ alkyl group, (C ₁₂ ~ C ₂₂ ) may be selected from alkyl acetate groups and hydroxyalkyl groups, and aromatic groups such as aryl groups and alkylaryl groups, and X ⁻ represents halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, sulfuric acid (C ₂ -C ₆₎ selected from alkyl ion, sulfonate alkyl ion or a sulfonic acid alkyl aryl ions;
A quaternary ammonium salt of an imidazoline, such as the following formula (II)

[Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group;
X ⁻ is selected from halide ions, phosphate ions, acetate ions, lactate ions, alkyl sulfate ions, alkyl sulfonate ions, and alkyl aryl ions of sulfonates]. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R ₇ is methyl, R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and quaternium-83 sold by Witco under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. CTFA 1997);
Formula (III)

[Where
R ₉ is selected from an aliphatic group containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ group;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ,
X ⁻ is selected from halide ion, acetate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, ethyl sulfate ion and methyl sulfate ion].

Examples of one such diquaternary ammonium salt include FINNETT's FINQUAT CT-P (Quotanium-89) or FINNETEX's FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75); and a quaternary containing at least one ester functional group. Ammonium salts, such as the following formula (IV)

[Where
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group or dihydroxyalkyl group;
R ₂₃ is
The following groups:

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is
The following groups:

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r, t1 + 2t = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from organic and inorganic simple anions and complex anions, provided that the sum of x + y + z is in the range of 1 to 15, provided that when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ Where, when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ ]. R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a linear alkyl group. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, and a dihydroxypropyl group, for example, a methyl group and an ethyl group. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1-10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R _27, which is a long chain, it can include 12-22 of may include carbon atom, or 1 to 3 carbon atoms as short chain. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉ , this may comprise, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R _26, and R ₂₈ can be the same or different and are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C _21. It is selected from hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{11 to} C ₂₁ alkyl groups and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ can be selected from, for example, halide ions, such as chloride ions, bromide ions, and iodide ions; and sulfate C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl ions, such as methyl sulfate ions. However, anions derived from methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate and organic acids, such as acetate and lactate ions, and any other anion compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups. Ions are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride ion and methyl sulfate ion.

In another embodiment, an ammonium salt of formula (IV) can be used,
R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ₂₃ is
The following groups:

Methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, selected from hydrogen;
R ₂₅ is
The following groups:

And hydrogen;
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, Selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfuric acid. Salts, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride and methylsulfate As well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14-18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products are optionally obtained, for example, by direct esterification of oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine in fatty acids or in mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. Or it can obtain by transesterifying those methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and Selected from diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

  Such compounds, for example, are named Dehyquart® by Cognis, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca, and Rewoquat by Rewo-Goldschmidt. (Registered trademark) WE 18 ”.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. .

  Among the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the invention, but not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride. And alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyl chloride Trimethylammonium; cetrimonium chloride; behentrimonium chloride (docosyltrimethylammonium chloride); and Van Dyk, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 Alamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium is included.

  According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that can be used in the composition of the present invention is selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

(b4) Nonionic Surfactant According to the present invention, the type of nonionic surfactant is not limited. According to the present invention, the (b) surfactant is preferably a nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se (e.g. in this regard, `` Handbook of Surfactants '' by MRPorter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178. See). Thus, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from, for example, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, for example 8-30 It is possible that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups is in the range of 2-50 and the number of glycerol groups is in the range of 1-30. Mention may also be made of maltose derivatives. Without limitation, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; for example, polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2-30 mol of ethylene oxide; Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing glycerol groups such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2-30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils derived from plants; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters; (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl polyglycosides; N- (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides, for example, (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ alkylamine oxides or N- ( C ₁₀ -C ₁₄₎ acylaminopropylmorpholine O Sid; silicone surfactants, and mixtures thereof can also be mentioned again.

  The nonionic surfactant may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
Mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylphenols,
Saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched mono- oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol,
Linear or branched mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides of saturated or unsaturated,
Esters of linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of polyethylene glycol, saturated or unsaturated,
Mono oxyalkylenated or a polyoxyalkylene ester of a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and sorbitol,
Saturated or unsaturated monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
In particular, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, alone or as a mixture.

  The surfactant preferably comprises between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprises polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol of fatty acid). Ester).

Examples of the polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols which may be mentioned (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol), those containing adducts, in particular 3 to 10 oxyethylene units and decyl alcohol ethylene oxide, more detail Containing 5 to 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Decesses 5 to 7); adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units More particularly, containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-10 to Laureth-12); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular 9 to 50 oxyethylene units. Contained (CTFA name behenes-9 to behenez-50); cetearyl alcohol of ethylene oxide (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) Adducts, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteales-10 to Ceteares-50); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, especially 10 to 30 Containing oxyethylene units (CTFA names from ceteth-10 to ceteth-30); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names steareth- 2 to steareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (isosteales-10 to isosteales-50 as CTFA names); ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol Includes adducts, especially 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (ores-10 to ores-30 as CTFA names); and mixtures thereof The

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, it monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols, the following equation
RO- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _m -H or RO- [CH (CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ O] _m -H
[Wherein R represents a linear or branched C _{8 to} C ₄₀ , preferably a C _{8 to} C ₃₀ alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and m is 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 to 10. Represents a number].

  Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl containing 6 mol of glycerol Mention may be made of octadecanol containing 6 mol of alcohol and glycerol.

  Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistic, which means that in a commercial product, multiple polyglycerolated fatty alcohols coexist in the form of a mixture. It means getting.

Among other monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, the use of C ₁₂ alcohol containing C ₁₀ / C ₁₂ alcohol and glycerol 1.5mol containing C ₈ / C ₁₀ alcohol containing glycerol 1mol, glycerol 1mol preferable.

Mono- or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters, the following equation
R'O- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OR ''')-O] _m -R''orR'O- [CH (CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R ''
Wherein each of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C _{8 to} C ₄₀ , preferably C _{8 to} C ₃₀ alkyl-CO— or alkenyl. -CO- group independently, provided that at least one of R ', R''andR''' is not a hydrogen atom and m is a number in the range 1-30, preferably 1.5-10. Corresponds to].

  Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular 9 to 100 oxyethylene units. Contains, for example, PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 (as CTFA name: PEG-palmitate) 9 to PEG-50 palmitate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as CTFA names: PEG-9 to stearate PEG-50); palmitostearate PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate PEG-50 to behenate PEG-50); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof .

According to one embodiment according to the invention, the nonionic surfactant is for example with a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. , esters of polyols, and preferably 10 to 200, containing more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, for example C ₈ -C _24, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ glyceryl esters of fatty acids, preferably polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof containing 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids And sorbitol esters with their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives containing preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , Preferably sugars (sucrose, maltose, glucose, with C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives containing preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units. fructose, and / or alkyl glycose) esters; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar and C ₈ -C _24, preferably an ether of a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; may be selected from and mixtures thereof.

  As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (mono, di and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited and their polyoxyalkylenation Derivatives include mono, di or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono, diesters). And / or tristearic acid), for example PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono, di and / or tristearic acid).

  Mixtures of these surfactants, for example, products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema, and stearic acid marketed under the name TEGIN by the company Goldschmidt Products containing glyceryl (mono- and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) and the like can also be used.

Sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, esters of alkoxylated sorbitan containing sorbitan trioleate and fatty acids and for example 20 to 100 EO, for example ICI Sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by the company (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), and Sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI, sold under the trade name Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Unisorba or polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) May be selected from the compounds.

  As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, eg methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, eg methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty ester, methyl Diester of glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate), mixed ester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: dioleic acid / methyl stearic acid hydroxyglucose), methyl glucoside and isostearic acid Esters (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate), Esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate), Mixtures of monoesters and diesters of tilglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), especially Mention may be made of the products marketed by AMERCHOL under the name Glucate SS and mixtures thereof.

  As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, especially polyethylene glycol ethers of diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG distearate) -20 methyl glucose), for example, the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearic acid by the company AMERCHOL, a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide ( CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular, products marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and those marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and their The mixture For example.

  As sucrose esters, mention may be made, for example, of palmito-stearate saccharose, stearate saccharose and monolaurate saccharose.

  Alkyl polyglucosides can be used as sugar ethers, for example, decyl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLATAREN 2000 by Henkel, and Caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, for example, lauryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF For example, products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Henkel, coco-glucoside, such as products marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by the company Henkel, in some cases with cetostearyl alcohol Cetostearyl glucoside that is mixed, for example by the name of MONTANOV 68 by Seppic , Sold under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by the company Henkel, in the form of a mixture of arachidyl glucosides, for example arachidyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, by the MONTANOV 202 by the Seppic company The cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a (35/65) mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic, and mixtures thereof in particular Can be quoted.

  Mention may also be made of mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils, such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides.

Nonionic surfactants according to the present invention preferably comprise alkenyl or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acyl chains, such as oleyl or isostearyl groups. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one embodiment according to the invention, the nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular:
HO (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _c H
Wherein a, b and c are integers such that a + b is in the range from 2 to 100 and b is in the range from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof. .

  According to one embodiment according to the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Although not restricted to this, what is indicated by literature of US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744 can be mentioned.

  The silicone surfactant is preferably of formula (V):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ Represents at least one R ₁ , R ₂ , or R ₃ group is not an alkyl group; R ₄ is a hydrogen, alkyl group or acyl group;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer in the range 0-50, provided that A and B are not simultaneously 0;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer in the range of 0-5].

  According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (V), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2-6 and y is an integer in the range of 4-30. is there.

  Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (V) include those of formula (VI)

In the formula, A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20. .

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (V) include those of formula (VII)
H- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (VII)
Mention may also be made of compounds wherein A ′ and y are integers in the range of 10-20.

