WO2015013783A1

WO2015013783A1 - Hair care composition comprising amino silicone and phospolipide polymers

Info

Publication number: WO2015013783A1
Application number: PCT/BR2013/000301
Authority: WO
Inventors: Miriam SAKAGUCHI
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-08-01
Filing date: 2013-08-01
Publication date: 2015-02-05
Also published as: BR112016001663A2

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more surfactants, one or more amino oxyalkylenated silicones and one or more particular phospholipid polymers. The invention also relates to a treatment process, especially for cleansing or conditioning the hair, using this composition.

Description

HAIR CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AMINO SILICONE AND

PHOSPOLIPIDE POLYMERS

The present invention relates to compositions, especially hair compositions, comprising a combination of at least one surfactant, at least one particular silicone and at least one particular cationic polymer, and also to a cosmetic treatment process using the said composition. These compositions are more particularly intended for washing keratin materials, especially the hair.

Many compositions for washing keratin materials have been de- scribed in the prior art.

Thus, US 6 153 569 describes transparent shampoo compositions having both good working properties and good conditioning power. These compositions comprise an amino silicone microemulsion, at least one detergent anionic surfactant, at least one foam booster, at least one pH regulator, at least one thickener and water.

Patent application EP 453 238 describes mild shampoo compositions whose foaming power is improved. These compositions comprise, in aqueous medium, from 8% to 25% by weight of a surfactant mixture consisting of anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, with the exception of betaines con- taining phosphorus, and a particular nonionic surfactant.

EP 1 849 453 is also known, which describes shampoos consisting of a microemulsion comprising surfactants, particular oils and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters. These compositions have good ocular and scalp tolerance, while at the same time affording conditioning properties.

However, these compositions have certain insufficiencies. The standard, efficient shampoos may cause stinging of the eyes when the diluted product runs into the region of the eyes, which happens quite frequently in the case of children, or may also cause discomfort reactions such as itching and stinging. "Mild" compositions have, conversely, insufficient conditioning properties, especially when it is a matter of treating hair that has been sensitized, embrittled or damaged, for example by chemical treatments such as dyeing or permanent-waving, or under the action of atmospheric agents or me- chanical treatments; which hair is known to be often difficult to disentangle and to style, and which generally lacks softness and sheen, given that its surface may be impaired and thus reflect light less homogeneously.

The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions, especially for cleansing the hair, that can afford good conditioning properties to the hair, in particular to sensitized, embrittled or damaged hair.

It has been found that, with the compositions according to the invention, the hair, even when damaged, has improved softness, suppleness and smoothness; it disentangles easily; it also appears to be more coated, which is most particularly appreciable in the case of the damaged hair, which then appears more natural, healthy and in good condition, with less apparent frizziness.

One subject of the present invention is a composition comprising:

- one or more surfactants,

- one or more amino oxyalkylenated silicones, and

- one or more phospholipid polymers as described below.

The composition according to the invention is easy to dispense and to spread onto a head of hair. It gives the hair a natural and clean feel after rinsing, and is particularly suitable for sensitized hair.

In the present description, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more" and may be replaced therewith; the term "between" is equivalent to the term "ranging from" and may be replaced therewith, which implies that the limits are included.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants that may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

ANIONIC SURFACTANT

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: CO₂H, CO₂ ^", SO₃H, SO₃ ^', OSO₃H,

-PO3^2", -H2PO2, =HPO₂, -HPO₂ ^", =PO₂ ^", =POH and =PO^". The anionic surfac- tants may be oxyalkylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "carboxylate anionic surfac- tant" means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO^"), and which may also optionally comprise one or more sulfonate functions (-SO₃H or -SO₃ ^~).

The term "sulfonate anionic surfactant" means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO₃ ^~) and not com- prising any carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO^").

The sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsul- fonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, acylisethionates, N- acyltaurates, N-methyl-N-acyltaurates, and the corresponding acid forms, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 24 or even from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

Preferably, the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants without a carboxylic group are chosen from, the salts being included:

- C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

- C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and

- C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12-C20 acylisethionates.

The carboxylate anionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo- succinates, acyl glycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, and the corresponding acid forms, the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

Use may also be made of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl polyglycoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and alkylsulfosuccinamat.es, the alkyl or acyl group of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the salts thereof may also be employed.

