JP2016000745A - Composition with enhanced hydration ability - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition which provides an excellent moisturizing effect.SOLUTION: An emulsion other than the water-in-oil type comprises (A) at least one N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by formula (I), and (B) at least one polyalcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups. [Rrepresents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or linear, C5-21 alkyl or alkenyl group; Rand Reach independently represent H or a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or linear, C1-4 alkyl group; and n is an integer between 0 to 2.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition with enhanced hydration capacity, preferably used for moisturizing the skin and / or lips.

  The stratum corneum is a thin keratinized layer that forms an interface between a living body and a dehydrating external environment. It is formed from the upper epithelial tissue, i.e. the epidermis, and the underlying connected tissue, i.e. the dermis.

  The stratum corneum, approximately 10-15 μm thick, is composed of vertically stacked keratinocytes surrounded by a matrix formed from lipids organized in lamellar liquid crystalline phases. This is therefore a two-compartment system that can be compared to a brick wall, composed of anucleate cells (“brick”) and a lamellar liquid crystal phase (“cement”) between cells.

  The function of the stratum corneum is in particular to regulate the flow of water into and out of the skin, thus delaying excessive loss of water arising from deeper layers of the epidermis. The stratum corneum also protects against mechanical attack and the passage of chemical products and foreign microorganisms. The stratum corneum also provides the first line of defense against UV radiation.

  In general, a humectant or hydrating agent is defined as a substance that suppresses the impression of dry skin by affecting the moisture of the skin by addition or retention.

  Everyone knows that it is important to keep the skin well hydrated, especially when the skin is affected by dryness. Cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for providing moisture to the skin, specifically dry skin, are widely used.

  For example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-125514 discloses a sterol ester of an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid having a specific chemical structure, which is used as a raw material for a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition. According to Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-125514, sterol esters are said to be capable of strengthening hydration ability and providing an emollient effect.

  Further, JP 2000-355531 discloses a mixture of the above sterol ester and an alkyl ester or alkenyl ester of an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid having a specific chemical structure as a raw material for a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition. Disclosure. According to Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-355531, a composition containing the above mixture can bring about an excellent moisturizing effect such as excellent moisture retention and excellent moisture permeability.

  Furthermore, JP 2008-260707 discloses a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion used for cosmetics comprising the above mixture, silicone oil and water.

  Glycerin is also known as a wettable powder in cosmetic compositions.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 5-125514 JP 2000-355531 A JP 2008-260707 A Japanese Patent Publication No.51-38681 JP-A-2-95912

operators guide, Malvern Instruments, December 1998, 61-67

  However, there remains a need to provide compositions with enhanced hydration capabilities.

  One object of the present invention is to provide an excellent moisturizing effect to emulsions other than water-in-oil emulsions such as oil-in-water emulsions for use in cosmetic and dermatological compositions containing the above raw materials. It is.

  The above object of the present invention can be achieved by combining the above raw materials with a polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups in an oil-in-water emulsion.

Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is
(A) Formula (I):

[Where
R ¹ represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 21 carbon atoms;
R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms excluding the behenyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted branched group having 2 to 34 carbon atoms. A linear or linear alkenyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group;
n represents an integer from 0 to 2]
At least one N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by:
(B) A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion other than a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one polyhydric alcohol having three or more hydroxy groups It is.

The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester of (A) represented by formula (I) is:
(i) N-long chain acyl neutral where R ⁴ in formula (I) is a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms excluding the behenyl group Amino acid esters; and
(ii) It is preferable to include a mixture of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters in which R ⁴ in formula (I) is a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group.

R ^{1 in} formula (I) represents an unsubstituted linear alkyl group having 10 to 21 carbon atoms; R ⁴ in formula (I) is unsubstituted having 23 to 34 carbon atoms It is preferable that n in the formula (I) represents 1.

  The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester of (A) is N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine phytosteryl, N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine decyltetradecyl, or a mixture thereof. More preferably. The mixture can include N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine phytosteryl and N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine decyltetradecyl in a ratio of 20:80 to 80:20.

  On the other hand, the polyhydric alcohol having three or more hydroxy groups in (B) is preferably selected from glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, or a mixture thereof.