  The compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold under the names DC5329, DC7439-146, DC2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning. Compounds DC5329, DC7439-146 and DC2-5695 are compounds of formula (II), DC5329 has A of 22, B of 2, y of 12, respectively; DC7439-146 has A of 103, B Is 10 and y is 12; DC2-5695 is 27 for A, 3 for B, and 12 for y.

  Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (VII) [A is 15 and y is 13.]

  The HLB of the nonionic surfactant can be greater than 8, preferably greater than 9, more preferably greater than 10. When using two or more nonionic surfactants, the HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all nonionic surfactants. HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). If the nonionic surfactant HLB is lower than 8, it should remain oily after rinsing. If the nonionic surfactant HLB is higher than 13, the removability of the composition should be poor.

Preferred nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention of the present application, C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ethers and C ₄ -C thereof with polyoxyalkylenated derivatives It can be selected from polypropylene glycol ethers of ₂₄ fatty alcohols such as PPG-14 butyl ether and PPG-15 stearyl ether.

  In a preferred embodiment, (b) the surfactant may consist solely of one or more nonionic surfactants.

  In a preferred embodiment, (b) the surfactant may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant.

  Preferred nonionic surfactants that can be used in the inventive compositions of the present application are Ores-20, Ores-10, Decess-5, Steareth-2, Steareth-20, Ceteares-33, PPG-14 It can be selected from butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably can be selected from Ores-20, Ores-10, Decess-5, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, (b) the surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of Ores-20, Ores-10, Decess-5, and mixtures thereof.

  (b) The amount of the at least one nonionic surfactant is 4% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 6% by mass to 22% by mass, more preferably 6% by mass to the total mass of the composition. It can be 12% by weight.

(Alkaline agent)
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one alkaline agent.

  The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. Inorganic alkaline agents include ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate; ammonium hydroxide and bicarbonate It is preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonium.

  Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide and ammonium hydrogen carbonate are preferable.

  The alkaline agent can be an organic alkaline agent. Organic alkaline agents include monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives Preferably selected from the group consisting of: polymers of: urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

  Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines such as mono, di and triethanolamine and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as the following structures:

[Where
R is an alkylene, for example represents a propylene is optionally substituted with hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R _1, R _2, R ₃ and R ₄ are independently hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a C ₁ ~ C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof].

  (c) The alkali agent is selected from nonvolatile alkali agents, and more preferably selected from organic amines, inorganic bases, organic amine salts, and ammonium salts.

  Nonvolatile alkaline agent is alkali metal hydroxide; alkaline earth metal hydroxide; alkali metal carbonate (hydrogen) salt; alkaline earth metal carbonate (hydrogen) salt; ammonium carbonate (hydrogen); alkali metal metasilicate, It can be an inorganic alkaline agent selected from ammonium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

  Nonvolatile alkaline agents include monoamines and monoamine derivatives and salts; diamines and diamine derivatives and salts; polyamines and polyamine derivatives and salts; amino acids and derivatives thereof; amino acids and oligomers of their derivatives; amino acids and derivatives thereof. It can be an organic alkaline agent selected from polymers; urea and derivatives thereof; guanidine and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, (c) the alkali agent may be selected from the group consisting of inorganic alkali agents, organic alkali agents, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, (c) the alkaline agent is ammonia; alkali metal hydroxide; alkaline earth metal hydroxide; alkali metal phosphate; monohydrogen phosphate; monoamine and derivatives thereof; diamine and derivatives thereof; Polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and their derivatives; and guanidine and their derivatives; and It can be selected from the group consisting of mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile alkaline agent is preferably selected from alkali metal hydroxides and alkanolamines, more preferably sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and monoisopropanolamine.

  The amount of the inorganic alkaline agent can be from 0.1% to 9.9% by weight, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, or organic The amount of the alkaline agent may be 1.1 mass% to 10 mass%, preferably 1.5 mass% to 7 mass%, more preferably 2 mass% to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition.

(Organic acid agent with pKa value less than 3.5)
The composition according to the invention may further comprise (d) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5. Two or more kinds of (d) organic acid agents having a pKa value of less than 3.5 can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 or a combination of different types of organic acid agents having a pKa value of less than 3.5 may be used.

  The pKa value can be measured at 25 ° C.

  (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 has at least one pKa value of less than 3.5 and may have two or more pKa values. (d) If the organic acid agent has two or more pKa values, at least one of the pKa values must be in the range of less than 3.5.

  It should be recalled that the term “organic” means that the acidic agent has at least one carbon atom in its chemical structure.

  (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 is preferably non-volatile. It should be recalled that the term “non-volatile” means that the acid agent generally has a vapor pressure below 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) at room temperature.

  (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 is a carboxylic acid, aminosulfonic acid, amino acid such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, It may be selected from the group consisting of threonine, valine, tryptophan, tyrosine, amino acid oligomers such as glycylglycine, and mixtures thereof.

