JP2016108263A - Comfortable oxidation composition for keratin fiber using fatty substance and nonionic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an oxidation composition for a keratin fiber such as a hair in which stability and handling property is improved.SOLUTION: An oxidation composition for a keratin fiber comprises: (a) at least two kinds of nonionic surfactants including (a-1) a first nonionic surfactant represented by a formula (i): R-(O-Alk)-OR' (i) and (a-2) a second surfactant other than (a-1) the first nonionic surfactant in which preferably total amount of (a) the nonionic surfactant is 0.1-20 mass% of total amount of the composition; (b) at least one kind of fatty substance; and (c) at least one kind of oxidant which is preferably 0.5-30 mass% of the total amount of the composition.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a comfortable oxidizing composition for keratin fibers such as hair, using a fatty substance and a nonionic surfactant.

  In cosmetic products, oxidative compositions are used in the areas of keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, which are dyed, decolored or deformed for a long time.

  In hair oxidative dyeing, the oxidative composition is mixed with oxidative dyes such as bases and couplers to provide a colored and coloring composition by the process of oxidative concentration. Oxidizing compositions can also be used in the direct dyeing of hair mixed with colored and specific direct dyes for coloring to obtain a coloring with the effect of lightening the hair. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers, mention may be made of compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis such as hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide. Persalts such as perborate and persulphate can also be used.

  In long-lasting deformation of hair, first, a composition containing a suitable reducing agent is used to cleave the disulfide bond -SS- of keratin (cystine) (reduction stage), and then After rinsing the treated hair, secondly, reconstituting disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition onto the hair previously under tension (such as curlers) (oxidation stage, also called immobilization), As a result, the desired form is finally given to the hair. This technique therefore makes it possible to either wave or straighten the hair. The oxidizing composition required for application of the immobilization stage generally contains hydrogen peroxide as the oxidant.

  The introduction of large amounts of oily compounds into the oxidizing composition for dyeing and / or decolorizing and / or permanent deformation of keratin fibers is called the Oil Delivery System (ODS) Make it possible to improve the performance.

  To date, several prior art documents on cosmetic oxidative compositions for keratin fibers have been published.

  JP-B-4834259 discloses a decolorizing composition used in admixture with an alkaline agent and containing an oxidizing agent, an oily component and water, wherein the decoloring composition is from 5.0 to 20.0% by mass The oil component is composed of an oil component (a) that is liquid at room temperature and a solid oil component (b) that is solid at room temperature; the amount of the oil component is 10.0 to 65.0% by mass The mass ratio [(a) / (b)] of component (a) to component (b) is 6 to 60.

  JP-B-4870883 discloses a cosmetic for hair comprising a first agent containing at least one alkanolamine and a second agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, oil component and surfactant. Wherein the oily component comprises at least liquid paraffin, the surfactant comprises at least one polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, a first agent and a second agent; The mixture of 1.0 to 5.0% by weight of alkanolamine, 17.5 to 27.0% by weight of oily component, and 1.75 to 10.0% by weight of surfactant, the weight ratio of oily component to surfactant is 10.0 or less It is.

  WO2012 / 032671 describes: (a) at least one liquid fatty component; (b) at least one solid fatty component; and (c) at least one HLB value of 12 to 17. Disclosed is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, comprising an ionic surfactant, (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (e) at least one oxidizing agent. The total amount of (a) liquid fatty component and (b) solid fatty component is 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (a) the amount of liquid fatty component / ( b) The mass ratio A of the amount of the solid fatty component is 3 or less, (b) the amount of the solid fatty component is 10 to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, (c ) The amount of nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

WO2010 / 070244 describes a mixture of at least 25% by weight of a fatty substance (a mixture of fatty substances) containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) is, C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes; animal, non-silicone oils of mineral or synthetic origin; room temperature solid fatty alcohols other than fatty alcohols, fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicone, or their Comprising at least one additional fatty substance selected from a mixture), (b) one or more oxidizing agents, and (c) optionally one or more basifying agents. Disclosed are compositions for dyeing or lightening keratin fibers.

