JP2015525737A - Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention comprises-(i) at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids, and / or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides. A) fatty acids, and at least one oxidant, and a) 50% by weight or more of fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides, 18 B) a fatty acid in a liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides has 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond, and c) the pH of the composition , For cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers. INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide keratin fibers having excellent cosmetic properties or perm performance, can reduce damage to keratin fibers, and can improve the feel of keratin fibers.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair.

  In long-lasting deformation of keratin fibers such as hair, first, a composition containing a suitable reducing agent is used to cleave the disulfide bond -SS- of keratin (cystine) (reduction stage), and then After rinsing the hair thus treated, secondly, reconstituting disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition onto the hair previously placed under tension (such as curlers) (oxidation stage, fixation (Also referred to as) ultimately gives the hair the desired form. This technique makes it possible to carry out either waving or straightening of the hair. In contrast to simple prior art temporary styling, the new shape imparted to the hair by the chemical treatment described above lasts for a very long time and is extremely resistant to cleaning action with water or shampoo.

  The oxidizing composition required for the fixation stage application is generally a composition based on hydrogen peroxide or bromate.

  Many compositions and methods for the chemical treatment described above have been proposed. For example, JP-A-S54-28833 discloses an oxidizing composition containing hydrogen peroxide, an oil having an iodine number of 15 or less, and other components. An oil having an iodine value of 15 or less corresponds to coconut oil.

  However, the above chemical processing methods have various drawbacks that may not be suitable from the point of view of consumer expectations. Disadvantages include insufficient cosmetic properties or perm performance on keratin fibers such as hair, as well as damage to the keratin fibers and deterioration of the feel of the keratin fibers.

JP-A-S54-28833 EP-A-337354 French Patent No. 2270846 French Patent No. 2383660 French Patent No. 2598611 French Patent No. 2470596 French Patent No. 2519863 French Patent No. 2505348 French patent 2542997 EP-A-080976 French Patent No. 2077143 French Patent No. 2393573 French Patent No. 1492597 US4131576 US3589578 US4031307 French Patent No. 2162025 French Patent No. 2280361 French Patent No. 2252840 French Patent No. 2368508 French Patent No. 1583363 U.S. Pat.No. 3,276,615 U.S. Pat. No. 2961347 French Patent No. 2080759 French Patent No. 2080759 Additional Patent No. 2190406 French Patent No. 2320330 French Patent No. 2316271 French Patent No. 2336434 French Patent No. 2413907 U.S. Pat.No. 2,273,780 U.S. Pat. No. 2,378,583 U.S. Pat.No. 2,388,614 U.S. Pat.No. 2,454,547 U.S. Pat.No. 3206462 U.S. Patent 2,226,002 U.S. Pat. No. 2,271,378 U.S. Pat. No. 3,874,870 U.S. Patent No. 4001432 U.S. Pat.No. 3,929,990 U.S. Pat.No. 3,966,904 U.S. Patent No. 4005193 U.S. Patent No. 4025617 U.S. Patent No. 4025627 U.S. Patent No. 4025653 U.S. Patent No. 4026945 US Patent No. 4027020 US4157388 US4702906 US4719282 EP-A-122324 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 U.S. Pat.No. 2,781,354 U.S. Pat.No. 4,874,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180

CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R.Porter, Blackie & Son publisher (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178

  The object of the present invention is to provide superior cosmetic properties or permanent performance to keratin fibers, to reduce damage to keratin fibers, and to improve the feel of keratin fibers treated by chemical methods such as permanent wave formation. It is to provide a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair.

The above object of the present invention is to
-(i) at least one vegetable oil formed by triglycerides derived from fatty acids, and / or (ii) at least one fat comprising at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides, and
-At least one oxidizing agent,
Including
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) the pH of the composition is less than 8;
It can be achieved with a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.

  Fatty acid esters other than vegetable oils and triglycerides are in liquid form at room temperature and normal atmospheric pressure.

  According to the present invention, the fatty acid in the triglyceride of 50% by mass or more with respect to the total mass of the fatty acid in the triglyceride is composed of an unsaturated fatty acid. In particular, the fatty acid in the triglyceride of 50% to 100% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of fatty acids in the triglyceride, contains 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon. It preferably has a double bond.

  It is preferred that 5% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least two carbon-carbon double bonds with respect to the total weight of the fatty acids in the triglycerides.

  It is preferable that 70 mass% or more of the fatty acid in the triglyceride or the liquid fatty acid ester other than the triglyceride has 20 or more carbon atoms with respect to the total mass of the fatty acid in the triglyceride.

  It is also possible for the fatty acids in the triglycerides to contain carbon-carbon triple bonds.

  Vegetable oils include olive oil, camellia oil, camelina oil, rapeseed oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, meadow foam oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, paracacy oil More preferably, it is selected from the group consisting of argan oil and almond oil. More preferably, the vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of olive oil, camellia oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, meadowfoam oil, paracacy oil and almond oil. In particular, olive oil and jojoba oil are most preferred.

  Liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides include linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, cetyl and isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, In addition, it is preferably selected from the group consisting of 2-octyldecyl palmitate.

  The amount of liquid fatty acid ester other than vegetable oil and / or triglyceride is 0.01 mass% to 10 mass%, preferably 0.05 mass% to 5 mass%, more preferably 0.01 mass% to 1 mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. % Is preferred.

