JP2016088917A - Composition for keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, which can be used for transforming or reforming keratin fibers, and can impart sufficient reforming efficiency for keratin fibers, such as hair, e.g., high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl regularity, elasticity and flexibility of the curled keratin fibers, preferably to provide a cosmetic composition; and also to provide a method of reforming, particularly permanent-waving or straightening the keratin fibers, preferably the hair.SOLUTION: The present invention provides a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, containing (a) at least one kind of reducing agent; (b) at least one kind of fat amino acid or a salt thereof; and (c) at least one kind of aromatic amino acid or a salt thereof. The invention also provides a method of reforming, particularly permanent-waving or straightening the keratin fibers, preferably the hair comprising applying the composition on the keratin fibers; optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; applying an oxidation composition containing at least one kind of oxidant on the keratin fibers; optionally rinsing and/or drying the keratin fibers. The composition or method according to the present invention can be used for transforming or reforming keratin fibers, preferably the hair, and can impart sufficient reforming efficiency, e.g., high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl regularity, elasticity and flexibility of the curled keratin fibers to the keratin fibers.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition for keratin fibers such as hair, particularly a cosmetic composition.

  In the long-lasting deformation of keratin fibers such as hair, first, the -SS-disulfide bond (cystine) of keratin is cleaved using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction stage), then Rinse the disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition on the keratin fibers previously placed under tension (curler etc.) (Also referred to as an oxidation step, also referred to as immobilization), which ultimately gives the keratin fibers the desired form. For this reason, this technique makes it possible to either waving or straightening keratin fibers. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-9566 or U.S. Pat. No. 4,459,284 discloses a standard method for permanent waving or straightening keratin fibers such as hair, which is consistent with the above process.

  In contrast to the simple prior art of temporarily styling using foams, styling gels or lacquers, the new shape imparted to the keratin fibers by the chemical treatment described above lasts considerably longer and is due to water or shampoo Remarkably resistant to cleaning action.

  Many compositions and methods for the chemical treatment described above have been proposed. In general, they provide good performance on the day of processing.

However, the above-mentioned chemical treatment methods, which may not be suitable from the point of view of consumer or beautician expectations, have various drawbacks as follows:
-Insufficient long-lasting against environmental stress (mechanical pressure by brushing, frequent shampoo, light exposure, high humidity, etc.);
-Insufficient reshaping efficiency;
-High levels of keratin fiber degradation, especially in repeated applications or in combination with another chemical treatment such as oxidative coloring;
-Long treatment time; as well
-Malodor of thiol compounds during and after the deformation process.

  In particular, sufficient reshaping efficiency is important. In fact, there is a need to improve the deformation method of keratin fibers to give sufficient reshaping efficiency such as high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl regularity, and the elasticity and flexibility of curled keratin fibers There is.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No.62-9566 U.S. Patent No. 4459284 European Patent Application Publication No. 0354835 European Patent Application No. 0368763 European Patent Application Publication No. 0432000 European Patent Application No. 0514282 French Patent Application Publication No. 2679448 French Patent Application Publication No. 2814948 French Patent Application Publication No. 2870119 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 U.S. Pat. No. 2781354 U.S. Pat. No. 4,875,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180 U.S. Pat. No. 5,463,633 U.S. Patent No. 5411744

CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014 CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 "Handbook of Surfactants", M.R.Porter, Blackie & Son Publishing (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178

  The object of the present invention can be used to deform or reshape the keratin fibers, and the keratin fibers have sufficient reshaping efficiency, eg high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl regularity, and curl It is intended to provide a composition for keratin fibers such as hair, preferably a cosmetic composition, which can impart the elasticity and flexibility of the keratin fibers made.

The above object of the present invention is to
(a) at least one reducing agent;
(b) at least one aliphatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof;
(c) It can be achieved by a composition for keratin fibers such as hair, particularly a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one aromatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof.

  (a) Reducing agents include thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine, lactone thiol compounds such as butyrolactone thiol, glyceryl monothioglycolate, sulfite compound or bisulphite compound, and thioglycerin, And derivatives thereof as well as their salts.

  The amount of the reducing agent (a) in the composition of the present invention may be 0.01 to 25% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 1.0 to 15% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. it can.

  (b) The aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof may be selected from a neutral amino acid or a salt thereof.

  (b) The aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof may be selected from α-amino acids or salts thereof.

  (b) The aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof is preferably glycine or a salt thereof.

  The amount of the (b) aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof in the composition of the present invention is 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It can be.

  (c) The aromatic amino acid or salt thereof may be selected from neutral amino acids or salts thereof.

  (c) The aromatic amino acid or salt thereof may be selected from α-amino acids or salts thereof.

  (c) The aromatic amino acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of phenylanaline, tyrosine, histidine and tryptophan.

  The amount of the (c) aromatic amino acid or salt thereof in the composition of the present invention is 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Range.

  The mass ratio of (b) aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof to (c) aromatic amino acid or salt thereof in the composition of the present invention is 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 8 to 8: 2. More preferably, it can be from 4: 6 to 6: 4.

  The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one surfactant.

  The composition of the present invention may further contain at least one alkaline agent different from an amino acid.

  The composition of the present invention can be used to deform or reshape keratin fibers, preferably hair, and the keratin fibers have sufficient reshaping efficiency such as high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl Regularity, and the elasticity and flexibility of curled keratin fibers.

The invention also relates to a method for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, in particular permanent waving or straightening,
Applying the aforementioned composition onto keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers;
Applying an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent onto the keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.

  The method of the present invention can be used to deform or reshape keratin fibers, preferably hair, with sufficient reshaping efficiency, such as high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl Regularity and the elasticity and flexibility of curled keratin fibers can be imparted.

  As a result of intensive studies, the inventors have found that when a combination of at least one aliphatic amino acid and at least one aromatic amino acid is used in a composition for reshaping keratin fibers, particularly hair, keratin It has been discovered that the reshaping efficiency to be provided to the fibers, such as high wave strength, excellent wave depth, curl regularity, and the elasticity and flexibility of the curled keratin fibers can be enhanced.

For this reason, the composition for keratin fibers (preferably hair) of the present invention, preferably a cosmetic composition,
(a) at least one reducing agent;
(b) at least one aliphatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof;
(c) at least one aromatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof.

  Below, each of the composition of this invention and the method of this invention is demonstrated in detail.

[Composition]
The composition for keratin fibers of the present invention,
(a) at least one reducing agent;
(b) at least one aliphatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof;
(c) at least one aromatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof.

  The composition of the present invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for remolding keratin fibers. The keratin fibers are preferably hair.

(Reducing agent)
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one reducing agent. Two or more reducing agents can be used in combination. For this reason, a single type of reducing agent or a combination of different types of reducing agents may be used.

