JP7294956B2 - Sewing method for shorts and gusset sewn part of shorts - Google Patents

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to shorts and a sewing method for a gusset sewn portion of shorts.

Patent Literature 1 proposes shorts aimed at continuously preventing the hip hemline from riding up. The shorts consist of a stretchable front body with symmetrically formed leg openings opening downward, a stretchable back body, an inner thigh front part at the lower end of the front body, and an inner thigh rear part at the lower end of the back body. The left and right edges of the front body and the left and right edges of the back body are sewn together, and the front end of the gusset is sewn to the inner thigh front part of the lower end of the front body. The rear end of the gusset portion, which is formed in a convex arc shape, is sewn to the rear part of the inner thigh, which is formed in a concave arc shape at the lower end of the back body. there is

The curvature of the rear end portion of the gusset formed in a convex arc shape is made larger than the curvature of the inner thigh rear portion formed in a concave arc shape at the lower end of the back body, and these rear end portions and the inner thigh rear portion are sewn together to form a hip. Darts are formed that are three-dimensional to fit the bulging body shape at the bottom.

In Patent Document 2, it consists of a main body cloth and a crotch cloth made of a fabric that does not require trimming, and the crotch cloth is made less stretchable than the main body cloth, and is melt-bonded to the inner surface of the crotch portion of the main body cloth for lining. , a pair of right and left protrusions extending along the back edge of the body cloth in the width direction on the back side of the crotch cloth, while the width direction edge on the front side is A pair of shorts has been proposed in which the left and right side edges are continuous in an arc shape or straight line and the protrusions are not provided.

Japanese Patent No. 4416793 Utility Model Registration No. 3107714

The above-mentioned shorts have an angle at the corner where the rear end portion formed in a convex arc shape of the gusset and the left and right side edges intersect, and the inner thigh rear portion and the lower end formed in a concave arc shape at the lower end of the back body. Since each of the angles at which the inclined lower edge connecting the rear part of the inner thigh intersects is an obtuse angle of 110° or more, when the rear end part and the rear part of the inner thigh are sewn together, the side edge of the gusset and the rear The slanted lower edge of the body does not extend linearly, but intersects at an obtuse angle.

In the shorts, an elastic belt-like material or string-like material is provided around the leg opening including the intersection of the side edge of the gusset and the inclined lower edge of the back body, so that it feels uncomfortable against the skin. No inconvenience has occurred. In addition, by providing a belt-like material or the like, the end threads generated when the rear end of the gusset portion and the rear part of the inner thigh of the back body are sewn together will not be frayed without special treatment.

However, if a belt-like material or string-like material is placed around the leg opening, which is the hem part, to prevent unraveling, the outline of the thick hem part will stand out from the outer garment, resulting in a poor appearance.

Therefore, as shown in Patent Document 2, the front body, the gusset part, and the back body are integrally configured using a knitted fabric that has been processed to prevent unraveling, and the side edges of the front body and the back body are joined together. Shorts have been proposed that reduce or eliminate the problem of the outline of the hem part protruding from the outer garment. Therefore, it was difficult to sufficiently prevent the hip hemline from riding up.

Therefore, it is conceivable to adopt a knitted fabric processed to prevent unraveling as the body fabric of the shorts disclosed in Patent Document 1, but as described above, the side edge of the gusset and the inclined lower edge of the back body are straight. Since it is not connected in a shape but is connected at an obtuse angle, it looks unattractive and feels uncomfortable against the skin when worn. There is a problem in that it is not possible to perform the treatment for preventing unraveling of the end threads and the fixing stitching treatment for avoiding breakage of the sewn portion in an attractive manner.

In addition, since the left and right edges of the front body and the left and right edges of the back body are sewn together on the buttock side, there is also the problem that the shape of the sewn parts protrudes from the outer garment, resulting in an unattractive appearance.

In view of the above-mentioned problems, the object of the present invention is to prevent the hip hem line from riding up while adopting a knitted fabric that has been treated to prevent fraying, and to prevent the end threads from coming loose during sewing. To provide a method for sewing shorts and a gusset sewn part of shorts, which can perform a fixing treatment and a fixing stitching treatment for avoiding breakage of the sewn part with good appearance.