  According to the present invention, the oil phase in the composition preferably comprises at least one non-silicone oil.

  In the composition of the present invention, the amount of the N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester of (A) is preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, The amount of polyhydric alcohol having one or more hydroxy groups is preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  More preferably, the ratio of the amount of polyhydric alcohol having three or more hydroxy groups in (B) to the amount of (A) N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester is 1 or more, preferably 2.

  Advantageously, the composition of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

  The composition of the present invention can preferably be used to hydrate the skin.

  Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic method for treating dry skin and / or lips comprising topically applying the composition of the present invention to dry skin and / or lips, and the composition of the present invention. A method for hydrating the skin and / or lips comprising topically applying to the dry skin and / or lips.

  As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors preferably have a cosmetic composition and dermatology comprising an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid alkyl ester or alkenyl ester together with an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid sterol ester. By combining one or more polyhydric alcohols having three or more hydroxy groups with the ester in an emulsion other than a water-in-oil emulsion, such as an oil-in-water emulsion, used in a composition for an application. It has been discovered that it is possible to provide a moisturizing effect.

Therefore, the cosmetic composition and dermatological composition of the present invention are:
(A) Formula (I):

[Where
R ¹ represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 21 carbon atoms;
R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, having 2 to 34 carbon atoms, excluding behenyl groups. Represents a branched or straight chain alkenyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group;
n represents an integer from 0 to 2]
At least one N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by
(B) characterized by containing at least one polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups.

  Hereinafter, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.

(A) N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester

The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester used in the present invention has the following chemical formula:

[Where
R ¹ represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 21 carbon atoms;
R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, having 2 to 34 carbon atoms, excluding behenyl groups. Represents a branched or straight chain alkenyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group;
n represents an integer from 0 to 2]
Represented by

The long chain acyl group (R ¹ CO) appearing in the aforementioned formula (I) is a substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Can be. Examples thereof include capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, palm kernel oil fatty acid, Mention may be made of acyl groups that can be derived from hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acids, beef tallow fatty acids and hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acids. Such a fatty acid can be a fatty acid having a hydroxyl group. Preferred acyl groups are caproyl groups, lauroyl groups, myristoyl groups, palmitoyl groups, stearoyl groups and behenoyl groups, and monovalents that can be derived from coconut oil fatty acids, palm kernel oil fatty acids, hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acids and hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acids. It can be an acid residue (acyl group).

Thus, R ¹ is a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain having 5 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 21 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 21 carbon atoms. An alkyl group or an alkenyl group; More preferably, R ¹ in formula (I) represents an unsubstituted linear alkyl group having 10 to 21 carbon atoms. Specifically, a myristyl group is preferable as R ¹ in the formula (I).

As shown in the aforementioned formula (I), R ² and R ³ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Can be represented. As the alkyl group, a methyl group or an ethyl group is preferable.

  Therefore, as a neutral amino acid constituting the neutral amino acid portion of the N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by the aforementioned formula (I), glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, Mention may be made of neutral amino acids such as hydroxyproline, β-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine or N-methyl-β-alanine. Among these, preferred are glycine, alanine, β-alanine, α-aminobutyric acid, γ-aminobutyric acid, sarcosine and N-methyl-β-alanine; more preferred are sarcosine, alanine, glycine and N- Methyl-β-alanine; most preferred are sarcosine and N-methyl-β-alanine. Therefore, it is preferable that the above formula (I) is 1. Such amino acids may be optically active or racemic.

As shown in the above formula (I), R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms excluding the behenyl group, 2 to 34 carbon atoms Represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkenyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group.

Therefore, as the non-steryl hydrocarbon group (R ⁴ ) constituting the alcohol part of the N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by the above formula (I), 1 to 21 or 23 to 34 carbon atoms And a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably an unsubstituted branched alkyl group having 23 to 34 carbon atoms. Among them, preferred examples include methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, fusel oil, pentanol, hexanol, Cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, decyltetradecanol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2- Mention may be made of alkyl groups which may be derived from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol. Among them, preferred are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, decyltetradecanol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol and iso Stearyl alcohol; more preferred are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol; most preferred is decyltetra Decanol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, and isostearyl alcohol.

