JPH07118973A - Production of special combined filament yarn dyeable to dark color - Google Patents

Production of special combined filament yarn dyeable to dark color

Info

Publication number
JPH07118973A
JPH07118973A JP26501393A JP26501393A JPH07118973A JP H07118973 A JPH07118973 A JP H07118973A JP 26501393 A JP26501393 A JP 26501393A JP 26501393 A JP26501393 A JP 26501393A JP H07118973 A JPH07118973 A JP H07118973A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
birefringence
elongation
difference
heater
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP26501393A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP2986665B2 (en
Inventor
Masaaki Yanagihara
正明 柳原
Kenji Iwashita
建二 岩下
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Teijin Ltd
Original Assignee
Teijin Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Teijin Ltd filed Critical Teijin Ltd
Priority to JP5265013A priority Critical patent/JP2986665B2/en
Publication of JPH07118973A publication Critical patent/JPH07118973A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2986665B2 publication Critical patent/JP2986665B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a process for the production of a special combined filament yarn dyeable to dark color and giving a cloth having excellent dyeability to deep color, free from dyeing speck and exhibiting soft feeling with crispness and stiffness. CONSTITUTION:Plural undrawn polyester yarns having breaking elongation difference of >=300% and a birefringence difference of >=0.06 are aligned, interlocked, subjected to draw false-twisting at a processing draw ratio of 1.10-1.40 under heating at a yarn temperature of 70-100 deg.C at the outlet part of a heater and finally heat-treated at >=150 deg.C.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、濃染性特殊混繊糸の製
造方法に関するものであり、更に詳しくは、深色効果に
優れていると共に、実質的に捲縮が付与されておらず、
張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの布帛とすることのでき
る濃染性特殊混繊糸の製造方法に関するものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed yarn, and more specifically, it has an excellent bathochromic effect and is substantially not crimped. ,
The present invention relates to a method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed fiber that can be used as a fabric having a soft texture with tension and elasticity.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来、切断伸度差のある2本のポリエス
テルフィラメント糸を引き揃えて、空気交絡処理した
後、引き続いて仮撚加工することにより、低伸度糸の周
りに高伸度糸が交互撚糸状に巻き付いた2層構造糸を製
造する方法が、数多く提案されている(例えば、特公昭
60―11130号公報)。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, two polyester filament yarns having different cutting elongations are aligned, air-entangled, and subsequently false twisted to form a high elongation yarn around a low elongation yarn. There have been proposed many methods for producing a two-layer structure yarn wound in an alternating twisted yarn form (for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-11130).

【0003】また、特公昭61―19733号公報など
には、紡績糸様風合いを有する、所謂、仮撚巻付加工糸
の製造法が開示されている。
Further, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19733 discloses a method for producing a so-called false twist wound processed yarn having a spun yarn-like texture.

【0004】また、特開昭64―14331号公報に
は、高温での仮撚加工により、シャリ感、清涼感を有す
る衣料用素材が得られることが記載されている。
Further, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 64-14331 describes that a false twisting process at a high temperature makes it possible to obtain a material for clothes having a sharp feel and a refreshing feel.

【0005】更に、特開平2―293411号公報に
は、常温〜78℃で延伸仮撚加工することにより、ユニ
ークな風合いを有する特殊混繊糸を製造する方法が開示
されている。
Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-293411 discloses a method of producing a special mixed yarn having a unique texture by performing draw false twisting at room temperature to 78 ° C.

【0006】しかしながら、これらの方法は、いずれも
仮撚加工によりフィラメント単糸の断面形状が変形した
捲縮嵩高加工糸を製造するものであって、得られた加工
糸は、スパンライクなもの、あるいはシャリ感、清涼感
を有するものであり、本発明方法で製造した混繊糸のよ
うに、実質的に捲縮が付与されていないものとは異なっ
て、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの布帛を得ることは
できない。
However, all of these methods produce a crimped bulky textured yarn in which the cross-sectional shape of a filament single yarn is deformed by false twisting, and the obtained textured yarn is a spunlike yarn. Alternatively, it has a crisp feeling, a refreshing feeling, and unlike the mixed yarn produced by the method of the present invention, which is not substantially crimped, has a tight, elastic and soft texture. No fabric can be obtained.

【0007】しかも、特開平2―293411号公報に
開示されている方法では、低温で延伸仮撚するため、時
として延伸斑が生じ、その結果、染色斑が発生するとい
う問題がある。
Moreover, the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-293411 has a problem in that stretching false-twisting occurs at a low temperature, so that stretching unevenness sometimes occurs, resulting in dyeing unevenness.

【0008】一方、特公昭60―11130号公報、特
公昭61―19733号公報、特開昭64―14331
号公報などに記載されている方法では、得られた加工糸
の染色性が悪く、深色効果に優れた濃染性の糸は得られ
ない。
On the other hand, Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-11130, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19733, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 64-14331.
According to the method described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. JP-A No. 2004-187, the dyeing property of the obtained processed yarn is poor, and a deep-dyeing yarn excellent in bathochromic effect cannot be obtained.

【0009】[0009]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】従って、本発明の目的
は、染色斑がなく、深色性に優れていると共に、張り、
腰のあるソフトな風合いの布帛とすることのできる濃染
性特殊混繊糸の製造方法を提供することにある。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Therefore, the object of the present invention is to have no stain spots, excellent bathochromism, and tension.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed filament yarn that can be used as a fabric having a soft and soft texture.

