JP2008150765A - Cutting method for forming cloth into three-dimensional 3d protruding shape and recessed shape by utilizing extension spring of left bias cloth and right bias cloth as main cloth - Google Patents
Cutting method for forming cloth into three-dimensional 3d protruding shape and recessed shape by utilizing extension spring of left bias cloth and right bias cloth as main cloth Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
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本発明は伸縮性バネで立体形をバイアス左とバイアス右バネで作り出す方法で一枚布で作れるシームレスでも作れる山形凸部谷形凹部を有する布地の裁断方法に関する。The present invention relates to a method for cutting a fabric having a mountain-shaped convex portion and a valley-shaped concave portion that can be made seamlessly by a method of creating a three-dimensional shape with a stretchable spring with a bias left and a bias right spring.
従来、例えば米国特許6800159B2号や特願2000−400120号に開示されているように、請求項1、縦横90度で織られた布帛布地を45〜55度裁断正方形布地として左〜右裁断バイアス部と右〜左裁断バイアス部として区別して伸縮性一方向した…裁断した平面布地。Conventionally, as disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 6,800,199B2 and Japanese Patent Application No. 2000-400120, the left-right cutting bias portion is formed by using a fabric cloth woven at 90 degrees in length and breadth as a 45-55 degree square fabric. And the right-left cutting bias part was distinguished and stretched in one direction ... Cut flat fabric.
布地をバイアスで裁断は布地を多く使うわけは正方形布地から左裁断右裁断で2枚の布地が必要となり、不必要部分が図1(a)〜(h)R8〜L8の空白部分の空地が出来るからである、その空白部分を有功利用をする方法でダーツ部分を活用で空白利用図3(b)長パンツ前部にスペード形空白部Zを前身左から右に反転空白Zは布帛布地もKnit編地も正方形の反転バイアスは正方形布地の斜め線をleft(R7)左バイアスで図2(a)Right(L7)を右バイアスとする手段で両7線下を空白に左〜右すると一目で分りやすいバイアスの布裁断無駄遣いを逆利用。Cutting fabric with a bias uses a lot of fabric because it requires two pieces of fabric from a square fabric by left-cutting and right-cutting. Unnecessary parts are empty spaces in FIGS. 1 (a) to (h) R8 to L8. This is because the blank part can be used effectively by utilizing the dart part by utilizing the dart part. Fig. 3 (b) Spade-shaped blank part Z on the front of the long pants is inverted from the left to the right. The blank Z is also a fabric cloth. Knit knitted fabric also has a square reversal bias. By using left (right) bias for left (right) of Fig. 2 (a) Right (L7) for the diagonal line of square fabric and left (right) for Fig. 2 (a) Right (L7), it is a glance. Reverse the waste of cutting cloth with a bias that is easy to understand.
本発明の発明者は、縦横90度で織られた正方形布地でバイアス斜地部は一枚から左〜右布は取れない様に例えば長パンツは前身2枚裁断した布地が通常の裁断方法とされていたので、布地の立体形、山形とか谷形部は出来なかったのは、通常の布地で張力布地は自力のバイアス反発は左バイアスと右バイアスでしかも一枚の布地では重なり合うので片方バイアスしか裁断出来ないと思われて来たが、本発明者は前身中心線での小股部が突き出し重なり部分で、1枚布断が不可能に気付いた時、新インスプレーションがひらめいた。つまり重なり部分が必要布地分量を逆転の発想、重なり部分の不足を逆の方法でダーツを取って前身頃中心の下小股部を何度も何度も実験試作してついに図1〜図6までKnit布地も布帛布地でも1枚布地でも完成出来上った長(longPants)パンツさらに短いブリーフパンツはKnitWhee編地図4(a)〜(c)の輪編1枚布(写真)図完成し、さらに布帛布地ブリーフは前身右バイアス後身左バイアス交差裁断で、ストレッチ出来る布帛ブリーフ、図6(f)完成図である。