JP2005515318A - Iridescent cloth made of polyamide yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

The iridescent woven fabric comprises a cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn and an acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn. Acid dyeable yarns have more than 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups (AEG _acid ) per 1000 kilograms of polymer.

Description

Cross-reference of related applications

  This application claims the benefit of priority of provisional application No. 60 / 351,023, filed Jan. 23, 2002.

  The present invention relates to a cloth exhibiting an iridescent appearance. The fabric comprises a cationic dyeable polyamide yarn and an acid dyeable polyamide yarn.

  Iridescent fabrics are known. These fabrics have an appearance ranging from a two-color effect to a rainbow color. In general, the color of an iridescent cloth depends on the viewing angle. The iridescent fabric used for clothing is viewed from multiple angles when the garment is integrated with the wearer's body. As a result, multiple colors will stand out to the viewer.

  U.S. Patent No. 6,057,049 (Kobsa et al.) Discloses an iridescent fabric. Kobsa fabric includes a single composite multifilament yarn having an annular cross section with a concentric sheath (skin) and a core. The sheath and core portions of the Kofusa composite filament are made of acid dyeable nylon 66 and basic dyeable nylon 66. Alternatively, the sheath and the core of the composite filament of kubusa are each made of acid dyeable nylon 66 and basic dyeable polyester (polyethylene terephthalate polymer containing 2% by weight of dimethyl ester of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid). is there. In either case of the Kobsa filament, the sheath and core portions are dyed together in the same dyebath but are susceptible to receiving different dyes separately. In addition, Cobba relies on spinning composite filaments with complex and expensive composite spin packs. These packs need to feed two molten polymer streams and combine them to the proper geometry.

  Patent Document 2 (Takahashi et al.) Discloses a warp knitting yarn that acquires the color tone of a cloth by the interference and effect of "improved gloss and iridescence". The Takahashi fabric is warp knitted, and preferably all comprises a base weave yarn dyed black or a base yarn of the color and complementary color of the yarn to be inserted. The yarn can be either natural fiber, synthetic fiber (eg, polyester or nylon), or semi-synthetic fiber (eg, rayon or acetate). In order to realize the color effect described above, Takahashi's method requires not only a process for dyeing a conventional cloth but also a plurality of processes for coloring a polymer prior to spinning. Examples of dyeing include dyeing using a cationic dye for the polyester filament for the basic weaving yarn, and dyeing using a basic dye and a disperse dye for the polyester filament for the weaving yarn to be inserted. Either one of them uses a cationic dye. However, the range of cationic dye color combinations available is limited, and because standard nylon lacks inherent cationic dyeability, cationic dyes are rarely used in nylon yarn apparel applications.

  Another known means for realizing iridescence on a woven or knitted fabric is disclosed by Patent Document 3 (Asano et al.). Asano discloses a complex, interleaved filament structure made from a stack of various organic polymers having different refractive indices and resulting in visible light reflection and interference, or ultraviolet and infrared reflection. The above effect can be used for a woven fabric that produces colors having different hues and brightness depending on the viewing angle. Asano et al.'S method requires an expensive and precise multi-component spin pack and a composite polymer stream to prepare alternating laminates of different organic polymers to make this type of laminated synthetic filaments.

US Pat. No. 5,741,590 US Pat. No. 6,279,356 B1 US Pat. No. 6,326,094 B1

  Known iridescent fabrics are made from synthetic polymeric fibers with acid and cationic dyeability. In general, the iridescent color in the above known fabrics is realized, for example, by multifilament yarns comprising acidic dyeable nylon and cyclic cross-section filaments of cationic dyeable polyester. Furthermore, the acid dyeable nylon together with the cationic dyeable nylon can be used in the same way, with one of the yarns having a special vivid luster that is plated over the surface of the fabric. However, the above prior art iridescent fabrics, which are almost all nylon fabrics, use standard acid dye nylon yarns. Such standard acid dye nylon yarns do not retain acid dyes particularly well, so a greater amount of acid dyes will color the cationic dyeable yarn. Therefore, dyeing these prior art fabrics in a single dye bath requires a dyeing aid that avoids the reaction between the two dyes.