  The reducing agent may be present in the composition of the present invention at, for example, 0.01 to 25% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 1.0 to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. it can.

  The reducing agent can be selected from thiol reducing agents and non-thiol reducing agents.

(i) Thiol reducing agent As used herein, “thiol reducing agent” means a reducing agent having at least one thiol group.

The thiol reducing agent is preferably thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, particularly esters thereof (such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate); thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, particularly esters thereof (such as glycerol monothiolactic acid); -Mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters (such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionic acid and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionic acid); cysteamine and its derivatives, especially its C _1-4 acyl derivatives (N-acetylcysteamine and N- Monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially esters; cysteine and its derivatives, especially esters (such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters); thioglycerin And their derivatives, in particular s-alkyl derivatives, and their salts.

  Mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of the primary, secondary, or tertiary amine include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

  Other suitable examples of thiol reducing agents that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include sugar N-mercaptoalkylamide [N- (mercapto-2-ethyl) gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid Thiomalic acid; pantethein; N- (mercaptoalkyl) ω-hydroxyalkylamides (such as those described in EP 0354835) and N-mono- or N, N- Dialkyl mercapto 4-butyramides (such as those described in EP 0368763); amino mercapto alkyl amides (such as those described in EP 0432000) and alkylamino mercapto alkyl amides (such as those described in Europe (2/3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and the hydroxy described in French Patent Application No. 2679448. -2-methyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate based mixture (67/33) including but not limited to.

  The reducing agent is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine, lactoneciol compound such as butyrolactone thiol, glyceryl monothioglycolate, sulfite compound or bisulphite compound, thioglycerin, derivatives thereof, As well as selected from the group consisting of salts thereof.

(ii) Non-thiol reducing agent As used herein, “non-thiol reducing agent” means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group.

  The non-thiol reducing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. More preferably, the non-thiol reducing agent is ammonium sulfite and bisulfite, and metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably Selected from sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.

  As sulfinates, mention may be made of sulfinates and benzenesulfinates, such as their sodium salts. The sulfinic acid derivatives described in French patent application 2814948 can also be used. A preferred sulfinate compound is 2-hydroxy-2-sulfinatoacetic acid disodium salt.

  Examples of phosphine include monophosphine and diphosphine described in French Patent Application Publication No. 2870119. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the phosphine has the following formula (I):

[Where
L is a linker representing a covalent bond or a divalent hydrocarbon group, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms selected from an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a nitrogen atom and a silicon atom;
m is an integer equal to 0 or 1;
q is an integer equal to 1 or 2;
p is an integer equal to 0 or 1;
R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ may be the same or different,
Hydrogen atom;
Halogen atoms;
A hydroxyl group;
A carboxyl group;
Monovalent hydrocarbon group
(Optionally containing one or more heteroatoms selected from sulfur, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and silicon atoms,
Halogen atoms,
Hydroxyl group,
An alkoxy group,
A haloalkyl group,
An amino group,
Carboxyl group,
An alkoxycarbonyl group,
An amide group,
An alkylaminocarbonyl group,
An acylamino group,
Mono or di (alkyl) amino groups,
A mono or di (hydroxyalkyl) amino group,
An N-aryl-N-alkylamino group,
An aromatic ring or an aromatic heterocyclic ring, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more groups selected from a halogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxy group and a mono- or di (alkyl) amino group,
A cyano group,
Groups that enhance the solubility of phosphine in water, such as sulfonic acid groups, sulfinic acid groups, phosphonic acid groups or carboxylic acid groups;
Substituted or unsubstituted, aromatic or non-aromatic heterocyclic group;
A substituted or unsubstituted aryl group;
A substituted or unsubstituted arylalkyl group;
An arylalkyloxy group;
Substituted or unsubstituted, aromatic or non-aromatic heterocyclic group;
Optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from silyl groups)
Represents
When q = 1, m = 0, p = 1,
When q = 2, m = 1, p = 0 or 1, in that case
when p = 0, the linker L is attached to the phosphorus atom;
When p = 1, the linker L is understood to be attached to one of the R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ groups]
And the acid addition salts thereof.

  In all of the above definitions, when a group is substituted, the substituent is selected from halo, hydroxyl, alkyl, haloalkyl, alkoxy, amino, mono or dialkylamino, mono or dihydroxyalkylamino and carboxyl. For example, a p-methoxyphenyl group is a substituted aryl group.

Preferably, the R ³¹ group, the R ³² group and the R ³³ group do not represent a hydrogen atom at the same time.

Advantageously, but optionally, at least one of the R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ groups represents an optionally substituted alkyl group as a hydrocarbon-based group.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ are a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group; a cycloalkyl group optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups; an alkoxy group; Alkoxyalkyl group; haloalkyl group; cyanoalkyl group; hydroxyalkyl group; carboxyalkyl group; halogen atom; hydroxyl group; carboxyl group; alkenyl group; mono- or dialkylamino group; N-aryl-N-alkylaminoalkyl group; alkyl group One or more selected from an alkoxy group, a mono- or dialkylamino group, a mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl group, a haloalkyl group, a hydroxyl group, a carboxyl group, a halogen atom, and an aryl group substituted with a mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl group Aryl groups optionally substituted with groups; arylalkyl groups; aryl It is selected from alkyloxy groups; pyrrolidino groups; furyl groups; morpholino groups; thienyl groups; pyridyl groups; trialkylsilyl groups; and alkyl groups substituted by pyrrolidino groups, furyl groups, morpholino groups, or thienyl groups.

For example, R ³¹ , R ³² and R ³³ are each a hydrogen atom; a methyl group; an ethyl group; a propyl group; an isopropyl group; an n-butyl group; an isobutyl group; a tert-butyl group; an octyl group; a cyclohexyl group; a cyclopentyl group; Methoxy group; ethoxy group; methoxypropyl group; chloroethyl group; cyanoethyl group; hydroxymethyl group; hydroxypropyl group; carboxyethyl group; chlorine atom; hydroxyl group; carboxyl group; trifluoromethyl group; chloromethyl group; allyl group; vinyl Group; dimethylamino group; diethylamino group; di (isopropyl) amino group; phenyl group; o-tolyl group; m-tolyl group; p-tolyl group; dimethylphenyl group; trimethylphenyl group; o-methoxyphenyl group; m- Methoxyphenyl group; p-methoxyphenyl group; dimethoxyphenyl group; trimethoxyphenyl group; o- (dimethylamino) phenyl group; m- (dimethylamino) phenol P- (dimethylamino) phenyl group; di (tert-butyl) phenyl group; tri (tert-butyl) phenyl group; trifluoromethylphenyl group; bis (trifluoromethyl) phenyl group; o-fluorophenyl group m-fluorophenyl group; p-fluorophenyl group; o-chlorophenyl group; m-chlorophenyl group; p-chlorophenyl group; o-hydroxyphenyl group; m-hydroxyphenyl group; p-hydroxyphenyl group; 4- (diethylamino) Methyl) phenyl group; 3,5-dimethyl-4-methoxyphenyl group; 2-methylbiphenyl group; benzyl group; benzyloxy group; naphthyl group; morpholino group; morpholinomethyl group; pyrrolidino group; furyl group; pyridyl group; thienyl Groups; trimethylsilyl group; 2- (4-diethylaminomethyl-phenyl) phenyl group; 5-methyl-2-isopropylcyclohexyl group; N-methyl-N-phenylaminomethyl group; and carboxy It can be selected from phenyl groups.