  The carboxylic acid having a pKa value of less than 3.5 can be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid, phthalic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The aminosulfonic acid having a pKa value of less than 3.5 can be selected from the group consisting of taurine, 2- (cyclohexylamino) ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 is preferably selected from taurine, 2- (cyclohexylamino) ethanesulfonic acid, an amino acid having a pKa value of less than 3.5, and mixtures thereof.

  The amino acids that can be used according to the present invention can be α-amino acids, β-amino acids, or γ-amino acids. Preferably, the amino acids used in the present invention are α-amino acids, ie they contain an amine function and an acid function at the same carbon atom.

  The α-amino acid can be represented by the following formula (I).

[Where
when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom, optionally an aliphatic group containing one or more nitrogen atoms, heterocyclic moieties, or aromatic groups, or
When p = 1, R can form a heterocyclic ring with the nitrogen atom of —N (H) _p . The heterocycle is preferably a saturated 5-membered ring optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical; a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups; linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl radical; a linear or branched (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl) thio (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl group; a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ carboxyalkyl radical; a linear Or a branched ureidoalkyl group, a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group, a linear or branched imidazoloalkyl group or a linear or branched indolylalkyl group, 1 to 4 carbon atoms The alkyl part of these last 4 groups, including

Preferably, the aromatic group is a C ₆ aryl or C ₇ -C ₁₀ aralkyl group, and the aromatic nucleus is optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyl groups. .

  The amino acid is preferably selected from acidic amino acids and neutral amino acids. The term “neutral amino acid” is intended to mean an amino acid whose pH is between 5 and 7 inclusive in water at room temperature (25 ° C.). The term “acidic amino acid” is intended to mean an amino acid whose pH is less than 5 in water at room temperature.

  Acidic and neutral amino acids that can be used in the present invention include aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, asparagine, carnitine, glutamine, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. Can be mentioned.

  (d) The organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 can have two or more carboxylic acids such as aspartic acid and glutamic acid.

  (d) The organic acid agent preferably has a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5, more preferably 1.0 to 3.0, and even more preferably 1.5 to 2.8.

  The (d) organic acid agent having a pKa value of less than 3.5 is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycine, taurine, alanine, proline, 2- (cyclohexylamino) ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of organic acid agent having a (d) pKa value of less than 3.5 in the composition according to the invention is 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be ˜17% by weight.

(Other ingredients)
(Ingredients common to cosmetic compositions)
The composition according to the invention also contains effective amounts of other ingredients that are common in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, vitamins such as vitamin C, anti-aging agents, whitening agents, anti-greasy skin agents, EDTA And sequestering agents such as 5 sodium pentetate, UV screening agents, antioxidants such as vitamin C and sodium pyrosulfite, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, Plant extracts, cationic polymers and the like can also be included.

  Thickeners are, for example, cellulose-based thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose; guar gum and their derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar marketed under the reference JAGUAR HP105 by RHODIA Microbial gums such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum; and homopolymers crosslinked by synthetic thickeners such as cetyl stearyl alcohol, acrylic acid and acrylamide propane sulfonic acid such as carbomers, nonionic, anionic, Cationic and amphoteric associative polymers, for example, PEMULEN TR1 and TR2 by GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 by ALLIED COLLOIDS, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 and 46 by ROHM & HAAS And by AKZO It may be selected from the polymers sold under the name Elfacos T210 and T212.

(Reducing agent)
The composition according to the invention may contain a reducing agent; however, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention contains a small amount of reducing agent, preferably no reducing agent.

  The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent.

The term “thiol reducing agent” here means a reducing agent having at least one thiol group. The thiol reducing agent is preferably thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof, such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; dithioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof, such as glycerol dithioglycolate. Or dithioglycolic acid glycol; thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, particularly esters thereof, such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, particularly esters thereof, such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene 3-mercaptopropionate Glycol; cysteamine and their derivatives, in particular its C _1-4 acyl derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; thioglycerol, such as monothioglycerol And their derivatives, especially esters; cysteine and their derivatives, especially esters, such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; reduced forms of glutathione; mercaptosuccinic acid; and their salts Can be selected from a group.

  Examples of the salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine and triethanolamine, respectively.

  Other suitable examples of thiol reducing agents that can be used in cosmetic compositions for the present invention include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N- (mercapto-2-ethyl ) Gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantethein; N- (mercaptoalkyl) ω-hydroxyalkylamide, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0354835 and N-mono -Or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, such as those described in EP-A-0368763; aminomercaptoalkylamides, such as those described in EP-A-0432000 and alkylaminomercapto Alkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application 0514282; (2/3) hydroxy-2propylthioglycol Rate; as well as French patent application publication hydroxy-2-methyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate based mixture described in No. 2,679,448 (67/33) is.

  The thiol reducing agent has the following chemical formula (VIII):

[Where
X is a structure selected from the group consisting of -O-, -S-, -NH-, and -NR ^1- ;
R ¹ is an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R ² is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
Y is an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom;
R is a divalent organic residue optionally having a mercapto group].