  The fat preferably comprises at least one additional aliphatic compound selected from other esters, aliphatic hydrocarbons, animal oils, silicone oils, aliphatic alcohols, polymer waxes, and mixtures thereof. Also good.

  The total amount of fat is preferably 0.01% to 25% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.01% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide or bromate. More preferably, the oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.

  The amount of the oxidizing agent is preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably further comprises at least one cationic polymer and / or at least one surfactant.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably has a pH range of 1.5 to 7.9, more preferably 1.5 to 7, even more preferably 2 to 4.

  According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition has a pH range of 5 to 7.9, more preferably 6 to 7.8, even more preferably 7 to 7.7.

  The invention also relates to a method for permanent (permanent waving or straightening) keratin fibers, preferably hair, characterized in that it uses a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The present invention also includes at least
-The first compartment, and
-The second compartment,
Including
The first compartment comprises (i) at least one vegetable oil formed by triglycerides derived from fatty acids and / or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides. Including
The second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent;
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) the pH of the composition obtained by mixing the contents of the first and second compartments is less than 8;
It relates to a multi-compartment system or kit.

  As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors combined at least one specific vegetable oil and / or at least one specific fatty acid ester other than a specific triglyceride with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide, thereby combining hair and the like. It is possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, the above cosmetic composition can provide keratin fibers having excellent cosmetic properties or perm performance, and can reduce damage to keratin fibers , Discovered that it can improve the feel of keratin fibers.

Therefore, the present invention
-(i) at least one fat comprising at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids, and / or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides, And
-At least one oxidizing agent,
Including
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) the pH of the composition is less than 8;
A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.

  Below, the cosmetic composition by this invention is demonstrated in detail.

(Composition)
(a) Fat The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from a fatty acid and / or at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides. Contains seed fat,
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) Fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain one kind of fat or a combination of two or more kinds of fat. Thus, a single type of fat or a combination of different types of fat can be used.

  The term `` fatty '' is an organic that is insoluble in water (less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, even more preferentially less than 0.1%) at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Means a compound. In addition, the fat may be soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

The fat may be in liquid or solid form. Here, `` liquid '' and `` solid '' mean that fat is in the form of liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 ⁵ Pa), respectively. To do.

  The fat may contain one vegetable oil or a combination of two or more plants. Thus, a single type of vegetable oil or a combination of different types of vegetable oils can be used. The vegetable oil is preferably in liquid form.

  The vegetable oil may contain one triglyceride containing a fatty acid or a combination of two or more triglycerides. A single type of triglyceride or a combination of different types of triglycerides can be used. Also, a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different types of fatty acids can be used.

  According to the present invention, 50% by mass or more of the total mass of fatty acids in the triglyceride is composed of unsaturated fatty acids. 50% to 100% by weight, more preferably 60% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of fatty acids in the triglyceride, have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond. Is preferred.

  Examples of fatty acids having 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond include, for example, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadiene. Acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatrienoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, boseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, ozbond acid, sardine Examples include acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and nisic acid.

  Examples of fatty acids having 18 or more carbon atoms and at least two carbon-carbon double bonds include, for example, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatri Examples include enoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, boseopentanoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, ozbond acid, sardine acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and nisic acid.

  It is preferred that 5% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least two carbon-carbon double bonds with respect to the total weight of the fatty acids in the triglycerides.

  It is preferable that 70% by mass or more of the fatty acids in the triglyceride have 20 or more carbon atoms with respect to the total mass of fatty acids in the triglyceride.

  It is also possible for the fatty acids in the triglycerides to contain carbon-carbon triple bonds.

  The vegetable oil according to the present invention is preferably olive oil, camellia oil, camelina oil, rapeseed oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, meadow foam oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, It can be selected from the group consisting of paracacy oil, argan oil and almond oil. More preferably, the vegetable oil can be selected from the group consisting of olive oil, camellia oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, meadowfoam oil, paracacy oil and almond oil. More preferably, the vegetable oil is olive oil or jojoba oil.

  In addition, the fat may contain at least one additional vegetable oil, such as palm oil, crocosmia oil, baobab oil, and coconut oil. The additional vegetable oil may be in the form of a paste or a solid. Thus, the additional vegetable oil may be in the form of butter such as cocoa butter and shea butter.

  The fat may contain one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides, or a combination of two or more liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides, and the fatty acids contain 16 or more carbon atoms and / or Has at least one carbon-carbon double bond. Thus, a single type of liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides or a combination of different types of liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides can be used.

  Fatty acids having 16 or more carbon atoms may be saturated or unsaturated.

  Examples of 16 or more carbon atom saturated fatty acids include palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid, and octadocosanoic acid.

  Examples of unsaturated fatty acids having 16 or more carbon atoms include, for example, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, Linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatrienoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, boseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, ozbondic acid, iwashi acid, tetracosapenta Examples include enoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and nisic acid.

  Unsaturated fatty acids having less than 16 carbon atoms can be used in the liquid fatty esters. Examples of unsaturated fatty acids having less than 16 carbon atoms include, for example, crotonic acid and myristoleic acid.