又図2〜3は型紙を縮小した現実的製図でも有る。特許技術はU.S.6800159B2号と特願2000−400120号に開示されている正方形の左バイヤス布と次の正方形(反対側)右バイヤス交差で発生するストレッチ出来る布地体のブリーフ図6(f)で証明された、2枚バイヤス断ブリーフ1枚右バイアスチェック地ともう1枚左バイヤスチェック布地(写真)で2枚布裁断布地(シート布地)The inventor of the present invention is a square fabric woven at 90 degrees in length and breadth, and the bias slanted portion cannot be removed from one piece to the left to right cloth. As a result, the three-dimensional shape, mountain shape, or valley shape of the fabric could not be made. The normal fabric and the tension fabric had their own bias repulsion with the left bias and the right bias, and they overlap on one fabric, so one side bias However, the present inventor invented a new injection when he noticed that it was impossible to cut one piece at the overlapped part of the small crotch at the center line of the forehead. In other words, the overlapping part is the idea of reversing the required fabric amount, the deficit of the overlapping part is darted in the opposite way, and the lower crotch part centered on the front body is experimentally prototyped over and over again. Knit fabrics, fabric fabrics, or long fabrics (longPants) pants that have been completed. Shorter briefs have been completed on KnitWhee maps 4 (a)-(c). Furthermore, the fabric fabric brief is a fabric brief that can be stretched by cross-cutting the front right bias and the rear left bias. FIG. 6 (f) is a completed drawing. FIGS. 2 to 3 are also practical drawings in which the paper pattern is reduced. Patent technology is disclosed in U.S. Pat. S. Brief of stretchable fabric body generated at the intersection of the square left biased fabric and the next square (opposite side) right bias disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 6800159B2 and Japanese Patent Application No. 2000-400120, as shown in FIG. 6 (f). One sheet of fabric biased briefs and one sheet of right bias checked and another sheet of left biased fabric (photo).
図1(a)〜(h)本発明の実施の形態は米国特許6800159B2号の特願2000−400120号本発明者の基本の原理、ストレッチ出来る物理は左バイアス布と右バイアス布衝突=Stretchable CLOTHSで糸のStretchable fibre(物理)=S型糸と逆S型糸の衝突(rashEnergie本発見者が開示図1〜(d)を図に基づいて説明する。図1〜(d)は普通糸の右バイアス(L7)で図1〜(c)は横織糸高分子センイで(2A)左バイアス(R7)であり次に普通センイ又は高分子センイも左伸張S型で、右伸張が逆S字型ストレッチ出来るセンイ粒子体(本発明者発見)
で本発明の3D(立体)ストレッチ体を発明した。1 (a) to 1 (h) The embodiment of the present invention is US Pat. No. 6,800,159B2 of Japanese Patent Application No. 2000-400120. Stretchable fiber (physical) of the yarn = collision of S-type yarn and reverse S-type yarn (disclosed by the discoverer of RushEnergy) FIG. 1 to FIG. 1 (c) shows a right bias (L7), and FIG. 1 (c) shows a weft yarn polymer sensor (2A) a left bias (R7). Seni particles that can be stretched in a letter shape (discovered by the present inventor)
Invented the 3D (solid) stretch of the present invention.
