JP2013107887A - Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic and skin care method - Google Patents
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic and skin care method Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2013107887A JP2013107887A JP2012254031A JP2012254031A JP2013107887A JP 2013107887 A JP2013107887 A JP 2013107887A JP 2012254031 A JP2012254031 A JP 2012254031A JP 2012254031 A JP2012254031 A JP 2012254031A JP 2013107887 A JP2013107887 A JP 2013107887A
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- Prior art keywords
- water
- component
- mass
- oil
- emulsified cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 10
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 title abstract description 4
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- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 41
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- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 6
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- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 9
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- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[oxo(trimethylsilylperoxy)silyl]peroxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)OO[Si](=O)OO[Si](C)(C)C UUJLHYCIMQOUKC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002383 tung oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Abstract
Description
本発明は、油中水型乳化化粧料及びスキンケア方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic and a skin care method.
人々の日常生活において、太陽の紫外線、自動車からの排気、工場等による空気の汚染、周りの人の喫煙、メーキャップなどの外界刺激が原因で、肌は常にダメージを受け続けている。本発明において、これらの外界刺激から肌を守る効果を隔離効果と定義する。
これまで、太陽の紫外線や、自動車からの排気、工場等からの粉塵、タバコの煙などの刺激から皮膚を守る化粧料の研究について行なわれている。これらの中で皮膚表面に皮膜を作ることで、刺激物質の付着、浸透を抑制するものが検討されている(特許文献1〜4)。
In people's daily lives, the skin continues to be damaged due to external ultraviolet rays such as the sun's ultraviolet rays, exhaust from automobiles, air pollution caused by factories, smoking by other people, and makeup. In the present invention, the effect of protecting the skin from these external stimuli is defined as an isolation effect.
So far, research has been conducted on cosmetics that protect the skin from irritation such as the sun's ultraviolet rays, exhaust from automobiles, dust from factories, and cigarette smoke. Among these, what suppresses adhesion and penetration of stimulating substances by making a film on the skin surface has been studied (Patent Documents 1 to 4).
特許文献1には、べたつきがなく、使用感がよく、安定性が良好な化粧料として、シリコーンエラストマーと高分子量シリコーンを組み合わせた高内水相油中水型乳化化粧料が提案されている。しかし、当該化粧料は、高分子シリコーンを使用しているため、塗布時に、伸ばしにくく、塗布後、皮膜残留感があり、優れた感触を有する皮膜が得られず、しかも、汚れが付着しやすく、保存安定性も十分ではない。 Patent Document 1 proposes a high internal water phase water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic combining a silicone elastomer and a high molecular weight silicone as a cosmetic having no stickiness, good usability, and good stability. However, since the cosmetic uses a high molecular silicone, it is difficult to stretch when applied, there is a film residual feeling after application, a film with excellent feel cannot be obtained, and dirt is likely to adhere. Also, storage stability is not enough.
特許文献2には、耐水性、耐油性に優れ、肌へののりが良く、化粧効果の持続性に優れた化粧料とし、シリコーンエラストマー、有機シリコーン樹脂及びアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体を組み合わせた油中水型下地化粧料が提案されている。
また、特許文献3には、化粧持ち、化粧持続性に優れ、使用性、経時安定性にも優れた化粧料とし、シリコーンエラストマー、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体を組み合わせた油中水型化粧料が提案されている。しかし、これらの化粧料は、塗布後、強い皮膜残留感により感触が重く、さっぱりした使用感が得られない。
Patent Document 2 includes a combination of a silicone elastomer, an organic silicone resin, and an acrylic-silicone graft copolymer as a cosmetic with excellent water resistance and oil resistance, good adhesion to the skin, and excellent makeup effect durability. Water-in-oil base cosmetics have been proposed.
Patent Document 3 discloses a water-in-oil makeup that combines a silicone elastomer and an acrylic-silicone-based graft copolymer as a cosmetic material that has a long-lasting makeup, excellent makeup durability, excellent usability and stability over time. Fees have been proposed. However, these cosmetics have a heavy feeling due to a strong film residual feeling after application, and a refreshing feeling of use cannot be obtained.
特許文献4には、耐水性並びにサンケア効果の持続性に優れ、べたつきやぬるつきが抑制された良好な使用感を有し、安定性に優れる化粧料とし、シリコーンエラストマー、油溶性紫外線吸収剤、水溶性高分子を組み合わせた水中油型サンケア化粧料が提案されている。しかしながら、この化粧料は水溶性高分子を含有しているため、十分な撥水性が得られず、持続性も弱いため、外界刺激、特に太陽紫外線以外の刺激を隔離する効果が十分ではない。 Patent Document 4 discloses a cosmetic that has excellent water resistance and durability of suncare effect, has a good feeling of use with reduced stickiness and sliminess, and has excellent stability. Silicone elastomer, oil-soluble UV absorber, Oil-in-water sun care cosmetics that combine water-soluble polymers have been proposed. However, since this cosmetic contains a water-soluble polymer, sufficient water repellency cannot be obtained, and its persistence is weak. Therefore, the effect of isolating external stimuli, particularly stimuli other than solar ultraviolet rays, is not sufficient.
上述のように、いずれの従来技術においても、皮膜形成のために、ポリマーやシリコーン樹脂等を使うことが多いので、塗布時に、べたつきが生じ、塗布後の肌に皮膜感やつっぱり感などの違和感を生じるなどの問題があった。また、安定性、外界刺激への隔離効果及びさっぱり感を兼ねて理想的な効果を奏することができない。従って、これらの点について、より改善されたスキンケア化粧料の開発が望まれている。
本発明は、安定性、外界刺激への隔離効果及びさっぱり感に非常に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料に関する。
As described above, in any of the conventional techniques, a polymer or silicone resin is often used to form a film, so that stickiness occurs at the time of application, and the skin after application is uncomfortable, such as a film feeling or a feeling of tension. There was a problem such as. In addition, an ideal effect cannot be achieved by combining stability, an isolation effect against external stimuli, and a refreshing feeling. Therefore, development of the skin care cosmetics which improved more about these points is desired.
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is extremely excellent in stability, an isolation effect against external stimuli, and a refreshing feeling.
発明者らは、特定のシリコーンエラストマーと特定の高重合ジメチルポリシロキサンと特定の低重合シリコーン油とエチルアルコールとを、特定の割合で組み合わせて使用すると、安定性、外界刺激への隔離効果、塗布時にのびが良く、塗布後は皮膜残留感がなく、さっぱり感に非常に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料が得られることを見出した。 The inventors use a specific silicone elastomer, a specific highly polymerized dimethylpolysiloxane, a specific low polymerized silicone oil and ethyl alcohol in a specific ratio in combination, stability, isolation effect against external stimuli, application It has been found that a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic with good spreading at times, no film residual feeling after application, and a very refreshing feeling can be obtained.