X is preferably —O—, —NH—, —NCH ₃ — or —S— from the viewpoint of preparation of a permanent solution, when the compound exhibits a relatively high solubility in an aqueous permanent solution.

  Y is an oxygen atom or a sulfur atom, and more preferably an oxygen atom, from the viewpoints of industrial applicability and handleability.

R ² can be a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or a propyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group.

  R is a divalent organic residue optionally having a mercapto (—SH) group. R is not particularly limited as long as it is a divalent organic group, and may be an alkylene group. The main chain of the alkylene group can have 2 to 6 carbon atoms. The divalent organic residue may have a branched chain or a side chain. Examples of the side chain include an alkyl group and an alkenyl group.

  When R is substituted with a mercapto group, one or more mercapto groups may be present.

  The term “non-thiol reducing agent” as used herein means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent is selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite. Can be done.

  As sulfinates, mention may be made of sulfinates and benzenesulfinates, such as their sodium salts. The sulfinic acid derivatives described in French patent application 2814948 can also be used. A preferred sulfinate compound is 2-hydroxy-2-sulfinatoacetic acid disodium salt.

  Examples of phosphine include monophosphine and diphosphine described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2870119. According to one detailed embodiment of the invention, the phosphine has the following formula (IX)

[Where
L is a linker representing a covalent bond or a divalent hydrocarbon group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms selected from an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom and a silicon atom;
m is an integer equal to 0 or 1;
q is an integer equal to 1 or 2;
p is an integer equal to 0 or 1;
R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ may be the same or different;
Hydrogen atom;
Halogen atoms;
A hydroxyl group;
A carboxyl group;
A monovalent hydrocarbon group (optionally containing one or more heteroatoms selected from a sulfur atom, an oxygen atom, a nitrogen atom, a phosphorus atom and a silicon atom,
Halogen atoms,
Hydroxyl group,
An alkoxy group,
A haloalkyl group,
An amino group,
Carboxyl group,
An alkoxycarbonyl group,
An amide group,
An alkylaminocarbonyl group,
An acylamino group,
Mono or di (alkyl) amino groups,
A mono or di (hydroxyalkyl) amino group,
An N-aryl-N-alkylamino group,
An aromatic ring or an aromatic heterocyclic ring, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more groups selected from a halogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group and a mono- or di (alkyl) amino group,
Groups that enhance the solubility of phosphine in cyano group water, such as sulfonic acid groups, sulfinic acid groups, phosphonic acid groups or carboxylic acid groups,
A substituted or unsubstituted aromatic or non-aromatic heterocyclic group;
A substituted or unsubstituted aryl group;
A substituted or unsubstituted arylalkyl group;
An arylalkyloxy group;
A substituted or unsubstituted aromatic or non-aromatic heterocyclic group;
Optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from silyl groups,
When q = 1, m = 0, p = 1,
When q = 2, m = 1, p = 0 or 1, in that case
When p = 0, the linker L is attached to the phosphorus atom,
When p = 1, the linker L can be selected from the compounds of [understanding that it is attached to one of R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ ] and their acid addition salts.

  In all of the above definitions, when a group is substituted, the substituent is selected from halo, hydroxyl, alkyl, haloalkyl, alkoxy, amino, mono or dialkylamino, mono or dihydroxyalkylamino and carboxyl. For example, a p-methoxyphenyl group is a substituted aryl group.

R ³¹ group, R ³² group and R ³³ group may not represent hydrogen atoms at the same time.

In some cases, at least one of R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ represents an optionally substituted alkyl group as a hydrocarbon group.

For example, R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ are each a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group; a cycloalkyl group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups; an alkoxy group; an alkoxyalkyl group; a haloalkyl group; a cyanoalkyl group; a hydroxy group Alkyl group; carboxyalkyl group; halogen atom; hydroxyl group; carboxyl group; alkenyl group; mono or dialkylamino group; N-aryl-N-alkylaminoalkyl group; alkyl group, alkoxy group, mono or dialkylamino group, mono or An aryl group optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from dialkylaminoalkyl groups, haloalkyl groups, hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups, halogen atoms, and aryl groups substituted with mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl groups; arylalkyl Group; arylalkyloxy group; pyrrolidino group; Group; a morpholino group; a thienyl group; a pyridyl group; a trialkylsilyl group; and pyrrolidino group, a furyl group, selected from alkyl group substituted with a morpholino group or a thienyl group.

