JP2004292983A - Polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarn and method for producing the same, and woven/knitted fabric comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarns having glossy feeling and puffy feeling, capable of imparting the woven/knitted fabrics therefrom with natural unevenness feeling and softness in particular, and good in after-process passableness, and to provide such woven/knitted fabrics comprising the false-twist textured yarns. <P>SOLUTION: The polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarn comprises polyester single filaments with thick portions and thin portions in the longitudinal direction and meets the requirements of each specific residual percent crimp, Young's modulus, tensile strength and elongation at break. The polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarn is produced by the following process: Polyester multifilament yarns comprising polyester single filaments with thick portions and thin portions in the longitudinal direction are fed to a false-twisting region and subjected to false-twist crimping under such conditions that the false-twisting tension is 0.05-0.25 cN/dtex per fineness of the textured yarn and the false-twist setting temperature is Tg+20°C to Tg+70°C. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament false twisted yarn capable of imparting a natural sensation and softness to a woven or knitted fabric while having a glossiness and a fluffiness, a method for producing the same, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In sports clothing and fashion clothing, a material having a glossy feeling and a feeling of swelling is required. Conventionally, to meet such needs, a thermoplastic synthetic multifilament yarn such as polyester fiber has been temporarily prepared at a low temperature and / or a low twist number. Crimped yarn obtained by twisting has been generally used.
[0003]
For needs that require further improvement in the glossiness, for example, crimped yarns obtained by false twisting irregularly shaped cross-section yarns at low temperature and low twist number are proposed (Patent Documents 1 and 2). See). However, the false twisted yarn of the modified cross-section yarn has good glossiness due to the effect of the modified cross-section, but as a whole yarn, the yarn becomes bending hard and is given false twist crimping. Regardless, the woven and knitted fabric was insufficient in softness. In addition, the diversification of consumer needs in recent years is remarkable, and it is desired to provide not only the conventional glossiness but also a new surface effect.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-51-1947 [Patent Document 2]
JP-A-63-243346 [0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the problems in the prior art, and provide a polyester multi-layer having a glossiness and swelling feeling, and particularly capable of imparting a natural mottling and softness to a woven or knitted fabric and having good post-process passability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a filament false twisted yarn, and to provide a woven / knitted fabric having a glossiness and swelling feeling, and particularly a natural spot feeling and softness, by the false twisted yarn.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The gist of the first invention of the present invention is a polyester multi-layer comprising a polyester single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in a yarn longitudinal direction and satisfying the following requirements (1) to (4). In filament false twisted yarn,
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm ²
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation: 20-50%
The gist of the second invention is that a polyester multifilament yarn consisting of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction is supplied to a false twist twisting area, and the false twist twist tension per processed yarn fineness is increased. Perform false twist crimping under the conditions of 0.05 to 0.25 cN / dtex and a false twist setting temperature of Tg + 20 ° C. to Tg + 70 ° C. (where Tg is the glass transition point (° C.) of the polyester multifilament yarn). The present invention resides in a method for producing a polyester multifilament false twisted yarn, and the gist of the third invention lies in a woven or knitted fabric containing the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn.
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention is made of a polyester single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction, and has the following requirements (1) to (4).
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm ²
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation: 20-50%
[0008]
The polyester single fiber constituting the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, so that the thick portion is darkened, the details are dyed lightly, and the woven or knitted fabric is formed. It is possible to impart a spot effect due to a different color to the image. In addition, the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a thickness change compared to a straight ordinary polyester multifilament yarn having no change in thickness. Sometimes it is possible to give a soft texture. Furthermore, since the twisting effect in false twist twisting to untwisting is generally concentrated on details, the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a different crimp form between the thick portion and the details of each single fiber, and has unevenness. The feeling and the softness of the yarn can be provided more effectively.