  However, the introduction of large amounts of oily compounds into the oxidizing composition results in destabilization of the composition phase. Such an oxidized composition having an unstable phase is inferior in properties as an oxidized composition. Furthermore, in general, emulsions in which such phases, including an aqueous phase and an oil phase, are unstable are less viscous due to the lack of a network structure between the phases. Compositions with reduced viscosity are difficult to handle, eg mix and apply. Accordingly, there remains a need for stable, oxidizing compositions for keratin fibers that contain oily compounds.

JP-B-4834259 JP-B-4870883 WO2012 / 032671 WO2010 / 070244 U.S. Pat. No. 5,463,633 U.S. Patent No. 5411744

"Handbook of Surfactants", M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178 "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984)

  It is an object of the present invention to provide an oxidizing composition for keratin fibers such as hair that has improved stability and handling properties.

The above object of the present invention is to
(a) (a-1) Formula (i)
R- (O-Alk) _n -OR '(i)
[In the formula (i),
- R represents a linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
- R 'represents a linear or branched, represent C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group,
-n is an integer between 1 and 100 including fractions;
-Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene]
The first nonionic surfactant and
(a-1) a second nonionic surfactant other than the first nonionic surfactant (a-2),
Preferably, (a) at least two nonionic surfactants in which the total amount of nonionic surfactant is in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition;
(b) at least one fatty substance;
(c) can be achieved by an oxidizing composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  Preferably, the fatty substance is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition.

Preferably, the fatty substance is
(b-1) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature;
(b-2) at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature.

  (b-1) The liquid fatty substance is preferably present in an amount of 1.5 to 78% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  (b-2) The solid fatty substance is preferably present in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of fatty substances is 16 to 40% by weight.

  In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of (b-1) liquid fatty substance / (b-2) solid fatty substance is from 3.0 to 5.2.

(a-1) the first non-ionic surfactant has the formula (i) wherein R represents a linear, saturated, C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl group, and R ′ represents OH Represents a linear, saturated, C ₁₄ alkyl group substituted with a group, Alk represents an ethylene group, and n has an average value of 60.

  (a-2) The second nonionic surfactant is a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.

  In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying an oxidizing composition to keratin fibers.

  In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a method for decolorizing keratin fibers, comprising applying an oxidizing composition to keratin fibers.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of deforming, in particular permanent waving or straightening keratin fibers, preferably hair,
Applying a composition comprising at least one reducing agent onto keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers;
Applying the oxidizing composition onto the keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.

  The inventors have conducted extensive studies and have surprisingly discovered that the oxidizing composition for keratin fibers according to the present invention has improved stability and handling properties.

Therefore, the oxidizing composition according to the present invention is for keratin fibers such as hair,
(a) (a-1) Formula (i)
R- (O-Alk) _n -OR '(i)
[In the formula (i),
- R represents a linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
- R 'represents a linear or branched, represent C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group,
-n is an integer between 1 and 100 including fractions;
-Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, ethylene or propylene, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group such as ethylene]
The first nonionic surfactant and
(a-1) a second nonionic surfactant other than the first nonionic surfactant (a-2),
Preferably, (a) at least two nonionic surfactants in which the total amount of nonionic surfactant is in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition;
(b) at least one fatty substance;
(c) at least one oxidizing agent, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 30% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

  The composition for keratin fibers of the present invention has a suitable viscosity and is stable. Specifically, the composition showed good phase stability in the form of an emulsion. Thus, the composition is easy to handle and does not spill particularly and remains localized at the point of application.

  Furthermore, due to the improved stability of the composition, it is mainly caused by alkaline components such as ammonia and monoethanolamine mixed when used for hair dyeing or hair bleaching. Can reduce itching and discomfort in the skin. The reason is presumed that the oxidizing composition according to the present invention has a well-established emulsion structure, so that it surrounds irritants such as alkaline agents in the composition. It is therefore speculated that the oxidizing composition prevents the irritants in the composition from contacting the skin. Therefore, the present invention can provide a comfortable cosmetic oxidation composition.

  Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail.

(a) Nonionic surfactant The oxidizing composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) (a-1) Formula (i)
R- (O-Alk) _n -OR '(i)
[In the formula (i),
- R represents a linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
- R 'represents a linear or branched, represent C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group,
-n is an integer between 1 and 100 including fractions;
-Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, ethylene or propylene, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group such as ethylene]
The first nonionic surfactant and
(a-1) containing a second nonionic surfactant other than the first nonionic surfactant (a-2),
Contains at least two nonionic surfactants.

  According to one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of (a-1) the first nonionic surfactant and (a-2) the second nonionic surfactant is the amount of the composition according to the present invention. It can be in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight.

(a-1) First nonionic surfactant The first nonionic surfactant has the formula (i)
R- (O-Alk) _n -OR '(i)
[In the formula (i),
- R represents a linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
R ′ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based group, preferably substituted with a hydroxyl group in the β position relative to the ether function May have been
-n is an integer between 1 and 100 including fractions;
-Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, ethylene or propylene, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group such as ethylene]
Represented by
It also includes its optical isomers and geometric isomers.

In particular, the nonionic ether of formula (i) is such that R and R ′ are, independently of one another, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, Represents a C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , preferably C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon group; R ′ may be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and n is an integer greater than or equal to 20, for example Represents an integer in the range 20 to 100, preferably 40 to 80.

  Preferably, R and R ′ each represents an alkyl group. More preferably, R and R ′ each represents a saturated alkyl group.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the nonionic ether of formula (i) is such that R represents a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, which is preferably linear and R ′ is a C ₁₄ alkyl group. Which is preferably linear, substituted with an OH group, n has an average value of 60 and Alk represents an ethylene group.

  In particular, the first nonionic surfactant is ceteares-60 myristyl glycol, which has the formula

(Where
(R represents a blend of a cetyl group and a stearyl group, and n has an average value of 60)
Is generally a polyethylene glycol derivative. Cetealess-60 myristyl glycol is sold, for example, by Akzo under the trademark Elfacos GT 282 S.

  According to one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the first nonionic surfactant is from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition according to the present invention. Preferably, it can be in the range of 0.01 to 5% by mass.

(a-2) Second Nonionic Surfactant The second nonionic surfactant is (a-1) a nonionic surfactant other than the first nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination as the second nonionic surfactant.

The nonionic surfactant used as the second nonionic surfactant is a compound known per se as a nonionic surfactant [for example, see “Handbook of Surfactants”, MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, 116-178]. Therefore, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from, for example, alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids in addition to the (a-1) first nonionic surfactant. Ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, for example having at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and having a number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, glycerol groups Can be in the range of 1 to 30. Mention may also be made of maltose derivatives. Non-limiting copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; for example polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; for example 1.5 to 5 Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, etc .; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils derived from plants; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol ; glycerol (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of polyglycosides; N- (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ alkylglucamine derivatives; (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ alkylamine oxides or N- ( C ₁₀ -C ₁₄₎ acyl aminopropyl morpholine oxide Mention may also be made of amine oxides such as; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

  The second nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene unit or an oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants include:
Mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylphenols,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid esters, and polyalkylene glycol esters,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated ester of ₃₀ acid and mono-oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of sorbitol,
Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
Among these, a condensate of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide may be used alone or as a mixture.

  The second surfactant preferably contains a mole number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50.

  According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactant comprises a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of a fatty alcohol) and a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (of a fatty acid). Polyethylene glycol ester).

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, more specifically from 10 Containing 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Laureth-10 to Laureth-12); Behenyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 9-50 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Beheness-9 Behenez-50, e.g. behenez-10); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name is ceteares-10 to ceteares) -30), ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially 10 to 30 oxyethyl Containing ren units (in the CTFA name, ceteth-10 to ceteth-30); stearyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (in the CTFA name, steareth-10 to steareth-30 For example, steareth-20), ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (in the CTFA name isosteares-10 to isosteares-50), and mixtures thereof.