In order to achieve the above object, the first characteristic configuration of the shorts according to the present invention is that the front body, the gusset part, and the back body are configured using a knitted fabric that is processed to prevent fraying, and the left and right edges of the front body and the back The left and right edges of the body are sewn on the abdomen side, respectively, the rear edge of the gusset formed in a convex arc shape, and the lower edge of the back body formed in a concave arc shape. The shorts are provided with sewn gusset sewn parts, wherein the curvature of the rear edge of the gusset is set larger than the curvature of the lower edge of the back body, and the left and right edges of the gusset. The angle of the corner where the rear edge of the back body intersects is set in the range of 85 to 95°, and the angle of the lower corner where the lower edge of the back body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is set in the range of 90 to 110°. in the point.

The gusset sewing part sews together the convex arc shape formed on the rear edge of the gusset and the concave arc shape formed on the lower edge of the back body. Due to the darts, the part from the gusset to the back body becomes a three-dimensional shape that follows the body shape of the wearer from the upper leg to the lower buttocks, so the hip hemline is effectively suppressed from riding up and digging in. .

In addition, the angle of the corner where the left and right edges of the gusset and the rear edge intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95°, and the angle of the lower corner where the lower edge of the back body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is 90°. Since it is set in the range of ~110°, the left and right edges of the gusset and the left and right leg hollows of the back body are substantially straight, and the sewing line of the gusset sewing part is substantially orthogonal. It will be connected with. Therefore, the leg hollows formed by the left and right edges of the gusset and the left and right leg hollows of the back body have a smooth and good-looking shape, and do not give discomfort to the skin when worn. In addition, the tacking process to prevent unraveling of the end threads generated when sewing the trailing edge of the gusset and the lower edge of the back body and the tacking process to avoid breakage of the sewn part are made so that they follow the leg curve. It can be performed well and visually.

Furthermore, since the side sewn parts that sew the left and right edges of the front body and the left and right edges of the back body are located on the abdomen side, the side sewn parts that occur when the side sewn parts are located on the buttock side Inconvenient situations such as the shape of the part protruding from the outer garment do not occur.

In the second characteristic configuration, in addition to the first characteristic configuration described above, the angle of the upper corner where the left and right edges of the front body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95 °. The angle of the upper corners where the left and right edges of the body and the left and right leg cutouts intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95°, and the center part of the left and right leg cutouts sandwiched between the upper and lower corners of the back body. is formed in the shape of a convex arc.

Near the lower end of the sewn part of the side part of the leg cut, the leg cut part of the front body and the leg cut part of the back body are substantially straight, and the sewing line of the side sewn part is substantially orthogonal. become connected. Therefore, the leg hollows formed by the leg hollows of the front body and the leg hollows of the back body have a smooth and good-looking shape, and do not give discomfort to the skin when worn. Moreover, since the central portion of the left and right leg hollows sandwiched between the upper and lower corners of the back body is formed in a convex arc shape, it is possible to secure a sufficient amount of fabric to cover the buttocks.

In addition to the above-described first or second characteristic configuration, the third characteristic configuration includes the curvature C1 of the rear edge of the gusset portion formed in a convex arc shape, and the lower part of the back body formed in a concave arc shape. The curvature C2 of the edge is set in the range of 0.003≦C1≦0.0065, and the curvature ratio C1/C2 is set in the range of 1.3≦C1/C2≦2.1. in the point.

When setting the curvature of the trailing edge of the gusset portion to be larger than the curvature of the lower edge of the back body, the curvature C1 is set within the range of 0.003≦C1≦0.0065, and the curvature ratio C1/C2 is set to , 1.3≦C1/C2≦2.1, it is possible to effectively prevent the hip hemline from riding up or biting in, and to obtain a good wearing feeling.

A first characteristic configuration of a method for sewing a gusset sewn portion of shorts according to the present invention is a method for sewing a gusset sewn portion of shorts having any one of the first to third characteristic configurations described above. , The rear edge of the gusset and the lower edge of the back body are joined by overlap stitching using interlock stitching, and the empty loop that occurs at the beginning or end of sewing is folded back along the sewn part of the gusset, and from the corner The point is that the bar-tacking process is performed along the linear edge formed by the extending edge and the leg hollow extending from the lower corner.