[0009]
In the polyester multifilament false twisting yarn of the present invention, the formation state of the thick portion and the details of the single fiber is not particularly limited, but the thick portion and the details are respectively randomly changed between the constituent single fibers. Is preferable, and it becomes possible to impart a more natural spot feeling. Incidentally, the formation positions of the thick portion and the detail are changed randomly between the constituent single fibers, respectively, when an arbitrary yarn cross section of the false twisted yarn is observed with an optical microscope, a plurality of types having different cross sectional areas are observed. Means that the constituent filament yarn is observed.
[0010]
The residual crimp rate, Young's modulus, tensile strength and elongation rate of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention are in the above ranges, respectively, preferably, the residual crimp rate is 3.0 to 12.0%, and the Young's modulus. Is 4.0 to 6.0 N / mm ² , the tensile strength is 0.8 to 2.3 cN / dtex, and the elongation is 25 to 40%. That is, the polyester multifilament false twist textured yarn of the present invention has a glossiness and a fuzziness when the residual crimp rate, Young's modulus, tensile strength and elongation rate are in the above ranges, and has a soft and woven / knitted fabric. And good passability in the post-process.
[0011]
If the residual crimp rate of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn is less than 2%, the crimp becomes small and the feeling of swelling disappears, and the woven or knitted product becomes paper-like. If it exceeds 15%, irregular reflection of light due to the crimping occurs. And the glossiness is impaired. On the other hand, when the Young's modulus is less than 3.0 N / mm ² , the false twisted yarn becomes too soft and becomes a woven or knitted fabric without so-called stiffness, and when it exceeds 7.0 N / mm ² , the woven or knitted fabric with insufficient softness It becomes. If the tensile strength is less than 0.6 cN / dtex, yarn breakage or the like is likely to occur during the post-process, and a problem occurs in the strength of the woven or knitted fabric. The difference in structure between the part and the details becomes small, the mottling becomes insufficient, and the texture becomes coarse and hard. On the other hand, if the elongation is less than 20%, the structural difference between the thick part and the fine part of the single fiber becomes small, the mottling becomes insufficient, and the texture becomes coarse and hard. In addition, the process passability is poor, and problems occur in dimensional stability and the like when woven or knitted.
[0012]
When the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a residual crimp rate of 2.0 to 15.0%, it gives a glossy feeling due to crimping when it is formed into a woven or knitted fabric. In order to provide a more preferable glossiness as a woven or knitted fabric to be used, the glossiness is preferably 4 or more.
[0013]
The polyester single fiber constituting the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention is, as long as it is within the scope of the present invention, titanium oxide, a conductive substance, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, and a polyester constituting the single fiber. Other components such as an inhibitor may be contained, and the polyester constituting the single fiber may be a copolymerized polyester containing a copolymerized component. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the constituent single fiber is not particularly limited, and may be any of a polygonal cross section, a multi-leaf cross section, a flat cross section, a hollow cross section, and the like, and the constituent single fiber may be a side-by-side type or a core. It may be a composite yarn spun into a sheath or the like, and may be determined in consideration of the texture, glossiness, and the like of the target woven or knitted fabric.
[0014]
The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention may be used alone in the form of a false twisted yarn or in the form of a twisted yarn, or may be used as a plied yarn with other fibers.
[0015]
Next, a method for producing the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described. The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction, supplied to the false twist twisting region, and false twisted per processed yarn fineness. False twisting under the conditions of a twisting tension of 0.05 to 0.25 cN / dtex and a false twist setting temperature of Tg + 20 ° C to Tg + 70 ° C (where Tg is the glass transition point (° C) of the polyester multifilament yarn). It is obtained by performing shrinking processing.
[0016]
In the production method of the present invention, when performing a false twisting process on a polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction, the false twist twisting tension and the false twist setting temperature are glossy, swelling feeling. A polyester multifilament yarn comprising a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction by performing false twist crimping under the above-mentioned conditions. Can be made into an appropriate crimped form and yarn physical properties.
