JP2002115133A - High bulk composite-textured yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a high bulk composite-textured yarn capable of exhibiting a natural bulky feeling like a natural wool, soft feeling and slimy feeling, and a natural grain tone on making it a woven or knit fabric, and not damaging such characteristics by a dyeing process, etc., and excellent in weaving property and knitting property, and a method for producing the same. SOLUTION: This high bulk composite-textured yarn is provided by mixing fibers of (A) a polyester multifilament yarn having >=80% elongation, 5 to -5% dry heat shrinkage and thick and thin spots in its longitudinal direction, with (B) a polyester multifilament yarn having <50% elongation and crimping property. There is a dyeing property difference between the above polyester multifilament yarns (A) and (B).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a bulky composite textured yarn and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, to a polyester woven or knitted fabric having a natural wool-like swelling feeling, soft feeling, slimy feeling and natural heather tone. The present invention relates to a bulky composite textured yarn which can be produced and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Various kinds of bulky polyester composite yarns that have a heather appearance when dyed have been proposed, and are widely used for applications such as women's outerwear and men's slacks which require a warm appearance. For example, JP-A-2-996
No. 26 discloses that a yarn obtained by subjecting a highly oriented undrawn polyester multifilament yarn to a relaxation heat treatment and a highly oriented undrawn polyester multifilament yarn are aligned and simultaneously subjected to a draw friction false twisting process to perform both the yarns. To the crimp,
A multilayer crimped yarn manufactured by a method of performing a fluid entanglement treatment is disclosed.

[0003] However, although the multilayer crimped yarn obtained by the above method can realize bulkiness and slimy feeling by false twist crimping, the soft texture is impaired due to shrinkage of the crimp by heating during dyeing. There was a problem that there was. Also, in recent years, the level of consumer needs has been improved, and there is a demand for a polyester woven or knitted fabric having a swelling texture similar to wool not only in appearance but also in feel.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of such circumstances, the present invention provides a natural wool-like natural swelling, softness, slimy feeling and natural heather tone when woven or knitted. It is an object of the present invention to provide a bulky polyester composite processed yarn which can be produced and whose properties are not impaired by dyeing and the like, and are excellent in weaving and knitting properties, and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configuration. (1) a polyester multifilament (A) having an elongation of 80% or more, a dry heat shrinkage of 5 to -5%, and a thick and thin spot in the longitudinal direction, an elongation of less than 50%, and Polyester multifilament having crimpability (B)
Is a mixed textured yarn, wherein the polyester multifilament (A) and the polyester multifilament (B) have a difference in dyeability. (2) There are many fine loops on the surface of the composite yarn,
The number of loops having a height of 0.15 mm or more among those loops is 300 / m or more, and a height of 0.35 mm
The bulky composite textured yarn according to the above (1), wherein the number of the loops is less than 50 / m. (3) Polyester multifilament yarn having thick and thin spots in the length direction obtained by subjecting a polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ to relaxation heat treatment. (A ′) and birefringence is 20 ×
A polyester multi-filament (B ′) having crimpability obtained by subjecting a polyester highly oriented undrawn multi-filament yarn having a size of 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ to drawing false twisting under heating, and A method for producing a bulky composite textured yarn, comprising mixing and entanglement by turbulent flow treatment.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The bulky composite processed yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament (A) having thick and thin spots in a longitudinal direction (hereinafter, referred to as a polyester multifilament (A)).
This is a processed yarn in which a filament multifilament (B) (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a crimpable filament) and a polyester multifilament (B) having crimpability are mixed.

[0007] The large fine filament has a large fine spot in the longitudinal direction, which means that the filament has a thin portion, that is, a portion having a relatively small fiber diameter, and 1.1 times or more, preferably 1. It means that thick portions having a fiber diameter of 1 to 2.0 times exist alternately. The number of the large and small spots is preferably 10 / m or more per 1 m in length, and 10
0 to 1000 pieces / m are more preferable, and 200 to 500 pieces / m are particularly preferable.