Use may also be made of acyllactylates, the acyl group of which comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 20 or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, and also polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, such as polyoxyalkylenated (C8- 30 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30 alkyl)(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 14-30 alkyl)amido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of all these compounds; preferably, J e compounds comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units; and also mixtures thereof. The anionic surfactants of the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt type are, in particular, those that correspond to formula (A): R1-(OC₂H₄)n-OCH₂COOA

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C8-C30 and especially C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, or a radical R2CONH-CH2- CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) that may range from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or trietha- nolamine residue.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from those of formula (A) in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched C8-C22, especially C10-C16 or even C12- C14 alkyl radical, or else a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical; and

- n ranges from 2 to 20 or even from 2 to 10, and

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom.

Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from, the salts being included:

- C6-C24 and especially C 2-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acyllactylates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, and

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups.

The salified forms are in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C30, especially C12- C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates; C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12- C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12-C20 acylisethionates; and the salts of all these compounds;

combined with one or more surfactants chosen from C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates; polyoxyalkylenated (C6- C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups; and the salts of all these compounds.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sulfate surfactant and/or at least one carboxylate surfactant; preferentially, it comprises at least one sulfate surfactant and at least one carboxylate surfactant.

AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

The amphoteric surfactants that may be used in the invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1) and (A2) below:

(A1 )R_a-CON(Z)CH₂-(CH₂)_m-N⁺(R_b)(R_c)(CH₂COO^')

in which:

R_a represents a C₁0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R_c represents a earboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or earboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra-CON(Z)CH_2-(CH₂)_m-N(B)(B')

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX', with X' representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂- COOZ', -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ\ or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH₂)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z',

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or earboxymethyl group, Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola- mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa- nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

R_a' represents a C1₀-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_aCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C-17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci₇ group.

Among these two structures, the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred. These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam- phodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloam- phodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) R_a"-NH-CH(Y")-(CH₂)n-C(0)-NH-(CH₂)n'-N(R_d)(Re)

in which:

- R_a" represents a C₁₀-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a"-C(0)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH₂-CH(OH)-S0₃H or the group -CH₂-CH(OH)-S0₃-Z", with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R_d and R_e represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyal- kyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspar- tamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB. Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8- C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, and mix- tures thereof.

NONIONIC SURFACTANTS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non ionic surfactants.

The non ionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are compounds that are well known per se (see in particular in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 116- 78). They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated a-diols, or polyeth- oxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (C₁_₂o)alkylphenols, the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 150 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, polyethoxylated plant oils preferably containing from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, N-(C_6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives or amine oxides, such as (Cio-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C_10-i₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides. The alkyl polyglucosides may be selected, for example, from decyl glucoside ((Cg/Cn alkyl) (1 ,4) polyglucoside), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 0® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; coco glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; capr \y\ glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 8 0 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

In general, a cationic surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactants of the invention are those bearing one or more positive permanent charges, i.e. one or more quaternized nitrogen atoms.

As examples of cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of :

- quaternary ammonium salts.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts, the ones preferably used are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium-89) and Finquat CT sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium-75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

Examples that may be mentioned include the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,

diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialky! sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises surfactants chosen from anionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0,1 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 and preferen- tially from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amino oxyalkylenated silicones.

Among the polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group.

The said silicones preferably consist of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂ - R -N(R")- R'-0(C₂H40)_a(C₃H₆0)_b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂ - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C₂H₄0)_a(C₃H₆0)_b -]

in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 0 to 5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroa- toms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH20CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes a -CH2CH2CH20CH(OH)CH2- radical;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C 2 divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroa- toms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH20CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes -CH(CH3)- CH2-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent from 50 mol% to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by omentive.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said amino oxyalkylenated silicone(s) in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0,1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHOSPHOLIPID POLYMER

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more phospholipid polymers as defined below.

The term "polymer" means both homopolymers formed from a sin- gle monomer, and copolymers formed from at least two different monomers. The term "cyclic radical" means hereinbelow a monocyclic or polycyclic radical, which may itself be in the form of one or more saturated and/or unsaturated, optionally substituted rings (for example cyclohexyl, cyclodecyl, benzyl or fluo- renyl), but also a radical which comprises one or more of the said rings (for ex- ample p-tert-butylcyclohexyl or 4-hydroxybenzyl).