As a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group (R ⁴ ) constituting the alcohol part of the N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by the aforementioned formula (I), cholesterol, dihydrocholesterol, sitosterol, campesterol And steryl groups derived from stigmasterol, phytosterol, lanosterol and their hydrogenated products. Among them, preferred are cholesterol, sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, phytosterol and lanosterol; more preferred are cholesterol, sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and phytosterol; most preferred is cholesterol And phytosterols. Therefore, R ⁴ is preferably a phytosteryl group. These may be any of those derived from animals and plants and those synthesized.

  Therefore, the most preferred N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester used in the present invention is N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine phytosteryl or N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine decyltetradecyl. is there.

  The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester used in the present invention may be a mixture of esters according to the formula (I) described above.

The mixture is
(i) in N-long chain acyl, wherein R ⁴ in formula (I) is a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms excluding the behenyl group Amino acid esters; and
(ii) It is preferable to include an N-long-chain acyl neutral amino acid ester in which R ⁴ in formula (I) is a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group.

  When the N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by the above formula (I) is composed of the above (i) and (ii) esters, the (i) ester and (ii) ester are 99: 1 To 35:65 weight ratio, more preferably 96: 4 to 40:60 weight ratio, most preferably 93: 7 to 60:40 weight ratio. Can do. (i) When the ester ratio exceeds 99: 1, sufficient moisturizing properties cannot be achieved, while when (i) the ester ratio is less than 35:65, tackiness may occur. Yes, this is not preferred.

  More preferably, the mixture comprises both N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine phytosteryl and N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine decyltetradecyl. In this case, the mixture comprises N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine phytosteryl and N-myristoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine decyltetradecyl in a ratio of 20:80 to 80:20, preferably It can be included in a ratio of 30:70 to 70:30, more preferably in a ratio of 40:60 to 60:40, even more preferably in a ratio of 50:50.

  A preferred example of this mixture is that sold by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. under the trade name ELDEW (registered trademark) APS-307.

  N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters are prepared, for example, by condensation esterification of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acids with alkyl and / or alkenyl alcohols and / or sterols by thermal dehydration at atmospheric pressure or in vacuum. can do. For example, 1 mol of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid and 1.0 to 1.2 mol of alcohol and / or sterol are dissolved in a nonpolar solvent such as benzene or toluene and stirred. Next, 0.01 to 1.5 mol of an acid catalyst such as sulfuric acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, hydrogen chloride or strong acid ion exchange resin is added thereto, and the mixture is heated with stirring at 70 to 200 ° C. for 1 to 10 hours. During the reaction, it is preferable to remove water produced as a by-product in order to accelerate the reaction as much as possible.

  It is also possible to prepare N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters by azeotropic condensation reaction with a solvent such as toluene or by transesterification. The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid for use in the synthesis of such an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester does not necessarily need to be a single compound, and different types of acyl groups or neutral amino acids may be used. It may be a mixture of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acids. Similarly, the alcohol used for the synthesis of such N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters need not necessarily be a single compound, but a mixture of alcohols having different chain lengths, etc. Also good.

  Of course, an ester of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid and alkyl and / or alkenyl alcohol and an ester of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid and sterol are prepared separately, and then the two esters are mixed. It is also possible to prepare N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters.

  The N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester prepared as described above is in the form of the reaction mixture itself, as long as the effects of the present invention for the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention are not impaired. It can be used as is, and if necessary or desired, it can be purified by known and common methods used by those skilled in the art, such as recrystallization methods or column chromatography methods.

  N-long chain acyl neutral amino acids or their salts, and alcohols or sterols, and N-long chain acyl neutral amino acids or their for use as starting materials for the preparation of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters Neutral amino acids and the like that can be present in the salt, and fatty acids that can be formed as by-products, are usually included in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, and thus they are effective for the present invention. It goes without saying that it can be included in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention as long as it is not lowered.

  The N-long-chain acyl neutral amino acid can be produced by a known method such as a so-called Schotten-Baumann reaction in which a long-chain fatty acid halide and an amino acid are allowed to react with each other in the presence of a basic catalyst ( (For example, see JP-B 51-38681).

  The amount of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester is not limited. The amount of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester is 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 0%, based on the total weight of the composition. It is preferably 5% by weight.