[0008] The elongation of the filament is 80%.
Above, preferably 90 to 120%, dry heat shrinkage is 5 to-
5%, preferably 1 to -2%. In other words, since the elongation and dry heat shrinkage of the thick and thin spot filaments are in the above ranges, the heat shrinkage is low and sometimes the heat stretch property is exhibited. A wool-like swelling, soft and slimy feeling can be imparted. Furthermore, since the dry heat shrinkage of the filaments is 5% to -5%, even if the crimpable filaments are contracted by dyeing or the like, the filaments hardly shrink, or the texture is elongated by elongation. There is no hardening, and therefore, the above-mentioned properties are not impaired by dyeing or the like. When the elongation is less than 80%, the filament does not have a flexible structural change, so it is difficult to give a thick spot, and when the boiling water shrinkage is out of the above range, a natural uneven feel ( Natural feeling), swelling feeling and soft feeling cannot be imparted.

Next, as for the degree of crimpability of the crimpable filament, it is preferable that the C method elongation is 105% to 200% and the C method elastic modulus is 85% or more. , 90-99% is more preferred. This crimpability can be imparted by false twist. Further, the elongation of the crimpable filament needs to be less than 50%, and more preferably 25 to 40%. The filament having a low elongation of less than 50% and a crimpability can realize bulkiness and a slimy feeling, and has an effect of embossing the thick filament filament to be mixed on the surface. In addition, the natural and wool-like swelling and softness of the woven or knitted fabric can be effectively realized.

[0010] The mixing ratio of the thick filament filament (A) and the crimpable filament (B) in the composite textured yarn of the present invention is 20/20 as the mass ratio (A) / (B).
80/80/20, preferably 40 / 60-7
0/30 is more preferred. Mass ratio (A) / (B) is 80
If the ratio exceeds / 20, the ratio of (A) which is relatively high in elongation and high in elongation is increased, and as a result, the whole composite processed yarn becomes easy to elongate, which tends to adversely affect the weaving and knitting properties, which is not preferable. . On the other hand, if (A) / (B) is less than 20/80, the natural feeling of a woven or knitted fabric tends to be impaired, which is not preferable.

[0011] Further, there is a difference in dyeing properties between the large and fine spot filaments and the crimpable filaments. That is, in the ordinary dyeing process, the high elongation thick and thin filament filaments become darker, and the lower elongation crimping filaments become lighter color. Can embody the natural heather appearance. The degree of staining gender differences between FutoshiHoso plaques filaments and crimped filaments, each difference between the L value when a single 100% Tsukai fabric stained with stain formulation to be described later in the same bath (L _B -L _A ) Is 1.5
It is preferable that it is above.

Further, the bulky composite textured yarn of the present invention has many fine loops on the surface of the composite textured yarn, and the number of loops having a height of 0.15 mm or more among these loops is 3
The number of loops having a height of not less than 00 / m and a height of not less than 0.35 mm is preferably less than 50 / m, and the number of loops having a height of not less than 0.60 mm is preferably 20 / m.
More preferably, it is less than. By having the loops in the above range, for example, it can be used for warp without twist in fabric production, and is excellent in process passability, and because there are a lot of fine loops, the woven and knitted fabric has a soft texture and a warm surface A feeling can be given. Height 0.15
When the number of loops of mm or more is less than 300 / m,
Soft texture and warm surface cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, and the number of loops having a height of 0.35 mm or more is 50
When the number of pieces / m or more is exceeded, the number of loops protruding from the surface of the processed yarn is large, so that there is a problem in process passability such as poor unwinding from cheese and poor opening during weaving. The number of loops in the present invention is determined by using a fluff measuring device F-Index (manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.) and counting the number of loops set to the height of a loop for measuring a gauge, and a yarn length having a height equal to or greater than a set value. This is the number of loops per meter.

The polyester used in the present invention includes:
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and copolymerized polyester mainly composed of PET are preferred. Further, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent for imparting functionality, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, and the like may be added. Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape is not limited to a normal round cross-section, but may be polygonal, hollow,
Flat or other special cross-sectional shapes are applicable, and filaments having different cross-sectional shapes may be mixed. In any case, an optimal material may be used in consideration of the physical properties of the woven or knitted material, the difference in dyeing properties between the two filaments, and the like.