  An example of a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol containing 2 to 50 moles of propylene oxide is PPG-15 stearyl ether.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, it monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohol has the formula:
RO- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _m -H or RO- [CH (CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ O] _m -H
(Where
R is C ₈ -C ₄₀ linear or branched chain, preferably an C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, m is from 1 to 30, preferably a number in the range from 1.5 10 )
It corresponds to.

  Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, Mention may be made of oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

  Just as the value of m represents a statistical value, the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, which means that in a commercial product, multiple polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture. Means good.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C ₈ / C ₁₀ alcohols containing 1 mol of glycerol, C ₁₀ / C ₁₂ alcohols containing 1 mol of glycerol, and C ₁₂ containing 1.5 mol of glycerol. Preference is given to using alcohol.

Mono- or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters, the following formula:
R'O- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OR ''')-O] _m -R''orR'O- [CH (CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R ''
[Where
Each of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl-CO— or alkenyl. Represents a —CO— group, provided that at least one of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 to 10.
It can correspond to.

  Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters which may be mentioned contain adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially 9 to 100 oxyethylene units Lauric acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: lauric acid PEG-9 to lauric acid PEG-50); palmitic acid PEG-9 to PEG-50 (CTFA name: palmitic acid PEG-9 to palmitic acid) PEG-50); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG behenate -50 (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments according to the invention, the second nonionic surfactant comprises a polyol and saturated or having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Esters with fatty acids having an unsaturated chain, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, for example C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferably Glyceryl esters of C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof preferably having 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferably C _{12 to} C Sorbitol esters of ₂₂ fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C _{8 to} C ₂₄ , preferred Or sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkylglycose) esters of fatty acids of C _{12 to} C ₂₂ and their polyoxy having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units. It can be selected from: alkyleneated derivatives; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugars with C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

  As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (monostearic acid, distearic acid and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof can be cited, and As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acids, monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably Polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) It can be cited.

  Mixtures of these surfactants, for example products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165, and glyceryl stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN Products containing (monostearic acid and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) and the like can also be used.

Sorbitol esters and polyoxyalkylene derivatives of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, esters of well with fatty acids, alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example 20 from 100 EO, For example, sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) , And sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI, or polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or trade name Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema Select from commercially available compounds in Can do.

  As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, eg methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, eg methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate; methyl glucoside fatty ester, methyl Diester of glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl dioleate), mixed ester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearic acid), methyl glucoside and isostearic acid Esters with acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate), Esters with methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate), A mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), a mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), Mention may be made in particular of the products marketed by the company AMERCHOL under the name Glucate SS, as well as mixtures thereof.

  As ethoxylated ether of fatty acid and glucose or alkyl glucose, ethoxylated ether of fatty acid and methyl glucose, especially polyethylene glycol ether of diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid (having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide) (CTFA name: PEG -20 methyl stearate), for example, a product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid (about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and the product marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT As well as their mix Object, for example may be cited.

  As sucrose esters, mention may be made, for example, of palmito-stearate saccharose, stearate saccharose and monolaurate saccharose.

  Alkylpolyglucosides can be used as sugar ethers, for example products marketed by Kao Corporation under the name MYDOL 10, products marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTAREN 2000, and ORAMIX NS 10 Decylglucoside, such as a product marketed by Seppic under the name, Caprylyl / Caprylglucoside, such as a product marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX CG 110 or by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, PLANTAREN 1200 N And lauryl glucoside, such as a product marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 1200, coco-glucoside, such as a product marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. Cetostearyl glucoside, e.g. by the name of MOPICNOV 68 by Seppic and by the name of TEGO-CARE CG90 those marketed by the company ldschmidt and by the company Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE3302, arachidyl glucoside, for example by the market name MONTANOV 202 in the form of a mixture of arachidyl, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside Mention may be made in particular of cocoylethyl glucoside, for example those sold by the company Seppic under the name MONTANOV 82 in the form of a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (35/65), as well as mixtures thereof.

  Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils such as ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.

The second nonionic surfactant according to the invention preferably contains an alkenyl or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acyl chain, such as an oleyl group or an isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one of the embodiments according to the invention, the second nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular of the formula:
HO (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _c H
(Where
a, b and c are integers such that a + c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60)
Of copolymers as well as mixtures thereof.

  According to one of the embodiments according to the present invention, the second nonionic surfactant can be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting examples are those disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,463,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744.

  The silicone surfactant is preferably of the following formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group or-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ Represents at least one group of R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl group;
R ₄ is hydrogen, an alkyl group, or an acyl group;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not 0 at the same time;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5]
It is this compound.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and y is in the range of 4 to 30. It is an integer.

  Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include the following formula (II):

(Where
(A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned similarly are those of formula (III):
H- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)
(Where
A ′ and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

  Compounds of the present invention that may be used are those sold under the names DC5329, DC7439-146, DC2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning. Compounds DC5329, DC7439-146, and DC2-5695 have A of 22, B of 2, y of 12, respectively; A of 103, B of 10, y of 12, A of 27, B of 3, y Is a compound of formula (II) wherein 12 is

  Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is 15 and y is 13.

  The HLB of the second nonionic surfactant is preferably 8 to 13, more preferably 9 to 12, and even more preferably 10 to 11. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all nonionic surfactants. HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (issued by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). If the nonionic surfactant HLB is less than 8, an oily feel will remain after rinsing. When the HLB of the nonionic surfactant is more than 13, the remaining property of the composition is further deteriorated.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of (a-2) nonionic surfactant is from 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, More preferably, it can be in the range of 0.5 to 10% by mass.

(b) Fatty substance The oxidizing composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty substance. Two or more fatty substances may be used in combination.

  The term `` fatty substance '' refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. having a solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1%, and even more preferentially 0.1%. It is understood to mean. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, or one chain with at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

  In particular, the fatty substance is selected from alkanes; non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols, fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.

  Within the scope of the present invention, it should be noted that the fatty substances are different from polyalkoxylated (polyethoxylated or polyoxypropylenated), polyglycerolated compounds and surfactants such as mono- or diglycerides. .

Examples of non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin
-Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalene and squalane;
-Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, e.g. liquid fatty acid triglycerides with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g. heptanoic acid triglycerides or octanoic acid triglycerides, or e.g. sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, Grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, Alara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Steininerie Dubois or Dynanamit Nobel Sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
-Linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, for example volatile or non-volatile paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene;
-Fluoro oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane sold by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3; 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or the name Foralkyl ( Bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the registered trademark; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoroethylene sold under the name PF 5052 Mention may be made of fluoromorpholine.

The term “fatty alcohol” as used herein means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃₀ higher alcohol. The C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol Arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, and mixtures thereof.

  The fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated and have 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acid is in particular selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. Preferably, the fatty substance is not a fatty acid.

A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or poly-acid ester, which is advantageously different from the triglycerides described above, in terms of esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, In addition, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyalcohol esters can be mentioned in particular, and the total carbon number of the ester is 10 or more.

Among the monoesters, dihydroabietyl behenate; behenate octyldodecyl; behenate isocetyl; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; lactic linoleyl; lactic oleyl; octoate (iso) Stearyl; isocetyl octoate; octyl octoate; cetyl octoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate Acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and palm Isopropyl mymitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl myristate, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl; hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate And dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Furthermore, in the context of this variant, an ester of a C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid with a C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohol, and a mono, di or tricarboxylic acid with a C _{2 to} C ₂₆ di, Esters with tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

  The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylate, octyl stearoyl stearate Dodecyl, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate , Triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldede citrate Sil, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearate.