図2(a)〜(e)はKnit編地又は布帛織地第センイのストレッチ粒子体のストレッチエネルギーを図1(g)〜(h)左エネルギーS体で、右エネルギー逆S体を図2(a)のパンツ前身9の中央部ダーツ完成部x左〜右布センイ布体はバイアス衝突エネルギー体に形成してから前身下部にM字体に布カット裁断する次に図2(b)〜(d)は後身下部と前身下部を合体する方法で後身10のパンツ下部に引伸ばし部10′を短かめ布地を形成して、次に前身9と後身10は下部9′〜10′は合体はM字形縫合され部x=第2のセンイ衝突エネルギが発生するとM字形縫い合せ部x…は谷凹部が出来て、前身頃9の中央に山凸部が自動的発生13部が形成される原理は30立体ストレッチ張力効果である。2 (a) to 2 (e) show the stretch energy of the stretch particle body of the Knit knitted fabric or the fabric woven fabric, the left energy S body, and the right energy reverse S body of FIG. The center dart completed part x left to right cloth Seni cloth body of the
図3(a)…丸)はKnit丸編地1枚布「丸11」で裁断したパンツ(短)で立体部作製は後身10の下部10′は引伸ばし部図3(b)〜は、普通布(すべて)「1枚布12でロングパンツ」を裁断したので縫い目を最も少なくして、しかも立体形3Dパンツが製造出来る最高の裁断図でロングパンツは中央は本来加えるべき小股部は失われた布地13部が「W形部とV形部」が13形成が重要なロングパンツを1枚布製造を可能とした股下中央ノッチ前16と後側16′で合致で長パンツ完成。3 (a) ... circle) is a pant (short) cut with a Knit circular knitted fabric "maru 11", and a three-dimensional part is produced. The lower part 10 'of the
図4(a)〜(f)は本発明のブリーフパンツはこのように、パンツ布地が立体的縫製で出来上る方法で前身91枚布に立体形凸部13はまず第1ダーツx=左バイアスL8と右バイアスR8が合体ダーツが始まりでその両側渕に2ヶダーツM形12が縫製されると自動的に山形凸部13が出来上る事が本発明の中心的理論である図4(a)〜(c)はシームレス編布(輪編)の男女用ブリーフで図4(d)〜(e)は前開き用パンツで図4(f)パンツは、左と右バイアス布の前身と後身バイアス交差布地。4 (a) to 4 (f) show the brief pants according to the present invention in such a manner that the pant fabric is made by three-dimensional sewing, and the three-
図5(a)〜(c)は本発明の1枚布地でロングパンツを立体的に製造する方法であって、前側9と後側9は1枚ので繋がっている事が特長でしかも立体的にストレッチ出来るパンツは後側尻部に前側下腹も1枚で繋がっているので裁断も縫製も関単でしかもストレッチ性も立体的機能が優れている後縫い合せ15尻部の股下は前身16と後側16で合致ですべて1枚布ロングパンツ、寝まき、Gパンツ、モモ引、ズボン下も1枚布で完成する。FIGS. 5 (a) to 5 (c) show a method for manufacturing a long pant in a three-dimensional manner with a single fabric according to the present invention, wherein the
図6(a)〜(f)は本発明のシート及自動車用布地シートをストレッチ出来る方法で立体形に皴の出さい張力(中古車になっても)機能を有する凸部と13谷部12を形成をピーンと張り込み常態バイアス谷部底左バイアスR8と右バイアスL8で形成した形態が出来る、さらにY字形でストレッチ出来る方法は特開2006−225830号図7の単Vダーツをもっと美しく形成する方法でバイアス布地の縫合せ後のVダーツにさらに左バイアス左角にもVダーツ17ともう一方の右バイアス右角にもVダーツ18を形成すると3ヶダーツ方式でダイムラークライスラー社ベンツのシートのY字型の皴を取れないか?と依頼発明〔図7〕よりもさらに皴が発生しない方法で、この方法で皴が出やすい皮布の自動車シートは中古になっても皮皴が起さない座席の背中(背もたれ)の凹部が本裁断T字型が出来上り(縫い合せ)でY字型21にスレチャブルクロス変形で完成する左バイアス布部と右バイアス布部をダーツカット(裁断)して縫い合せストレッチ支持部材として次に主布地は縦布地20又は横布地19に向って引伸し(カット分量3ヶ所)て無理矢理縫い付けるとY字型ストレッチ出来る自動車シート製造方法。6 (a) to 6 (f) show a convex portion and a 13-
(実施例1)図1〜図2
本発明の裁断方法で左バイアス部カット部と右バイアス部カット部でV字逆形Vカットを形成して第1縫い合せ部をパンツ前身下キングセならぬキン取り逆Vカット縫い合せ中央にM形2ヶ所ダーツを形成で中央両脇ダーツにパンツ後身の水平線を両方に引き伸ばしてM形前身頃を無理矢理に縫い合せると、ポッコリと美しいキン山が平にしても立ち上る布体。図2(e)13が出来上る、凸形Stretchable CLOTHS。(Example 1) FIGS. 1-2
In the cutting method of the present invention, the left bias portion cut portion and the right bias portion cut portion form a V-shaped inverted V cut, and the first stitching portion is M at the center of the reverse V-cut stitching that is not a king under the underpants Forming two darts in the center, stretching the horizontal line of the back of the pants on both sides of the darts on both sides, and forcing the M-shaped front part together, the cloth body will stand up even if it is flat. Fig. 2 (e) 13 is completed, and convex Stretchable CLOTHS.