Next, a method for producing a composite bulked yarn of the present invention.
Will be described. First, the birefringence is 20 × 10^-3~ 8
0x10^-3Polyester highly oriented unstretched multifilament
Lament yarn (hereinafter referred to as ester POY)
Polyester multifilament
A lament yarn (A ') is obtained. That is, the ester POY
By subjecting the ester POY to a relaxation heat treatment
Develops internal strain and gives filaments a thick and thin spot
You. This thick spot is not caused by stretching
The so-called neck phenomenon does not occur,
It will have a change. Este for relaxation heat treatment
The birefringence of Le POY is 20 × 10^-3~ 80 × 10 ^-3In
And the birefringence is 20 × 10^-3Less than
Changes in physical properties over time, resulting in quality variations.
This is not preferred. Further, the birefringence is 80 × 10^-3To
If it exceeds, it will approach stable physical properties like drawn yarn,
Thick and thin spots due to contraction spots cannot be expressed.

The overfeed rate at the time of the relaxation heat treatment is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5 to 30% so that the internal strain of the ester POY can be effectively developed, and the filament has a thick spot. Can be provided. The set temperature of the heater during the relaxation heat treatment is
It is preferable to adopt a range that does not cause fusion between the single filaments. Further, the relaxation heat treatment is preferably performed in a non-contact state with the heater. By performing the heat treatment in a non-contact state, the relaxation heat treatment can be performed at a temperature higher than the melting point and at a high speed without fusing the filament.

Next, the polyester POY having a birefringence in the same range as that of the supply yarn for the polyester multifilament yarn (A ') is subjected to draw false twisting under heating to obtain a polyester multifilament having crimpability. (B ')
Get. It is preferable that the false twisting at the time of the above-described stretch false twisting is performed by a friction false twisting method. By adopting the friction false twisting method, high-speed processing can be performed, and the false twisting can be easily performed from the viewpoint of the processing operation. It can be carried out. In the above stretching false twist processing,
K value (T, which is the ratio of twisting tension (T1) to untwisting tension (T2)
2 / T1) is preferably from 0.5 to 0.9, and when the K value is less than 0.5, a constriction phenomenon occurs in the processed yarn, and the yarn appearance tends to be deteriorated. On the other hand, when the K value exceeds 0.9, a long untwisted portion or a fluff is likely to occur in the processed yarn. Also,
The draw ratio at the time of drawing false twisting is 1.4 times or more, the temperature of the false twist heater is 200 ° C. or more, and fusion is not caused. The degree of crimp to be applied is adjusted by, for example, the number of disks of a friction false twist device. do it.

In the present invention, the polyester multifilament yarn (A ') and the polyester multifilament (B') obtained as described above are supplied to the same fluid agitating nozzle and subjected to fluid turbulence treatment to mix and entangle. To obtain the desired composite bulky textured yarn. By performing the fluid turbulence treatment, the polyester multifilament yarn (A '),
If the filaments constituting (B ') are mixed and entangled and dyed, a heather expression is possible. In this case, since the polyester multifilament yarn (B ') has a crimp, it has a high spreadability, and the entanglement is further improved, so that the entire yarn is bundled. Can be improved. In the above-mentioned fluid turbulent flow treatment, 300 loops / m or more and 0.15 mm or more in height and less than 50 loops / m in height of 0.35 mm or more, and particularly, 2 loops of .6mm or more
It is preferable to form at less than 0 / m.

If loops in the above range are formed by the fluid turbulent flow treatment, minute loops will be formed on the surface of the processed yarn. Such loops can be formed mainly by the ester which is subjected to relaxation heat treatment. It is presumed to be due to the properties of POY. In other words, thick and thin spots are formed in the ester POY by shrinkage due to the relaxation heat treatment. Therefore, a small loop is formed in the fluid turbulence processing. It is presumed that L / D (where L is the thickness of the discharge hole and D is the diameter of the discharge hole) of the spinning nozzle is involved in the formation of the above-mentioned shrinkage spots, and is used as the supply yarn of the present invention. In order to obtain the ester POY, spinning is preferably performed with a spinning nozzle having an L / D in the range of 1 to 3. The overfeed rate of the yarn during the fluid turbulent flow treatment is not particularly limited, but the overfeed rate of the polyester multifilament yarn (A ′) is the same as that of the polyester multifilament yarn (B ′). Or, when the size is reduced, the slimy feeling is increased, and this is preferable in enhancing the worsted texture. As a fluid turbulent nozzle,
Any material such as a Taslan nozzle or an interlace nozzle may be used as long as it can form a confound or a loop on the yarn.