The left and right edges of the gusset and the left and right leg hollows of the back body are substantially straight, and the sewn lines of the gusset sewn sections are connected in a posture substantially perpendicular to each other. The empty ring folded back along the sewn part of the gusset part is sewn and fixed to the body cloth by bar-tacking. As a result, bar tacking can be performed along the connecting edges of the left and right edges of the gusset portion and the left and right leg hollows of the back body, which are arranged in a substantially straight line, and a good-looking leg hollow is formed. become.

As described above, according to the present invention, while adopting a knitted fabric processed to prevent fraying as the body fabric, the hip hem line is prevented from riding up, and the fraying of the end threads that occur during sewing is prevented. Also, it is possible to provide a method of sewing shorts and a sewn portion of the gusset portion of shorts, in which tack stitching for avoiding breakage of the sewn portion can be performed with good appearance.

(a) is an explanatory view of the front view of the shorts according to the present invention, (b) is an explanatory view of the rear view, and (c) is an explanatory view of the gusset sewn part. Pattern diagram of shorts according to the present invention Fig. 10(a) is a pattern diagram showing the shapes of a gusset portion having a convex arcuate rear edge portion and a concave arcuate lower edge portion of a back body, which constitute a gusset sewn portion; is a pattern diagram when the curvature of the trailing edge and the lower edge is within the proper range, (b) is a pattern diagram when the curvature of the trailing edge is too large, and (c) is a pattern when the curvature of the trailing edge is small. Pattern diagram for when too much Explanatory drawing of respective curvatures C1 and C2 of the gusset portion having a convex arc-shaped rear edge portion and the back body portion having a concave arc-shaped lower edge portion. Explanatory diagram of experimental data showing evaluation results of wearing comfort

Hereinafter, the method of sewing the shorts and the sewn portion of the gusset of the shorts according to the present invention will be described. 1(a) and 1(b) show the appearance of shorts 1 according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 shows a pattern diagram of the shorts 1. As shown in FIG.

The shorts 1 are composed of a front body 2, a back body 3, and a gusset portion 4, and left and right side edges 2b and 2c of the front body 2 and left and right side edges 3b and 3c of the back body 3 are formed on the abdomen, respectively. It is sewn at the armpit sewing part A located on the side. A patch cloth 5 formed to be narrower than the lateral width of the gore portion 4 is arranged on the side surface of the gore portion 4.例文帳に追加

The left and right leg openings 6, 6 are formed by the lower edges 2d, 2e of the front body 2, the left and right edges 4b, 4c of the gusset 4, and the lower edges (leg hollows) 3d, 3e of the back body 3. 7 is formed, and a waist opening 8 is formed by the upper edge 2a of the front body 2 and the upper edge 3a of the back body 3. As shown in FIG. An elastic tape 9 is sewn on the end of the body opening 8 to prevent the garment from slipping down when worn.

As can be understood from the pattern diagram, the front body 2 and the gusset 4 are cut so as to be integrated, and the rear edge 4d of the gusset 4 formed in the shape of a convex arc and the back body formed in the shape of a concave arc. 3 is sewn to the lower edge 3f of 3 at the gusset sewn portion B. In FIG. 2, the patching cloth 5 is arranged on the gusset portion 4, but this is merely illustrated as being superimposed, and in reality the gusset portion 4 and the pressing cloth 5 are separate pieces of knitted fabric. It is configured.

FIG. 1(c) shows the sewn state of the gusset 4 and the patch cloth 5, and the essential part of the gusset sewn portion B. As shown in FIG. The front edge portion 5a of the patch cloth 5 is sewn to the front body 2, and the rear edge portion 5d of the patch cloth 5 is sewn to the gusset sewn portion B together with the rear edge portion 4d of the gusset portion 4 and the lower edge 3f of the back body 3. sewn on.