【0010】[0010]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明によれば、切断伸
度差が300%以上、複屈折率差が0.06以上である
複数のポリエステル未延伸糸を引き揃え、交絡処理を施
した後、加工倍率1.10〜1.40で、ヒータ出口直
後の糸温度が70〜100℃となるように加熱して、延
伸仮撚加工を施し、次いで、150℃以上で熱処理する
ことを特徴とする濃染性特殊混繊糸の製造方法が提供さ
れ、更に、その際、延伸仮撚加工時の加熱を、ヒータ温
度90〜130℃、加熱時間0.15〜0.23秒で行
う濃染性特殊混繊糸の製造方法が提供される。
According to the present invention, a plurality of polyester undrawn yarns having a difference in cutting elongation of 300% or more and a difference in birefringence of 0.06 or more are aligned and subjected to a entanglement treatment. After that, it is heated at a processing magnification of 1.10 to 1.40 so that the yarn temperature immediately after the heater exit becomes 70 to 100 ° C., subjected to draw false twisting, and then heat treated at 150 ° C. or higher. A method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed filament yarn is further provided, in which heating during drawing false twisting is performed at a heater temperature of 90 to 130 ° C. for a heating time of 0.15 to 0.23 seconds. A method for producing a dyeable special mixed yarn is provided.

【0011】ここで、切断伸度が低く、複屈折率が高い
方のポリエステル未延伸糸は、切断伸度が50〜100
%、複屈折率が0.07〜0.13であることが好まし
い。
The unstretched polyester yarn having a lower breaking elongation and a higher birefringence has a breaking elongation of 50 to 100.
%, And the birefringence is preferably 0.07 to 0.13.

【0012】本発明において用いられるポリエステル未
延伸糸を構成するポリエステルとしては、例えば、テレ
フタル酸又はそのエステル形成性誘導体と式HO(CH
2 p OHを有するポリアルキレングリコール(但し、
pは2〜10の整数)とから常法により製造されるポリ
エステルを挙げることができ、特にテレフタル酸ジメチ
ルとエチレングリコールとから製造されるポリエチレン
テレフタレートが好適である。
No polyester used in the present invention
As the polyester constituting the stretched yarn, for example,
Phthalic acid or its ester-forming derivative and the formula HO (CH
2) pPolyalkylene glycol having OH (provided that
p is an integer of 2 to 10)
Mention may be made of esters, especially dimethyl terephthalate.
Polyethylene produced from ethylene and ethylene glycol
Terephthalate is preferred.

【0013】更に、必要に応じて、テレフタル酸に対し
て約15モル%以下の他のグリコール類、二官能性カル
ボン酸類、オキシカルボン酸類等の第三成分を共重合し
ていてもよい。共重合し得る第三成分としては、例えば
酸成分として3,5−ジカルボキシベンゼンスルホン
酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、イソフタル酸、ジフェニ
ルスルホンジカルボン酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸、オ
キシ安息香酸等を、また、グリコール成分としてトリメ
チレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、シクロヘキ
サンジメタノール、ネオペンチルグリコール等を挙げる
ことができる。
Further, if necessary, a third component such as other glycols, difunctional carboxylic acids, oxycarboxylic acids or the like in an amount of about 15 mol% or less with respect to terephthalic acid may be copolymerized. Examples of the third component that can be copolymerized include 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenylsulfonedicarboxylic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and oxybenzoic acid as acid components. Examples of the glycol component include trimethylene glycol, propylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, neopentyl glycol and the like.

【0014】更に、かかるポリエステルには、15モル
%以下の他のポリエステルを混合してもよい。また、酸
化チタン等の艶消剤、紫外線吸収剤等の耐光性改善剤、
酸化防止剤等の耐熱性改善剤、制電防止剤、その他微粉
末不活性物質等を含有していてもよい。
Further, the polyester may be mixed with another polyester of 15 mol% or less. Also, matting agents such as titanium oxide, light resistance improving agents such as ultraviolet absorbers,
A heat resistance improver such as an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, and other fine powder inactive substances may be contained.

【0015】切断伸度差、複屈折差を有するポリエステ
ル未延伸糸は、ポリエステルを常法により溶融紡糸し、
その際、紡糸速度、単糸繊度、紡出糸条冷却条件などを
適宜変更することにより、容易に得ることができる。
The polyester unstretched yarn having a difference in elongation at break and a difference in birefringence is melt-spun polyester by a conventional method,
At that time, it can be easily obtained by appropriately changing the spinning speed, the single yarn fineness, the spinning yarn cooling condition and the like.

【0016】本発明においては、この切断伸度差が30
0%以上、複屈折率差が0.06以上であることが必要
である。伸度差が300%未満、複屈折率差が0.06
未満では、得られる混繊糸の繊維間空隙が小さく、自己
伸長による膨らみが少なくなるため、本発明で目的とす
る、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いが得られない。
In the present invention, this cutting elongation difference is 30.
It is necessary that 0% or more and the difference in birefringence be 0.06 or more. Elongation difference less than 300%, birefringence difference 0.06
If it is less than the above range, the interfiber voids of the obtained mixed yarn are small and the bulge due to self-expansion is small, so that the soft texture with tension and elasticity which is the object of the present invention cannot be obtained.