本発明は、次の成分(A)〜(E):
(A)シリコーンエラストマー 0.5〜10質量%であって、
該シリコーンエラストマーは、下記一般式(a−1):
R1 aR2 bHcSiO(4-a-b-c)/2 (a−1)
及び/又は下記一般式(a−2):
R1 jHkSiO(4-j-k)/2 (a−2)
で表されるオルガノハイドロジェンポリシロキサンと、
下記一般式(a−3):
CmH2m-1O(C2H4O)p(C3H6O)qCmH2m-1 (a−3)
で表されるポリオキシアルキレン、及び/又は
下記一般式(a−4):
R1 dR3 eSiO(4-d-e)/2 (a−4)
で表されるオルガノポリシロキサンと
を付加重合させて得られ、そのうち、前記一般式(a−1)及び/又は前記一般式(a−3)で表される成分を必須成分とするシリコーンエラストマー、
(式中、R1 は同種又は異種の置換又は非置換の炭素数1〜18の夫々一価のアルキル基若しくはアリール基、アラルキル基又はハロゲン化炭化水素基であり、R2は、一般式−CnH2nO(C2H4O)f(C3H6O)gR4で示される有機基、R3は末端ビニル基を有する炭素数2〜10の一価の炭化水素基、R4 は水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜10の飽和有機基又はR5−(CO)−で示される基、R5は炭素数1〜5の飽和有機基であり、
a、b、c、d、e、j及びkはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1、0.001≦c≦1、1.0≦d≦3.0、0.001≦e≦1.5、1.0≦j≦3.0及び0.001≦k≦1.5であり、f及びpは2〜200の整数、g及びqは0〜200の整数、f+gは3〜200、p+qは3〜200であり、m及びnは2〜6である)
(B)重合度が350以上1500以下であるジメチルポリシロキサン 0.2〜10質量%、
(C)重合度が1以上6以下であるジメチルポリシロキサン及び/又はデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 3〜28質量%、
(D)エチルアルコール 0.5〜25質量%、
(E)水
を含有する油中水型乳化化粧料に関する。
The present invention includes the following components (A) to (E):
(A) Silicone elastomer 0.5-10 mass%,
The silicone elastomer has the following general formula (a-1):
R 1 a R 2 b H c SiO (4-abc) / 2 (a-1)
And / or the following general formula (a-2):
R 1 j H k SiO (4-jk) / 2 (a-2)
An organohydrogenpolysiloxane represented by:
The following general formula (a-3):
C m H 2m-1 O ( C 2 H 4 O) p (C 3 H 6 O) q C m H 2m-1 (a-3)
And / or the following general formula (a-4):
R 1 d R 3 e SiO (4-de) / 2 (a-4)
A silicone elastomer having the component represented by the general formula (a-1) and / or the general formula (a-3) as an essential component, which is obtained by addition polymerization with an organopolysiloxane represented by the formula:
(In the formula, R 1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group or aryl group each monovalent 1-18 carbon atoms, an aralkyl group or a halogenated hydrocarbon group having same or different, R 2 is Formula - C n H 2n O (C 2 H 4 O) f (C 3 H 6 O) g R an organic group represented by 4, R 3 is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms having a terminal vinyl group, R 4 is a hydrogen atom, a saturated organic group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a group represented by R 5 — (CO) —, R 5 is a saturated organic group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
a, b, c, d, e, j and k are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1, 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1, 1.0 ≦ d ≦ 3.0, respectively. 0.001 ≦ e ≦ 1.5, 1.0 ≦ j ≦ 3.0 and 0.001 ≦ k ≦ 1.5, f and p are integers of 2 to 200, and g and q are 0 to 200. ), F + g is 3 to 200, p + q is 3 to 200, and m and n are 2 to 6)
(B) 0.2-10 mass% of dimethylpolysiloxane whose degree of polymerization is 350 or more and 1500 or less,
(C) dimethylpolysiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane having a degree of polymerization of 1 or more and 6 or less, 3 to 28% by mass,
(D) 0.5-25% by mass of ethyl alcohol,
(E) It relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing water.
また、本発明は、当該油中水型乳化化粧料を肌に使用して保持するスキンケア方法に関する。 The present invention also relates to a skin care method for using and holding the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic on the skin.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、保存安定性、外界刺激への隔離効果に優れ、また、塗布時にのびが良く、塗布後は皮膜残留感がなく良好な感触で、さっぱり感に優れたものである。 The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in storage stability and the effect of sequestration to external stimuli, and also has good spreading at the time of application, and after application, there is no residual film feeling and is excellent in touch and refreshing. It is a thing.
以下、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に用いる各成分を、それぞれ詳しく説明する。 Hereinafter, each component used for the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail.
成分(A):
成分(A)は、前記のようなシリコーンエラストマーである。
ここで、R1は、同種又は異種の置換又は非置換の炭素数1〜18の夫々一価のアルキル基が好ましく、メチル基、ラウリル基が好ましい。前記一般式(a−3)において、mは3〜6が好ましく、3がより好ましい。また、pは10〜15が好ましく、qは0が好ましい。
成分(A)は、後述する成分(B)とともに、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料を皮膚に塗布した際にのびが良く、塗布乾燥後は、皮膜残留感が抑制され、さっぱりとしてべたつかない皮膜を形成する働きを有する。この結果、外界からの刺激を遮断でき、高い隔離効果を発揮することができる。更に、成分(A)は、自己乳化能を有し、油中水型乳化化粧料の乳化を安定化することができる。
Component (A):
Component (A) is a silicone elastomer as described above.
Here, R 1 is preferably the same or different substituted or unsubstituted monovalent alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group or a lauryl group. In the general formula (a-3), m is preferably 3 to 6, and more preferably 3. Further, p is preferably 10 to 15, and q is preferably 0.
The component (A), together with the component (B) described later, spreads well when the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is applied to the skin. It has the function of forming a non-coated film. As a result, stimulation from the outside world can be blocked and a high isolation effect can be exhibited. Furthermore, the component (A) has a self-emulsifying ability and can stabilize the emulsification of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
具体的には、成分(A)としては、(ジメチコン/(PEG−10/15))クロスポリマー、(PEG−15/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー、(PEG−10/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマーなどが挙げられる。これらは通常、他の油剤と混合されて市販されている。例えば、KSG−210、KSG−240、KSG−310、KSG−320、KSG−330、KSG−340(KSGシリーズ、信越化学工業社製)などがある。
ここで、「KSG−210」は、(ジメチコン/(PEG−10/15))クロスポリマー25%とジメチコン75%の混合物であり、「KSG−240」は、(ジメチコン/(PEG−10/15))クロスポリマー20%とシクロペンタシロキサン80%の混合物であり、「KSG−310」は、(PEG−15/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー30%とミネラルオイル70%の混合物であり、「KSG−320」は、(PEG−15/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー25%とイソドデカン75%の混合物であり、「KSG−330」は、(PEG−15/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー20%とトリエチルヘキサノイン80%の混合物であり、「KSG−340」は、(PEG−10/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマーと(PEG−15/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー30%とスクワラン70%の混合物である。
Specifically, examples of the component (A) include (dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15)) crosspolymer, (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer, and the like. It is done. These are usually marketed mixed with other oils. For example, there are KSG-210, KSG-240, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340 (KSG series, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) and the like.
Here, “KSG-210” is a mixture of 25% (dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15)) crosspolymer and 75% dimethicone, and “KSG-240” is (dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15). )) A mixture of 20% cross polymer and 80% cyclopentasiloxane, “KSG-310” is a mixture of 30% (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) cross polymer and 70% mineral oil, “KSG-320 "Is a mixture of 25% (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer and 75% isododecane, and" KSG-330 "is a mixture of 20% (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) cross polymer and 80% triethylhexanoin. “KSG-340” is (PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone) cloth Rimmer and (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) is a mixture of 30% crosspolymer and squalane 70%.
成分(A)は、1種又は2種以上の複数のものを混合して使用することができる。さっぱり感及び保存安定性の観点から、成分(A)の含有量は、全組成中に0.5質量%以上であり、好ましくは0.625質量%以上、より好ましくは0.75質量%以上であり、10質量%以下であり、好ましくは5質量%以下、より好ましくは2.5質量%以下である。また、成分(A)の含有量は、全組成中に0.5〜10質量%であり、0.625〜5質量%が好ましく、0.75〜2.5質量%がより好ましい。 Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoint of a refreshing feeling and storage stability, the content of the component (A) is 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 0.625% by mass or more, more preferably 0.75% by mass or more in the total composition. It is 10 mass% or less, preferably 5 mass% or less, more preferably 2.5 mass% or less. Moreover, content of a component (A) is 0.5-10 mass% in the whole composition, 0.625-5 mass% is preferable, and 0.75-2.5 mass% is more preferable.