Examples of liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides, saturated linear or branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ aliphatic saturated or unsaturated and monoacid or polyacid, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic esters of monoalcohols or polyalcohols, and unsaturated straight-chain or a branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacid or polyacid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ fatty And esters with group monoalcohols or polyalcohols.

  Among these esters, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, cetyl and isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and An example is 2-octyldecyl palmitate.

  Among the above-mentioned esters, it is preferable to use ethyl palmitate, cetyl and isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and 2-octyldecyl palmitate.

  The amount of liquid fatty acid ester other than vegetable oil and / or triglyceride is from 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably from 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, even more preferably from 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It is preferably 1% by mass.

  In addition to the above essential components, the fat may contain at least one additional aliphatic compound that may be solid or liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

It should be noted that within the scope of the present invention, aliphatic compounds do not contain any C ₂ -C ₃ oxyethylene units or glycerolated units.

  The additional aliphatic compounds, unlike liquid fatty esters other than triglycerides or triglycerides above, have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

  The additional aliphatic compound may be selected from the group consisting of other esters, aliphatic hydrocarbons, animal oils, silicone oils, aliphatic alcohols, non-chlorinated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. These additional aliphatic compounds may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the additional aliphatic compound is selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons, animal oils, silicone oils, aliphatic alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

  Examples of other esters include, for example, esters of saturated fatty acids having 14 or fewer carbon atoms, such as myristic acid esters, such as isopropyl myristate and cetyl myristate.

  Examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons include, for example, linear or branched liquid or solid hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, ozokerite, naphthalene, etc., hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane , Polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam and decene / butene copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also be made of linear or branched or optionally cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

  Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.

  Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta Examples thereof include siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like, and mixtures thereof.

  The additional aliphatic compound may be at least one fatty acid, and two or more fatty acids can also be used. Fatty acids should be in acidic form (i.e., not salified to avoid becoming soap), may be saturated or unsaturated, 6 to 30 carbon atoms, It contains in particular 9 to 30 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. They are more specifically selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. Preferably, the additional aliphatic compound is not a fatty acid.

  The additional aliphatic compound may be at least one aliphatic alcohol, and two or more aliphatic alcohols can also be used.

As used herein, the term “aliphatic alcohol” means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohol, optionally, particularly one or more hydroxyls. Substituted with groups (especially 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among C ₈ -C ₃₀ aliphatic alcohols, for example, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ aliphatic alcohols are used. Among these, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol As well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol) and myristyl alcohol can be used as the solid aliphatic compound. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as the liquid aliphatic compound.

  The additional aliphatic compound may be a polymer wax. As used herein, “wax” means that the aliphatic compound is in a substantially solid form at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and generally has a melting point of 35 ° C. or higher. As waxy aliphatic compounds, waxes commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

For example, a polymer wax, polyethylene wax, for example, wax sold under the name "Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for example, poly (C ₂₄ ~C ₂₈₎ alkyl methyl dimethylsiloxane, for example, You may choose from the products sold by Goldschmidt under the name “Abil Wax 9810”.

  The amount of the additional aliphatic compound is 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It is preferable.

  The total amount of fat is preferably 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

(b) Oxidizing agent The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains at least one oxidizing agent, and two or more oxidizing agents can also be used. Thus, a single type of oxidant or a combination of different types of oxidants can be used.

  The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and persalts such as perborate and persulphate.

  In a preferred embodiment, the oxidant may be selected from hydrogen peroxide and bromates such as alkali metal bromates.

  The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.

  The concentration of the oxidizing agent may be in the range of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

  In one embodiment, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the composition may include at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, such as alkali metal and alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates. , Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin and salts of acids and oxyquinolines such as oxyquinoline sulfate. In another embodiment, at least one stannate, optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate, is used.

  It is also possible to use salicylic acid and its salts, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and its salts, and paracetamol.

  In the cosmetic composition, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer may be in the range of 0.0001 to 5% by weight, for example 0.01 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

  In a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the concentration ratio of hydrogen peroxide to the stabilizer ranges from 0.05: 1 to 1000: 1, such as from 0.1: 1 to 500: 1, and more particularly from 1: 1 to 300: 1. It may be.

(c) Cationic polymer The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain at least one cationic polymer. Two or more cationic polymers can also be used. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers can be used.

  It should be noted that for the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

  Such polymers are known per se as improving cosmetic properties of the hair, ie patent application EP-A-337354, as well as French Patent No. 2270846, French Patent No. 2383660, French Patent No. 2598611, French Patent No. 2470596 and French Patent No. 2519863 may be selected.

  Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups, which may form part of the main polymer chain. Or may be supported by side chain substituents that are directly attached to the main polymer chain.

The cationic polymer used generally has a number average molecular weight between about 500 and about 5 * 10 ⁶ , preferably between about 10 ³ and about 3 * 10 ⁶ .

  Among the more specific cationic polymers, there are polyamine type, polyaminoamide type and polyquaternary ammonium type polymers.

  These are known products. They are described in particular in French Patent No. 2505348 and French Patent No. 2542997. Among the polymers, the following can be mentioned.

  (1) Derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, represented by the following formula (I), (II), (III) or (IV)

A homopolymer or copolymer comprising at least one of the following units:
Where
R ₃ may be the same or different and each represents a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group,
A may be the same or different and is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or 1 to Represents a hydroxyalkyl group having 4 carbon atoms,
R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ may be the same or different and contain an alkyl or benzyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms Represents an alkyl group
R ₁ and R ₂ may be the same or different and represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl,
X represents an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid, for example, a methosulphate anion, or a halide, for example, chloride or bromide.