The composition may also contain sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids as fatty esters. The term "sugar" has some alcohol functionality and may or may not have an aldehyde functionality or a ketone functionality, and has an oxygen-carrying carbonization with at least 4 carbon atoms Note that it means a hydrogen-based compound. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

  As used herein, in terms of non-silicone wax, “wax” means that the fatty compound is in a substantially solid form at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and generally has a melting point of 35 ° C. or higher. It means having. As waxy fatty substances, waxes commonly used in beauty products can be used alone or in combination.

For example, waxes include carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene wax such as wax sold under the name “Performalene 400 Polyethylene” by New Phase Technologies, silicone wax, for example Goldschmidt C sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H" by Kester Keunen, Inc., Palm fat; "Abil Wax 9810" products such as that sold under the name poly (C ₂₄ -C ₂₈₎ alkyl methyl dimethylsiloxane by Company It can be selected from _{20 to} C ₄₀ alkyl stearates; stearyl benzoate; shellac wax and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene wax is used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax and ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of silicones include, for example, volatile or non-volatile linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane And cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and branched organopolysiloxanes. Silicone may or may not be modified with an organic group. The silicone can be in the form of an oil, wax, resin or gum.

  Preferably, the (b) fatty substance of the present invention comprises (b-1) at least one liquid fatty substance and (b-2) at least one solid fatty substance.

  As used herein, “liquid” and “solid” means that the fatty substance is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1013 hPa), respectively. Means that.

(b-1) fatty substances of liquid, if they are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes; animal, vegetable, non-silicone oils of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols, fatty acids , Fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, and silicones. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

  Preferably, (b-1) the liquid fatty substance is a linear or branched hydrocarbon having more than 6 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, for example volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffin And their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene.

  (b-2) Solid fatty substances are solid alkanes; non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acids and / or if they are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure It can be selected from the group consisting of esters of fatty alcohols, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.

Preferably, (b-2) Solid fatty substances, fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₂ -C _24, more preferably fatty alcohol saturated C ₁₄ -C _24, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (Eg, cetearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, and myristyl alcohol.

  In another embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing composition comprises (b-1) liquid fatty substance in an amount of 1.5 to 78% by weight, preferably 5 to 65% by weight, more preferably 10%, based on the total amount of the composition. In an amount of up to 50% by weight.

  In one embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing composition comprises (b-2) solid fatty material in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 12% by weight, more preferably 3 to 5%, based on the total amount of the composition. Including 10% by mass.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the fatty substance is in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, even more preferably at least 25% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. Exists. In another embodiment of the invention, the fatty substance may be present at 16 to 40% by weight, preferably 20 to 40% by weight, more preferably 23 to 38% by weight, relative to the total amount of the composition.

  In one particular embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing composition according to the invention comprises (b-1) a liquid fatty substance and (b-2) a solid fatty substance in a mass ratio (b-1) / (b -2) from 3.0 to 5.2, preferably from 3.1 to 5.2, more preferably from 3.2 to 5.1.

(c) Oxidizing agent The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains at least one oxidizing agent. Two or more oxidizing agents may be used.

  The oxidizing agent can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and persulphates. For example, at least one oxidase enzyme selected from laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, may also be used as oxidizing agents where appropriate in the presence of their respective donors or cofactors.

  The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.

  The concentration of the oxidizing agent can be in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, for example 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

  In one embodiment, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the composition can include at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which includes, for example, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin, and acid and oxyquinoline salts such as oxyquinoline sulfate can be selected. In another embodiment, at least one stannate, optionally combined with at least one pyrophosphate, is used.

(d) Other components The oxidizing composition according to the present invention comprises other components normally used in cosmetic oxidizing compositions for keratin fibers, in particular hair dyes for coloring keratin fibers, or keratin fibers. A hair permanent wave agent for reshaping can be included. Other ingredients include, but are not limited to water and various adjuvants.