〔実施例2)図3〜図4
本発明のKnit輪編シームレス ブリーフの製造法Example 2 FIGS. 3 to 4
Manufacturing method of Knit ring-knitted seamless brief of the present invention
〔実施例3)図3〜図5
本発明のニットや布帛布地、皮、第あらゆる布地で1〜2枚布地でパンツ(ロング)を裁断もしカットで出来る製造法は股下16は直線でジィンズパンツ用ジインズ布地がシングル巾の場合xダーツ上で直線切変え縫は前立とダーツと同時に縫い合せで2枚布の1カット。Example 3 FIGS. 3 to 5
The production method that can cut and cut pants (long) with 1 or 2 sheets of fabric, leather, leather, or any number of fabrics according to the present invention is a
(実施例4)図6
本発明で自動車シートをストレッチ出来る布地の製造法でさらに立体形凸形山部と立体形凹部を形成出来る自動車シート布地の立体Stretchable CLTHSの製造方法。(Example 4) FIG.
The manufacturing method of solid Stretchable CLTHS of the automobile seat cloth which can form a solid-shaped convex mountain part and a solid-shaped recessed part further by the manufacturing method of the textile which can stretch an automobile seat by this invention.
本発明の裁断方法によれば、布帛布地、Knit編地ポリウレタン高分子センイ、皮、プラスチック地の張力を有効利用に左バイアスのセンイS形と右バイアスのセンイ逆S形がダーツ縫い合せで反発で山形凸部を明かにする方法で第1ダーツを縫い合せてから、その山形の山の裾の両脇にM形のWダーツで出来た13凸部は、第2縫製で出来るとひっぱったり伸ばしたりしても元の凸に戻る、さらに本発明は1枚の布地輪(Knit)や布帛布地、第1枚布でロングパンツもパーツ無しでも出来る(男前立部尻部マチ部は例外)、ので縫製部を最小限にして、しかも凸部凹部を有する、復元力を有する布地が可能となる。According to the cutting method of the present invention, the left-biased Seng S-type and the right-biased Sen S-inverted S-type are repelled by dart stitching to effectively utilize the tension of the fabric, Knit knitted polyurethane polymer sheath, leather, and plastic fabric. After the first dart is sewed in a way that reveals the chevron, the 13 convex parts made of M-shaped W darts on both sides of the crest of the chevron will be pulled if it can be made by the second sewing. Even if it is stretched, it will return to its original convexity. In addition, the present invention can be used with one piece of fabric ring (Knit), fabric fabric, or first piece of fabric without long pants or parts (except for the male front butt gusset part) Therefore, it is possible to provide a fabric having a restoring force with a minimum of sewing portions and a convex concave portion.