Polymers of family (1) are acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, lower on the nitrogen (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted with acrylic or methacrylic acid or their esters, vinyl lactams, For example, vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam and one or more units derived from comonomers that can be selected from the family of vinyl esters can also be included.

Therefore, among these family (1) polymers, the following are mentioned. That is,
A copolymer of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halide, for example the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
-Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those described in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
-A copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name Reten by Hercules,
-Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the ISP company, for example "Gafquat 734" or "Gafquat 755", or Products known as “Copolymer 845, 958 and 937”. These polymers are described in detail in French Patent No. 2077143 and French Patent No. 2393573,
-Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and
-Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, in particular those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the ISP company, and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, for example by the company "Gafquat HS Products sold under the name “100”.
- crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl tri (C ₁ ~C ₄₎ alkyl ammonium salt polymers, for example, homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or quaternized with methyl chloride More specifically, a polymer obtained by copolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylamide, which is crosslinked with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, particularly methylene bisacrylamide, following homopolymerization or copolymerization. For example, a cross-linked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (mass ratio 20/80) can be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name “Salcare® SC 92” by Allied Colloids. Cross-linked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium homopolymer can also be used as containing about 50% by weight homopolymer in mineral oil or liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names “Salcare® SC 95” and “Salcare® SC 96” by Allied Colloids.

(2) Cationic polysaccharide
a) Cationic Cellulose Derivatives Cationic polymers include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, which are described in French Patent No. 1492597, in particular by Union Carbide Corporation "JR" ( JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M). These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammonium reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

  They also include, inter alia, copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, among others, as described in patent US4131576 Or hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcellulose grafted with dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

  Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more specifically products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

b) Cationic Guar Gum Cationic guar gum is more specifically described in patents US3589578 and US4031307, for example guar gum containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar gum modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (eg, chloride) is used. Such products are sold, inter alia, by Meyhall under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162.

  (3) a polymer comprising a piperazinyl unit and a divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group containing a straight or branched chain and optionally interrupted by an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atom or an aromatic or heterocyclic ring, And oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 2162025 and French Patent No. 2280361.

  (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds and polyamines in particular. These polyaminoamides are epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, bis -Halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamine, bis-alkyl halide, or bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamine, bis-halogenated alkyl, epihalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated Crosslinkable with oligomers resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds that are reactive with derivatives, and crosslinkers are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide, these polyaminoamides being alkyl Or they are one or more tertiary amine functional groups If a can quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 2252840 and French Patent No. 2368508.

  (5) A polyaminoamide derivative obtained by condensation of a polyalkylene polyamine and a polycarboxylic acid, followed by alkylation with a bifunctional agent. For example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1583363.

  Among these derivatives, more specifically, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymer may be mentioned, which is sold by Sandoz under the name “Cartaretine F, F4 or F8”.

  (6) selected from polyalkylene polyamines containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, and diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 8 carbon atoms Polymer obtained by reaction with dicarboxylic acid. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1, and the polyaminoamide obtained therefrom is converted between epichlorohydrin and between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. The reaction is carried out in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. No. 3,276,615 and US Pat. No. 2,961,347.

  This type of polymer, in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymers, in particular under the name “Hercosett 57” by Hercules Inc. or “PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by Hercules. Sold.

  (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as formula (V) or (VI) as the main constituent of the chain

A homopolymer or copolymer containing units corresponding to
Where
k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum of k + t is equal to 1, R ₉ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R ₇ and R ₈ are independently 1 to 6 An alkyl group having the following carbon atoms, an alkyl group is preferably a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C ₁ -C ₄ ) amidoalkyl group, or R ₇ and R ₈ are , Together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, may mean a heterocyclic group, for example piperidyl or morpholyl, R ₇ and R ₈ independently of one another, preferably having 1 to 4 carbon atoms Means an alkyl group, Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2080759 and in French patent 2080759, additional patent 2190406.

  Among the polymers defined above, more specifically, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (and its homologue with low mass average molecular weight) sold under the name “Merquat 100” by Calgon and “Merquat 550” And a copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name

  Equation (8)

A quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to
In formula (VII),
R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ may be the same or different and are aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or Represents a lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group, or R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, optionally contains a second heteroatom other than nitrogen Or R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ are a nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide group or a —CO—OR ₁₄ —D or —CO—NH—R ₁₄ —D group. a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group substituted, R ₁₄ is alkylene, D is a quaternary ammonium group,
A ₁ and B ₁ represent a polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, bonded or inserted into the main chain Containing one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or a sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester group You may,
X ⁻ means an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid,
A ₁ , R ₁₀ and R ₁₂ together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached can form a piperazine ring, in addition, A ₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group B ₁ may also mean a — (CH ₂ ) _n —CO—D—OC— (CH ₂ ) _n — group, where D represents: That is,
i) Glycol residue of the formula: -OZO-, wherein Z is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or
-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH _2- , and
-[CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ )-
A group corresponding to one of
Where x and y represent an integer from 1 to 4 representing the defined inherent degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing the average degree of polymerization,
ii) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives,
iii) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula: —NH—Y—NH—, wherein Y is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a divalent group —CH ₂ means -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH _2- , or
iv) A ureylene group of formula —NH—CO—NH—.