【0017】また、高伸度糸が、低伸度糸の外側に均一
に分散することができず、染色斑が発生するという問題
も生ずる。なお、ネップの発生を防ぎ、製織性を向上さ
せるうえで、切断伸度差は500%以下、複屈折率差は
0.10以下であることが望ましい。
Further, the high-elongation yarn cannot be uniformly dispersed outside the low-elongation yarn, which causes a problem that uneven dyeing occurs. In order to prevent the generation of nep and improve the weaving property, it is desirable that the difference in cutting elongation is 500% or less and the difference in birefringence is 0.10.

【0018】また、本発明で使用する伸度の小さい方の
未延伸糸は、切断伸度が50〜100%、複屈折率が
0.07〜0.13であることが好ましい。切断伸度が
50%未満、複屈折率が0.13を越えると、延伸糸の
領域に近づき、延伸仮撚時に毛羽が発生し易くなるた
め、延伸仮撚加工速度を下げなければならなくなり、生
産性の低下、コストの上昇を招く恐れがある。
The undrawn yarn having a smaller elongation used in the present invention preferably has a breaking elongation of 50 to 100% and a birefringence of 0.07 to 0.13. If the cutting elongation is less than 50% and the birefringence exceeds 0.13, the region near the drawn yarn is approached and fluff tends to occur during draw false twisting, so the draw false twisting speed must be reduced. There is a risk of lowering productivity and increasing costs.

【0019】更に、延伸仮撚加工により単糸の断面形状
が変形し、実質的な捲縮が付与されてしまい、本発明で
目的とする、特殊な風合いが得られなくなる場合があ
る。
Further, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is deformed by the draw false twisting process, and a substantial crimp is given, so that the special texture desired by the present invention may not be obtained.

【0020】一方、切断伸度が100%を越え、複屈折
率が0.07未満になると、延伸仮撚時にサージング
(糸揺れ)が起こり易くなり、これを防ぐために高倍率
での延伸仮撚が要求され、その結果、低伸度糸(芯糸)
と高伸度糸(鞘糸)との抱合性が悪化し、染色斑が発生
する原因となる。
On the other hand, if the breaking elongation exceeds 100% and the birefringence is less than 0.07, surging (yarn shake) is likely to occur during draw false twist, and in order to prevent this, draw false twist at a high draw ratio. Is required, and as a result, low elongation yarn (core yarn)
And the high elongation yarn (sheath yarn) have poor conjugation property, which causes stain spots.

【0021】切断伸度が低く、複屈折率が高いポリエス
テル未延伸糸と、切断伸度が高く、複屈折率が低いポリ
エステル未延伸糸との複合比率は、ソフトな風合いに寄
与する後者が、50%以上を占めるようにするのが好ま
しい。
The composite ratio of the polyester undrawn yarn having a low breaking elongation and a high birefringence and the polyester undrawn yarn having a high breaking elongation and a low birefringence, the latter of which contributes to a soft texture, It is preferable to occupy 50% or more.

【0022】図1は、本発明方法を実施するための装置
の一例を示す概略正面図であり、切断伸度が低く、複屈
折率が高いポリエステル未延伸糸1と、切断伸度が高
く、複屈折率が低いポリエステル未延伸糸2とを、合糸
スネルガイド3で引き揃え、張力調整装置4を経て、一
対の供給ローラ5、5′に送る。
FIG. 1 is a schematic front view showing an example of an apparatus for carrying out the method of the present invention, which is a polyester undrawn yarn 1 having a low cutting elongation and a high birefringence, and a high cutting elongation. The polyester unstretched yarn 2 having a low birefringence is aligned with the yarn blending snell guide 3, and fed to the pair of supply rollers 5 and 5'through the tension adjusting device 4.

【0023】この供給ローラ5、5′と一対の中間ロー
ラ7、7′との間には、空気交絡ノズル6が設けられて
おり、引き揃えられたポリエステル未延伸糸1、2に交
絡を付与する。この交絡処理は、通常、米国特許第2,
985,991号明細書及び米国特許第3,110,1
51号明細書に記載されているフックドロップ法によっ
て測定した値で、交絡度が10〜80ケ/mとなるよう
に交絡を付与すればよい。
An air entanglement nozzle 6 is provided between the supply rollers 5 and 5'and the pair of intermediate rollers 7 and 7'to provide entanglement to the aligned polyester undrawn yarns 1 and 2. To do. This confounding process is commonly described in US Pat.
985,991 and US Pat. No. 3,110,1.
The value measured by the hook-drop method described in Japanese Patent No. 51 may be such that the degree of entanglement is 10 to 80 entanglements / m.

【0024】この中間ローラ7、7′と一対のデリベリ
ローラ10、10′との間には、第1ヒータ8と仮撚具
9とが設けられており、ここで、延伸仮撚加工が施され
る。
A first heater 8 and a false twisting tool 9 are provided between the intermediate rollers 7 and 7'and the pair of delivery rollers 10 and 10 '. Here, a drawing false twisting process is performed. It

【0025】この場合、中間ローラ7、7′とデリベリ
ローラ10、10′との間の加工倍率は、1.10〜
1.40、好ましくは、1.15〜1.40であること
が必要である。
In this case, the processing magnification between the intermediate rollers 7, 7'and the delivery rollers 10, 10 'is 1.10 to 10.
It should be 1.40, preferably 1.15 to 1.40.

【0026】この加工倍率が小さすぎると、加撚張力不
足によるサージングが発生し易く、撚斑に起因する毛
羽、染色斑が発生し、布帛にした場合、張り、腰がなく
なり、逆に、大きすぎると、加工中に、毛羽、断糸が多
発するばかりでなく、布帛にした場合の品位低下を招く
ことになる。
If the processing ratio is too small, surging is likely to occur due to insufficient twisting tension, and fluff and dyeing spots are generated due to twisting unevenness. If it is too much, not only do fluff and yarn breakage frequently occur during processing, but also the quality of the fabric is degraded.