The phosphines that are useful in connection with the present invention may optionally be salified with a mineral strong acid, examples being HCl, HBr, H ₂ SO ₄ or HBF ₄ or salifying with an organic acid. Examples are acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the phosphine useful in connection with the present invention is selected from monophosphines. For example, when the phosphine is of formula (I), q is then preferably equal to 1.

  Examples of monophosphines that may be mentioned include tri (hydroxymethyl) phosphine; tri (hydroxypropyl) phosphine; bis (hydroxymethyl) (phenyl) phosphine; allyldiphenylphosphine; benzyldiphenylphosphine; bis (3,4,5-tri Methoxyphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl) phosphine; benzyloxy (diisopropylamino) methylphosphine; bis (diisopropylamino) chlorophosphine; bis (2-cyanoethyl) phosphine; bis (3,5 -Di-tert-butylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-di-tert-butyl-phenyl) phosphine; bis (diethylamino) methylphosphine; bis (diethylamino) chlorophosphine; bis (diethylamino) phenylphosphine; bis ( 3,5-dimethyl-4-methoxyphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-dimethyl- 4-methoxyphenyl) phosphine; bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) diethylaminophosphine; bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphine; bis (3,5-ditrifluoro Methylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphine; bis (4-fluorophenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (2-furyl) chlorophosphine; bis (2-furyl) phosphine; bis (hydroxymethyl) ) Phenylphosphine; bis (4-methoxyphenyl) phenylphosphine; bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphine; bis (3,5-di-tert-butylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-di-tert) -Butylphenyl) phosphine; bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphine; bis (4-fluorophenyl) Lorophosphine; bis (4-methoxyphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (4-methoxyphenyl) phenylphosphine; bis (4-methylphenyl) chlorophosphine; bis (4-methylphenyl) phosphine; bis (4-trifluoromethylphenyl) ) Chlorophosphine; bis (4-trifluoromethylphenyl) phosphine; bis (diethylamino) methylphosphine; bis (diethylamino) phenylphosphine; bis (hydroxymethyl) phenylphosphine; bis (o-tolyl) chlorophosphine; bis (o- Tolyl) phosphine; bis (pyrrolidino) methylphosphine; butyldichlorophosphine; butyldiphenylphosphine; tert-butyldiphenylphosphine; cyclohexyl (diethylamino) chlorophosphine; cyclohexyl (dimethyl-amino) chlorophosphine; cyclohexyldichlorophosphine; Rohexyldiphenylphosphine; 2-chloroethyldiphenylphosphine; 2- (dicyclohexylphosphino) biphenyl; 2-dicyclo-hexylphosphino-2 '-(N, N-dimethylamino) biphenyl; diethyl-aminodiethylphosphine; dimethylamino Dichlorophosphine; (4-dimethylaminophenyl) diphenylphosphine; N-[(diphenyl-phosphinyl) methyl] -N-methylaniline; o-diphenylphosphinobenzoic acid; 2-methoxy (dichlorophosphino) benzene; 4-methoxy Phenyl (diethylamino) chlorophosphine; 4-methoxyphenyl (dimethylamino) chlorophosphine; (2-methoxyphenyl) methylphenylphosphine; 2-methoxyphosphinobenzene; (5-methyl-2-isopropylcyclohexyl) diphenylphosphine; triphenyl Phosphine; diallylphenylphosphie Dibenzylphosphine; dibutylphenylphosphine; dibutylphosphine; dicyclohexylchlorophosphine; dicyclohexylphenylphosphine; dicyclohexylphosphine; diethylchlorophosphine; diethylphenylphosphine; diethylphosphine; diisobutylphosphine; diisopropylchlorophosphine; diisopropylphosphine; dimethyl (phenyl) phosphine; Dimethyl (trimethylsilyl) phosphine; Dimethylchlorophosphine; Diphenyl (o-tolyl) phosphine; Diphenyl (p-tolyl) phosphine; Diphenyl (trimethylsilyl) phosphine; Diphenylchlorophosphine; Diphenylphosphine; Diphenylpropylphosphine; Diphenylvinylphosphine; Di-tert -Butylchlorophosphine; Di-tert-butylhydroxyphosphine; Di-tert-butyl Dimethyl-tert-butylphosphine; Di-tert-butylphosphine; Divinylphenylphosphine; Ethyl-dichlorophosphine; Ethyldiphenylphosphine; Isopropyl-dichlorophosphine; Methoxydiethoxyphosphine; Methyl-dichlorophosphine; Methyldiphenylphosphine Methyl-phenylchlorophosphine; phenylphosphine; propyldichlorophosphine; tert-butylbis (trimethylsilyl) phosphine; tert-butyldichlorophosphine; tert-butyldiethylphosphine; tert-butyldiphenylphosphine; tert-butylphosphine; tri (m-tolyl) ) Phosphine; tri (o-tolyl) phosphine; tri (p-tolyl) phosphine; tricyclohexylphosphine; tricyclopentylphosphine; triethylphosphine; triisobutylphosphine; Tripropylphosphine; trimethylphosphine; tri-n-butylphosphine; tri-n-octylphosphine; tripropylphosphine; tris (1-naphthyl) phosphine; tris (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) phosphine; tris (2, 6-dimethoxyphenyl) phosphine; tris (2-carboxyethyl) phosphine; tris (2-cyanoethyl) phosphine; tris (2-furyl) phosphine; tris (2-methoxyphenyl) phosphine; tris (2-thienyl) phosphine; tris (3,5-dimethyl-4-methoxy) phosphine; tris (3-chlorophenyl) phosphine; tris (3-fluoro-phenyl) phosphine; tris (3-methoxyphenyl) phosphine; tris (3-methoxypropyl) phosphine; (4-Chlorophenyl) phosphine; Tris (4-fluorophenyl) phosphine; Tris (4-methoxyphenyl) phosphine; Tris (4- Phorino) phosphine; tris (hydroxymethyl) phosphine; tris (trimethylsilyl) phosphine; tris [3,5-bis (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] phosphine; tri-tert-butylphosphine; 2-cyanoethyldiphenylphosphine; 2-dicyclohexylphosphine There are fino-2'-methylbiphenyl; bis (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) phosphine; and 2- (di-tert-butyl-phosphino) biphenyl.