[0017]
As for the false twist twisting tension in the production method of the present invention, the false twist twisting tension per textured yarn fineness is in the above range, preferably 0.08 to 0.18 cN / dtex, and the false twist twisting tension is 0. If it is less than 05 cN / dtex, ballooning at the upper part of the false twisted twisted body becomes large, workability becomes unstable, and yarn breakage occurs. If it exceeds 0.25 cN / dTex, the thick part supplied to the false twist twisting area. Since the polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single fiber in which details are formed is drawn uniformly, a mottled feeling disappears.
[0018]
The false twist setting temperature in the production method of the present invention is in the above range, preferably Tg + 30 ° C. to Tg + 60 ° C. When the false twist setting temperature is lower than Tg + 20 ° C., the thermoplasticity of the polyester multifilament yarn is insufficient and false twisting is performed. No crimping can be applied, the resulting false twisted yarn has almost no crimp, and becomes paper-like when woven or knitted. If it exceeds Tg + 70 ° C., the glossiness due to the change in the molecular structure due to thermoplasticity is reduced. At the same time, the polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed thereon is stretched, and the patchy feeling disappears.
[0019]
In the production method of the present invention, the number of false twists may be set in accordance with the performance of the target false twisted yarn, but in consideration of the glossiness and swelling feeling, 15,000 to 40000 / D ^1/2 · It is preferably T / m. In the production method of the present invention, the false twisting method is not particularly limited, and a known method such as a pin method, a friction method, and an air swirling flow method can be adopted. In addition, it is also possible to perform the heat setting using the second heater after the false twisting according to the purpose such as the post-process passability by reducing the false twisting torque.
[0020]
The woven or knitted fabric containing the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention may have its mixing ratio and the woven or knitted fabric determined within a range where the desired texture and product appearance can be obtained. A woven or knitted fabric composed of a single yarn, a woven or knitted fabric composed of a plied yarn of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention and another fiber, or a woven or knitted fabric using the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention as a part of a woven or knitted fabric It may be a knitted fabric, and various woven or knitted fabrics can be obtained as long as the effects of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained.
[0021]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples. In addition, each physical property by this invention was calculated | required by the following method.
[0022]
(1) Residual crimp rate:
It was measured according to JIS L-1015.
[0023]
(2) Young's modulus, tensile strength, elongation:
It was measured in accordance with JIS L-1013.
[0024]
(3) Glossiness:
A gloss measurement sample was prepared using a gloss meter (PG-1M manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Co., Ltd.) in accordance with JIS L-1013, and the measurement was performed by a 60-degree specular reflection method.
[0025]
(4) Texture, sensation:
The obtained processed yarn is knitted with a 20 gauge single-pass knitting machine, and the knitted fabric is scoured (70 ° C, 15 minutes) by a conventional method, and then dyed with a disperse dye (120 ° C, 30 minutes). ). Thereafter, handling and evaluation by visual judgment were performed.
[0026]
(Example 1)
Using a polyester multifilament yarn (110 dtex / 36 filaments, Tg: 74.1 ° C.) in which the thick part and the details are randomly formed between the constituent single fibers, using an LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. At a speed of 100 m / min, a false twist overfeed rate of -6%, a false twist setting temperature of 120 ° C., a number of false twists of 1800 T / m, a winding speed of 97 m / min, and a tension of 0.14 cN / dtex during false twist twisting. Twist crimping was performed to obtain a false twisted yarn.
[0027]
The obtained false twisted yarn had a residual crimp rate of 6.4%, a Young's modulus of 5.1 N / mm ² , a tensile strength of 1.04 cN / dtex, an elongation of 34.7%, and a gloss of 7.2. Was. Using the obtained false twisted yarn, the texture and the spot feeling were evaluated. As a result, there was no particular problem at the time of knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had a glossiness and a swelling feeling, and was particularly natural and had a soft feeling. It had something.