For example, R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ are each a hydrogen atom; a methyl group; an ethyl group; a propyl group; an isopropyl group; an n-butyl group; an isobutyl group; a tert-butyl group; an octyl group; a cyclohexyl group; a cyclopentyl group; Methoxy group; ethoxy group; methoxypropyl group; chloroethyl group; cyanoethyl group; hydroxymethyl group; hydroxypropyl group; carboxyethyl group; chlorine atom; hydroxyl group; carboxyl group; trifluoromethyl group; chloromethyl group; allyl group; vinyl Group; dimethylamino group; diethylamino group; di (isopropyl) amino group; phenyl group; o-tolyl group; m-tolyl group; p-tolyl group; dimethylphenyl group; trimethylphenyl group; o-methoxyphenyl group; m- Methoxyphenyl group; p-methoxyphenyl group; dimethoxyphenyl group; trimethoxyphenyl group; o- (dimethylamino) phenyl group; m- (dimethylamino) phenol P- (dimethylamino) phenyl group; di (tert-butyl) phenyl group; tri (tert-butyl) phenyl group; trifluoromethylphenyl group; bis (trifluoromethyl) phenyl group; o-fluorophenyl group m-fluorophenyl group; p-fluorophenyl group; o-chlorophenyl group; m-chlorophenyl group; p-chlorophenyl group; o-hydroxyphenyl group; m-hydroxyphenyl group; p-hydroxyphenyl group; 4- (diethylamino) Methyl) phenyl group; 3,5-dimethyl-4-methoxyphenyl group; 2-methylbiphenyl group; benzyl group; benzyloxy group; naphthyl group; morpholino group; morpholinomethyl group; pyrrolidino group; furyl group; pyridyl group; thienyl Groups; trimethylsilyl group; 2- (4-diethylaminomethylphenyl) phenyl group; 5-methyl-2-isopropylcyclohexyl group; N-methyl-N-phenylaminomethyl group; and carboxy It can be chosen from Eniru group.

  The non-thiol reducing agent can be selected from sulfites, bisulfites and phosphines.

  Sulfur-containing reducing agents are 2-mercapto-4-butanolide, glutathione, thioglycolic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiolactic acid, L-cysteine, cysteamine, thioglycerol, L-cysteine methyl ester, L-cysteine ethyl ester , Mercaptosuccinic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

  In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the invention may comprise less than 1% of a reducing agent, for example less than 0.5%, or less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain any reducing agent.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more polyols. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 20% by weight of polyol, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, which are low molecular weight aqueous solutions having two or more hydroxyl groups. It may be an organic compound such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, triethylene glycol, a polyol for use in the present invention, hexylene glycol.

[Preparation]
The composition comprises as essential components: (a) at least one fatty substance; (b) at least one surfactant; and (c) at least one alkaline agent, preferably (d) having a pKa value of 0.5 to It can be prepared by mixing at least one organic acid agent that is 3.5, as well as the optional ingredients described above.

  The methods and means for mixing the above essential and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the invention is preferably a ready-to-use composition.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “ready-to-use composition” is defined herein as a composition that is immediately applied to keratin fibers such as hair. The “ready-to-use composition” can be stored in an unmodified form before use, or two or more separate compositions can be produced by mixing at the time of use. In one embodiment, one of the separate compositions may comprise (a) at least one fatty substance and (b) at least one surfactant, and the other of the separate compositions is (c) at least One alkali agent may be included, preferably (d) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5.

  In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, before use, preferably at a temperature of about 70 ° C., a first comprising (a) at least one fatty substance and (b) at least one surfactant. Mixing a composition and a second composition comprising (c) at least one alkaline agent, preferably having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5, and (d) at least one organic acid agent, and cooling the mixture to room temperature It is preferable that it is obtained by doing.

[kit]
In some embodiments, the present invention provides kits comprising the compositions of the invention and instructions for use.

  Preferably, the instructions indicate that the composition according to the present invention has a temperature between 45 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably between 60 ° C and 200 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 150 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 90 ° C. The description used in the method for reshaping keratin fibers, including at least the step of heating the keratin fibers (heating step (1)) is included. In some embodiments, after step (1) of heating the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers are 70 ° C to 250 ° C, preferably 80 ° C to 200 ° C, more preferably 90 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C. A step of heating to a temperature between 0 ° C. and 130 ° C. can be performed (heating step (2)). In particular, when (d) at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5 is present, the heating step (2) can be preferably performed.

  In some embodiments, the kit can contain, for example, a glove or conditioning rinse.

  In some other embodiments, the developer bottle can contain a solution comprising hydrogen peroxide.

  In yet other embodiments, one or more components (a)-(c) of the composition of the present invention are packaged separately from the other components.

[Keratin fiber reshaping method]
The invention also relates to a method using the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the method according to the invention is aimed at reshaping keratin fibers, such as hair.

A method for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention comprises:
Applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers;
A step of heating keratin fibers to a temperature between 45 ° C. and 250 ° C. (heating step (1));
In some cases, the keratin fiber is further heated to a temperature between 70 ° C. and 250 ° C. (heating step (2)),
The keratin fibers can be rinsed and dried.

  The heating process can be performed by any heating means that can be freely controlled to achieve the desired temperature for the process.

  A thermal energy source is used to heat the keratin fibers. The thermal energy source may be at least one heater that supplies at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared irradiation, laser and flash lamp irradiation.