Preferably X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

  These polymers generally have a number average molecular weight between 1000 and 100,000.

  This type of polymer includes, among others, French Patent No. 2320330, French Patent No. 2270846, French Patent No. 2316271, French Patent No. 2336434 and French Patent No. 2413907, and US Pat. No. 2273780, US U.S. Pat.No. 2,387,583, U.S. Pat.No. 2,388,614, U.S. Pat.No. 2,454,547, U.S. Pat.No. 3206462, U.S. Pat.No. 2,261,002, U.S. Pat. U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,990, U.S. Pat. No. 3,966,904, U.S. Pat. No. 4005193, U.S. Pat. No. 4025617, U.S. Pat. No. 4025627, U.S. Pat. No. 4025653, U.S. Pat.

  More specifically, the following formula (VIII)

It is possible to use a polymer consisting of repeating units corresponding to
Where
R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R _{13, which} may be the same or different, mean an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are An integer in the range of approximately 2 to 20, and X ⁻ is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

  (9) Formula (IX)

A polyquaternary ammonium polymer consisting of
Where p means an integer in the range of approximately 1 to 6, D may be absent or may be a — (CH ₂ ) _r —CO— group, where r is Equal to 4 or 7,
X ⁻ is an anion.

  Such polymers may be prepared by the methods described in patents US4157388, US4702906 and US4719282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122324.

  Among these polymers, examples which may be mentioned include the products “Mirapol A 15”, “Mirapol AD1”, “Mirapol AZ1” and “Mirapol 175” sold by the company Miranol.

  (10) Quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole, for example, products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

  (11) Polyamines with a reference name of “polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine” in the CTFA dictionary, for example Polyquart H sold by Henkel.

  (12) Other cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention include polyalkyleneimines, especially polyethyleneimine, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, polyquaternary. Class ureylene.

  Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from families (7), (8) and (9), more preferably from families (7) and (8).

  In one particular embodiment, the cationic polymer is selected from dialkyl diallylammonium homopolymer or copolymer halides.

  The amount of the cationic polymer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the cationic polymer is 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 3% by weight, and more based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it may be 0.5 to 2% by mass.

(d) Surfactant The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants can also be used. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used.

  Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic surfactant, and a nonionic surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used. Preferably, according to the present invention, the “surfactant” is capable of forming a foam with water without additives.

(d-1) an anionic surfactant anionic surfactants, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylamide sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylarylsulfonic acids Salt, α-olefin sulfonate, paraffin sulfonate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl phosphate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfosuccinate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfosuccinate , (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylamide sulfosuccinates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfoacetate, (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ acyl sarcosinates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ acyl glutamates, ( C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ Al Le polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfosuccinamides acid salt, (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl isethionates, N- (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl taurates, C ₆ ~ C ₃₀ fatty acid salts, coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts, (C ₈ -C ₂₀₎ Ashirurakuchiru salt, (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl -D- galactosideuronic salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C _{6 ~C 30)} alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, and polyoxyalkylenated (C _{6 ~C 30)} alkyl ether carboxylic acid salt, and , Preferably selected from the group consisting of the corresponding acid forms.

  In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal, such as a sodium salt, an alkaline earth metal, such as a magnesium salt, an ammonium salt, an amine salt, and an amino alcohol salt. is there. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in the acid form.

Anionic surfactants may be chlorinated or non-chlorinated, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ More preferably, it is selected from salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids.

(d-2) Amphoteric surfactants Amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants include, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary amines or aliphatic tertiary amines. And optionally an quaternized amine derivative, the aliphatic group comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one water solubilizing anionic group (e.g. carboxylic acid Salt or sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

  The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant, preferably, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, especially, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₈₎ alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, and is selected from the group consisting of (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₈₎ alkyl sulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants include (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamides (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines. Selected from Betaine.

  Non-limiting examples include CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, Cocobetaine, Laurylbetaine, Cetylbetaine, Coco / Oleamidopropylbetaine, Cocamidopropylbetaine, Palmitoamidopropylbetaine, Stearamide propyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain, and compounds classified under the name coco sultain are used alone or Included as a mixture.

  Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, especially cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, which are described in U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 and U.S. Pat.No. 2,781,354, CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosure is (Incorporated herein by reference) are classified under the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate, each having the following structure: That is,
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -) M + X - (B1)
Where
R ₁ means the alkyl group, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil;
R ₂ means a beta-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ means a carboxymethyl group,
M ⁺ means an alkali metal, for example, a cationic ion derived from sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine,
X ⁻ is an organic or inorganic anionic ion, such as halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfate, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )-or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄₎ aryl - sulphonates, especially means methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate, or, M ⁺ and X ^- is absent,
R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (B2)
Where
R ₁ ′ is an alkyl group of an acid R ₁ ′ -COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, for example, a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, a C ₁₇ alkyl group, and Means its isoform, or unsaturated C ₁₇ group,
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C represents-(CH ₂ ) _z -Y ', z = 1 or 2,
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ —COOH group, —CH ₂ —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′ or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ means —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group or —CH ₂ —CH (OH) —SO ₃ —Z ′ group. And
In the formula, Z ′ represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, for example, an ion derived from sodium ion, ammonium ion or organic amine,
And
R _{a ''} -NH-CH (Y '')-(CH ₂ ) _n -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) _{n '} -N (Rd) (Re) (B'2)
Where
Y '' represents -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ '', -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -SO ₃ -Z '' Means Z '' means an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, for example, a cationic ion derived from sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Rd and Re denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group,
R _{a ''} means a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid,
n and n ′ independently denote an integer of 1 to 3.