[0028]
(Example 2)
Using a polyester multifilament yarn (78 dtex / 36 filaments, Tg: 76.3 ° C.) in which the thick part and the details are randomly formed between the constituent single fibers, using an LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. At a speed of 100 m / min, a false twist overfeed rate of -8%, a false twist setting temperature of 120 ° C., a number of false twists of 2000 T / m, a winding speed of 96 m / min, and a tension of 0.16 cN / dtex at the time of false twist twisting. Twist crimping was performed to obtain a false twisted yarn.
[0029]
The obtained false twisted yarn had a residual crimp rate of 3.6%, a Young's modulus of 5.7 N / mm ² , a tensile strength of 1.25 cN / dtex, an elongation of 35.2%, and a gloss of 4.7. Was. Using the obtained false twisted yarn, the texture and the spot feeling were evaluated. As a result, there was no particular problem at the time of knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had a glossiness and a swelling feeling, and was particularly natural and had a soft feeling. It had something.
[0030]
(Comparative Example 1)
As in Example 1, a processing speed of 100 m / min, false twist overfeed was performed using a straight polyester multifilament yarn (56 dtex / 24 filaments, Tg: 76.3 ° C.) having no thick part and no details in the constituent single fibers. Rate: 2.5%, false twist setting temperature: 120 ° C., number of false twists: 2500 T / m, winding speed: 96 m / min, false twist twisting: tension of 0.13 cN / dtex. Yarn was obtained. The obtained false twisted yarn has a Young's modulus of 10.4 N / mm ² and has no thick portion and no detail in the yarn longitudinal direction. [0031]
(Comparative Example 2)
Except that the false twist overfeed ratio was -1% and the tension at the time of false twist twisting was 0.03 cN / dtex, the false twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. Ballooning became large and false twisting was difficult.
[0032]
(Comparative Example 3)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed ratio was -14% and the tension during false twisting and twisting was 0.30 cN / dtex, to obtain a false twisted yarn. The texture and unevenness evaluation of the knitted fabric using the obtained false twisted yarn was flat, had no swelling, and almost no unevenness.
[0033]
(Comparative Example 4)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed ratio was set to −2% and the false twist setting temperature was set to 80 ° C., to obtain a false twisted yarn. The obtained false twisted yarn has a residual crimp rate of 0.8% and almost no false twist crimp, and has a high elongation rate of 63.9%. Although there was no swelling feeling, it had a paper-like texture. Further, the obtained knitted fabric was easily stretched when pulled, and was unsuitable for practical use.
[0034]
(Comparative Example 5)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed ratio was -4% and the false twist setting temperature was 170 ° C, to obtain a false twisted yarn. The obtained false twisted yarn had a low tensile strength of 0.48 cN / dtex and a low elongation of 6.8%, and was difficult to knit, resulting in a practical problem.
[0035]
【The invention's effect】
The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a glossiness and swelling feeling that are not present in conventional false twisted yarns, and can particularly impart a natural unevenness and softness to a woven or knitted fabric, and can be used in a post-process. The woven or knitted fabric using the false-twisted yarn has particularly good natural sensation and softness as well as glossiness and swelling, and the false-twisted yarn of the present invention Alternatively, the woven or knitted fabric is useful as a material yarn or a material fabric for sports clothing, fashion clothing, and the like.

Claims (5)

A polyester multifilament false twisted yarn comprising a polyester single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in a yarn longitudinal direction, and satisfying the following requirements (1) to (4).
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm ²
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation: 20-50% 2. The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the formation positions of the thick portion and the details in the single fiber are randomly formed between the single fibers. The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the glossiness is 4 or more. A polyester multifilament yarn composed of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the yarn longitudinal direction is supplied to a false twist twisting region, and the false twist twist tension per processed yarn fineness is 0.05 to 0.25 cN / polyester multi-filament which is subjected to false-twist crimping under the conditions of dtex and a false-twist setting temperature of Tg + 20 ° C. to Tg + 70 ° C. (where Tg is the glass transition point (° C.) of the polyester multi-filament yarn). Method for producing false twisted yarn. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3.