  Preferably, the monophosphine is selected from trihydroxymethylphosphine; trihydroxypropylphosphine; and bis (hydroxymethyl) phenylphosphine.

  According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the phosphine that is useful in connection with the present invention is diphosphine. When the phosphine is of formula (I), q is then preferably equal to 2.

  Preferably, p is equal to 0 and the linker L is a binaphthylene group; methylene group; ethylene group; propylene group; butylene group; pentylene group; hexylene group; phenylene group; meta-dimethylenebenzene group; N-methyl-N A covalent bond or a divalent group selected from a '-methylhydrazo group; a vinylene group; and a diethyleneoxy group.

  Examples of diphosphines that are useful in connection with the present invention include 2,2'-bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) -1,1'-binaphthyl; 2,2'-bis [bis (3,5-dimethyl Phenylphosphino)]-1,1'-binaphthyl; 1,4-bis [bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphino] butane; 1,2-bis [bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphino] ethane Bis [bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphino] methane; 1,5-bis [bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) phosphino] pentane; 1,3-bis [bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl) Phosphino] propane; 2,2'-bis [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino] -1,1'-binaphthyl; 1,4-bis [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino ] Butane; 1,2-bis [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino] ethane; bis [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino] meta 1,5-bis- [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino] pentane; 1,3-bis [bis (3,5-ditrifluoromethylphenyl) phosphino] -propane; 1,2-bis (Di-tert-butylphosphino) benzene; 1,4-bis (di-tert-butylphosphino) butane; 1,2-bis (di-tert-butylphosphino) ethane; 1,3-bis (di -tert-butylphosphinomethyl) benzene; 1,3-bis (di-tert-butylphosphino) propane; 1,2-bis (dichlorophosphino) benzene; 1,3-bis (dichlorophosphino) benzene; 1,4-bis (dichlorophosphino) benzene; 1,4-bis (dichlorophosphino) butane; 1,2-bis (dichlorophosphino) -1,2-dimethylhydrazine; 1,2-bis (dichlorophos Fino) ethane; bis (dichlorophosphino) methane; 1,3-bis (dichlorophosphino) propane; 1,2-bis (dicyclohexyl-phosphino) benzene; 2,2'-bis (dicyclohexyl) Xylphosphino) -1,1'-binaphthyl; 1,4-bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) butane; (2R, 3R) bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) butane; (2S, 3S) -bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) butane; 1 1,2-bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) ethane; bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) methane; 1,3-bis (dicyclohexylphosphino) propane; bis [2- (4-diethylaminomethylphenyl) phenylphosphino] ethyl ether; 1 1,2-bis (diethylphosphino) ethane; 1,2-bis (dimethyl-phosphino) benzene; 1,4-bis (dimethylphosphino) butane; 1,2-bis (dimethylphosphino) ethane; bis (dimethyl Phosphino) methane; 1,3-bis (dimethylphosphino) propane; 1,2-bis (diphenylphosphino) benzene; 1,3-bis (diphenylphosphino) benzene; 1,4-bis (diphenylphosphino) ) Benzene; 2,2'-bis ( Phenylphosphino) -1,1'-binaphthyl; 1,4-bis (di-phenylphosphino) butane; 1,2-bis (diphenylphosphino) ethane; cis-1,2-bis (diphenylphosphino) Ethylene; trans-1,2-bis (diphenylphosphino) ethylene; bis (2-diphenylphosphino) ethyl ether; 1,6-bis (diphenylphosphino) hexane; bis (diphenylphosphino) methane; 1,5 -Bis (diphenylphosphino) pentane; 1,3-bis (diphenylphosphino) propane; 1,2-bis (ditrifluoromethylphosphino) ethane; 1,2-bis [(2-methoxyphenyl) phenylphosphino ] Ethane; 1,2-bis- (phenylphosphino) ethane; 1,3-bis (phenylphosphino) propane; bis-2-[(phenyl) (3-pyridyl) phosphinoethyl] ether; 1,2 -Bis (phosphino) benzene; 1,2-bis (phosphino) ethane; bis (phosphino) methane; 1,2-bis (to A and tetraphenyl biphosphinic; - fluoromethyl) phosphino) ethane; bis (di -tert- butylphosphino) pentane.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the phosphine useful in connection with the present invention is soluble in a cosmetically acceptable medium. Preferably, phosphines that are useful in connection with the present invention are water soluble.

  In the context of the present invention, the term “water-soluble” means that its solubility in water is greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight, more preferably 2 at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1,013.105 Pa). By any phosphine that is greater than 5% by weight or greater than 5% by weight. Preferably, the phosphine is trihydroxymethylphosphine.

  Examples of the sugar include ribose, glucose, maltose, galactose, lactose and xylose.

  As reductons, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and erythorbic acid.

  Examples of the hydride include borohydride (such as sodium borohydride), lithium hydride, and phosphorus hydride. Hydride precursors, especially borohydride precursors (such as diborane, tetraborane, pentaborane, decaborane and dodecaborane) can be used.

  Preferred non-thiol reducing agents are selected from sulfites, bisulfites and phosphines.

  In one embodiment, it is preferred to use a non-thiol reducing agent because malodor originating from sulfur atoms can be reduced or avoided.

(Aliphatic amino acid)
The composition of the present invention also includes at least one aliphatic amino acid different from the reducing agent. Two or more aliphatic amino acids can be used in combination. For this reason, a single type of aliphatic amino acid or a combination of different types of aliphatic amino acids may be used.

  The term “amino acid” as used herein means a compound that has at least one amine function and at least one acid function and is not obtainable by polycondensation of the same or different amino acids. The acidic functional group may be a carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid, preferably a carboxylic acid.

  Mention may be made, as amino acid salts, of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium salts.

  The term “aliphatic amino acid” as used herein means an amino acid that does not contain an aromatic group.

  It is preferred that the aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof is selected from neutral amino acids or salts thereof. More preferably, the neutral amino acid has the same number of amine functional groups and acid functional groups.

  It is preferred that the aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof is selected from α-amino acids or salts thereof.

  Α-amino acids as aliphatic amino acids have the following formula:

[Where
p is 1 or 2,
When p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom and a C _1-12 aliphatic group optionally containing at least one heteroatom such as a nitrogen atom, or a saturated C _5-8 heterocyclic group. ,
When p = 1, R is -N (H) _p
(Where
C _{5 to 8} heterocyclic groups, saturated is preferably a 5-membered saturated ring which is optionally substituted with one or more C _{1 to 4} alkyl group or a hydroxyl group)
Can form a saturated heterocyclic group with the nitrogen atom of
Can be represented by

Preferably, C _{1 to 12} aliphatic groups, linear or C _{1 to 4} alkyl groups branched; linear or branched; C _{1 to 4} hydroxyalkyl group, straight chain or branched chain A C _1-4 carbamoylalkyl group; a linear or branched (C _1-4 alkyl) thio (C _1-4 ) alkyl group; a linear or branched C _1-4 carboxyalkyl group; A linear or branched ureidoalkyl group, or a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group, the alkyl part of the last two groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

  Examples of α-amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, proline, serine, threonine and valine.