(B) Polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups

The polyhydric alcohol used in the present invention as an essential component must have 3 or more hydroxy groups in one molecule.

  As long as the polyhydric alcohol has 3 or more hydroxy groups, the type of polyhydric alcohol is not limited. Examples of polyhydric alcohols having three or more hydroxyl groups include glycerol such as glycerol, diglycerol, and polyglycerol; polysaccharides such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mannitol; Mention may be made of acids and polyvinyl alcohol.

  Preference is given to using polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups with a low molecular weight, such as those containing 3 to 100 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 50 carbon atoms. Accordingly, glycerol such as glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin is preferred, and glycerin is most preferred.

  The amount of the polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups is not limited. The amount of the polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups is preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

  The ratio of the amount of polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups to the amount of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester is not limited. However, this ratio is preferably 2 or more.

  Polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups and N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters can show a synergistic effect on hydration properties on the skin, specifically dry skin. In other words, polyhydric alcohols with 3 or more hydroxy groups are expected based on the total hydration capacity of polyhydric alcohols with 3 or more hydroxy groups and N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters. Beyond that, the hydration ability of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters can be enhanced. On the other hand, N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters also exceed expectations based on the total hydration capacity of polyhydric alcohols with 3 or more hydroxyl groups and N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters, respectively. The hydration ability of polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups can also be enhanced.

  Therefore, polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups can function as enhancers of the hydration ability of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters, while N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters Can be used as an enhancer of the hydration ability of a polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups. That is, polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups can be used to enhance the hydration ability of N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters, while N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid esters. Can be used to enhance the hydration ability of polyhydric alcohols having 3 or more hydroxy groups.

  Therefore, a combination of an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester and a polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups can be used in combination as a wettable powder having a synergistically enhanced hydration ability. Preferably, the combination can be used as a wettable powder for the skin, in particular for dry skin.

(C) Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition

The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention contains N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester and polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups as essential components. The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention has a synergistic moisturizing effect based on a combination of an N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester and a polyhydric alcohol having three or more hydroxy groups.

  Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to mean a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

  The composition of the present invention is an emulsion other than water-in-oil type, such as oil-in-water type (O / W), water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), and oil-in-water-in-oil type (O / W / O). Preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. This means that the composition of the present invention does not contain an oil continuous phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, but preferably comprises an aqueous continuous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase. Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the composition of the present invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion are described.

  The average size of the oil phase droplets can be measured by light diffraction using a Mastersizer 2000 particle size analyzer (sold by Malvern Instruments). These measurements can be performed on an emulsion diluted in an aqueous solution of 1% SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate). A computer program makes it possible to obtain a volume average diameter D [4.3] (μm) (see the operators guide, Malvern Instruments, December 1998, pages 61-67).

  The average size D [4.3] (μm) of the oil phase droplets of the composition of the present invention is in the range of 0.01 μm to 6 μm, more specifically in the range of 0.1 μm to 4 μm, preferably in the range of 0.1 μm to 2 μm. Can be.

  The amount of oil phase is not limited, and it can be present in an amount of 1 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the oil phase can range, for example, from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 8 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The oil phase may contain only oil (liquid fatty substance) or may contain a mixture of oil and other fatty substances such as higher alcohols and fatty acids. However, the amount of oil is preferably at least 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the oil phase, preferably 30% by weight or more with respect to the total weight of the oil phase. The term “oil” is intended to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).

  The oil phase can include at least one non-silicone oil.

  As the non-silicone oil, for example, a mineral or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil can be used. The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly comprising carbon atoms and hydrogen, optionally esters, ethers and / or fluorinated groups.

  As hydrocarbon-based oils, fatty acid esters, preferably those obtained from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 30 carbon atoms and having 3 to 30 carbon atoms Mention may be made of those obtained from fatty acids containing straight or branched chains (the total number of carbon atoms of the ester is 24 or more); alkanes; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of fatty acid esters include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or stearic acid). octyl), octyldodecyl neopentanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol isostearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols benzoate (Finetex made of Finsolv TN) and to mixtures thereof Can do.

