JP2017511346A - 皮膚を水和させるための美容組成物 - Google Patents
皮膚を水和させるための美容組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2017511346A JP2017511346A JP2016562256A JP2016562256A JP2017511346A JP 2017511346 A JP2017511346 A JP 2017511346A JP 2016562256 A JP2016562256 A JP 2016562256A JP 2016562256 A JP2016562256 A JP 2016562256A JP 2017511346 A JP2017511346 A JP 2017511346A
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- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- agent
- lipid bilayer
- skin
- glyceryl
- Prior art date
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- Granted
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Abstract
Description
本発明の美容組成物は、哺乳類ケラチン性組織、特にヒトの皮膚に塗布することができる。この美容組成物は様々な形態であり得る。例えば、非限定的な形態のいくつかの例としては、溶液、懸濁液、ローション、クリーム、ゲル、化粧水、スティック、ペンシル、スプレー、エアゾール、軟膏、クレンジング洗剤液及びクレンジング棒状固形物、シャンプー及びヘアコンディショナー、ペースト、フォーム、パウダー、ムース、髭剃りクリーム、拭き取り剤、ストリップ、パッチ、電動パッチ、創傷被覆材及び粘着性包帯、ヒドロゲル、フィルム形成製品、顔及び皮膚マスク、化粧品(例えばファンデーション、アイライナー、アイシャドウ)などが挙げられる。
湿潤剤は、水分子の水素結合と、皮膚の親水性分子官能性とに親和性を有しており、したがって、内部の水分子のみならず皮膚分子にも結合する。湿潤剤(例えばグリセリン)を含む美容製品の局所塗布は、バリア機能の改善、角化細胞の増殖及び創傷の治癒に伴うバイオマーカーの誘導、メラニン強度の低下、表皮の厚さの増大、及び一般的な皮膚の外観の改善を伴い得る。
カオトロピック剤は、例えばタンパク質及び核酸(例えばDNA及びRNA)などの水素結合による巨大分子の水素結合ネットワーク又は構造を壊し、その疎水性作用を弱めることによって分子を変性させる物質である。カオトロピック溶質は、水素結合、ファンデルワールス力、疎水性作用などの非共有結合力により媒介される分子間相互作用を妨げることにより、系のエントロピーを増大させる。カオトロピック溶質は、タンパク質に隣接する水分子を乱雑にすることにより、(例えば脂質二重層中の)疎水性領域の全体的な疎水性作用を低下させる。これによって疎水性領域が溶液に可溶化され、これによってタンパク質が変性される。図1は、スキンケア組成物2中にカオトロピック剤8を含めた場合の皮膚にもたらされ得る影響を模式的に示す。具体的には、カオトロピック剤が、皮膚の角質層脂質二重層の上にある架橋したタンパク質層4の中の水素結合を変性させ、これにより、組成物のより多くの物質(例えば、スキンケア活性物質10、湿潤剤10など)が皮膚の表面層6の内部に入り込むことができるようになることが、図に示されている。
表皮の主な機能は、身体の保護バリアとして働き、生命維持に必要な水を保持し、病原体の侵入を防ぐことである。表皮自体は複数の層で構成され、その1つが角質層である。脂質二重層構造が乱され、組織化が弱まると、バリアとして効果的に機能するその能力が悪影響を受ける。
驚くべきことに、1つ又は2つ以上の湿潤剤を、脂質二重層構造化剤及びカオトロピック剤と組み合わせることにより、皮膚の水和レベルを高めることが判明した。本発明者らは、カオトロピック剤が、皮膚の表面層に入り込む湿潤剤と脂質二重層構造化剤の量を増加させることを見出し、湿潤剤の濃度が増加することにより、皮膚表面層内に結合する水分の合計量が増加し、かつ、脂質二重層構造化剤が角質層内の脂質二重層を相互密着させて、経皮的な水の喪失を低減することを見出した。