成分(B):
成分(B)は、重合度が350以上1500以下であるジメチルポリシロキサンである。
成分(B)は、成分(A)と共に皮膚表面に柔軟な皮膜を形成し、塗布乾燥後の自然な皮膜を形成するのに重要である。この結果、外界刺激への隔離効果の強化に役立つ。
皮膜形成及び隔離効果の観点から、成分(B)のジメチルポリシロキサンの重合度は、350以上であり、600以上が好ましい。また、重合度は1500以下であり、800以下が好ましい。
なお、ここで、重合度とは、ジメチルポリシロキサンの分子量を74で割ったものである。
Ingredient (B):
Component (B) is dimethylpolysiloxane having a degree of polymerization of 350 or more and 1500 or less.
Component (B) is important for forming a flexible film on the skin surface together with component (A) and forming a natural film after application and drying. As a result, it helps to enhance the isolation effect against external stimuli.
From the viewpoint of film formation and isolation effect, the polymerization degree of the dimethylpolysiloxane of the component (B) is 350 or more, preferably 600 or more. The degree of polymerization is 1500 or less, and preferably 800 or less.
Here, the degree of polymerization is the molecular weight of dimethylpolysiloxane divided by 74.
成分(B)の重合度が350以上1500以下であるジメチルポリシロキサンとして、具体例的には、KF−96A−1000cs、KF−96A−5000cs、KF−96A−10000cs、KF−96A−100000cs(信越化学工業社製)などの市販品が挙げられる。
成分(B)は、1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、隔離効果及びさっぱり感の観点から、含有量は、全組成中に0.2質量%以上であり、好ましくは0.5質量%以上、より好ましくは1質量以上%であり、10質量%以下であり、好ましくは5質量%以下、より好ましくは3質量%以下である。また、成分(B)の含有量は、全組成中に0.2〜10質量%であり、0.5〜5質量%が好ましく、1〜3質量%がより好ましい。
Specific examples of the dimethylpolysiloxane having a polymerization degree of the component (B) of 350 or more and 1500 or less include KF-96A-1000cs, KF-96A-5000cs, KF-96A-10000cs, KF-96A-100000cs (Shin-Etsu). Commercial products such as Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.).
Component (B) can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and from the standpoint of sequestration effect and refreshing feeling, the content is 0.2% by mass or more in the total composition, preferably 0.8. 5 mass% or more, more preferably 1 mass% or more, 10 mass% or less, preferably 5 mass% or less, more preferably 3 mass% or less. Moreover, content of a component (B) is 0.2-10 mass% in the whole composition, 0.5-5 mass% is preferable, and 1-3 mass% is more preferable.
成分(C):
成分(C)は、重合度が1以上6以下のジメチルポリシロキサン及び/又はデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサンである。
成分(C)は、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料において、成分(A)と成分(B)の可塑剤として働き、成分(A)と成分(B)の混合性を高めると共に、塗布した際にのびが良く、肌表面に均一に拡散できる。この結果、より優れた皮膜を形成し、外界刺激への隔離効果は一層向上される。
成分(C)の重合度が1以上6以下のジメチルポリシロキサンとして、具体的には、ジメチルポリシロキサン(粘度1cs)、ジメチルポリシロキサン(粘度2cs)等が挙げられ、さらに、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン等が挙げられる。
Component (C):
Component (C) is dimethylpolysiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 6.
Component (C) acts as a plasticizer for component (A) and component (B) in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, improves the mixing of component (A) and component (B), and is applied. It spreads well and spreads evenly over the skin surface. As a result, a better film is formed, and the isolation effect against external stimuli is further improved.
Specific examples of the dimethylpolysiloxane having a degree of polymerization of component (C) of 1 or more and 6 or less include dimethylpolysiloxane (viscosity 1 cs), dimethylpolysiloxane (viscosity 2 cs), and the like, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Etc.
成分(C)は、1種又は2種以上の複数のものを混合して使用することができる。
塗布時の伸ばしやすさ及び保存安定性から考えると、成分(C)の含有量は、全組成中に3質量%以上であり、好ましくは8質量%以上であり、28質量%以下であり、好ましくは18質量%以下、より好ましくは14質量%以下である。また、成分(C)の含有量は、全組成中に3〜28質量%であり、8〜18量%が好ましく、8〜14質量%がより好ましい。
Component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
Considering the easiness of extension at the time of application and storage stability, the content of the component (C) is 3% by mass or more, preferably 8% by mass or more, and 28% by mass or less in the total composition. Preferably it is 18 mass% or less, More preferably, it is 14 mass% or less. Moreover, content of a component (C) is 3-28 mass% in the whole composition, 8-18 mass% is preferable, and 8-14 mass% is more preferable.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料において、成分(A)の含有量と、成分(A)、成分(B)及び成分(C)の合計含有量との質量割合(A)/((A)+(B)+(C))は、乳化安定性、皮膜形成、のびの良さの観点から、0.03以上が好ましく、より好ましくは0.04以上、更に好ましくは0.06以上であり、0.27以下が好ましく、より好ましくは0.14以下である。 In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / ((A) of the content of the component (A) and the total content of the component (A), the component (B) and the component (C). ) + (B) + (C)) is preferably 0.03 or more, more preferably 0.04 or more, and still more preferably 0.06 or more, from the viewpoints of emulsion stability, film formation, and spreadability. 0.27 or less, more preferably 0.14 or less.
成分(D):
成分(D)はエチルアルコールである。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料において溶媒として機能し、塗布時ののびの良さに寄与し、系の保存安定性を向上できる。特に、後述の成分(H)の紫外線防御剤などの成分(A)、(B)と混ざり合わない油性成分が配合される場合、成分(D)により油の分離が抑えられる。
成分(D)の含有量は、保存安定性の観点から、全組成中に0.5質量%以上であり、好ましくは1質量%以上、より好ましくは3質量%以上であり、25質量%以下であり、好ましくは20質量%以下であり、より好ましくは15質量%以下である。また、成分(D)の含有量は、全組成中に0.5〜25量%であり、1〜20量%が好ましく、3〜15質量%がより好ましい。
Component (D):
Component (D) is ethyl alcohol. It functions as a solvent in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, contributes to good spreadability during application, and can improve the storage stability of the system. In particular, when an oily component that does not mix with the components (A) and (B) such as the ultraviolet protective agent of the component (H) described later is blended, the separation of the oil is suppressed by the component (D).
The content of component (D) is 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, and 25% by mass or less in the total composition from the viewpoint of storage stability. Preferably, it is 20 mass% or less, More preferably, it is 15 mass% or less. Moreover, content of a component (D) is 0.5-25 mass% in the whole composition, 1-20 mass% is preferable, and 3-15 mass% is more preferable.