  The iridescent fabric of the present invention comprises a deeply acid dyed nylon yarn, which is obtained with a high concentration of amine end groups. Thus, it is possible to dye the fabric in a single dye bath without using a dyeing aid that avoids the reaction between the acid dye and the cationic dye. The deeply acid dyed nylon polymer yarns used herein react quickly and completely with the acid dye in the dye bath, making it impossible to react with the acid dye and other dyes present. As a result, color transfer to the yarn for cationic dyeing is minimized and the need to use dyeing aids is reduced, if not eliminated.

  As mentioned above, it is very rare, as mentioned above, that the present invention allows the use of cationic dyes with nylon. As a result, the iridescent fabric of the present invention optionally has a portion of spandex elastic fiber, but is almost all nylon. The fabrics of the present invention are very well suited for textile fabric applications where almost all nylon fabrics (eg, pantyhose and many new seamless garments) are desired.

  In addition, the use of nylon acid yarns that are deeply acid dyed minimizes color transfer to the yarns that are cationically dyed, so the iridescent fabric of the present invention is dyed in a single dyebath using acid and cationic dyes. Can be done. Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to dye a fabric in a single process without depending on a plurality of yarn dyeing processes.

  In addition, the method of making the iridescent fabric of the present invention is based on conventional nylon melt spinning technology and does not rely on multicomponent spinning packs or stock solution colored polymers.

  The present invention is an iridescent woven fabric. Suitable fabrics are knitted fabrics and seamless knitted fabrics. The fabric of the present invention is generally shown at 10 in FIG. The fabric comprises two types of polyamide multifilament yarn. The yarn is combined after the fabric construction. The iridescent cloth of the present invention has two sides. That is, the single component yarn occupies the majority on one side of the fabric. Accordingly, in the iridescent fabric, as shown in FIG. 2, a kind of yarn substantially occupies most of the first surface 20 of the fabric, and a second yarn substantially occupies most of the second surface 30 of the fabric. Made to occupy. The iridescent appearance of the fabric of the present invention may be one of a contrasting color or a complementary color.

  The polyamide multifilament yarn is a cationic dyeable (also called basic dyeable) nylon polymer yarn or an acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn. The yarns differ in dyeability and acceptability for various types of dyes typically used in nylon. Nylon or aliphatic polyamide yarns are known to have at least about 85% polymer chain bonding between repeating amide groups being aliphatic groups and strongly dyed by so-called acid dyes, Standard nylon polymer is cited as acid dyeability. As described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,164,261, it is possible to impart acid-fast dye properties to nylon by incorporating sulfonate groups within the polymer. U.S. Pat. No. 5,164,261 teaches a polyamide copolymerized with a small amount of about 1-4% by weight of sodium salt of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid. Herein, a nylon polymer modified with a sulfonic acid salt containing a dicarboxylic acid is used to prepare a yarn called basic dyeability, cationic dyeability, or simply a cat-dye yarn. The above names are due to the chemical groups responsible for the resistance to acid dyes that give the yarn the ability to be cationically dyed. Cationic dyes are known for their use in certain garment nylon yarns, but are rarely used compared to acid dyes.