Amphoteric surfactants having the formulas B1 and B2 are (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) -alkylampho monoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphodiacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphophores. It is preferably selected from propionates and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphonipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in the disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate It is classified under the names of disodium acid, disodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphonpropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid and cocoamphopropionic acid.

  An example is cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate.

  Among the compounds of the formula (B′2), mention may be made of sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoa spartamide (CTFA) marketed under the name CHIMEXANE HB by the company CHIMEX.

(d-3) Cationic surfactants Cationic surfactants are optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and their May be selected from the group consisting of:

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include, but are not limited to, the following. That is,
General formula (B3) below

And
Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen, Selected from linear and branched aliphatic groups. Aliphatic groups, e.g., alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, (C ₁₂ ~C ₂₂₎ alkylamido (C ₂ ~C ₆₎ alkyl, (C ₁₂ ~C ₂₂₎ alkyl acetate Salts and hydroxyalkyl groups, and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl may be selected, wherein X ⁻ is a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl. Selected from sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates,
A quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example, the following formula (B4)

And
Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group;
X ⁻ is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups having 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, and R ₇ is methyl. And R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include Quotanium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quotanium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold by Witco under the names `` Rewoquat® '' W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. But is not limited to this,
Formula (B5)

A di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salt of
Where
R ₉ is selected from aliphatic groups containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a-(CH ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) N ⁺ X _-- group;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ,
X ⁻ is selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, ethyl sulfate, and methyl sulfate.
An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P (Quotanium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75) from FINETEX,
And a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group, for example, the following formula (B6)

And
Where
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R ₂₃ is selected from: That is,
The following groups

Linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals R _27, and hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is selected from: That is,
The following groups

Linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{1 to} C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₉ , and hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
Each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r, t1 + t2 = 2t,
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ means R ₂₇ , Z is 0, R ₂₅ means R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ may be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a linear alkyl group. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups, such as methyl and ethyl groups. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ it is a long chain and may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be a short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. May be. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ can be the same or different and are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C _21. hydrocarbon group, for example, linear and branched, is selected from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated and unsaturated. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ may be selected from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide, and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, anions derived from methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups are Other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, an ammonium salt of formula (B6) may be used, wherein
R ₂₂ is selected from methyl and ethyl groups;
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
R ₂₃ is selected from: That is,
The following groups

Methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is selected from: That is,
The following groups

And hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups such as linear and branched. branched, are chosen from saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxy Ethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof are included. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound contains a plurality of acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine into fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. Or may be obtained by transesterification of their methyl esters. Following this esterification, alkyl halides such as methyl and ethyl halides, dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl and diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, and glycerol chloro It may be quaternized using an alkylating agent selected from hydrins.

  Such compounds include, for example, Dehyquart (registered trademark) by Cognis, Stepanquat (registered trademark) by Stepan, Noxamium (registered trademark) by Ceca, and Rewoquat (registered trademark) WE 18 by Rewo-Goldschmidt. Sold by name.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functionality as described in US Pat. No. 4,874,554 and US Pat. No. 4,137,180.

  Among the above mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I). For example, tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, where the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride And benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidepropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold by Van Dyk under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" .

  According to one embodiment, cationic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2 , 3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(d-4) Nonionic surfactants Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se [for example, in this regard, “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR Porter, Blackie & Son Publishing Company (Glasgow and London), pp. 116-178, 1991]. Thus, they are, for example, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, for example alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols having at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. And the esters of fatty acids, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 1 to 30. is there. Also included are maltose derivatives. Examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and aliphatic alcohols, such as polyethoxyl containing 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. Glycated aliphatic amides, e.g. polyglycerolated aliphatic amides containing 1 to 5, e.g. 1.5 to 4 etc. glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 mol to 30 mol ethylene oxide, derived from plants ethoxylated oils, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid mono- or diesters of glycerol, (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylpolyglycosides, N- (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, For example, (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ alkyl Min'okishido or N- (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

  The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerinated or polyglycerinized nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: That is,
Oxyalkylenated (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylphenols,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of polyethylene glycol,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, polyoxyalkylenated esters, saturated or unsaturated and C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and sorbitol, oxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
In particular, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, alone or as a mixture.

  The surfactant may contain between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, it oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols or ethoxylated fatty esters.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups, more specifically, Those containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name: laureth-10 to laureth-12), ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name) Behenes-9 to behenes-50), ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (the CTFA name is ceteares-10) To ceteales-30), ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups. What to do (in the CTFA name ceteth-10 to ceteth-30), ethylene oxide adduct of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (in the CTFA name steareth-10 to steareth-30), Included are ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name isosteares-10 to isosteares-50), and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups For example, PEG-9 to PEG-50 from laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 from laurate to PEG-50 laurate), PEG-9 from palmitate to PEG-50 (CTFA name: from PEG-9 palmitate) (From PEG-50 palmitate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, behen Acids PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate) are included.