Next, a method for producing a bulky composite textured yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of the method for producing a bulky composite textured yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the birefringence is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 1.
0 ^-3 ester POY (Y1), the first supply roller 1 and the relaxation heat treatment by the first take-off roller 3 and the heater 2 is subjected, polyester multifilament yarns neck without thick fine unevenness is formed by the contraction plaques ( A ')
The fluid is guided to the turbulent nozzle 8.

On the other hand, the birefringence is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 1.
0 ^-3 ester POY (Y2) is between the second feed roller 4 and the second take-up roller 7, a polyester multifilament having a crimp is decorated with a draw texturing process by the heater 5 and the friction false twist device 6 After forming the yarn (B ′), it is guided to the fluid turbulence nozzle 8. Next, the polyester multifilament yarns (A ′) and (B ′) are mixed by the fluid turbulence nozzle 8 to become the desired bulky composite processed yarn, pass through the third take-up roller 9, and are packaged by the take-up roller 10. It is taken up by 11.

In the present invention, the difference in L value indicating the degree of difference in dyeability between the polyester multifilament yarns (A) and (B) constituting the bulky composite textured yarn is measured as follows. First, single-processed polyester multifilament yarns (A) and (B) are wound into a package with a low tension of 5 g or less. Next, each is knitted into a tubular knitted fabric that is used 100% independently, and dyed in the same bath using the following dyeing prescription. (Dyeing prescription) Refining Refining agent: Sunmole FL (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 3 g / l Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes Dyeing dye: Dyanix Black HG-FS 15% owf (Mitsubishi Kasei Hoechst) Agent: Nikka San Salt SN-130 0.5g / L (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.): Acetic acid 0.2cc / L Temperature x time: 135 ° C x 30 minutes Bath ratio: 1:50 Washing Reducing detergent: Bisnol P- 705 g / liter (manufactured by Yasuo Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) Temperature × time: 80 ° C. × 20 minutes The reflectance of the knitted tubular fabrics dyed with the above dyeing prescription is measured separately using a Macbeth MS-3100 spectrophotometer. Measure and determine each L value. The L value is a value obtained by calculating the density index from the color difference formula of CIE lab, and the smaller the value, the deeper the color. Then, the difference between the L values is calculated from the following equation. L value but the difference = L _B -L _A of the L _A polyester multifilament yarn (A), L _B is the L value of the polyester multifilament yarn (A). The dry heat shrinkage is 30 at 180 ° C.
The sample heat-treated for one minute is measured according to JIS L 1090.

[0022]

According to the bulky composite textured yarn of the present invention, the polyester multifilament (A) having thick and thin spots and the polyester multifilament (B) having crimpability are mixed, so that knitting, weaving and dyeing can be performed. In addition to imparting a mottled tactile sensation and a natural sensation to the resulting fabric, a natural wool-like swelling sensation, softness and slimyness, and a natural heather appearance can be imparted. In addition, if the loops in the above-described range are formed, the yarn has a yarn form in which there are almost no protruding large loops, and can be used in a warp of a woven fabric without twisting. , A soft texture and a warm surface feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.

[0023]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. Example 1 An ester POY (89 dtex / 24 filaments, birefringence 55 × 10 ⁻³ ) obtained by melt-spinning PET (using a spinning nozzle with L / D = 2) was used under the conditions shown in Table 1 below. By performing the relaxation heat treatment, a polyester multifilament yarn (A ′ ₁ ) having thick and thin spots in the longitudinal direction was obtained. On the other hand, the polyester POY (178 decitex / 24 filaments, birefringence 65 × 10 ⁻³ ) obtained by melt-spinning PET (using a spinning nozzle with L / D = 2) was temporarily drawn under the conditions shown in Table 1 below. By performing the twisting process, a polyester multifilament yarn (B ′) having crimpability is obtained.
₁ ) Next, A ′ ₁ and B ′ ₁ were supplied into the same interlace nozzle and subjected to a fluid turbulent flow treatment under the conditions shown in Table 1 below to obtain a bulky composite processed yarn of the present invention.