More specifically, at the gusset sewn portion B, the rear edge 5d of the backing cloth 5, the rear edge 4d of the gusset 4, and the lower edge 3f of the back body 3 are joined by three-needle interlock stitching (double-sided decoration). ), and the empty rings 10, 11 (indicated by broken lines in FIG. 1(c)) generated at the beginning or end of sewing are sewn along the sewn part B of the gusset part. The linear shape formed by the side edges 4b and 4c extending from the corner 41 of the gusset 4 and the lower end side edges (leg cuts) 3d and 3e extending from the lower corner 31 of the back body 3 are bar-tacked along the edges of the It is also possible to employ interlock stitching other than triple-needle interlock stitching.

That is, the left and right edges 4b, 4c of the gusset 4 and the left and right leg hollows 3d, 3e of the back body 3 are substantially straight, and the sewing line of the gusset sewing part B is substantially perpendicular to each other. become connected. The empty rings 10 and 11 folded back along the sewn portion B of the gore portion are sewn and fixed to the body cloth by bar-tacking. As a result, bar tacking can be performed along the connecting edges of the left and right edges 4b, 4c of the gusset 4 and the left and right leg hollows 3d, 3e of the back body 3, which are arranged in a substantially straight line. A well-curved leg is formed.

The curvature C1 of the rear edge portion 4d of the gore portion 4 described above is set larger than the curvature C2 of the lower edge portion 3f of the back body 3, and the left and right edges 4b and 4c of the gore portion 4 and the rear edge portion 4d intersect. The angle of the left and right corners 41, 41 is set in the range of 85 to 95°, preferably in the range of 87 to 93°. The angles of the lower corners 31, 31 are set in the range of 90 to 110°, preferably in the range of 95 to 105°.

At the gusset sewing part B where the convex arc shape formed on the rear edge part 4d of the gusset part 4 and the concave arc shape formed on the lower edge part 3f of the back body 3 are sewn together, the curvature of both arc shapes Due to the darts formed by the difference between C1 and C2, the part connecting the gusset part 4 to the back body 3 has a three-dimensional shape that follows the body shape of the wearer from the upper leg part to the lower buttocks, so that it can be worn from a sitting position to a standing position. Even when you change your posture, it is possible to effectively prevent the hip hemline from riding up and the legs from digging in.

When the curvature C1 of the rear edge portion 4d of the gusset portion 4 formed in a convex arc shape and the curvature C2 of the lower edge portion of the back body formed in a concave arc shape are 0.003≦C1≦0.0065. It is preferable that the curvature ratio C1/C2 is set within the range of 1.3≦C1/C2≦2.1.

When setting the curvature C1 of the rear edge portion 4d of the gusset portion 4 to be larger than the curvature C2 of the lower edge portion 3f of the back body 3, the curvature C1 is set within a range of 0.003≦C1≦0.0065, By setting the curvature ratio C1/C2 in the range of 1.3 ≤ C1/C2 ≤ 2.1, preferably in the range of 1.4 ≤ C1/C2 ≤ 1.7, the hip hem line does not ride up or dig in. can be effectively suppressed, and a good feeling of wearing can be obtained.

As shown in FIG. 4, an angle formed between a line segment l1 connecting the vertex (central portion in the lateral width direction) of the rear edge portion 4d of the gusset portion 4 and the corner portion 41 and a tangential line t1 which is in contact with the rear edge portion 4d at the corner portion 41. is θ1, and the length of the line segment l1 is S1, the curvature C1 of the rear edge portion 4d of the gore portion 4 can be expressed as sin θ1/S1.

In addition, the angle formed by the line segment l2 connecting the vertex of the lower edge portion 3f of the back body 3 (the central portion in the lateral width direction) and the lower corner portion 31 and the tangent line t2 that is in contact with the lower edge portion 3f at the lower corner portion 31 is θ2, and the line Assuming that the length l1 is S2, the curvature C2 of the lower edge 3f of the back body 3 can be expressed as sin θ2/S2.

At this time, it is set within the ranges of 14°≦θ1≦23° and 60 mm≦S1≦75 mm, and is set within the ranges of 5°≦θ2≦15° and 60 mm≦S2≦75 mm. 3≦(sin θ1/S1)/(sin θ2/S2)≦2.1, preferably 1.4≦(sin θ1/S1)/(sin θ2/S2)≦1.7.
At this time, the range that the curvature C1 can take is 0.003≦C1≦0.0065, and the range that the curvature C2 can take is 0.016≦C2≦0.043.