  It is preferred that the fatty amino acid is glycine.

  In the composition of the present invention, the aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof is, for example, 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. Can exist.

(Aromatic amino acids)
The composition of the present invention also includes at least one aromatic amino acid different from the reducing agent. Two or more aromatic amino acids can be used in combination. For this reason, a single type of aromatic amino acid or a combination of different types of aromatic amino acids may be used.

  Again, the term “amino acid” as used herein means a compound having at least one amine functional group and at least one acid functional group and not obtainable by polycondensation of the same or different amino acids. The acidic functional group may be a carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid, preferably a carboxylic acid.

  Mention may be made, as amino acid salts, of alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, magnesium, potassium and calcium salts.

  The term “aromatic amino acid” as used herein means an amino acid containing at least one aromatic group that may or may not contain at least one heteroatom such as a nitrogen atom. Thus, the aromatic group may be an aromatic moiety having no heteroatoms, a heteroaromatic group containing at least one heteroatom such as a nitrogen atom, or a combination thereof.

  It is preferred that the aromatic amino acid or salt thereof is selected from neutral amino acids or salts thereof. More preferably, the neutral amino acid has the same number of amine functional groups and acid functional groups.

  It is preferred that the aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof is selected from α-amino acids or salts thereof.

  Α-amino acids as aromatic amino acids have the following formula:

[Where
p is 1 or 2,
When p = 2, R represents a C _{6 to 12} aryl or C _{7 to 13} aralkyl group comprises at least one aromatic group, preferably a phenyl group, an imidazolyl group or an indolyl group, or
When p = 1, R is -N (H) _p
(Where
Aromatic group or an aromatic heterocyclic group may be optionally substituted with one or more C _{1 to 4} alkyl group or a hydroxyl group)
Can form an aromatic heterocyclic group together with the nitrogen atom of
Can be represented by

Preferably, the alkylene part of the C _7-13 aralkyl group is a linear or branched C _1-4 alkylene group, preferably a methylene group; a linear or branched C having at least one hydroxyl group. _1-4 alkylene groups; linear or branched C _1-4 alkylene groups having at least one carbamyl group; linear or branched groups having at least one (C _1-4 alkyl) thio group A (C _1-4 ) alkylene group; or a linear or branched C _1-4 alkylene group having at least one carboxy group.

  Examples of α-amino acids are phenylalanine, tyrosine, histidine and tryptophan.

  The aromatic amino acids are preferably phenylanaline, tyrosine, histidine and tryptophan.

  The aromatic amino acid has at least one aromatic group having a polar group such as a hydroxyl group, preferably a phenyl group, or the aromatic amino acid has at least one heteroaromatic group such as an indolyl group; It is more preferable to have

  Therefore, it is more preferable that the aromatic amino acid is tyrosine or tryptophan.

  Even more preferably, the aromatic amino acid has at least one aromatic group having a polar group such as a hydroxyl group, preferably a phenyl group. In particular, the aromatic group may be a 4-hydroxyphenyl group.

  Therefore, it is even more preferred that the aromatic amino acid is tyrosine.

  The aromatic amino acid or a salt thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Can do.

  The mass ratio of the aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof to the aromatic amino acid or salt thereof in the composition of the present invention is 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 8 to 8: 2, more preferably 4: 6 to 6: 4.

(Surfactant)
The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants can be used. For this reason, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

  Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. The surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic surfactant, and a nonionic surfactant. Two or more surfactants can be used in combination. For this reason, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of surfactant is 0.01-20% by weight, preferably 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention. Range.

(i) Anionic surfactant The present composition can comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Anionic surfactant, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfuric acid alkylamide ether, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfonic acid alkylamides, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl sulfonates, sulfonic acid α- olefin, paraffin sulfonate; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀ ) phosphoric acid alkyl; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl ether, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl amide; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfoacetates ; (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ sarcosinates acyl; (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ acyl glutamates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl polyglycosides; ( C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfosuccinates, ( C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ acyl isethionates; N- (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ taurate acyl; C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; (C ₈ ~C ₂₀₎ acyl lactylates; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl -D- galactosideuronic salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts; and it is selected from the group consisting of the form of the corresponding acid.

  In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, e.g., an alkali metal (e.g., sodium) salt, an alkaline earth metal (e.g., magnesium) salt, an ammonium salt; an amine Salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, the anionic surfactant may also be in the acid form.

Anionic surfactant, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ salts of alkyl sulfates, are not being or chloride salified (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ More preferably, it is selected from alkyl ether carboxylic acids.

(ii) Amphoteric surfactant The present composition can contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

  Amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants are, for example (but not limited to) amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary amines or aliphatic tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized. The aliphatic group contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contains at least one anion group (eg, carboxylate ion, sulfonate) that is solubilized in water. A linear or branched chain containing ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions or phosphonate ions).

  The amphoteric surfactant can preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant, preferably, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, especially, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ The alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaine are selected from the group consisting of. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant comprises (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylbetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaine, sulfobetaine and phosphobetaine. To be elected.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamide, alone or as a mixture, in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014. Classified as propyl betaine, palmitamid propyl betaine, stearamide propyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain and coco sultain There is a compound.

  The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, which are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2781354, CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982. Years (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference) are classified under the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate, each having the structural formula:
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -) M + X - (B1)
(Where
R ₁ represents the alkyl group, heptyl group, nonyl group or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil;
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group,
M ⁺ represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal such as sodium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;
X ^- is a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, alkyl (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ sulfate, alkyl (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ - or alkyl (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ aryl - sulfonate, Particularly represents organic or inorganic anions such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ⁻ are absent);
R1'-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (B2)
[Where
R ₁ ′ is an alkyl group of an acid R1′-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, and a C ₁₇ alkyl group And its isoforms, or unsaturated C ₁₇ groups,
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C represents-(CH ₂ ) _z -Y 'when z = 1 or 2;
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ —COOH group, —CH ₂ —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′ or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ represents —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group or CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ —Z ′ group.
Wherein Z ′ represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion];
And
R _{a ''} -NH-CH (Y '')-(CH ₂ ) _n -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) _{n '} -N (Rd) (Re) (B'2)
[Where
Y '' is, -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ '', - CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 H or _{CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3} -Z ''
Wherein Z '' represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;
Rd and Re represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group;
R _{a ''} represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid;
n and n ′ each independently represents an integer of 1 to 3]
It is.