Example 2 Ethylene terephthalate was used as a main repeating unit, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was used as an acid component in an amount of 1.5%.
Mol% copolymerized polyester and PET,
The mixture mixed at a mass ratio of 1: 1 was melt-spun (L / D = 2
POY (1) obtained by using a spinning nozzle of
22 dtex / 36 filament, birefringence 40 × 1
0 ^-3), by performing a relaxation heat treatment under the conditions shown in Table 1, and polyester multifilament yarns having a FutoshiHoso plaques in the longitudinal direction (A _'2). Then, the above A '
₂ and the same yarn as B ′ ₁ obtained in Example 1 were fed into the same interlace nozzle, and subjected to fluid turbulent flow treatment under the conditions shown in Table 1 below. Yarn was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 An ester POY (89 dtex / 24 filaments, birefringence 55 × 10 ⁻³ ) obtained by melt-spinning PET (using a spinning nozzle with L / D = 2) was used as shown in Table 1 below. Polyester multifilament yarn (A ' ₃ ) having no thick and thin spots in the longitudinal direction by applying a drawing heat treatment under the conditions shown
And Next, the above-mentioned A ′ ₃ and the same yarn as B ′ ₁ obtained in Example 1 were supplied into the same interlace nozzle, and a fluid turbulence treatment was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 below. Bulky composite yarn for use.

[0026]

[Table 1]

Table 2 below shows the properties of the obtained bulky composite textured yarn.

[0028]

[Table 2]

Next, a plain woven fabric is woven using each of the bulky composite processed yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1, followed by dyeing, scouring and finishing using a disperse dye. Was performed by a conventional method. At this time, Example 1,
When the bulky composite processed yarn No. 2 was used, the unwinding property and the weaving property of the yarn were good. In contrast, when the processed yarn of Comparative Example 1 was used, as shown in Table 2 above, many loops having a height of 0.35 mm or more were present on the surface of the processed yarn. Frequent stoppage of the machine during weaving.

The woven fabric obtained from the bulky composite textured yarn of Example 1 as described above is a novel woven fabric having both natural wool-like slimy feeling and swelling feeling, soft texture and relatively fine natural heather appearance. Met. The woven fabric obtained from the bulky composite processed yarn of Example 2 was a novel woven fabric having natural wool-like slimy feeling and swelling feeling, a soft texture and a relatively rough natural heather appearance. On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained from the bulky composite processed yarn of Comparative Example 1 was a woven fabric lacking in softness of texture, monotonous appearance of the heather and lacking in naturalness. The properties of the woven fabric obtained above are shown in Table 3 below.

[0031]

[Table 3]

[0032]

According to the present invention, it is possible to realize a natural wool-like natural swelling feeling, soft feeling, slimy feeling and natural heather tone when formed into a woven or knitted fabric, and the characteristics thereof are dyed. The present invention provides a bulky composite processed yarn excellent in weaving and knitting properties, which is not impaired by such factors, and a method for producing the same.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process chart showing one embodiment of a method for producing a bulky composite textured yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

Y1 Polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn Y2 Polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn 1 First supply roller 2, 5 Heater 3 First take-off roller 4 Second supply roller 6 Friction temporary twisting device 7 Second take-off roller 8 Fluid Turbulent nozzle 9 Third take-up roller 10 Take-up roller 11 Package

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA26 MA33 MA40 PA05 PA10 PA33 PA42 PA46 RA05 UA02 UA16

Claims (3)

[Claims] An elongation of 80% or more and a dry heat shrinkage of 5 to-
A composite in which a polyester multifilament (A) having a thickness of 5% and having large and thin spots in the longitudinal direction and a polyester multifilament (B) having an elongation of less than 50% and a crimpability are mixed. A bulky composite textured yarn characterized in that there is a difference in dyeability between the polyester multifilament (A) and the polyester multifilament (B). 2. A large number of fine loops are present on the surface of the composite processed yarn, and the number of loops having a height of 0.15 mm or more is 300 / m or more, and the height is 0.35 mm. The bulky composite textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of the loops is less than 50 / m. 3. A polyester multi-layer having thick and thin spots in the length direction obtained by subjecting a polyester highly oriented undrawn multi-filament yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ to a relaxation heat treatment. A crimpability obtained by subjecting the filament yarn (A ′) and a polyester highly oriented undrawn multifilament yarn having a birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ to a draw false twisting process under heating. And a polyester multifilament (B ′) having the following properties: mixed and entangled by fluid turbulence treatment.