  The amount of hydrocarbon-based oil is not limited, but is preferably at least 10% of the total weight of the oil phase, preferably at least 20% of the total weight of the oil phase. This amount is preferably in the range from 10 to 100% by weight and better still from 20 to 90% by weight of the total weight of the oil phase.

  Examples of alkanes include petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated isoparaffins such as Parleam® oil (INCI name: hydrogenated polyisobutene) sold by NOF Corporation, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises squalane.

The oil phase can contain other oils. Other oils include capric acid / 2-ethylhexyl caprylate (or octyl capric acid / octyl caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate , Butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate , Isobutyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or hydroxystearate) Octyl), decyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate (or dioctyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl malate ( Or octyl malate), caprylic acid / pentaerythritol caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (or octyl hexanoate), octyl dodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lactic acid Lauryl, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (or octyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl octoate (or octyl octoate) Esters with a molecular weight of less than 360 g / mol; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205 from Unipex), dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis);
Ethers such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis);
Sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coriander oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot oil, beauty leaf (beauty- leaf) oil, camellia oil, corn germ oil, malt oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, passiflora oil, rye oil, sold by Sterineries Dubois or Miglyol 810, 812 and by Dynamite Nobel Hydrocarbon oils derived from plants, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides such as those sold under the name 818;
Volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing linear or cyclic silicone chains that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, specifically cyclopolydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone) such as cyclohexasiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl groups, alkoxy groups or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain (these groups have 2 to 24 carbon atoms); phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethyl-siloxydiphenyl Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils such as siloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylphenylsiloxane, etc .; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicic Over emissions based fluorine oil, for example, those described in JP-A-2-295912;
Linear or branched from mineral, synthetic or animal origin, selected from isohexadecane, isododecane, _C8-9 and _C11-13 isoparaffins (CTFA names: _C8-9 isoparaffins and _C11-13 isoparaffins) Particular hydrocarbon-based oils; and mixtures thereof.

  The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount of not more than 99% by weight, preferably not more than 90% by weight of the total weight of the composition, this amount being, for example, relative to the total weight of the composition It can range from 20 to 99% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight. The amount of water in the aqueous phase may be, for example, in the range of 50 to 100% by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyol (or polyhydric alcohol) having two hydroxy groups generally present in the aqueous phase, so long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Can do. Examples of such polyols include glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and polyethylene glycol such as PEG-8. The amount of such polyol is generally in the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

  The aqueous phase can contain, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from water-soluble lower alcohols, in addition to water and the optional polyol having two hydroxy groups described above. The term “lower alcohol” is intended to mean an alcohol containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of lower alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof. When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the water-soluble lower alcohol can be in an amount of 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

  The compositions according to the invention can also contain any adjuvants or additives, for example those commonly used in the subject field, in particular in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Of course, the advantageous properties inherently associated with the compositions of the present invention should be noted by those skilled in the art in such a way that they are not altered or substantially unchanged by the envisaged addition. Optional additives will be selected.

  Among the conventional adjuvants that can be included in the aqueous and / or oily phase of the emulsions of the present invention (according to the water-soluble or fat-soluble nature of these adjuvants), anionic (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium alkyl phosphate) Or sodium trideceth sulfate), amphoteric (such as alkylbetaine or disodium cocoamphodiacetate), or nonionic with HLB exceeding 10 (such as POE / PPG / POE, alkyl polyglucoside, or polyglyceryl-3 hydroxylauryl ether) Foaming surfactants; preservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA); antioxidants; perfumes; dyes such as soluble pigments, pigments and pearls; matting, tensioning, bleaching or exfoliating filling Agents; sunscreens; effective cosmetic or dermatological agents and agents that have the effect of improving the cosmetic properties of skin that are hydrophilic or lipophilic; Kaishitsu; hydrophilic or lipophilic, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric, may be mentioned thickening or dispersing polymers. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the subject field, for example, from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