Amphoteric surfactants having the formulas B1 and B2 are (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) -alkyl anhomonoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amphodiacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amhomonopropio Preferably, it is selected from nates and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphodipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , Caprylamfodipropionic acid disodium, caprylamphodipropionic acid disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

  Among the compounds of the formula (B′2), mention may be made of diethylaminopropyl cocoa spartamide sodium (CTFA) commercially available from CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

(iii) Cationic surfactant The present composition can comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

  The cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Can do.

  Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include the following general formula (B3):

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and are straight chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen Selected from linear and branched aliphatic groups. Aliphatic groups include, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkyl amide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl amide (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate. Tar groups and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl, wherein X ⁻ is a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkylsulfate (Selected from fate and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonate)
Things;
Quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example the following formula (B4):

(Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group;
X ⁻ is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, and R ₇ is methyl. And R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include Quantelium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quantelium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold by Witco under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. (But not limited to)
Things;
Formula (B5):

[Where
R ₉ is selected from an aliphatic group containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group _{- (CH 2) 3 (R} 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a) N + X - is selected from;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
X ⁻ is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfate and methyl sulfate. Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts are FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX (Quotanium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75)]
A di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salt of
And a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group, which has the following formula (B6):

(Where
R ₂₂ is, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, and selected from C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group or dihydroxyalkyl group;
R ₂₃ is the following group:

Selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C _{1 to} C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₇ , and hydrogen;
R ₂₅ is the following group:

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R _29, saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r, t1 + t2 = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, provided that when x is 0, R ₂₃ represents R ₂₇ However, when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a linear alkyl group. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, and a dihydroxypropyl group, for example, a methyl group and an ethyl group. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ it may be a long chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms or a short chain containing 1 to 3 carbon atoms. May be. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ can be the same or different and are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C. ₂₁ selected from hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{11 to} C ₂₁ alkyl groups and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ can be selected from halide ions such as chloride ion, bromide ion and iodide ion; for example, it can be selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate and anions derived from organic acids such as acetic acid and lactic acid, as well as any other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups are in accordance with the present invention. Other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate).
However, it is not limited to these.

In another embodiment, the formula (B6):
(Where
R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ₂₃ is the following group:

Methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, selected from hydrogen;
R ₂₅ is the following group:

And hydrogen;
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups such as linear and branched. of Edakusari, selected from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated and unsaturated)
The ammonium salt of can be used.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium. Triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride, and methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived from, for example, vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products may be directly esterified, for example, optionally with oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine into fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. Or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is then followed by alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; Quaternization can be achieved using an alkylating agent selected from hydrins.

  Such compounds are, for example, the names of Dehyquart (registered trademark) by Cognis, Stepanquat (registered trademark) by Stepan, Noxamium (registered trademark) by Ceca and Rewoquat ( (Registered trademark) WE 18 ”.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include ammonium containing at least one ester functional group, as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,854,554 and 4,137,180. Contains salt.

  Among the above quaternary ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), such as tetraalkylammonium chloride, for example Dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (wherein the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride) ); Palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name `` Ceraphyl® 70 '' by Van Dyk But are lower but are not limited to these.

  According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the invention are behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenyl. Selected from amidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidepropyldimethylamine.

(iv) Nonionic surfactant The present composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are known per se (see, for example, in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants”, MRPorter, Blackie & Son Publishing (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. I want to be) For this reason, nonionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, for example from 8 It has at least one fatty chain containing 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 1 to 30. is there. Mention may also be made of maltose derivatives. Non-limiting copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; for example polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; for example 1.5 to 5 Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, etc .; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils derived from plants; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol ; glycerol (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of polyglycosides; N- (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ alkylglucamine derivatives; (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ alkylamine oxides or N- ( C ₁₀ -C ₁₄₎ acyl aminopropyl morpholine oxide Mention may also be made of amine oxides such as; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

  The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene unit or an oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants include:
Mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylphenols,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid esters, and polyalkylene glycol esters,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated ester of ₃₀ acid and mono-oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of sorbitol,
Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
Among these, a condensate of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide may be used alone or as a mixture.

  The surfactant preferably contains a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50.

  According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactant comprises a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of a fatty alcohol) and a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (of a fatty acid). Polyethylene glycol ester).

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, more specifically from 10 Containing 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Laureth-10 to Laureth-12); Behenyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 9-50 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Beheness-9 Behenes-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (in the CTFA name ceteares-10 to cetealess-30), cetyl Contains ethylene oxide adducts of alcohol, especially 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: ceteth-10 to ceteth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: steareth-10 to steareth-30), isostearyl alcohol Ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (in the CTFA name isosteares-10 to isosteares-50), and mixtures thereof.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, it monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohol has the formula:
RO- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _m -H or RO- [CH (CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ O] _m -H
(Where
R is C ₈ -C ₄₀ linear or branched chain, preferably an C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, m is from 1 to 30, preferably a number in the range from 1.5 10 )
It corresponds to.

  Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, Mention may be made of oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

  Just as the value of m represents a statistical value, the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, which means that in a commercial product, multiple polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture. Means good.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C ₈ / C ₁₀ alcohols containing 1 mol of glycerol, C ₁₀ / C ₁₂ alcohols containing 1 mol of glycerol, and C ₁₂ containing 1.5 mol of glycerol. Preference is given to using alcohol.

Mono- or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters, the following formula:
R'O- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OR ''')-O] _m -R''orR'O- [CH (CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R ''
[Where
Each of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl-CO— or alkenyl. Represents a —CO— group, provided that at least one of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 to 10.
It can correspond to.

  Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters which may be mentioned contain adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially 9 to 100 oxyethylene units Lauric acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: lauric acid PEG-9 to lauric acid PEG-50); palmitic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: palmitic acid PEG-9 to palmitic acid) PEG-50); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG behenate -50 (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant comprises a polyol and a saturated or unsaturated having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Esters with fatty acids having a chain, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, for example C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ to Glyceryl esters of C ₂₂ fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids sorbitol esters and preferably 200 to 10, the polyoxyalkylenated derivatives having more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C ₈ -C _24, preferably C ₁₂ Fatty sugars C ₂₂ 200 pieces (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkyl glycose) esters and preferably from 10, more preferably the polyoxyalkylenated derivatives having 100 oxyalkylene units from 10; fatty It can be selected from ethers of alcohols; ethers of sugars with C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

  As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (monostearic acid, distearic acid and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof can be cited, and As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acids, monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably Polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) It can be cited.

  Mixtures of these surfactants, for example products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165, and glyceryl stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN Products containing (monostearic acid and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) and the like can also be used.

Sorbitol esters and polyoxyalkylene derivatives of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, esters of well with fatty acids, alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example 20 from 100 EO, For example, sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) , And sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI, or polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or trade name Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema Select from commercially available compounds in Can do.