  The medium in the oxidizing composition according to the invention may comprise water as an aqueous medium. The amount of water can be 65% by weight or less, preferably 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, even more preferably 20 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent. The organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As the organic solvent, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and monomethyl ether, As well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, similar products, and mixtures thereof.

  The organic solvent can be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The adjuvant can be an adjuvant conventionally used in cosmetic cosmetic compositions for hair for keratin fibers. Examples of adjuvants include anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic copolymers, or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, especially fillers such as clay and talc; organic thickeners , Especially anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; penetrants; ionic surfactants such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic surfactants; UV Shielding agents; sequestering agents; fragrances; dispersants; film forming agents; ceramides; pseudoceramides; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol; opacifiers; swelling agents; penetrants it can.

  Sequestrants include EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salts, such as EDTA disodium and EDTA dipotassium, phosphate compounds such as sodium metaphosphate, sodium hexaphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, phosphonic acid and salts thereof, such as Mention may be made of salts of ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid and tetrasodium etidronate.

  An example of a preservative is sodium salicylate.

  Each of the above adjuvants is present in an amount between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

  The form of the oxidation composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O / W emulsion, a W / O emulsion, an aqueous gel, and an aqueous solution. The form of an O / W emulsion is preferred.

  The oxidized composition according to the present invention is stable and easy to handle because of its improved viscosity, that is, easy to mix and apply. The viscosity can be measured by a well-known method using, for example, Rheomat 180 viscometer (Rheometric Scientific).

  The pH value of the oxidizing composition according to the invention is generally from 1.5 to 12, for example. This pH can preferably range from 1.5 to 7, preferably from 2 to 6, and can be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent well known in the prior art.

  The acidifying agent can be, for example, an inorganic acid or an organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or sulfonic acid.

  The present invention also relates to a method for dyeing, decolorizing or deforming keratin fibers, comprising the step of applying an oxidizing composition according to the present invention to keratin fibers.

  When used in a hair dyeing process or a hair bleaching process, the oxidizing composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent and optionally at least one coloring material such as an oxidizing dye and / or a direct dye. May be used by mixing with other separate cosmetic compositions comprising The mixing ratio between the composition according to the invention and another separate cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkaline agent can be from 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5.

  In this case, the oxidizing composition according to the invention and the separate cosmetic composition comprise a multi-compartment in which the first compartment comprises the cosmetic composition according to the invention and the second or subsequent compartment comprises a separate cosmetic composition. It may be formulated in a system or kit. The multi-compartment system may comprise means for mixing and / or applying the above composition, such as valves and nozzles.

  Alkaline agents are inorganic alkaline agents such as ammonia and derivatives thereof, alkali metal salts; alkaline earth metal salts; alkali metal hydroxides; and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, or organic alkaline agents such as monoamine and derivatives thereof; Diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers and derivatives of basic amino acids; polymers and derivatives of basic amino acids; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof .

  Oxidative dyes can be selected from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and acid addition salts thereof.

  The oxidation base consists of those previously known in oxidation dyeing, preferably consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and acid addition salts thereof. You can choose from a group.

  The oxidized coupler is selected from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenol, naphthol, heterocyclic couplers, and acid addition salts thereof from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing. can do.

  The direct dye may also be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyes, such as nitrobenzene dyes, azo direct dyes and methane direct dyes.

  The pH of the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers can generally be 4 to 12, for example. When mixed with an alkaline agent, its pH can range from 6 to 12, preferably 7 to 11, and is adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent well known in the art. be able to.

The oxidizing composition according to the present invention can be used by directly treating keratin fibers with the composition in coloring or decolorizing keratin fibers such as hair. After an exposure time of approximately 1 to 60 minutes, the fibers are rinsed; optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried, or
Cosmetic compositions prepared on the fly by mixing an oxidizing composition according to the invention and another separate cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkaline agent immediately before application to keratin fibers, wet or dry Applying to the keratin fibers;
Leaving the mixed cosmetic composition to act for an exposure time in the range of approximately 1 to 60 minutes, preferably approximately 5 to 45 minutes;
Rinsing the fibers;
Optionally by washing them with a shampoo, rinsing them again and then drying them.

