JP2008106050A - Oily cake cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an oily cake cosmetic excellent in luster of a coated film, uniformity, smooth usability, makeup stability with time and shape retainability with less temperature dependency. <P>SOLUTION: This oily cake cosmetic comprises Astrocaryum murumuru butter, an oil cake having a melting point of ≥60°C and further, dextrin fatty acid ester and/or 12-hydroxystearic acid. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

  TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic, and relates to an oily solid cosmetic having a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability at the time of application, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. It is.

  Conventionally, oily solid cosmetics have been studied to produce various sensations by changing the blending amounts of solid oil, semi-solid oil, and liquid oil. In particular, in recent years, oily solid cosmetics having a uniform coating film and a gloss have been demanded in the market, and various developments have been made.

As a technique for providing a glossy cosmetic, a technique for blending a polyethylene wax and a liquid oil having one —OH group in the structure (for example, see Patent Document 1), polydimerlinoleic acid dimer dilino A technique for blending a rail (for example, see Patent Document 2), an ester obtained by esterifying an oligomer ester of a dimer acid and a divalent or higher alcohol with a monohydric alcohol or / and a monovalent carboxylic acid, or a dimer diol And a technique for blending an ester of an oligomer ester of a divalent or higher carboxylic acid with a monovalent alcohol or / and a monovalent carboxylic acid (see, for example, Patent Document 3), etc. Techniques for achieving film uniformity include oligomers of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid, microcrostalin wax and polyethylene. A technique (for example, refer to Patent Document 4) of blending ren wax and / or ceresin, a hydroxy compound having at least one hydroxyl group and a liquid ester oil having an IOB value of 0.1 to 0.4 is disclosed. As a technique for obtaining a smooth feeling of use, a technique for combining a polyoxyalkylene group-containing silicone compound, a dextrin fatty acid ester and an ethylene copolymer (for example, see Patent Document 5), a technique for combining a dextrin fatty acid ester and a glycerin fatty acid ester (for example, , Refer to Patent Document 6).
In addition, as a technique using murmuru fat, a technique of blending into a cleaning rod-shaped composition (see, for example, Patent Documents 7 and 8), an extract of a plant belonging to the genus Astrocarium as a plant extract having an anti-radical type action is used as oil. A technique (for example, refer to Patent Document 9) and the like for blending in an aqueous system of topical cosmetics such as water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions is disclosed.
JP 2001-158718 A JP 2002-128623 A JP 2004-256515 A JP 2004-107355 A JP 2004-224739 A JP 2004-300093 A JP-T-2001-517258 JP-T-2006-513287 Special table 2003-522730 gazette

  However, the techniques of Patent Documents 1 to 3 do not provide sufficient uniformity of the coating film, and the techniques of Patent Documents 4 to 6 do not always satisfy the gloss of the coating film. In addition, Patent Documents 7 to 9 did not describe oily solid cosmetics. There has been a demand for an oily solid cosmetic material that has a uniform coating film, is glossy, has a smooth usability during coating, has shape retention ability, and has excellent makeup sustainability.

  Under such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive research to solve the above problems, and as a result, in oily solid cosmetics, blended a combination of murmuring fat having a melting point of 25 ° C to 37 ° C and a solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C or higher. It discovered that oily solid cosmetics solved the said subject, and came to complete this invention.

That is, the present invention comprises the following components (a) and (b):
(A) Murumuru fat (b) An oily solid cosmetic characterized by comprising a solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher is provided.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an oily solid cosmetic that has a uniform coating film, is glossy, has a smooth usability during application, has a shape retention ability, and is excellent in makeup sustainability.