  According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are 45 ° C to 250 ° C, preferably 60 ° C to 200 ° C, more preferably 60 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 60 ° C to 90 ° C during the process of heating the keratin fibers. Heated. In some embodiments, after the heating step (1) of heating the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers are 70 ° C to 250 ° C, preferably 80 ° C to 200 ° C, during the heating step (2) of heating the keratin fibers, More preferably, it is further heated at 90 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 130 ° C.

  Thus, the composition according to the invention heats keratin fibers to a temperature between 45 ° C. and 250 ° C., preferably 60 ° C. to 200 ° C., more preferably 60 ° C. to 150 ° C., more preferably 60 ° C. to 90 ° C. It can be used in a method for reshaping keratin fibers, including at least a step (heating step (1)). Preferably, after the heating step (1) of heating the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers are 70 ° C to 250 ° C, preferably 80 ° C to 200 ° C, more preferably 90 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 130 ° C. A step of heating to a temperature between 0 ° C. can be performed (heating step (2)).

  Heating steps (1) and (2) can be performed independently for an appropriate time required to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for each of the heating steps (1) and (2) is not limited, but may be 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes. For example, the time for the heating step (1) may be 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes. For example, the time for the heating step (2) may be 10 to 25 minutes, preferably 15 to 20 minutes.

  The keratin fibers can be rinsed after the step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers and / or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.

  According to the present invention for a method of reshaping keratin fibers, the keratin fibers can be subjected to mechanical tension typically used for permanent deformation.

  The reshaping method for keratin fibers can be carried out as follows when mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers.

  First, mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fiber for deformation. Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means that transforms the keratin fibers into the intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension can be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of hair curl clips, rollers, clips, plates and irons. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater as described above. When keratin fibers are wound around a hair curl clip, this winding can be done for the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, for half the length of the keratin fibers. For example, depending on the shape of the desired hairstyle and the amount of curl, winding can be done in a somewhat thick bundle.

  Next, the aforementioned composition is applied to keratin fibers. The composition can be applied by any means such as a brush and a comb. Keratin fibers that have been subjected to mechanical tension should be treated with the composition. If necessary, the keratin fibers may be allowed to stand as they are for a certain length of time.

  Finally, the above heating process is performed.

  This reshaping process for keratin fibers can be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers. Therefore, the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shortened compared to the time required for the conventional process requiring an oxidation step. Furthermore, damage to the keratin fibers due to the oxidation process can be avoided.

  In one embodiment, at least one of the reshaping means or the mechanical tensioning means may include a heater.

  In one embodiment, the method according to the present invention comprises a keratin fiber wherein the composition according to the present invention is applied to form one or more sealed spaces (sealed spaces) on the keratin fiber prior to the heating step. May not include the step of installing one or more means for coating. Therefore, the method according to the present invention may not include the step of arranging keratin fibers in the sealed space.

  The sealed space is formed by at least one coating means to limit evaporative components such as water from evaporating from the keratin fibers in the aforementioned composition and to maintain a predetermined temperature in the heating apparatus throughout the method. be able to.

  The invention will now be described in greater detail by way of example. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3)
[Preparation]
Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1, respectively.

Preparation procedure for the composition (Comparative Example 1)
1) C _{20 to 22} alcohol, cetyl palmitate, oleth-20, was obtained by dissolving the mineral oil mineral oil phase in the oleth-10 and Desesu -5 70 ° C..
2) Ethanolamine was dissolved in water at 70 ° C. to obtain an aqueous phase.
3) The aqueous phase was poured into the mineral oil phase and the mixture was stirred at 70 ° C.
4) Carbomer was added to the mixture.
5) The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

Similarly, the compositions of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were also prepared.

[Evaluation of perm effectiveness]
(Evaluation protocol)
1) Each composition (1 g) of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied to a Chinese hair sample (1 g).
2) A hair sample was wound around a permanent roller with a diameter of 1.6 cm.
3) The perm-roller was connected to a digital perm machine (Daihiro Seisakusho, ODIS-2 model) and heated at 90 ° C for 15 minutes.
4) The hair sample was rinsed and dried.
5) The effectiveness of the perm was evaluated based on the number of curls on the hair sample.

  These results are shown in Table 3.

[Permanent effectiveness results]

  As shown in Table 3, the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 showed very high perm effectiveness.

  From the results of Example 1 compared to the results of Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the alkaline agent provides excellent effectiveness of the permanent in the case of Example 1. Furthermore, when considering the results of Example 1 compared to the results of Example 1 or Comparative Example 3 compared to the results of Comparative Example 2, the fatty substances and surfactants are excellent in perm in the case of Examples 1 and 2. It can be understood that it also contributes to the effectiveness.

  Thus, it has been demonstrated that an oil-rich composition containing an alkaline agent of the present invention can achieve excellent perm performance without using any reducing agent.