  As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, eg methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, eg methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate; methyl glucoside fatty ester, methyl Diester of glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl dioleate), mixed ester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearic acid), methyl glucoside and isostearic acid Esters with acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate), Esters with methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate), A mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), a mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), Mention may be made in particular of the products marketed by the company AMERCHOL under the name Glucate SS, as well as mixtures thereof.

  As ethoxylated ether of fatty acid and glucose or alkyl glucose, ethoxylated ether of fatty acid and methyl glucose, especially polyethylene glycol ether of diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid (having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide) (CTFA name: PEG -20 methyl stearate), for example, a product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid (about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and the product marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT As well as their mix Object, for example may be cited.

  As sucrose esters, mention may be made, for example, of palmito-stearate saccharose, stearate saccharose and monolaurate saccharose.

  Alkylpolyglucosides can be used as sugar ethers, for example products marketed by Kao Corporation under the name MYDOL 10, products marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTAREN 2000, and ORAMIX NS 10 Decylglucoside, such as a product marketed by Seppic under the name, Caprylyl / Caprylglucoside, such as a product marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX CG 110 or by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, PLANTAREN 1200 N And lauryl glucoside, such as a product marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 1200, coco-glucoside, such as a product marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. Cetostearyl glucoside, e.g. by the name of MOPICNOV 68 by Seppic and by the name of TEGO-CARE CG90 those marketed by the company ldschmidt and by the company Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE3302, arachidyl glucoside, for example by the market name MONTANOV 202 in the form of a mixture of arachidyl, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside Mention may be made in particular of cocoylethyl glucoside, for example those sold by the company Seppic under the name MONTANOV 82 in the form of a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (35/65), as well as mixtures thereof.

  Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils such as ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.

Nonionic surfactant in the present invention preferably contains a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acyl chain, e.g., an oleyl group or an isostearyl group of alkenyl or branched. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular:
HO (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _c H
(Where
a, b and c are integers such that a + c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60)
Of copolymers as well as mixtures thereof.

  According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting examples are those disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,463,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744.

  The silicone surfactant is preferably of the following formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ Represents at least one group of R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl group;
R ₄ is hydrogen, an alkyl group, or an acyl group;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not 0 at the same time;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5]
It is this compound.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and y is in the range of 4 to 30. It is an integer.

  Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include the following formula (II):

(Where
(A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned similarly are those of formula (III):
H- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)
(Where
A ′ and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

  Compounds of the present invention that may be used are those sold under the names DC5329, DC7439-146, DC2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning. Compounds DC5329, DC7439-146, and DC2-5695 have A of 22, B of 2, y of 12, respectively; A of 103, B of 10, y of 12, A of 27, B of 3, y Is a compound of formula (II) wherein 12 is

  Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is 15 and y is 13.

(Alkaline agent)
The composition of the present invention may further contain at least one alkaline agent different from an amino acid. Two or more alkali agents can be used in combination. For this reason, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

  The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate It is preferable.

  Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.

  The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Organic alkali agent is monoamine and derivatives thereof; diamine and derivatives thereof; polyamine and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof Derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives are preferably selected.

  Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines such as mono, di and triethanolamine and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and the following structure:

(Where
R represents an alkylene such as propylene which is optionally substituted by hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R _1, R _2, R ₃ and R ₄ are each independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group)
Diamines such as those described in 1), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferred.

  The alkaline agent is 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.2% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.3% by mass to 5% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, depending on its solubility. Can be used in

(Other ingredients)
The composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one additional component.

  The amount of the additional component is not limited, but can be 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass with respect to the total mass of the reducing composition. Additional components include volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or otherwise silicones; cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and their derivatives; proteins Hydrolysates; synthetic or natural waxes, especially fatty alcohols; swelling and penetrating agents; hair loss inhibitors; antidandruff agents; associative or otherwise natural or synthetic thickeners; suspending agents; metal ions It can be selected from the group consisting of sequestering agents; opacifiers; dyes; sunscreens; vitamins or provitamins; minerals, vegetable or synthetic oils, and fragrances; preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

  The vehicle for the composition of the present invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water, which may advantageously contain one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, such organic Solvents include in particular alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof. For example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Or monobutyl ether and glycerol. Water can be present at a concentration of 5 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the organic solvent can be present at a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition of the present invention can be present in any form such as a lotion, a thickened or non-thickened gel, foam, or cream. The composition of this invention can be contained in arbitrary containers, such as a spray bottle, a pump bottle, or an aerosol.

[Method]
The invention also relates to a method, preferably a cosmetic method, for reshaping, in particular permanent waving or straightening keratin fibers, preferably hair.

The keratin fiber reshaping method of the present invention comprises:
(i) applying the composition described above onto keratin fibers;
(ii) optionally rinsing keratin fibers;
(iii) applying an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent on the keratin fibers;
(iv) optionally by rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.

  Step (i) is for reducing disulfide bonds in keratin fibers.

  In step (i), the reducing composition described above is applied to keratin fibers. The application of the reducing composition can be performed by any means such as a brush and a comb. After application of the reducing composition, the keratin fibers are allowed to stand for as long as necessary for a specific length of time, usually 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 1 to 15 minutes. It is possible to penetrate into the fiber.

  According to the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to mechanical tension normally used for permanent deformation of keratin fibers before and / or after step (i), preferably before step (iii). Can do.

  Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to transform the keratin fibers into the intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension can be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, clips, plates and irons. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. When keratin fibers are wound around curlers, this winding can be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. For example, depending on the desired hairstyle shape and curl amount, the winding may be performed with a somewhat thick bundle.

  In step (ii), the keratin fibers may be preferably rinsed with water.

  If necessary, heat is applied to the keratin fibers, preferably after step (i) or step (ii) (if present) to deform or reshape the keratin fibers. For example, keratin fibers (which may or may not be under mechanical tension) are heated by heating means such as a heating iron (in the case of straight hair) or a heating rod (in the case of wave), usually 50 to 150 ° C, Heating is preferably performed at 70 to 100 ° C., usually for 5 minutes to 2 hours, preferably for 10 minutes to 1 hour.

  In step (iii), the keratin fibers are oxidized with the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition includes at least one oxidizing agent. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate or ferricyanide, and peroxide salts such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal persulfates, perboric acid. Selected from salts and percarbonates and peracids and their precursors. It is preferred that the oxidizing composition comprises sodium bromide, especially sodium bromide (aqueous sodium bromide) as its aqueous solution. The concentration of sodium bromide in the oxidizing composition can range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. In one embodiment, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide, especially hydrogen peroxide as an aqueous solution thereof (aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution). The concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the oxidizing composition can be in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

  The oxidizing composition may be aqueous or non-aqueous. The term “aqueous” means that the developer comprises more than 5% water, preferably more than 10% water, even more advantageously more than 20% water.