成分(E):
成分(E)は水である。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、多量な水を化粧料中に安定的に含有することができる。この結果、塗布した際に皮膚表面にべたつきがなく軽い感触を与える。また、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、閉塞性の高い皮膜を形成することができるので、長時間を経ても皮膚に水を保持させることができ、塗布した後でも、持続的に皮膚にさっぱり感を与えることができる。
成分(E)の水の含有量は、さっぱり感及び保存安定性の観点から、全組成中に30質量%以上が好ましく、より好ましくは40質量%以上であり、更に好ましくは50質量%以上である。また、90質量%以下が好ましく、85質量%以下がより好ましい。
Ingredient (E):
Ingredient (E) is water. The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can stably contain a large amount of water in the cosmetic. As a result, when applied, the skin surface is not sticky and gives a light feel. In addition, since the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can form a highly occlusive film, water can be retained on the skin even after a long time, and even after application, it can be maintained continuously. A refreshing feeling can be given to the skin.
The water content of the component (E) is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, and still more preferably 50% by mass or more in the total composition from the viewpoint of a refreshing feeling and storage stability. is there. Moreover, 90 mass% or less is preferable, and 85 mass% or less is more preferable.
成分(F):
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、更に、(F)HLB8未満のシリコーン鎖を含む界面活性剤を含有することができる。
成分(F)は、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料の安定性の向上に寄与する。本発明の乳化化粧料を製造するに際し、乳化化粧料の粒子径を均一で細かくすることで、乳化化粧料の長期保存安定性向上を実現させるため、ホモミキサーによる攪拌を加える場合がある。成分(F)を含有する場合、ホモミキサーなど強いせん断力を加えても、分離が生じない。
油中水型の乳化を安定化できるように、成分(F)の界面活性剤はHLBが8未満のものが好ましく、より好ましくはHLB3〜5である。
Ingredient (F):
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (F) a surfactant containing a silicone chain of less than HLB8.
The component (F) contributes to the improvement of the stability of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. In producing the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, stirring by a homomixer may be added in order to realize long-term storage stability improvement of the emulsified cosmetic by making the particle size of the emulsified cosmetic uniform and fine. When the component (F) is contained, no separation occurs even when a strong shearing force such as a homomixer is applied.
In order to stabilize water-in-oil emulsification, the surfactant of component (F) preferably has an HLB of less than 8, more preferably HLB 3-5.
ここで、HLB(親水性―親油性のバランス<Hydrophilic−Lypophilic Balance>)は、界面活性剤の全分子量に占める親水基部分の分子量を示すものであり、下記の式により求められるものである。
HLB=7+11.7log(Mw/Mo)・・・(I)
式(I)において、Mwは親水性基部の分子量、Moは親油性基部の分子量をそれぞれ示す。
Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lypophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion in the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and is determined by the following formula.
HLB = 7 + 11.7 log (Mw / Mo) (I)
In the formula (I), Mw represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic base, and Mo represents the molecular weight of the lipophilic base.
本発明において、油相はシリコーンが主体であるので、成分(F)の界面活性剤はシリコーン系のものが好適に用いられる。具体例としては、PEG−3ジメチコン(HLB4.5)、PEG−10ジメチコン(HLB4.5)、PEG−12ジメチコン(HLB6.0)、PEG−9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン(HLB4.0)、ラウリルPEG−9ポリジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン(HLB3.0)等が挙げられる。これらのうち、好ましくは、PEG−3ジメチコン、PEG−10ジメチコン、PEG−12ジメチコンであり、より好ましくはPEG−10ジメチコンである。 In the present invention, since the oil phase is mainly composed of silicone, a silicone-based surfactant is preferably used as the component (F) surfactant. Specific examples include PEG-3 dimethicone (HLB4.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (HLB4.5), PEG-12 dimethicone (HLB6.0), PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (HLB4.0), lauryl. PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (HLB3.0) etc. are mentioned. Of these, PEG-3 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, and PEG-12 dimethicone are preferable, and PEG-10 dimethicone is more preferable.
成分(F)の界面活性剤は、1種又は2種以上の複数の界面活性剤を混合して使用することができる。成分(F)の含有量は、使用感及び調製時の安定性の観点から、全組成中に0.1質量%以上が好ましく、より好ましくは0.33質量%以上であり、更に好ましくは0.66質量%以上である。また、3質量%以下が好ましく、より好ましくは2.5質量%以下であり、更に好ましくは2質量%以下である。 The surfactant of component (F) can be used by mixing one or more surfactants. The content of the component (F) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.33% by mass or more, and still more preferably 0% in the total composition from the viewpoints of feeling during use and stability during preparation. .66% by mass or more. Moreover, 3 mass% or less is preferable, More preferably, it is 2.5 mass% or less, More preferably, it is 2 mass% or less.
成分(G):
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、更に、(G)無機塩類を含有することができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に、更に、成分(G)の無機塩類を含有することで、経時粘度変化を抑えることができる。
成分(G)の無機塩類の具体例としては、塩化ナトリウム、塩化カリウム、塩化カルシウム、塩化マグネシウム等の塩化物;硫酸ナトリウム、硫酸カリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、硫酸アルミニウム等の硫酸塩;炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸水素ナトリウム等の炭酸塩;水酸化カリウムなどが挙げられる。好ましくは塩化ナトリウム、塩化カルシウム、硫酸マグネシウム、水酸化カリウムであり、より好ましくは硫酸マグネシウムである。
成分(G)の無機塩類は、1種又は2種以上の複数のものを混合して使用することができる。成分(G)の含有量は、経時粘度変化率の観点から、全組成中に0.1質量%以上が好ましく、より好ましくは0.33質量%以上であり、更に好ましくは0.66以上である。また、3質量%以下が好ましく、より好ましくは2質量%以下である。
Ingredient (G):
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (G) inorganic salts. When the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention further contains an inorganic salt of component (G), the change in viscosity with time can be suppressed.
Specific examples of the inorganic salt of component (G) include chlorides such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride and magnesium chloride; sulfates such as sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate and aluminum sulfate; sodium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate Carbonates such as sodium; potassium hydroxide and the like. Sodium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate and potassium hydroxide are preferred, and magnesium sulfate is more preferred.
The inorganic salts of component (G) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. The content of the component (G) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.33% by mass or more, further preferably 0.66 or more, in the total composition from the viewpoint of the rate of change in viscosity with time. is there. Moreover, 3 mass% or less is preferable, More preferably, it is 2 mass% or less.
成分(H):
更に、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、(H)紫外線防御剤を含有することができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に、更に、成分(H)の紫外線防御剤を含有することで、前記成分(A)、(B)及び(C)により構成される皮膜形成において、成分(H)の紫外線防御効果が更に高められる。
成分(H)の紫外線防御剤は、紫外線吸収剤と紫外線散乱剤を含む。
Ingredient (H):
Furthermore, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can contain (H) a UV protection agent. In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, by further containing the ultraviolet protective agent of component (H), in the formation of a film composed of the components (A), (B) and (C), the component The ultraviolet protection effect of (H) is further enhanced.
The ultraviolet protective agent of component (H) includes an ultraviolet absorber and an ultraviolet scattering agent.