The present invention will be described in detail below.
The component (a) murmulla fat used in the present invention is the INCI name ASTROCARYUMU MURUMURU BUTTER, which is obtained by purifying oils and fats obtained by squeezing from the seeds of murmul palm (Atrocarum murumuru) that grows naturally in the subtropics. Triglyceride having a melting point of 25 ° C. to 37 ° C. containing lauric acid and myristic acid.
As for the murmuru fat used for the component (a), purified murmuru butter (manufactured by Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) and the like can be mentioned as commercial products.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (a) murmuru fat used for this invention is not specifically limited, 1 mass%-90% (henceforth only showing%) are preferable among all the components, and 5-50% is still more preferable. If it is this range, a coating film will be uniform and glossy, and the thing excellent in the point of the smooth usability at the time of application | coating will be obtained.

  The component (b) solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher used in the present invention is a component that improves the uniformity and shape retention of the cosmetic film in the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention, and is usually used as a solid oil in cosmetics. Any of these can be used. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as ethylene / propylene copolymer, polyethylene wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, paraffin wax, and esters such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax A wax etc. are mentioned, These can be used 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed. Among these, when an ethylene / propylene copolymer is used, a coating film excellent in uniformity and shape retention can be obtained.

The blending amount of the solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher of the component (b) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably from 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 3 to 15% in all components. If it is this range, the thing excellent in the point of the uniformity of a coating film and the makeup lasting will be obtained.
Solid oils having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher used for the component (b) are commercially available products such as EP-700, PERFORMALENE 500 (both manufactured by Baker Petrolite), ceresin 810 (manufactured by Nikko Rica), and candelilla wax (Noda wax). Etc.).

The component (c) dextrin fatty acid ester used in the present invention is an oil-soluble, linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 24 (preferably 14 to 18) carbon atoms, and an average degree of polymerization of 10 to 10. An ester compound with 50 (preferably 20-30) dextrins. Specifically, dextrin palmitate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate, coconut oil fatty acid dextrin, dextrin laurate and the like can be used, and these can be used singly or in combination. As a commercial product, Leo Pearl KL, Leo Pearl TL, Leo Pearl TT (all manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) and the like can be used.
12-Hydroxystearic acid is a fatty acid produced by catalytic reduction of ricinoleic acid contained in castor oil in an amount of 80 to 85% with hydrogen gas, and is a white, waxy solid. Acid (manufactured by Ito Oil Co., Ltd.) can be used.
The amount of component (c) dextrin fatty acid ester and / or 12-hydroxystearic acid used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1% to 20%, more preferably 0.5 to 10%, based on all components. . If it is this range, the thing excellent in the point of the smooth usability at the time of application | coating will be obtained.

In the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention, various components other than the essential components, for example, powders, surfactants, components (a), (b), as necessary, within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. , Oily ingredients other than (c), UV absorbers, moisturizers, film forming agents, anti-fading agents, antioxidants, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, lame agents, fragrances, etc. can do.
The powder component is not particularly limited by the shape of a sphere, plate, needle, etc., the particle size of a fumes, fine particles, pigment grade, etc., the particle structure of porous, nonporous, etc. Glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders, and the like. Specific examples include white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate, colored inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, carbon black, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen and ultramarine, talc and muscovite. , Phlogopite, phlogopite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, silica White body powder such as aluminum silicate, magnesium magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated bismuth oxychloride, Iron oxide mica titanium, bitumen treated mica , Carmine-treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, luster powder such as fish scale foil, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resin, cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, styrene -Copolymer resin such as acrylic copolymer resin, organic polymer resin powder such as polypropylene resin, silicone resin and urethane resin, organic low molecular weight powder such as zinc stearate and N-acyl lysine, starch, silk powder, cellulose Natural organic powders such as powder, organic pigment powders such as red 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203, orange 204, blue 404, yellow 401, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Green No. 3, Blue No. 1, etc. Organic pigment powders such as ruthenium, barium or aluminum lake, or metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder, silver powder, fine titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium dioxide containing titanium dioxide Examples thereof include composite powders such as silicon and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide. These powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more. These powders are one or two of fluorine compound, silicone compound, metal soap, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, hydrocarbon, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, ester, wax, wax, surfactant and the like. Surface treatment may be performed using seeds or more.