【0027】更に、本発明において重要なことは、第1
ヒータ8の出口直後の糸温度が70〜100℃となるよ
うに加熱して、延伸仮撚加工を行うということである。
Further, the important point in the present invention is that the first
This means that heating is performed so that the yarn temperature immediately after the exit of the heater 8 becomes 70 to 100 ° C., and the draw false twisting process is performed.

【0028】この温度は、通常の延伸仮撚加工の場合の
温度よりも低く、このように比較的低い温度範囲内で延
伸仮撚加工することにより、深色性に優れていると共
に、断面形状の変形がなく、図2(b)に示すように、
実質的に捲縮が付与されておらず、微小波形Mがわずか
に存在するだけで、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの布
帛とすることのできる濃染性特殊混繊糸を製造すること
ができる。
This temperature is lower than the temperature in the case of ordinary drawing false twisting. By performing the drawing false twisting in such a relatively low temperature range, excellent bathochromism and cross-sectional shape are obtained. 2 is not deformed, as shown in FIG.
It is possible to produce a deep-dyeing special mixed filament yarn which is substantially crimp-free and has a slight corrugation M, which makes it possible to obtain a fabric having a soft texture with tension and elasticity. it can.

【0029】ヒータ出口直後の糸温度が70℃未満で
は、仮撚加工張力が高くなり、毛羽、断糸が増加し、染
色斑も生じるので不適当である。一方、この糸温度が1
00℃を越えると、通常の延伸仮撚加工と同様に、単糸
の断面が変形し、実質的に捲縮が付与されて、捲縮性能
(TC)が高くなり、仮撚加工糸特有のフカツキ感のあ
る風合いを呈するようになって、本発明の目的とするソ
フトで特異な風合いを得ることができない。また、染色
性も低下し、濃染性の混繊糸が得られない。
If the yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the heater is less than 70 ° C., the false twisting tension will be high, fluff and yarn breakage will increase, and stains will occur, which is not suitable. On the other hand, this yarn temperature is 1
When the temperature exceeds 00 ° C, the cross section of the single yarn is deformed and crimp is imparted substantially, and the crimping performance (TC) is increased, as in the case of the ordinary drawn false twisted yarn. The soft and peculiar texture, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained because of the fluffy texture. In addition, the dyeability also deteriorates, and a dense dyed mixed fiber cannot be obtained.

【0030】ヒータの出口直後の糸温度を70〜100
℃とするには、ヒータの温度を90〜130℃、加熱時
間を0.15〜0.23秒とすればよい。
The yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the heater is 70-100.
The temperature of the heater may be set to 90 to 130 ° C., and the heating time may be set to 0.15 to 0.23 seconds in order to set the temperature to ℃.

【0031】このように延伸仮撚加工した後、デリベリ
ローラ10、10′と一対の引取ローラ12、12′と
の間に設けた第2ヒータ11で、熱処理する。この熱処
理は、150℃以上、好ましくは、150〜255℃で
行い、得られた混繊糸の沸水収縮率が5〜15%となる
ように熱処理することが望ましい。
After the drawing and false twisting, the second heater 11 provided between the delivery rollers 10 and 10 'and the pair of take-up rollers 12 and 12' is heat-treated. This heat treatment is performed at 150 ° C. or higher, preferably 150 to 255 ° C., and it is desirable that the obtained mixed fiber yarn has a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 5 to 15%.

【0032】沸水収縮率が15%を越えると、低伸度糸
が混繊糸表面に浮き上がり、白っぽい染色斑を呈し、目
的とする濃染性でソフトな風合いが得られ難く、沸水収
縮率が5%未満の場合は、高伸度糸が表面に出すぎて、
ガサツキ感が強くなり、目的とするソフトな風合いが得
られ難くなる。
When the boiling water shrinkage ratio exceeds 15%, the low elongation yarn floats on the surface of the mixed fiber and exhibits whitish dyeing unevenness, and it is difficult to obtain the desired deep dyeing property and soft texture, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio is high. If it is less than 5%, the high elongation yarn is too much on the surface,
The feeling of roughness becomes stronger and it becomes difficult to obtain the desired soft texture.

【0033】更に、この第2ヒータ11による熱処理に
より、高伸度糸が低伸度糸にセットされて、混繊糸の製
織性(解舒性)、取扱い性が改善される。
Further, by the heat treatment by the second heater 11, the high elongation yarn is set to the low elongation yarn, and the weaving property (unwinding property) and handleability of the mixed fiber yarn are improved.

【0034】延伸仮撚加工後の熱処理は、必ずしも延伸
仮撚加工直後に行う必要はないが、経時変化による収縮
率変動を考慮すると、延伸仮撚加工直後(解撚直後)に
行うのが望ましい。
The heat treatment after the drawing false twisting process does not necessarily have to be carried out immediately after the drawing false twisting process, but it is desirable to carry out immediately after the drawing false twisting process (immediately after the untwisting process) in consideration of the change in shrinkage rate due to aging. .

【0035】このように熱処理された糸条を、引取ロー
ラ12、12′で引き取り、ワインダー13に、チーズ
14として巻き取る。
The yarn thus heat-treated is taken up by the take-up rollers 12, 12 'and wound on the winder 13 as cheese 14.