  Effective additives that can be used in the composition of the present invention include, for example, vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins such as derivatives of these vitamins (specifically esters) and mixtures thereof; preservatives; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) or 3, Antibacterial effective drugs such as 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban); antiseborrheic drugs; antibacterial drugs such as benzyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid or niacin (vit.PP); Mention may be made of slimming agents such as caffeine; optical brighteners, and any effective additive suitable for the end purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of effective additive depends on the desired purpose. The active agent may be present, for example, at a concentration of 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight and better still 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition of the present invention usually comprises one or more emulsifiers for dispersing the oil phase in the aqueous phase. The type of emulsifier is not limited. Examples of emulsifiers include polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters (eg, PEG-100 stearate) and glycerol fatty acid esters (eg, glyceryl stearate). A mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is preferred as an emulsifier. The amount of emulsifier is not limited, but can be 0.001 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The emulsion of the present invention can be obtained by a conventional method such as adding an oil phase material to an aqueous phase material and then stirring.

Alternatively, the emulsion of the present invention can be prepared by a phase inversion method. This preparation method is
1) weighing all components of the composition (except for heat sensitive starting materials, if any) in the container;
2) For example, homogenizing the mixture at Rayneri 350 rpm and, for example, in a water bath, to a temperature above the phase inversion temperature T2, i.e. a transparent or translucent phase (microemulsion or lamellar phase region) is obtained, Heating by gradually increasing the temperature until a more viscous white phase is obtained indicating that an inverse emulsion (W / O) has been obtained;
3) a step of stopping heating, a step of maintaining stirring until the temperature reaches ambient temperature again, and a step of passing through a phase inversion temperature T1, that is, a temperature at which a fine O / W emulsion is obtained
4) If the temperature falls again below the phase inversion temperature (T1) region, it may optionally include the step of adding a heat sensitive starting material.

  The composition of the present invention is an emulsion other than water-in-oil type, such as oil-in-water type (O / W), water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), and oil-in-water-in-oil type (O / W / O). And preferably in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The composition of the present invention is specifically a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition, such as skin, Specifically, it constitutes a cosmetic composition for treating keratin such as face, mucous membrane, eyelash, scalp, hair and nails. The emulsion of the present invention can be a cleaning product such as a cream, lotion, gel, impregnated towel, patch, body wash, and facial cleanser.

  These include, for example, makeup removal compositions and / or cleansing compositions and / or care compositions for the skin, mucous membranes such as lips and / or eyelashes, facial skin or body skin And (if the composition contains exfoliating particles) facial and hand scrubbing (or exfoliating) compositions, sun protection compositions (UV protection) and post-sun compositions. it can. These make up keratin, specifically make-up compositions for skin, lips and eyelashes, more specifically foundations, lipsticks or lip gloss etc. after adding appropriate pigments and / or fillers. You can also

  The compositions of the present invention can be used as shower care balms; rinse agents and hair care balms (e.g., massaging in the product until oil is released, then rinsing the skin that is then soft and moistened) As a shaving product; as a mask including a rejuvenation mask after sunburn; as a slimming poultice (to be massaged and then washed away) into the area of the orange peel skin; as a massage ball; As a balm to repair lips; it can also be used as a dry foot balm. In these uses, the product is washed away after use.

  When the composition is an exfoliating product (also called a cleansing product), use includes applying the product to the face or hands or body, rubbing for 1 or 2 minutes, and then rinsing. In that case, the skin is smooth, soft and clean.

  The composition of the present invention is preferably used to hydrate the skin, specifically the face. Preferably, the composition of the present invention can be used to treat dry skin.

  Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can be used in a method for treating dry skin and / or lips, preferably in a method for cosmetically treating dry skin and / or lips, And / or topically applying the composition of the invention to the lips.

  Alternatively, the composition of the present invention can be used in a method for hydrating the skin and / or lips, specifically dry skin and / or lips, and the composition of the present invention is applied to the skin and / or lips. Application locally.

  Alternatively, the composition of the present invention can be used in a method for hydrating skin and / or lips in need of treatment, specifically human skin and / or lips in need of treatment. Human skin is understood as all human skin, such as adult, child or infant skin.

(Example)
The present invention will be described in greater detail using specific examples, but should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

  In the following examples, the phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl myristoylmethyl β-alanine used is that sold by Ajinomoto Co. under the trade name ELDEW® APS-307.

  The amount of water in the stratum corneum (SC) was quantified by a capacitance method with a Corneometer® (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany). This measurement uses arbitrary units that increase as the skin becomes more hydrated.

(Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3)
The following compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 according to the preparation method described below. The numbers in Table 1 refer to weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation method
1) Phase A and phase B were separately heated to about 70-75 ° C, respectively.
2) Pour B phase into A phase.
3) The mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer at 8000 rpm for 5 minutes.
4) Phase C was added to the mixture and stirred.
5) The mixture was cooled and D and E phases were added.

  About Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3, the hydration property was measured and evaluated in accordance with the following method.

Test method
1) The skin condition of the forearm of 24 female volunteers was measured with a Corneometer (registered trademark) (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).
2) The compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were applied to the forearm in an amount of ² mg / cm2.
3) One hour after application, the forearm skin condition was again measured with a Corneometer® (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).

The results of the test are shown in Table 2.

  Table 2 shows that phytosteryl / decyltetradecylmyristoylmethyl β-alanine alone does not have any hydration enhancing effect. On the other hand, Table 2 clearly shows that the combination of phytosteryl / decyltetradecylmyristoylmethyl β-alanine and glycerin has a synergistic effect on skin hydration. The sum of the differences between Comparative Examples 2 and 3 and Comparative Example 1 (−0.6 + 9.27 = 8.67) is much less than the difference between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 (+12.98).

(Comparative Examples 4 to 7)
The following compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions of Comparative Examples 4 to 7 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3 according to the preparation method described below. The numbers in Table 3 refer to weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation method
1) Phase A and phase B were separately heated to about 70-75 ° C, respectively.
2) Phase B was poured into phase A.
3) The mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer at 8000 rpm for 5 minutes.
4) Phase C was added to the mixture and stirred.
5) The mixture was cooled and D and E phases were added.

  About Comparative Examples 4-7, the hydration property was measured and evaluated in accordance with the following method.

Test method
1) The skin condition of the forearm of 24 female volunteers was measured with a Corneometer (registered trademark) (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).
2) The compositions of Comparative Examples 4-7 were applied to the forearm in an amount of ² mg / cm2.
3) One hour after application, the forearm skin condition was again measured with a Corneometer® (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).

  The results of the test are shown in Table 4.

  Table 4 clearly shows that the combination of phytosteryl / decyltetradecylmyristoylmethyl β-alanine and a compound having two hydroxy groups in the molecule and butylene glycol does not show improvement with respect to skin hydration. Yes.

(Comparative Examples 8 to 11)
The following compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions of Comparative Examples 8 to 11 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 5 according to the preparation method described below. The numbers in Table 5 refer to weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation method
1) Phase A and phase B were separately heated to about 70-75 ° C, respectively.
2) Pour B phase into A phase.
3) The mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer at 8000 rpm for 5 minutes.
4) Phase C was added to the mixture and stirred.
5) The mixture was cooled and D and E phases were added.

  About Comparative Examples 8-11, the hydration property was measured and evaluated in accordance with the following method.

Test method
1) The skin condition of the forearm of 24 female volunteers was measured with a Corneometer (registered trademark) (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).
2) The compositions of Comparative Examples 8-11 were applied to the forearm in an amount of ² mg / cm2.
3) One hour after application, the forearm skin condition was again measured with a Corneometer® (CM 825, Courage + Khazaka, Germany).

  The results of the test are shown in Table 6.

  Table 6 clearly shows that the combination of phytosteryl / decyltetradecylmyristoylmethyl β-alanine and a compound having two hydroxy groups in the molecule and dipropylene glycol does not show improvement with respect to skin hydration. ing.

  Note that Comparative Example 1 corresponds to Comparative Examples 5 and 9, and Comparative Example 2 corresponds to Comparative Examples 6 and 10.

Claims (1)

(A) Formula (I):

[Where
R ¹ represents a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 21 carbon atoms;
R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted branched or straight chain alkyl group having 1 to 34 carbon atoms excluding the behenyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted branched group having 2 to 34 carbon atoms. A linear or linear alkenyl group, or a substituted or unsubstituted steryl group;
n represents an integer from 0 to 2]
At least one N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid ester represented by:
(B) A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion other than a water-in-oil type, comprising at least one polyhydric alcohol having 3 or more hydroxy groups.