  Suitable synthetic polymeric fibers that can be processed in acidic and basic dyeable polyamides and that can be melt spun with filaments of various cross-sections according to the present invention include nylon 66 (polyhexamethylene adipamide), Nylon 6 (polycaproamide), nylon 7 (polyenanthamide), nylon 612 (polyhexamethylene dodecamide), nylon 11, nylon 12, and nylon 66 and nylon 6 copolyamides (hexamethylenediamine, ε-caprolactam) And polymers prepared from adipic acid, polymers prepared from adipic acid, hexamethylenediamine and isophthalic acid, or prepared from adipic acid, hexamethylenediamine and 2-methyl-pentamethylenediamine or 2-ethyl-tetramethylenediamine Polymer, etc.): up to 15% by weight (eg, 0.5-15% by weight, etc.), polyhexamethylene isophthalamide or poly- (2-methyl) pentamethylene adipamide or poly- (2-ethyl) tetramethylene azide Nylon 66 copolyamides containing Pamide, nylon 6 copolyamides containing Nylon 66 up to 15% by weight (eg, 0.5-15% by weight, etc.).

  Usually, the nylon polymers and copolyamides described in the previous paragraph are essentially acidic dyeable. The number of free amine end groups (AEG) in the polymer is at least 25 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer. A high concentration of free amine end groups is desired to make the polymer more intensely acidic dyeing. Suitable elevated AEG concentrations for yarns capable of acid dyeing are over 35 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer. 60-130 gram equivalent per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer is preferred. The appearance of the fabric can be achieved using a concentration of amine end groups of up to about 130 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of polymer in the acidic dyeable polymer component. More specifically, an AEG concentration of about 70 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer relative to the acid dyeable yarn polymer is most preferred.

Yarn polymers capable of basic dyeing are prepared with cationic dye modifiers copolymerized in the polymer. US Pat. No. 5,164,261 (Windley) describes the preparation of such cationic dye-modified polyamides. In the present invention, it is preferred to modify the polymer during polymerization with 0.5-4% dimethyl ester of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid, which is a suitable cationic dye modifier. Typically, a known amount of polyamide precursor salt and the weighed sodium salt of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl ester are combined in an autoclave using standard polymerization procedures known in the art. A more suitable amount of modified cationic dye present in the polymer is about 0.75 to about 3% by weight as determined by total sulfur analysis of the polymer. The above amounts of cationic dye modifier are reported to be equivalent to sulfonate groups. Suitable sulfonate group concentrations are at least 15 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer, up to about 150 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer, and preferably above 30 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer. A suitable iridescent fabric cationic dyeable nylon yarn has an amine end group concentration of no more than 40 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer. It is preferable to have a concentration difference (ρ) of 0 or more between the sulfonate end group (S _cat ) and the amine end group (AEG _cat ).
ρ = S _cat −AEG _cat ≧ 0 Equation 1

  Each yarn comprises a filament having either an annular, non-annular, trilobal or diaboro cross-sectional shape. A three-leaf shape is shown in FIG. 1A and a diabolo shape is shown in FIG. 1B. The trilobal shape can be further characterized by a modification rate (M) in the range of 1.5-4. As shown in FIG. 1A, the M ratio is defined as the radius A of the largest circumscribed circle that touches the tip of the cross section divided by the radius B of the smallest inscribed circle. The M ratio for the Diabolo cross section is in the range of 1.5-6 and is defined as the maximum length A of the cross section divided by the minimum dimension B as shown in FIG.

  In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention, either cationic dyeable or acid dyeable nylon yarns have exceptionally bright gloss and achieve a polymer mating agent concentration of 0.1 wt% or less. The brighter and brighter threads occupy the majority on the first side of the fabric. It is preferred that the bright, high gloss nylon polymer yarn comprises a filament having a non-circular cross-sectional shape. Three-leaf and Diaboro cross-sectional shapes are more preferred. The other darker thread may have any cross-sectional shape. A polyamide yarn having a dull luster is useful but is not an essential modification to achieve the effect of the iridescent fabric of the present invention. The darker yarn has a matting agent concentration of about 0.8% by weight or more, preferably about 1.5%. For any of the polyamide polymers disclosed herein, titanium dioxide is a more preferred matting agent. Other matting agents (such as zinc sulfide) for polyamide polymers are also suitable.