The term "saturated and/or unsaturated radical" means hereinbelow totally saturated radicals, totally unsaturated radicals, including aromatic radicals, and also radicals comprising one or more double and/or triple bonds, the rest of the bonds being single bonds.

The phospholipid polymers that may be used in the present invention are polymers that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more monomers of formula (A), alone or optionally with one or more optional monomers of formula (Α'):

R

/

H ₂ C = C O R 6

I +

(Z)— (R₂) O— P— O R 3— N -R 7 (A)

R 8

in which:

- R1 and R'1 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- x is 0 or 1 , preferably 1 ;

- x' is 0 or 1 , preferably 1 ;

- Z and Z which may be identical or different, denote a group chosen from - COO-, -CONH-, -CONCH₂-, -OCO-, -0-, -CO-O-CO- and -COCH₂CO-;

- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C24 divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) and/or groups R2' 2" with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl;

- m is 0 or 1 , with the proviso that x and m are not simultaneously equal to zero; - R6, R7 and R8 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclic, optionally aromatic, alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 5 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P; or R6 and R7 may form, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic ring, comprising in total 4 to 7 ring members, espe- cially 4 to 6 carbon atoms and optionally 2 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N;

- R4 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally aromatic or heteroaromatic hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 5 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, P, Si and F; in the radical R4, the heteroatom(s), when they are present, may be intercalated in the chain of the said radical R4, or alternatively the said radical R4 may be substituted with one or more groups comprising them such as hydroxyl (-OH), phenyl or pyridine, or amino, i.e. NR₄'R " or N⁺R₄'R₄"R₄'", with R₄', R₄" and R "', which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl.

In the polymers according to the present invention, the monomers) (A) are mandatorily present, whereas the monomer(s) (Α') are optional. Preferably, the polymers according to the present invention are copolymers obtained by polymerization of one or more monomers (A) with one or more monomers (Α').

Preferably, the polymers according to the invention are obtained by polymerization of at least one monomer (A) in which:

- R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x=1 and Z is chosen from -COO- and -CONH- and more particularly -COO-; and

- m=1 and R2 is a radical chosen from the divalent radicals:

- linear or branched alkylene of the type C_qH_2q, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 24, optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH and

NR2'R2", with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl; and

- phenylene

optionally substituted with one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from OH, NH₂ and C1-C12 alkyl.

Examples of radicals R2 that may be mentioned include methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n- dodecylene, n-octadecylene, n-tetradecylene, n-docosanylene and benzylene groups, and also the groups CH₂-CH₂-CHOH-, -CH₂-CH-OH-, -CH₂-CH₂- CH(NH₂)-, -CH₂-CH(NH₂)-, -CH₂-CH₂-CH(NHR₂')-, -CH₂-CH(NHR₂')-, -CH₂-CH₂- CH(NR₂'R₂")-, -CH₂-CH(NR₂'R₂")-; and

- R3 is a radical chosen from the divalent radicals:

- linear or branched alkylene of the type C_q H_2q', q' being an integer ranging from 1 to 24, optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH and

NR₂'R₂", with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl; and

- phenylene

Examples of radicals R3 that may be mentioned include methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n- dodecylene, n-octadecylene, n-tetradecylene, n-docosanylene and benzylene groups, and also the groups CH₂-CH₂-CHOH-, -CH₂-CH-OH-, -CH₂-CH₂- CH(NH₂)-, -CH₂-CH(NH₂)-, -CH₂-CH₂-CH(NHR₂')-, -CH₂-CH(NHR₂')-, -CH₂-CH₂- CH(NR₂'R₂")-, -CH₂-CH(NR₂'R₂")-; and

- R6, R7 and R8, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, and es- pecially methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or isobutyl.

As examples of groups N⁺R6R7R8, mention may be made of trimethylammo- nium, triethylammonium, N,N-dimethyl-N-octylammonium and N,N-dimethyl-N- laurylammonium radicals.

Preferably also, the polymers according to the invention are ob- tained by polymerization, besides the monomer(s) (A), of at least one monomer (Α') or a salt thereof, in which:

- R'1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x'=1 and Z' is chosen from -COO- and -CONH- and more particularly -COO-; and

- R4 is a linear or branched alkyl radical of the type C_qH2_q+i , q being an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 8 to 30, more preferably from 10 to 24, particularly from 16 to 22 optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH, NF FV, +FVFV ", phenyl or pyridine optionally substituted with one or more radicals C1-C4 alkyl, OH or NR₄'R₄", and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, NR₄' and S, with R₄', R₄" and R₄"' independently representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 -C12 alkyl radical, especially methyl or ethyl.