  Mixtures of these fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated derivatives of fatty esters can also be used.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, it monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols, the following formula
RO- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _m -H or RO- [CH (CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ O] _m -H
Is equivalent to
In which R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, m is a number in the range 1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10. Represent.

  Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerin (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerin, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerin ( INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerin (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerin, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerin, 6 mol Olecetyl alcohol containing glycerin and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerin.

  Alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, just as the value of m represents a statistic, which means that among the commercial products, several polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may be in the form of a mixture. It means that there may be coexistence.

Among monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, use C ₈ / C ₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol, C ₁₀ / C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol, and C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol It is more particularly preferable to do this.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of surfactant is from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. It may be in the range of 10% by mass.

(e) Other components The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain an aqueous medium.

  The medium in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain water. The amount of water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 50 to 99% by weight, more preferably 60 to 95% by weight, even more preferably 70 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

The aqueous medium may further contain at least one organic solvent. The organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As the organic solvent, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycerol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether As well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, similar products, and mixtures thereof.

  The organic solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O / W emulsion, a W / O emulsion, an aqueous gel, and an aqueous solution. The O / W emulsion form is preferred.

  The pH of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is less than 8. It can preferably range from 1.5 to 7.9, more preferably from 1.5 to 7, even more preferably from 2 to 4, using at least one acidifying agent well known in the prior art, You may adjust to a desired value.

  The acidifying agent can be, for example, a mineral or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acid.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential or optional components using conventional mixing means such as a mixer and a homogenizer.

(System or kit)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared immediately before the use of the cosmetic composition.

  In this case, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be formed into a multi-compartment system or kit in which the first compartment comprises the fat according to the invention and the second compartment comprises an oxidizing agent, The mixture of compositions in the second compartment is less than 8.

  The multi-compartment system may comprise means for mixing and / or applying the above composition, for example valves and nozzles.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the multi-compartment system or kit is at least
A first compartment, and a second compartment,
Including
The first compartment comprises at least one fat comprising at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids and / or at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides,
The second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent;
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) The pH of the composition obtained by mixing the contents of the first and second compartments is less than 8.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is, for example,
Applying a reduced cosmetic composition comprising at least one reducing agent onto wet or dry keratin fibers;
For example, after approximately 5 to 40 minutes of exposure time, rinsing keratin fibers, and applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
Can be used, for example, in the perm of keratin fibers such as hair by a method comprising After an exposure time of approximately 1 to 20 minutes, the fibers are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again, and then dried.

  Application of the cosmetic composition may be realized at room temperature or using a warming device capable of producing a temperature in the range of 40 to 220 ° C, preferably in the range of 40 to 80 ° C.

  The reducing agent is generally selected from sulfurized compounds and non-sulfurized compounds.

  The sulfurized compound is generally selected from thiols, sulfites and hydrosulfites. The thiol is preferably selected from thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid or cysteine and their salts.

  Non-sulfurized compounds are generally selected from phosphines, hydrides or reductones, especially ascorbic acid or erythorbic acid and their salts.

  The reducing agent may preferably occupy 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

  The reduced cosmetic composition may contain at least one alkaline agent. The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The inorganic alkali agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.

  Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferred.

  The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Organic alkali agents include monoamines and derivatives thereof, diamines and derivatives thereof, polyamines and derivatives thereof, basic amino acids and derivatives thereof, basic amino acids and oligomers of derivatives thereof, polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof And urea and its derivatives, and guanidine and its derivatives.

  Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine and isopropanolamine, urea, guanidine and derivatives thereof, basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine, and diamines such as Construction

Which has
Wherein, W is alkylene, for example, it means a propylene which is optionally substituted by hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl _{group, R a, R b, R} c and R _d are independently hydrogen atom represents an alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propane diamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferred.

  According to one embodiment, the alkaline agent is an alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine.

  The alkaline agent may be used in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 1 to 15% by mass, more preferably 3 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the reduced cosmetic composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also be used as an oxidizing composition for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair, especially when using oxidized hair dyes such as primary intermediates and coupling agents.

  In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used for a hair perm.

  The invention will be described in greater detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

  The following composition having the formulation shown in Table 1 was prepared as a reduction lotion (active ingredient was mass%).

[Compositions 1 to 3]
Compositions 1 to 3 having the formulations shown in Table 2 were prepared as oxidative lotions, ie, the first part or part A of a two-part neutralizer (active ingredient in weight percent).

[Compositions 4 and 5]
Compositions 4 and 5 having the formulations shown in Table 3 were prepared as emulsions, ie, the second part or part B of the two-part neutralizer (active ingredient is% by weight).

[Compositions 6 to 9]
Compositions 6 to 9 having the formulations shown in Table 4 were prepared as emulsions, ie, the second part or part B of a two-part neutralizer (active ingredient is% by weight).

[Evaluation 1]
The reduced lotion above 80 g was applied to the tester's hair that had been pre-moistened and wrapped around curlers. After leaving the reduced lotion to act for about 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water.

  The hair was then oxidized as follows.

