JP2007099649A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic composition excellent in moisturizing effect and feeling when applied, generating no odor with time, and keeping a stable emulsified condition over a long period when made into an emulsion preparation. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic composition contains 0.01-50 wt.% of (A) a polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearate of the formula (I) (wherein, Z is a polyhydric ≥5C alcohol residue having ≥5 hydroxy groups and (a) is ≥5; EO is an oxyethylene group; PO is an oxypropylene group; R is H or an isostearic acid residue, being 15-85% in esterification degree; and m and n are the average addition numbers of moles of oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups respectively, meeting the relationships: 1≤(m+n)≤10 and m/(m+n)≥0.8). <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that is excellent in moisturizing effect and feeling of use, does not generate odor over time, and retains a stable emulsion over a long period of time when an emulsion preparation is prepared.

Cosmetics can also be used as moisturizers to moisturize skin and hair, emollients such as hydrocarbons and esters, moisturizers, and cleaning ingredients to give a superior feel such as smoothness and moisturization. Various anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic surfactants that function, and powders, vitamins, UV absorbers, water-soluble polymer substances, sequestering metals as necessary Agents, thickeners, preservatives, dyes, pigments, fragrances and the like are blended.
Also, for example, emulsion cosmetics composed of these ingredients and water include water-in-oil type (W / O type), oil-in-water type (O / W type), or composite emulsion type (W / O / W type). Although there are cosmetics, an appropriate surfactant, an emulsifier or a solubilizer is an indispensable component in order to stably maintain uniformity without separating and dispersing various blended components.

Widely used as emulsifiers or solubilizers for cosmetics are nonionic surfactants having high stability in both acidic and alkaline systems. Among them, fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohol alkylene oxide derivatives are used. It is especially widely used because of its high emulsification and solubilization ability.
As the polyhydric alcohol alkylene oxide fatty acid ester emulsifier, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters such as polyoxyethylene sorbitol lauric acid ester, stearic acid ester and oleic acid ester (Patent Documents 1 and 5), Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan isostearic acid ester (Patent Document 2), or polyoxyethylene coconut oil fatty acid glycerin, polyoxyethylene oleic acid glycerin, polyoxyethylene stearic acid glycerin, polyoxyethylene isostearic acid Polyoxyethylene fatty acid glycerin such as glycerin (Patent Documents 3, 4, and 5), or polyethylene glycol monoisostearate, di Sosutearin acid esters, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols such as dioleate ester (Patent Document 6) have been proposed.

However, among these nonionic surfactants, the esters of oleic acid are inferior in the feeling of use and are likely to generate odor over time, and the lauric acid esters are inferior in the feeling of use such as skin irritation and a persistent feeling. . The stearic acid ester is not only inferior in handling but also a refreshing feeling is not obtained. In addition, diesters having a linear polyethylene glycol skeleton are inferior in emulsification and solubilizing ability, and a moisturizing effect cannot be obtained. Furthermore, a fatty acid ester of a polyhydric alcohol alkylene oxide derivative such that an ester having a glycerin skeleton does not provide a sufficient moisturizing effect, and an ester having a sorbitan skeleton tends to cause stickiness and does not provide a good feeling of use. Although it is a general-purpose emulsifier, a satisfactory one is not always obtained from the viewpoint of a cosmetic ingredient.
Japanese Patent No. 3575721 JP-A-8-301725 JP-A-8-92032 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2005-239487 JP-A-2005-97284 JP 2005-104854 A

  Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to find a nonionic surfactant that is excellent in emulsion stability over a long period of time and is suitable as a blending component for various preparations such as cosmetics, and by blending this surfactant. Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that has an excellent moisturizing effect and a feeling of use, does not generate an unpleasant odor over time, and is excellent in emulsion stability over a long period of time when the cosmetic is an emulsion system.

That is, the present invention
(1) A cosmetic composition comprising the following component A) in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the composition.
A) Polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearate represented by the formula (I)

(In the formula, Z is a polyhydric alcohol residue having 5 or more carbon atoms and 5 or more hydroxyl groups, a is 5 ≦ a, EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, and R is an isostearic acid residue. Alternatively, it is a hydrogen atom, and the esterification rate is 15 to 85%, m and n are average addition mole numbers of oxyethylene group and oxypropylene group, respectively, 1 ≦ m + n ≦ 10, m / (m + n) ≧ 0.8 Meet)
(2) The cosmetic composition according to (1), wherein in formula (I), Z is a sorbitol residue and n = 0.
(3) The following B) and C) are contained in the composition according to the above (1) or (2), containing B) 0.01 to 90% by weight and C) 0.01 to 30% by weight. Cosmetic composition.
B) Emollient C) Polyhydric alcohol (4) The cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (3), which is a skin care cosmetic composition.
(5) The cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the cosmetic composition is a makeup cosmetic composition.