FIG. 3A exemplifies a pattern diagram set to such values. FIG. 3B illustrates a pattern diagram in which the curvature ratio C1/C2 is set to a value greater than 2.1, and FIG. A pattern diagram set to 1 is exemplified.

According to the example of FIG. 3(b), the length of the leg hollow is shortened, and the circumference of the leg is tightened when worn, resulting in a poor wearing feeling. Also, according to the example of FIG. 3(c), the effect of the darts is not so great, and the buttocks are lifted, causing the hem to ride up.

Further, the angles of the corners 41, 41 where the left and right edges 4b, 4c of the gusset 4 and the rear edge 4d intersect are set in the range of 85 to 95°, preferably in the range of 87 to 93°. The angle of the lower corners 31, 31 where the lower edge 3f and the left and right leg recesses 3d, 3e intersect is set in the range of 90 to 110°, preferably in the range of 95 to 105°, so that the gusset 4 The left and right edges 4b, 4c and the left and right leg hollows 3d, 3e of the back body 3 are substantially straight, and the sewing lines of the gusset sewn part B are connected in a posture substantially perpendicular to each other.

Therefore, the leg cuts formed by the left and right edges 4b, 4c of the gusset 4 and the left and right leg cuts 3d, 3e of the back body 3 have a smooth and attractive shape, and give a feeling of discomfort when worn. Nor. Further, the end thread is prevented from unraveling when the rear edge 4d of the gusset 4 and the lower edge 3f of the back body 3 are sewn together, and the end threads are stopped to avoid breakage from the end of the sewn part. The sewing process can be performed along the leg cut, and can be performed with good appearance.

Furthermore, since the side sewn parts A where the left and right edges 2b, 2c of the front body 2 and the left and right edges 3b, 3c of the back body 3 are sewn together are positioned on the abdomen side of the wearer, the side sewn parts A Inconvenient situations such as the shape of the armpit sewing part A protruding from the outer garment, which occurs when the armpit is positioned on the buttock side, do not occur.

Further, the angle of the upper corners 21, 21 where the left and right edges 2b, 2c of the front body 2 and the left and right leg hollows 2d, 2e intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95°, preferably in the range of 87 to 93°. , The angle of the upper corners 32, 32 where the left and right edges 3b, 3c of the back body 3 and the left and right leg hollows 3d, 3e intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95 degrees, preferably in the range of 87 to 93 degrees. In addition, it is preferable that the central portions of the left and right leg recesses 3d, 3e sandwiched between the upper corners 32, 32 and the lower corners 31, 31 of the back body 3 are formed in a convex arc shape. In addition, the angle of a corner used in this specification refers to the intersection angle of two tangent lines that contact two sides forming each corner at the corner.

The leg hollows 2d and 2e of the front body 2 and the leg hollows 3d and 3e of the back body 3 are substantially straight in the vicinity of the lower end of the armpit sewn part A, and the armpit sewn part A is substantially straight. The sewing line is connected in a posture substantially perpendicular to the sewing line.

Therefore, the leg cutouts formed by the leg cutouts 2d, 2e of the front body 2 and the leg cutouts 3d, 3e of the back body have a smooth and good-looking shape, and do not give discomfort to the skin when worn. . Moreover, since the central portions of the left and right leg recesses 3d, 3e sandwiched between the upper corners 32, 32 and the lower corners 31, 31 of the back body 3 are formed in a convex arc shape, a sufficient amount of fabric covering the buttocks is provided. can be secured.

The body fabrics composing the bodies 2, 3 and the gussets 4, 5 are milled knitted fabrics processed to prevent fraying, and the course direction of the knitted fabrics is arranged along the waist circumference. In addition to natural fibers such as cotton as raw yarns for knitting the body fabric, regenerated cellulose fibers such as cupra and viscose rayon, synthetic fibers such as polyester, etc. can be used. It is also possible to employ knitting, cotton sheeting knitting, and the like.