R1・・・・左leftバイアス用センイ(ポリウレタン高分子センイ)縦糸
L1・・・・右rightバイアス用センイ(ポリウレタン高分子センイ)縦糸
R2・・・・左leftバイアス用センイ(ポリウレタン高分子センイ)横糸
L2・・・・右rightバイアス用センイ(ポリウレタン高分子センイ)横糸
R3・・・・左leftバイアス用正方形部右側角部R3〜R5
L3・・・・右rightバイアス用正方形部右側角部L3
L4・・・・右rightバイアス用正方形部左側下角部L4
R5・・・・左leftバイアス用正方形部右側下角部R5
R6・・・・左leftバイアス用正方形部左側角部R6
L6・・・・右rightバイアス用正方形部左側角部L6
R7・・・・左leftバイアス用正方形部切断線R7左方向
L7・・・・右rightバイアス用正方形部切断線L7右方向
S・・・・高分子センイ(又は普通糸)ストレッチ出来る左S方向
逆S・・・・高分子センイ(又は普通糸)ストレッチ出来る逆S方向
R8・・・・左leftバイアス用正方形からダーツ用削除空間R8
L8・・・・右rightバイアス用正方形からダーツ用削除空間L8
9・・・・主布地は前身又は引力にさからう側(非伸縮性側)
10・・・・支持部材は後身又は伸張引力側(伸縮性伸張側布
10′・・・支持部材の伸張仕掛け部(伸ばす布部)
x・・・・左leftR8とL8のダーツ用削除部R〜L7縫い合せ部
11・・・・Wダーツの一部左側ダーツ前身中央部左11
11′・・・Wダーツの一部右側ダーツ前身中央部右11′
12・・・・縫い合せたWダーツがM形に変形出来上りM縫
13・・・・M形縫い上りで出来た立体形ストレッチ出来る山凸部
0・・・・編地(Knit)輪筒丸編地のパンツ用布地1枚布
0′・・・・布地裁断布平面織地のパンツ用布地1枚布
14・・・・パンツ男物用前開き部
M・・・・M形Wダーツ部前身(主布地)9の下部
15・・・・パンツ後身尻部縫い合せ部(左部右部
16・・・・パンツ股下 (左部右部
17・・・・自動車シートストレッチ側カットする左バイヤス(支持布地)
18・・・・自動車シートストレッチ側カットする右バイヤス(支持布地)
19・・・・自動車シート用非伸縮側主布地横織地
20・・・・自動車シート用非伸縮側主布地縦織地
21・・・・自動車シート用ストレッチ側と非伸縮布合体Y字布
Z・・・・長パンツの裁断部スペース形空白部を立体形利用する裁断スペースR1... Left left bias sensor (polyurethane polymer sensor) warp L1... Right right bias sensor (polyurethane polymer sensor) warp thread R2... Left left bias sensor (polyurethane polymer sensor) Weft Y L2 ··· Right right bias (Polyurethane polymer sensor) Weft R3 ··· Left left bias square portion R3 to R5
L3... Right right bias square part right side corner part L3
L4... Right right bias square part left lower corner part L4
R5... Left left bias square part right lower corner part R5
R6... Left left bias square part left corner R6
L6... Right right bias square part left side corner part L6
R7 ··· Left left bias square cutting line R7 left direction L7 · · · Right right bias square cutting line L7 right direction S · · · Left S direction that can stretch the polymer thread (or normal yarn) Reverse S · · · Polymer Sei (or ordinary yarn) stretchable reverse S direction R8 · · · Left left bias square to dart removal space R8
L8 ... ・ Right right bias square to dart deletion space L8
9 ... The main fabric is the front side or the side facing the attractive force (non-stretch side)
10... The support member is the back side or the stretch attraction side (elastic
x .... Left left R8 and L8 dart deletion part R-L7 stitching part 11 ... W Darts part left side dart front part center left 11
11 ′ ・ ・ ・ Part of right side of W dart
12 .... The sewn W darts can be transformed into an M shape. M stitches. 13 .... A three-dimensional stretchable convex part made of M-shaped stitches. 0 ... Circles of knitted fabric (Knit). One piece of fabric for pants for knitted fabrics 0 '··· Fabric cut fabric One piece of fabric for pants of plain woven fabric ····· Pant men's front opening M · · · M-shaped W dart part
18 ... Right side bias (support fabric) to cut the car seat stretch side
19... Non-stretchable side main fabric weave fabric for
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CN103462287A (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2013-12-25 | 熊辉辉 | Sewing method for combined tailoring of infant garments |
WO2014079117A1 (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2014-05-30 | Li Yuli | Cutting processing method of clothing material |
CN104905457A (en) * | 2015-05-04 | 2015-09-16 | 深圳市美立方时尚用品有限公司 | 3D motion fine tailoring method for clothing |
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CN104905457A (en) * | 2015-05-04 | 2015-09-16 | 深圳市美立方时尚用品有限公司 | 3D motion fine tailoring method for clothing |
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