The oxidizing composition according to the invention can be used in deformation, in particular in making keratin fibers such as hair permanent waved or straightened, for example
Applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers for deformation;
Applying a cosmetic composition comprising at least one reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid to keratin fibers;
After an exposure time of approximately 5 to 40 minutes, optionally rinsing the keratin fibers and then applying the oxidizing composition according to the invention onto the keratin fibers. After an exposure time of approximately 1 to 20 minutes, the fibers are optionally rinsed; optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.

  Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to transform the keratin fibers into the intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension can be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, plates and irons. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater.

  The application of the cosmetic composition may be performed at room temperature or using a heating device capable of generating a temperature in the range of 40 to 220 ° C, preferably in the range of 40 to 80 ° C. .

  The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples, however, the examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

  The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. In these examples, the numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all active ingredients. Based on “mass%.” Cetealess-60 myristyl glycol was purchased from AKZO NOBEL.

Each of the compositions obtained in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was evaluated by measuring their viscosities with a Rheomat 180 viscometer (Rheometric Scientific), No. 3 spindle at 200 rpm, 25 ° C. . The results are summarized in Table 1 below. Viscosity was scored according to the following criteria:
Good: 3 Pas or more and 4.5 Pas or less, stable, thickened composition failure: less than 3 Pas, the viscosity is low to handle it, so the desired quality of the composition is not achieved

  As shown in Table 1, Examples 1 and 2 had good viscosities, so that these compositions exhibited excellent stability. More than that, they are easy to mix with other cosmetic compositions and easy to apply to keratin fibers.

  In contrast, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 lacking the (a-1) specific first nonionic surfactant of the present invention did not achieve the desired viscosity.

Claims (12)

(a) (a-1) Formula (i)
R- (O-Alk) _n -OR '(i)
[In the formula (i),
- R represents a linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
- R 'represents optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, a linear or branched, a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical saturated or unsaturated,
-n is an integer between 1 and 100 including fractions;
-Alk represents a linear or branched, preferably linear, ethylene or propylene, preferably a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylene group such as ethylene]
The first nonionic surfactant and
(a-1) a second nonionic surfactant other than the first nonionic surfactant (a-2),
Preferably, (a) at least two nonionic surfactants in which the total amount of nonionic surfactant is in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition;
(b) at least one fatty substance;
(c) An oxidizing composition for keratin fibers comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   The oxidizing composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty substance is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. (b) the fatty substance is
(b-1) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature;
3. The oxidizing composition according to claim 1, comprising (b-2) at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature.   4. The oxidizing composition according to claim 3, wherein the (b-1) liquid fatty substance is present in an amount of 1.5 to 78% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. The oxidizing composition according to claim 3, wherein (b-2) the solid fatty substance is present in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   The oxidizing composition for keratin fibers according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty substances is from 16 to 40% by weight.   The oxidizing composition for keratin fibers according to any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein the mass ratio of (b-1) liquid fatty substance / (b-2) solid fatty substance is 3.0 to 5.2. object. (a-1) a first non-ionic surfactant is represented by the formula (i), R represents a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group linear saturated, R 'is OH group in a straight-chain C ₁₄ alkyl group, saturated substituted, Alk represents an ethylene radical, n has an average value 60, keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 7 Oxidizing composition for.   (a-2) The oxidizing composition for keratin fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the second nonionic surfactant is a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.   A method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying the oxidizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratin fibers.   A method for decolorizing keratin fibers, comprising applying the oxidizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratin fibers. Applying a composition comprising at least one reducing agent to keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing the keratin fibers;
Applying the oxidizing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratin fibers;
Optionally rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.
A method for deforming, in particular permanent waving or straightening keratin fibers, preferably hair.