Examples of R4 that may be mentioned include linear or branched C1 -C30, alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl, n-tetradecyl and n-docosanyl, preferably n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl, n-tetradecyl and n-docosanyl; phenyl radicals optionally substituted with one or more radicals, which may be identical or different, chosen from OH, NH₂ and C1-C12 alkyl; benzyl radicals -CH₂-C₆H₄ or - CeH₄-CH₂.

Better still, R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical of the type C_qH_2q+i , q being an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 8 to 28 and more preferentially from 10 and 24, particularly from 16 to 22.

Monomers of formula (A) that may be mentioned include the following monomers:

2-(meth)acry(oyloxyethyl-2'-(trimethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

3- (meth)acryloyloxypropyl-2'-(trimethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

4- (meth)acryloyloxybutyl-2'-(trimethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

5- (meth)acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(trimethylammonio)ethyl phosphate, 2- me th i))acryloyloxyethyl-2'-(triethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

3- (me th i))acryloyloxypropyl-2^,-(triethy)ammonio)ethyl phosphate,

4- (mel th i))acryloyloxybutyl-2'-(triethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

5- (mel th i))acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(triethylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

3- (mel th i))acryloyloxypropyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

4- (mel th i))acryloyloxybutyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

5- (mel th i))acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethy)-2'-(tributylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

3- (mel th i))acryloyloxypropyf-2'-(tributylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

4- (mel th i))acryloyloxybutyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)ethyl phosphate,

5- (mel th i))acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(tributylammonio)ethyi phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-3'-(trimethylammonio)propyl phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-3'-(triethylammonio)propyl phosphate,

2- ^mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-4'-(triethylammonio)butyl phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-3'-(tripropylammonio)propyl phosphate,

2- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-4'-(tripropylammonio)butyl phosphate,

2- (mel .h i))acryloyloxyethyl-3'-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate,

2- mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-4'-(tributylammonio)butyl phosphate,

3- (mel th i))acryloyloxyethyl-3'-(trimethylammonio)propyl phosphate,

3- (mel th i))acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(trimethylammonio)butyl phosphate,

3- (mel ih i))acryloyloxypropyl-3'-(triethylammonio)propyl phosphate,

3- 'mel th i))acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(triethylammonio)butyl phosphate,

3-i (mel h i))acryloyloxypropyl-3'-(tripropylammonio)propyl phosphate,

3-( (mel h i))acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(tripropylammonio)butyl phosphate,

3- _¾me1 h i))acryloyloxypropyl-3'-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate,

3-( _tme1 h i))acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(tributylammonio)butyl phosphate,

4-( ,me1 •h i))acryloyloxybutyl-3'-(trimethylammonio)propyl phosphate, 4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(trimethylammonio)butyl phosphate, 4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(triethylarnmonio)butyl phosphate,

4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-3'-(tripropylammonio)propyl phosphate,

4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(tripropylammonio)butyl phosphate,

4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-3^,-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate, and

4-(meth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(tributylammonio)butyl phosphate.

A monomer of formula (A) that is preferably used is 2- (meth)acryloyloxyethyl-2'-(trimethylammonio)ethyl phosphate, also known as 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine.

Optional monomers of formula (Α') that may be mentioned include, butyl methacrylate, octadecyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxy-3- methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; methacryloyloxypropyl- trimethylammonium chloride; 3-methacryloyloxy(2- hydroxy)propyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Preferentially, the phospholipid polymer according to the invention is obtained by polymerization:

of at least one monomer (A) in which:

- R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x=1 and Z is -COO-; and

- m=1 and R2 is a linear or branched alkylene radical of the type C_qH₂q, q being an integer between 1 and 24 and especially between 1 and 12, or even between 1 and 4;

- R3 is a linear or branched alkylene radical of the type C_qH₂q, q being an integer between 1 and 24 and especially between 1 and 12, or even between 1 and 4;

- R6, R7 and R8, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl; and

of at least one monomer (Α'), or a salt thereof, in which: - R'1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x'=1 and Z' is -COO-; and

- R4 is a linear or branched alkyl radical of the type C_qH2_q+i , q being an integer ranging from 1to 30, preferably from 8 to 28 and better still from 10 and 24, particularly from 16 to 22.