  Usually, when the oxidizing composition is aqueous, the pH of the oxidizing composition is less than 8.

  The oxidizing composition can also contain at least one additional component described in detail above in connection with the reducing composition.

  Oxidizing compositions can be in various forms, such as shampoos, gels, mousses, thickened lotions and creams.

  According to the present invention, it is preferred that step (iii) performs mild oxidation by applying an oxidizing composition on the keratin fibers with or without a short standing time. The standing time can be 3 minutes to 30 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 15 minutes.

  In step (iv), the keratin fibers are preferably rinsed with water and / or dried. The drying of the keratin fibers can be performed by a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

  The composition used in step (i) to reduce disulfide bonds in keratin fibers can be used as a permanent waving or straightening composition for keratin fibers.

  The invention is explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6)
The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. Specifically, water was poured into the container, and ammonium hydroxide was added to adjust the pH of the water in the container. The amino acid (if present) was then charged into the vessel and completely dissolved by stirring in it. The pentasodium pentetate, ammonium thioglycolate and ammonium bicarboxylate were then charged into the vessel and completely dissolved by stirring therein. Hexadimethrine chloride and cocaamidopropyl betaine (and) glyceryl laurate were then charged into the vessel and allowed to dissolve completely by stirring therein. The oleth-20 and fragrance were then charged into the container and completely dissolved by stirring in it. Finally, amodimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-12 was charged into a container and mixed homogeneously to obtain the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6. All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on “mass%” as the active ingredient.

[Evaluation]
The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were used for permanent waving of hair.

  An amount of 40 g each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was applied to the hair of the half of the heads of 4 panelists, the hair was wrapped around the rod and the hair was allowed to sit for 30 minutes. The hair was then rinsed with water. Next, the neutralizing agent shown in Table 2 was applied onto the hair and the hair was allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The rod was then removed and the hair was rinsed with water and dried.

  The following criteria are given by the panelists for the cosmetic properties imparted by the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6, such as wave strength, depth, curl regularity, wave elasticity and flexibility: Evaluated according to.

(Wave intensity)
Wave intensity: The greater the number of curls formed, the higher the wave intensity.

The evaluation criteria are as follows.
++: Wave strength is extremely high
+: High wave intensity
0: Benchmark
-: Low wave intensity
-: Wave intensity is extremely low

(depth)
Depth (Final Wave): The shorter the hair length after the permanent waving process, the higher the depth.

The evaluation criteria are as follows.
++: The confirmed wave is remarkably good
+: The confirmed wave is good
0: Benchmark
-: The confirmed wave is small
-: The confirmed wave is extremely small

(Regularity of curl)
Curl regularity: The more similar the size and shape of each curl from the root to the tip of the hair, the higher the curl regularity.

The criteria for evaluation are as follows.
++: Remarkably good curl regularity
+: Good curl regularity
0: Benchmark
-: Low regularity of curls
-: Curling regularity is extremely low

(Wave elasticity)
Wave elasticity: The longer the waved wet hair is pulled to the same length and then released, the longer the return, the higher the wave elasticity.

The evaluation criteria are as follows.
++: Wave elasticity is extremely good
+: Good wave elasticity
0: Benchmark
-: Low wave elasticity
-: Wave elasticity is extremely low

(Flexibility)
Flexibility: flexible and soft

The evaluation criteria are as follows.
++: The feel of flexibility is significantly greater, and four panelists said they are more flexible than the benchmark
+: Great feel of flexibility, 3 panelists said it was more flexible than the benchmark
0: Benchmark
-: Less flexible feel, 3 panelists said less flexible than the benchmark
-: The feeling of flexibility is remarkably small, and four panelists said it was less flexible than the benchmark

  The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 1.

  Comparative Example 1 does not contain any amino acids, so this cosmetic property imparted by the composition of this Comparative Example is taken as the benchmark for evaluation.

  The results of the evaluation for Comparative Examples 2 and 3 indicate that the presence of either an aliphatic amino acid (glycine) or an aromatic amino acid (tyrosine) is insufficient to provide an excellent cosmetic effect. .

  As a result of evaluation for Comparative Examples 4 to 6, an aliphatic amino acid (alanine, arginine or glutamic acid) was used in combination with another aliphatic amino acid (glycine) instead of an aromatic amino acid (tyrosine, tryptophan or phenylalanine). When used, it indicates that an excellent beauty effect cannot be imparted.

  The results of the evaluation for Examples 1 to 3 indicate that excellent wave strength can be imparted by using a combination of an aliphatic amino acid and an aromatic amino acid. Furthermore, Examples 1 and 2 can also impart excellence in depth when the aromatic moiety in the aromatic amino acid in the composition has a polar group such as a hydroxyl group, or is a heteroaromatic group. Is shown. Further, Example 1 also imparts superiority in curl regularity, wave elasticity and flexibility when the aromatic moiety in the aromatic amino acid in the composition is a phenyl group having a polar group such as a hydroxyl group. It shows what you can do.

Claims (15)

(a) at least one reducing agent;
(b) at least one aliphatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof;
(c) A composition for keratin fibers, comprising at least one aromatic amino acid different from the reducing agent (a) or a salt thereof.   (a) the reducing agent is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine, lactone thiol compound such as butyrolactone thiol, glyceryl monothioglycolate, sulfite compound or bisulphite compound, thioglycerin, 2. The composition of claim 1 selected from the group consisting of derivatives as well as their salts.   The amount of (a) reducing agent in the composition is 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 2. The composition according to 2.   4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) the aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof is selected from a neutral amino acid or a salt thereof.   5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein (b) the aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof is selected from α-amino acids or a salt thereof.   6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (b) the aliphatic amino acid or a salt thereof is glycine or a salt thereof.   The amount of (b) fatty amino acid or salt thereof in the composition is 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Item 7. The composition according to any one of Items 1 to 6.   (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aromatic amino acid or a salt thereof is selected from a neutral amino acid or a salt thereof.   (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the aromatic amino acid or a salt thereof is selected from an α-amino acid or a salt thereof.   10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein (c) the aromatic amino acid is selected from the group consisting of phenylalanine, tyrosine, histidine and tryptophan.   The amount of (c) aromatic amino acid or a salt thereof in the composition is 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. 11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.   The mass ratio of (b) aliphatic amino acid or salt thereof to (c) aromatic amino acid or salt thereof in the composition is 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 2: 8 to 8: 2, more preferably. 12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 which is 4: 6 to 6: 4.   13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one surfactant.   14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising at least one alkaline agent different from an amino acid. Applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 onto keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers;
Applying an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent onto the keratin fibers;
A method of reshaping, in particular permanent waving or straightening, keratin fibers, preferably hair, optionally comprising rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.