【0036】[0036]

【作用】本発明によれば、切断伸度差、複屈折率差の大
きい複数のポリエステル未延伸糸1、2を引き揃え、交
絡処理を施した後、特定の加工倍率範囲で、ヒータ出口
直後の糸温度が70〜100℃となるように、比較的低
温に加熱して、延伸仮撚加工を施すものであるため、切
断伸度が低く、複屈折率が高いポリエステル未延伸糸1
は延伸し難く、切断伸度が高く、複屈折率が低いポリエ
ステル未延伸糸2は延伸し易いことから、ポリエステル
未延伸糸1の外側に、ポリエステル未延伸糸2が分散す
るように巻き付けられ、均一に引き伸ばされることにな
る。しかも延伸仮撚加工温度が比較的低いため、延伸仮
撚加工により結晶化が進行せず、極めて深色性に優れた
濃染性の混繊糸が得られる。
According to the present invention, a plurality of polyester undrawn yarns 1 and 2 having a large difference in cutting elongation and a large difference in birefringence are aligned and subjected to entanglement treatment, and then, within a specific processing magnification range, immediately after the heater exit. The polyester unstretched yarn 1 has a low breaking elongation and a high birefringence because it is heated at a relatively low temperature and subjected to a stretch false twisting process so that the yarn temperature is 70 to 100 ° C.
Is difficult to stretch, the cutting elongation is high, and the unrefined polyester yarn 2 having a low birefringence is easy to be stretched. It will be stretched uniformly. Moreover, since the drawing false twisting temperature is relatively low, crystallization does not proceed due to the drawing false twisting process, and a deep-dyeing mixed yarn having extremely excellent bathochromism can be obtained.

【0037】更に、通常の延伸仮撚加工では、ヒータ温
度160〜240℃といった比較的高温度が用いられる
ので、加工後の単糸の断面形状が変形し、図2(a)に
示すように捲縮が付与され、スパンライクな風合いある
いはシャリ感を与えるものとなるのに対し、本発明方法
では、通常の延伸仮撚加工の場合よりも低い温度範囲内
で延伸仮撚加工するものであるから、仮撚が熱セットさ
れずに解撚され、断面形状の変形がなく、図2(b)に
示すように、実質的に捲縮が付与されておらず、微小波
形Mがわずかに存在するだけであり、前記伸度差、複屈
折率差とあいまって、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの
布帛とすることのできる濃染性特殊混繊糸を製造するこ
とができる。
Further, since a relatively high temperature such as a heater temperature of 160 to 240 ° C. is used in the ordinary drawing false twisting process, the cross-sectional shape of the processed single yarn is deformed, and as shown in FIG. 2 (a). While crimping is given to give a span-like texture or a crisp feeling, in the method of the present invention, the drawing false twisting is carried out within a lower temperature range than in the case of the usual drawing false twisting. Therefore, the false twist is untwisted without being heat set, the cross-sectional shape is not deformed, and as shown in FIG. 2 (b), the crimp is not substantially applied and the minute waveform M is slightly present. It is only necessary to produce a deep-dyeing special mixed-fiber yarn that can be combined with the above-mentioned difference in elongation and difference in birefringence to form a cloth having a soft texture with tension and elasticity.

【0038】また、本発明においては、伸度差、複屈折
差の大きいポリエステル未延伸糸を使用するので、本来
ならば染色斑が発生し易いはずであるが、本発明の最適
化された条件の組み合わせにより、高伸度糸が均一に延
伸され、しかも低伸度糸の外側に均一に分散されるた
め、染色斑が発生しないものと考えられる。本発明方法
においては、ポリエステル未延伸糸の伸度差、複屈折率
差が小さくなると、かえって染色斑が発生するようにな
る。
Further, in the present invention, unstretched polyester yarn having a large difference in elongation and a large difference in birefringence is used. Therefore, dyeing unevenness should easily occur, but the optimized conditions of the present invention are preferable. It is considered that the high elongation yarns are uniformly drawn and evenly dispersed on the outside of the low elongation yarns by the combination of the above combinations, so that dyeing unevenness does not occur. In the method of the present invention, when the difference in elongation and the difference in birefringence of the polyester undrawn yarn become small, stains on the contrary tend to occur.

【0039】[0039]

【実施例】以下、本発明を、実施例により更に詳細に説
明する。
EXAMPLES The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples.

【0040】なお、沸水収縮率(BWS)及び深色性
は、下記のようにして測定した。 (1)沸水収縮率(BWS) 約3000デニールの綛を作り、これに0.1g/de
の荷重をかけて、原長L0 (cm)を読みとった。前記
綛の荷重を2mg/deに変えて、これを沸騰水中で3
0分間処理し、次いで、室温で乾燥させた後、荷重を
0.1g/deに変えて、その長さL1 (cm)を読み
取り、下記の式で沸水収縮率(BWS、単位%)を算出
した。 沸水収縮率={(L0 −L1 )/L0 }×100
The boiling water shrinkage (BWS) and bathochromic property were measured as follows. (1) Boiling water shrinkage (BWS) About 3000 denier ridges were made, and 0.1 g / de
Then, the original length L 0 (cm) was read. Change the load on the ridges to 2 mg / de, and add this to 3 in boiling water.
After treating for 0 minutes and then drying at room temperature, the load is changed to 0.1 g / de, the length L 1 (cm) is read, and the boiling water shrinkage rate (BWS, unit%) is calculated by the following formula. It was calculated. Boiling water shrinkage rate = {(L 0 −L 1 ) / L 0 } × 100