The phospholipid polymer may be chosen especially from:

- poly(2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)-2'-(trimethylammoniumethyl)) phosphate ho- mopolymers;

- 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/butyl methacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Polyquaternium-51);

2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/2-hydroxy-3- methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (INCI name: Polyquaternium-64);

- 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Polyquaternium-61);

methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/3-methacryloyloxy(2- hydroxy)propyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers.

Commercial products that may especially be mentioned include the following polymers: 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/butyl methacrylate copolymer (90/10) as a solution at 5%, sold under the name Lipidure PMB; 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)-phosphorylcholine/2-hydroxy-3- methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer as an aqueous solution at 5%, sold under the name Lipidure-C; 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)- phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer, sold under the name Lipidure-S; 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer as an aqueous dispersion at 1% by weight, sold under the name Lipidure-NA; methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/3-methacryloyloxy(2- hydroxy)propylthmethylammonium chloride copolymer (70/30) as an aqueous solution at 5%, sold under the name Lipidure PMQ73; 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)- pbosphoryicholine/octadecyl methacrylate copolymer (90/10) at 5% in water, sold under the name Lipidure-SW; poly(2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)-2'- (trimethylammoniumethyl)) phosphate homopolymer at 40% in water, sold un- der the name Lipidure HM.

Methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/3-methacryloyloxy(2- hydroxy)propyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers suh as Lipidure-NA are preferred.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention comprises the monomer(s) of formula (A) and the additional monomer(s) of formula (Α') in a monomers (A)/monomers (Α') weight ratio of between 1/0,1 and 1/1. The monomer of formula (A) preferably represents 20% to 100% by weight of the polymer and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer.

The polymers according to the invention may especially be prepared by radical polymerization, in particular by statistical radical polymerization, according to the usual methods of standard radical polymerization that are well known to those skilled in the art.

The phospholipid polymers according to the invention may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) preferably between 2000 and 2 000 000, or even between 4000 and 500 000 and better still between 7000 and 250 000. The weight-average molar masses (Mw) are determined by light scattering.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said phospholipid polymer(s) in an amount ranging from 0,0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0,0005%o to 0,5% by weight preferentially from 0,001% to 0,1% by weight.and more preferably from 0,0015 to 0,01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients chosen especially from propel- lants; cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants; thickeners, gelling agents; liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; relaxants; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; hydroxy acids; pigments; fillers; silicones other than amino oxyalkylenated silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); cationic or amphoteric polymers other than phospholipid polymers of the invention; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols or aldehydes. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition and the amounts thereof so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can also comprise one or more organic solvents which are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of aliphatic or aromatic Ci- C₇ monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols or C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can thus be employed alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, hexyleneglycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, may be between 3 and 8 and preferentially between 4 and 6. The composition according to the invention may be provided in any galenical form conventionally used and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in par- ticular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a microemulsion based on water and oil; in the present case, the oil at least partly consisting of the amino oxyalkylenated silicone(s) described above.

The term "microemulsion" denotes, in a known manner, not a true emulsion, but a thermodynamically stable transparent solution of micelles swollen with oil. In other words, the oil is dissolved in the water in the presence of one or more surfactants. The term "microemulsion" is especially defined in the Dictionary of Colloid and Surface Science by Paul Becher, published in 1990 by Marcel Dekker Inc., page 102.

Preferably, the number-average diameter of the oil particles, measured by laser granulometry, is less than or equal to 100 nm, preferably less than or equal to 50 nm and better still less than or equal to 20 nm.

These microemulsions are distinguished from nanoemulsions, in which the oil particles may have initial sizes of the same order of magnitude, but which are thermodynamically unstable, requiring for their preparation a substantial energy input, and which are liable to change over time.