  As is known in the art, a plurality of yarns can be covered so that the double-sided or laminating effect of the fabric is realized. A commercially available seamless knitting machine capable of covering a plurality of yarns (split yarn knitting) is Lonati S., which produced a single and double knitting type seamless knitting machine of SANTONI. p. a. Made by (Italy). Seamless knitting machines are also available from San Giacomo and Monarch, as is known to those skilled in the art. In addition to the double-sided seamless knitting structure, conventional double-sided knitted knitting structure technology may be used, or other double-sided cloth weaving methods, warp knitting methods, circular knitting methods, or flat knitting methods may be used. It is a useful method for making the inventive fabric.

  The yarns of the present invention are prepared by known methods of making FDY (fully drawn yarn), POY (partially drawn yarn), and LOY (slightly drawn yarn). In the case of FDY (fully drawn yarn), in-line processing on the spinning machine is a process of rotating around a series of godet rolls (feed rolls) several times, avoiding the above-mentioned yarn slippage on the rolls A step of sufficiently rotating, a step of sending the spun yarn onto another series of rolls (stretching rolls) that rotate at a speed sufficient to stretch the yarn to a predetermined amount (its stretching ratio), and finally heat treatment to 4800 m It consists of a process of relaxing the yarn with a steam box before winding at a speed of / min. In some cases, alternative heat treatment methods (eg, hot rolls, etc.) can be used, and a series of additional godet rolls can be placed between the draw roll and the winder to control tension while heat treating or relaxing the yarn. It may be incorporated. Optionally, a second use of spin finish and / or additional crossing may be performed before the final winding step.

  In the case of POY, the only additional in-line process is to make an S-wrap on two godet rolls rotating at the same speed and then send the yarn to a high speed winder (running at 4800 m / min) Consists of. The use of S-wrap is beneficial for controlling tension, but is not essential. The above POY may be used directly as a uniform yarn for weaving or knitting or as a feedstock for weaving.

  In the case of LOY, the spinning procedure is similar to POY except that a winding speed of 1000 m / min or less is used. These yarns require further processing, for example by a second step on a conventional twist drawing machine or drawing winder.

  Production of the yarns of the present invention of either polymer type, acid dyeability and basic dyeability may follow the same spinning procedure using the known methods described above. First, the appropriate type of polyamide granule is fed to the melting device, the molten polymer is sent to the filter pack with a metering pump, extruded through a spinneret containing a finely shaped capillary orifice, and the desired filament at the spinning temperature. A cross section may be provided. The cross-sectional shapes described above can include annular, non-annular, trilobal and diaboro. The spinning temperature can range from 270 ° C to 300 ° C. "S-wrap" on two godet rolls cooled by quenching air that regulates the bundle of filaments emerging from the spinneret, treated with a spin finish (oil and water emulsion), optionally interwoven, and rotated at the same speed After feeding in a shape that controls tension, it may be sent to a yarn high speed winder and wound at 4800 m / min. In some cases, POY prepared as described above may be used directly as a uniform yarn for weaving or knitting or as a feedstock for stretched woven fabrics.

  Furthermore, according to the present invention, a method for producing an iridescent woven fabric is provided. The method comprises dyeing a fabric comprising a cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn and an acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn in a single dye bath. At least one acid dye and at least one cationic dye are present in the dyebath. As described above with respect to the fabric, the preferred enhanced AEG concentration for the acid dyed polymer used to make the filaments of the present invention is over 35 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer. 60-130 gram equivalent per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer is preferred. To achieve the appearance characteristics of the fabric, amine end group concentrations of up to about 130 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer may be used for the acid dyeable polymer component. More specifically, an AEG concentration of about 70 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer is preferred for the acid dyeable yarn polymer. Due to the high concentration of amine end groups described above, the fabric can be dyed in a single dye bath without the use of dyeing aids that avoid the reaction of acid and cationic dyes.