  As the surfactant, any surfactant generally used in cosmetics may be used, and examples thereof include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.

  The oil component is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil agent that is usually used in cosmetics. Regardless of the origin of animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, etc., and the properties of semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile oil, etc., hydrocarbon Oils such as oils, fats and oils, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, and lanolin derivatives. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, α-olefin oligomer, squalane and petrolatum, oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate , Esters such as isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribethenate, pentaerythritol ester of rosin acid, di (N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (phytostearyl)・ 2-octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl octyldodecyl), etc. Amino acid oils, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and other higher alcohols, high degree of polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene alkyl Silicones such as methylpolysiloxane / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, alkoxy-modified polysiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, fluorine-based oils such as perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, perfluoropolyether, lanolin, lanolin acetate, Examples include lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl and lanolin alcohol, and one or more of these can be used.

  Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, and the like.

  As the humectant, as an aqueous component used for the purpose of imparting a moisture effect, any component that is soluble in water and water may be used. In addition to water, for example, protein, mucopolysaccharide, collagen, elastin, keratin, etc. Polysaccharides such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin and polyglycerin, aloe vera, witch hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, Examples include plant extracts such as rose.

Examples of the antioxidant include α-tocopherol and ascorbic acid.
Examples of the beauty component include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, herbal medicines and the like.
Examples of the preservative include paraoxybenzoic acid ester and phenoxyethanol.

  The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to any cosmetic as long as it is in a solid dosage form. For example, lipstick, lip balm, foundation, blusher, eye color, eyeliner, knead perfume, makeup remover, hair wax In particular, when used for lipsticks, the coating film is uniform and glossy, has a smooth usability during coating, has shape retention ability, and has an excellent makeup sustainability.

The method for producing the oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, the components (a), (b) and (c) are heated and mixed at 90 ° C. to 110 ° C., and the other components are added to be uniform. And then filled into a container.
Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited at all by these.

Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3: Lipstick (oil-like solid stick shape)
Lipsticks having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following production methods: (a) gloss of the coating film, (b) uniformity of the coating film, (c) smooth usability during coating, (d) makeup Each item of sustainability and (e) shape retention ability at 45 ° C. was evaluated and determined by the following evaluation methods and criteria, and the results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (10) were uniformly heated and mixed at 110 ° C., and then components (11) to (17) were added and mixed uniformly.
B. A was filled into a container to obtain a product.

(Evaluation methods)
Regarding (i) to (d), each sample is subjected to a use test by 20 specialist panels, and each panel member evaluates and scores in the following (1) 7-point absolute evaluation. The average value was calculated from the total score, and judged according to the following (2) four-step criteria. However, the makeup durability of item (d) was evaluated after 4 hours of normal life after application.
As for (e), the shape of the filled molded product after standing for 2 weeks under a horizontal placement condition at 45 ° C. was visually observed, and judged according to the following (3) four-step criteria.

(Evaluation items: (I) Gloss of coating film, (B) Uniformity of coating film, (C) Smooth usability during coating, (D) Makeup durability)
(1) 7-level absolute evaluation:
(Score): (Evaluation)
6: Very good 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad 0: Very bad (2) Four-step criteria <Evaluation average value> (Judgment)
More than 5 points: ◎
Over 3 points and below 5 points: ○
More than 1 point and 3 points or less: △
1 point or less: ×

(Evaluation item: (e) Shape retention ability at 45 ° C)
(3) Four-step criteria (Judgment) (State)
◎: No change ○: Slightly bent △: Slightly bent ×: Broken