The microemulsions according to the invention advantageously have a translucent or transparent and preferably transparent appearance. The transparency may be measured by measuring the transmittance at 700 nm via an absorption spectrometer in the visible range (for example a Lambda 14 spectrometer from Perkin-Elmer or a UV2 0 PC spectrometer from Shimadzu). The measurement is taken on the undiluted composition. The blank is made with distilled water. The compositions according to the invention have a transmittance preferably greater than or equal to 85%, preferentially greater than or equal to 90% and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 94%. Preferably, the transmittance is between 96% and 100%.

The microemulsions may contain solvents, especially to improve, if necessary, the transparency of the formulation. These solvents are preferably chosen from the group formed by:

- Ci-Ce lower alcohols, such as ethanol;

- glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols comprising from 4 to 16 and preferably from 8 to 12 ethylene oxide units.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning the hair or the scalp. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos, hair conditioners, styling or care gels, care lotions or creams, conditioners, masks, sera, lotions or shampoos for combating hair loss, antiparasitic shampoos, antidandruff lotions or shampoos, or shampoos for treating seborrhoea.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a shampoo.

The composition according to the invention may be conditioned in a tube, in a bottle optionally equipped with a pump, or alternatively in an aerosol. In the case of an aerosol, the composition may then contain one or more standard propellants.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair composition for cleansing the hair; preferentially, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo. The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed out after having been applied to the keratin materials (hair and/or scalp), preferably rinsed out. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-in time. Preferably, it is rinsed out, after an optional leave-in time.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, especially for caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the said materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-in time.

It is in particular a hair treatment process, for caring for, cosmetically treating and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, in particular sensitized, embrittled or damaged hair.

It is optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-in time.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow (% AM = percentage of active material in the composition).

EXAMPLE 1

A shampoo composition in accordance with the invention was pre- pared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

This composition was prepared in the following manner: The Polyquaternium-61 is dispersed in water, with stirring, and the sodium lauryl ether sulfate is then added and dissolved with stirring. The lauryl ether carboxylic acid, premixed with the preserving agent and the fragrance, is then added, and heated to 70°C. The silicone, the castor oil, the hexylene glycol and the betaine are then successively added to the mixture, with stirring. The mixture is made up with water (qs 100% by weight). pH is adjusted if needed.

A clear shampoo is obtained, which, after use, leaves the hair soft, supple and smooth, and more coated. It is particularly suitable for embrittled or damaged hair.

Claims

1. COMPOSITION, comprising:

- one or more surfactants,

- one or more amino oxyalkylenated silicones, and

- one or more phospholipid polymers that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more monomers of formula (A), alone or optionally with one or more optional monomers of formula (Α'):

H ₂C = C γ R 6

(Z)^~ ( R₂)— 0 - P - 0 ^-R 3— -R 7 (A )

O R 8

in which:

- x is 0 or , preferably 1 ;

- x' is 0 or 1 , preferably 1 ;

- Z and Z', which may be identical or different, denote a group chosen from - COO-, -CONH-, -CONCH₂-, -OCO-, -O-, -CO-O-CO- and -COCH₂CO-;

- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C24 divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH) and/or groups NR₂'R₂" with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl;

- m is 0 or 1 , with the proviso that x and m are not simultaneously equal to zero;

- R6, R7 and R8 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclic, optionally aromatic, alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 5 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P; or R6 and R7 may form, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic ring, comprising in totai 4 to 7 ring members, especially 4 to 6 carbon atoms and optionally 2 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N;

- R4 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, optionally aromatic or heteroaromatic hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 5 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, P, Si and F; in the radical R4, the heteroatom(s), when they are present, may be intercalated in the chain of the said radical R4, or alternatively the said radical R4 may be substituted with one or more groups comprising them such as hy- droxyl (-OH), phenyl or pyridine, or amino, i.e. NR₄'R₄" or

R₄" and R₄"', which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl.

2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1 , in which the surfactants) are chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

3. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding Claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture; preferably, the composition comprising at least one sulfate surfactant and/or at least one carboxylate surfactant; preferentially, at least one sulfate surfactant and at least one carboxylate surfactant.

4. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyc- eride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, N- methyl-N-acyltaurates, and the corresponding acid forms, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

5. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, the salts being included:

- C6-C30, especially C 2-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

- C6-C30, especially C12-C24 or even C12-C20 acylisethionates.

6. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acyl glycinates, acylsar- cosinates, acylglutamates, and the corresponding acid forms, the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; alkyl monoesters of po- lyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl polyglycoside citrates, alkyl poly- glycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and alkylsulfosucci- namates, the alkyl or acyl group of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the salts thereof may also be employed; acyllactylates, the acyl group of which comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 20 or even from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, and also polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, such as polyoxyalkylenated (C8-30 alkyl) ether carbox- ylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 4-30 alkyl)(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 14-30 alkyl)amido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of all these compounds; preferably, the compounds comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units; and also mixtures thereof.

7. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt type, corresponding to formula (A): R1-(OC₂H₄)n- OCH₂COOA

in which:

8. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, the salts being included:

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acyllactylates;

- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, and

9. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from:

- (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8- C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8- C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines;

- the products of respective structures (A1) and (A2) below:

(A1)R_a-CON(Z)CH_2-(CH₂)_m-N⁺(R_b)(Rc)(CH₂COO-)

in which:

R_a represents a Cio-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R_c represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX\ with X" representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂- COOZ', -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents

with z = 1 or 2, and Y representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H or -Chfe-CHOH-SOaZ', m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola- mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa- nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

Ra' represents a C ₀-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_aCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a On alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group. - the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) R_a.-NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)n-C(0)-NH-(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re)

in which:

- Rg" represents a C₁₀-C3o alkyf or alkenyl group of an acid R_a-C(O)OH prefera- bly present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

10. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8- C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.

11. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the said surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0,1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20 and preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more multiblock polyoxyalkylenated ammo silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group.

13. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones consisting of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂O)_xSiMe₂ - R -N(R R'-0(C₂H40)a(C₃H₆0)_b -R'-N(H)-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)_xSiMe₂ - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C₂H₄0)a(C₃H₆O)_b -]

in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroa- toms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH20CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH3)- CH2-.

14. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino oxyalkylenated silicone(s) in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0,1% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more phospholipid polymers that may be obtained by polymerization of one or more monomers of formula (A) in which:

- R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x=1 and Z is chosen from -COO- and -CONH- and more particularly -COO-; and

- m=1 and R2 is a radical chosen from the divalent radicals:

- linear or branched alkylene of the type C_qH_2q> q being an integer ranging from 1 to 24, optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH and NFk'f ', with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl; and

- phenylene

optionally substituted with one or more groups, which may be identical or differ- ent, chosen from OH, NH₂ and C1-C12 alkyl; and

- R3 is a radical chosen from the divalent radicals:

- linear or branched alkylene of the type 0_ς·Η_2ς·, q' being an integer ranging from 1 to 24, optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH and NR₂'R₂", with R₂' and R₂", which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl; and

- phenylene

optionally substituted with one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from OH, NH₂ and C1-C12 alkyl; and - R6, R7 and R8, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or isobutyl;

and optionally one or more optional monomers, or a salt thereof, of formula (Α') in which:

- R'1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

- x'=1 and Z' is chosen from -COO- and -CONH- and more particularly -COO-; and

- R4 is a linear or branched alkyl radical of the type C_qH2_q+i , q being an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 8 to 28, more preferably from 10 to 24, particularly from 16 to 22 optionally substituted with one or more radicals chosen from OH, NR 'R₄", N+R₄'R "R₄'", phenyl or pyridine optionally substituted with one or more radicals C1-C4 alkyl, OH or NR₄'R₄", and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, NR ' and S, with R₄\ R₄" and R ^m independently representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, especially methyl or ethyl.

16. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, in which the phospholipid polymer is chosen from:

2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/2-hydroxy-3- methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers (INCI name: Polyquatemium-64);

- 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Po!yquaternium-61);

methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/3-methacryloyloxy(2- hydroxy)propyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers, more preferably from 2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6 ) .

17. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the said phospholipid polymer(s) in an amount ranging from

0,0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0,5% by weight preferentially from 0,001% to 0,1% by weight, and more preferably from 0,0015 to 0,01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, which is in aqueous form, and comprising water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. COMPOSITION, according to one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a microemulsion based on water and oil, the oil at least partly consisting of amino oxyalkylenated silicone(s).

20. PROCESS ESPECIALLY FOR CARING FOR, cleansing and/or conditioning keratin materials, especially the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the said materials of a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 20, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-in time.

21. PROCESS, according to Claim 20, for hair treatment, for caring for, cosmetically treating and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, in particular sensitized, embrittled or damaged hair.