The nonionic surfactant represented by the formula (I) has an excellent emulsifying or solubilizing ability, the formed emulsion is stable for a long time, and no unpleasant odor is generated over time. Therefore, it is particularly suitable for use in cosmetics. Cosmetics formulated with this nonionic surfactant have an excellent moisturizing effect and good feeling of use, with no unpleasant odor occurring over time, and in particular, formulated with this nonionic surfactant. When the cosmetic is an emulsion system such as an O / W type, it is extremely useful in that a stable emulsion system is maintained over a long period of time.
Furthermore, when removing cosmetics, the nonionic surfactant of the present invention is well-suited with oily components and sebum in cosmetics, so it can be easily washed away with water without wiping before washing, You can get a refreshing feel without stickiness.

  The nonionic surfactant of the present invention has the following formula (I),

Is a polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearic acid ester represented by
In the formula, Z means a polyhydric alcohol residue having 5 or more carbon atoms and 5 or more hydroxyl groups. The preferable range of the number of carbon atoms is 5 to 12, and the preferable range of the number of hydroxyl groups is 5 to 12. Specifically, for example, residues of polyhydric alcohols such as pentitol, xylitol, mannitol, sorbitol, inositol, and galactitol Among them, a sorbitol residue is preferable.
When the number of carbon atoms or hydroxyl groups is less than 5, such as linear polyethylene glycol, glycerin, or sorbitan, sufficient moisturizing effect cannot be obtained when blended in cosmetics, and oxygen atoms other than hydroxyl groups such as glucose and sucrose Hydrocarbons containing are easy to cause stickiness and are not preferred.
EO is an oxyethylene group and PO is an oxypropylene group.
R is an isostearic acid residue or a hydrogen atom. In the present invention, isostearic acid means a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms having a branched structure at an arbitrary position of the main chain, such as 16-methylheptadecanoic acid, 2-heptylundecanoic acid, 2-octyldecanoic acid, and R represents these fatty acids. Among them, it may be derived from one or two or more fatty acids.
If R is changed to a residue of fatty acids other than isostearic acid, such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid, it will tend to cause stickiness and tightness when used in cosmetics. If it is not excellent and is changed to an oleic acid residue, it is not preferable because the odor is not stable over time.
The ratio of the number of hydroxyl groups esterified to the total hydroxyl groups of the polyhydric alcohol (esterification rate) is preferably about 15 to 85%, and preferably about 30 to 80%. If it is higher than 85%, the moisturizing effect tends to be inferior, and if it is lower than 15%, the solubilization performance tends to be inferior.

a satisfies 5 ≦ a, and preferably 5 ≦ a ≦ 12.
m and n are the average added moles of oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups per hydroxyl group, 1 ≦ m + n ≦ 10, m / (m + n) ≧ 0.8, preferably 1 ≦ m + n ≦ 8, and n = 0. Therefore, the total number of added moles of oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups in the polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearate of formula (I) is 5 or more.
When m + n is less than 1 or more than 10, the intended feeling of use cannot be obtained. Further, if m / (m + n) is less than 0.8, the oiliness becomes strong, which is not preferable in blending into an oil-in-water preparation. The oxyethylene group and the oxypropylene group may be added in a block shape or in a random shape.
The polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearic acid ester represented by the formula (I) can adjust the HLB depending on the number of added oxyalkylene groups and the esterification rate, and can be an emulsifier or a solubilizer depending on the HLB.

The polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearic acid ester of the formula (I) can be produced by a conventional method. For example, it can be obtained by an esterification reaction of a polyoxyalkylene polyol obtained by addition reaction of an alkylene oxide with a polyol and isostearic acid or an ester exchange reaction with an isostearic acid ester of a lower alcohol. Any HLB can be obtained by adjusting the ratio of esterification by changing the molar ratio of the feedstock.
As the reaction conditions such as reaction temperature, time, catalyst, etc., any known conditions in the addition reaction or transesterification reaction of polyol and alkylene oxide can be adopted.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition, with the nonionic surfactant represented by formula (I) as component A. contains. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the stability of the emulsion preparation is not always good, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, the feeling of use may be impaired, which is not preferable. The surfactant of formula (I) may be one or a mixture of two or more.