As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the oily solid lipsticks of Examples 1 to 9 of the present invention are more glossy than the oily solid lipsticks of Comparative Examples 1 to 4, and the uniformity of the coating film. It was excellent in all of smooth usability upon application, makeup durability, and shape retention ability at 45 ° C.
On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which the component (a) was not blended, a satisfactory product was not obtained particularly in terms of gloss of the coating film and smooth usability during coating. In Comparative Example 2 in which petrolatum (melting point is close to that of murmul fat) instead of murmul fat of component (a), no satisfactory product was obtained in terms of gloss of the coating film and smooth usability during coating. . In Comparative Example 3 in which polybutene (formerly blended with the expectation of gloss effect) was blended in place of the murmul fat of component (a), the uniformity of the coating film, smooth usability during coating, at 45 ° C No satisfactory product was obtained in terms of shape retention. Further, in Comparative Example 3 in which the solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher as the component (b) is not blended, the coating film uniformity, makeup, and satisfactory shape retention at 45 ° C. cannot be obtained. It was.

Example 10: Eye color (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 70
(2) Ethylene / propylene copolymer * Note 2 3
(3) Liquid paraffin 12.9
(4) Silicic anhydride 3
(5) Mica titanium 10
(6) Bengala 1
(7) Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (3) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (4) to (7) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The eye color of Example 10 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during coating, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. .

Example 11: Lip balm (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 20
(2) Liquid paraffin 33.9
(3) Polyethylene wax * Note 15
(4) Vaseline 30
(5) Rosemary extract 1
(6) Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (4) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (5) to (6) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The lip balm of Example 11 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during application, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. .

Example 12: Foundation (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 5
(2) Squalane 54.7
(3) Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 15
(4) Ethylene / propylene copolymer * Note 2 10
(5) Dextrin palmitate 2
(6) Titanium oxide 1
(7) Bengala 1
(8) Yellow iron oxide 1
(9) Black iron oxide 0.2
(10) Talc 10
(11) Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (5) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (6) to (11) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The foundation of Example 12 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during coating, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability.

Example 13: Blusher (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 70
(2) Micro crostalin wax 5
(3) Liquid paraffin 11.8
(4) Silicic anhydride 3
(5) Mica titanium 10
(6) Red 202 No. 0.1
(7) Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (3) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (4) to (7) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The blusher of Example 13 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during application, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability.

Example 14: Eyeliner (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 1
(2) Ethylene / propylene copolymer * Note 2 5
(3) Light liquid isoparaffin 58.9
(4) Hardened castor oil 15
(5) Mica 10
(6) Black iron oxide 10
(7) Hyaluronic acid 0.1
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (4) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (5) to (7) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The eyeliner of Example 14 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during coating, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. .

Example 15: Kneaded perfume (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 90
(2) Ethylene / propylene copolymer * Note 2 2
(3) Talc 6
(4) Fragrance 2
(Production method)
A. Ingredients (1) and (2) are uniformly heated and mixed at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (3) to (4) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The knead perfume of Example 15 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability at the time of application, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. .

Example 16: Makeup remover (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 20
(2) Liquid paraffin 30
(3) Polyethylene wax * Note 15
(4) Vaseline 30
(5) Sericite 5
(Production method)
A. Components (1) to (4) are heated and mixed uniformly at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredient (5) is uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The makeup remover of Example 16 of the present invention was excellent in terms of smooth use feeling during application.

Example 17: Hair wax (oil-based solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Murumuru Fat * Note 1 54.5
(2) Ethylene / propylene copolymer * Note 20
(3) Sericite 10
(4) Talc 10
(5) Silicic anhydride 5
(6) Fragrance 0.5
(Production method)
A. Ingredients (1) and (2) are uniformly heated and mixed at 90 ° C.
B. Ingredients (3) to (6) are uniformly mixed with A.
C. B is filled and molded into a product.
The hair wax of Example 17 of the present invention was an oily solid cosmetic with a uniform coating film, gloss, smooth usability during coating, shape retention ability, and excellent makeup sustainability. .

Claims (3)

The following components (a) and (b);
(A) Murumuru fat (b) An oily solid cosmetic comprising a solid oil having a melting point of 60 ° C. or higher. 2. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising component (c) dextrin fatty acid ester and / or 12-hydroxystearic acid. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the solid oil having a component (b) melting point of 60 ° C or higher is an ethylene / propylene copolymer.