Test Method The relative viscosity (RV) of the nylon polymer was measured according to ASTM D789-86 and measured in the formic acid aqueous solution of 90% formic acid and 25% formic acid at 25 ° C relative to the viscosity of the aqueous formic acid itself measured at the same viscosity unit of 25 ° C. It is the ratio of the viscosity of a 8.4 wt% nylon polymer solution.

The titration method described in the above-mentioned titration method described in Volume 17 pages 293 to 294 of "Encyclopedia of Industrial Analysis" (John Wiley & Sons Inc., 1973). The concentration of amine end groups (AEG) of the nylon polymer and the concentration of carboxyl end groups of the polymer were measured. In general, the method of measuring AEG concentration is to take a 1-2 gram sample of polymer, yarn or fabric (depending on the estimated concentration of amine end groups) and a mixture of phenol and methanol (volume ratio 8). : 2) With dissolving the above sample in 50 ml. The above solution is filtered to remove matting agents and insoluble materials. The above supernatant liquid has a total volume of 100 ml, and the supernatant liquid is titrated with perchloric acid evaluated with a primary standard alkali. The amount of standard perchloric acid consumed in the titration is known in the art but is recorded by potentiometer or acid indicator endpoint. The above amount of perchloric acid correlates with the amine end group concentration depending on the weight of the selected sample. Gram equivalents per polyamide of ¹⁰⁶ grams, reports the concentration of AEG.

The free carboxylic acid groups are quantified by titration with standard alkali hydroxide according to the same line as the quantification of AEG. The amount of standard alkali hydroxide consumed correlates with the number of carboxyl end groups in the polymer in addition to the weight of the polyamide sample. The carboxyl end is reported in gram equivalents per 10 ⁶ grams of polyamide.

  The concentration of sulfonate groups in the basic dyeable polymer used in the present invention can be found by analytical methods known to those skilled in the art. In general, a weighed sample is taken and dissolved in a solvent system suitable for the polyamide. The total sulfur content is determined from the concentration of the total sulfate after oxidation by a method known in the art. Alternatively, x-ray fluorescence using a calibrated standard is appropriate for total sulfur analysis. Total sulfur is presumed to be entirely due to the sulfonate groups added during the polymerization.

Example 1-Part A
A first nylon multifilament flat yarn (unprocessed yarn) was prepared from a polymer modified so as to have a cation dyeability in a bright glossy trilobal cross-sectional shape. The total decitex of the yarn was 22, and there were 9 filaments per yarn. The yarn was spun from nylon 66 polymer (poly-hexamethylene adipamide) containing 1.5% by weight of 5-sulfo-isophthalic acid as a cationic dye modifier. The polymer has a formic acid RV 31.5, a titanium dioxide matting agent content of 0.02% by weight, an amine end group concentration of 42 grams equivalent per 1000 kg of polymer, and a sulfonate group concentration of 55 grams per 1000 kg of polymer. Equivalent. In this example, the difference in concentration between the sulfonate group and the amine group end of the cationic dyeable yarn is shown by Equation 1 and is as follows.
ρ = S _cat -AEG _cat = 55-42 = 13

  The polymer was melted and extruded through a spinneret having a plurality of trilobal capillaries maintained at 279.5 ° C. The extruded filament was cooled in a stream of air, joined to the yarn and finished with an oil / water emulsion using known methods. The above yarn was first contacted with the feed roll and then with the stretching roll assembly, and stretched 1.5 times. The drawn yarn was wound up at a speed of 4800 meters / minute. The nylon yarn prepared by the above method was easily dyed with a cationic dye. The same yarn was hardly affected by standard acid dyes. The toughness of the yarn was 48 cN / tex, the breaking elongation was 36.5%, and the boiling water shrinkage was 7.1%. The modification rate (M) of the three-leaf cross section was 1.56, and was measured as the diameter ratio between the circumscribed circle and the inscribed circle as shown in FIG. 1A.