  Furthermore, when the composition of Example 1 was used, but the perm-roller was allowed to stand at room temperature during step 3) of the aforementioned evaluation protocol, the effectiveness of the perm of Example 1 is that of the perm of another experiment. It was even better than sex. Further, when comparing the permanent efficiency of the modified composition of Example 1 in which the total amount of (a) fatty substance was changed to 35% by mass or 20% by mass, the fatty substance (B) was 35% by mass. The composition shows good perm efficiency (number of curls: 6), and the composition of 20% by weight (A) shows low perm efficiency (number of curls: 4) (FIG. 1).

(Examples 3 to 5)
[Preparation]
Each of the compositions according to Examples 3 to 5 was each prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 4 according to the following procedure.

Preparation Procedure for Composition (Comparative Composition of Example 3)
1) Steareth-2 and steareth-20 were dissolved in dimethicone at 70 ° C. to obtain a mineral oil phase.
2) Sodium hydroxide and glycine were dissolved in water at 70 ° C. to obtain an aqueous phase.
3) The aqueous phase was poured into the mineral oil phase and the mixture was stirred at 70 ° C.
4) Hydroxyethyl cellulose was added to the mixture.
5) The mixture was cooled to room temperature.

  Similarly, the compositions of Examples 4 and 5 were also prepared.

  Perm efficiency was evaluated as described above, except that the perm roller in step 3) was connected to another digital perm machine (ASIA Electronics, PHC model) and heated at 80 degrees for 10 minutes and 120 degrees for 15 minutes. Evaluation was made according to protocols such as Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

  These results are shown in Table 6.

[Permanent efficiency results]

  As shown in Table 6, the pH of the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 was controlled to a relatively low value (10.5) by the presence of glycine (Example 3) and taurine (Example 4). Furthermore, the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 not only showed very high perm efficiency at the same level as Example 5, but also reduced damage to keratin fibers.

Claims (21)

A composition for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair,
(a) at least one fatty substance, preferably in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure,
(b) at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant, and
(c) contains at least one alkaline agent,
(a) A composition in which the amount of fatty substance is 30% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.   2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, vegetable or animal oils, ester oils or ether oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Fatty substance (a) is mineral oil, octyldodecanol, petrolatum, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, C _20-22 alcohol, cetyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and their The composition according to claim 1 or 2, which is selected from the group consisting of a mixture.   (a) The amount of the fatty substance is 90% by mass or less, preferably 84.9% by mass or less, more preferably 65% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 3. The composition as described.   5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (b) the surfactant comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.   The nonionic surfactant is selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preferably polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, more preferably 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein is selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters.   7. The composition of claim 6, wherein (b) the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of Ores-20, Ores-10, Decess-5, and mixtures thereof.   (b) The amount of the at least one surfactant is 4% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 6% by mass to 22% by mass, more preferably 6% by mass to 12% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. 8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein   9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein (c) the alkali agent is selected from the group consisting of an inorganic alkali agent, an organic alkali agent, and a mixture thereof.   (c) alkali agent is ammonia; alkali metal hydroxide; alkaline earth metal hydroxide; alkali metal phosphate; monohydrogen phosphate; monoamine and derivatives thereof; diamine and derivatives thereof; polyamine and them Basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and their derivatives; and guanidine and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof 10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the composition is selected from the group consisting of:   The amount of the alkali agent is from 0.1% by mass to 10.0% by mass, preferably from 1% by mass to 7% by mass, more preferably from 2% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of 10 above.   The amount of the inorganic alkaline agent is 0.1% by mass to 9.9% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 7% by mass, more preferably 2% by mass to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, or organic alkali The amount of the agent is 1.1 mass% to 10 mass%, preferably 1.5 mass% to 7 mass%, more preferably 2 mass% to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition as described in any one of these.   No reducing agent, or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, or more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of the above.   (d) further comprising at least one organic acid agent having a pKa value of 0.5 to 3.5, wherein the organic acid agent is preferably selected from amino acids, aminosulfonic acids, and mixtures thereof. The composition as described in any one of these.   (a) a fatty substance, (b) at least one surfactant and (c) at least one alkaline agent are included in two or more separate compositions, preferably (a) at least one The fatty substance and (b) at least one surfactant are included in one composition, and (c) at least one alkaline agent is included in the other composition. The composition according to any one of the above.   A kit comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 and instructions for use. A method for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
Applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 to keratin fibers;
Heating the keratin fibers to a temperature between 45 ° C. and 250 ° C .;
Rinsing and drying keratin fibers.   18. The method of claim 17, further comprising rinsing the keratin fibers after applying the composition to the keratin fibers and before heating the keratin fibers.   The method of claim 17 or 18, further comprising the step of applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers, preferably by using a reshaping means selected from the group consisting of hair curl clips, rollers, clips, plates and irons. The method described.   20. The method according to any one of claims 17 to 19, wherein the method does not include disposing keratin fibers in the sealed space.   21. A method according to any one of claims 17 to 20, wherein during the step of heating the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers are heated at a temperature in the range of 60C to 150C, preferably in the range of 60C to 90C.