【0041】(2)深色性 深色性を示す尺度としては、深色度(K/S)を用い
た。この値は、サンプル布帛の分光反射率(R)を島津
RC―330型自記分光光度計にて測定し、次に示すク
ベルカ―ムンク(Kubelka―Munk)の式から
求めた。この値が大きいほど、深色効果が大きいことを
示す。 深色度(K/S)=(1−R)2 /2R なお、Kは吸収係数、Sは散乱係数を示す。
(2) Bathochromicity A bathochromaticity (K / S) was used as a measure of bathochromaticity. This value was obtained by measuring the spectral reflectance (R) of the sample cloth with a Shimadzu RC-330 type self-recording spectrophotometer and using the following Kubelka-Munk formula. The larger this value, the greater the bathochromic effect. Chromaticity (K / S) = (1−R) 2 / 2R where K is the absorption coefficient and S is the scattering coefficient.

【0042】[0042]

【実施例1〜3及び比較例1〜3】紡糸速度1300m
/分で溶融紡糸した、切断伸度380%、複屈折率0.
013のポリエチレンテレフタレート未延伸糸(85d
e/24fil)と、紡糸速度5000m/分で溶融紡
糸した、切断伸度60%、複屈折率0.086のポリエ
チレンテレフタレート未延伸糸(75de/12fi
l)とを引き揃え、図1に示す装置で延伸仮撚加工し
た。
Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Spinning speed 1300 m
Melt elongation at a cutting rate of 380% and birefringence of 0.
013 polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn (85d
e / 24fil) and unspun polyethylene terephthalate yarn (75de / 12fi) having a cutting elongation of 60% and a birefringence of 0.086, which is melt-spun at a spinning speed of 5000 m / min.
1) and were aligned, and drawn and false twisted by the apparatus shown in FIG.

【0043】まず、引き揃えた両未延伸糸1、2を、空
気交絡ノズル6に供給し、オーバーフィード率1.0
%、圧空圧4kg/cm2の条件で40ケ/mの交絡を
付与し、次いで、630m/分の表面速度でディスクが
回転している3軸式摩擦仮撚装置を用いて、延伸仮撚速
度350m/分、加工倍率1.25倍、張力K値(T2
/T1 )23/35=0.66で、延伸仮撚加工した。
First, the undrawn yarns 1 and 2 that have been aligned are supplied to the air entanglement nozzle 6, and the overfeed rate is 1.0.
%, And 40 kg / cm2 of entanglement under the conditions of 4 kg / cm2 of compressed air pressure, and then using a triaxial friction false twisting device in which the disk rotates at a surface speed of 630 m / min, draw false twist speed 350 m / min, processing magnification 1.25 times, tension K value (T 2
/ T 1 ) 23/35 = 0.66, and false false twisting was performed.

【0044】この際、第1ヒータ8の温度及びその出口
直後の糸温度を表1に示すように変更した。なお、この
ときの加熱時間は、0.17秒であった。
At this time, the temperature of the first heater 8 and the yarn temperature immediately after its exit were changed as shown in Table 1. The heating time at this time was 0.17 seconds.

【0045】その後、引き続いて、200℃の第2ヒー
タ11により、オーバーフィード率0%で熱処理し、ワ
インダー13で巻き取り、130de/36filの混
繊糸を得た。得られた混繊糸の外観、特性は、表1に示
す通りであった。
After that, subsequently, the second heater 11 at 200 ° C. was heat-treated at an overfeed rate of 0% and wound by a winder 13 to obtain a mixed fiber of 130 de / 36 fil. The appearance and characteristics of the obtained mixed fiber were as shown in Table 1.

【0046】得られた混繊糸に、800T/mの撚りを
施し、綾組織に製織した。得られた生機を、ロータリー
ワッシャーにて沸騰温度で20分間リラックス処理し
て、シボ立てを行い、その後、常法によりプリセットし
た。次いで、3.5%のNaOH水溶液で、沸騰温度で
の処理を行い、減量率が10%の布帛を得た。
The mixed yarn thus obtained was twisted at 800 T / m and woven into a twill structure. The obtained green machine was subjected to a relaxation treatment at a boiling temperature for 20 minutes by a rotary washer to make a grain, and then preset by an ordinary method. Then, the fabric was treated with a 3.5% NaOH aqueous solution at a boiling temperature to obtain a fabric having a weight loss rate of 10%.

【0047】このアルカリ減量処理布帛を、Diani
x Black HG―FS(商品名、三菱化成工業
製)15%owfで、130℃にて60分間染色した
後、NaOH1g/l及びハイドロサルファイト1g/
lを含む水溶液で、70℃にて20分間還元処理して、
黒染布を得た。
The cloth for alkali weight reduction treatment
x Black HG-FS (trade name, manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), dyed with 15% owf at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then NaOH 1 g / l and hydrosulfite 1 g /
reduction with an aqueous solution containing 1 at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes,
I got a black-dyed cloth.

【0048】得られた染色布帛の染色状態及び風合い
は、表1に示す通りであった。
The dyed state and texture of the obtained dyed fabric are shown in Table 1.