The second yarn was nylon coated LYCRA® spandex. The 22 dtex Lycra (R) spandex was subjected to a single coating at 1600 revolutions / meter in a standard industrial process. The nylon component was a strongly acidic dyed POY of 26 dtex 14 filaments drawn in a separate process to give 22 dtex flat yarn (raw yarn). Individual filament cross sections were annular. The deep acid dyeing POY was from 40RV (formic acid) nylon 66 polymer. The amine end group concentration (AEG _acid ) was increased to 70 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of polymer by known polymerization methods. The titanium dioxide matting agent content was 1.5% by weight. The coated yarn had the extensibility imparted by Lycra® spandex and an appearance determined by the nylon component visible on the surface. The nylon yarn was immediately dyed with a standard acid dye, and there was no coloring (stain) due to the cationic dye.

  The pantyhose was made by knitting the first nylon yarn and the second (coated) yarn together in an alternating course structure on a 1 × 1 selection, 400-needle LANATI 404 knitting machine. The structure is an alternating course structure of 22f14 coated flat yarn on one feed (feedstock) and bright flat yarn with 22f9 cationic dyeability on the other feed. The design was a 1 × 1 knit tack selection on LYCRA® spandex coated yarn. In the above structure, the bright 22f9 yarn covers the front of the garment.

  The clothing was then dyed in a single dye bath using two different dyes (one acid dye, the other a cationic dye, selected by their contrasting colors). The cationic dye was bright red Maxilon Red 3GLN (from CIBA) and was 0.4% by weight based on the cationic dyeable nylon component yarn in the knitted garment. The acid dye is a bright blue-blue acid dye, Acidol br. Blue M-5G (from BASF), based on acid dyeable nylon component yarns in knitted garments, 0.4% by weight. The dyeing machine was a Roachs Pyrotec 2002 (Roaches International LTD) using a 1 liter stainless steel sealed beaker. At the beginning, the dyebath and fabric are at 30 ° C. and based on the total weight of the fabric, 5.0% sodium sulfate (Glauber salt) and 0.1% Tinegal MR (cationic dye inhibitor for basic dyes) (From Ciba), a cationic dye was added. The water bath was adjusted to a dye liquor: fabric ratio of 28: 1 and a pH of 6.0. The temperature was raised to 60 ° C. at 1.0 ° C./min and kept at 60 ° C. for 10 minutes. The cooling ramp to return to 35 ° C was set at 2.5 ° C / min. This avoided that the cationic dye was consumed on the cationic dyeable yarn. To this same dyebath was added an anionic dye mixed with 1.0% Sandogen NH (a dye inhibitor for anionic dyes, from Clariant) of the total weight of the product. The dyebath temperature was raised at 1.0 ° C./min to 98 ° C. and kept at this temperature for 45 minutes. The dyebath was allowed to cool to 50 ° C. at 7.0 ° C./min. A sample of knitted fabric was removed, rinsed with cold water, and dried without rotary drying.

  The dry garment was examined by a committee of fabric dyeing and finishing specialists. It was agreed that the above garment had a very unique and fascinating iridescent appearance perceived on the front where the very glossy thread stands out. The color of the cloth was a soft mauve color that varies considerably depending on the viewing angle, especially in the folds of the cloth. The thickness of the folds of the fabric showed a grey-blue color, while the protrusions had a bright pink luster. The coloring of the dye component (red and dark blue) did not appear in the garment. The back of the garment did not show an iridescent effect and showed a blue tint.

Example 1-Part B
In Part B, the yarn, garment structure, and dyeing method were the same as Part A except for the dye used. The dye is a bright yellow cationic dye, Maxilon Yellow GL 200% (from Ciba) (used at 0.1% by weight based on the weight of the cationic dyeable nylon in the sample), and very It consisted of a dark violet acid dye, NYLOSAN Violet F-BL 180% (used at 0.9% by weight based on the weight of the acid dyeable nylon component). The staining procedure was the same as in Part A.