  Each of Compositions 1 and 2 were mixed with water at a mass ratio of 90:10 as shown in Table 5 to prepare oxidizers for Comparative Examples 4 and 5.

  On the other hand, the compositions of Part A and Part B were mixed at a mass ratio of 90:10 as shown in Table 5 to prepare emulsion oxidizing agents for Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Mixing was fairly easy and the oxidant according to Examples 1 to 4 was obtained fairly quickly.

  As a control, the oxidant for Comparative Example 5 was applied to half of the hair, and each of the oxidants for Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were applied to the other half of the hair. The application of oxidant for Examples 1 to 4 was easy. The oxidant was left on the hair for 5 minutes. The hair was then rinsed thoroughly and dried. As in Examples 1 to 4, it was easy to rinse hair oxidized with an oxidizing agent.

  After drying the hair, the tester evaluated the hair based on the following evaluation criteria by the tester from the viewpoint of the wave strength, elasticity, smoothness, and suppleness of the hair.

(Evaluation criteria)
Wave intensity
+: Better wave efficiency
-: Inferior wave efficiency ±: Neither elasticity
+: Better elasticity
-: Less elastic ±: Neither smoothness
+: Better smoothness
-: Inferior smoothness ±: Neither suppleness
+: Better flexibility
-: Less suppleness ±: Neither

  The above test was conducted on five testers and the evaluation results were averaged. The averaged results are shown in Table 5.

[Compositions 10 and 11]
Compositions 10 and 11 having the formulations shown in Table 6 were prepared as oxidative lotions, ie, the first part or part A of a two-part neutralizer (active ingredient in weight percent).

[Evaluation 2]
The reduced lotion above 80 g was applied to the tester's hair that had been pre-moistened and wrapped around curlers. After leaving the reduced lotion to act for about 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water.

  The hair was then oxidized as follows.

  Each of Compositions 10 and 11 was mixed with water at a weight ratio of 90:10 as shown in Table 7 to prepare oxidizers for Comparative Examples 7 and 8.

  On the other hand, the compositions of Part A and Part B were mixed at a mass ratio of 90:10 as shown in Table 7 to prepare an emulsion oxidizing agent for Example 5 and an oxidizing agent for Comparative Example 6. Mixing was fairly easy and the oxidant according to Example 5 was obtained fairly quickly.

  As a control, the oxidizing agent for Comparative Example 8 was applied to half the hair, and each of the oxidizing agents for Example 5 and Comparative Examples 6 and 7 was applied to the other half of the hair. The application of oxidant for Example 5 was easy. The oxidant was left on the hair for 5 minutes. The hair was then rinsed thoroughly and dried. As Example 5, rinsing hair oxidized with an oxidizing agent was easy.

  After drying the hair, the tester evaluated the hair based on the same evaluation criteria as shown in [Evaluation 1] by the tester from the viewpoint of the wave strength, elasticity, smoothness, and suppleness of the hair.

  The above test was conducted on five testers and the evaluation results were averaged. The averaged results are shown in Table 7.

Claims (16)

-(i) at least one fat comprising at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids, and / or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides, And
-At least one oxidizing agent,
Including
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) the pH of the composition is less than 8;
Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.   50% to 100% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight of the fatty acids in the triglycerides, based on the total weight of the fatty acids in the triglycerides, with 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which has a bond.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fat contains at least one vegetable oil.   Vegetable oil is olive oil, camellia oil, camelina oil, rapeseed oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, meadow foam oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, paracacy oil, argan oil and 4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, selected from the group consisting of almond oil.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of olive oil, camellia oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, meadow foam oil, paracacy oil and almond oil. object.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the vegetable oil is olive oil or jojoba oil.   Liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides are linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl palmitate, cetyl and isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, And a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 selected from the group consisting of 2-octyldecyl palmitate.   The amount of liquid fatty acid ester other than vegetable oil and / or triglyceride is 0.01 mass% to 10 mass%, preferably 0.05 mass% to 5 mass%, more preferably 0.1 mass% to 1 mass, relative to the total mass of the composition The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the cosmetic composition is%.   The fat preferably comprises at least one additional aliphatic compound, preferably selected from other esters, aliphatic hydrocarbons, animal oils, silicone oils, aliphatic alcohols, polymer waxes, and mixtures thereof. Item 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Items 1 to 8.   The total amount of fat is from 0.01% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of 9 above.   11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide or a bromate, preferably hydrogen peroxide.   The amount of the oxidizing agent is from 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably from 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. 12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of 11 above.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one cationic polymer and / or at least one surfactant.   14. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, having a pH range of 1.5 to 7.9, preferably 1.5 to 7, more preferably 2 to 4.   A method for perming keratin fibers, preferably hair, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is used. at least,
-The first compartment, and
-The second compartment,
Including
The first compartment comprises (i) at least one vegetable oil formed by at least one triglyceride derived from fatty acids and / or (ii) at least one liquid fatty acid ester other than triglycerides. Including fat,
The second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent;
a) 50% by weight or more of the fatty acids in the triglycerides with respect to the total weight of fatty acids in the triglycerides have 18 or more carbon atoms and at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
b) fatty acids in liquid fatty acid esters other than triglycerides have 16 or more carbon atoms and / or at least one carbon-carbon double bond;
c) the pH of the composition obtained by mixing the contents of the first and second compartments is less than 8;
Multi-compartment system or kit.