  The emollient which is the component B in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from hydrocarbons, synthetic triglycerides, fats and oils, synthetic ester oils, or long-chain monohydric alcohols. Examples of the hydrocarbon include petrolatum, squalane, squalene, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, paraffin wax, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polybutene, ceresin, mineral oil, and the like. Synthetic triglycerides include, for example, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid, palm oil fatty acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearin Examples thereof include triglycerides of higher fatty acids having 6 or more carbon atoms such as acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid. Examples of oils and fats include lanolin, candelillano wax, beeswax, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, olive oil, corn oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil , Jojoba oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, camellia oil, tea seed oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, safflower oil, kyounin oil, carnauba wax, beef tallow, pork fat and the like. Synthetic ester oils include, for example, diethyl sebacate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isocetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl isostearate, Stearyl, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, hexyldecyl neodecanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cholesteryl stearate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isostearyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, lauric acid Hexyl, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, decyl oleate, isostearyl pivalate, isostearin Isopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, didecanoate neopentyl glycol, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, etc. myristyl lactate and the like. Furthermore, examples of the long-chain monohydric alcohol include long-chain monohydric alcohols having 14 or more carbon atoms such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, and cholesterol. These may be used, but one or more of these may be used. Of these, hydrocarbons or oils are preferred.

  The blending amount of the emollient with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition is 0.01 to 90% by weight, preferably 1 to 80% by weight. More preferably, if it is less than 5 to 50% by weight or less than 0.01% by weight, good usability and moisturizing effect cannot be obtained, and if it is more than 90% by weight, a stable emulsion may not be obtained.

The polyhydric alcohol which is the C component in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a water-soluble compound having two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule. For example, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 3-methyl-1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, trehalose, glucose, methyl glucoside, alkyl glucoside and These alkylene oxide adducts can be mentioned. Dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, methyl glucoside, and ethylene oxide adducts thereof are preferable. Moreover, you may use these 1 type, or 2 or more types.
The blending amount of the polyhydric alcohol with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic composition is 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, a good moisturizing effect cannot be obtained, and if it is more than 30% by weight, a stable emulsion may not be obtained, which is not preferable.

  In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, if necessary, various other types generally used for cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc. in addition to the above-mentioned components A, B, and C, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Ingredients, that is, various oily components other than those described above, moisturizers other than polyhydric alcohols, thickeners, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants other than formula (I) , Sequestering agents, ethanol, water-soluble polymer substances, UV absorbers, bactericides, anti-inflammatory agents, vitamins, whitening agents, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, organic and inorganic dyes or pigments, etc. Can be blended.

  Among them, moisturizers other than polyhydric alcohols include amino acids such as aspartic acid, alginic acid, alanine, glycine, cystine, cysteine, serine, arginine, lysine, urea, lactate, ribonucleic acid salt, mucopolysaccharide, hyaluron. Acid salt, pyrrolidone carboxylate, chondroitin sulfate, collagen, chitosan, plant extract such as Ashitaba, Artea, Aloe, Karin, Raspberry, Cucumber, Quince Seed, Zeniaoi, Loofah, Lily, Apple, Seaweed, Oyster extract, Placenta extract, Royal jelly, lactoferrin, and the like can be mentioned, and one or more of these can be combined in an appropriate combination.

Examples of the thickener include carrageenan, alginic acid or a salt thereof, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, and the like, and one or more of these are combined in an appropriate combination. can do.
As for other compounding components, appropriate components can be used in appropriate amounts depending on the type or function of the intended cosmetic.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes, for example, skin care cosmetics such as lotion, milky lotion, cream, massage material, cosmetic liquid, lip balm, pack, sunscreen, etc .; makeup base, foundation, blusher, lipstick, eye shadow, Makeup cosmetics such as eyeliner and mascara; Nail care cosmetics such as manicure, pedicure, and neutralizing liquid; Hair care cosmetics such as hair lotion, hair cream, tonic, hair nourishing and hair restorer, rinse, treatment, and coloring agent Body care cosmetics such as body painting agents and antiperspirants; forms such as fragrance cosmetics can be selected as appropriate, and their dosage forms are liquid, emulsion, solid, paste, gel, etc. Either is acceptable.
Each cosmetic composition can be produced by a conventional method.

Hereinafter, examples and comparative examples will be described in more detail, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.
In the component A (A ′) used in each example, the number of added moles of polyoxyethylene (POE) indicates the total number of moles added in the compound.