  The visual evaluation method in this example was the same as in Part A. The dyed garment had a generally reddish light purple with flowing iridescent areas ranging from purple to warm silver. The original bright yellow color was not observed and the back of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1-Part C
The dyeing method of part C yarn and clothes and the method of visual evaluation were the same as in Part A. Heterogeneous dyes were used in Part C, which was a mixed dye of Sage Green (old green) cationic dye, Sevron Yellow 3RL and Sevron Blue CAN (both dyes) From Yorkshire Chemicals (from YORKSHIRE CHEMICALS). The above dye was used at 0.2% by weight based on the weight of the cationic dyeable nylon component in the sample. The same very dark violet acid dye used in Part B, NYLOSAN violet F-BL 180%, was used at a lower concentration of 0.2% by weight, based on the weight of the acid dyeable nylon component.

  The dyed garment had a generally plain gray with a bright iridescent area ranging from mauve to silver. The original sage green color was not observed and the back of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1-Part D
The dyeing method for the yarn and clothes of Part D and the method for visual evaluation were the same as Part A. A heterogeneous dye was used in Part D, the dye being a bright yellow cationic dye, Maxilon Yellow GL 200% (from Ciba) (0.2% by weight based on the weight of the cationic dyeable nylon in the sample) ) And a bright blue acid dye, NYLOSAN Blue F-2RFL 160% (used at a concentration of 1.4% by weight based on the weight of the acid dyeable nylon component).

  The dyed garment had a generally reddish light purple with iridescent areas between bundles ranging from purple to warm silver. The original bright yellow color was not observed and the back of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1-Part E
The method for dyeing yarns and clothes in Examples and the method for visual evaluation were the same as in Part A. A heterogeneous dye was used in Part E, the dye being a bright yellow cationic dye, Maxilon Yellow GL 200% (from Ciba) (0.2% by weight based on the weight of the cationic dyeable nylon in the sample) ) And a very dark violet acid dye, NYLOSAN violet F-BL 180% (used at 0.9% by weight based on the weight of the acid dyeable nylon component).

  The finished garment had a much more mottled appearance than the overall basic color of the other garments of Part AD. This observation is believed to be due to the strong contrast between the pale yellow component used in Part E and the dark blue component. Part E garments had a dark iridescent color and a metallic luster. The back of the garment did not show any iridescence.

Example 1-Part F
Comparative Example In this comparative example, a flat (raw) POY component was prepared that was nearly identical to that used to make the second yarn of Part A. The polymer from which the yarn was prepared contained 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups (AEG _acid ) per 1000 kilograms of polymer. The details of all other experiments including the staining method and the visual evaluation method were the same as those of the invention part E. This comparative example illustrates the effect of using a standard acid dyed nylon yarn instead of a heavily dyed yarn with a high concentration of amine end groups. The acid dyeable yarn having a low concentration of amine ends does not retain the acid dye as strongly as the darkly colored yarn, so that a large amount of acid dye is colored on the cationic dyeable yarn.

  After dyeing this garment, the blue acid dye is quite colored on the cationic dyeable yarn, resulting in a greyish green color and almost no iridescent effect.

Example 2
In an example of the present invention, a “seamless” circular knitted fabric garment was prepared and dyed according to the dyeing procedure of Part A of Example 1. The prepared garment comprises a first yarn, a flat (raw) POY comprising a multifilament having a bright gloss and a trilobal cross-sectional shape. This flat POY had a total weight of 56 dtex and contained 20 filaments. Cationic dyeing having RV (formic acid) 31.5, titanium dioxide content 0.02% by weight, 42 gram equivalent of amine end group concentration per 1000 kilograms of polymer and 55 gram equivalent of sulfonate group concentration per 1000 kilograms of polymer This yarn was spun from a neutral nylon 66 polymer. This yarn was spun by a known method through a spinneret having a plurality of deformed capillaries to produce a POY having 20 trilobal filaments per yarn.