紫外線吸収剤の具体例としては、パラメトキシケイ皮酸ベンジル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エトキシエチル、ジパラメトキシケイ皮酸モノ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、パラメトキシケイ皮酸イソプロピル・ジイソプロピルケイ皮酸エステル混合物等のケイ皮酸系紫外線吸収剤、ヒドロキメトキシベンゾフェノン、パラアミノ安息香酸、パラアミノ安息香酸エチル、パラアミノ安息香酸グリセリル、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸アミル、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸オクチル、4−[N,N−ジ(2−ヒドロキシプロピル)アミノ]安息香酸エチル、2−[4−(ジエチルアミノ)−2−ヒドロキシベンゾイル]安息香酸ヘキシル等の安息香酸エステル系紫外線吸収剤、サリチル酸エチレングリコール、サリチル酸フェニル、サリチル酸オクチル、サリチル酸ベンジル、サリチル酸p−tert−ブチルフェニル、サリチル酸ホモメンチル等のサリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤、2,4,6−トリアニリノ−p−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジン等のトリアジン系紫外線吸収剤等の油溶性の有機紫外線吸収剤が挙げられる。 Specific examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl paramethoxycinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoate diparamethoxycinnamate, Cinnamic acid-based UV absorbers such as isopropyl paramethoxycinnamate and diisopropyl cinnamate ester, hydroxymethoxybenzophenone, paraaminobenzoic acid, ethyl paraaminobenzoate, glyceryl paraaminobenzoate, paradimethylaminoamyl amyl, paradimethyl Benzoic acid ester UV absorption such as octyl aminobenzoate, ethyl 4- [N, N-di (2-hydroxypropyl) amino] benzoate, hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate Agent, ethylene glycol salicylate , Salicylic acid UV absorbers such as phenyl, salicylate, octyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-tert-butylphenyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-p- (carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'- And oil-soluble organic ultraviolet absorbers such as triazine ultraviolet absorbers such as (oxy) -1,3,5-triazine.
紫外線散乱剤の具体例としては、低次酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化セリウム等の金属酸化物、水酸化鉄等の金属水酸化物、板状酸化鉄、アルミニウムフレーク等の金属フレーク類、炭化珪素等のセラミック類等の粉末が挙げられる。これらの粉末は、従来公知の表面処理、例えば、フッ素化合物処理(パーフルオロアルキルリン酸エステル処理やパーフルオロアルキルシラン処理、パーフルオロポリエーテル処理、フルオロシリコーン処理、フッ素化シリコーン樹脂処理が好ましい)、シリコーン処理(メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン処理、ジメチルポリシロキサン処理、気相法テトラメチルテトラハイドロジェンシクロテトラシロキサン処理が好ましい)、シリコーン樹脂処理(トリメチルシロキシケイ酸処理が好ましい)、ペンダント処理(気相法シリコーン処理後にアルキル鎖等を付加する方法)、シランカップリング剤、チタンカップリング剤処理、シラン処理(アルキルシランやアルキルシラザン処理が好ましい)、油剤処理、N−アシル化リジン処理、ポリアクリル酸処理、金属石鹸処理(ステアリン酸やミリスチン酸塩が好ましい)、アクリル樹脂処理、金属酸化物処理等で表面処理が行ってあることが好ましく、更に好ましくはこれらの処理を複数組み合わせて用いることが好ましい。例えば、微粒子酸化チタン表面をシランやアルミナ等の金属酸化物で被覆した後、アルキルシランで表面処理すること等が挙げられる。また、これらの紫外線防御効果を有する粉体は、特に有機珪素化合物で撥水化処理されていることが好ましい。有機珪素化合物としては、上記処理剤の内、シランカップリング剤、シリコーン樹脂等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of ultraviolet scattering agents include metal oxides such as low-order titanium oxide, zinc oxide and cerium oxide, metal hydroxides such as iron hydroxide, metal flakes such as plate-like iron oxide and aluminum flakes, silicon carbide And powders of ceramics and the like. These powders are conventionally known surface treatments, for example, fluorine compound treatment (perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment or perfluoroalkylsilane treatment, perfluoropolyether treatment, fluorosilicone treatment, fluorinated silicone resin treatment is preferred), Silicone treatment (methylhydrogenpolysiloxane treatment, dimethylpolysiloxane treatment, vapor phase tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane treatment is preferred), silicone resin treatment (trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment is preferred), pendant treatment (vapor phase method) A method of adding an alkyl chain or the like after the silicone treatment), a silane coupling agent, a titanium coupling agent treatment, a silane treatment (preferably an alkylsilane or an alkylsilazane treatment), an oil agent treatment, an N-acylated lysine treatment, It is preferable that the surface treatment is carried out by reacrylic acid treatment, metal soap treatment (preferably stearic acid or myristic acid salt), acrylic resin treatment, metal oxide treatment, etc., and more preferably these treatments are used in combination. Is preferred. For example, the surface of fine particle titanium oxide is coated with a metal oxide such as silane or alumina, and then surface-treated with alkylsilane. In addition, it is preferable that these powders having an ultraviolet protection effect have been subjected to water repellency treatment with an organosilicon compound. Examples of the organosilicon compound include silane coupling agents and silicone resins among the above treatment agents.
これらのうち、紫外線吸収剤として好ましくは、パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル、2−[4−(ジエチルアミノ)−2−ヒドロキシベンゾイル]安息香酸ヘキシルであり、紫外線散乱剤として好ましくは、シリコーン処理酸化チタン、シリコーン処理酸化亜鉛、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン処理又はオクチルシリル処理酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛である。 Of these, preferable as ultraviolet absorbers are 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate and hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate, and preferable as a UV scattering agent is silicone-treated oxidation. Titanium, silicone-treated zinc oxide, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane-treated or octylsilyl-treated titanium oxide and zinc oxide.
成分(H)の紫外線防御剤は、1種又は2種以上の複数のものを混合して使用することができる。成分(H)の紫外線防御剤の含有量は、安定性の観点から、全組成中に20質量%以下が好ましく、より好ましくは10質量%以下、更に好ましくは8質量%以下である。 As the component (H), the ultraviolet protective agent can be used alone or in combination of two or more. The content of the ultraviolet protective agent of component (H) is preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, and still more preferably 8% by mass or less in the total composition from the viewpoint of stability.
その他成分:
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、前記成分(A)〜(H)以外に、本発明の効果に影響を与えない限りにおいて、肌感を調節し、化粧料の保存安定性を向上させることを目的として、油性成分を含有することができる。
油性成分としては、鉱物油、植物油、エステル油、成分(B)及び(C)以外の低粘度シリコーン油、トコフェロールなどが挙げられる。鉱物油の具体例としては、液体パラフィン、ドデカン、ポリブチレン、ポリイソブチレンなどが挙げられ、植物油の具体例として、菜種油、アマニ油、綿実油、大豆油、茶種子油、米ぬか油、桐油などが挙げられ、低粘度シリコーン油の具体例として、粘度が6csであるジメチルシリコーン油(Silicone KF−96A−6cs、信越化学工業社製)、(ジメチコン/ビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー(25%ジメチコン6cs分散物)(KSG−16、信越化学工業社製)などが挙げられる。
Other ingredients:
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention adjusts the skin feeling and improves the storage stability of the cosmetic, as long as the effects of the present invention are not affected, in addition to the components (A) to (H). For the purpose of making it, an oily component can be contained.
Examples of the oil component include mineral oil, vegetable oil, ester oil, low viscosity silicone oil other than components (B) and (C), and tocopherol. Specific examples of mineral oil include liquid paraffin, dodecane, polybutylene, polyisobutylene, and specific examples of vegetable oil include rapeseed oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, rice bran oil, tung oil, and the like. Specific examples of low-viscosity silicone oils include dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 6 cs (Silicone KF-96A-6cs, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer (25% dimethicone 6cs dispersion) ( KSG-16, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
また、本発明の効果に影響を与えない範囲で、目的に応じて化粧品、医薬品等に用いられる他の各種の任意成分を配合してもよい。例えば、保湿剤、粉体、濃化剤、増粘剤、他の界面活性剤、乳化剤、消炎剤、酸化防止剤、pH調節剤、キレート剤、防腐剤、色素、香料、コラーゲン等が挙げられる。 Moreover, you may mix | blend various other arbitrary components used for cosmetics, a pharmaceutical, etc. according to the objective in the range which does not affect the effect of this invention. Examples include humectants, powders, thickeners, thickeners, other surfactants, emulsifiers, flame retardants, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, preservatives, dyes, fragrances, collagen, and the like. .