【0049】[0049]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0050】表1の結果からも明らかなように、ヒータ
出口直後の糸温度が70℃未満(ヒータ温度が90℃未
満)の場合(比較例1、2)は、毛羽、染色斑が生じ、
風合いも劣ったものとなり、ヒータ出口直後の糸温度が
100℃を越える(ヒータ温度が130℃を越える)場
合(比較例1、2)は、単糸断面が変形し、捲縮が付与
されて、フカツキ感のある風合いとなり、深色性が劣
り、毛羽、染色斑も発生する。
As is clear from the results of Table 1, when the yarn temperature immediately after the heater exit is less than 70 ° C. (heater temperature is less than 90 ° C.) (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), fluff and dyeing spots are generated,
When the yarn temperature immediately after the heater exit exceeds 100 ° C. (heater temperature exceeds 130 ° C.) (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), the single yarn cross-section is deformed and crimps are imparted. , It has a fluffy texture, inferior bathochromic property, and fluff and dyeing spots occur.

【0051】これに対し、ヒータ出口直後の糸温度が7
0〜100℃(ヒータ温度が90〜130℃)の本発明
の場合(実施例1〜3)は、毛羽、染色斑がなく、深色
性に優れており、しかも断面形状の変形がなく、実質的
に捲縮が付与されておらず、張り、腰のあるソフトな風
合いの布帛とすることができる。
On the other hand, the yarn temperature immediately after the heater exit is 7
In the case of the present invention of 0 to 100 ° C. (heater temperature of 90 to 130 ° C.) (Examples 1 to 3), there is no fluff or dyeing spots, excellent bathochromic properties, and there is no deformation of the cross-sectional shape. A crimp-free cloth having a soft texture with tension and elasticity can be obtained.

【0052】[0052]

【実施例4〜6及び比較例4〜6】ポリエステル未延伸
糸の切断伸度、複屈折率、加工倍率を表2に示すように
変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして、延伸仮撚加工
及び評価を行った。なお、ポリエステル未延伸糸の切断
伸度、複屈折率は、紡糸速度を変えることにより変更し
た。
Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 4 to 6 Stretching temporary drawing was performed in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the cutting elongation, birefringence and processing ratio of the polyester unstretched yarn were changed as shown in Table 2. Twisting and evaluation were performed. The cutting elongation and birefringence of the polyester unstretched yarn were changed by changing the spinning speed.

【0053】結果は、表2に示す通りであった。The results are shown in Table 2.

【0054】[0054]

【表2】 [Table 2]

【0055】表2の結果からも明らかなように、切断伸
度差が300%未満、複屈折率差が0.06未満の場合
(比較例4)は、ソフトな風合いが得られず、毛羽、染
色斑も発生するが、切断伸度差が300%以上、複屈折
率差が0.06以上の本発明の場合(実施例4)は、張
り、腰のあるソフトな風合いが得られ、毛羽、染色斑も
発生しない。
As is clear from the results shown in Table 2, when the difference in cutting elongation is less than 300% and the difference in birefringence is less than 0.06 (Comparative Example 4), a soft texture cannot be obtained and fluff is not obtained. In the case of the present invention (Example 4) in which the difference in cutting elongation is 300% or more and the difference in birefringence is 0.06 or more, although stains are generated, a soft texture with tension and elasticity is obtained. No fluff or stain is generated.

【0056】また、加工倍率が1.10未満の場合(比
較例5)は、加撚張力不足によるサージングが発生し易
く、毛羽、染色斑が生じ、布帛にした場合、張り、腰の
ない風合いの劣ったものとなる。一方、加工倍率が1.
40倍を越える場合(比較例6)は、加工中に、毛羽、
断糸が多発するばかりでなく、布帛にした場合、ソフト
な風合いが得られない。
When the processing magnification is less than 1.10 (Comparative Example 5), surging is apt to occur due to insufficient twisting tension, and fluff and dyeing spots are formed. Will be inferior. On the other hand, the processing magnification is 1.
When it exceeds 40 times (Comparative Example 6), fluff,
Not only do many yarn breaks occur, but when made into a fabric, a soft texture cannot be obtained.

【0057】これに対して、加工倍率が1.10〜1.
40の範囲内にある本発明の場合(実施例5、6)は、
毛羽、染色斑がなく、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの
布帛が得られる。
On the other hand, the processing magnification is 1.10 to 1.
In the case of the present invention within the range of 40 (Examples 5 and 6),
A fabric with no fluff or stain and having a soft texture with a firm and elastic texture can be obtained.

【0058】[0058]

【実施例7及び比較例7】第2ヒータ温度を表3に示す
ように変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして、延伸仮
撚加工及び評価を行った。
Example 7 and Comparative Example 7 Stretching false twisting and evaluation were performed in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the second heater temperature was changed as shown in Table 3.

【0059】結果は、表3に示す通りであった。The results are shown in Table 3.

【0060】[0060]

【表3】 [Table 3]

【0061】延伸仮撚加工後の第2ヒータによる熱処理
温度が150℃未満である場合(比較例7)は、沸水収
縮率が15%を越え、白っぽい染色斑を呈し、目的とす
る濃染性でソフトな風合いが得られ難いが、熱処理温度
が150℃を越える本発明の場合(実施例7)は、染色
斑もなく、濃染性でソフトな風合いが得られる。
When the heat treatment temperature by the second heater after the drawing false twisting process is less than 150 ° C. (Comparative Example 7), the boiling water shrinkage ratio exceeds 15%, and whitish dyeing unevenness is exhibited, which is the desired deep dyeing property. However, in the case of the present invention where the heat treatment temperature exceeds 150 ° C. (Example 7), there is no uneven dyeing and a deep dyeing and soft texture can be obtained.