The second yarn was a commercial sample of nylon 66 processed yarn with a dark acid-dyed, glossy, annular cross-section covering 17 decitex LYCRA® Spandex T175. As in Example 1 Parts AF, LYCRA (R) spandex was coated with a dyed nylon thread, so it was not necessary to achieve the visible iridescent beauty of the present invention. The dark-dyed nylon polymer from which this yarn was prepared was the same as that used to prepare the second yarn from Part A of Example 1. The polymer was 40 RV, its amine end group concentration was 70 gram equivalent per 1000 kilograms of polymer, and its TiO ₂ content was 1.5% by weight. The yarn was spun by the conventional POY method and woven by the known means of friction false twist weaving and then used to coat the LYCRA (R) spandex in a known manner.

  The first and second yarns were knitted together on a Santoni SM8-83 TOP seamless machine, using a 13 inch 28 gauge, single jersey construction covered over. As a cationic dye, Maxilon Blue TL is used at 0.15% by weight based on the weight of the cationic dyeable nylon component, and as an acid dye, NYLOSAN Bordeaux NBL and NYLOSAN Yellow are used. The seamless circular knitted fabric garment was dyed by the method of Example 1 using N7Gl and 0.2% by weight and 0.4% by weight, respectively, based on the weight of the acid dyeable nylon component yarn.

  A panel of experts subjectively evaluated the appearance of the clothes. The front of the garment fabric was fairly uniform reddish brown. The back of the garment fabric was dark purple in color, covered with a bright glossy thread, with a pink shade and a blue glossy flash that changed like a rainbow.

It is sectional drawing of the trilobal fiber on the basis of the long axis of the single polyamide fiber of the thread | yarn used for producing the cloth which concerns on this invention. It is sectional drawing of the Diabolo type fiber on the basis of the long axis of the single polyamide fiber of the thread | yarn used for producing the cloth which concerns on this invention. It is a one part perspective view of the cloth concerning the present invention.

Claims (9)

An iridescent woven fabric comprising a cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn and an acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn, the acid dyeable yarn having an amine end group (AEG _acid ) of more than 35 gram equivalent per 1000 kilograms of polymer Iridescent woven fabric with The cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn has a sulfonate group (S _cat ) concentration of at least 15 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer and an amine end group (AEG _cat ) concentration of 40 gram equivalents or less per 1000 kilograms of polymer. The iridescent woven fabric described in 1. The cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn comprises a plurality of sulfonate end groups (S _cat ) and a plurality of amine end groups (AEG _cat ), and the sulfonate end groups (S _cat ) and amine end groups (AEG _cat). The iridescent woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the difference in density (rho) is between
rho = S _cat -AEG _cat = 0   The iridescent woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein either the cationic dyeable or acidic dyeable nylon yarn comprises 0 to about 0.1 wt% or less of titanium dioxide.   The cationically dyeable or acidic dyeable nylon yarn comprising 0 to about 0.1 wt% or less of titanium dioxide comprises a plurality of modified cross-section filaments having a trilobal cross-sectional shape. Iridescent woven fabric.   The iridescent woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the cationic dyeable or acidic dyeable nylon yarn comprising 0 to about 0.1 wt% or less of titanium dioxide comprises a plurality of filaments having a Diaboro cross-sectional shape. cloth.   6. The iridescent woven fabric according to claim 5, wherein the nylon yarn comprising 0 to about 0.1% by weight or less of titanium dioxide comprises a cationic dyeable yarn.   The iridescent woven fabric according to claim 7, wherein the acidic dyeable nylon comprises a plurality of filaments having an annular cross-sectional shape. A method for making an iridescent woven fabric, wherein a cationic dyeable nylon polymer yarn and an acid are used in a single dyebath having at least one acid dye and at least one cationic dye present in a single dyebath. Dyeing a woven fabric comprising a dyeable nylon polymer yarn, wherein the acid dyeable yarn has more than 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups (AEG _acid ) per 1000 kilograms of polymer.

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