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、製品形態としては、ジェル、乳液、クリーム、軟膏等が挙げられる。 Examples of the product form of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention include gels, emulsions, creams, ointments and the like.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料を用いてスキンケアを行う場合、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料を肌に使用しかつ保持すれば良い。更に、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料を肌に使用する場合、該乳化化粧料はただちに解乳化され、肌の表面にべたつきがなく、さっぱりする膜を形成し、外界刺激への隔離効果を効果的に発揮する。 When performing skin care using the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may be used and held on the skin. Furthermore, when the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention is used on the skin, the emulsified cosmetic composition is immediately demulsified to form a refreshing film that is not sticky on the skin surface, and has an isolation effect on external stimuli. Is effective.
実施例1及び比較例1〜8
下記製造方法に準じ、表2に示される組成の実施例1及び比較例1〜8の油中水型乳化化粧料を製造し、外界刺激への隔離効果、保存安定性、塗布時ののびの良さ、塗布乾燥後の感触、及びさっぱり感を評価した。その結果を表1に示した。
Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-8
According to the following manufacturing method, the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 having the compositions shown in Table 2 are manufactured, and have an isolation effect against external stimuli, storage stability, and spread at the time of application. Goodness, feel after application and drying, and refreshing feeling were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
(製造方法)
成分(A)〜(D)を第I相(油相)成分とし、成分(E)を第II相(水相)成分とする。第I相の成分を表2に示される量で、室温でプロペラ撹拌(500rpm)により均一混合し、溶解混合した第II相を攪拌下ゆっくりと加えて乳化し、油中水型乳化化粧料300gを製造した。
(Production method)
Components (A) to (D) are designated as phase I (oil phase) components, and component (E) is designated as phase II (water phase) component. Ingredients of Phase I were mixed uniformly at room temperature with propeller stirring (500 rpm) at room temperature, and dissolved and mixed Phase II was slowly added with stirring to emulsify, 300 g of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. Manufactured.
(評価方法及び基準)
以下の方法及び基準に基づき、油中水型乳化化粧料の外界刺激への隔離効果、保存安定性、塗布時ののびの良さ、塗布乾燥後の感触、さっぱり感を評価する。
(Evaluation methods and standards)
Based on the following methods and criteria, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic is evaluated for its isolation effect against external stimuli, storage stability, good spreadability during application, feel after application and dryness, and refreshment.
(I)外界刺激への隔離効果に対する評価:
外界刺激への隔離効果について、接触角、閉塞性及び汚れの付着測定を利用して評価する。その具体的な評価方法は以下の通りである。
(A)接触角:
(1)面積が5cm×4cmの人工皮革(サプラーレ/出光社製)を用意する。
(2)上記人工皮革に化粧料0.04mLを均一に塗布し、室内で一晩乾燥させる。
(3)上記人工皮革を水平に設置する。更に人工皮革の水平線上にカメラを設置し、カメラの高さ及び距離を調整することにより、上記人工皮革上乾燥サンプルの水平表面を撮影できるようにする。
(4)マイクロシリンジを用いて、人工皮革の乾燥サンプル表面に5μLの純水(水滴)をゆっくりと塗布表面に接触滴下する。
(5)5分間静置後、写真を撮影する。
(6)得られた水滴の写真から、下記の式を用いて、接触角θを計算する。
接触角が大きいほど、ぬれ性が低く、外界刺激成分が広がりにくいため、隔離効果が高いことを意味する。
(I) Evaluation of isolation effects on external stimuli:
The isolation effect against external stimuli is evaluated using contact angle, occlusion and dirt adhesion measurement. The specific evaluation method is as follows.
(A) Contact angle:
(1) Prepare artificial leather with an area of 5cm x 4cm (supplera / Idemitsu).
(2) Apply 0.04 mL of cosmetic material uniformly to the artificial leather and dry it indoors overnight.
(3) Install the artificial leather horizontally. Further, a camera is installed on the horizontal line of the artificial leather, and the horizontal surface of the dried sample on the artificial leather can be photographed by adjusting the height and distance of the camera.
(4) Using a microsyringe, 5 μL of pure water (water droplets) is slowly dropped onto the coated surface of the artificial leather on the dry sample surface.
(5) Take a picture after standing for 5 minutes.
(6) The contact angle θ is calculated from the photograph of the obtained water droplet using the following formula.
As the contact angle is larger, the wettability is lower and the external stimulus component is less likely to spread, which means that the isolation effect is higher.
(B)閉塞性:
カップ法により、閉塞性の測定を行う。すなわち、40mLバイアルビン(ピアースバイアルCV−400(アズワン社製);蓋に直径17.3mmの孔が空いている)に、φ=22.0mm Glass Microfiber Filter(Whatman GF/C)をビンの上にのせ、蓋をする。乳化化粧料0.05gをむき出しになっているフィルター部分に塗布し、1昼夜乾燥させた。その後、水25mLを入れ、20℃、湿度40%で3日間放置後(サンプルの質量変動がない状態)、質量を測定(M1)、更にその24時間後の質量を測定(M2)し、下記式により、水分蒸散量を求めた。
水分蒸散量(g)=M1−M2
(B) Occlusion:
Occlusion is measured by the cup method. That is, in a 40 mL vial bottle (Pierce vial CV-400 (manufactured by ASONE); a hole having a diameter of 17.3 mm is formed in the lid), φ = 22.0 mm Glass Microfiber Filter (Whatman GF / C) is placed on the bottle. Place on top and cover. The emulsified cosmetic 0.05 g was applied to the exposed filter part and dried for one day. Thereafter, 25 mL of water was added, and after standing for 3 days at 20 ° C. and a humidity of 40% (in a state where there was no mass fluctuation of the sample), the mass was measured (M1), and the mass after 24 hours was further measured (M2). The amount of water transpiration was determined from the equation.
Moisture transpiration (g) = M1-M2
また、乳化化粧料の代わりにPlacebo(水)を用い、上記と同様に処理して水分蒸散量を求め、下記式により、閉塞性(%)を求めた。閉塞性が高いほど、均一な皮膜形成能が高く、外界刺激への隔離効果が大きいことを意味する。
閉塞性(%)=[1−(乳化化粧料の水分蒸散量/Placebo処理の水分蒸散量)]×100
Further, Placebo (water) was used instead of the emulsified cosmetic, and the amount of water transpiration was determined by the same treatment as above, and the obstructive property (%) was determined by the following formula. The higher the occlusion property, the higher the uniform film forming ability and the greater the isolation effect against external stimuli.
Occlusion property (%) = [1- (moisture transpiration of emulsified cosmetic / water transpiration of Placebo treatment)] × 100
(C)汚れの付着測定:
煤を大気汚染物質のモデルとし、ダートチャンバーを用いて付着性を調べる。
(1)5cm×4cmの白色人工皮革(サプラーレ、出光社製)を用意する。
(2)0.02gのモデル皮脂を均一に塗布する(モデル皮脂組成は表1のとおり)。
(C) Dirt adhesion measurement:
Using 煤 as a model for air pollutants, the adhesion is examined using a dirt chamber.
(1) Prepare 5cm x 4cm white artificial leather (supplera, manufactured by Idemitsu).
(2) Uniformly apply 0.02 g of model sebum (model sebum composition is as shown in Table 1).