<Synthesis example> Synthesis example of tetraisostearic acid POE (30) sorbitol>
182 g of sorbitol and 4.5 g of potassium hydroxide as a catalyst were charged into an autoclave, the air in the autoclave was replaced with dry nitrogen, and the catalyst was completely dissolved at 140 ° C. with stirring. Next, 1320 g of ethylene oxide was dropped with a dropping device and stirred for 2 hours. Thereafter, the reaction composition was taken out from the autoclave and neutralized with phosphoric acid to obtain polyoxyethylene (30) sorbitol. The hydroxyl value was 225.
1500 g of the obtained polyoxyethylene (30) sorbitol and 1140 g of isostearic acid (EMERSOL874; manufactured by Cognis) were reacted at 200 ° C. for 6 hours to obtain tetraisostearic acid POE (30) sorbitol. Since the hydroxyl value was 45, the esterification rate was 66.7%.
According to the synthesis example, the polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearic acid ester of the present invention and a comparative substance were synthesized.

Cosmetics 1-7 of the present invention, Comparative Examples 1-11
As shown in Table 1, an emulsion was prepared by selecting the compound of claim 1 as the A component, the comparative substance, the B component, and the C component as the A ′ component.
Oil phase:
(A) and (A ') component See Table 1 (B) Component See Table 1 Fragrance 0.1 wt%
Preservative 0.1% by weight
Water phase:
(C) component See Table 1. Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1% by weight
Water balance

<Emulsion preparation method>
The oil phase part and the nonionic surfactant or comparative substance of the present invention were heated to 70 ° C. and dissolved uniformly, and then the aqueous phase part was added at the same temperature while stirring.

<Evaluation method and evaluation criteria>
(1) Stability of emulsion The emulsified state after storage for 1 week at 50 ° C was measured visually according to the following criteria. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
◎: Emulsion is fine and stable ○: Stable state △: Slightly non-uniform state ×: Slightly separated state From the average value, it was judged that ◯ or more was excellent in stability.

(2) Feeling of use About the feeling of use, sensory evaluation was performed by a special panel of 20 men and women. After washing the upper arm with soap, the feel during application of the prepared emulsion was evaluated based on the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
5: Feels very good and feels very light 4: Feels well and feels light 3: Feels slightly stretched and slightly catches 2: Feels so slow and heavy 1: Feels very stretchy From the average value, 3.5 or more was judged to be excellent in touch.

(3) Moisturizing effect The sensory evaluation was conducted on the moisturizing effect by a special panel of 20 men and women. Subsequent to the evaluation of the above-mentioned feeling of use, the moisturizing feeling 1 hour after application was evaluated based on the following evaluation point criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
5: There is no bulkiness and it is sufficiently moisturized 4: There is no bulkiness and it is moistened 3: There is a little bulkiness and there is little moisture 2: There is bulkiness and there is no moisture State 1: A state in which the texture is severe and moisture is not sufficient. An average value of 3.5 or more was evaluated as having an excellent moisturizing effect.

(4) Stability of odor over time It was allowed to stand at 40 ° C. for 3 months, and the stability of the odor was evaluated according to the following criteria. From sensory evaluation of 10 persons, it was evaluated that ○ or more was excellent in stability over time.
A: 8 out of 10 people evaluated that there was no deterioration odor.
○: Among 10 people, 6 to 7 people evaluated that there was no deterioration odor.
Δ: Out of 10 people, 3 to 5 people evaluated that there was no deterioration odor.
X: Evaluated that 2 or less of 10 persons do not have a deterioration odor.

  From the experimental results, the preparation using the nonionic surfactant of the present invention satisfied all the performances of the cleaning effect, the feeling of use, the moisturizing effect, and the odor stability over time, but the preparation of the comparative example, that is, A Fatty acids other than isostearic acid in the components (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), POE having a total number of added moles less than 5 (Comparative Example 8), polyhydric alcohol having oxygen atoms other than hydroxyl groups in the molecule ( Comparative Examples 3 and 4), polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester type (Comparative Example 5), polyhydric alcohol having 3 carbon atoms (Comparative Examples 6, 7, and 9), and the blending amount of the A component is 50 wt. It was clarified that those exceeding 10% (Comparative Examples 10 and 11) do not satisfy all of these performances.

Claims (5)

A cosmetic composition comprising the following component A) in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the composition.
A) Polyoxyalkylene polyol isostearate represented by the formula (I)

(In the formula, Z is a polyhydric alcohol residue having 5 or more carbon atoms and 5 or more hydroxyl groups, a is 5 ≦ a, EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, and R is an isostearic acid residue. Alternatively, it is a hydrogen atom, and the esterification rate is 15 to 85%, m and n are average addition mole numbers of oxyethylene group and oxypropylene group, respectively, 1 ≦ m + n ≦ 10, m / (m + n) ≧ 0.8 Meet)   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I), Z is a sorbitol residue and n = 0. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein B) and C) below are contained in B) 0.01 to 90% by weight and C) 0.01 to 30% by weight based on the total amount of the composition.
B) Emollient C) Polyhydric alcohol   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a skin care cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a makeup cosmetic composition.