【0062】[0062]

【発明の効果】本発明方法によれば、深色性に優れてい
ると共に、断面形状の変形がなく、実質的に捲縮が付与
されておらず、張り、腰のあるソフトな風合いの布帛と
することのできる濃染性特殊混繊糸を製造することがで
きる。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the method of the present invention, a cloth having excellent bathochromism, no cross-sectional shape deformation, substantially no crimping, and a soft texture with tension and elasticity. It is possible to produce a deep dyeing special mixed yarn which can be

【0063】本発明方法により製造した混繊糸を用いて
作成した布帛は、極濃色に染色することができ、張り、
腰があり、しかも滑らかで柔軟性があるという、従来の
ポリエステル繊維布帛とは全く異なる特異な風合いを有
しており、ブラックフォーマル、インナーウェアー、婦
人用パーティードレスなどの高級衣料分野に使用するの
に適している。
The fabric prepared by using the mixed yarn produced by the method of the present invention can be dyed in an extremely dark color and stretched,
It has a peculiar texture that is completely different from conventional polyester fiber fabrics, such as being flexible, smooth and flexible, and is suitable for use in high-end clothing fields such as black formal, innerwear, and women's party dresses. Suitable for

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】本発明方法を実施するための装置の一例を示す
概略正面図である。
FIG. 1 is a schematic front view showing an example of an apparatus for carrying out the method of the present invention.

【図2】従来の方法で製造した加工糸(a)と本発明方
法で製造した混繊糸(b)の捲縮状態の違いを示す拡大
模式図である。
FIG. 2 is an enlarged schematic diagram showing a difference in crimped state between a textured yarn (a) produced by a conventional method and a mixed fiber (b) produced by the method of the present invention.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1 切断伸度が低く、複屈折率が高いポリエステル未
延伸糸 2 切断伸度が高く、複屈折率が低いポリエステル未
延伸糸 3 合糸スネルガイド 4 張力調整装置 5 供給ローラ 5´ 供給ローラ 6 空気交絡ノズル 7 中間ローラ 7´ 中間ローラ 8 第1ヒータ 9 仮撚具 10 デリベリローラ 10´デリベリローラ 11 第2ヒータ 12 引取ローラ 12´引取ローラ 13 ワインダー 14 チーズ
1 Polyester undrawn yarn with low cutting elongation and high birefringence 2 Polyester undrawn yarn with high cutting elongation and low birefringence 3 Synthetic yarn snell guide 4 Tension adjusting device 5 Supply roller 5'Supply roller 6 Air Entangling nozzle 7 Intermediate roller 7'Intermediate roller 8 First heater 9 False twisting tool 10 Delivery roller 10 'Delivery roller 11 Second heater 12 Take-up roller 12' Take-up roller 13 Winder 14 Cheese

フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 D02G 3/04 Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code Office reference number FI Technical display area D02G 3/04

Claims (3)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 切断伸度差が300%以上、複屈折率差
が0.06以上である複数のポリエステル未延伸糸を引
き揃え、交絡処理を施した後、加工倍率1.10〜1.
40で、ヒータ出口直後の糸温度が70〜100℃とな
るように加熱して、延伸仮撚加工を施し、次いで、15
0℃以上で熱処理することを特徴とする濃染性特殊混繊
糸の製造方法。
1. A plurality of unstretched polyester yarns having a breaking elongation difference of 300% or more and a birefringence difference of 0.06 or more are aligned and subjected to an entanglement treatment, and then a processing magnification of 1.10 to 1.
At 40, heating is performed so that the yarn temperature immediately after the heater exit is 70 to 100 ° C., and a false false twisting process is performed.
A method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed fiber, which comprises heat-treating at 0 ° C or higher.
【請求項2】 延伸仮撚加工時の加熱を、ヒータ温度9
0〜130℃、加熱時間0.15〜0.23秒で行う請
求項1記載の濃染性特殊混繊糸の製造方法。
2. The heating at the time of drawing false twisting is performed with a heater temperature of 9.
The method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed fiber according to claim 1, which is carried out at 0 to 130 ° C for a heating time of 0.15 to 0.23 seconds.
【請求項3】 切断伸度が低く、複屈折率が高い方のポ
リエステル未延伸糸は、切断伸度が50〜100%、複
屈折率が0.07〜0.13である請求項1又は2記載
の濃染性特殊混繊糸の製造方法。
3. The polyester undrawn yarn having a lower breaking elongation and a higher birefringence has a breaking elongation of 50 to 100% and a birefringence of 0.07 to 0.13. 2. The method for producing a deep-dyeing special mixed yarn according to 2.
JP5265013A 1993-10-22 1993-10-22 Production method of special dyeing yarn with strong dyeability Expired - Fee Related JP2986665B2 (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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JP2986665B2 JP2986665B2 (en) 1999-12-06

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100546463B1 (en) * 1999-04-29 2006-01-25 주식회사 코오롱 Manufacturing method of uniform salt polyester blend yarn
CN115012089A (en) * 2022-06-06 2022-09-06 江苏嘉通能源有限公司 Preparation method of light and thin tensile deformation yarn for summer wear

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100546463B1 (en) * 1999-04-29 2006-01-25 주식회사 코오롱 Manufacturing method of uniform salt polyester blend yarn
CN115012089A (en) * 2022-06-06 2022-09-06 江苏嘉通能源有限公司 Preparation method of light and thin tensile deformation yarn for summer wear

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