この美容組成物は、1つ又は2つ以上のスキンケア活性物質を含んでよく、例えばナイアシンアミドなどのビタミンB3活性物質を含み得る。ナイアシンアミドの局所塗布は、様々な美容スキンケア効果に関連し得る。これらの効果としては、i)年齢に伴う皮膚中のニコチンアミド補酵素の欠乏の正常化、ii)表皮バリア効果を伴う表皮のセラミド合成の上昇、iii)紫外線を浴びることによって生じるダメージに対する保護、iv)メラニン細胞から角化細胞へのメラノソームの移動の阻害(これにより潜在的な皮膚のトーン効果が得られる)、及び皮脂腺の脂質生成の低下が挙げられる。よって特定の例において、加齢/光によりダメージを受けた皮膚の外観を改善するために、美容組成物中にナイアシンアミドを含めることが望ましい可能性がある。
Claims (13)
- i)安全かつ有効な量の湿潤剤と、
ii)安全かつ有効な量の脂質二重層構造化剤(lipid bilayer structurant)と、
iii)安全かつ有効な量のカオトロピック剤と、
を含む、局所塗布に適した美容組成物。 - 前記組成物が、合組成物に対して約2重量%〜約10重量%の湿潤剤を含む、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記湿潤剤が、グリセロール、ジグリセリン、エリスリトール、アラビトール、キシリトール、リビトール、マンニトール、ソルビトール、ガラクチトール、フシトール、マルチトール、マンノース、イノシトール、トリエチレングリコール、ピロリドンカルボン酸(PCA)ナトリウム、PCA亜鉛、これらの誘導体、及びこれらの混合物からなる群から選択される多価アルコールである、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記湿潤剤が、グリセリン及びキシリトールのうち一方又は両方である、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記組成物が、約1重量%〜20重量%の脂質二重層構造化剤を含む、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記脂質二重層構造化剤が、バチルアルコール、モノオレイン酸グリセリル、イソステアリルグリセリルエーテル、イソステアリン酸グリセリル、モノエルカ酸グリセリル、オレイン酸グリセリル、ヘキサデシルグリセリルエーテル、モノステアリン酸グリセリル、モノオレイン酸グリセリル、モノヒドロキシステアリン酸グリセリル、モノリノール酸グリセリル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、パルミチン酸ミリスチル、ステアリン酸ミリスチル、パルミチン酸パルミチル、ステアリン酸セチル、ステアリン酸ステアリル、ステアリン酸イソセチル、パルミチン酸イソオクタデシル、イソオクタデカン酸イソへキサデシル、イソオクタデカン酸、2−ヒドロキシオクタデシルエステル、イソステアリン酸セチルグリコール、及びこれらの混合物からなる群から選択される、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記脂質二重層構造化剤がイソステアリン酸イソプロピルである、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記組成物が、約1重量%〜約20重量%のカオトロピック剤を含む、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記カオトロピック剤が、グアニジン塩酸塩(R1N−C(NR2)−NR3)、尿素((R1N−C(O)−NR2)、これらの誘導体、及びこれらの混合物である、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- 前記カオトロピック剤がヒドロキシエチル尿素である、請求項1に記載の美容組成物。
- i)約2%〜約10%の湿潤剤と、
ii)約1%〜約20%の脂質二重層構造化剤と、
iii)約1%〜約20%のカオトロピック剤と、
を含む、局所塗布に適した美容組成物。 - 美容組成物の使用方法であって、処置を必要とする顔面皮膚表面に美容組成物を塗布する工程を含み、該美容組成物が、湿潤剤と、カオトロピック剤と、脂質二重層構造化剤と、を含む、方法。
- 皮膚の水和を高める方法であって、皮膚表面に局所用組成物を塗布する工程を含み、該組成物が、湿潤剤と、カオトロピック剤と、脂質二重層構造化剤と、を含む、方法。
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