(3)0.04mLの化粧料を上記人工皮革全体に均一に塗布する。
(4)一晩乾燥させる。
(5)色差計(D−2500d、オリンパス社製)により、L*a*b*値を測定する。
(6)ダートチャンバー(65×40×40cm箱型/循環用ファン付き(花王社製))を準備する(図1)。
(7)チャンバー内中心に、排気口の高さに合わせて、化粧料を塗布した人工皮革を設置する。
(8)燃焼室に、灯油を染み込ませた濾紙(φ=22.0mm Glass Microfiber Filter(Whatman GF/C))を設置し、点火する。
(9)ファンで、煙を循環させ、5分放置後、人工皮革を取り出す。
(10)この操作を5回繰り返す。
(11)(10)の後、サンプルを取り出し、色差計により、L*a*b*値を測定し、ΔEを求める。
△Eが小さいほど、汚れの付着抑制効果が大きく、外界刺激への隔離効果が大きいことを意味する。
(3) Uniformly apply 0.04 mL of cosmetic material to the whole artificial leather.
(4) Dry overnight.
(5) The L * a * b * value is measured with a color difference meter (D-2500d, manufactured by Olympus).
(6) Prepare a dirt chamber (65 × 40 × 40 cm box type / with circulation fan (manufactured by Kao)) (FIG. 1).
(7) In the center of the chamber, install artificial leather coated with cosmetics according to the height of the exhaust port.
(8) Install a filter paper soaked in kerosene (φ = 22.0 mm Glass Microfiber Filter (Whatman GF / C)) in the combustion chamber and ignite.
(9) Circulate the smoke with a fan, leave it for 5 minutes, and then remove the artificial leather.
(10) Repeat this operation 5 times.
(11) After (10), a sample is taken out, L * a * b * value is measured by a color difference meter, and ΔE is obtained.
It means that the smaller the ΔE, the greater the effect of suppressing the adhesion of dirt, and the greater the effect of isolating against external stimuli.
(II)保存安定性に対する評価:
各化粧料をガラスビン(高さ9.5cm、内径4.5cm)に入れ、50℃1ヵ月、1日2週間40℃〜−30℃の温度サイクル2週間保存後、サンプルの状態を目視で観察し、下記の基準によって評価する。
(評価基準)
◎:変化無し。
○:少し変化があるが、分層がなく、製品として問題がない範囲。
△:少し分層あり。
×:完全に分層。
(II) Evaluation for storage stability:
Each cosmetic is placed in a glass bottle (height 9.5 cm, inner diameter 4.5 cm), stored at 50 ° C. for 1 month, 2 weeks a day for 2 weeks and a temperature cycle of 40 ° C. to −30 ° C. for 2 weeks. And evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: No change.
○: There is a slight change, but there is no division and there is no problem as a product.
Δ: Slightly divided.
X: Completely separated.
(III)塗布時ののびの良さ、塗布乾燥後の感触、さっぱり感に対する評価:
10名の専門パネラーが、各化粧料を0.2g顔に塗布して保持する。以下の基準(1)、基準(2)、基準(3)により、塗布時ののびのよ良さ、塗布乾燥後の感触、さっぱり感を評価する。専門パネラー10名の評価より平均点を求め、3.6以上を◎、2.6〜3.6未満を○、1.6〜2.6未満を△、1.6未満を×とする。
(III) Evaluation of good spread during application, feel after application and drying, and refreshing feeling:
Ten professional panelists apply and hold 0.2 g of each cosmetic on the face. The following criteria (1), criteria (2), and criteria (3) are used to evaluate the goodness of spreading at the time of application, the feel after application and drying, and the refreshing feeling. An average score is obtained from the evaluation of 10 professional panelists, and 3.6 or more is evaluated as ◎, 2.6 to less than 3.6 is evaluated as ◯, 1.6 to less than 2.6 is evaluated as Δ, and less than 1.6 is evaluated as ×.
評価基準(1)
4;とてものばしやすい。
3;のばしやすい。
2;ややのばしやすい。
1;のばしにくい。
Evaluation criteria (1)
4; It is very easy to extend.
3; Easy to extend.
2; It is easy to extend a little.
1; Hard to stretch.
評価基準(2)
4;皮膜残留感はまったくない。
3;皮膜残留感はほとんどない。
2;皮膜残留感がややある。
1;皮膜残留感がある。
Evaluation criteria (2)
4; There is no film residual feeling.
3: There is almost no residual film.
2; There is a little residual film.
1: There is a film residual feeling.
評価基準(3)
4;とてもさっぱりしている。
3;さっぱりしている。
2;ややさっぱりしている。
1;さっぱりしていない。
Evaluation criteria (3)
4; Very refreshing.
3; It is refreshing.
2; A little refreshing.
1; not refreshing.
表2の結果から明らかなように、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、比較例1〜8のものと比較して、接触角、閉塞性、汚れの付着測定のいずれの項目においても、優れた結果が得られ、外界刺激への隔離効果に優れ、塗布時にのばしやすく、塗布乾燥後の皮膜の感触に優れ、その上、保存安定性及びさっぱり感の両立も実現されたものであることがわかった。 As is clear from the results in Table 2, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a contact angle, occlusiveness, and dirt adhesion measurement as compared with those of Comparative Examples 1 to 8. Excellent results, excellent isolation effect against external stimuli, easy to spread during application, excellent film feel after coating and drying, and also achieves both storage stability and refreshing feeling. I understood it.
実施例2〜8
実施例1の製造方法に準じ、表3に示される組成の実施例2〜8の油中水型乳化化粧料を、ホモミキサーにて、4000rpm、7000rpm、10000rpmの各攪拌条件で製造した。製造後の水相分離、経時粘度変化率を評価した。その結果を表3に示した。
Examples 2-8
According to the production method of Example 1, water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics of Examples 2 to 8 having the compositions shown in Table 3 were produced with a homomixer under stirring conditions of 4000 rpm, 7000 rpm, and 10,000 rpm. The aqueous phase separation after production and the rate of change in viscosity over time were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3.
(評価方法及び基準)
以下の方法及び基準に基づき、油中水型乳化化粧料の製造後の水相分離、経時粘度変化率を評価する。
(Evaluation methods and standards)
Based on the following methods and criteria, the water phase separation after production of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic and the rate of change in viscosity over time are evaluated.
(IV)製造後(攪拌によるせん断後)の水相分離:
各化粧料をプロペラ/ホモミキサーで攪拌して、化粧料を製造する。製造後の化粧料の状態を目視で観察し、下記の基準によって評価する。
(評価基準)
○:分離しない。
×:分離する。
(IV) Aqueous phase separation after production (after shearing by stirring):
Each cosmetic is stirred with a propeller / homomixer to produce a cosmetic. The state of the cosmetic after production is visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
○: Not separated.
X: Separated.
(V)製造後の経時粘度変化率:
製造直後の化粧料をガラスビン(高さ9.5cm、内径4.5cm)に入れ、25℃において、B型粘度計(東機産業社製、BM型またはTV−10型)により、6rpmの速度で、粘度を測定した。当該化粧料を室温で1ヶ月保存後、前述と同様な条件で再度粘度を測定し、下記式により経時粘度変化率を求めた。変化率が1から離れていくほど、経時粘度変化が大きいことを意味する。
経時粘度変化率=調製直後粘度/室温保存1ヶ月後の粘度
(V) Viscosity change rate with time after production:
The cosmetics immediately after production are put into a glass bottle (height 9.5 cm, inner diameter 4.5 cm), and at 25 ° C., a B-type viscometer (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd., BM type or TV-10 type), speed of 6 rpm The viscosity was measured. After the cosmetic was stored at room temperature for 1 month, the viscosity was measured again under the same conditions as described above, and the rate of change in viscosity over time was determined by the following formula. It means that the change in viscosity with time increases as the rate of change increases from 1.