A knitted fabric that has been treated to prevent unraveling is a heat-fusible elastic yarn that has been heat-melted or thermally deformed by knitting a heat-fusible elastic yarn and other yarns, such as cotton yarn, by plating knitting and then heat-setting. It refers to a knitted fabric that is entwined at the interwoven part of yarn, and has the characteristic of avoiding fraying of the yarn at the cut part of the knitted fabric.

Plating knitting is a method in which a plurality of yarns are fed to knitting needles from separate yarn feeders, whereby the arrangement of yarns in each knitting loop is stably determined. Therefore, the plated knitted fabric knitted by feeding the heat-fusible elastic yarn and the other yarns from different yarn feeders to the knitting needles will not be able to mix the heat-fusible elastic yarn and the other yarns in each knitting loop. Since the arrangement of is stable, the heat-fusible elastic yarn can be placed adjacent to all the loops, and if the heat-fusible elastic yarn is melted by heat setting processing, etc., all the loops of the knitted fabric can be reliably unraveled. A stopping function can be realized.

In FIG. 5, shorts of a plurality of sizes (M, L, LL) with different curvatures C1 and C2 were produced, and when a plurality of subjects wore each shorts and changed their postures to various postures, the hips In addition to confirming whether or not the hem line is riding up or digging in, the results of evaluating the feeling of wearing are shown.

Regardless of the size difference, it was confirmed that when the curvature ratio C1/C2 is 1.3 or more and 2.1 or less, the hip hem line does not ride up or dig in, and a good feeling of wearing can be obtained. It was confirmed that the effect is more excellent when C1/C2 is 1.4 or more and 1.7 or less.

The above description is only an example of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by the description. Needless to say, it is possible to appropriately change and design within a certain range.

The present invention suppresses the hip hem line from riding up while adopting a knitted fabric that has been processed to prevent fraying, and prevents fraying of the end threads that occur during sewing and breakage of the sewn part. It is possible to realize shorts in which tack stitching for avoidance can be performed with good appearance.

1: shorts 2: front body 2a: upper edge 2b, 2c: side edge 2d, 2e: lower edge (leg hollow portion)
21: Upper corner 3: Back body 3a: Upper edge 3b, 3c: Side edge 3d, 3e: Lower edge (leg hollow portion)
3f: lower edge 31: lower corner 32: upper corner 4: gusset 4b, 4c: side edge 4d: rear edge 41: corner 5: patch cloth 6, 7: leg opening A: side seam Wearing part B: Gusset sewn part

Claims (4)

The front body, the gusset and the back body are constructed using a knitted fabric processed to prevent fraying, and the left and right edges of the front body and the left and right edges of the back body are sewn on the abdomen side respectively. and a gusset sewn portion to which the rear edge of the gusset portion formed in a convex arc shape and the lower edge portion of the back body formed in a concave arc shape are sewn, wherein
The curvature of the rear edge of the gusset is set larger than the curvature of the lower edge of the back body, and the angle of the corner where the left and right edges and the rear edge of the gusset intersect is in the range of 85 to 95°. The angle of the lower corner where the lower edge of the back body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is set in the range of 90 to 110°. The angle of the upper corner where the left and right edges of the front body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is set in the range of 85 to 95 degrees, and the angle of the upper corner where the left and right edges of the back body and the left and right leg hollows intersect is 2. The shorts according to claim 1, wherein the angle is set in the range of 85 to 95 degrees, and the central portions of the left and right leg hollows sandwiched between the upper and lower corners of the back body are formed in a convex arc shape. When the curvature C1 of the rear edge of the gusset formed in a convex arc shape and the curvature C2 of the lower edge of the back body formed in a concave arc shape are in the range of 0.003 ≤ C1 ≤ 0.0065. 3. The shorts according to claim 1, wherein the curvature ratio C1/C2 is set within a range of 1.3≦C1/C2≦2.1. A method for sewing a gusset sewn portion of shorts according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising:
The rear edge of the gusset and the lower edge of the back body are joined by overlap stitching using interlock stitching,
The empty loops that appear at the start or end of sewing are folded back along the sewn part of the gusset and bartacked along the straight edge formed by the edge extending from the corner and the leg hollow extending from the lower corner. A method of sewing a gusset sewn portion of shorts to be processed.

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