Viscosity change rate with time = viscosity immediately after preparation / viscosity after 1 month storage at room temperature
表3の結果から明らかなように、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に、成分(F)のHLB8未満のシリコーン鎖を含む界面活性剤を配合すると、ホモミキサーを使用しても、水相分離が抑えられ、さらに成分(G)の無機塩類を配合すると、経時粘度変化が抑えられた。 As is apparent from the results in Table 3, when a surfactant containing a silicone chain of less than HLB8 of component (F) is blended with the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, water is used even if a homomixer is used. Phase separation was suppressed, and when the inorganic salt of component (G) was further blended, changes in viscosity with time were suppressed.
実施例9〜11及び比較例9〜11
実施例1の製造方法に準じ、表4に示される組成の実施例9〜11及び比較例9〜11の油中水型乳化化粧料を製造し、各化粧料のSPF値を測定した。その結果を表4に示した。
Examples 9-11 and Comparative Examples 9-11
According to the production method of Example 1, water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics of Examples 9 to 11 and Comparative Examples 9 to 11 having the compositions shown in Table 4 were produced, and SPF values of the cosmetics were measured. The results are shown in Table 4.
(測定方法)
以下の方法に基づき、油中水型乳化化粧料のSPF値を測定した。
石英ガラス板上のサージカルテープに各化粧料を2mg/cm2になるよう均一に塗布し、20分以上放置して乾燥させた後、SPFアナライザー(Optometrics社)を用いて、化粧料のSPF値を測定した。
(Measuring method)
Based on the following method, the SPF value of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic was measured.
Each cosmetic is uniformly applied to a surgical tape on a quartz glass plate to 2 mg / cm 2 , left to dry for 20 minutes or longer, and then dried using an SPF analyzer (Optometrics) to determine the SPF value of the cosmetic. It was measured.
表4の結果から明らかなように、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、優れた皮膜形成ができ、より優れた紫外線防御効果が得られた。 As is clear from the results in Table 4, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention was able to form an excellent film and obtain a more excellent UV protection effect.
実施例12〜30
実施例1の製造方法に準じ、表5に示される組成の実施例12〜27の油中水型乳化化粧料及び実施例28(保湿美容液)、実施例29(サンスクリーン)、実施例30(バームクリーム)を製造した。
Examples 12-30
According to the production method of Example 1, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics of Examples 12 to 27 having the composition shown in Table 5 and Example 28 (moisturizing serum), Example 29 (sunscreen), and Example 30 (Balm cream) was produced.
実施例12〜30で得られた油中水型乳化化粧料はいずれも、保存安定性が良く、塗布時や塗布後の感触が良く、さっぱり感を有するとともに、外界刺激への隔離効果に優れたものである。 All of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics obtained in Examples 12 to 30 have good storage stability, a good feel during application and after application, a refreshing feeling, and an excellent isolation effect against external stimuli. It is a thing.
Claims (10)
(A)シリコーンエラストマー 0.5〜10質量%であって、
該シリコーンエラストマーは、下記一般式(a−1):
R1 aR2 bHcSiO(4-a-b-c)/2 (a−1)
及び/又は下記一般式(a−2):
R1 jHkSiO(4-j-k)/2 (a−2)
で表されるオルガノハイドロジェンポリシロキサンと、
下記一般式(a−3):
CmH2m-1O(C2H4O)p(C3H6O)qCmH2m-1 (a−3)
で表されるポリオキシアルキレン、及び/又は
下記一般式(a−4):
R1 dR3 eSiO(4-d-e)/2 (a−4)
で表されるオルガノポリシロキサンと
を付加重合させて得られ、そのうち、前記一般式(a−1)及び/又は前記一般式(a−3)で表される成分を必須成分とするシリコーンエラストマー、
(式中、R1 は同種又は異種の置換又は非置換の炭素数1〜18の夫々一価のアルキル基若しくはアリール基、アラルキル基又はハロゲン化炭化水素基であり、R2は、一般式−CnH2nO(C2H4O)f(C3H6O)gR4で示される有機基、R3は末端ビニル基を有する炭素数2〜10の一価の炭化水素基、R4 は水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜10の飽和有機基又はR5−(CO)−で示される基、R5は炭素数1〜5の飽和有機基であり、
a、b、c、d、e、j及びkはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1、0.001≦c≦1、1.0≦d≦3.0、0.001≦e≦1.5、1.0≦j≦3.0及び0.001≦k≦1.5であり、f及びpは2〜200の整数、g及びqは0〜200の整数、f+gは3〜200、p+qは3〜200であり、m及びnは2〜6である)
(B)重合度が350以上1500以下であるジメチルポリシロキサン 0.2〜10質量%、
(C)重合度が1以上6以下であるジメチルポリシロキサン及び/又はデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 3〜28質量%、
(D)エチルアルコール 0.5〜25質量%、
(E)水
を含有する油中水型乳化化粧料。 The following components (A) to (E):
(A) Silicone elastomer 0.5-10 mass%,
The silicone elastomer has the following general formula (a-1):
R 1 a R 2 b H c SiO (4-abc) / 2 (a-1)
And / or the following general formula (a-2):
R 1 j H k SiO (4-jk) / 2 (a-2)
An organohydrogenpolysiloxane represented by:
The following general formula (a-3):
C m H 2m-1 O ( C 2 H 4 O) p (C 3 H 6 O) q C m H 2m-1 (a-3)
And / or the following general formula (a-4):
R 1 d R 3 e SiO (4-de) / 2 (a-4)
A silicone elastomer having the component represented by the general formula (a-1) and / or the general formula (a-3) as an essential component, which is obtained by addition polymerization with an organopolysiloxane represented by the formula:
(In the formula, R 1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group or aryl group each monovalent 1-18 carbon atoms, an aralkyl group or a halogenated hydrocarbon group having same or different, R 2 is Formula - C n H 2n O (C 2 H 4 O) f (C 3 H 6 O) g R an organic group represented by 4, R 3 is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms having a terminal vinyl group, R 4 is a hydrogen atom, a saturated organic group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a group represented by R 5 — (CO) —, R 5 is a saturated organic group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
a, b, c, d, e, j and k are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1, 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1, 1.0 ≦ d ≦ 3.0, respectively. 0.001 ≦ e ≦ 1.5, 1.0 ≦ j ≦ 3.0 and 0.001 ≦ k ≦ 1.5, f and p are integers of 2 to 200, and g and q are 0 to 200. ), F + g is 3 to 200, p + q is 3 to 200, and m and n are 2 to 6)
(B) 0.2-10 mass% of dimethylpolysiloxane whose degree of polymerization is 350 or more and 1500 or less,
(C) dimethylpolysiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane having a degree of polymerization of 1 or more and 6 or less, 3 to 28% by mass,
(D) 0.5-25% by mass of ethyl alcohol,
(E) A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing water.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
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JP2015205832A (en) * | 2014-04-21 | 2015-11-19 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic preparation |
JP2015221775A (en) * | 2014-05-23 | 2015-12-10 | 株式会社ダリヤ | Water-in-oil type emulsified composition |
KR20180006536A (en) * | 2016-07-07 | 2018-01-18 | 코스맥스 주식회사 | Anti-dust cosmetic composition with micro bump forming agent |
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Also Published As
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TWI547290B (en) | 2016-09-01 |
TW201328717A (en) | 2013-07-16 |
JP6051025B2 (en) | 2016-12-21 |
CN103120625A (en) | 2013-05-29 |
CN103120625B (en) | 2016-08-10 |
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